LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 






UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. ^ 



V 



MISS CORSON'S 

PRACTICAL 

AMERICAN COOKERY 

AND 

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 



AN EVERY-DAV BOOK FOR AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPERS, GIVING THE 
MOST ACCEPTABLE ETIQUETTE OF AMERICAN HOSPITALITY, 
AND COMPREHENSIVE AND MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR 
MARKETING, CARVING, AND GENERAL TABLE- 
SERVICE; TOGETHER WITH SUGGESTIONS 
FOR THE DIET OF CHILDREN 

, r 

! C AND THE SICK. , 



an''' 



MISS JULIET CORSON, 

AUTHOR OF ' THE COOKING-SCHOOL TEXT-BOOK AND HOUSEKEEPER'S GUIDE," 
" THE COOKING MANUAL," " MEALS FOR THE MILLION," " FIFTEEN 
AND TWENTY-FIVE CENT DINNERS," "DIET FOR INVALIDS 
AND CHILDREN," " THE WORKINGMaN'S DIETARY," 
" LOCAL AMERICAN COOKERY," " THE BAL- 
TIMORE COOKING RECIPES," ETC. 







NEW YORK: ^ 

DODD, MEAD, AND COMPANY. 
1886. 



4"^^' 



4 






Copyright, 1885, 
By JULIET CORSON. 



All rights reserved. 



PREFACE. 



IN submitting this book to the pubHc, the author carries 
out a long-cherished purpose, which had its inception in a 
suggestion made to her by the Hon. John Eaton, United-States 
Commissioner of Education, during a discussion concerning the 
cookery of America. The fact that the cookery of Europe, and 
especially of France, enters so largely into the author's scheme 
of teaching, and of constructing her books already pubHshed, 
was being commented upon ; and in response to her statement 
that this was occasioned by tlie demands of the public, and not 
from any lack of variety or excellence in American cookery, the 
commissioner suggested the preparation of a work sufficiently 
broad in scope and minute in detail to verify her assertion that 
genuine American cookery is both wholesome and palatable, and 
has lost none of the traditional excellence which characterized 
it in our grandmothers' days. 

To facilitate the work, the commissioner caused the publication 
and extended circulation of the following correspondence : — 

To the Hon. John Eaton, U.S. Cotmrtissioner of Education, 

Bureau of Education, Dept. of the Interior, Washington, D.C. 

Dear Sir, — I venture to ask your help in an educational matter of 
general public interest, and trust you will afford me such assistance as lies 
in your power. 

I have been, as you are aware, engaged for the past four years in the train- 
ing of young women and girls in domestic economy, numbering among my 
pupils many ladies of our most prominent families. The results of this in- 
struction have so successfully covered the local field of cookery in the North- 



VI PREFACE. 

eastern States, that I am in receipt of many communications urging me to 
adapt some of my special methods to the Southern and Western portions of 
the country. In consequence of marked social changes attendant on the civil 
war, a radical alteration is taking place in this department. In doing this 
work, I desire to combine rudimentary economical principles with the culinary 
excellence of local dishes. In order to proceed intelligently, I must depend 
largely on the kindness of persons best informed in regard to the specialties 
of the local market supply, and of such dishes as hold popular favor. 

In connection witli this subject I venture to apply to you. Will you please 
aid me in communicating with these persons, in order, (i) that I may consult 
them in regard to the desirableness of establishing cooking-schools, and (2) 
that I may ask them for information concerning the following points : — 

1. Definite lists of the principal foods in local use, and their average market 
prices. 

2. ,A.ccurate recipes for the preparation of such materials in popular dishes. 

3. Recipes for favorite local dishes, and their names. 

4. General information bearing on the subject. 

I shall consider such information of the greatest value to me in the prep- 
aration of the work I propose to issue, not for the use of families onl)', but 
also for the guidance of instructors in cooking in different parts of the 
country. 

With assurances of high esteem, I am 

Respectfully yours, 

JULIET CORSON, 
Superintendent New-York School of Cookery. 

Office of the New-York School of Cookery, 
Union Square, New York, Aug 1878. 

Upon the receipt of Miss Corson's letter, Gen. Eaton caused 
the following circular letter to be issued from the Bureau of 
Education, and generally circulated throughout the country; 
addressing it to the heads of educational institutions, and to all 
persons of local prominence who seemed likely to be able to 
supply the information called for by Miss Corson : — 

Sir, — I beg to call your atcention to the enclosed copy of a letter received 
from Miss Juliet Corson, the superintendent of the New-York .School of 
Cookery. I hope you may be able to make some valuable suggestions for her 
on one or more topics of special importance to her work. 

Miss Corson's ability, culture, wisdom in forming and executing her plans, 
her eminent qualifications in the theory and practice of cooking, and her suc- 
cess in organizing and conducting the school in New-York City and in pre- 
paring manuals ui)on the subject of cooking, give the best possible assurance 



PREFACE. VI 1 

tliat whatever information you can afford her upon points of her inquiry will 
be advantageously used. 

Any suggestions you may make for her use can be sent to this office in the 
enclosed envelope, and will be forwarded to her. 

Very respectfully yours, 

JOHN EATON, Commissioner, 
Per C. W. 
Department of the Interior, Bureau of Education, 
Washington, D.C, Aug. 31, 1878. 

The material which came in response to this correspondence 
was abundant. The author has augmented it in the spring and 
fall lecture and lesson tours she has taken to many parts of 
the country during the intervening years ; she has also availed 
herself of recipes communicated to her by personal friends, and 
drawn from local and private collections. Like every person 
absorbed in the advancement of a special line of work, she has 
appropriated every hint offered her : the only personal credit to 
which she is entitled is for the scrupulous fidelity with which 
she has tested the methods given, and verified every statement 
which she makes. If the directions seem verbose, the fact 
must be remembered that the greater number of cookery-books 
fail to meet the demands of housewives, because they are indefi- 
nite ; and they are especially trying to those who have yet to 
gain the judgment and experience which too many writers on 
domestic subjects seem to take for granted. The author aims, 
above all, to be clear and precise ; to give such simple methods 
that a person of the most ordinary intelligence can follow them. 
She guarantees that the promised results will always be attained 
if the directions are closely adhered to ; the only latitude allowed 
is in the matter of seasoning, which is left more or less to the 
judgment of the cook, who must be guided by the taste of those 
for whom she caters. And in regard to the use of wine, in this 
last question, the author suggests that where the use of wine is 
not desirable, some dish should be chosen into the composition 
of which it does not enter; because, unless it is so definitely 
stated in the recipe, there is no flavoring or seasoning which 
can replace it without altering the character of the dish. There 
are many delicious dishes which require no wine, — so many, 
indeed, that the author has repeatedly offered to supply to any 



vm PREFACE. 

temperance society which would publish it, a good Temperance 
Cookery-Book, the use of which would do much to advance the 
cause whose advocates urge her to espouse it, forgetting that, 
as a teacher of cookery, she is not at liberty to accept or reject 
any available edible substance because of personal preference 
or disapproval. Of the engravings, some are original ; the rest 
are copied from the works of the best European writers on 
cookery. 

In conclusion, the author begs a cordial reception for this 
book in the name of the Forest City Housewife and her sister 
host of culinary experts whose best knowledge and perfected 
experience it embodies. 

New York, 1886. 



CONTENTS. 



PART I. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 



The Kitchen i 

The Pantry 5 

The Refrigerator 7 



PAGE 

The Cellar 9 

The Care of Milk and But- 
ter II 



CHAPTER n. 

MARKETING. 



The Preparation of Meat for 

Market 17 

Good Points in Meats 20 

Beef 22 

Veal 25 

Lamb 28 

Mutton 30 

Pork , 32 



Poultry 34 

Game-Birds 36 

Game 36 

Fish 37 

Vegetables and Fruit 38 

Dairy Products and Groce- 
ries .f 39 



CHAPTER HI. 

METHODS OF COOKING. 



Roasting 40 

Baking 42 

Broiling 44 

Frying 45 

Boiling 46 

Steaming 47 



Braising 47 

Blanching 48 

Glazing and Gilding 48 

Larding and Daubing 48 

Barding 49 

Boning , , 49 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IV. 



CARVING. 



TAOE 

M^hole Fish 52 

Head and Shoulders of Fish. 53 

Fish Larded and Batced ... 54 

Half Large Boiled Fish .... 54 

Whole Turbot Garnished. . . 55 

Poultry ..... 56 

Larded Fowl 57 

To Carve Roast Turkey. ... 58 

Turkey Partly Boned 59 

How to Carve Ducks 59 

How to Carve Roast Goose. 60 

Game-Birds 61 

Meats 62 

Mutton Boned and Stuffed. 62 



PAGE 

Saddle of Mutton Larded.. . 63 

Round of Beef 64 

Sirloin of Beef 64 

Ribs or Sirloin of Beef 

Boned 65 

Beef-Tongues Garnished. . . 66 

Roast Ham 67 

Cold Ham with Aspic Jelly. 67 

Hand or Leg of Young Pork. 68 

.Saddle of Venison 68 

Larded Saddle of Venison. . 69 

Larded Shoulder of Venison. 70 

Barded Hare 70 

Larded Hare 71 



CHAPTER V. 



THE DINING-ROOM .\.ND ITS FITTINGS. 



A Very Simple Dining- 

Room 74 

Decorative Art the Reflex of 

Nature 76 

Sideboards and Tables 77 

Decorations of China and 

Plate 79 

Chairs for the Dining-Room. 81 

Windows and Draperies ... 81 

Light in the Dining-Room.. 82 

Dining-Room Floors 83 



Sawdust Scrubbing 84 

Dry Scrubbing with Sand. . 84 
How to Prepare Floors for 

Oiling and Staining 85 

Oiling Hard-Wood Floors.. 85 

Polishing Hard-Wood Floors 86 

Staining Wooden Floors ... 86 

Sizing Stained Floors 87 

Varnishing Stained Floors. . 87 

Black Varnish for Wood ... 87 

Painted Floors 88 



CHAPTER VL 

THE DINNER-TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENT.S. 

Tablecloths go I Silver and Cutlery. . . 

Table-Napkins 92 , Ctiina and Glass 

Washing Table-Linen 94] 



95 
99 



CHAPTER Vn. 

LAVING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, A^m WINES. 



Flowers at Table no 

Menus, or Rills of Fare . . . . 112 

The Service of Dishes 116 

The Ensrlish Dinner-Service. rig 
The Service of Dinner a la 

Russe 121 

The Dinner - Service as 

Shown on Menu Cards. . . 122 



Menu 123 

English Bill of Fare for Din- 
ner a la Russe 124 

The American Dinner. . . . 125 
Bill of Fare for American 

Dinner 128 

Bill of Fare 129 

Dinner Wines 130 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE ETIQUETTE OF VARIOUS ENTERTAINMENTS. 



Large Breakfasts 142 

Bill of Fare 144 

The Family Breakfast 144 

Family Luncheon 146 

Luncheon Parties 147 

Bill of Fare 148 

Afternoon Receptions 149 

Afternoon Teas 150 

Family Teas 152 

Gentlemen's Suppers 152 

Supper Parties. ... , 153 



Evenino; Parties 154 

Cinderella Parties 154 

Card Parties 155 

Calling During Entertain- 
ments 155 

New Year's Receptions .... 155 
Wedding Receptions and 

Breakfasts 156 

Countrj'-House Parties 158 

Garden and Lawn Parties. . 160 



PART II. 



CHAPTER I. 



SMALL SHELL-FISH. 

Shell-Fish on the Half-Shell 

{Hiittrcs) 163 

Oysters on the Half Shell. . 163 

Oysters in a Block of Ice. . . 164 



Oysters in Ice 165 

Cold Canned Oysters. 166 

Little-Neck Clams on the 

Half-Shell 166 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER II. 

SOUPS {Potage). 



Soup Stock i68 

Clear Soup or Consomme. . 170 

The Clarifying of Fat 171 

Caramel 171 

Bouillon 171 

Clear Soup %vith Royale 

Paste. 172 

Spring Soup with Vegetables 172 

Case of V^egetable Cutters. . 173 

Ox-Tail Soup 173 

Mock Turtle Soup 174 

Brown Turkey Soup 175 

Chicken Soup 176 

Puree Sieve 177 

Chicken and Rice Soup, or 

Potage a la Reine 177 

Cream of Asparagus 17S 

Onion Soup 178 

Celery Soup 179 

Cream of Fresh Mushrooms. 179 

Cream of Cauliflowers .... iSo 

Bain-Marie 181 

Tomato Cream Soup 181 

String- Bean Soup 182 

Green-Pea Soup 182 



PACE 

Okra Soup with Crabs 183 

Okra Soup with Beef 184 

Dried Okra Soup 184 

Ham and Pea Soup 185 

Dried Bean Soup 185 

Turtle Bean Soup 186 

Oyster Cream Soup 187 

Fried Crusts for Soup 187 

Oyster Soup with Eggs 188 

Soft Clam Soup with To- 
matoes 188 

Cream of Fluke ... i8g 

Crayfish Soup or Bisque. . . . i8g 

Bisque of Prawns 190 

Lobster Soup . 191 

Crab Soup 191 

Terrapin Clear Soup 192 

How to Kill Green Turtle. . 192 

How to Boil Green Turtle. . 194 

Green Turtle Soup-Stock. . . 194 

Green Turtle Thick Soup. . 196 

Egg-Balls for Soup 196 

Forcemeat-Balls for Soup.. 196 

Green Turtle Clear Soup. . . 197 



CHAPTER III. 

FISH AND SHELL-FISH {PoissOll). 



How to Thaw Frozen Fish. 199 

Large Fish Boiled in Slices. 199 
Boiled Turbot with Lobster 

Sauce 200 

Lobster Sauce 200 

Boiled Halibut 200 

Fried Halibut 201 

Fluke Boned and Baked.. . . 201 

Bluefish Baked Whole 202 

Slices of Fish Boiled 203 

Shrimp or Prawn Sauce. . . . 204 

White Sauce 204 

Boiled Pike with Caper 

Sauce , 204 

Caper Sauce 205 



Pike 205 

Pickerel 205 

Fried Blackfish 205 

Larded Fish 206 

Fried Cod and Haddock.. . . 206 

Tron9on of Fish. 206 

Boiled Bass 207 

Hot Mustard Sauce 207 

Bass 208 

Boiled Sheep's-Head 208 

Cream Sauce 208 

Rcdsnapper 209 

Whitefish 209 

Darne of Salmon 209 

Boiled Salmon 210 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Anchovy Sauce 210 

Salmon 210 

Fresh Mackerel Fried 210 

Spanish Mackerel Broiled.. 211 
Broiled Pompano, Cucum- 
ber Sauce 211 

Cucumber Sauce 212 

To Keep Shad Overnight.. . 212 

Broiled Shad 212 

Fried Shad 213 

Shad-Roe 213 

Eels 214 

Fried Smelts on Skewers. . . 214 

Broiled Smelts 215 

Fried Butterfish 215 

American White-Bait 216 

Old Style of Frying White- 
Bait 216 

Trout with Cream Gravy. . . 217 

Fried Trout 217 

Boiled Trout 217 

New England Fish-Chowder 217 

Clam-Chowder 218 

Salt-Fish Dinner 219 

Melted Butter 219 

Salt-Fish Hash 220 

Cod's Tongues with Egg 

Sauce 220 

Boiled Salt Mackerel with 

Butter 221 

Clarified Butter 221 

Dried Salmon 222 

Salted Shad 222 



PAGE 

Diamond-Back Terrapin . . . 222 

How to Boil Terrapin 223 

How to Dress Terrapin. . . . 224 
Brown Stew of Terrapin. .. 224 
Stewed Terrapin with Cream 225 

Green Turtle 225 

Green Turtle Fried 226 

To Prepare Frogs' Legs. . . . 226 

Boiled Lobster 227 

Scalloped Lobster 227 

Scalloped Lobster in Shells. 228 
Lobster Chops or Cutlets. . . 228 
Scalloped Prawns or Shrimp 229 

Soft-Shell Crabs Fried 229 

Soft-Shell Crabs Broiled. . . . 230 

Crabs Scalloped 230 

Devilled Crabs 231 

Kromeskeys of Crab 232 

Mussels 233 

Scallops Fried in Indian 

Meal 234 

Fried Soft Clams 234 

Scalloped Clams 234 

Clam Fritters 235 

Oyster Patties 235 

Fried Oysters 236 

Roast Oysters 237 

Stewed Oysters 238 

Pickled Oysters 238 

Vol-au-vent of Oysters 239 

Ragout of Oysters for Vol- 
au-vent 240 



CHAPTER IV. 

RELISHES {Hors-d'ccuvrcs). 



Timbales, Patties. Bou- 
chees, Rissoles and Cocks- 
combs 242 

Tongue Toast 243 

Ham Toast 243 

Caviare Toast 243 

Smoked Fish for Relishes. . 244 

Sandwich Butter 244 

Sandwiches 245 

Canapees 245 

Bouchees 245 



Rissoles 

Spiced Veal 

Veal Loaf 

Jellied Chicken 

Pickled Chicken 

Peanuts Roasted with Salt. 

Salted Almonds 

Walnuts and Wine 

Girard Boiled Chestnuts. . . 
The Girard Nut Sandwich. 
Welsh Rarebit 



245 
245 
246 
246 
247 
247 
247 
248 

249 
249 
249 



CONTENTS. 



PACE I 

Golden Ruck 250 

Yorkshire Rarebit 250 

Cheese Straws and Crusts. . 250 

Cheese Puft's 251 

Potted Cheese 252 

Easter EpS^s. 252 

Hard-Boiled Eggs . . , 253 

Turkey, Geese, and Uuck 

Eggs 253 

Steamed Eggs 253 

Broiled Eggs 253 

Shirred Eggs 254 

Poached Eggs with Ham.. . 254 

Frizzled Beef and Eggs .... 255 

Fried Eggs 255 

Scrambled Eggs 255 

Omelets 255 

Sardine Omelet 256 

Omelet with Mushrooms. . .. 256 

Rice Omelet 257 

Omelet with Jelly 257 



FAGR 

Pineapple Omelet 258 

Tomato Catsup 258 

Sealing- Wax for Pickle Jars 258 

Cucumber Catsup 258 

Oyster Catsup 259 

Chili .Sauce 259 

Chow-Chow 260 

Pickled Cabbage 260 

Pickled Tomatoes 260 

Ripe Tonato Pickles 261 

Sweet Pickle of Beets 261 

Pickled Onions 262 

Grated Cucumber Pickle.. .. 262 

Spiced Gherkins 263 

Pickled Martinoes . 264 

Pickled Peaches 264 

Peach Mangoes 265 

Damson Sauce for Meats. . . 265 

Cider Apple-Sauce 266 

Quince and Apple Butter. . . 266 

Pumpkin Sauce 266 



CHAPTER V. 

SIDE-DISHES OF -ME.VT, POULTRY AND GAME {Elttr/i's). 



Broiled Round of Beef 268 

Porterhouse Steak Broiled . 268 
Fried Beefsteak with Onion 

Sauce 268 

Brown Onion Sauce 269 

Beefsteak Smothered in 

Onions 269 

Cold Roast Beef Broiled. . . 270 

Cold Roast Beef Fried 270 

How to Clean Tripe 270 

Rolls of Tripe, Creole Style 272 
Beef-Kidney Broiled with 

Bacon 273 

Beef-Kidney .Stewed 273 

Fried Liver and Bacon with 

Spinach 273 

Calf's Liver Rolls 274 

Cutlets Cloute with Truffles. 275 
Cutlets with TrufHes, Gar- 
nished 276 

Veal Cutlet Breaded, with 

Tomatoes 277 

Veal Pot-Pie 277 



Fricandeau of Veal, Larded. 278 
Larded Fricandeaux, Gar- 
nished 280 

Sweetbread Croquettes 281 

Brain Croquettes 282 

Broiled Sweetbreads 282 

Fried .Sweetbreads 282 

Sweetbreads in the Chafing- 

Dish 283 

Ragout of Sweetbreads and 
Mushrooms for Vol-au- 

Vent 2S3 

How to Boil Calf's Head 

and Feet 283 

Calf's Head like Turtle 284 

Broiled Calf's Head 285 

Calf's Brains 286 

Fried Brains 286 

Calf's Tongue and Brains. . 286 
Lamb Cutlets with Finan- 

ciere Ragout 287 

Broiled Lamb Cutlets with 
Mint Sauce 287 



cox TEX 7- S. 



PAGE 

Lamb Cutlets in Paper 288 

Fruzled Mutton 289 

Broiled Mutton Chops 289 

Fried Mutton Chops 289 

Paper Frills for the Bones of 

Chops, etc 290 

Pork Chops and Apples. . . . 291 
Minced Fresh Pork. ....... 291 

Fried Sour Apples 292 

Jowl 292 

Fried Salt Pork and Apples. 292 
Corned - Beef Hash, New- 
England Style. ... 293 

Frizzled Beef 293 

Frizzled Ham 293 

Fried Ham 294 

Broiled Ham 294 

Game Pie 294 

Reed-Bird Pie 296 

Stewed Snipe 296 

Prairie Chickens Stewed 

Whole 297 

Boiled Partridge with Cream 

Sauce 297 

Stewed Squirrels 297 

Squirrel-Pie 298 



lAGE 

Fricassee of Rabbits 299 

Venison in Chafing-Dish. . . 299 

Forest City Sauce , 299 

Frizzled Venison 299 

Pastry for Meat and Game 

Pies 300 

Venison Pie 300 

Venison Pasty 301 

Broiled Spring Chicken with 

Cauliflower ■ 302 

Spring Chicken Fried in 

Cream 303 

Chicken Fried with Okra. . . 303 

Boiled Rice 304 

Chicken Fried with Salt Pork 304 

Fricassee of Chicken. 305 

Pullet with Toulouse Ragout 305 

Chicken Quenelles 305 

Chicken-Pie 306 

Chicken Croquettes 307 

Turkey-Hash 309 

Stewed or Potted Pigeons. . 309 

Squab-Pie 310 

Foie-Gras with Truffles .... 310 
Truffles 311 



CHAPTER VI. 

REMOVES OF MEAT AND POULTRY {Relcvh). 



Ribs of Beef Boned and 

Rolled 312 

Baked Beef 314 

Beef a la Mode, with Stuff- 
ing 314 

Beef a la Daube 315 

Larded Filet of Beef with 

Tomatoes 315 

Tenderloin of Beef with Spa- 
ghetti, Milanaise Style... 316 

Fresh Tongue, Boiled 316 

Robert Sauce 317 

Hind-Quarter of Veal 317 

Larded Cantons of Lamb. . . 318 

Boiled Mutton 319 

Baked Fresh Pork 319 

Baked Pork with Potatoes. . 321 
Baked Tenderloins 321 



Baked Sweet Potatoes 322 

Stuffed Apples 322 

Hand of Fresh Pork 322 

Broiled Pork with Chili 

Sauce 323 

Chili Sauce. 323 

How to Dress a Roasting- 

Pig • 323 

Baked Sucking-Pig 324 

Salting and Smoking Meat . 325 

Salting Meat for Smoking . 328 

How to Pickle Meat 329 

Smoking Meat 329 

Knickerbocker Dried Beef. . 329 

How to Cure Hams 330 

Ham Cooked in Cider 331 

Plain Boiled Ham 331 

Baked or Roast Ham 331 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

To Smoke a Mutton Ham. . 332 

Boiled Mutton Ham 332 

New-England Salt Fork. . . . 332 

How to Try Out Lard 333 

Boiled Pork and Parsneps.. 334 
Old New- York Style of Cur- 
ing Bacon .^ 334 

Boiled Bacon and Cabbage. 335 

Boar's Head 335 

A New-England Boiled Din- 
ner 337 

Corned Beef Brisket 338 

Mustard Sauce 338 



PAGE 

Reef's Heart, Corned 339 

Pickled Beef's Tongues. . . . 340 

Boiled Tongue 340 

Baked Tongue 340 

Boiled Turkey with Oyster 

Sauce 340 

Oyster Sauce 341. 

Boiled Turkey with Celery 

Sauce 341 

Boiled Chicken 341 

Cream Onion Sauce 342 

How to Preserve Baked and 

Roasted Meats 342 



CHAPTER VH. 

ROASTS (A'S/l's). 



Roast Beef 344 

Roast Lamb with Sorrel- 
Sauce 345 

Sorrel-Sauce 345 

Hind-Quarter of Lamb 346 

Roast Lamb 346 

Saddle of Lamb Roasted. . . 347 

Cucumber Sauce 347 

Saddle of Mutton 347 

Bear Meat 348 

Buffalo 34S 

Broiled Venison 348 

Fried Venison 349 

Baked Saddle of Venison. . . 349 

Roast Venison 349 

Larded Saddle of Venison. . 350 
Shoulder of Venison Larded. 350 
How to Skin I^abbits, Hares, 

and Squirrels 350 

Hare I^arded and Roasted. . 351 
Hare Larded and Baked ... 351 
Ortolans, or Snow-Buntings. 352 

Broiled Ortolans 352 

Fried Reed-Birds 353 

Broiled Reed-Birds 353 

Woodcock on Toast 353 

Fried Woodcock 354 

Snipe Fried in Oil 354 

Snipe Broiled Whole 355 

Roast Plover 355 

Quail Barded and Roasted . 356 



Roast Quail 356 

Baked Quail 357 

Broiled Canvas-Back Duck. 357 
Roast Canvas-Back Duck . . 358 
Canvas-Back Duck, Phila- 
delphia Style 358 

Broiled Canvas-Back Duck, 

Delmonico Style 358 

Roast Wild Duck 358 

Filets of Wild Duck, with 

Orange-Sauce 359 

Roast Widgeon 359 

Orange Essence Sauce 359 

Roast Teal 360 

Onion-Sauce 360 

Roast Prairie Chickens or 

Grouse 360 

Prairie Chickens Broiled .. . 361 

Broiled Partridge 3C1 

Roast Partridge 362 

Roast Ptarmigan 362 

Pheasants Garnished with 

Snipe 362 

Roast Guinea- Fowl 363 

Boned Squabs and Pigeons. 363 

Roast Turkey Poult 364 

I'loast Turkey 365 

Giblet Stuffing 365 

Salt-Pork Stuffing 365 

Suet Stuffing 365 

Potato Stuffing 366 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Roast Turkey Partly Boned. 366 

Oyster Force-Meat 367 

Roast Turkey with Truffles. 367 

Larded Turkey 368 

Implements for Larding and 

Trussing 369 

Spring Chicken, Broiled . . . 369 
Barded Chicken or Game . . 370 
Spring Chicken, Baked .... 370 
Roast Chicken with Chest- 
nuts 371 

Roast Goose and Gosling . . 371 

Green Apple Sauce 371 

Sorrel-Sauce 372 



PAGE 

Gooseberry-Sauce 372 

Green Sauce for Goslings or 

Geese 372 

Brown Gravy for Roast 

Goose or Gosling 373 

Giblet Gravy for Roast 

Goose or Gosling 373 

Ducklings, oi Spring Ducks. 374 
Roast Ducklings with Or- 
ange Sauce 374 

Duckling with Onions 374 

Duck with Orange Sauce. . . 375 
Orange Sauce 375 



CHAPTER VIH. 

SALADS AND VEGETABLES {Salades ct Entremets). 



Watercress Salad 378 

French Salad Dressing 378 

Sliced Cucumbers 379 

Cream Salad Dressing 379 

Pepper Salad. 379 

Onion and Tomato Salad. . . 379 

Vegetable Scoops 380 

Tomatoes with Mayonnaise. 380 

Cold Slaw 382 

Hot Slaw 382 

Cheese Salad 382 

Salads of Cooked Vegetables 382 

Potato Salad 383 

American Potato Salad .... 383 

Beet and Potato Salad 383 

Salad of French Beans .... 384 
Jerusalem Artichoke Salad. 384 

Fruit Salads 384 

Mayonnaise for Salad 385 

Salmon Salad 386 

Chicken Salad 386 

Sweetbread Salad 387 

Oyster Salad 387 

Shad-Roe Salad 387 

Shrimp Salad 387 

Hot Lobster Salad 3S8 

Lobster Salad 389 

New Potatoes 389 

Bermuda Potatoes 390 

Boiled Potatoes 390 



Baked Potatoes 391 

Mashed Potatoes 391 

Potato Straws 391 

Brown Hashed Potatoes... 392 

Fried Potatoes 392 

Saratoga Potatoes 392 

Julienne Potatoes 393 

Fluted Vegetable Knife .... 393 
Sweet Potatoes Fried with 

Pork 394 

Boiled Sweet Potatoes. . . . . 394 

Stuffed Sweet Potatoes 394 

Sweet Potato Pudding 395 

Jerusalem Artichokes 395 

Globe Artichokes 396 

Globe Artichokes, Boiled . . 397 
Dutch or Hollandaise Sauce. 398 

Green Pease, Boiled 398 

Sugar Pease 399 

Canned Pease 399 

String-Beans 399 

Canned String-Beans 400 

Stewed Butter- Beans 400 

Lima Beans 400 

Stewed Kidney-Beans 401 

Dried White Beans. ...... 401 

Green Corn Boiled 402 

How to Warm Cold Corn. . 402 

Green Corn Roasted 402 

Green Corn Stewed 403 



COXTE.VTS. 



PAGE 

Green Corn Pudding 403 

Green Corn Griddle-Cakes 

and Fritters 403 

Succotash 404 

How to Can Corn 404 

Dried Corn 405 

Canned Corn, Stewed 405 

Dried Corn Hulled with Lye. 405 
Dried Corn Hulled with Sal- 

eratus 406 

Stewed Hominy 406 

Succotash from Dried Samp 

and Beans 406 

Succotash of Dried Corn and 

Beans 407 

Oyster-Plant with Cream. . . 407 

Sea-Kale 40S 

Asparagus 408 

Asparagus with Dutch Sauce 409 

Sugar Beets Boiled 409 

New Turnips 410 

Carrots 410 

Mushrooms 411 

Fresh Mushrooms Broiled.. 415 
Fresh Mushrooms Baked. . . 415 
Mushroom Stems Stewed. . . 415 
To Dry Fresh Mushrooms. . 416 

Mushroom Powder 416 

Canned Mushrooms with 

Cream Sauce 416 

Morels 417 

Stuffed Morels 418 

Mushroom Brown Sauce... 418 
Fried Cucumbers on Toast.. 418 
Cucumbers Stuffed with Mar- 
row 419 

Egg-Plant Fried in Butter. . 419 
Egg-Plant Fried in Baiter. . 419 
Scalloped Egg-Plant 420 



r-AGE 

Baked Egg-Plant 421 

Boiled Cabbage 421 

Fried Cabbage 422 

Red Cabbage Stewed 422 

Sauerkraut 422 

Cauliflower 423 

.Spinach 424 

Boiled Turnip-Tops 424 

Boiled Celery 425 

Butter and Lemon Sauce. . . 425 
Celery with Remoulade 

Sauce 426 

German Remoulade Sauce. . 426 
Green Remoulade Sauce . . . 426 

Celery Fritters 427 

Fried Parsley 427 

Okra 427 

Green Peppers, Stuffed and 

Baked 42S 

Stuffed Tomatoes 428 

Fried Tomatoes with Brown 

Gravy 429 

Broiled Tomatoes 429 

Stewed Tomatoes 430 

Canned Tomatoes 430 

Parsneps with Cream 431 

Salt Pork and Parsneps. ... 431 

Broiled Parsneps 431 

Bermuda Onions Boiled. . . . 432 

Boiled Onions 432 

Spanish Onions Fried 432 

Scalloped Onions 432 

Boiled Leeks 433 

Boiled Squash 433 

Baked Yellow Squash 434 

Summer Squash 434 

Summer Squash Stewed. . . . 434 
Macaroni and Spaghetti. . . . 435 



CHAPTER LX. 

SECOND-COURSE SWEETS {EntremHs). 



St. Honor6 Cake 436 

St. Honore Custard 437 

To Gla9e Fruit 43S 

St. Honore Cake, to Shape.. 438 



Rum Buns 439 

Bath Buns 440 

Brioche 440 

Brioche Ring .... 442 



CON TEA' TS. 



PAGE 

Almond Macaroons 443 

Almond Biscuit 443 

Almond Cake 443 

Lady Cake 444 

Pineapple Cake 444 

Orange Cake 444 

Citron Pound Cake 444 

Plum Cake 445 

Sponge Cake 445 

Lady-Fingers . 447 

Charlotte Russe 447 

Whipped Cream . 44S 

Paper Cases for Small Char- 
lottes 449 

Cake Baked in Paper 449 

Plain Icing for Cakes 451 

Boiled Icing 451 

Tutti Frutti Icing 451 

Confectioner's Icing 451 

Fruit Icing 452 

Fruit-Cream Icing 452 

Corn-Starch Icing 452 

Almond Icing 452 

Paper Cones for Icing .... 452 

Omelette Souffle 454 

Almond Souffle 455 

Salamanders 457 

Boiled and Steamed Pud- 
dings 457 

Hot Cabinet-Pudding, Rum 

Sauce 458 

Forest-City Rum Sauce .... 458 
Christmas Plum-Pudding . . 459 

Brandy Sauce 460 

Boiled Batter-Pudding 460 

Fruit Sauce 461 

Brandy Hard Sauce 461 

Boiled Bread-Pudding 461 

Caramel Sauce 461 

Boiled Apple-Pudding 462 

Egg Pudding-Sauce 462 

Boiled Huckleberry - Pud- 
ding, with Eggs 462 

Berry Sauce 463 

Boiled Rice Dumplings .... 463 

Maple-Sugar Sauce 464 

Baked Puddings 464 

Baked Plum-Pudding 464 

Baked Indian-Pudding 465 



PAGE 

Lemon-Pudding 465 

Cocoanut - Pudding with 

Sponge-Cake 465 

Grape-Pudding 466 

Marlborough-Pudding 466 

Pies and Tarts 466 

Puff-Paste 467 

Pate d'Office 471 

Fruit Patties 472 

Cream Crust 472 

Lard Pie-Crust 474 

Good Plain Pastry 474 

Christmas Mmce-Meat 476 

Plain Mince-Meat 477 

Fruit Mince-Pies 478 

Apple and Pie-Plant Pie . . . 478 
Rhubarb-Pie, New-England 

Style. 479 

Cherry-Tart 479 

Raspberry-Pie 48 1 

Gooseberry-Tart 481 

Forest-City Lemon-Pie 481 

Sweet-Potato Pie, Philadel- 
phia Style 482 

Squash-Pie 482 

Pumpkin-Pie 483 

Peach Tarts .• 483 

Pineapple Tarts 484 

Baked Apple Dumplings... 484 

Pear Dumplings 4S5 

Fresh Apple Pan-Dowdy. . . 485 
Dried Apple Pan-Dowdy. . . 485 
Hot and Cold Breads, Frit- 
ters and Griddle-Cakes. . . 486 

Home-Made Bread 486 

Compressed-Yeast Bread .. . 487 

Breakfast Rolls 489 

Potato Rolls 490 

Parker-House Rolls 491 

Astor-House Rolls 491 

Baking-Powder Biscuit .... 492 

Buttermilk Biscuit 492 

Beaten Biscuit 492 

Raised Biscuit 493 

Gi-aham Gems and Biscuit. . 493 
Raised Graham Biscuit .... 494 

Huckleberry Biscuit 494 

Sour-Cream Biscuit 494 

Shortcakes 494 



CONTENTS. 



PACE 

Raised Shortcake 495 

Egg Corn-Bread 495 

New-England Corn-Bread. . 496 
New-England Brown-Bread. 496 
Graham and Indian Bread. . 496 

Raised Graham Bread 497 

Raised Sweet-Potato Bread. 497 

Sweet-Potato Pone 498 

Wheat Muffins 498 

Raised Muffins 498 

Rye Muffins 499 

Pop-Overs 499 

Egg- Puffs 500 

Raised Waffles 500 

Sweet-Potato Waffles 500 

Corn Waffles 500 

Rice Waffles 501 

Raised Rice Waffles 501 

Rice Pancakes 501 

Fried Rice 501 

Fried Bread 502 



PAGE 

Fritter Batter 502 

Orange Fritters 502 

Pineapple Fritters 503 

Old-Fashioned Doughnuts.. 503 
New-England Fried-Cakes . 504 
Whortleberry Fried-Cakes. . 504 

Crullers with Eggs 505 

Crullers with Baking-Pow- 

der 506 

Pan-Doddles 507 

Indian Slap-jacks 507 

Army Slap-jacks 508 

Buckwheat Cakes 508 

Raised Buckwheat Cakes. . . 508 

Indian Griddle-Cakes 508 

Spider-Cake 509 

Huckleberry Spider-Cake . . 509 

Spider-Cake Toast 510 

Butter Toast 510 

Milk Toast 510 

Water Toast 511 



CHAPTER X. 
DESSERT {Dessert). 



Cream Meringues 512 

Italian Cream 513 

Cannelons with Cream 514 

Bavarian Cream 514 

Calf s-Foot Jelly 515 

Madeira Jelly 516 

Noyeau Jelly 516 

Oranges with Jelly 517 

Chartreuse of Candied Or- 
anges 517 

Spinning Sugar 51S 

Degrees of boiling Sugar. . . 520 

The Thread 520 

The Pearl 520 

The Blow 520 

The Feather 521 

The Ball 521 

The Crack 521 

Caramel 521 

To Prevent Granulation in 

Boiling Sugar 521 

Nougat 522 



How to Reduce Boiling 

Sugar a Degree 522 

Freezing-Tub for Frozen 

Puddings 523 

Frozen Cabinet-Pudding. . . 523 
Confectioners' Nesselrode 

Pudding .... 524 

FrancateHi's Nesselrode 

Pudding 525 

Coffee Bombe 525 

Ice-Creams 526 

Plain Ice-Cream 527 

Frozen Custard 527 

Philadelphia Ice-Cream. . .. 527 

Vanilla Ice-Cream 528 

French Ice-Cream 528 

Coffee Ice-Cream 528 

Brown-Bread Ice-Cream... 528 

Fancy Ice-Creams and Ices. 529 

Neapolitan Ice-Cream 529 

Pistache Ice-Cream 529 

Tutti Fratti 529 



COArTEIVTS. 



PAGE 

Plum-Pudding Glac6 529 

Fruit Ice-Creams 530 

Fruit-Ices 530 

Water-ices 531 

Roman Punch 531 

Roman-Punch Glace 531 

Champagne-Ice 531 

Freezing-Tub for Small Ices 532 

Canned Fruit 532 

Preserves and Jellies 533 

Jelly-Bags 534 

Pineapple Jelly 536 

Sugared Pineapple 536 

Pineapple Preserves 537 

Crab-Apple Jelly 537 

Crab-Apple Jelly with Lem- 
on 537 

Crab-Apple Preserve 538 

Apple-Jelly 538 

Apple Marmalade 538 

New-England Apple-Jam . . 539 

Plum Marmalade 539 

Plum-Jam 540 

Plum-Jelly 540 

Brandied Green-Gage Plums 540 

Preserved Pears 541 

Pear Marmalade , . . . . 541 

Pear-Jam 542 

Sugared Quinces 542 

Quinces Preserved Whole. . 543 

Quince-Jelly 543 

Preserved Peaches 543 

Peach-Jelly 544 

Jellied Peaches 544 

Peach Marmalade 545 

Brandy Peaches 545 

Apricot Marmalade 546 

Apricot Preserves and Jelly 546 

Cherry Preserves 546 

Cherry Marmalade 546 

Brandied Cherries 547 

Raspberry Pi-eserves 547 

Mrs. Charles Thornton Ad- 
ams's Raspberry Jam.... 548 
Raspberry and Currant Jam 548 

Currant-Jam 549 

Currant-Jelly 549 



: Blackberry and Apple-Jam. 549 

Barberry-jam 549 

Barberry -Jelly 550 

; Barberry-Jam 550 

Preserved Mulberries 550 

Preserved Elderberries 551 

Elderberry and Grape Jelly 551 

Preserved Grapes. 552 

\ Grape Jelly 552 

I Gooseberries Preserved 

Whole 552 

' Jellied Gooseberries 553 

Red-Gooseberry Jam 553 

Green-Gooseberry Jam 554 

Jellied Cranberfies 554 

' Rhubarb-Jelly 555 

Rhubarb Marmalade 555 

Rhubarb-Jam 555 

Strawberry Preserves 556 

Wiesbaden Preserves 557 

Strawberry-Jam 557 

Florida Orange Marmalade. 55S 

Preserved Tomatoes 558 

Tomato-Jell}' 559 

Tomato-Jam 559 

' Tomato-Figs 559 

Preserved Citron Melon. . . . 560 

1 Watermelon Preserve 560 

Preserved Pumpkin 560 

; Preserved Grape-Fruit 561 

Tutti Frutti Preserve 561 

Baked Apples 562 

Stewed Gooseberries 562 

Fried Bananas 563 

1 Fried Peaches 563 

Peaches Stewed in Wine . . . 563 

Pineapples 564 

Iced Pineapple 565 

I Bananas and Oranges 565 

\ Ambrosia 565 

Iced Raspberries for Dessert 566 

Iced Strawberries 566 

Strawberries with Whipped 

Cream 566 

Peaches with Oranges 567 

Grape-Fruit for Breakfast. . 567 



COXy'ENTS. 



CHAPTER XI. 



BEVERAGES, 



AM) SUGGESTIONS FOR THE DIET OF INVALIDS AND 
CHILDREN. 



PAGE 

Filtering Water or Sirup . . . 570 

Coffee 570 

French Coffee 572 

Cafe Noir 572 

Gloria 572 

Tea 573 

Chocolate 573 

Cocoa 573 

Hot Coffee and Soda 574 

Pineapple Lemonade 574 

Currant- Water . .' 574 

Cherry-Water 575 

Cherry Sirup 575 

Blackberry Sirup 575 

Florida Orange Wine 575 

New-England Boiled Cider. 576 

Dixie Pineapple Cider 576 

West-Indian Pineapple Shrub 577 

Pineapple Rum Shrub 577 

Currant Shrub 577 

Pineapple Brandy 578 

Cherry Brandy 578 

Raspberry Brandy 578 

Raspberry Liqueur 579 

Blackberry Brandy 579 

Blackberry Cordial 579 

Peach Brandy 5S0 

Peach and Honey 580 

Cider-Cup 580 

Claret-Cup 581 

Champagne-Cup 581 

Roman Punch 581 

Punch a la Romaine 581 

Capillaire for Eau Sucr6. . . . 582 



Virginia Verder, or Bottled 

I Milk-Punch 582 

'Milk-Punch 582 

i White Tiger's-Milk 582 

I Hot Apple-Toddy 583 

] Egg-Nog 583 

1 Egg and Sherry 583 

Half-and-Halt 583 

Egg-Flip 584 

Porter Sangaree 584 

I Port-Wine Sangaree 584 

' Mulled Wiiie 584 

Mint Julep 5S4 

Sherry Cobbler 585 

Whiskey Punch 585 

I Beef- Pea 585 

} Beef-Juice on Toast 585 

I Clear Clam-Broth 586 

' Steamed Clams 586 

I Dry Toast 586 

! Broiled Oysters 586 

I Broiletl Squabs 586 

] Milk Porridge 587 

j Rice-Gruel 587 

I Water-Gruel 587 

I Rice and Barley Waters. . . . 587 

I Panada 587 

Caudle 588 

Home-Made Granula 588 

Rennet Curds 588 

Rennet Whey 588 

Bread Jelly 589 

Cranberry and Sago Jelly. . . 589 
Dishes for Children 589 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Part I. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 

THE KITCHEN. 

THE fitting-up and care of the kitchen have been so 
often treated by writers upon domestic matters, that 
comparatively httle space need be given to the subject here ; 
only a few outlines which every housekeeper can fill by the 
exercise of her own taste and judgment. If possible, have 
the kitchen upon the level of the ground ; or, if it must be 
in the basement of a house, take care that plenty of light 
and air reach it. If daylight does not flood every corner of 
it, supply artificial light, even in the daytime ; for no domestic 
operation requires more light than the treatment of food. 
Painting the wood-work and floor a light color is of use in 
this particular. In some of the modern houses where there 
are elevators, the kitchen and laundry are placed in the top 
story, greatly to the comfort of all the inmates of the house, 
who thus escape all odors of cooking and washing. 

Equally with light is cleanliness important in the kitchen. 
The cleaning of floors is considered in the chapter on The 
Dining-room. The walls of a kitchen should be of some 
hard finish, either panelled wood, tiles, or plastering which 
can be covered with whitewash or kalsomine coloring. 



2 PRACTICAL A ME NIC A AT COOKERY. 

Any lime wash is desirable for the kitchen, because it 
tends to keep the air pure if frequently applied. The follow- 
ing will be found excellent : Half fill a large pail with quick- 
lime ; pour upon it one gallon of cold water, and stir it 
until ebullition ceases ; then stir in one pint of linseed-oil, 
and add enough more cold water to make the wash of the 
consistency of thin paste. Copperas-water used in place of 
cold water will make the wash disinfectant to a certain de- 
gree. The use of skim-milk instead of the first cold water 
will make a wash which will resist the action of water. 
Apply the wash with a broad flat brush, moving it up and 
down the walls with even strokes. The so-called White 
House wash is made by slacking half a bushel of quicklime 
with boiling water, keeping it covered until ebullition ceases ; 
meantime a peck of salt is dissolved in warm water, and 
three pounds of ground rice are made into a thin paste by 
boiling it with water ; a pound of clean glue is dissolved in 
warm water at the same time, and half a pound of Spanish 
whiting is powdered ; all these ingredients are mixed to- 
gether, with the addition of enough boiling water to make 
the mixture properly liquid, and it is then strained, cooled, 
and allowed to stand three days in a covered vessel. AMien 
the wash is required for use, it is heated in a double kettle, 
and applied hot with a flat brush. This wash resists the 
action of severe weather, and will serve in place of paint 
for walls, or wood or stone work. It may be used for the 
kitchen woodwork if desired. 

If the kitchen is already painted, and only needs cleaning, 
use hot water and soap with a flannel rag. The addition of 
a handful of borax or four tablespoonfuls of liquid ammonia 
to a gallon of hot water will make a solution which will clean 
paint and glass quickly and well without soap. Wash oil- 
cloths by first rubbing them over with a cloth wet in equal 
parts of milk and water, and then with another wet in warm 



THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 3 

water, and finally with a soft dry cloth ; wet only a small 
place at once, and never use a brush if it can be avoided. 
Keep oilcloths clean ordinarily by wiping them first with a 
damp cloth and then with a dry one ; but do not apply 
soap, or use a harsh brush or a mop. When the paint has 
been scrubbed off oilcloths, and their texture is still un- 
broken, they can be restored by having a coat of good oil 
paint laid over them about once a year. Some durable 
bright color is preferable ; and the effect can be heightened 
by having a solid color for the centre, and a contrasting hue 
for the border. Rubbing with a few drops of ammonia on 
a damp cloth, and subsequent polishing with dry cloth, will 
clean windows easily and well. Kitchen-tables should be 
cleaned every day, with hot water in which either borax or 
washing-soda is dissolved. The sink should be flushed 
every day with boiling water, and a handful of washing-soda 
thrown upon the strainer over the drain-pipe before the 
greasy water is poured down it after a meal is over. If 
this point is attended to, and no scraps of refuse or grounds 
of tea or coffee are allowed to pass into the drain-pipe, 
housekeepers will escape that troublesome and expensive 
plumber's job of cutting out the drain-pipe. Every week, 
in winter, and oftener in summer, a cupful of quicklime or 
of chloride of lime, or a pailful of hot copperas-water, 
should be thrown upon the drain. Copperas-water is a 
valuable disinfectant, free from the objectionable odor and 
physical effect of lime ; it is made by placing the copperas 
in the bottom of a barrel, and covering it with water; 
enough copperas should be used to be plainly seen always 
upon the bottom of the barrel. The water, heated and 
poured in drains, sinks, and water-closets, by the pailful, 
once or twice a week, will keep them entirely free from dan- 
gerous emanations : note this when there is a closet upon 
the lower floor, or near the kitchen. 



4 PRACTICAL AMIlKICAN COOKERY. 

After every meal the towels and dish-cloths should be 
washed in hot water with soap and a little borax,, and they 
should then be well rinsed and dried in the sun or air before 
using them again. Directions are given elsewhere for wash- 
ing dishes. 

. If kitchen utensils are tarnished and discolored, put them 
into a large boiler containing hot water and a handful of 
washing-soda, and let them boil for a few moments ; then 
scour them with any of the good kitchen soaps made of fine 
white silicious matter. Very fine ashes, sand, or brick-dust 
sifted, will answer for scouring iron or copper. For tin and 
japanned or enamelled ware, use powdered whiting, a])plying 
it with a wet clotli, and then polishing with a dry one or 
with chamois. Knives are cleaned with powdered bath- 
brick. 

To clean the stove, first wash it with hot water and soda 
after it is cold, if it is greasy ; and then blacken it with any 
good stove-polish, according to the directions accompanj- 
ing the polish, and rub the steel fittings of the stove with 
emery-paper. To build a fire, first let dow^n the grate, and 
take up the ashes and cinders carefully to avoid raising a 
dust, sifting the cinders to use in building the fire ; brush 
the soot and dust out of the upper part of the stove, and 
from the flues which can be reached ; b6 sure that all parts 
of the ovens and hot-boxes are clean ; if there is a water- 
back attached to the stove, see that it is filled with water ; 
if it is connected with water-pipes, be sure in winter that 
they are not frozen ; brush up the hearth-stone. Lay the 
fire as follows : Put a few handfuls of dry shavings or paper 
in the bottom of the grate ; upon them, some small sticks 
of pine wood laid across each other ; then a few larger 
sticks, and some cinders free from ashes ; a few small lumps 
of coke or coal may be mixed with the cinders. Open all 
the draughts of the stove, close all the covers, antl light the 



THE K/TC/IEiV, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 5 

fire ; when the cinders are Hghted, add fresh coke and coal 
gradually and repeatedly until a clear, bright fire is started ; 
then partly close the draughts. To keep up a fire, add fuel 
often, a little at once, in order not to check the heat : let- 
ting the fire burn low, and then replenishing it abundantly, 
is a wasteful method, because the stove grows so cold that 
most of the fresh heat is lost in raising the temperature 
again to the degree necessary for cooking. Removing the 
covers of the stove, to place a utensil nearer the fire, lowers 
the heat of the entire surface, and affects the temperature 
of tlie ovens ; therefore flat-bottomed cooking-utensils are 
the best, for they fit close upon the covered top of the 
stove. Black iron saucepans cook more quickly than bright 
tin ones ; coppers retain the heat, even when brightly pol- 
ished, longer than any other metal, and are much the most 
durable. All these points of excellence are treated in detail 
in the author's "Cooking-school Text-book," to which the 
reader who desires further information is referred. When 
the fuel used is wood, the fire should be built and man- 
aged much in the same way. Hard wood is preferable to 
pine for cooking-purposes. Charcoal is a good cooking- 
fuel, but it is generally expensive. 

All the kitchen refuse should be burned, first draining it 
from the slops ; and then, when there is no cooking going 
on, it should be put upon the back of the fire, and all the 
draughts thrown open so that it can be quickly and entirely 
consumed. If there is no accumulation of rubbish in the 
kitchen, there will probably be no more croton-bugs or 
roaches than can be destroyed by the persistent use of 
powdered borax and insect-powder. 

THE PANTRY. 

Although cleanliness in the kitchen is generally enforced 
in well-regulated households, the same care is not always 



6 FKACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

extended to those necessary repositories of food, the pantry, 
the refrigerator, and the cellar. The drains too often con- 
taminate the latter, all kinds of food are gathered indiscrim- 
inately in the ice-box, and the pantry has too many dark 
corners. Then, again, the pantry is too often located so 
near the kitchen as to receive more or less heat from that 
room. This access of heat should be guarded against as far 
as possible, because it so interferes with the preservation of 
food. When it is impossible to have the pantry or store- 
room a little removed from the kitchen, the two rooms can 
be separated by double doors, or at least by a door furnished 
with a spring which will always close it. 

The pantry should be so placed as to receive plenty of 
light and air to keep it free from dampness, but it should 
not be so exposed to the sun as to make it hot enough at 
any season to affect its contents. If there is not a storeroom 
proper, a large light closet should be devoted to its uses. 
Shelves should be arranged around the walls, those upon two 
sides at least permitting barrels to be placed under them ; 
hooks should be placed upon the edges of some of the upper 
shelves, within easy reach, for the hanging of bunches of 
herbs and small bags, or nets containing fruit. A cool, dark 
section should be set apart for preser\'es and jellies ; and, 
if they are put up in stone jars or buckets, they should be 
labelled, so that the contents can be kno\vn \vithout opening 
them. The arrangement of shelves, boxes, jars, and barrels 
will suggest itself to any tidy person, as it affords the easiest 
access to their contents. As far as possible, solid cases 
should be used for stores of all kinds, because paper used 
for wrapping them is so readily torn, and is no protection 
against mice or insects. The ordinary contents of the store- 
room include dry groceries, preserves, pickles, bread, and 
cake; the latter should be. kept, in close boxes of .wood or 
tin, which should be frecjuently cleaned. Hot food should 



rilE KITCHEAr, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 7 

never be put into the storeroom, because it gives out steam, 
and thus favors dampness, and also because it slightly heats 
the atmosphere. 

THE REFRIGERATOR. 

In most towns, ice-boxes or refrigerators are obtainable 
already made, but there is some discretion to be used in 
their selection. In choosing one, care should be taken that 
the frame is of hard wood, susceptible of a smooth finish, 
because a soft rough surface attracts and retains moisture 
and injurious odors from the water used in cleansing it, and 
from the ice, as well as from the food itself. If possible, the 
entire lining and shelves should be metallic ; but, if they are 
of wood, they should be hard, and a double set should be 
employed so that some can be drying while the others are 
in use. Marbleized iron or zinc makes the best metal 
shelves. No water or sewer pipes should be connected with 
the ice-box, because poisonous gases readily pass through 
w^ater. In so-called model apartment-houses, the refrigera- 
tor is sometimes connected direct with the drain by a small 
pipe, to permit the escape of the water caused by the melt- 
ing of the ice : there could be no surer way devised to im- 
peril the health of the inmates of the apartments. Ice-boxes 
and refrigerators, large and small, should be cleaned and 
aired often enough to keep them perfectly free from any 
odor. Meat, fish, poultry, or game should never be laid 
upon shelves, but rather hung by hooks'or laid upon racks : 
if the box is too small to. permit this, they should be placed 
upon earthen dishes large enough to prevent contact with 
the box or shelves. Milk should always be kept in closed 
jars, even when in the ice-box, for no other substance is so 
quickly affected by air and surroundings ; it absorbs every 
odor and gas to which it is exposed, and takes on every taint 
in the atmosphere : therefore, as soon as its first natural heat 



8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

has passed away, it should l)e strained, and kept in covered 
vessels, unless it is put into a perfectly clean milk-room shel- 
tered from air and dust. Butter, like milk, readily takes on 
odors and txiint : it should always be kept in covered tubs or 
jars, with brine or a wet cloth covered with salt over it. It 
should never be put near fish, meat, or \'egetables which can 
impart any odor to it. 

The ice-box should not be kept in a damp place, because 
dampness will cause the ice to melt, and predispose food to 
ferment and mould. No steam or furnace pipes or chimney- 
flues should be near enough to vary its temperature in the 
least degree, for this in itself is a frequent cause of injury 
to food. When the weather is variable, it is necessary to 
closely watch food which is not refrigerated. In the winter, 
there is less danger to food from decomposition than in sum- 
mer ; but some kinds are impaired by freezing. And then, 
too, there is always more or less danger of decomposition 
attending the thawing of frozen meats : they should be 
thawed at a dry temperature, only a little above the freezing- 
point, in a well-ventilated room, or in very cold water, — 
never near tlie lire, or in a warm kitchen. When meat has 
once been frozen, it should be kept at that temperature until 
it is thawed for cooking ; for, when once thawed, it is likely 
to spoil quickly, especially in close, damp weather. 

A word in regard to frozen vegetables : they should be 
placed in cold water to thaw, not exposed to the action of 
heat ; but as freezing effects a chemical change in the sub- 
stance and composition of vegetables, — as, for instance, 
when it partly changes the starch in potatoes into glucose, 
— they should generally be protected from frost. Vegetables 
will be referred to again in treating of the cellar. 

As dampness favors decomposition, even at a low tem- 
perature, the ice-compartment in refrigerators should be 
separated from the food-closet by permanent wallsj so that 



THE KITCHEiV, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 9 

moisture cannot be directly communicated from ice to food. 
The only efficient refrigerator is one that thus separates the 
ice from the food, and has an outlet for the water caused by 
the melting of the ice. It is a mistake to use this water for 
drinking or cooking purposes, for it generally contains im- 
purities from the ice. A glass- or porcelain-lined receptacle 
placed next to the ice-compartment, and filled with water, 
will cool pleasantly. The vessel should be washed out and 
filled with fresh water every day, and should be entirely 
closed from the air ; for water impregnated with ©dors or 
vapors from food, or with those which pervade living-rooms, 
is unfit to drink. As water standing in open pitchers for 
any length of time loses all its natural gases, and absorbs 
the deleterious properties in the atmosphere, so, equally, 
that which is exposed to the odors of food in the refrigerator 
becomes injurious. 

In cool weather, meat, fish, game, and poultry may be 
kept in a wire safe for a reasonable length of time. The 
same general care should be given to the safe which the 
refrigerator requires. Its frame should be of hard wood ; 
the racks or shelves, of metal, marbleized or galvanized iron ; 
and the wire-cloth painted as often as it shows any trace 
of rust, because a rough, rusted metallic surface will attract 
and retain deleterious odors, and particles of decomposed 
food. 

THE CELLAR. 

In cities, cellars are generally quite underground, and too 
often contaminated by sewer- and drain-pipes. It is impos- 
sible to take too much care to guard against this danger. 
To a great extent, dampness can be obviated in cellars, by 
flooring them with concrete, and ventilating them thor- 
oughly : for this purpose there should be movable windows, 
in good working-order, with direct communication with the 
outer air. 



10 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Cellars cannot always be lighted without artificial means, 
but they can be kept clean and dry, A little copperas dis- 
solved in the water used for making lime-wash, or some 
good disinfectant, can always be used to purify the air ; and 
care can be taken that no dirt of any kind accumulates. 
As this subject is treated exhaustively in the author's work 
on " Diet for Invalids," no more need be said here. If 
fruit or vegetables are kept in cellars, they should be exam- 
ined frequently, and all spoiled portions removed. The 
darknes? necessary to the preservation of some vegetables 
can be secured by covering them with old clean blankets or 
carpet, or, better still, with several thicknesses of newspaper, 
which can be thrown away when they bear any trace of 
mildew : the blanket or carpet should be dried frequently, 
and washed when it becomes at all mildewed. The tem- 
perature of cellars where vegetables are kept should be regu- 
lated so that they can neither freeze, nor spoil from excessive 
heat : a safe temperature is about 50° Fah. 

When vegetables are kept in bins, they should be made 
of hard smooth wood with covers ; otherwise, barrels and 
boxes with covers should be used. If those roots and tubers 
which are to be kept until late in the winter are packed in 
layers, in sand or clean moss or excelsior-shavings, they will 
keep fresh and good in a dry, cool cellar. Apples may be 
packed in this way, or in dry sawdust, or wrapped in soft 
paper, and stored in barrels or boxes. Winter pears may be 
laid between the folds of an old clean blanket, on a shelf, 
in a dry cellar. Cranberries are best preserved by keeping 
them covered with witer, and lemons do well in the same 
way ; care should be taken that the water does not freeze, 
and it should be changed often enough to maintain its fresh- 
ness. Parsnips are generally left in the ground during the 
winter, but they may be kept in sand in the cellar. If 
turnips are kept in sand, they are less apt to become corky 



THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. II 

than when exposed to the air. Celery keeps well, quite 
buried in the sand. Squashes and pumpkins require a cool, 
dry place. Cabbages may be laid in heaps, or packed in 
barrels, with the root up, and a thick covering of their own 
outer leaves upon the top, under the cover of the barrel or 
bin. Onions should be spread upon shelves, or kept in well- 
aired baskets. Beets should be buried in sand, as also carrots. 
Potatoes keep well in barrels in a cool, dark part of the cellar. 
As the spring approaches, or if they begin to show signs of 
germination at any season, they may be put into baskets 
with handles, and placed in boiling water for three minutes ; 
after that they are to be thoroughly drained, and then re- 
turned to the cellar : the heat of the water destroys the 
young sprouts, without injuring the rest of the potato for 
subsequent cooking. Sweet potatoes require a very dry 
place, but do not keep any length of time ; so that, unless 
the family is large, they should be bought only in small 
quantities. All the vegetables which are used green, or in 
an immature condition, should be dried, canned, or pre- 
served in their season. Radishes and mushrooms may be 
raised during the winter, in warm cellars ; and parsley and 
lettuce, in window-boxes, at any temperature suitable for 
house-plants ; mustard and cress will grow from seed within 
a few days in window-boxes. 

THE CARE OF MILK AND BUTTER. 

Reference has already been made to the importance of 
taking special care of the milk and butter intended for daily 
consumption in the household ; but where one or two cows 
are kept, and a little butter is made, a few more directions 
may be useful. 

It is as important that the cows and their shed should be 
kept perfectly clean, and that they are properly fed, as that 
their milk should receive attention ; and the housekeeper 



12 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

should see to this, although such details belong properly 
to those having care of the cows. When cows have been 
fed upon cabbage or turnips, or have eaten onions in the 
fields, in such a way that the taste is perceptible in the milk, 
add to it, as soon as it is drawn from the cows and strained, 
one quart of boiling water to each two gallons of milk, or 
have a piece of saltpetre the size of a pea powdered and put 
into each pail before milking the cows. Either of these 
methods will generally destroy the foreign flavor, without in- 
juring the milk ; but if the cows are shut up so that they 
have no access to such food for six or eight hours, the milk 
will be sweet. The cows should be milked kindly and gen- 
tly, and not immediately after- any violent exercise ; and, 
when possible, always by one person who understands their 
idiosyncrasies, and can get all the milk : if a cow is not 
milked thoroughly, the quantity will gradually decrease and 
become poor until the supply ceases altogether. When a 
cow is unquiet during milking, a piece of rock-salt put into 
a trough for her to lick will generally keep her quiet ; but if 
she is vicious, her legs must be strapped. 

Tin pails, scrupulously clean, are best for milking : if 
wooden ones are used, they must be of hard, smooth wood, 
scalded and then rinsed with cold water before being used. 
The milk should be strained directly it is drawn, and set in 
a temperature of about 60° Fah. to become cool : milk 
should always be cooled before it is covered in any way. 
Deep tin pails, with a handle for lifting, are better for setting 
milk for cream than the old-fashioned shallow pans : they 
should always be kept scrupulously clean, being scalded, 
aired, and sunned after each time of use. Cream should be 
skimmed according to the season, in twelve, twenty-four, or 
thirty-six hours. If the milk sours under the cream, no harm 
is done ; but it should not be allowed to stand before skim- 
ming, until the curd and whey separate. 



THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 1 3 

When enough cream is ready from one skimming to make 
butter, it need only be set away without disturbance until 
it becomes slightly sour, — from twenty-four to forty-eight 
hours : but when it has to be accumulated, an ounce of pul- 
verized salt may be put into the bottom of a two- or three- 
gallon jar \ and, every time cream is put in, it should be 
thoroughly stirred with that already in the jar. Any drops 
upon the inside of the jar should be wiped off, and it should 
be kept covered with a piece of gauze. A shallow ladle is 
best for skimming, and it need not be perforated. No wind 
should be permitted to blow over the surface of cream while 
it is rising, and it should be protected from dust. The most 
cream seems to rise upon milk cooled by ice. Although 
cream needs to be a little sour before churning, it must not 
be allowed to become at all bitter : the churning may be 
done two or three times a week. 

Before using the churn, it should be scalded for one min- 
ute with boiling water, then emptied, and partly filled with 
very cold water for five minutes : after that, the water may 
be poured out, and the cream put into the churn. Very 
thick cream should be thinned with milk before churning. 
When the cream froths much in the churn, the butter should 
be used soon after it is made, because there is some condi- 
tion of the milk or cream which will prevent the keeping 
of the butter. Churn with a series of steady, even strokes, 
about sixty to the minute, and stop when the butter comes 
in small, firm masses. At some seasons it is necessary to put 
some very cold milk, or a piece of ice, into the churn liefore 
the butter will come ; this may be done if it does not begin 
to appear in about half an hour : butter comes in about half 
an hour when the cream is at a temperature of about 65° Fah. 

When the butter comes, if it is very soft, put ice or very 
cold water into the churn so that it will harden enough to 
be taken up. Remove the butter from the churn, to a clean 



14 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

table or butter-tray, with a wooden paddle, first wetting both 
in very cold water. Never use the hands in working butter. 
With the ladle, cut down through the butter, and press it 
firmly, to work out the buttermilk ; but do not smooth it, 
because that breaks the grain of the butter. If the weather 
is warm enough to make the butter soft, put a piece of ice 
upon it, and trust to the second working to extract the water. 
When the buttermilk is worked out, spread the butter out on 
the tray or table, sprinkle over it the finest dair>--salt, — about 
an ounce of salt to a pound of bulter, — and then, using the 
same cutting motion, thoroughly work the salt into the butter. 
Some butter-makers add about a (juarter of an ounce of fine 
white sugar to each pound of butter at the first or second 
working : the sugar is a good corrective to any trace of bit- 
terness in the butter, and helps preserve it. After the salt 
has been worked into the butter, put it away to harden again. 
When the butter is hard, repeat the working with the ladle, 
to work out all the water, and use a cloth repeatedly wrung 
out of ice-water to pat the butter while working it ; do not 
work long enough to soften the butter, but extract all the 
moisture, so that a clean surface is presented when cut, with 
only a slight dew upon it. Then either make it up in pats 
or rolls, wrap each one in a wet cloth, and sink them in 
brine, or pack the butter in firkins as directed below. The 
butter should be of a rich yellow color, sweet and nutty in 
flavor, and showing a fine close grain when broken, or an 
even surface slightly bedewed with colorless moisture when 
cut. Freezing does not impair the taste or keeping-quality 
of butter : but if it \z long exposed to the air, it is apt to 
become rancid upon the surface ; and this rancidity gradually 
penetrates the entire mass, and develops an acid which is 
poisonous when brought into contact with any copper surface. 
All packed butter should be put into firkins or tubs made 
of hard wood, — oak or hemlock, — which have been soaked 



THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 1 5 

in brine for twenty-four hours, and then wiped, and sprinkled 
with fine salt. Pack the butter down tight and close, and 
cover the top layer with a cloth wet in brine and sprinkled 
thickly with fine salt. If the tub is not filled at the first 
packing, when more butter is ready to put in, remove the 
cloth, rinse it in cold water, wipe or wash off with cold water 
any salt which may have fallen upon the butter, pack in 
what is ready, and again cover it as before with the wet 
cloth and salt. 

A good brine for butter can be made as follows : Dissolve 
in a gallon of cold water as much fine salt as it will receive, 
— that is, until salt can be seen upon the bottom of the 
vessel containing the brine ; then put it over the fire, with 
an ounce of sugar and a level teaspoonful of powdered salt- 
petre, and let it boil up ; after that, cool it, strain it, and 
use it. 



CHAPTER II. 

MARKETING. 

AS the excellence of a dinner depends as much upon 
the quality of its materials as upon the skill of the 
cook, it is incumbent on the good housekeeper to have some 
knowledge of marketing. If a good cook can do better 
with poor materials than a poor cook Avith the best supplies, 
how great will be the satisfaction in a repast which supple- 
ments judicious selection with perfect cookery ! The skilled 
marketer must have experience, but even the youngest be- 
ginner can gain some advantage from such clear and explicit 
description as is presented in this chapter. 

The complaint is often made, that the pictures of meat 
given in cookery-books do not resemble the meat as it 
appears in market. The pictures given in this work have 
been carefully engraved from photographs taken from sides 
of meat ready to be exposed for sale. The lines which indi- 
cate the different joints represent the average lines employed 
in cutting meat by butchers in various parts of the country : 
relatively the difference is so slight, that in giving lessons 
in the cutting of meats, in many places, only unimportant 
variations have been observed, and even these concerned 
the names rather than the actual forms of the cuts. Indi- 
vidual butchers may vary their cutting-lines a few inches, but 
the main ones given in the several engravings are accurate 
enough to serve as a general guide to markqiers. 
16 



MARKETING. 1 7 

Before entering upon the detail of meat marketing, a few 
words may be well said upon the importance of freshness in 
food of all kinds, and especially when several kinds are used 
for making one dish, such as a soup or a stew. The least 
taint in any ingredient will impair the flavor of the dish, 
and often produce temporary discomfort or positive illness ; 
therefore the marketer should not be tempted to purchase 
wilted vegetables, or meat upon the verge of spoiling, 
because the price may be low. In fact, the rule may be 
accepted, that fair goods command a fair price ; the only 
notable exception being when marketing-days occur only two 
or three times a week, or at the end of the week, when the 
food is sold at a reduction towards the close of the day, 
by dealers who do not wish to take the risk of keeping it. 
Street-peddlers seldom have fresh wares, even if they give 
good measure ; because they generally buy at a low rate, 
from dealers whose supplies are upon the verge of spoiling. 
This is especially the case with fruit : the street-peddlers 
are most active when the market is glutted with green or 
over-ripe fruit for which there is no legitimate demand. In 
some localities, however, — notably in country-places, — 
honest small dealers supply their scattered customers by 
wagon-route, greatly to the housekeepers' convenience : of 
course the foregoing remarks do not apply to them. 

THE PREPARATION OF MEAT FOR MARKET. 

This is a matter requiring close care and nice calculation ; 
and, under the manipulation of skilled slaughterers, all parts 
of the creature have an actual market value. The finest 
hair of beef, after thorough cleansing, is used in the manu- 
facture of coarse blankets ; the long tuft on the end of the 
tail is employed in upholstery ; the^ coarse hair is made into 
mortar ; the skin is tanned for leather ; the horns are used 
for combs, knife and umbrella handles, buttons, and various 



l8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Other articles of use and fancy ; the bones and refuse of the 
horns and hoofs become fertilizers, or are made into glue ; 
the feet yield neat's-foot oil ; the blood and offal are made 
into fertilizers ; all superfluous fat is made into either oleo- 
margarine or oil. 

In New York and some other large cities, the butchers 
employ the Jewish method of slaughtering, which consists 
of draining the carcass of all the blood. After the animal 
is killed, the interior is examined to make sure that the meat 
is in a perfectly healthy condition ; and it is then cut up for 
sale. The intestines and their surrounding fat are removed ; 
the heart, liver, and kidneys being prepared for the retail 
trade. The layer of fat which surrounds the intestines is 
stretched over the inner surface of the body, and held in 
place by wooden skewers, so that it may not contract in cool- 
ing : it is this fat which is so excellent in spring lamb. The 
outer coating of fat, mingled with a thin layer of flesh, is 
often cut so that in cooling it contracts, and forms fanciful 
figures on the surface of the meat. The thickness of this 
outer layer of fat is a safe indication of the condition of 
the carcass : well-fed animals show thick back-fat, and the 
kidney-fat or suet is very abundant, while the entire flesh is 
marbled with small lines of fat. The last joints of the legs 
are carefully cleaned, and the head is freed from hair and 
horns. 

The entire flesh of the head of beef in this country is 
generally made into sausage-meat ; but in Europe it is sold, 
either fresh or cured, under the name of ox-cheek : the 
palate is a si>ecial delicacy there, and many dishes are made 
of the brains. In this country the tongue is generally the 
most important part of the head, being used fresh, or corned 
with salt, or pickled and smoked. As a matter of fact, most 
of the edible viscera can be made into palatable and nutri- 
tious dishes ; and some of the so-called cheap cuts of meat 



MARKETING. • 79 

are preferable, on the score of flavor and strength-giving 
properties, to the most expensive. For instance, the shoul- 
der of mutton is much more delicate than the leg. And the 
filet or tenderloin of beef, generally the most expensive cut, 
has less taste and nutriment than any other part of the flesh 
of the animal : it is simply tender ; and that is because it 
is composed of muscular fibre which is worked but little, 
and consequently is not as well nourished as those parts 
that are so exercised as to make their circulation rapid and 
ample. When we offer the tenderloin of beef to a guest or 
an invalid, we only give them the most expensive meat, not 
the best. And so it frequently is with mutton : contrary 
to the general impression prevailing in this country, the 
shoulder is the choice portion ; in England, where the best 
mutton in the world is raised, it is that which is set before 
the guest, while the leg is relegated to the family table as 
being the more economical and less delicate. It is a favorite 
maxim among good old-fashioned housekeepers, that only 
prime cuts of meat are available and of good value. But 
this is the case only when the family taste insists always 
upon a roast or a steak : when any variety of fare is accept- 
able, many of the cheap cuts can be made into delicious 
dishes ; and, when there is a general demand for them, 
butchers will willingly keep them to meet it, and thus in a 
measure equalize the price of more expensive cuts. 

It is not always that the average late marketer has the 
opportunity of buying the best meats. In cities, the buyers 
for large hotels, restaurants, and clubs market very early, or 
have the choice parts reserved for them. Then, too, every 
dealer will have his special customers whose wants he endeav- 
ors to supply : if he is honest, he will of course give all his 
customers as good as he has on hand, and they may rely 
upon his opinion; but there are occasions when the buyer 
may safely depend upon individual judgment. 



20 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



GOOD POINTS IN MEATS. 

A few clearly defined points will enable any ordinarily care- 
ful and intelligent person to select a good quality of flesh 
from what is offered. The best meats are from well-fed, ma- 
ture animals, which have not been overworked, and the meat 
of which has been carefully transported from the slaughter- 
house to the market. A loose texture of flesh in full-grown 
meats indicates an excess of water, which will cause the meat 
to shrink in cooking or preserving it in any way. The flesh 
of grass-fed meat is of this character ; while that of " stall- 
fed " or " corn-fed " animals has a firm, dense fibre, admira- 
bly calculated to retain its substance, either under the action 
of heat in cooking or of salt in curing it. Of the three best- 
known mature meats, beef has the largest and firmest fibres, 
and pork has the densest, closest texture ; and therefore both 
are well suited for curing. About one-fifth of the weight of 
flesh is composed of the solid substances of fibrine, albumen, 
and gelatine ; the residue being the juice of the flesh, which 
consists of water and some soluble salts that are essential to 
the preservation of health. It is this juice, of which salted 
meats are largely deprived, which is too often lost by im- 
proper methods of cooking ; as in the pounding of beefsteaks, 
under the erroneous impression that they are thus made ten- 
der, when really the labor of mastication saved by the break- 
ing of the fibres is more than handicapped by the loss of the 
juice entailed by the pounding operation. When the fibre 
of meat is over-tough, it can be softened by using vinegar 
during cooking, according to the directions given elsewhere. 

The fact is not always known to city marketers, although 
it is generally well understood by people in the country who 
kill their own meat, that the flesh of animals and birds is 
always most tender if cooked while it is yet warm with vital- 
ity. Every sportsman who has cooked game in the field or 



.MARKETING. 21 

camp directly it was killed, has demonstrated this fact. A 
familiar domestic instance of it is the practice of the famous 
negro cooks of the South, of cooking chickens before their 
flesh grows cold after they are killed. If a bird is killed, 
picked, and cooked at once, it will always be tenderer than 
if it is allowed to grow cold and stiff. Beef, or any meat 
which has been killed long enough for the warmth of life to 
leave it, will be dense and hard of fibre until the stiffness of 
the muscles consequent upon the loss of vital heat, that 
causes toughness, has been overcome by that relaxation of 
the tissues which precedes the beginning of actual decom- 
position of the flesh. No matter how prime the animal is 
before killing, after the flesh is once cold it will be hard and 
tough until this muscular change takes place. As consider- 
able loss in weight is consequent upon the long keeping of 
meat, butchers are sometimes unwilling to assume it ; but 
they will generally hang meat long enough for it to become 
tender, if their customers will take it at its first weight. 

The flesh of young animals seems tender, because of its 
softness and looseness of fibre. Its texture is naturally less 
firm, than that of mature creatures, but it is correspondingly 
less nutritous ; and, while it appears to be easily masticated, 
it is really only less entirely reduced to the condition of pulp 
which permits the beginning of digestion, because its soft, 
semi-gelatinous fibres elude the teeth, while the compara- 
tively short time it remains in the mouth does not favor that 
complete admixture with the saliva which is necessary to the 
first stage of digestion. This is the reason why such young 
meats as veal and sucking-pig are not desirable foods for 
persons whose digestion is impaired. While the flesh of 
young meats seems thus relatively tender, it is not so 
acceptable to the palate as that of mature animals in good 
condition. 

A glance will show an experienced marketer the difference 



22 PRACTICAL AMERICAiX COOKERY. 

between good and poor meat. The first has a ft-esh, bright 
color, with plenty of back- and kidney-fat, and fine thread- 
hke particles of fat running through the flesh : the odor is 
sweet, and the general appearance clean. On the other 
hand, meat in bad condition is dark and dull in color, with- 
out the tracery of white fat throughout the flesh and its abun- 
dance on the back and about the kidneys ; even if the fat is 
abundant, its color will be yellowish and its consistency soft ; 
the odor will be more or less unpleasant. No amount of 
washing will restore the excellence of stale or tainted meat, 
or counteract its poisonous effect upon the system. The 
fact should be remembered in this connection, that meats 
which have been kept on the ice, and are then exposed to 
the action of a warm atmosphere, taint much more quickly 
than those that have never been iced. 

BEEF. 

Good beef is of a clear, bright-red color, veined or mar- 
bled with whitish fat, with abundant kidney-fat or suet, and 
thick back-fat : the fat of a prime creature is of a clear, 
whitish-yellow color, rather hard and brittle, as contrasted 
with the dull yellow fat of inferior beef, which is also soft 
and greasy. The second grade of beef is of a dusky-red 
color, with scant fat interspersed among the muscular fibre 
and very little upon the back and kidneys ; the odor of the 
meat is good ; and, if it is hung long enough, the flesh will 
be comparatively tender. Poor beef has little or no back- 
fat, very scant yellowish kidney-fat, and dark-red, hard flesh ; 
in cooking it, the aid of vinegar will soften the fibres to some 
extent, but it can never be made entirely good ; if the odor 
is rank and strong, it will always be noticeable. 

The carcass of beef as marketed is cut into sides, and 
these again into fore- and hind-quarters. The engraving 
shows a side of beef with the cutting-lines placed where 







Side of Beef. 



23 



24 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

most butchers locate them : in different parts of the country, 
they vary slightly ; but, as has already been said, the difference 
is more in name than in appearance. The choicest parts of 
the carcass are along the line of the backbone. One rather 
unusual cut, the baron of beef, is not shown : it consists of 
the double loin or sirloin, and is too large for ordinary pur- 
poses, the average weight being about one hundred pounds. 
The following figures indicate the position, in the picture, 
of the different cuts of beef : — 

1. Shin, or leg; used for soups and plain stews. 

2. Round ; used for steaks, pot-roasts, and beef a la mode. 

3. Rump ; used for steaks, stews, and corned beef. 

4. Butt or flank steak ; used for steak, pressed beef, and 
corned beef. 

5 . Large sirloin steaks ; large, juicy steaks, used for broil- 
ing and frying. 

6. Sirloin roast or porterhouse steaks; used for the choice 
roast or beefsteaks. 

7. Flank ; used for corned beef or stews. 

8. Navel ; used for corned beef. 

9. Plate ; used for corned beef. 

10. Ribs ; used for roasting. 

11. Chuck ribs ; used for roasting and steaks. 

12. Shoulder-piece; used for soups, stews, mince, and 
pot-roasts. 

13. Shank, or shin ; used chiefly for soups. 

14. Neck ; used for soups, stews, and hash or mince. 

15. Brisket; used for corned beef, spiced beef, and stews. 
There is choice to be exercised in regard to steaks and 

roasts. The hip- or thick-end of the sirloin or porterhouse 
cut makes the finest beefsteaks, the two hip-bone or tender- 
loin steaks being the best large beefsteaks in the entire car- 
cass. The middle porterhouse steaks are smallej, and have 
a good proportion of tenderloin ox filet ; the thin end of the 



MARKETING. 2$ 

sirloin gives small porterhouse steaks of excellent flavor. 
Beyond the hip-bone sirloin steak, come the flat- and round- 
bone sirloin steaks, which are large, juicy, and well-fiavored ; 
then the ordinary large sirloin steaks reach to the rump-piece. 
The tenderloin ox filet of beef runs under the sirloin, begin- 
ning at the round-bone sirloin steak, and running up to about 
the third small porterhouse, — from fifteen to twenty inches, 
— and weighing five pounds or more. Rump and round 
steaks cut from fine beef are composed of firm, juicy, well- 
flavored flesh, and in point of nutriment compare favorably 
with any portion. The roasting-ribs are cut from the fore- 
quarter ; they number in all thirteen, and are usually cut in 
twos or threes, according to the size or weight required. 
The first two or three are called the first-cut ribs ; then come 
the second- or middle-cut, reaching as far as the fifth or sixth 
rib ; the third-cut ribs reach up to the chuck- or shoulder- 
ribs, which begin at the ninth rib : all these cuts are juicy, 
tender, and highly flavored. The four chuck-ribs proper run 
up to the neck. The piece of shoulder-blade running 
through the chuck-ribs can be cut out by the butcher, and 
replaced with a piece of fat. The chuck-ribs are divided 
according to the requirements of the purchaser : their flavor 
is sweet ; and, as they are marbled with fat in good beef, they 
rank next the sirloin, either as roasts or steaks. The chuck 
nearest the neck is inferior in quality to the other end near 
the ribs proper. 

VEAL. 

The best veal is from a milk-fed calf about six weeks old. 
Veal less than a month old is watery, soft, and insipid. 
Good veal shows a fine-grained, juicy flesh, of a delicate 
pinkish color, with firm white fat. When the food of calves 
is changed to grass, hay, or meal, the character of the flesh 
changes : it is harder, less juicy, and darker in color, and the 
fat grows yellowish. When the flesh of veal is very white. 



26 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOK'ERY. 

it may have been blanched for the purpose of changing the 
appearance of poor veal to that of good quality. The flesh 
of the second (juality of veal is red, contrasted with the 
pinkish-white prime flesh, and the fat is coarser-grained and 
less abundant. The poorest kind of veal has decidedly red 
flesh, and very little kidney-fat. When the kidney-fat of any 
quality of veal begins to grow soft and clammy, the meat is 
on the verge of spoiling. Bob-veal is the flesh of calves 
killed when they are less than three weeks old : the flesh is 
soft, semi-gelatinous, and sticky, and the fat is scant and 
flabby. It is utterly unfit for food : being the first flesh of 
the young creature, unchanged by the healthful action of sun 
and air, it is devoid of those elements which make good flesh 
a wholesome food. The influence of sun and air upon the 
blood of animals is well understood by stock-raisers, who 
have demonstrated that far better meat is produced by ani- 
mals fattened in the open air than by those that are housed 
for any considerable length of time. The annexed cut rep- 
resents a carcass of veal prepared for market, the lines being 
those generally followed in cutting it up. 

1 . Leg, including part of the flank ; used for cutlets and 
roasts. 

2. Loin ; used for roasts and chops. 

3. Flank : this part is often nearly all cut with the leg, 
but if separated it makes a good roll for baking or stew- 
ing. 

4. The ribs lying under the shoulder ; used for roasts, 
chops, and stews. 

5. Breast ; used for stews, pot-pie, and baking. 

6. Shoulder ; used fbr roasts and baked dishes. 

7. Neck ; used for broth and stews. 

8. Feet ; used for jelly. 

The hind-quarter of veal is generally considered the finest, 
but the rib-chops are exceedingly good. In a small carcass 



I WW ^IvUIW JiilihVAl 




Side of Veal. 



27 



28 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOK'ERY. 

of veal, the hind-quarter would be divided simply into loin 
and leg, and the fore-quarter into shoulder, breast, and neck. 

LAMB. 

Spring lamb is divided simply into fore- and hind-quarters 
by a middle cut, which leaves several of the ribs attached 
to the hind-quarter. The latter commands the highest price, 
because it presents the greatest available quantity of meat ; 
but its flavor is not superior to that of the shoulder. If a 
lamb is very large, the neck may be separated from the fore- 
quarter to use for stews. Very delicate dishes are made 
from lamb's feet. 

Sprihg lamb proper is from six weeks to three months old. 
House-lamb is lamb fed under cover during the winter 
months. Lamb is sold from spring until late winter, not 
being called mutton until after it is a year old. The weight 
of small spring lamb is from twenty to twenty-five pounds ; 
and, as the season progresses, the size increases to about a . 
hundred pounds. As the lamb grows larger, chops are cut 
from both fore- and hind-quarters ; the former being called 
rib-chops, and the latter loin-chops or cutlets, as they are 
taken from the loin or leg. Sometimes small sheep are 
dressed like lamb ; but the difference is shown by the darker 
red of the flesh, the comparative scantiness of the fat, and 
the w^hite color of the bones as opposed to the reddish 
bones of lamb. . The back- and kidney-fat of lamb is hard, 
white, and abundant ; and the flesh has a delicate rosy tint. 
The flesh of the second quality is darker and less firm than 
that of prime lamb ; the grain is coarser, and the fat less 
white and abundant. Poor lamb has scant yellowish fat, 
and lean flabby meat without any interspersed lines of 
fat ; and the flesh is soft and watery. When the kidney-fat 
of lamb begins to grow soft and sticky, the meat is on the 
point of spoiling ; a bad odor indicates that it is already 



30 PRACriCAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

tainted, and is unfit for use. It is not ever a safe experi- 
ment to roast or bake meat upon the verge of spoiling, 
because the gradual heating of the interior will generally 
complete its decomposition. 

MUTTON. 

Mutton is prime from creatures about three years old, fed 
out of doors, and especially upon hillsides. The fat of 
prime mutton is abundant, white, and hard ; the flesh is firm 
and juicy, and of a clear-red color ; and the bones are white. 
The flesh of second quality is darker and closer-grained, 
the fat is scanty and yellowish, and the flavor is rank. Poor 
mutton has pale, flabby flesh, scant thin fat laid close against 
the flesh but not interlined with it, and the flesh parts easily 
from the bones. Diseased mutton has decidedly yellowish 
fat, and soft, flabby flesh. Small mutton is cut like large 
lamb ; large mutton is cut by the lines indicated in the 
annexed cut. 

1. Leg ; used for roasts : in large mutton, part of the leg 
is cut with the saddle. 

2. Loin ; used for roasts and chops : the dotted line at 2 
shows the cut for a saddle of mutton. 

3. Flank ; cut separate in very large mutton, but in 
medium-sized carcasses included in the loin cut or chops. 

4. Rack, or rib-chops ; used for rib- or French-chops. 

5 . Breast ; used for roasts, stews, and baked dishes. 

6. Shoulder ; used for roasts and baked dishes. 

7. Neck ; used for cutlets and stews. 

The saddle of mutton is the double loin, cut without split- 
ting it down the back : a detail of illustration is given else- 
where. French chops are rib-chops with the end of the 
bone trimmed off, and the flesh and fat cut away from 
the bone at the thin or flank end, leaving the round piece 
of flesh near the back-bone attached to the rib. 




Side of Lamb 



32 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



PORK. 

The best pork for general table-use is from carcasses 
weighing from fifty to about a hundred and twenty-five 
pounds. The color of the flesh is a fresh pink ; and the fat 
is hard and white, not less than an inch thick upon the back, 
and very abundant about the intestines. The skin of young 
pork is whitish and semi-transparent. The second quality 
of pork has rather hard red flesh and yellowish fat ; the 
poor sort has dark, coarse-grained flesh, soft fat, and a gen- 
erally inferior appearance. Measly pork, which is unfit for 
use, has little kernels in the fat ; the kernels or yellowish 
lumps sometimes show in the lean, and the entire flesh has 
a dull look. The tenderloins of pork correspond with those 
of beef in place : they are of sweet and tender flesh, and 
during the winter season can generally be bought. When 
the back-fat of pork is very thick, some of it is removed 
from the parts which are to be used for roasts and chops ; 
when the skin is dressed on roasts, it is scored in lines about 
half an inch apart. 

The accompanying cut shows a carcass of pork as divided 
for general cooking-purposes. When the entire creature is 
designed for salting, the cuts differ a little, but not materially. 

1. Leg; used for roasts, ham,. and corned pork. 

2. Flank ; used for pickling or salting. 

3. Loin ; used for roasts, chops, and baked dishes. 

4. Brisket ; used for pickling and salting, and bacon. 

5. Ribs ; used for roasts, chops, and baked dishes. 

6. Shoulder ; used for roasts, ham, and corned pork. 

7. Neck ; used for roasts and neck cutlets. 

8. Top of head ; used for pickling and salting. 

9. Cheek ; used for pickling and salting. 

10. Hock ; used for pickling and salting. 

11. Feet; used for souse and jelly. 




Side of fiorfi. 



33 



34 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

12. Tail-piece ; used fresh as a choice roast. 

That part of a carcass of pork used for bacon is the flank 
and brisket, inckiding the belly and the thin part of the ribs : 
it is first thoroughly salted, and then dried or smoked. The 
flitch of bacon is the entire side between the shoulder and 
the leg. Brawn is the entire length of a side, pickled, after 
it has been boned and rolled, and then boiled. 

POULTRY. 

There is no season when it is impossible to obtain good 
poultry of some kind ; but in warm, damp weather it is 
advisable to select that which has not been long killed, or 
preserved on ice, as both are likely to spoil quickly. In 
selecting fowls, see that the skin is clean, soft, and not badly 
torn, that the flesh looks plump and light-colored or whitish 
under the skin, and that some fat is apparent. Young fowls 
or chickens have large feet and long necks in proportion to 
their size, and the lower end of the breast-bone is so soft 
as to bend easily in response to slight side pressure : the 
cartilage does not hardeii into bone while the chicken is 
young enough to be absolutely tender. Of course there are 
tender large fowls and capons, bred especially for the table, 
which are well grown, and abound in delicious flesh. If the 
head and feet are upon dressed poultry, they will generally 
indicate its condition. The eyes will be full and bright, and 
the feet soft and pliable, when the poultry is in good condi- 
tion : if it is poor and stale, the feet will be dry and stiff, 
the eyes sunken and dull, and the flesh dark-colored and 
changing to a greenish hue about the back and vent, as the 
poultry nears the point of spoiling. There are so many 
devices for restoring stale poultry which has not actually 
reached the stage of putrefaction, that the only absolute 
safety lies in buying from honest dealers. The head of a 
capon, which is always left on the bird, is smaller in proper- 



MARKETING. 35 

tion to the body than that of ordinary poiiUry ; the comb is 
more withered and pale ; the neck-feathers are longer ; and 
the body is shorter, fatter, and more plump. The flesh of 
capons is very tender and juicy : the weight is usually from 
eight to twelve pounds. Capon turkeys are unusual but 
delicious. The best spring chickens are those which have a 
full breast and are plump and short : those which have long 
legs and large bones are less satisfactory. Bantam fowls, 
which are sometimes marketed, are short and plump, about 
the size of a partridge \ and their flesh is excellent when they 
are young and fat. 

Turkeys are in fine condition when the flesh looks white 
and plump, and they have full breasts and smooth legs : old 
turkeys have rather thick skins covered with long hairs, and 
the flesh is purplish under the skin. Hen turkeys are 
smaller and plumper than male birds, and of less intense 
flavor : turkey poults, or young turkeys, are very tender and 
delicate, but not full-flavored. The finest turkeys that are 
marketed are the mutton-fed birds : they are fat, juicy, and 
well- flavored. 

Young ducks, or ducklings, and goslings are among the 
most delicious poultry : they are very fat, and the flesh is 
highly flavored. Good ducks and geese are plump, with 
abundance of semi-transparent, soft fat : they have a pliable 
breast-bone, flesh-colored and brittle beaks, and windpipes 
that break when pressed between the thumb and finger. 
As the birds grow old, the color of the feet and beaks 
changes from yellow to red. Goslings are sometimes called 
green geese. 

Pigeons and squabs, either domestic or wild, are gener- 
ally in market. Pigeons are good when the breasts are 
large and plump in proportion to the size of the bird. The 
flesh of old birds is very dark-colored, that of good ones is 
dark red, and of squabs so light as to be almost pink. The 



36 PKACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

squabs, also, are very short and fat, and have full round 
bodies and soft legs and feet. 

GAME-BIRDS. 

Game-birds are abundant in all parts of America, in their 
season, and can usually be bought in good condition from 
reliable dealers. The breasts should always be full and 
tender, and the skin upon the rump and about the vent 
clear and freshly colored : if there is any appearance of 
discoloration, the birds are stale. A few feathers plucked 
from these parts will disclose the color of the skin, and a 
touch will indicate the condition of the breast. Despite the 
fact that epicures like game hung until it is upon the verge 
of putrefaction, it is neither safe nor wholesome food in that 
condition : when it is reasonably fresh, it cannot be excelled. 
Among the larger game-birds, the canvas-back duck is the 
best. It is as abundant in the great North-western lakes as 
upon the Eastern seaboard, and the canvas-backs of the 
Pacific Coast are delicious. This duck may be distinguished 
from other species by the appearance of the feathers on the 
back of the male bird, which resemble a piece of rough can- 
vas. The bills of canvas-backs run nearly on a line with the 
top of the head, and are about three inches long : they are 
black, as contrasted wath the bills of other wild duck, which 
generally show some trace of color. When the bills of other 
ducks are black, they are usually of a different shape to those 
of canvas-backs. 

GAME. 

Large game is abundant and varied, and is good until it 
begins to taint. Prime game is clean and fat, and free from 
any unpleasant or musty odor. The most abundant is veni- 
son ; but buffalo, bear, elk, antelope, wild sheep and goat, 
and rabbits, hares, squirrels, raccoons, otters, beavers, badg- 
ers, and musquash or muskrat, are frecjuently marketed, — 



MARKETING. 37 

the later especially in Southern cities, where the old colored 
cooks convert them into excellent dishes. 

With all game, the judgment of a reliable dealer is the 
best guide for the buyer ; but a few hints may be given as 
to the possibility of keeping game in order to make the flesh 
tender. All wild meat will keep good longer than domestic 
meat, because of its firm texture. In average temperate 
weather, clear and dry, meat which has not been frozen will 
keep the following length of time : veal and pork, one day ; 
lamb, two days ; beef and mutton, from three to ten days ; 
large poultry and game-birds, from three to six days ; small 
game from two to five days, and large game about a week. 
In clear winter weather, meat and game frozen in the air 
will keep until there are signs of a thaw : they should then 
be put into an ice-house, where they will remain frozen, or 
thawed out in cold water and speedily used. In warm, muggy 
weather, and during summer rains, meat exposed to the air 
spoils quickly ; and the conditions of warmth and moisture 
to which it is exposed are not unlike those which prevail 
when frozen meat is exposed to the heat of the fire in roast- 
ing and baking. Meats should be hung up, and entirely 
covered with thin cloth or fly-screens, in a cool, dark place, 
free from dampness : they should not be laid upon dishes 
or boards, because the blood which flows from them taints 
more quickly than the flesh itself. It is for the purpose of 
entirely removing this blood, that butchers scrape their 
meat-blocks instead of washing them. Meats designed for 
broiling, roasting, and baking can be hung longer than those 
which are to be' boiled. 

FISH. 

In selecting fish, have it as fresh as possible. This con- 
dition is indicated by the fulness and brightness of the eyes, 
and the clean skin and firm flesh: above all, the odor 
should be sweet and fresh. Fish which is marketed in a 



38 rRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

frozen state should be thawed in cold water, and cooked at 
once. Sea-fish, and those which run from the sea into bays 
and rivers, have the finest flavor : fresh-water fish sometimes 
have a muddy taste, which can be removed to some extent 
by soaking them in salted cold water for a couple of hours 
before they are cooked. All fish are best before spawning : 
after that period, the flesh becomes soft and watery. Good 
crabs and lobsters are heavy in proportion to their size, and 
while uncooked their movements are rapid if they are in 
good condition : if cooked, their odor is sweet as long as 
they are good. Oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels should 
be eaten as fresh as possible always. Salted and smoked 
fish should always have a good odor and clean appearance. 

VEGETABLES AND FRUIT. 

All juicy and green vegetables should be very fresh and 
succulent, and are best just before flowering, as also are the 
sweet herbs called pot-herbs. Roots and tubers should be 
full and fresh-colored : if withered or sprouted, they are 
inferior. The green vegetables should not be bought in 
larger quantity than can be used while they are still fresh : 
they will keep best if sprinkled with water, and laid in a 
cool, dark place. All the roots and tubers are improved 
by laying them in cold water for an hour before using 
them. Details of the keeping of vegetables are given else- 
where. 

Fniit when fresh should be ripe and sound, as perfect as 
possible (because this will make less waste), and bought 
only in (juantities which admit of speedy use, unless it is 
winter-fruit which can be kept without any danger of spoil- 
ing. Preserved and dried fruits keep well in cool, dark 
places, and so may be bought safely in quantities. 



MARKETIA^G. 39 



DAIRY PRODUCTS AND GROCERIES. 

Milk, butter, cheese, and eggs are so perishable that it is 
not well to purchase them in quantities larger than required 
for a few days' use, unless the family is large and can con- 
sume such amounts as are sold at wholesale prices. The 
detail of keeping them has been given elsewhere. 

The corn and wheat products, and cereals in general, 
may be bought by the large quantity if there is a good dry 
storeroom where they can be secured from destructive 
vermin and mouldiness. 



CHAPTER III. 

METHODS OF COOKING. 

WHATEVER the manner chosen for the dressing of 
food, it can be traced to some one of the compara- 
tively few fundamental methods of cookery. These methods 
will be given in this chapter in sufficient detail to enable the 
least-experienced cook to follow them readily. If the fact 
is once accepted, that in cookery similar results follow defi- 
nite operations as certainly as they do in any other manual 
work, there need be no uncertainty or failure. Let any one 
understand that it requires a fixed degree of heat to make 
water boil, and it will not be expected to boil at any less 
heat : it is equally to be supposed, that, if a safe and easy 
way is shown to accomplish a given result in cooking, it will 
be generally followed in preference to less clear and reason- 
able ways of work. 

ROASTING. 

The most primitive cookery was undoubtedly done at an 
open fire. And it yet remains for science to find a better 
method ; for this reason, when it is possible, meat should be 
roasted before an open fire, rather than baked in an oven as 
most so-called roasts are now cooked. At the old-fashioned 
open fire upon the hearth, it was easy to roast, because there 
was in the same spot before the fire the intense heat required 
for cooking, and the constantly changing current of air ne- 
cessary to carry away from the meat the fumes of burning 
40 



METHODS OF COOKING. 4 1 

fat, which must impair its flavor, and the steam set free 
from its interior, which destroys the crispness of its surface 
if confined about it as in baking. In the oven, the fat 
drawn out by intense heat spatters against the hot sides, and 
burns ; while the steam generated by heat from the natural 
moisture of the meat, if confined to the oven, cannot fail to 
soften the surface. This point will be reverted to in treating 
of baking meats. 

It is possible to roast meat before many of the modern 
cook-stoves and ranges, because there is a movable front 
before the grate containing the fuel. When this is the case, 
meat can be roasted with aid of the tin case open on one 
side, called the Dutch- or tin-oven. A clear, hot fire should 
be made. The meat, properly prepared, should be hung in 
the oven, and placed directly in front of the grate ; the 
greatest available heat being required to quickly crisp the 
surface, and thus retain the juices of the meat. The tin 
ovens are generally provided with a movable hook in the 
top, upon which the meat is hung, and by means of which 
it can be turned without changing the position of the oven : 
some of the ovens are made with an automatic spring, that 
keeps the meat constantly revolving upon the hook, and so 
favors a uniformly brown surface. 

In the various recipes in this volume, for roast meats, 
full directions are given for their treatment, so that here it 
is necessary only to say that they should be cleansed by wip- 
ing with a wet cloth, instead of being washed, because water 
extracts their juices ; that no salt should be applied to cut 
surfaces until they are brown, because that, too, has a tend- 
ency to draw out their juices ; and that no water should be 
put into the dripping-pan for basting, because it can never 
get as hot as the hot fat upon the surface of the meat, and 
it also generates steam which impairs the crispness so desir- 
able in a roast. Basting should be done with the drippings 



42 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

which flow from the meat, or with butter. After the meat is 
brown, it may be seasoned ; and, if a " frothed " surface is 
desired, flour may be dredged upon it every time it is basted. 
Directions for making gravy are included in each recipe for 
the different roasts. Anthracite coal, coke, charcoal, hard- 
wood embers, and gas afford good heat for roasting, because 
their heat is intense, and they do not impart any unpleasant 
odor to the meat. 

BAKING. 

As is said in the preceding paragraph, baking is not the 
most desirable way of cooking meat ; but the ovens are often 
available when an open fire cannot be reached. When there 
are two or more ovens in a stove or range, they should be 
set apart for the baking for which they are specially adapted. 
The hottest should be chosen for meats, because equally in 
baking as in roasting it is desirable that the first exposure of 
meat should be to the greatest obtainable heat, in order to 
quickly crisp its surface, and confine its natural juices : be- 
sides this, there is the additional fact to be remembered, that 
meat put into a cool oven will sometimes become tainted 
before it is cooked ; that is, the degree of heat will be high 
enough to forward rapid decomposition, but not high enough 
to cook the meat. The oven should be too hot to permit 
the hand to be held in it even for a moment. It cannot be 
too hot at first ; for, the more quickly the outside of the 
meat is crisped, the more entirely its juices are retained. 
The heat can be moderated when it has served this purpose. 

To prepare the meat for baking, wipe it with a cloth wet 
in cold water, but do not wash it, because that tends to draw 
out the juices ; trim off all defective portions ; lay it in a 
baking-pan without salting it, and quickly brown it ; it may 
then be seasoned, and " frothed " by dredging it with flour 
and basting it with drippings or butter. The bones cut from 
the joint may be put into the pan witli it ; and a little beef- 



' METHODS OF COOKING. 43 

suet, or salt pork if it is not fat enough to yield drippings, 
or some scraps of' vegetables and sweet herbs, may be used 
under it. But no water should be put into the pan : the 
water, even when boiling, is not as hot as the outside of the 
meat ; and, in addition, the steam which rises from it softens 
the entire surface of the meat, and draws out its juices. It 
is futile to expect to restore the extracted juices by means 
of basting; if the meat is not washed or salted, and is 
quickly browned, it will retain its juices so entirely that a rich 
gravy will flow from it when it is carved. Directions are 
given elsewhere for making gravy from the drippings of 
baked meats. 

The reason why separate ovens should be used for meat 
and pastry is because the particles of fat which fly from the 
meat while it is baking burn upon the sides of the oven, and 
impart their odor and flavor to delicate cakes and pastry. 
Different meats should not be baked in the same pans : the 
fact that they are often so cooked at hotels and restaurants 
is one reason why such meats generally lack their distinctive 
flavor. 

The bread and pastry ovens do not require to be so hot 
as those in which meat is baked, and means must be devised 
to moderate their heat when it is excessive ; opening the 
doors, or slides in the doors, of the ovens, cools them rap- 
idly. Their temperature should always be ascertained be- 
fore any thing is put into them to cook. All the flues, and 
the top and bottom of the ovens, should be kept free from 
ashes, and the dampers should always be in good working 
order. When an oven is too hot at the top, cool it by open- 
ing the door, and then guard the top of whatever substance 
is baking by covering it with buttered paper or with an extra 
pan turned over it. If the oven is apt to burn from the 
bottom, cover it half an inch deep with clean sand : this will 
disperse the superfluous heat evenly throughout the oven. 



44 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

If an oven will not heat, have it attended to by the stove- 
maker or tin-smith : if an oven is without ventilation, have 
the close door changed for one supplied with ventilators. 
The latest improvement in stove-ovens is the attachment of 
a wire-gauze door in place of the iron door : the idea is an 

admirable one. 

BROILING. 

The general principles of roasting apply to broiling. The 
circulation of free air around the meat carries away from it 
all the smoke arising from the burning fat, at the same time 
with the products of combustion from the fire. The fire 
must be hot enough to quickly sear the cut surface of the 
meat, and only when this is done will the juices be retained. 

Meat for broiling should be cut from an inch to an inch 
and a half thick ; the surface should be scraped with the 
back of a knife, to remove sawdust and bonedust, and then 
wiped with a wet cloth, but not washed. It is useless to 
attempt to broil well with a poor fire ; for the meat will be' 
smoked, and will lose part of its valuable juices. When the 
fire is clear, put the meat over it, as close as possible to it, 
and crisp first one side and then the other ; if the fire is very 
hot, it will not be necessary to turn the meat repeatedly 
while it is being browned. After both sides of the meat are 
brown, hold it far enough away from the fire to prevent 
burning, and finish cooking it to the desired point ; w-hen 
the fire is hot, and the meat cut as directed above, it will 
cook medium-rare in from fifteen to twenty minutes. A 
good way to hold the meat away from the fire, after the first 
browning, is to place two bricks on either side of the open- 
ing in the stove which contains the fire, and lay the ends of 
the gridiron upon them ; the distance can be regulated by 
changing the position of the bricks. 

After the meat is browned on both sides, it can be tested 
without cutting into it, or removing it from the gridiron, by 



METHODS OF COOKING. 45 

quickly pressing the tip of one finger upon it : if, when the 
pressure is removed, the meat springs up. again, the fibre is 
still elastic because it is uncooked, and if the meat were cut 
it would be found to be very rare ; when, after the pressure, 
the surface of the meat slowly returns to its original level, 
the meat is medium-rare ; when the meat retains the mark 
of the pressure, it is well done. While the meat is being 
broiled, heat a dish to receive it : after it is laid upon the 
hot dish, season it with salt, pepper, and butter, on both 
sides, and ser\-e it at once. Broiled meat always deterio- 
rates by being left standing near the fire any length of time 
after it is cooked. 

FRYING. 

Frying proper "is performed by entirely immersing any 
edible substance in enough smoking-hot fat to cover it ; but 
a form of half-frying is sometimes used for steaks and chops 
when broiling is out of the question. When this kind of fry- 
ing is properly done, the meat will be juicy, well-flavored, and 
will closely resemble broiled meat. It is necessary to make 
the frying-pan very hot over the fire, before putting the meat 
into it. Any kind of frying-pan can be used without danger 
of burning the meat and gravy, except a marbleized-iron 
pan, which is unsuitable for use over intense heat. When the 
frying-pan is so hot that it will siss when the meat touches 
it, put in the meat, and brown it quickly, first upon one side 
and then upon the other, as in broiling ; then finish cooking 
it to the desired degree, and season and serve it : in fact, the 
process is similar to broiling, save that the hot frying-pan 
replaces the fire. If gravy is desired for fried meat, stir a 
tablespoonful of dry flour with the little drippings in the fry- 
ing-pan, and when the flour is brown stir into it a pint of 
boiling water ; season the gravy with salt and pepper, stir it 
until it boils, and then serve it in a gravy-bowl. No butter 
or fat need be put into the pan unless the meat is absolutely 



46 PRACriCAL AMERICAN COOKKRY. 

lean : in that case, use only enough to prevent the burning 
of the meat. 

The frying of fish-balls, croquettes, doughnuts, and other 
foods should be done in a deep frying-pan, or round-bot- 
tomed kettle called a Scotch bowl, half full of drippings, 
lard, butter, or olive-oil, at choice : olive-oil is the best 
medium for frying fish of any kind. The fat must be placed 
over the fire until a thin smoke begins to rise from its sur- 
face : at that temperature, its heat will crisp the outside of 
any food put into it, and so prevent that soaking of fat which 
renders some fried foods so unwholesome. As soon as the 
fried article is browned to the desired degree, and floats upon 
the surface of the hot fat, remove it with a skimmer, lay it 
upon brown paper for a moment to free it from grease, and 
then serve it at once. 

BOILING. 

Boiling consists of immersing any article in actually boiling 
water, and maintaining tlie temperature of the water at the 
boiling-point until the article is cooked. Stewing and sim- 
mering are forms of boiling, as will be explained hereafter. 
Rapid and continued boiling slightly hardens the surface of 
vegetables, thus preserving their form, color, and flavor, and 
is advantageous : details on this point are given in the re- 
cipes for cooking vegetables. On the other hand, the hard 
boiling of meat makes it tough : stewing and simmering are 
the best ways of cooking meat, after it has once been brought 
to the boiling-point. Salted boiling water is slightly hotter 
than fresh boiling water : chemists make use of salt to 
heighten the temperature of water in the bain-marie, or salt- 
water bath, in which vessels are placed containing boiling 
substances which require an unvarying high heat. To boil 
fresh meat, plunge it into salted boiling water, and, when 
the water boils again, place the vessel containing it where the 
boiling will be maintained at a gentle degree until the article 



METHODS OF COOKIXG. 4/ 

is" cooked. If salt or smoked meats are to be boiled, place 
them over the fire in cold water, and let the water gradually 
approach the boiling-point ; maintain a gentle boiling until 
the meat is tender : if the meat is very salt, it may be neces- 
sary to pour away the first water, and replace it with more 
that is actually boiling. When salted meats are to be used 
cold, they are best if allowed to cool in the water in which 
they are boiled. The details of boiling the different meats, 
fish, poultry, vegetables, and puddings, are given in the 
proper recipes. 

Stewing and simmering consist of first bringing any article 
of food to the boiling-point in water or sauce, and then con- 
tinuing the cooking at a very gentle rate of boiling until the 
food is done. These kinds of boiling make food very tender 
and digestible, and prepare its properties for immediate and 
complete nutrition : they are invaluable in treating tough 
meats. 

STEAMING. 

Steaming is an excellent way of cooking, calculated to 
prepare food for imparting all its nutriment to the system. 
It preserves all the flavor of food, and prevents its absorption 
of water when this is undesirable. Steaming can be done in 
any kind of steamer, or in a closed kettle or mould immersed 
in boiling water. 

BRAISING. 

Braising consists of cooking any article of food in water 
or sauce, in a braising-pan. This pan may be either round 
or oval, with a flat bottom, and a depressed cover made to 
hold hot coals or ashes. Braising is more practised in 
Europe than in America, because there fuel is scarce and 
expensive : it was in vogue in this country when cooking was 
done over open fires, the vessel used being called a bake- 
kettle or old-fashioned Dutch-oven. The same effect may 
be produced by putting a covered saucepan containing food 



48 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

into a moderately hot oven and so cooking the food to tlie 
required degree. 

BLANCHING. 

Any articles of food, except sweetbreads and almonds, are 
said to be blanched when they have been immersed in boil- 
ing water for a given length of time : sweetbreads must be 
previously soaked in cold salted water, and almonds subse- 
quently rubbed with a cloth to remove their skins. Details 
of these two operations are given in the appropriate recipes. 

GLAZING AND GILDING. 

Glazing is coating the outside of cooked meat and poultry 
with melted meat-glaze or concentrated broth, the glazed 
surface being dried by heat after the glaze is applied with a 
brush. Roasted and baked meats are frequently glazed. 

Gilding is covering any surface of food with the beaten 
yolk of a raw egg, and subsequently drying or browning it in 
the oven. Fancy pastry is generally gilded. 

LARDING AND DAUBING. 

Larding is the insertion of small, even-size strips of fat salt 
pork, tongue, truffles, or any chosen substance, upon the 
surface of meat, poultry, fish, or game, by means of a little 
split cylinder of steel called a larding-needle. The lardoons 
are inserted in the open end of the needle, which is then 
passed under about half an inch of the surface of the sub- 
stance to be larded : when the needle is withdrawn, the lar- 
doon remains, both ends projecting slightly. The lardoons 
are inserted in diagonal lines, the ends of the second line 
coming between the ends of the first, and so alternating until 
all the lardoons are used ; or they are placed to resemble 
the stitch in needlework called herring-bone. Details of 
illustration accompany some of the larded entrees given 
farther on in this volume. 



METHODS OF COOKING. 49 

Daube is a French term referring to the insertion of a 
large lardoon with the grain of the meat and through its 
entire substance, the ends of the lardoon projecting about 
an inch. In this country, butchers frequently daube beef 
for the dish called beef a la mode, and call the operation 
larding. 

BARDING. 

Barding is fastening over the breast of a bird of any kind 
a large thin slice of fat salt pork, which in cooking serves 
the purpose of basting. Poultry and game are barded. 

BONING. 

The operation of boning consists of the entire removal 
of all the bones from uncooked meat, and the insertion in 
their place of some kind of force-meat. Details for boning 
various joints of meat are given under the appropriate recipes. 
Boned poultry and birds of all kinds are prepared according 
to the following directions. The removal of bones from 
cooked birds is not to be called boning : those cooks who so 
prepare chicken, and call it " boned chicken," simply create 
a confusion of terms. One reason why there is so much 
uncertainty about American cookery is because many house- 
keepers modify a standard dish according to their own ideas, 
and then retain the original name. If they have the ability 
to improve upon an accepted method, they ought to name 
their dish, so as to give it individuality, as justly as inventors 
who improve upon a patent announce the changes by a new 
name. 

To bone a turkey, or any bird, lay it on a table with the 
breast down, after it has been carefully plucked, singed, and 
wiped with a wet towel ; cut off the head, the legs above 
the middle joint, and the wings within two inches of the 
body ; with a small, sharp knife, make a smooth cut through 
the skin and flesh, down the line of the backbone, from the 



50 PA'ACT/CAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

neck to the rump ; then begin at the neck to cut off the flesh 
and skin together from the carcass ; work with the point of 
the knife, holding it flat against the bone, and cutting all the 
flesh off attached to the skin ; first cut from the neck to 
the joint where the wing is connected with the bod}', tlien 
unjoint that, and leave the bone of the wing in the flesh for 
the present, and continue to cut down the back and sides 
until the thigh-joint is reached ; unjoint that, leaving the 
bone in the leg, and cut toward the breast-bone, being care- 
ful not to cut through the skin where it is stretched tight 
over the breast. When the flesh of one side of the bird is 
loosened from the carcass in this way, turn it over, and take 
off the other side. Great care must be taken not to cut 
through the carcass into the intestines, which may remain 
enclosed in it until it is entirely freed from the flesh and 
skin. The most difficult part of the operation is cutting 
off the breast without breaking or tearing the skin : if this 
accident happens, the aperture must be sewed up before the 
bird is stuffed. When the flesh is free from the carcass, lay 
it, skin down, on the table, and distribute the flesh equally 
all over the skin, cutting the thickest portions, and laying 
them open like the leaves of a book, so as to cover the skin ; 
cut out the wing and thigh bones, and turn the flesh and 
skin inside like the fingers of a glove reversed. Remove 
the entrails from the carcass, saving the liver ; break apart 
the bones, put them in a large kettle with four quarts of 
cold water and a tablespoonful of salt, and let the water 
heat. Remove all scum as it rises, and when the broth is 
free from it put in a medium-size carrot and a white turnip 
peeled and used uncut ; a white onion, peeled without 
breaking the layers and stuck with a dozen cloves. Hold a 
small bunch of parsley in the palm of the left hand ; lay on 
it a small stalk of celery, a bay-leaf, a sprig of any sweet 
herb except sage, a blade of mace, and a dozen peppercorns 



METHODS OF COOKING. 5 I 

or a small red-pepper pod ; fold the parsley so as to enclose 
all the other seasonings, and tie it in a compact little bundle ; 
this is called a bouquet, ox fagot of herbs, in French cookery- 
books, and serves to give an indescribable and delicious 
flavor to the dishes in which it is cooked ; add it to the 
broth, and then put on the turkey to boil, after stuffing it 
as directed in the recipe for forcemeat for boned turkey. 

The four recipes for boning a turkey, for preparing the 
forcemeat for stuffing it, and for making caramel and aspic 
jelly, comprise the entire operation of boning, cooking, and 
garnishing boned turkey. These directions are taken from 
the author's " Baltimore Recipes," a set which includes the 
dishes taught during one of her lecture-courses in that city. 



CHAPTER IV. 

CARVING. 

IF a little reasoning were applied to carving, it would seem 
far less difficult than it is sujjposed to be. A little atten- 
tion to the location in a bird, fish, or joint of meat, of the 
bones and joints, enables any person with a tolerably correct 
eye and steady hand to strike and separate the joints and 
sinews of small dishes, and to avoid the unmanageable bones 
in the larger ones. The cuts in this chapter will serve to 
illustrate the garnishing of dishes as well as carving. 

WHOLE FISH. 

The carving of fish is simple. The following cut repre- 
sents a baked fish garnished with parsley. Before cooking, 
the fins and tail are trimmed close, and several deep cuts 
made in each side of the fish to permit the gravy or drip- 
pings used for basting to penetrate the flesh ; the head is 
left on, because some persons prefer the small flakes of flesh 
which lie under and back of the eyes. The fish is laid upon 
a little sauce or a folded napkin, on a hot dish, and garnished 
with a little parsley. To carve either a baked or a boiled 
fish, run the fish-knife by the side of the back fin, from the 
figure I to 2 ; next, cut from the back fin down to the mieidle 
of the under part of the fish, following the dotted lines ; 
then, by slipping the fish-knife under the cut portions, they 
can be easily lifted off and served. After one side. has been 
52 



CARVIiXG. 



53 



served, the fish can be laid over upon the dish, and the other 
side served in the same way ; this gives a portion of both 




Baked Fish garnished with Parsley. 

the thick flesh of the back and the thin gelatinous fat part 
so esteemed by epicures. 



HEAD AND SHOULDERS OF FISH. 

The engraving here given shows the head and shoulders 
of a large fish garnished with turned vegetables and parsley. 
The platter containing the fish is placed over a hot-water dish. 
To carve such a cut of fish, cut from the direction of the 




\M^^ Ck} 



Head and Shoulders of Fish. 




figure I towards 2, following the dotted line ; then cut from 
the top of the back down to the under part, in the direction 
of the dotted lines : this will enable the carver to serve 
either the thick portion from the back of the neck, or the 



54 



J'A'ACVVCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



under part which is rich and gelatinous. This is a favorite 
way of serving boiled salmon, or cod's head and shoulders. 

FISH LARDED AND BAKED. 

This cut gives a very good idea of .a fish larded and baked, 
and then garnished with mushrooms, turned vegetables, and 
parsley. The operation of larding is described elsewhere. 
To serve the fish, cut across the lower edge of the larded 
portion, in the direction from i to 2, and then cut from 
the centre of the back down the larded side, following the 







Fish larded and baked. 



dotted lines. Serve the larded portion, and some of the 
vegetable garnish and the sauce ; usually a bowl of sauce 
accompanies this dish to the table. 



HALF LARGE BOILED FISH. 

This 'picture represents half a large fish, such as fluke, 
turbot, or chicken halibut, boiled, arid garnished with 
parsley. To serve it, cut from the outer edge towards 
the middle, and lift the slices off with the fish-knife. The 
dotted lines indicate the direction which the knife should 
take. Half a medium-size turbot will serve about ten 
people. 




Half Large boiled Fish. 



WHOLE TURBOT GARNISHED. 

When a large turbot. chicken halibut, or fluke is served 
entire, it is made an important part of the course, and much 
care is bestowed upon the garnishing of the dish. The 
engraving represents a turbot garnished with lobster, a craw- 
fish, and parsley. The fish is boiled in a special kettle, to 
prevent breaking. While it is being boiled, a large lobster 
is cooked, and the meat removed from the shell without 




Whole Turbot garnished. 

breaking it apart ; this can easily be done by cutting away 
a portion of the under part of the shell with a can-opener, 
and removing the flesh as entire as i)ossilDle : the available 



56 J'RACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

part of the flesh is then cut in large slices, to be used as 
shown in the picture between the crawfish and the lobster- 
shell. The slices are kept in place by being put upon a 
long flexible skewer ; and the crawfish and lobster are held 
upon the fish by a long ornamental skewer called a hatelet, 
or atelct. The smaller pieces of lobster, and the fat and 
coral, are made into lobster sauce, to serve with the boiled 
fish. To carve the turbot, follow the dotted lines, first cut- 
ting from I towards 2, and then along the dotted lines. The 
under gelatinous part and the thick portion of the fins are 
most esteemed by epicures ; from the back, the best slices 
are from the middle of the dark side. In preparing the 
fish for cooking, leave on the fins ; cleanse it carefully in 
plenty of cold water, rubbing salt plentifully over it, and then 
dry it with a soft cloth ; cut a lemon, dip the cut side in salt, 
and rub it over the white side of the fish before boiling it. 

Other directions for carving fish will be given with the 
recipes for cooking the different dishes. 

POULTRY. 

After some attention has been paid to the location of the 
joints, care should be taken, in carving poultry, to fix it 
firmly with the fork to prevent slipping in the dish, and 
then to make clean cuts from the point where the knife is 
inserted. To hack the flesh, is to destroy much of the 
satisfaction of the eater ; besides, well-carved poultry serves 
so many more at table than that which is hacked and torn. 
It is quite possible to take from a chicken which weighs 
about four pounds cooked, at least fourteen good pieces, 
averaging in size about three inches square. Of course it 
would not' be feasible to illustrate the carving which accom- 
plishes such a result, without many designs showing the suc- 
cessive stages in carving ; but some description is included 
in that of the following cut of a fowl outlined for carving. 



CARVING. 57 



LARDED FOWL. 

The strings used to keep the fowl in shape while cooking 
will of course be removed by the cook before it is served. 
To carve it, first insert the fork firmly in the breast-bone, 
at the point marked by the figure i ; instead of cutting off 
the entire leg, first cut off the drumsticks at 2, and then the 
second joints, thus avoiding one of the most uncomfortable 
parts of carving poultry ; with a very sharp, tliin-bladed carv- 




Larded Fowl. 

ing-knife, the entire fowl can be carved without removing the 
fork from the breast-bone. After the drumsticks and second 
joints are taken off, cut at the dotted Hne marked 3, in 
towards the body, removing the wings ; next insert the point 
of the knife between the neck-bone where it joins the back- 
bone and the wing-side-bone, — a small flat bone which 
unites with the collar of the breast-bone at the dotted line 
marked 4, about midway of the merry-thought or wish-bone, 
— and cut back towards the wing-joint, and thence down- 
wards parallel with the upper part of the back-bone. With 
the wing-side- bone remove a portion of the white meat of the 
upper part of the breast. After the legs, wings, and wing- 
side-bones are removed, and the merry-thought taken off if 



58 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



it is desired separate, the point of the carving-knife can be 
inserted where the ribs join the sides of the Ijreast-bone, 
where the dotted Hne marked 5 joins the dotted line 4 ; by 
turning the sharp edge of the knife outwards, the point being 
towards the thigh, and cutting from the inside out through 
the ribs where they join the breast-bone to the point at the 
lower end of the breast-bone marked 6, on both sides of 
the bird, the breast and entire back of the fowl can be sepa- 
rated. As the carving-fork still remains in the breast-bone, 
the breast can be cut in as many pieces as are desired be- 
fore it is withdrawn. Finally, the back-bone can be broken 
where it joins the lower part of the ribs, at figure 7, and the 
two thigh- side-bones and the rump cut apart. A little study 
of this diagram and description, and practice with a reason- 
ably tender fowl, will soon enable the carver to proceed with 
ease and precision. 

TO CARVE ROAST TURKEY. 

The directions for carving a fowl will apply to a turkey 
unless it is a very large one, and then probably only the 




Roast Turkey, Breast carued. 



breast and second joints of the legs will be required ; in this 
case, cut off the drumsticks and second joints as directed in 



CARJ'/A'G. 



59 



tlie carving of fowls, and then cut the breast as follows : first 
cut through the middle of the breast, following the line from 
I to 2 ; and then follow the dotted line from i, across the 
lower part of the breast, around the thigh and wing and 
across the breast where it joins the neck ; after that, cut out 
slices of the breast in the direction of the dotted lines, cut- 
ting quite down to the bone, and then running the knife- 
blade close to the breast-bone to disengage the flesh from it. 
Sometimes the slices are taken off the breast in diagonal 
cuts, but that method does not equally divide the two fi/ets 
of the breast. 

TURKEY PARTLY BONED. 

When all the bones have been removed from a fowl or 
turkey before roasting, except the wing and drumstick bones. 




Carving of Turkey partly boned. 

slices may be cut as shown in the annexed cut. A recipe is 
given elsewhere for the preparation of this dish, which is 
garnished with aspic jelly and parsley. The first cut is made 
down the middle of the breast, from i to 2 ; and then the 
curved slices are made, cutting down into the forcemeat, or 
stuffincr, of the bird. 



HOW TO CARVE DUCKS. 

When ducks are served, it is advisable to have a pair, 
because only the breast is to be relied upon for tender flesh. 



6o 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



The dotted lines show the direction which the knife should 
take in carving, tlic cuts being made quite down to the 
breast-bone. The remainder of the carcass will make an 




Ducks carued. 

excellent ragout ; or a puree of game, if the ducks are wild. 
The garnish of ducks may be fried parsley or fresh water- 
cress. 

HOW TO CARVE ROAST GOOSE. 

A goose is so large that it is seldom necessary to carve 
the entire bird. The breast can be cut in the direction of 
the dotted lines from i to 2, and then from a semi-circular 



^/ 



% 



'^ f\ 








Roast Goose carved. 



cut at the dotted line 3 some of the forcemeat, or stuffing, of 
the bird can be taken. The garnish of the goose here 
shown is small tart apples fried whole^ and small sausages 
broiled. If the entire bird is to be used, the drumsticks, 



CARVING. 



6i 



thighs, and wings can be taken off at the dotted hnes, and as 
much more cut as ia desired, according to the directions given 
for carving fowls, 

GAME-BIRBS. 

The wild ducks are carved as shown in the engraving of 
roast ducks if they are large ; if small, half the entire breast 
is cut out in one piece, and served to one guest. The re- 




fioast Woodcock garnished. 

mainder of the birds is used for ragouts and purees. The 
smaller birds, such as wild pigeons and squabs, quail, wood- 
cocks, and the various snipe, are served entire. Sometimes, 
if woodcock are very large, one cut may be made down the 
middle of the bird from i to 2. The toast under woodcock 
is always served with the bird. The garnish of the dish 




Roast Pheasant. 



here shown is parsley and blood-oranges : there is no more 
acceptable garnish for birds than sub-acid oranges. 

The large game-birds, such as pheasants, partridge, 



62 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



grouse, moor-fowl, and prairie-chicken, are carved from the 
breast when they are large, and quartered or halved when of 
medium size. The cut of a pheasant will give a good idea 
of the carving of the different birds : the pheasant repre- 
sented here is larded ; the head, neck, and tail are added 
after the bird is cooked ; and it is served on toast, garnished 
with lemon and parsley. 

MEATS. 

The carving of joints of meat is much simpler than poul- 
try, once the position of the bones is understood. It is 

// 




Leg of Mutton. 

often possible to remove many of the bones of meat before 
cooking it ; and this is desirable on the score of economy, 
as well as for convenience in carving. 

The first picture represents a leg of mutton cut through 
the choice part. Make the first cuts in the direction of the 
lines marked i and 2, and then follow the dotted lines : this 
will give slices of alternate fat and lean. When this does 
not afford enough for serving, other slices can be taken from 
the outer side of the leg, cutting around the bone in the 
same way. 

MUTTON BONED AND STUFFED. 

Both the leg and shoulder of mutton can be used very 
advantageously if the bone is removed, and the joint filled 



CARVING. 



63 



with a good stuffing before it is cooked. The accompany- 
ing cut shows a loin and leg, boned, stuffed, and baked, 







(a#c: 



teg 0/ Mutton boned. 



"5^ 



with a garnish of small balls of turnip boiled. The dotted 
lines show the direction of the first cuts : the final cut, from 
I to 2, releases the slices. Or the joint can be served by 
carving it directly from the large end, entirely down through 
the meat. 

SADDLE OF MUTTON LARDED. 

The saddle, or double loin, of mutton, is carved in a line 




Saddle of Mutton larded. 

with the back-bone, from i to 2, the knife nmning down 
through the lean quite to the bone. When the saddle is 



64 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



very large, these slices may be cut in two parts. The fat is 
to be cut in the direction of the dotted lines at 3. 

ROUND OF BEEF. 

The fresh round of beef closely filled with pieces of fat 
salt pork, or with a rich stuffing inserted with the grain, is 
carved across the grain, downward from one end, if it is 
placed on the platter as shown in the annexed cut. When 
the grain of the meat is presented lying upward from the 




Beef a la mode. 



platter, the cuts are then made across the surface. A small 
slice of fat is generally cut with each slice of lean. The 
garnish of the beef is of boiled vegetables. The dish is 
often called beef a la mode, although it should be called a 
la daube. 

SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 

The sirloin of beef, which is the portion cut into the beef- 
steaks called "porterhouse," is carved in the direction of 
the dotted lines which range between the figures i and 2 ; the 
tenderloin, ox filet, is carved in the dotted lines from 3 to 4, 
after the joint has been raised on the fork, with the bone 
resting on the platter, so as to permit the knife to enter the 
meat from the bottom. A small piece of fat is served with 



CARVING. 



65 



each slice of meat. When the bone has been removed, and 
the sirloin rolled before it is cooked, it is laid upon the 




Sirloin of Beef. 

platter on one end, and an even slice is taken across the 
grain of the upper surface. 



RIBS OR SIRLOIN OF BEEF BONED. 

When beef is boned and rolled tightly before it is cooked, 
it can be carved to much better advantage than when the 



^. 



^ 







Ribs or Sirloin boned. 



bones remain in it. Either the ribs or the sirloin can be 
treated in this way. A sharp, thin-bladed knife is used to 
remove the bones ; and the meat is then rolled and tied com- 



66 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



pactly ; after it is cooked, the string used to secure it is re- 
moved, and the meat served with a garnish of vegetables if 
they are desired. The accompanying picture shows a gar- 
nish of white turnips cut to resemble cups, and filled with 
green peas after both are cooked. The cylindrical pieces of 
vegetables may be made of carrots or turnips, and the little 
balls of potatoes. The two ornamental skewers at the ends 
are called hatclcts. The meat is to be carved from the top 
downward, in the direction of the dotted lines from i to 2, 
either to the bottom or to the cross-line : in the latter case, 
the garnish need not be disturbed until the entire roll is 
carved. 

BEEF-TONGUES GARNISHED. 

Smoked tongues are most palatable when served with a 
garnish, which may include truffles as shown in the engrav- 
ing. The truffles are cut in long, sharp cubes, and inserted 







Beef-Tongues garnished. 



in quenelles, or large oval pieces of poached forcemeat : the 
smaller quenelles are made of plain forcemeat. A plainer 
garnish can be made of different vegetables. The upper 
part of the tongues can be can'ed in the direction of the 
dotted lines, between i and 2, or cut entirely through from 
the tip to the root as preferred. When the tongues are served 
cold, the vegetables must be suitably chosen for the garnish, 
and the quenelles highly seasoned and free from grease. 



CARVING. 



^7 



ROAST HAM. 

The choice portion of a ham Hes between the Hnes i and 
2 in the accompanying engraving. In carving, the cuts are 
made from the upper surface, towards the bone in the centre 
of the ham. After the ham is cooked, the skin is removed 




Roast Ham, 

from the greater part of it, and the end of the bone is 
trimmed off and ornamented with a paper frill. The engrav- 
ing represents a hot roast ham garnished with hot string- 
beans,- rissoles or little meat turnovers fried, and boiled 
vegetables cut with a small pear-shaped scoop. A cold ham 
would not have the vegetable garnish. 



COLD HAM WITH ASPIC JELLY. 

The accompanying engraving represents a cold roast or 
boiled ham garnished with aspic jelly. It can be carved in 
the same way as the hot ham, or in thin slices from the end, 
following the dotted lines from i to 2. The oval stand upon 
which the ham rests is usually made of wood, and covered 
with white paper, or a thin coating of hard white fat or of 
aspic jelly, applied with a brush while melted, and allowed 
to cool before placing the ham. 



68 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 




Cold Ham with Aspic Jcllij. 
HAND OR LEG OF YOUNG PORK. 

The hand of pork consists of the foot and leg of a young 
pig. The engraving shows the hand boned, stufifed, and 
served with a garnish of boiled sprouts or " greens." The 
carving can be done according to the dotted lines, or by be- 




Hand of Pork. 

ginning at the upper end, and cutting directly down to the 
dish : this gives a portion of the meat and the forcemeat, 
and the garnish can be served at will. 

SADDLE OF VENISON. 

Venison, when served as a saddle, is carved somewhat like 
mutton, although the two joints shown in the pictures are 
trimmed differently before cooking, and the saddle of mutton 
is larded. The dotted lines from i to 2 show the position 
of the best portion of the lean : the choice fat lies near the 



CARVING. 



69 



kidneys, and is reached by cutting through the thin part at 
the end of the ribs between the figures 3 and 4. Currant- 
jelly is usually served with venison, and the vegetable gar- 
nish is of turnips, string-beans, and potato-balls : cauliflower 




Saddle of Venison. 

is a good accompaniment for venison ; and currant-sauce, 
currant-jelly sauce, vinegar and claret sauces, and venison- 
gravy are sent to the table with it. 

LARDED SADDLE OF VENISON. 

A saddle of venison designed for larding is more closely 
trimmed, and cut a little shorter, than the ordinary saddle. 




Larded Saddle of Venison. 



It can be carved in the same way, from i to 2 ; or slices 
may be cut do-wnward in the line from 3 to 4, as loin chops 
are cut, through both fat and lean. The garnish consists of 



70 



PKAC7VCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



string- Deans, small cups of turnips filled with green peas, or 
stuffed artichoke bottoms, and truffles. All venison should 
be ser\-ed very hot. 

LARDED SHOULDER OF VENISON. 

When the shoulder of venison is larded, it is usually carved 
through the larded portion in the direction of the dotted 
lines running between the figures i and 2, It is sometimes 
boned and stuffed, and then the carving may be downward 
from 3 towards 4, through the entire joint, especially if many 




persons are to be served. A plain shoulder of venison is 
carved like a shoulder of mutton. The garnish of the 
larded shoulder is stoned olives and turned vesretables. 



BARDED HARE. 

The accompanying cut represents a hare dressed and 
placed on a spit for roasting, after being barded, or partly 
covered with a large slice of fat salt pork. The strings 
which confine the pork are removed before the hare is 
sensed, but the pork remains upon it. When the hare is 
cooked with forcemeat, or served with a garnish, a portion 
of either and of the pork used for barding is to be served. 



CARVIXG. 



71 



Barded and larded hares are preferable to those which are 
cooked plain, because the hare is naturally dry meat : a good 




Barded Hare. 



sauce or gravy should always be served with hare. The 
carving of barded and larded hare is similar. 



LARDED HARE. 

The dotted lines in the following engraving of a larded 
hare will serve also to illustrate the carving of a barded hare. 
The larded hare is garnished with small birds barded and 
roasted, and with fried parsley. To carve a portion of 
the hare when there are a few persons to be served, insert the 
point of a sharp knife where the union of the head and body 
is indicated by the line marked i, and cut along the side of 
the back-bone toward the line at the top of the thigh marked 
2 ; then follow the dotted lines marked 3, from the middle 



72 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



of the back down to the under part of the hare ; run the 
knife under the meat, close to the back-bone and the ribs, 
and cut off the pieces ; serve a bird with each one, and 
some of the sauce, and the forcemeat if tlie hare is stuffed. 
When the entire hare is to be carved, first take off the shoul- 
ders, cutting from 4 to 5, and then insert the knife between 
the leg and the body ; bend the shoulder away from it ; 
the few remaining bits of flesh which hold the shoulder to the 
body can then be severed ; the thighs can then be removed 




Larded Hare. 



in the same way, cutting from 6 to 7 ; next the head can be 
cut off, following the line from i to 8 ; the entire body can 
then be split down one side of the back-bone, from i to 6, 
and both sides of the ribs divided along the lines marked 3. 
The head is a favorite portion with epicures, the ears and 
brains being especially prized : it is canned by cutting apart 
the upper and lower jaws at the line marked 9 ; the upper 
part of the head can then be cut open from 10 to 11. A 
medium-size hare will ser\'e six or eight persons. Forcemeat- 
balls, pickled gherkins, lemon, and currant-jelly, are the 
plainer garnishes for roast hare. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 

WE are all so unconsciously affected by surroundings, 
that a homelike room at once impresses us with an 
indefinable sense of comfort and welcome. A pretty aspect 
inspires us with cheer; a gloomy one depresses. Of all 
rooms in the house, the dining-room should be the cheeriest, 
because it is there that all the members of the family are 
most likely to congregate. No matter how widely the inter- 
ests and occupations of father, mother, and children may 
separate them at other times of the day, the fact remains 
that at least one-fifth of their waking hours will probably be 
spent at the table. The intent business- man may find scant 
time for the ordinary social pleasures which may attract the 
other members of his family to the sitting-room, library, or 
drawing-room ; but to the dining-room he must go if he 
ever lives at home. And for this reason, if for no other, 
when all the apartments of a house cannot be made equally 
attractive, preference should be given to this, the one most 
used in common. 

Many dining-rooms that we remember are furnished with 
dark wood ; the walls are gloomy, or covered with dismal 
pictures of dead game and fish ; the windows hung with stuff 
curtains, and the outlook is upon stone walls or paved courts. 
The ideal dining-room is bright with sun- or lamp-light ; the 
window-draperies are such as to temper but not exclude air 



74 rKACT/CAf. AM ERIC AX COOk'J-.RY. 

and sunshine ; the pictures are of fruit or still life with bright 
colors ; the chairs are comfortable, and the temperature a 
pleasant medium between heat and cold. The most modest 
establishment admits these possibilities, and from them the 
plainest repast gains a charm. Even where space is so lim- 
ited that one room must answer both for the preparation and 
service of food, neatness and order can be maintained ; and 
a litde attention to the principles of ventilation will insure 
that freshness of the atmosphere which is so essential to the 
enjoyment of food. 

A VERY SIMPLE DINING-ROOM. 

Let us take an instance from the simplest effort at house> 
keeping; say, that the kitchen and dining-room are one. 
The floor may be bare ; indeed, a wooden floor, clean, or 
stained to imitate dark wood, with one or more rugs, — which 
may be of rag-carpeting, drugget, or finer goods, — is prefer- 
able to a carpeted floor. For the same reason, wooden or 
bamboo blinds, or thin curtains of linen or cotton, are better 
than woollen window-draperies, because all woollen fabrics 
retain odors persistently. The walls can be clean, if there 
are no pictures ; and if the chairs are of the straightest out- 
line, they can be made comfortable with inexpensive cush- 
ions. There is no condition of life so lowly as to preclude 
the possibility of neatness at the table ; if there is no linen, 
the table itself can be clean ; if the supply of dishes is lim- 
ited, it is far more kindly and gracious for the wife or daugh- 
ter to rise from the table, and wash the plates and cutlery, 
than to allow meat and pudding to be eaten with the same 
appliances. When there is plenty of crockery, the trouble 
is slight compared with the subsequent comfort, if one of the 
family rises to bring clean plates and kniv-es to replace the 
soiled ones ; and the dignity of the most charming daughter 
of the house could suffer no detraction if she were to remove 



THE DTXIXG-KOOM AXD ITS FITTINGS. 7$ 

the crumbs from the cloth before placing the dessert upon 
it. A hungry man, pressed for time, perhaps hot and labor- 
stained, comes home for dinner ; if he finds a freshly laid 
table awaiting him, with a neat little wife who has taken a 
few moments to tidy herself after cooking, ready to give him 
a hot and savory dinner, and looking as if she had not taken 
too much trouble to prepare either the dinner or herself for 
his coming, the chances are that he will feel an involuntary 
inclination to freshen himself before beginning his meal : if, 
on the other hand, he is greeted with the unwelcome sight 
of a disorderly table, ill-cooked food served in slovenly fash- 
ion, and a frowzy wife without a suggestion about her of the 
trim girl who first attracted his fancy, no one can blame him 
if he throws himself into his chair unwashed, bolts his food 
surlily, and hurries away from such a foretaste of purgatory. 

Just here a bit of the philosophy of common life fits ad- 
mirably, — the adaptability of persons to circumstances ; the 
ever-recurring forbearance with the individual idiosyncrasies 
of different members of the family ; consideration for per- 
sonal traits and peculiarities. Every newly married wife, 
and some old ones, would do well to heed this little com- 
mentary on careless living. No matter how limited the 
household fittings, they can be kept clean : and, above all 
things, personal cleanliness is a matter of personal choice. 
Take the dinner — any family dinner may be served in the 
plainest way, and accepted by its eaters as a good dinner ; 
but with the addition of a little care in dishing and serving, 
it may assume the aspect of a holiday feast. One of my 
Syracuse friends, when considering the merits of rival candi- 
dates for the supremacy of her kitchen, had this qualification 
urged upon her : " Mem, I have lived with Mrs. W. on James 
Street, and she always has her dishes varnished.'" Of course 
the girl intended to say " garnished." Think for a moment 
of the difference. Our bill of fare may be plain,— roast 



^6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

mutton with mashed potatoes, a dish of sliced tomatoes, 
and cups of custard or hlaficmange : that is a very simple 
dinner. By putting around the mutton on the dish a few 
green leaves of parsley, celery, or watercress, the plain dish 
is made ornamental ; the mashed potatoes can be heaped 
lightly on a platter, and browned in a hot oven, before serv- 
ing them ; the sliced tomatoes can be arranged in even 
circles in a pretty dish or salad-bowl, with a few green 
sprigs of celery, parsley, or cress, in the centre ; and the 
custard or bla?icma?ige, after being turned from the cups, can 
be ornamented by cutting a little hollow in the top of each, 
with a teaspoon, and filling it with a piece of any brightly 
colored jelly. With a clean cloth and napkins, and brightly 
polished cutlery and glass, the plain dinner takes on the 
aspect of a feast ; and all these little embellishments are 
within the reach of very modest households. 

DECORATIVE ART THE REFLEX OF NATURE. 

Whether the family resources are narrow, or admit of some 
indulgence of taste in the choice of decorations in living- 
rooms, one rule should be followed : Do not encourage 
shams : let every thing be genuine. Do not paint wood to 
imitate bronze, or plaster to look like stone. Follow nature, 
and good taste will not be offended. Do not substitute the 
grotesque for the graceful, or make a sacrifice of comfort to 
carry out an idea. Remember that • there is an eternal fit- 
ness in things. Comfort and taste can easily be combined. 
We may trust human nature to suggest the former : the latter 
IS the fruit of unrecognized passing influences. The chance 
glimpse of a beautiful picture, the warmth of color flashing 
from some luxuriant country garden or glowing mass of 
flowers in a florist's window, the waving of sun-lit branches, 
the shifting panorama of the sky, — all feed our artistic in- 
spirations. From art and nature, culture comes to the fancy 



THE DTXhYG-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 7/ 

ardent enough to admit its impressions. And the degree 
of culture possible to individuals shows itself in the homes 
they make for themselves. The family living-room may be 
plain in its appointments ; but there is no reason why every 
one of its uncomfortable angles should not be filled with soft, 
restful cushions. The children leave traces of their growing- 
up in it. The faces of the old people who have there lived 
out their lives look down from its walls. The atmosphere is 
pregnant with personalities, if we will but feel them ; so all 
these homely places are sacred to sweet and tender memo- 
ries. We should never seek to change the aspect of our 
homes when we open them to our friends, if we want them 
to feel at home with us. We may sweep and freshen, if we 
will, for cleanliness and order are the first of home virtues ; 
but we need not mask our houses any more than we would 
ourselves when we play the host. Good cheer and pleasant 
welcome, such as ought always to rule, are the soul of 
hospitality. 

SIDEBOARDS AND TABLES. 

In fitting the dining-room, its capacities should be studied. 
Unless there is ample space, no superfluous ornamentation 
should be attempted : all desirable room should be given to 
the necessary furniture. A movable extension-table for the 
centre of the room, and a side-table for carving and another 
for extra table furniture, will be needed, in addition to a 
buffet or sideboard. This carving-table can be made with 
side or corner supports holding shelves, and mounted on 
rollers so that it can be brought near the dining-table when 
it is required. The next two cuts are taken from Dubois, and 
show a movable table and hot-closet combined, with folding 
door upon one side, which can be opened in order to expose 
the dishes to the heat of the fire, and doors at the front 
through which the dishes can be arranged before the fire. 

The sideboard may be of any fancied design which affords 



/S THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS I'lTTINGS. 




Front of Hot-closet, with Doors. 



PRACTICAL A ME NIC AN COOKERY. "jg 

the convenience of shelves for plate and table ornaments, 
and drawers and under-closets for linen, cutlery, plate, and 
fine glass-ware. The drawers used for plate, and the under- 
closets, should be provided with locks. A massive old- 
fashioned sideboard of great beauty was arched in the centre 
of the lower part, to afford space for a carved wine-cooler of 
the same general design, provided with a shelved compart- 
ment for salads and cold dessert- dishes. The kettle-drum 
tables for afternoon teas are small and portable, with a double 
shelf fixed under the top, midway of the legs, to hold extra 
cups and plates. But these tables belong in the parlor or 
reception-rooms, where refreshments are passed upon trays, 
and either held by the guests or placed upon some conven- 
ient stand. There should be several such tables in a room. 

When a looking-glass or mirror is used, either as part of 
a sideboard or for wall decoration in the dining-room, care 
should be taken that no rays of sunlight strike it ; because 
their chemical action will destroy the perfect distribution of 
the amalgam with which the reverse of the glass is coated, 
and so cause an appearance of granulation or crystallization 
upon the surface of the mirror. 

DECORATIONS OF CHINA AND PLATE. 

When fine china or old pieces of plate are used in deco- 
rating the dinmg-room, they should be disposed above the 
doors and fireplace, on shelves or brackets. The over- 
mantel can be made a beautiful part of dining-room decora- 
tion ; and a railed bracket can be run around the entire room 
just above the head, after the fashion shown in the drawings 
given elsewhere of the dining-room in which the table is 
laid. 

In the summer, when the open fire is not needed, the 
fireplace can be hidden by a curtain, run upon a rod set 
under the edge of the mantle-shelf; this curtain should not 



80 THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 







Back of Hot-closet, facing the Fire. 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. «I 

be made of the double-faced canton flannel, or fashion- 
cloth, because the material is very inflammable ; any other 
fancy woollen fabric will answer the purpose. 

CHAIRS FOR THE DINING-ROOM. 

Dining-chairs should be rather lightly constructed, so that 
they can be moved with ease ; they can be made absolutely 
comfortable with practicable cushions, and small hassocks 
can be placed under the table for additional comfort. 

WINDOWS AND DRAPERIES. 

The arrangement of windows in the dining-room deserves 
attention. Not only the aspect of the room, but its health- 
fulness, depends upon the free admission of light and air. 
The use of any other material than woollen has already been 
advocated for window-hangings ; the coolest for summer 
are bamboo or Venetian blinds, movable at will upon cords 
worked from inside the windows. An improvement upon 
the outside window-blind opening from the middle lifts the 
two blinds from their hinges, unites them in the centre, and 
then, by hinges at the top of the casement, lowers or raises 
them at will ; a very simple form of movable cloth awning 
described by the author in "Harper's Bazar" of Sept. 22, 
1883, answers the same purpose; and either contrivance 
replaces the more expensive regulation window-awning. 

The East-Indian devices called punkahs and tatties — 
thick screens of woven fragrant rushes, hung before doors 
or windows, and saturated with water — cool the air of the 
room perceptibly. A woollen blanket, or even a thick sheet, 
suspended in such openings, and kept wet, will lower the 
interior temperature from 7° to 10° Fah., even in sultry 
summer weather. In any case, this fact is to be remem- 
bered : of all materials, woollen will the longest retain 
moisture and odor, and therefore is the least desirable for 



82 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

draping dining-room windows or doors, unless they are to be 
kept wet to cool the air. 

When the outlook of dining-room windows is upon blank 
walls and paved yards, the unsightly prospect may be hidden 
without excluding light, by using Madras-muslin curtains, of 
any similar opatjue drapery which permits the free passage 
of light and air. Figured lace, cheese-cloth, sheer nettings 
with dried fern or autumn leaves gummed upon them, will 
serve this purpose. Window-glass may be made opatjue by 
patting it gently in every part with a piece of soft putty 
enclosed in a sheer muslin fabric, and then drying the sur- 
face of the glass ; of course this will not admit of washing. 
There are many pretty patented devices of semi-transparent 
imitations of stained glass, which can be applied to ordinary 
glass windows when the expense of genuine stained or painted 
glass cannot be incurred. When there is both money and 
space at will, there, can be no more appropriate or enjoyable 
window-decoration than that of stained or painted glass. 
The infinite variety in form and coloring offered in artistic 
and lovely designs makes an embarrassment of riches in this 
form of decoration. 

LIGHT IN THE DINING-ROOM. 

If it is possible to admit sunshine to the dining-room, it 
should be done ; at least, plenty of light should be secured. 
In California, where the climate permits open windows, and 
where the houses are generally detached, the fashion prevails 
of building bay-windows to catch from all points the sun- 
shine and wandering airs that charm the senses in all seasons. 
When location permits, the windows of the dining-room 
should reflect harmonies of light and color. In the country 
this is possible, as also is the delight of an out-door dining- 
room upon the piazza or lawn ; but in cities the dependence 
for such accessories must be placed upon neutral-tinted walls 



THE DIAUXG-KOOM AiXD ITS F/rT/iVGS. 83 

and draperies, enlivened by freshly colored pictures, the light 
of open fires, and the soft colors of candle-flame and shaded 
lamps. If there can be only one open fire in the house, 
put it in the dining-room. One of the most acceptable 
effects of light is obtainable from the use of colored tissue 
paper for lamp-shades. The loveliest remembered one was 
seen in a delightful Southern home, — a lamp entirely hidden 
in a mass of pink roses, so artistically concealed that real 
sunlight seemed shining through a cloud of roses. These 
flower lamp-shades can be made by any deft fingers. They 
are quite safe to use until the paper becomes very dry and 
crisp, nearly charred by the heat of the lamp ; then they 
should be renewed. Candles and lamps give a softer and 
more acceptable light than gas ; and there are now so many 
devices for making both available, that it has come to be a 
matter of choice in their use ; they are specially effective at the 
dinner-table. 

DINING-ROOM FLOORS. 

The fact has been mentioned in connection with window- 
draperies, that all woollen fabrics attract and retain odors, 
especially those arising from heated fat ; for this reason, as 
well as upon the score of cleanliness, a movable carpet or 
rug is better for dining-room use than one nailed to the 
floor. Even in ordinary grades of carpeting, good colors 
are now available, and can be so combined that centre and 
border present an acceptable appearance. The rug can be 
shaken often, and hung for several hours in the air and sun- 
light, while the floor of the dining-room is being cleaned. 
When rugs are used, the margin of floors exposed should 
always be in good condition. If the wood of the floor is 
fine-grained, and the planks are neatly fitted together, it may 
simply be cleaned frequently, dry-scrubbing with sawdust 
being the best method ; or it can be kept oiled or polished. 
When the wood is inferior, or imperfectly joined, the irregu- 



84 i'KACTJCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

larities should be ])]aned off, the nail-holes and cracks filled 
in with putty, and the floor subsecjuently painted or stained. 
Good methods are subjoined for producing all these different 
effects, together with hints for keeping the floors in good 
order after they are colored. When there is a smooth, hard 
floor of natural wood, it can be kept in perfect condition by 
dusting it daily, either with a soft, flexible brush, or a soft 
woollen cloth. The cloth may be used in the hand, or fas- 
tened to a long wooden handle to obviate the necessity for 
stooping. Linen and cotton fabrics are apt to leave lint 
upon the boards. In addition to the daily dusting, a weekly 
dry-scrubbing with sawdust is preferable to washing with 
water ; even for varnished or painted floors, sawdust scrub- 
bing is better than the use of water, which destroys the gloss 
of the surface, and gradually impairs its integrity by more 
or less absorption of moisture, especially in damp or foggy 
places. 

SAWDUST SCRUBBING. 

Use clean, dry sawdust ; scatter it by the handful upon 
that part of the floor farthest from the door, covering three 
or four square feet of the floor ; then with a stiff new scrub- 
bing-brush, set with short bristles, scnib the floor with the 
motion used in scrubbing with, water ; if any spot is un- 
usually soiled, scrub a little harder over it, using extra saw- 
dust. When the entire floor has been scrubbed, sweep up 
the sawdust, and burn it, and dust off the floor before 
putting down the rugs. 

DRY SCRUBBING WITH SAND 

Fine white sea-sand can be used upon unpainted floors, 
in the same way as the sawdust, but is not so perfect a puri- 
fier ; the only advantage is that the sand can be washed and 
dried, and used repeatedly. The same process is to be fol- 
lowed as with the sawdust. 



THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 85 



HOW TO PREPARE FLOORS FOR OILING AND STAINING. 

When the surface of the floor is uneven, it must be planed 
down, or rubbed smooth with coarse sandpaper, any pro- 
jecting nails being first removed. The nail-holes and small 
cracks must be filled with putty : the large cracks may be 
filled in with strips of wood. When the floor is quite even, 
it should be washed clean, and allowed to dry thoroughly ; 
then dust it, and finish it by any chosen process. The vehi- 
cle chosen for finishing the floor should be mixed in a rather 
shallow open basin or bucket admitting the free use of the 
brushes or rags used in applying the stain or polish. There 
should be two rags or brushes, one for applying the coloring, 
and the other for rubbing it well into the crevices of the 
wood : a small rag or brush is required for the corners and 
along the wainscoting. Begin to work in the corner farthest 
from the door. Do not have any open doors or windows if 
there is any dust flying. Brush or rub with the grain of the 
wood ; make irregular stops, not straight defined lines across 
the floor ; when the wood of the floor is well-grained, have 
the color mixed thin enough for the grain to show through 
it, and use strength to rub the color well into the grain of 
the wood. Soft woods will absorb more stain than hard 
ones ; but a fair proportion is a quart of stain to sixteen 
square yards of flooring, and half a pint of varnish to pro- 
tect the stain. After applying one mixture, the brushes must 
be thoroughly washed in warm water, and dried before using 
them for another ; one brush should be flat and wide for the 
open floor, and another small for the corners. 

OILING HARD -WOOD FLOORS. • 

A perfectly smooth hard-wood floor can be kept in good 
order by daily dusting, and a weekly wiping with a soft cloth 
wrung out of warm water ; the use of soap is to be avoided, 



86 PRACTICAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

because it would neutralize the oily coating of the wood, and 
so destroy the effect sought for. In ordinary households, 
twice a year is often enough to oil a good floor. The floor 
should be of hard wood, made quite smooth, as directed in 
a preceding paragraph, and thoroughly washed and dried. 
Use boiled linseed-oil, applying it hot, as directed previously, 
either with stiff brushes or soft rags, and rubbing it well into 
the grain of the wood. When the floor is made of light- 
colored wood, a little ground burnt umber or burnt sienna 
may be mixed with the oil for the purpose of staining it, 
before applying it to the floor. 

POLISHING HARD -WOOD FLOORS. 

To make the polishing mixture, put into a basin or bowl 
a pound and a half of yellow beeswax, five ounces of resin 
powdered, and one pint of turpentine. Set the basin in a pan 
of hot water, and stir the polish over the fire until thoroughly 
blended. Remember that all these ingredients are highly 
inflammable, and guard against their taking fire. When the 
polish is smoothly mixed, cool it ; if, when it is cold, it is 
thicker than cold cream, stir in a little more turpentine until 
it is of that consistency. See that the hard-wood floor is 
perfectly clean, dry, and free from dust ; then apply the 
polish to it with a soft woollen cloth, rubbing it well into 
the grain of the wood ; after the polish is applied to the floor, 
rub it very hard with a polishing-brush, which can be found 
at the house- furnishing shops. In Europe the final polish, 
after using the brush thoroughly, is given with a piece of soft 
green baize. Hard-wood floors require poUshing two or 
three times a week. 

STAINING WOODEN FLOOHS. 

The floor must first be carefully prepared according to the 
directions given earlier in this chapter. The stain can be so 



THE DIXIXG-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 8/ 

mixed as to imitate any ordinary wood, the coloring matter 
being sold at the paint and oil shops. A good brown stain 
can be made from burnt umber and sienna, the prevailing 
tint being made to match the tone of the room, and enough 
coloring-matter being used to properly darken the wood. 
Mix the color with one pint of turpentine and one quart of 
raw linseed-oil, and apply it as already directed. The stain 
should be liquid enough to run readily ; the addition of some 
special dryer will hasten the completion of the process. If 
a stained floor is sized and varnished, it will keep its color 
longer than if simply stained. Parts of the floor most used 
can be re-stained without going over the entire surface. A 
little raw linseed-oil rubbed into the worn spots renews their 
brightness. The floor can be dusted frequently, and washed 
about once a week with a soft cloth wet in warm water. 

SIZING STAINED FLOORS. 

After the stain is quite dry on the floor, put a pound of 
size in a basin with a pint of cold water, and melt it by gen- 
tle heat ; apply it with a flat brush ; if the size froths whil^ 
it is being put upon the floor, dilute it with a little warm 
water ; let the size dry entirely before applying the varnish. 

VARNISHING STAINED FLOORS. 

Use the best varnish ; apply it evenly and liberally, with a 
flat brush, and then let the floor become quite dry before 
walking upon it. About once a week wipe the varnished 
floor with a soft cloth dipped in warm water. 

BLACK VARNISH FOR WOOD. 

Use enough ivory-black, or prepared liquid black, to color 
good varnish, and apply a thin coating to the wood. Pre- 
pared liquid black can be used to stain or ebonize wood 
without the addition of varnish when the brilliant black sur- 



88 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

face is not desired. Blackened wood is cleaned by dusting 
and wiping with a cloth wet in warm water. 

PAINTED FLOORS. 

For the brilliant yellow color of painted floors, use three 
pounds of yellow ochre, powdered, to three quarts of soft 
water, and three ounces of common glue. Dissolve the glue 
in the water by gentle heat ; then take the liquid from the 
fire, stir in the paint, and apply it at once to a clean dry 
floor, using a large flat brush. When the paint is dry, put 
on a thin coat of boiled linseed-oil, and let the floor dry be- 
fore walking upon it. When a light lemon-color is desired, 
use white glue, and two pounds of white lead powdered in 
place of two of the three pounds of ochre. Paint the floor 
on a clear, bright day. 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE DINNER-TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENTS. 

THE extension-table has already been referred to as 
desirable, because its size can be suited to the num- 
ber of guests. Usually this sort of table is comparatively 
long and narrow, and does not admit of as acceptable deco- 
ration as the round or square table. Then, too, at a long 
table the guests are less favorably placed than at either of 
the others. A perfectly appointed square table is pictured 
in the frontispiece, reproduced from the dining-room of a 
Euclid-avenue house in Cleveland. The first glance will 
show its admirable arrangement. The space included in 
the area of the apartment and the table permits the placing 
of six, eight, or ten guests, the ideal numbers for enjoyable 
dinners, the less number giving variety enough to obviate 
sameness, and the greater not being too large for perfect 
sociability. The breadth of the table permits the distin- 
guished guests to sit side by side with the host and hostess, 
and affords room for effective placing of the necessary 
table appointments, specified in detail a few pages farther 
on. Delicate napery, flowers enough to add color to the 
glitter of silver and the sheen of glass, dainty receptacles for 
salt and pepper, and light candelabra make up a perfectly 
enticing picture : such surroundings would tempt an ancho- 
rite to feast. 

This table is laid for the American form of service ; the 

89 



90 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

various dishes composing the dinner being placed upon the 
table in their proper succession, as will be hereafter indi- 
cated. 

TABLECLOTHS. 

In choosing table-linen, it should be remembered that 
heavy material wears longer than the lighter fabrics, and 
presents in the draping much more effective lines ; it does 
not rumple or crease so readily as sheer material ; it needs 
but little starch when it is done up, and is therefore more 
pleasant for the user. After a certain point, the price of 
heavy fabrics is not greater than that of fine goods ; but if 
it were, the difference would be warranted to an economical 
buyer by the relative results. When from personal prefer- 
ence a very fine, light kind of napery is used, there should 
be a thick under-cloth : indeed, the under-cloth is always 
desirable for the protection of the table, as well as for the 
improvement in the appearance of the cloth ; heavy canton 
flannel makes the best under-cloths. The tablecloth proper 
should be of wash-material. If the table is large, the cloth 
may be made in several sections, for convenience in chan- 
ging it during the dinner, and in washing it. A very effective 
and inexpensive cloth may be made in this way : Make an 
openwork centre-piece of any pretty appliqu6 or insertion 
over some faint shade of wash-satine, following the shape 
of the table ; outside the centre-piece, and reaching from 
its edges to a point about a quarter of a yard below the 
edge of the table, have a section of the tablecloth proper ; 
then a wide insertion, another piece of the cloth, and an 
edge of lace. The border of the cloth upon the laid table 
in the engraving will give an idea of this arrangement. 

The use of lace upon table-linen was of early Italian 
origin, and was introduced into F^ngland before Shakspeare's 
time ; so that we are only reviving a pretty fashion in elabo- 
ratin"' our table-sen-ice. 



THE DINNER- TABLE. 9 1 

When the effect of brighter color is desired, a strip of 
plush, velvet, or satin, edged with lace, may be laid the en- 
tire length of the table in the centre, over the linen cloth. 
When it is desirable to increase the light in the dining-room, 
strips of mirror-glass, with border-glasses for flowers, are 
used ; or their edges are concealed by a thick line of cut 
flowers. A pretty effect is produced by using large crystal 
bowls filled with cracked ice and ferns, or blocks of ice bed- 
ded in moss and ferns ; these blocks of ice may be made to 
hold shell-fish, prawns, crayfish, or dishes of mayonnaise, 
aspic, melons, or iced puddings. Some provision should be 
made for the dripping of the ice so that the cloth may not 
be spoiled. 

When embroidery is desired, the outline of the woven 
design of the cloth can be reproduced with -gold or silver 
thread or gold-colored embroidery-silk : these effects are 
Oriental. Clusters of flowers and fruit in natural colors are 
embroidered upon heavy momie-cloth or huckabuck, and 
the cloths are bordered with deep knotted fringe ; some of 
the South Kensington designs for this kind of work are 
lovely. These cloths, with napkins to match, are suitable for 
noon breakfasts, luncheons, and high teas. A beautiful de- 
sign is that of strawberry leaves and fruit, of natural size 
and color, embroidered with silk floss upon heavy all-linen 
momie-cloth. Colored table-linen of good quality is always 
expensive, and the fact that very few colors retain their 
freshness after repeated washings makes it comparatively 
undesirable. Fruit-napkins are not too expensive to permit 
being put aside when they begin to fade. White linen is 
always in good taste, and color can be given by the use of 
fancy china, glass, and flowers ; besides, white linen can 
always be fresh, an important consideration because so 
much of the enjoyment of the repast depends upon this. 
If the first glance at the table shows a spotless cloth and 



92 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

shining glass and silver, we involuntarily anticipate a good 
dinner. In households where it is necessary to economize, 
it would be better to buy plenty of less expensive linen, and 
spend extra time in doing it up, than to have a scant supply 
of fine material. Untidy table-linen is as intolerable as it 
is inexcusable : until the water-courses run dry, and there is 
no more sunshine and fresh air, there will be no good 
excuse for soiled tablecloths and napkins. Better a bare 
wooden table perfectly clean, than a creased and spotted 
cloth ; and we might take a lesson in neatness from the 
Celestials, and substitute their paper napkins, which are 
used once and then burned, rather than omit to supply fresh 
ones at least once a day. This is a point too often neglected 
in well-to-do households. 

TABLE-NAPKINS. 

When there is an abundance of table-linen, different- 
sized napkins are used at the various meals. Dinner-nap- 
kins are the largest, and in quality should be heavy enough 
to obviate the necessity for using starch ; of this the least 
quantity should be employed in doing up table-linen which 
will insure smoothness after ironing. At some very English 
dinners, the napkins are changed when the Roman punch 
comes on, a small, rather fine one being placed before each 
guest with the punch ; with the game, comes another large 
one ; and with the dessert, a soft finer fabric of medium size. 
At ordinary dinners, the change of napkins is made when 
the dessert is served ; when the special dessert-napkin is 
used, it should be a little smaller and finer than the dinner- 
napkin, which is removed with the second course. The 
fruit-napkin is laid upon the finger-bowl or on the plate 
which contains it, a small fancy napkin, or doily, being 
directly under the bowl ; when the finger-bowl is lifted from 
the dessert-plate, the doily is placed under it on the table- 



THE DINNER-TABLE. 93 

cloth, a little to the left of the dessert-plate. These doilies 
admit of many fanciful embroideries, outlines, and sketches 
made with a fine pen and indelible ink. 

For formal breakfasts, large dinner-napkins and finger- 
.bowls are used ; for standing breakfasts, the usual breakfast- 
napkins, but no finger-bowls. Ordinary breakfast-napkins 
are smaller than those used for dinner : they may be quite 
plain, or bear the etched or embroidered initial or mono- 
gram of the hostess. For elaborate late breakfasts, the nap- 
kin may be richly embroidered to match the tablecloth. 

Luncheon-napkins are intermediate in size between those 
used for breakfast and dinner : otherwise they resemble 
breakfast-napkins. 

For the various teas and kettle-drums, small fancy nap- 
kins are used. Embroidery, etching, and fringes are quite 
in good taste. The tray-cloths should match the napkins. 

Japanese paper napkins may be used for out-door refresh- 
ments where there would be danger of losing or spoiling 
good linen ; but they are never so acceptable. 

All napkins should be simply folded at private tables, one 
of the corners being lifted to cover the dinner bread ; but 
care should be taken not to conceal the bread, lest the 
guest, taking up the napkin inadvertently, should throw 
the bread upon the floor. When the dinner is in progress, 
the napkin lies upon the knees, or is used with one hand ; 
after the napkin has been used, it is to be laid upon the 
table loosely, unless at the family table one is expected to 
place it in a napkin-ring. 

The use of the napkin by table-attendants calls for a few 
words. A perfectly clean large napkin should be carried 
upon the left arm ; and in passing dishes the attendant 
should cover the hand holding the dish with the napkin in 
such a way as to conceal the hand. When white gloves 
are worn by the attendants, the napkin remains upon the 



94 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

left arm. In pouring iced wines, a special napkin is re- 
quired for each bottle ; in pouring the other wines, unless 
the attendant's hand is gloved, it should be entirely con- 
cealed by the napkin. 

There should always be an extra supply of clean napkins 
upon the side-table, to replace one when needed at the table, 
or to use in case of accident. 

If a guest should drop a napkin while at table, no effort 
should be made to recover it until a sign can be made to 
the attendant to restore it. If it falls under the table, no 
attempt should be made to reach it, lest one's neighbor at 
table be inconvenienced. At the dessert, the dessert or fruit 
napkin is used, if they are placed, and the large white napkin 
is employed only to dry the tips of the fingers after they have 
been dipped in the finger-bowls ; otherwise the large napkin 
continues in use to the end of the dinner. 

WASHING TABLE-LINEN. 

A few words may be in place concerning the washing of 
table-linen. When it falls with the work of the table-girls, 
there is often trouble in the kitchen and laundry, especially 
about the boiling and the use of the tubs, when there is a 
large family to be cooked and washed for. The table-linen 
need not be boiled often ; and its washing can be greatly 
facilitated by soaking it for a hour or longer, before the first 
washing, in lukewarm water in which powdered borax has 
been dissolved, using half a cupful of powdered borax to a 
large tubful of water ; then wash the linen with very little 
good hard soap, rinse it in plenty of water till the water looks 
clear, and hang it out to dry at once. Table-linen requires 
very little starch, and not any when it is heavy. 

The ordinary stains upon table-linen yield to warm soapy 
water. Salt should be thrown upon claret-stains directly 
they are made, and they should be washed out in clear water 



THE DIN2VER-TABLE. 95 

when the meal is over. Iron-rust can generally be extracted 
by using lemon and salt, and then rinsing the cloth. Fruit- 
stains can be effaced by using a tablespoonful of chloride of 
lime and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar in a quart 
of cold water ; as soon as the stain is washed out, rinse the 
linen thoroughly in plenty of clean water. Mildew on linen 
can be removed by soaking it in the solution of lime and 
lemon-juice, and then rinsing it frequently ; if the mildew 
is obstinate, mix enough powdered starch into soft soap to 
nearly thicken it, add to it some salt and lemon-juice, cover 
both sides of the cloth with it, and expose it to the sun, let- 
ting it lie upon the grass, and renewing the paste until the 
stain disappears. 

Iron table-linen single until quite dry, with a hot iron 
made smooth by rubbing it upon fine sand and then on a 
waxed cloth ; when starch is used, a little salt or wax, dis- 
solved in it, prevents the sticking of the iron. Iron napkins 
in square folds ; fold tablecloths by the thread, or roll them 
upon a round stick, as long as the cloth is wide, as soon as 
they are ironed. 

SILVER AND CUTLERY. 

The use of silver, or silver-plated ware, is so general that 
most housekeepers have their favorite methods of cleaning 
and preserving it from defacement ; but a few points may be 
useful to the inexperienced. Careful housewives may take a 
hint from dealers, and keep their silver, when it is not in use, 
wrapped in soft tissue-paper, and closed from the air in its 
original cases, or in paper boxes ; this will largely obviate the 
necessity for the frequent cleaning which injures plated ware 
quite as much as use. 

The powders generally sold for polishing silver are com- 
posed of minute organizations of silicious nature, which pro- 
duce a polish by covering the surface of the metal with 
innumerable imperceptible scratches, thus destroying some 



96 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

of the silver. If powder is considered necessary for cleaning 
silver, it should be almost impalpable, so fine as to pass 
through delicate muslin, like precipitated chalk or jeweller's 
rouge. Add three ounces of the chalk, and two ounces of 
liquid ammonia, to one quart of soft water, and, after thor- 
oughly shaking these ingredients together, wet a soft cloth 
with the mixture, rub it over the silver, and then polish it 
with a piece of soft chamois. If silver is habitually washed 
with hot water in which soap and a very little washing-soda 
is dissolved, it will not often require any other cleaning ; the 
silver should be wiped^dry with a soft cloth, and then gently 
rubbed and polished with clean chamois-skin. 

When the chamois is soiled, it can be washed as follows : 
Dissolve in warm water enough soap to make a thick lather ; 
in this wash the chamois, rubbing it between the hands or 
on a wash-board ; put more soap upon stained parts, and 
continue the rubbing until the chamois is clean ; then rinse 
it through two or three waters, lukewarm, squeeze out the 
water, and hang it upon a clothes-line, in the sun, without 
wringing it ; as it dries, take it down, and shake it with a 
sharp, snapping noise, then pull it straight out, and again 
hang it up ; repeat the shaking and pulling until the skin is 
quite dry and soft. 

Chamois-skin which is used for filtering should be washed 
carefully as follows : Make a very weak solution of washing- 
soda, borax, or any alkali, with warm water ; wash the cha- 
mois in it without soap, and then rinse it through several 
cold waters ; every time the chamois is used, wash it in this 
way, and dry and stretch it as directed above. 

The use of steel knives as part of the dinner-equipage 
is regaining favor in this country. For a long time silver- 
plated blades maintained the supremacy ; but now the sharp 
steel blade, set in an ivory or fancy wood handle, is found 
upon the best-laid tables. For the white ivory and bone 



THE DINNER-TABLE. 97 

handles, the best poHshing-agent is finely powdered chalk. 
Mother-of-pearl is brightened by washing it in salted water, 
with subsequent hard rubbing with dry chamois-skin ; fruit- 
• stains on the handles can be carefully scraped off, and the 
places polished. The steel blades of table-knives can be 
cleaned and sharpened at the same time by rubbing them 
carefully upon a board covered with emery-cloth, or by using 
emery-powder as bath-brick is used. The latter is the agent 
most generally known for cleaning steel knife-blades. It 
should be finely powdered and sifted to insure uniformity, 
and then applied either with a cloth or a cork, dipped in 
cold water, or with a piece of raw potato ; before the knife 
is scoured, it should be washed clean, and then after scour- 
ing the blade can be wiped free from dust on a soft, clean 
cloth. 

Of the use of the knife at table, there can be but little 
diversity of opinion among people of refinement in this 
country. The fork is used whenever it is possible to sepa- 
rate food with it, the knife being called into use only when 
it is required for cutting, but never to convey food to the 
mouth. As a matter of convenience, the knife-blade does 
not contain food to be lifted from the plate to the mouth as 
well as the three- or four-pronged fork : its use was fostered 
by the old-fashioned two-pronged steel fork, which is not 
often seen now. The fork is held in the left hand when it is 
used with the knife for cutting ; otherwise it is held in the 
right. Apart from the general disuse of the knife in eating, 
its approach to the mouth is really a source of discomfort 
to a nervous or sensitive person ; if only for that reason, the 
practice of using it ought to be abandoned. When the knife 
is not in actual use, it should be laid upon the upper right- 
hand side of the plate. When the fork is put down momen- 
tarily, it may be laid across the plate from either the right 
or the left, or crossed upon the knife. When both have been 



98 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

used finally, they should be laid diagonally across the plate, 
with both handles toward the right hand : this is understood 
by well-trained waiters to be the signal for removing them, 
together with the plate. The question sometimes arises, of 
the proper disposition to make of them in case the plate is 
passed to the end of the table for a second supply of meat. 
When the dinner is served in several courses, it is not cus- 
tomary to ask for the second quantity, because the appetite 
is satisfied by the variety served ; but if from preference 
more is wanted, or at plain dinners, where only one or two 
meats appear, the plate is to be passed, the knife and fork 
may be laid upon the cloth if they are not in a condition to 
soil it, or both may be held in the right hand over the cloth. 
When the small plate for bread and butter is employed, as 
indicated in the description of the laying of the table, the 
knife and fork may be placed upon that until the large plate 
is returned. When the meal is served in several courses, 
knives and forks are either laid with the service of each 
course, or as many as will be required are placed when the 
cover is first laid, — with the exception of the small two- 
pronged silver or nickel fork for raw oysters and clams, which 
is laid upon the plate containing them ; and the silver fruit 
knife and fork, which are placed upon the dessert-plate, 
beside the finger-bowl, and then laid upon the table by the 
guest. As has already been said, when there is not an abun- 
dance of silver, arrangements should be made near the 
dining-room for washing it quickly in hot water containing 
a very little washing-soda, for the purpose of removing the 
taste and odor of food. 

Fine steel knives should never be exposed to intense heat ; 
because it destroys their temper, and thus impairs their cut- 
ting qualities. Good carving-knives should not be used for 
cutting bread, or in the kitchen : they should be cleaned so 
carefully as not to turn their edges, and always kept sharp 



THE DINXER-TABLE. 99 

by the use of a fine whetstone ; a carving-steel more often 
injures than aids a carving-knife unless the person sharp- 
ening the knife has watched a butcher using a steel. A 
medium-size French cook-knife, of Sabatier's manufacture, 
makes an excellent carver, because the blade is thin and 
flexible, and made of good steel. There should always be 
in the kitchen good knives for cutting bread, meat, and 
vegetables ; and a special knife for using about the stove. 
The best knife for this purpose is a medium-size artist's 
palette-knife of steel, with a wooden handle ; the blade is 
flexible and broad, admirably adapted for turning small 
cakes, potatoes, and omelettes, and wholly unlikely to be 
injured by the heat because it has no cutting edge. 

CHINA AND GLASS. 

When there need be no limit but taste and fancy in the 
furnishing of a table, beautiful effects can be produced with 
china and glass. When it is necessary to economize, only 
plain white china, and glass free from any set ornamentation, 
should be bought ; because it is far easier and cheaper to 
replace plain ware if any is broken. Generally both deco- 
rated china and ornamental glass are sold in sets, and deal- 
ers are unwilling to supply any single piece ; besides, the 
plain ware is less expensive originally than that profusely 
ornamented, and it combines well with odd bits of colored 
china and glass and bright flowers, and is always in good 
taste. Cut glass is always expensive, and easily broken. If 
exposed to sudden changes in temperature, it will crack by 
the force of contraction or expansion ; for instance, if fragile 
glass is put into hot water in frosty weather, it will often 
break. Glass should for this reason always be washed in 
tepid or cool water, using the hand to remove spots ; it 
may then be set in a rack to dry, and afterwards be polished 
with clean, soft chamois, or cloth free from lint. The deep 



ICXD PRACT/CAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

indentations in fine cut glass can be polished by using a soft 
brush dipped in a little powdered chalk or whiting. 

Some of the finer kinds of glass-ware are annealed, or 
seasoned to bear heat, in the process of manufacture, and 
are therefore less likely to break than the cheaper sorts 
which have not undergone this operation. A somewhat 
similar process may be followed, which results in increasing 
the durability of the glass and china submitted to it. Put 
the articles which require to be seasoned in a large pan full 
of cold water ; place the pan over a gentle fire, and slowly 
heat the water until it begins to boil ; then remove the pan 
to the coldest part of the stove, and let the heat decrease 
gradually until the water is quite cold. The articles thus 
tempered can then be wiped and made ready for use. After 
this first heating process, neither china nor crockery should 
be allowed to become very hot, either in using it at table 
or in washing it, because its glaze will be gradually seamed 
with cracks. Once this enamel is cracked, both water and 
grease will penetrate the china, and it will even gradually 
absorb flavors from food : the cracking of the glaze also 
renders the china more liable to break. If in washing glass 
and china a wooden bowl or tub is used, there is compara- 
tively little of the danger of chipping or breaking it which 
attends the use of a metal utensil. 

When decorated china is selected, nice discrimination is 
required. Unless a bizarre effect is sought, the pattern 
should show unity and delicacy : all grotesque ornamenta- 
tion should be avoided, as also should glaring contrasts of 
color and a profusion of gilding. Gilded china always 
wears unequally ; when not in actual use, it should be kept 
in a dry, dark closet, wrapped in soft paper ; dampness 
tarnishes the gilt, and rubbing or scratching obliterates it. 
When gilt china is very much tarnished, the outer film may 
be removed by rubbing it very lightly and evenly with a 



THE DINNER-TABLE. lOI 

piece of soft chamois dipped in jeweller's rouge, or in finely 
powdered chalk which has been sifted through thin silk. 
When gilt china is washed, the water should be lukewarm, 
and contain a little borax or soda : the china should be well 
drained, and then very lightly wiped with a soft cloth. All 
richly decorated fine china requires the same careful treat- 
ment. The finest Oriental china is of delicate even colors, 
without a line of decoration or a shade of contrast, but the 
effect is indescribably beautiful. In modern china, the most 
beautiful effects are in soft flower and sea-shell tints ; except 
in a few sorts, such as Royal Worcester, where superb con- 
trasts of color and gilt are made. For high teas and kettle- 
drums, the grotesque harlequin sets are sometimes used. 
After all, the choice of china is entirely a matter of individual 
taste. 



CHAPTER VII. 

LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 

THE relative convenience of different-shaped tables has 
been referred to. Decidedly, the square and round 
tables are the most desirable ; because, placed in a circle or 
nearly facing the host, no guest is given precedence except 
those who occupy the seats of honor at the right hand of 
the host and hostess respectively. If the shape of the room 
will not admit of the use of a round or square table, a good 
effect may be produced by placing the host and hostess at 
opposite sides of the long extension-table, facing each other : 
this position draws the entire company relatively nearer their 
entertainers, and those in whose honon the feast is given, 
and so increases both interest and enjoyment. 

It has become the custom, in laying a table, to avoid 
uniformity of decoration in all matters except the massing 
of a few choice varieties of flowers, — unless a " pink din- 
ner," or some such entertainment, is being given, when the 
purpose is to emphasize some special color ; then the china, 
glass, flowers, lamp or candle shades, and even the ladies' 
costumes, take on the prevailing tone of color. Details of 
these effects are given elsewhere in the book. Of course the 
laying of all the covers must be uniform ; and it is agreed 
that the service of a dinner is facilitated, and the general 
effect heightened, when more than one set of silver and 
cutlery is laid at first. There are so many dainty forms of 



LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. IO3 

such table-sen-ice, that a well-laid cover becomes a beautiful 
picture, especially when the table is large enough to admit 
of the proper placing of the various aids to the guests' com- 
fort and convenience. Whatever form of service is chosen 
for the dinner, the articles used in good houses, in laying 
each cover, consist of the napkin, a dinner roll or a thick, 
small cut of fresh bread, the necessary cutlery and silver, 
the water-tumbler, and glasses for the different wines when 
wine is served, and, at convenient intervals, receptacles for 
the condiments, and iced water or ice. Individual salt- 
cellars are in vogue, but several larger silver or cut-glass 
ones may be placed upon the table, as well as some unique 
and pretty pepper-casters of metal or china. The salad-oil 
and vinegar are in double cruet-stands upon the table, or 
on the sideboard ready to be placed upon the table when 
the salad is served. The table- sauces are put on the side- 
board until required, being left in their original bottles. 
The large table-caster is a thing of the past, and is banished 
even from the sideboard unless it is really an ornamental 
piece. Individual water-bottles, with tumblers to cover 
them, are much favored, because of their convenience to 
this water-drinking nation. Dishes of broken ice are per- 
missible at small dinners. The water-bottles may be filled 
with ice and frozen without much trouble, according to 
directions given later on. Some caterers make a specialty 
of supplying these frozen carafes. The number of wine- 
glasses is, of course, regulated by the variety of wines to be 
served : this point will be amplified later. 

Extra knives, forks, and spoons are upon the sideboard, 
ready to be placed by the attendants, between the courses : 
the oyster-fork is upon the plate with the shellfish, or is laid 
when they are served. When butter is sen-ed, as it often is 
in this country, a small plate and a special knife are placed 
for it. A nice idea for family dinners, or luncheons, is to 



104 I'RACTICAI. AMERICAN COOKERY. 

use a small plate, about the size of a saucer, upon which 
the butter can be placed, together with the bread, and the 
salt wlien large salt-cellars are used. The teaspoons are 
upon the sideboard, to be placed upon the table when re- 
quired. Small spoons are needed when coffee is served in 
the little cups used after dinner for black coffee, or cafe noir. 
When there is not an abundance of silver, there should be, 
in a room adjoining the dining-room, all the conveniences 
for quickly washing and drying it ; i.e., hot water, soap, and 
soft towels ; a small piece of washing-soda dissolved in the 
hot water will thoroughly cleanse the silver from any odor 
or taste of food. 

Uniform color has been indicated for the general table 
equipage ; but if the table is large enough to admit of more 
than one group of flowers, or colored china, they should 
differ far enough to produce a contrast ; and a change, how- 
ever slight, should be made at every repast. At all seasons, 
flowers make a charming variation in the appearance of even 
the most simply laid table ; and variety at the table is a great 
charm, quite as necessary to the enjoyment of the repast as 
is a good choice of dishes. Especially in the spring and 
early summer, the appetite is so capricious that it can be 
affected by such trifles of service as light and color. The 
perfect hostess will not despise even trifles, where the enjoy- 
ment of her guests is concerned. 

The lighting of a dinner-table is of importance. The 
pleasantest light falls from candles or lamps, which should 
be so placed as not to incommode the diners. Lamps are 
sometimes suspended over the table, as are gas-fixtures. Side 
lights are apt to cross the light so that it is unpleasant : if they 
are used, they should be shaded. When it is desirable to 
give a prevailing tone of color, the lights and their globes or 
shades will be found most effective auxiliaries : details of these 
possibilities are given in the chapter on dining-room fittings. 



LAYING AXD SERVING THE TABLE. 105 

The frontispiece represents the general effect of a well-laid 
table, and the detail of a cover is given opposite : if the direc- 
tions are carefully studied, there will be no difficulty in carry- 
ing them out with the aid of the picture. We have in these 
two pictures the table laid for the service of a dinner in the 
American style, which admits of great beauty of ornamenta- 
tion, and does not involve those tiresome and troublesome 
changes of the entire table-equipage according to the formal 
English method, where the cloth is changed with each course. 

The table-cloth for all dinners should be white, and with- 
out perceptible folds or creases. It is not always easy to 
accomplish this triumph of laundry-work in small establish- 
ments ; but it is possible if the cloth is carefully ironed, and 
rolled at once upon a long, round piece of wood, like a cur- 
tain-roller. As has been already said, the pretty fashion pre- 
vails of laying a strip of bright-colored plush or satin down 
the middle of the table, with a vine of smilax or ivy along 
the edges ; as a variation, a strip of wide, very open lace, of 
a definite pattern, laid over a piece of satin, silk, or cambric, 
is sometimes employed. In arranging the table decorations 
upon and near this bit of color, due regard to harmony must 
be observed. The table-napkins should match the pattern 
of the cloth, and be large and square : they should be folded, 
and so placed that the guest will not be exposed to any 
awkwardness in using them : for instance, if a roll or piece 
of bread is hidden in one, it may be thrown upon the floor 
by a careless movement ; the dinner bread is best placed at 
the front or side of the plate, laid upon the napkin, but not 
concealed by it. 

After the ornamental .centre of the table has been planned 
(care being taken that it shall not be high enough to obstruct 
the view of the entire table), and the various dishes placed 
for condiments, relishes, and such small dishes as the chosen 
service permits, — the flowers being kept fresh until just be- 




io6 



LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 10/ 

fore the dinner is served, — each guest's place or cover is 
laid as follows : upon the left, a soup-spoon and two silver 
forks, one large ; in the centre, the dinner-plate, upon which 
the plate of oysters or clams is to be set just before serving 
the dinner, or, if there is to be no shellfish, the napkin may 
be jDut here with the dinner bread ; when the shellfish is 
served, the bread and napkin may be laid just above the 
spoon and forks, together with the salt-cellar and water-tum- 
bler, or the small carafe with the tumbler reversed upon it ; 
at the right of the cover, a steel knife with a pearl or ivory 
handle, for meats, and a silver dinner-knife of medium size ; 
sometimes a smaller knife with a silver blade and some fan- 
ciful handle is placed to be used for cheese, salad, or butter 
when it is served, as it generally is upon American tables. 
The disuse of butter at dinner is to be traced to those coun- 
tries where it is less plentiful than in America, and it is such 
a useful article of food that it is to be hoped the fashion in 
question will not generally prevail. When wine is served, 
the glasses may be symmetrically arranged at the upper 
right of the cover. When all the dinner-wines are used, it 
is well to have some of the more fragile glasses remain upon 
the sideboard until they are needed, placing at first upon the 
table a hock-glass for the white wine, a small wine-glass for 
the sherry, and claret and champagne glasses ; this is the 
number of glasses placed in the picture, in addition to a 
goblet for iced water. The glasses should be about four 
inches from the edge of the table. The glasses for port, 
Madeira, Burgundy, and the liqueurs should be upon the side- 
board, together with extra glasses of all kinds to replace any 
accidentally overturned or broken. 

Also, upon the sideboard or table, there should be plenty 
of fresh napkins, plates, and silver, the finger-bowls and 
dishes which are to be used during the dessert, the cups and 
saucers for coffee, sugar, cigars or cigarettes when there are 



I08 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

gentlemen present, and the wines and liqueurs which are not 
iced. 

Before placing the dessert, crumbs can be best removed 
by using a large silver knife ; it is better than a bnish, which 
only scatters the crumbs about the cloth and over the floor. 
In some houses, the old custom still prevails of removing the 
cloth before the dessert is served, so as to place it upon the 
polished mahogany table : this implies ample attendance. 
The table must be bright enough to reflect every glint of 
light which falls on it ; then, in the removal of the cloth, it 
must be rolled or folded from one end of the table to the 
other by a servant on either side of the table, and others 
must be near to assist them by raising and replacing the 
table-ornaments, otherwise the process is awkward and tedi- 
ous. At best, it involves much reaching over the shoulders 
of the guests, unless they are seated far apart. 

After the crumbs have been removed, or the cloth changed, 
the finger-bowls are put upon the table, and the dessert 
is served. A small colored or embroidered napkin is laid 
on a dessert-plate, usually of decorated china, and the glass 
bowl is set upon the napkin. Sometimes a small glass con- 
taining a little perfumed water is set in the bowl : at the end 
of the dinner this glass is raised to the lips to refresh them, 
and the fingers are dipped into the bowl. The dinner-nap- 
kin is used for drying the hands, and is then laid without 
folding at the side of the plate. Unless at very informal 
family dinners, fresh napkins are always laid. The embroid- 
ered napkins under the bowls are to be placed under them 
on the table-cloth, when the plate is required for the dessert. 
If the dessert-napkins are colored and of wash material, they 
are to be used if fruit is served ; otherwise the dinner-nap- 
kin remains in use. Upon the plate, by the side of the fin- 
ger-bowl, the dessert silver is laid, a fruit-knife and teaspoon, 
and a silver fork if the dessert includes any juicy large fruit 



LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 109 

such as pears or pine-apple. The guest lays this silver upon 
the table, and places the bowl, with the doily under it, within 
easy reach. If there is a fruit-napkin, it is laid ready for use ; 
and, unless a fresh white napkin is served, the dinner-napkin 
remains upon the knees until the end of the dinner : when 
the white dessert-napkin is laid, the dinner-napkin is to be 
taken away before the service of the dessert. Other details 
in regard to the napkin are given where the table-linen is 
discussed. 

When the frozen carafes or water-bottles are to be pre- 
pared at home, the following method will be found easy and 
satisfactory. Unless small carafes for individual use are de- 
sired, the ordinary glass ones will answer : the use of cut or 
pressed glass bottles is attended with the danger of breaking 
during the freezing. Smooth carafes are best, holding about 
a quart : they are filled with fresh water to the bottom of the 
neck, and set in a wooden tub containing enough freezing- 
mixture to reach two- thirds up the sides. The freezing-mix- 
ture is composed of three parts of pounded ice to one of 
salt. The carafes are covered first with a clean cloth, and 
then with a heavy blanket, and allowed to remain undis- 
turbed until the water is frozen. If they are left over night, 
as they sometimes are in summer, sufficient drainage must 
be insured to prevent the entrance of the melted freezing- 
mixture to the carafes. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 

FLOWERS AT TABLE. 

FLOWERS will probably always hold favor as table 
decorations, because of their beauty and freshness • 
but the use of large and elaborate flower-stands, or high 
ornamental figures of sweetmeats and confectionery, epergjies, 
or plate, should be deprecated. They obstruct the inter- 
course of the guests, which to be enjoyable must be uncon- 
strained. In summer, a very effective centre-piece for the 
table may be formed by wreathing a block of ice with 
smilax, ivy, or ferns ; of course, care must be taken to in- 
sure perfect drainage, or a sufficiently large receptacle to 
hold the water must be placed under the ice, otherwise the 
tablecloth will be soiled. The size and shape of the table 
will decide the degree of ornamentation admissible. 

A round -table might be arranged somewhat after the 
following fashion, using only flowers for decoration. In the 
service a la Riisse, the small dessert-dishes and the relishes 
would be interspersed. A fine cloth being laid, the centre 
of the table would be filled with either a block of ice 
wreathed in vines or leaves, or a stand of dwarf foliage- 
plants, or a circular bed of flowers of some pronounced 
color, usually of one variety ; next, in the outer circle, con- 
trasting flowers, or small dessert-dishes and relishes harmo- 
niously arranged so far as color and form are concerned ; 
and at the edge of the table, the service of covers. In this 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WliVES. I IT 

plan no calculation is made for placing on the table the dif 
ferent dishes composing the dinner ; when the service in- 
volves this, space should be left for the dishes, large enough 
to allow a margin of the cloth to show between the centre 
decoration and the dishes served. 

When flowers are not in season, a centre may be made of 
a china figure supporting an open dish for fruits ; other 
fruits and nuts may be dispersed m low dishes around the 
centre-piece, and beyond them the small relishes, varied 
with a few flowers or even leaves. 

For a long table, when flowers are not abundant, the strip 
of colored plush or satin is very effective : it should be bor- 
dered with ivy, moss, or any trailing vine ; smilax, black- 
berry-vines, woodbine, and honeysuckle are admirable for this 
purpose. When only moss or leaves are used, a few bright 
flowers or berries, placed at intervals, heighten the briUiancy 
of the effect. One of the loveliest of long-table decorations 
is a profusely flowering vine of honeysuckle, laid the entire 
length of the table. Another beautiful centre is an oval 
mass of fruit and leaves, placed low upon the table, the 
middle of the mound being slightly elevated. 

An exquisite summer centre-piece is a block of ice, 
wreathed in ferns, with an outer circle of water-lilies and 
their leaves and curling stems. But flowers of pronounced 
odors are sometimes objectionable. Low dishes filled with 
violets and pansies are most beautiful when arranged on a 
white cloth. A low epergne, or a -china figure supporting 
a basket, either to be filled with fruit, and set in a broad 
circle of pansies, is very beautiful : flat dishes containing the 
sweets may be sunk among the flowers. Nasturtium-vines, 
with the leaves and flowers, are bright and effective. Of 
course the queen of all table-flowers is the rose, and the 
variety is innumerable. In flower-decoration, there should 
be one predominating color. 



112 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

In summer each gentleman is supplietl with a boutonniere, 
and each lady with a corsage-bouquet. The bouquets are 
tied with ribbons of contrasting colors, and a large pin is 
stuck into the cloth for the purpose of fastening the flowers 
to the dress. 

At elaborate entertainments, when it is desired to present 
the ladies with some souvenir, bouquet clasp-pins may be 
substituted for the ordinary large pin, or the large pin may 
be made of gold or silver. Very pretty silver pins can be 
bought for from fifty cents to one dollar, and more fanciful 
ones and bouquet-pins for from one dollar upwards, accord- 
ing to their style of ornamentation. 

MENUS. OR BILLS OF FARE. 

In the choice of menu-cards, much taste may be dis- 
played. Extreme ornamentation should be avoided, and 
the names of the dishes written legibly with ink, either in 
the centre of the ornamentation, when space is left there, 
or upon the plain side of the card. When small cards are 
used, one should be laid at each place : this is desirable 
when the number of guests is large, for then on the reverse 
of the card can be written the name of the guest who is 
to occupy the seat. When large tnenu-cards are used, one 
answers for four or five guests. The large cards are more 
elaborate, and are often framed flat, or set on low orna- 
mental easels. The names of the different wines are to be 
placed opposite the dishes with which they are to be served. 
The cook and head waiter should both have a copy of the 
bill of fare, so that they may know when to serve the various 
dishes composing the dinner. 

The ability to compose a bill of fare judiciously implies 
taste and discrimination. The fact should always be re- 
membered, that a heavy soup will so far cloy the appetite 
as to render one indifferent to the rest of the dinner, while 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. II3 

a clear soup refreshes and prepares one for the enjoyment 
of the succeeding soUds. The fish and entrees should not 
be substantial enough to satisfy hunger entirely : the rel- 
ishes will then stimulate the appetite for the heavier dishes. 
The service of Roman punch before the roast refreshes 
the palate, and prepares the more perfect enjoyment of 
the succeeding dishes : it is as necessary to the service 
of a good dinner as cheese is with the plain salad. When 
olives are on the table, they go well with entrees of game ; 
French chestnuts are excellent with poultry ; and almonds, 
blanched and roasted with salt, are enjoyable with Madeira 
or sherry before the sweet entremets. Only a plain vegetable 
salad should accompany the roast or game, and a bit of any 
old cheese may be passed with the salad. Cheese straws or 
cheese crusts may be sensed with the salad. Although the 
cheese belongs with the salad, it enters into some delicate 
dishes, such as fondus and souffles, which may come to the 
table either after the oysters or soup, as relishes, or before 
the large sweets at dessert, previous to the service of the 
nuts and fruit. Then comes the dessert, placed as already 
indicated. If the dinner is small, it is perfectly permissible 
for the hostess to make the coffee at the table, or it may be 
ser\'ed in the drawing-room later. 

Even with the best-chosen menu, the success of a dinner 
depends on the skill of the cook. A good cook appreciates 
the value of sauces, and will give much care to their prepa- 
ration, and, above all, will endeavor to preserve the natural 
flavors of the different dishes. All mingling of flavors is 
objectionable, except in sauces and salads. 

The details of the bill of fare are as follows : — 

The Shellfish {Huitres) includes small raw oysters, and 

Little Neck or hard-shell clams, on the half-shell ; at the same 

time, brown bread cut very thin and buttered, and cut lemons, 

salt, cayenne, and sharp table-sauces are placed upon the table. 



114 PRACTICAL AMEKICA.V COOKERY. 

The Soup {Pofagc) is varied according to the character of 
the dinner. If it is choice, no matter how small it is, there 
are always two soups ; one a perfectly clear soup, or con- 
somme, and the other a rich, thick one, such as a bisque or 
cream. A thick cut of bread, or a roll with crisp crust, is 
placed upon the napkin when the co\'er is laid, to be used 
after the shellfish. 

The Fish {Poissoii) may be of any large kind, boiled and 
served with a good sauce and plain boiled potatoes. If the 
dinner is large or elaborate, there should be two kinds of 
fish, one boiled, and the other baked and served with a gar- 
nish, or small fish with a sauce and garnish, and some special 
dish of potatoes, such as Parisienne or HoUandaise. If 
shellfish is used here, the dish should be large and hot. 

The Relishes {Hors-d' kuvi-c) ,\N\i\Q)i\ are placed upon the 
table in the American dinner and the service a la Russe, 
include all kinds of table-sauces and catsups, salted almonds, 
pickles, olives, caviare, vinaigrettes, small cold entrees such 
as bouchees and pdte-de-foie-gras, pickled fish and small 
tongues, and individual escalops. 

The Removes (or Releves^ consist of boiled, baked, and 
braised meats, poultry, and large game, large veal, ham, 
game, and fish pies, and large cold joints, such as tongue 
and ham, generally served with a garnish of vegetables ; the 
remove at a small dinner may consist of an elaborately 
dressed cold fish, if the regular fish service has been omitted. 

The Side-dishes {Entrees) are the small hot meats gar- 
nished, such as cutlets, chops breaded or larded, steaks with 
sauces garnished, small meats and poultry larded, sweet- 
breads garnished, frieandeaux, fricassees, ragouts, escalopes, 
all hot ; hot raised pies, pates, and rissoles, combination 
salads of vegetables, salads with mayonnaise, such as chicken 
and lobster ; in brief, any dish in size less than a joint or a 
roast. 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. II5 

Roman Punch {Sorbei) . — There are many delicious ices 
served under the general name of Roman punch, all having 
a combination of frozen fruit-sherbet and some fine liqueur, 
cordial, wine, or spirit ; served in the midst of the dinner, 
when the palate needs the sense of refreshment they give, 
they prepare it for ren'ewed enjoyment, and render it capable 
of appreciating the intense flavor of the roast and the bou- 
quet of the Burgundy or champagne, that follow them. 

The Roast {Rati). — For family dinners, the roast may 
be a joint of any meat preferred ; but for special occasions 
it should be of venison, larded hare, or some large game- 
bird. If wild duck is served, there should be more than 
one, because only the breast is carved ; when canvas-backs 
are used, half a breast cut in one piece is served to each 
guest. Smaller birds, either roasted or broiled, may be 
served in this course. All game should be underdone. A 
garnish of watercress or celery is used with birds, and always 
currant-jelly and special sauces with venison and hare. 

Salad (Sa/ade). — A green salad is the proper accom- 
paniment of the roast ; it may be of watercress, lettuce, 
celery, chiccory, escarole, burnet, nasturtium (leaves, fruit, 
and flowers), corn-salad, dandelion, tarragon, fennel, mint, 
young onions, and any of the green sweet herbs : the five 
first-named varieties are the most gtnerally used. Some- 
times tomatoes and cucumbers are served here ; but they 
more properly belong, the cucumbers with the fish, and the 
tomatoes with a mayonnaise among the eiitrees. The best 
dressing for a green salad is of oil, vmegar, salt, and pep- 
per : a salad with mayonnaise belongs among the entrees, 
as do the salads of cold cooked vegetables. A little old, 
rich cheese may be served with the green salad if desired. 

Second-course Side-dishes {Entremets). — After the 
roast and its accompanying green salad, it is customary to 
serve hot vegetables dressed with sauces, hot meat, fish, 



Il6 FRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

or game pies, croquettes and fritters with sauces, eggs in 
elaborate form with sauces, large cold side-dishes ; and the 
second-course sweets such as croquettes, charlottes, cro- 
quatites, timbales, cold puddings in moulds, hot puddings 
with sauces, pastries, moulded jellies and creams, meringues, 
souffles, and macedoines. 

Dessert {Des'sert). — The dessert consists of the small 
cold sweets, such as eclairs, fancy cakes, nougats, confec- 
tionery, candied fruits, nuts, individual moulded jellies, ices, 
and creams, glaci's and cafe noir. When it is divided in 
two parts, the dishes called glaces are served first ; these 
include every sweet which can be crystallized, frozen or iced : 
after them comes the dessert proper, composed of candied 
and dry preserved fruits, nuts, bonbons, and little fancy cakes, 
ox petit-fours, and the cheese and coffee. 

THE SERVICE OF DISHES. 

After the dinner-table is properly arranged in accordance 
with any chosen style, the service of the dinner becomes 
the matter of importance. Unless the various dishes are 
acceptably presented, the finest cookery loses its value ; and 
if the attendants do not know how to carry out the details 
of the service defdy and quietly, the comfort of the entire 
repast is destroyed. If strange waiters are brought into the 
house for any special occasion, they should be made per- 
fectly conversant with all the resources and facilities of the 
establishment. There should be a clear understanding as to 
just what is to be done by, the servants in the kitchen, and 
those in the dining-room ; and, if possible, matters should 
be so planned that the waiters do not have to leave the 
room. All the dishes, and those parts of the dinner which 
need not be hot, should be in the dining-room before the 
meal is served, either upon the dinner-table or upon the side- 
board or side-table. Then, if the cook or kitchen-maid 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FAKE, AND WINES. 11/ 

brings the hot dishes to the door or into an adjoining-room, 
there need be no unnecessary delay. 

The oysters or clams on the half-shell are to be kept on 
the ice until just before the dinner is announced ; they are 
then to be arranged on appropriate plates, and set at each 
cover, the oyster-plate being placed on a large dinner-plate, 
which is to be removed with it when the hot plate is placed 
for the fish. A bit of lemon is to be put in the centre of 
the oyster-plate, six half-shells being served on each plate 
(except in California, where one can consume at least a dozen 
of the small delicious native bivalves) ; the small oyster-fork 
is laid either upon the plate, or beside it on the table. After 
the shellfish are eaten, the guest leaves the fork upon the 
plate so that it can be removed with it. Plates of brown 
bread, cut very thin and buttered, are placed upon the table 
with the shellfish, and removed with them. If this bread is 
intended for use with the salad, it should be served in one 
compartment of a fancy basket or dish ; the other divisions 
containing biscuit, crackers, old cheese, olives, and small 
relishes. Butter intended to be used with the bread and 
salad should be made up in small fancy pats or balls and 
iced. The basket containing these articles should be re- 
moved from the table with the salad. 

All plates are removed, and the various dishes passed, at 
the guest's left : the wine is poured at the right. Hot plates 
are served with all the dishes except foie-gras, caviare, 
salads, and the cold sweets. 

Great care should be exercised in preparing the dishes in 
the kitchen, and in bringing them to the table in a perfectly 
neat condition. The soup should not fill the tureen so far 
as to endanger spilling. The dishes for fish should be suited 
m size and shape to the contents. If the fish is boiled, it 
should be served unbroken, on a napkin laid in the appro- 
priate platter, and garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley 



Il8 PRACTICAL AMERICA IV COOKERY. 

or slices of lemon, the sauce l)eing served in a sauce-boat : 
if sauce is served on the chsh with the fish, only enough to 
cover the centre of the dish should be used, and the fish 
laid on it ; the rest is served in a sauce-boat. Entrees should 
be very neatly arranged with the proper garnishes, with sauce 
enough to surrountl them, but not to reach to the edge of 
the dish. Very little gravy, or none at all, should be on the 
dish with joints, as it is likely to be spilled in carving ; and 
the dish should be deep enough to contain all that may flow 
from the cut meat. 

In the service of English and American dinners, the soup, 
salad, and large sweets are to be placed before the hostess ; 
the fish, meats, and game which require carving, before the 
host. If two dishes of a kind are served at a large dinner, 
one is to be put before each. The relishes and small sweets 
are placed in different parts of the table ; and the vegetables 
are passed by the servants, after the large dishes are served, 
a spoon and fork being in each dish, so that the guest can 
easily help himself. When two large dishes are served at 
once, there is always the possibility that one will be spoiled 
by waiting until it is required ; and, besides, it is then neces- 
sary that both hosts should be expert carvers. In the dinner 
served a la Rtisse, the carving is all done at the side-table 
by the servants. Sometimes the dishes are placed on the 
table a moment, for the approbation of the master or mis- 
tress of the house, and then taken away to be carved ; but 
this involves delay. In this form of service, the plates are 
laid between each course, and the guests help themselves as 
the waiters pass the dishes after they are carved. 

In treating of the service of dinners, some general refer- 
ence has been made to the different methods of placing the 
dishes upon the table : here the full details will be given 
of the three forms of service in vogue in this country and 
abroad, — the English and American, and the service a la 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AXD IVTXES. I- 1 9 

Russc which is much favored by caterers. With the English 
service, much labor falls upon the hosts in the way of carving 
and serving, but the effect is hospitable in the extreme. In 
the dinner a la Russe, every care falls upon the servants, but 
this necessitates a greater number than any other form of 
service. The American dinner-service is not very trying to 
the hosts, especially if dishes are chosen which can easily 
be dispensed : the effect is homelike, and one well-trained 
servant can attend eight or ten guests. 

THE ENGLISH DINNER-SERVICE. 

In serving a dinner according to the approved English 
method, the table must first be laid with a cotton-flannel or 
baize cloth, so that the heat of the dishes cannot affect its 
polished mahogany surface ; even when an ordinary wood 
table is used, this cloth gives a good body to those laid over 
it ; the dessert-cloth of delicately tinted damask is next 
spread ; and above that, one or more white cloths, according 
to the number of courses which are to be served, the cloth 
being removed after each course is served. The covers are 
then laid for the first course, including the necessary wine- 
glasses for the wines to be served during the course ; the 
relishes and condiments for the course are placed ; and 
the flower-decorations, which are generally massive. Several 
dishes placed upon the table at once constitute a course ; 
the largest before the host and hostess, to be carved by them 
and put upon plates passed from their left to the left hand 
of the guests by the waiters. When there is a large staff of 
servants, the butler, who is in charge of them, makes the first 
ser\'ice, and then relegates it to his assistants, and attends to 
the wines. The soups, salads, and large sweets are set be- 
fore the hostess ; the large dishes of fish, meat, and game, 
which require carving, are placed before the host ; the rel- 
ishes, vegetables, and small sweets are set upon the table, 



I20 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



each with its appropriate course, and passed by the servants 
after tlie large dishes are served. When two large dishes are 
served in the same course, the least difficult is set before the 
hostess. The chief disadvantage of this form of service is 
that one of the large dishes is apt to become cold before it 
is served to the guests ; and, besides, it requires that both 
host and hostess should be expert carvers. As each course 
is finished, the servants entirely clear the table, remove the 
cloth, and then arrange the table afresh for the next course, 
as already described in the chapter on Laying and Serving 
the Table. Sometimes in a dinner of only two courses, the 
same white cloth serves until dessert, and then all the cloths 
are removed, and the dessert proper, of fruit, nuts, and wine, 
is placed upon the polished mahogany. 

An English dinner of three courses would be divided 
somewhat after the following method. 



Punch and 
Madeira. 

Sherry. 

Hock 

and 

Bordeaux. 



Burgundy. 



Champagne. 



Old Port. 



FIRST COURSE. 

Native Oysters on the Half Shell. 

Brown bread and butter. 

Thick Turtle Soup. Green Turtle Clear Soup. 

Turbot with Lobster Sauce. 

Boiled Salmon, Anchovy Sauce. 

Cucumbers. Boiled Potatoes. 

' Lobster Cutlets. Moor Game Pie. 

Filets of Wild Duck, Seville Orange Sauce. 

Vol-au-Vcnt of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms. 

SECOND COURSE. 

Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce. 

Saddle of Mutton, Currant Jelly. Boiled Sea-Kale. 

Jerusalem Artichokes with White Sauce. 

Roast Ptarmigan and Pheasants. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Asparagus with Hollandaisc Sauce. 

Nesselrode and Iced Puddings. 



THIRD COURSE. 

Dessert Sherry. Fruit Tarts. Noyeau Jelly 
Ice Cream. Fruit. Nuts. 



Chartreuse of Orange. 
Cheese. Coffee. 



FLO]VERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 121 



THE SERVICE OF DINNER A LA RUSSE. 

This form of service is popular, because the table is made 
very attractive by the pretty dishes which it permits to be 
placed there ; and, besides, it entails but little care upon the 
hosts ; well-trained servants can easily manage all the details, 
leaving the hosts free to devote themselves to their guests. 
In laying the table, one white cloth is placed over a cotton- 
flannel one, and a low centre-piece of plate, crystal, or fine 
china, filled with flowers, occupies the middle of the table. 
Bright-colored dishes containing relishes, olives, small sweets, 
biscuit, fruit, nuts, and bonbotis, are dispersed about the 
table ; dressed salads, jellied fish and meats, if small, may 
be used, but no hot or greasy dishes are permissible ; flowers 
always form part of the ornamentation, and boutonnieres and 
corsage-bouquets may be laid beside each cover. As the 
table is not cleared during the dinner, there is a good 
opportunity for producing beautiful effects. The effects will 
largely depend upon the prevailing colors, which should be 
harmonious, and chosen with some reference to the appear- 
ance of the dishes which are to be placed upon the table 
during the progress of the dinner. Many dishes, especially 
entrees, are very ornamental ; and others may be included 
in the dessert. 

In planning a dinner a la Russe, the hostess can choose 
dishes that can be carved without disarranging them before 
they are sent into the dining-room, or at the side-table by 
the servants, and then passed without any supervision on her 
part. Some of the dishes illustrated in the chapter on carving 
will exemplify this idea ; other suitable ones will be found 
among the garnished entrees or side-dishes. For more than 
ten guests, there should be a servant for each side of the 
table, and the service can be greatly expedited if a third 
follows the passing of each large dish with its appropriate 



122 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKEP.Y. 



vegetable. All the dishes should contain a fork and spoon 
for serving them ; and the waiters must either wear white 
gloves, or cover the thumb, where it touches the rim of the 
dish, with a clean napkin. The same care must be exer- 
cised in laying a plate before a guest. Of course the nap- 
kin, gloves, and hands must be scrupulously clean. In this 
service, a fresh plate containing a knife and fork is laid 
before each guest as soon as the preceding course is finished : 
the guest lays the knife and fork upon the tablecloth. The 
plate of the hostess is changed last at each course. 



THE DINNER SERVICE 

AS SHOWN ON MENU CARDS. 



French Form. 

Huitres. 

Potage. 

Pais son. 

Hors-d ' CEuvres, 

Releves. 

Enlrees. 

Ponche h. la Romaine. 

Rbtis. 

Salade, 

Entremets. 
Dessert. 

Cafe Noir. 



English and American Form. 

Small Shellfish, uncooked. 

Soup. 

Fish and Large Shellfish, Turtle, and Terrapin. 

Small Side-dishes, and Relishes, cold. 

Removes of Boiled and Braised Meats, etc. 

Large Side-dishes, hot and cold. 

Frozen Punch. 

Meats, Game, and Poultry, roasted and broiled. 

Green Salads. 
j Dressed Vegetables. 
I Sweet Dishes, hot and cold. 

Ices, Jellies, Ice-creams, etc. Candied Fruits, 
Nuts, Cordials. 

Black Coffee, Liquetirs. 



The following is a fair ser\'ice a la Russe. The names of 
the dishes are given both in English and in that bill-of-fare 
French which is the despair of imsophisticated diners-out ; 
but the dishes themselves are admirable, and the selection 
of wines is worthy the approbation of an epicure. 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 1 23 



MENU. 



Chablis. 



Hiiitres ail citron. 



POTAGES. 

Amontillado. Bisque d^ccrevisses. Consomme h la royale. 



POISSONS. 

Saumon dti Kennebec, saitce Hollandaise. 



Chateau Yquem. 



Pommes Bermnde en boulettes. 

Petites Trtiites au naturel. 

Croquettes aux pommes. 



PONTET CANET. . 



HORSD'CEUVRES. 

Olives. Caviare en Canapes. Petit s boudins au Salpicon, 
Radis. Celeri. Amandes au Sel. Varies. 

RELEVES. 

Filet de Boeuf pique h la Milanaise, 
Selle d ''Agneau. 

ENTRIES. 

Poularde h la Toulousaine. 

Cbieletles d'' Agneau financilre. 

Concombres farcies h la mo'elle. 

Beignets de creme it la fleur d ''orange. 

SORBET. • 

Ponche it la Romaine. Ponche au Kirsch. 

ROTI. 

Dindonneaux truffcs h la Perigueux, 
Faisans garnis de bccassijies. 
Salade de celeri en t-etnoulade. 

ENTREMETS. 

Artickauts, Sauce au beiirre. 
Asperges en branches, Sauce Hollandaise. 

DESSERT. 

Bombe parfait au Cafe. . Nougat de faniaisie. 
Porto Dore. Gelee au Madlre. Violettes aux bonbons. 
Fromages. Cafe et Liqueurs. 
Champagne frappe en carafes sur table. 



Chambertin. 



124 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ENGLISH BILL OF FARE 

FOR DINNER A LA RUSSE. 



Blue Point Oysters with Lemon. 

SOUPS. 
Bisque of Prawns. Clear Soup vrith royale paste. 

FISH. 

Kennebec Salmon with Hollandaise Sauce. 

Mountain Brook Trout. 

Bermuda Potatoes. Potato Croquettes. 

RELISHES. 

Olives. Caviare Toast. Forcemeat Balls. Radishes. 

Celery. Salted Almonds. Small Pickles. 

REMOVES. 

Tenderloin of Beef, larded, Milanaise style. 
Saddle of Spring Lamb. 

SIDE DISHES. 

Pullet, Toulouse Style. 
Lamb Cutlets with jinanci}re garnish. 
Cucumbers stuffed with Marrow. 
, Orange-flower Cream Fritters. 

SHERBET. 
Roman Punch. Kirsch Punch. 

ROAST. 

Turkey with Perigord Traffles. 

Pheasants garnished with Snipe. 

Salad of Celery with remoulade Sauce. 

SECOND COURSE. SIDE DISHES. 

Artichokes with Butter Sauce. 
Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce. 

DESSERT. 

Coffee bombes. Fancv' Xougaf. Madeira Jelly. 

Candied Violets. Cheese. Coffee and Liqueurs. 

Frozen Champagne in carafes. 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FAKE, AND WINES. 1 25 
THE AMERICAN DINNER. 

This form of service combines the advantages of the two 
ah-eady described, and still preserves the genial hospitality 
impHed by the personal service of the guests by the hosts. 
None of the principal dishes are difficult to serve, and pla- 
cing them upon the table greatly adds to its pleasant aspect. 
The vegetables are brought in hot, at the moment of service, 
when the large dishes have been placed upon the table, and 
are at once passed by one of the waiters. This partial service 
by the hosts enables the waiters to serve more rapidly. All 
the dishes are brought to the dining-room door by the cook 
or kitchen-maid, so that the waiters need not leave the room ; 
and as all the necessary dishes, silver, wine, and the little 
dinner accessories, are placed upon the sideboard or in the 
hot-closet before the dinner is announced, there need be 
no such vexatious delay as occurs when the attendants are 
obliged to leave the room in search of something required 
upon the table. This routine, once understood, can easily 
be carried out, and prevents all confusion : it suits both plain 
and fine dinners, and enables one well-trained servant to wait 
upon a dozen guests with ease. 

The table is laid as for the dinner a la Russe, with the 
cotton- flannel and the dinner-cloth, which may be of plain 
white damask, or as elaborate as the fancy dictates. All the 
covers, relishes, confectionery, and small sweets are arranged 
in harmony with the decoration of flowers. The carafes of 
iced water, the wines which allow of decanting, and the 
shellfish are placed before the dinner is announced. Di- 
rectly the guests are seated, the first course of soup and fish, 
if there is but one service of each, is placed before the host 
and hostess ; when the service includes two soups, or tvvo 
dishes of any course, one is placed before the host, and the 
other before the hostess, the latter being given that which is 



126 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the least difificult to serve. When there is a double service, 
there must ])e two servants at least. As each plate is sup- 
plied by the host, the servant takes it from the left hand, and 
carries it to the left of the guest, together with the appropri- 
ate vegetable or relish. When wine is used, it is poured 
from the right hand of the guest, in the intervals of service 
i of the different courses. Directly all the guests are served, 
and the host has taken a portion from any dish, it is at once 
removed from the table, and replaced by the succeeding 
course. As each guest signifies his readiness to have his 
plate removed, — and he does this by laying the knife and 
fork side by side across the middle of the plate, with the 
handles to the right, — the waiter takes it away, and replaces 
it with a hot plate, and another knife and fork appropriate to 
the coming service, unless these are already upon the table. 
The knife and fork are upon the plate, and the guest at once 
lays them upon the table. As the waiter brings a plate con- 
taining a fresh service, he takes the guest's plate back to 
the host. After a vegetable or hot sauce has been passed, the 
dish containing it is set upon the sideboard, ready to be 
taken away. In a dinner of several courses, it is unusual for 
a guest to ask for any dish a second time ; but at a small 
family dinner the sauces and vegetables may be placed upon 
the table until the course to which they belong is removed. 
The plates of the host and hostess are taken away at the 
conclusion of each course. 

When the dessert is reached, all the glasses are taken 
away except the water-tumbler and the glass of the wine 
which the guest chooses to use during dessert; and the 
crumbs are removed from the cloth, with a broad-bladed 
silver knife, to a plate or small salver held in the left hand 
of the waiter. The knife is better for this purpose than a 
crumb-brush. The dessert-plate, containing a finger-bowl 
and dessert knife and fork, is then set before each guest, 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WL\ES. 12/ 

who at once removes the finger-bowl and its doily, and the 
knife and fork, to the table ; leaving the plate ready for the 
waiter either to take to the hostess, or for use for the small 
sweets. Coffee can be served at table or in the drawing- 
room ; and tea an hour after dinner, to the guests who re- 
main, or to others who arrive when an evening at home 
follows the dinner. 

The bill of fare following comprises a double senice ; 
except in the courses composed of terrapin and canvas- 
backs, when it would be gastronomic heresy to suggest the 
choice of any other dish. When either of these dainties is 
not available, or is not desired, they can be replaced by any 
chosen entree or roast. A mayonnaise sauce should be upon 
the table, with the choicest white celery, to use with canvas- 
back. Directions are given elsewhere for carving ducks, but 
a few words here will not be out of place. When the abun- 
dance of duck permits half the breast to be served to each 
guest, the matter is simple ; but when the supply is limited, 
the carving becomes a fine art : then several deep cuts 
should be quickly made on each side of the breast, down 
to the bone, but no slice removed until all are cut, for a 
point is made of serving canvas-back very hot ; the small bit 
of flesh called the "oyster" in poultry, which lies in a little 
hollow of the back-bone, between the leg and the wing, is 
considered by epicures the most delicious morsel in the entire 
bird. The use of melon at an early stage of the dinner is of 
course optional ; but either pine-apple iced and without sugar, 
cantelope, or watermelon is refreshing after a heavy soup or 
fish ; and both the latter make delicious salads, either with 
plain salad-dressing or with mayojinaise, as also does choice 
Florida grape fruit. In many of the larger cities the tropical 
fruit called the alligator pear is sold : it is a favorite salad in 
the East and W^est Indies, combined with mayonnaise ; and 
is also eaten with lime-juice or wine and sugar at dessert. 



128 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

BILL OF FARE FOR AMERICAN DINNER. 



Chambertin. 



C Blue Points, or Little Neck Clams on the half-shell. 
Sherry I Lemon, brown bread and butter. 

I Cream of Fresh Mushrooms. Terrapin Clear Soup. 
Madeira. ^ , ^ . , 

I Cantalope or Pmeapple. 

Broiled Pompano, Cucumber Sauce. 

Chateau Yquem. Fresh Salmon, Shrimp Sauce. 

Bermuda Potatoes.. 

Olives. Salted .A.lmonds. Cheese Straws. 

Claret. Breast of Spring Chicken with Cauliflower, Hollandaise 

Sauce. Cold Boned Squabs with Orange Salad. 

Madeira. Maryland Terrapin. 

Champagne Ice. 

f Canvas-back Ducks, Forest Citj- Sauce. 

I Celery. Fried Hominy. 

Lettuce Salad with Roquefort Cheese. 

Broiled Fresh Mushrooms. 

Asparagus with Mayonnaise. 

Cabinet Pudding with Rum Jelly. 

DESSERT. 

Cream Meringues. Candied Pineapple. 
Champagne. Philadelphia Ice Cream with Canton Ginger. 
Nuts. Crystallized Fruits. Cheese. 
Black Coffee. Cordials. 

Although the double course is given in all these bills of 
fare, it is neither imperative nor advisable except for large 
dinners : a simple, well-chosen ?netiu, of a few favorite 
dishes, one or two delicate wines when they are desired, or, 
for a family dinner, cider or some light malt beverage, will 
often prove more acceptable than an elaborate repast. An 
excellent little dinner, possible at any season, may be ar- 
ranged somewhat as follows ; several dishes are named for 
each course, so that the choice may be made of such dishes 
as the market affords. Wines are named ; but, as already 
indicated, their use is entirely a matter of choice. 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARF, AND WINES. 1 29 

BILL OF FARE. 



Chateau 

Yquem, 

185S. 



Verze- 

NAYE 
SEC. 



Chateau 
Larose, 



Oysters or Clams on the half-shell, very small. 

SOUP. 

Consomme, Terrapin Clear Soup, Potage h la Reine, or Bisque. 
Cantelope, Watermelon, Pineapple, Grape Fruit, or Oranges. 

FISH. 

Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Shad, Striped Bass, or Blue-Fish ; or, 

Boiled Salmon, Sheeps-head, Sea Bass, Turbot, or Trout : 

with Bermuda, Hollandaise, Duchesse, Parisienne, 

or Irish Potatoes. Cucumbers. 

RELISHES. 
Olives. Tunny-fish. Filets of Anchovies or Sardines. Stuffed 

Olives. Caviare. 
French Radishes. East India Gherkins. Salted Almonds. 

Cheese Straws. Pickles. 
Small Patties or Bouchees cold, with highly seasoned garnish of 

fish, poultry, or game. 

Fine Table-Sauces. Anchovy Butter. Celery. Small Raw 

Tomatoes. Choice Cheese. 

ENTRIES AND ENTREMETS. 
Vol-au-vents of poultry and game. Croquettes, Blanquettes, 

Scallops, Salmis. 
Sweetbreads, broiled, fried, or stewed, with Mushrooms, Peas, 

Asparagus, or Tomato Sauce. 
Chicken, fritot, broiled, Maryland style, with Mayonnaise, 

filets, and pinions saitte.es. 
Filet of beef, larded, with Mushrooms, Spaghetti, Stuffed 

Tomatoes, or vegetable garnish. 
Lamb Cutlets, breaded, truffled, en papillate, with Peas, Aspara- 
gus, or Cauliflower. 
Any Vegetable, stewed with a sauce. Fritters of Rice, Hominy, 

and Flour, with sauce. 

Sweet Puddings with sauces. Charlottes. Pastry. Jellies. 

Moulded Creams. 

Sorbet. Sherbet. Roman Punch. Champagne ^/ar^. 

ROAST. 
Any Game or Game Birds roasted, and served with a green salad. 

DESSERT. 
Ice Creams, with Canton Ginger. Water Ices. . Frozen Pud- 
dings of fruit and fine cake. Ices. Confectionerj. 
Candied fruit. Nuts. Foreign Preserves with- 
out sirup. Oriental Sweetmeats. Coffee. 



130 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



DINNER WINES. 

While there is no absolute rule which is invariably followed 
in the choice of dinner-wines, custom indicates the lightest 
as most acceptable at the beginning of the dinner ; the more 
stimulating, full-bodied wines are preferable from the rcleves 
or removes to the roast ; sweet, rich wines like the fine 
Burgundies and champagnes are suitable for the second - 
course ; the liqiiciirs and cordials are approved with the 
dessert ; and a dash of Cognac for the coffee, or a demi-tasse 
with the cafe noir, end the dinner satisfactorily. Sometimes 
at small, choice dinners, champagne ^lace ox frappe is served 
throughout ; this champagne is frozen in the original bottles, 
in the same manner as the frozen carafes, for about two 
hours, or until semi-liquid ; it is then poured into wide- 
mouthed flagons, which can be closed with a glass stopper, 
and served at once ; the half- frozen champagne will retain 
its consistency in the bottles or flagons for about fifteen or 
twenty minutes after it is removed from the freezer. 

As has already been said, the number of wines served 
depends upon the character of the dinner. At a small 
dinner, a good Bordeaux wine may be served throughout, 
flagons of it being placed upon the table slightly chilled ; 
carafes of water and cracked ice should also be on the table. 
A more pleasant effect is produced by serving champagne 
with the roast, the claret flagons remaining on the table. 
The best succession of wines at a small dinner is a white 
wine, such as Sauterne, or sherry, as far as the entrees ; then 
claret to the roast ; and, with and after the roast, iced 
champagne. As many glasses are placed before each guest 
as there are wines ; and they should be, as Ruskin says, 
"radiantly clean." Colored glasses are used for white and 
Rhine wines. Guests who take no wine may either turn 
down the glasses, or by a sign forbid the attendant filling 



FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 131 

them ; when the wine is poured but not drank, the fact is 
very conspicuous. The wines are poured from the right 
hand of the guest, the glasses not being quite filled : the 
servant mentions the name of each wine before he pours 
it, so that the guest may decline it if he wishes to do so. 
At a family dinner, ale may be served with crackers and 
cheese. 

At an elaborate dinner, a good succession of wines is as 
follows : upon the table, decanters of chilled sherry and 
Madeira, one of each being near enough to the host to 
permit him to pass them ; a good Bordeaux or claret in 
flagons, the wine having been slightly chilled before pouring 
t from the bottles. All the wines which are iced, and poured 
from the original bottles, should be held with a napkin. The 
Burgundies should be about the temperature of the room in 
winter, and of the outer air in summer ; the Sauternes should 
be slightly cooled, and poured from the original bottles. 
All the sparkling wines should be in coolers, in the original 
bottles ; a bottle of champagne in a cooler should be on 
the floor at the right side of the host. With the shellfish a 
white Burgundy or good Sauterne, such as Chablis or Cha- 
teau Yquem, is most acceptable ; the same wines, or sherry, 
with the soup ; if the soup is turtle or terrapin, punch or 
old Madeira is called for; with the fish, a good Sauterne, 
Moselle, or hock ; when large removes or releves are served, 
an old Madeira is in place ; with the entrees the claret 
comes, and after them the Roman punch or sorbet ; if any 
wine is served here, it should be Burgundy, which may 
remain during the service of the roast unless it is replaced 
with champagne iced in coolers ; with the large sweets, old 
port or Madeira is appropriate, and then all the large wine- 
glasses except the one in use should be removed. A warm 
wine is required when there are several iced sweets, and with 
ice-cream Canton ginger is acceptable ; with the candied 



132 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

fruit and nuts, the liqueurs and cordials are placed, with 
small glasses ; and brandy is served with black coffee. If 
any of the dinner-wines re-appear at dessert, fresh glasses 
are set upon the table with them, and a bottle is always 
placed near enough to the host for him to pass it. 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 

THE selection of guests for a dinner should be thought- 
fully made. Not only should social obligations and 
personal preferences be consulted, but also the individual 
characteristics of the guests ; for a disagreeable neighbor 
can destroy the entire enjoyment of the repast. A dinner 
is not the affair of a moment : it implies prolonged associa- 
tion. At a luncheon, where the time spent at table is short, 
at a garden-party, where change of companionship is possi- 
ble, at a dance, where the favorite partner can be secured at 
least once, no such nice discrimination is demanded, upon 
the part of the host, as at the dinner-table, where guests are 
placed in close proximity for hours. It is true that no intro- 
ductions need take place, except between guests who are to 
go down together, when they are not already acquaintances, 
or where there is on the part of the guests a natural desire 
for introduction to some distinguished person present ; but 
one takes the fact for granted that every guest at a friend's 
table is a desirable companion, and every one is at liberty 
to enter into conversation without a formal introduction. 
Although such desultory intercourse does not entail subse- 
quent recognition, it is the duty of the host to make sure 
that the passing intercourse leaves no unwelcome claims 
upon his guests. Then, too, those persons should be placed 
together whose conversation is likely to strike upon conge- 

'33 



134 PA'ACT/CAL AMKRICAX COOKF.NY. 

nial topics in the intervals of well-served courses. The 
guests see so little of the hosts, after the first salutation, that 
they are in a measure bound to replace themselves in the 
arrangement of their guests. While one would not place a 
chatterbox without taste beside a ' man inclined to pay the 
choice dish of the dinner the tribute of silent appreciation, 
nothing can be more wearisome than a long, elaborate dinner 
beside a person without smile or voice. It is true that a 
gourmand may find consolation in well-cooked dishes, but 
it is not in every house that these are served. To place a 
flippant guest beside an earnest one, a commonplace one 
next a poet, is to intensify the misery of ennui. The dinner- 
giver does not always invite " minds " to the feast, but the 
fact that guests have minds should not be forgotten. 

On the part of the host, a dinner-invitation imphes a 
desire for a certain social intimacy which is not involved in 
any other form of entertainment. One may give pleasant 
assurances of social happiness in the formal interchange of 
calls, or the slightly more personal intercourse of prolonged 
receptions or of evening affairs : these are agreeable ways 
of paying one's social debts. But to ask a friend to dinner 
means friendliness indeed ; for this reason, a dinner-invita- 
tion should be accepted only from those whose friendship is 
welcomed. It should always be returned during the social 
season ; that is, before people separate for the summer : if 
the recipient has not an establishment which admits of giving 
a dinner in return, a ride or drive in the country, or a good 
restaurant-dinner or a theatre-party in the city, is considered 
a social equivalent. There should be no delay in answer- 
ing a dinner invitation definitely : this gives the hostess an 
opportunity to fill the guest's place if the hospitality is 
declined. If the invitation is accepted, punctuality to the 
hour fixed for the dinner is imperative on the part of the 
guest. The tact of a .lady is to be appreciated, who, after 



THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. I 35 

an unforeseen hinderance, reached the house of her enter- 
tainers just as the last of the guests were entering the dining- 
room ; she dropped her wraps in the entrance-hall where 
her escort left his hat, and entered the dining-room with 
him at once, to the surprise and gratification of her hosts. 
The immediate acknowledgment of an acceptance to a 
dinner is, in the city a call within three days after the dinner, 
unless there is marked intimacy, in which case a longer time 
may be allowed to elapse ; but no circumstance of ordinary 
consequence should set aside this social form, even among 
intimate friends, for these little courtesies are the graces 
of friendship. In the country, where it is not easy to get 
about, more latitude in point of time is permissible ; unless 
an immediate return of hospitality is contemplated, any 
reasonable time may elapse before the call of acknowledg- 
ment is made. 

The most enjoyable dinners are those where every one 
is at ease. Given the fact that the selection of the guests is 
perfect, their number should not be greater for a private 
dinner than the hostess can render all requisite courtesies to. 
Then, too, every care should be taken, previous to the din- 
ner, to insure absolute ease on the part of the hosts. The 
comfort of guests depends upon equal and perfect service, 
as much as upon excellent cookery. As has been said 
already, one well-trained servant can attend to ten or twelve 
guests with the American dinner or the service a la Russe ; 
but if the service is English, or if the number of guests is 
larger, there should be one or more other servants ; and for 
elaborate dinners a butler should attend to the wine, direct 
the general table-routine, and, when not actually engaged, 
stand beside the host or hostess and watch to make sure 
that no person is unserved, because it is exceedingly awk- 
ward for a guest to ask for attention. The hostess so largely 
depends upon the servants for ease during the progress of 



136 PA'ACT/CAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the dinner, that she should, before it begins, make sure that 
they are entirely conversant with the wants of guests and 
the capacity of the establishment. This point is especially 
essential when temporary attendants are brought in : they 
should be well informed concerning all the facilities of the 
house which can in any way affect the comfort of the guests. 
These details of service as closely affect the perfection of 
dinner-giving as does the deportment of the hostess when 
she stands ready to receive her guests. 

If the resources of the establishment are limited, a per- 
fectly quiet entertainment should be given, the requirements 
of which come within the capacity of the household. A 
good hostess never inflicts the chance of failure upon her 
friends, and never makes experiments with her guests. Her 
servants know just what they have to do, and do not either 
cause delay by being unprepared, or make a noisy haste in 
performing their duties. If any accident occurs at the 
table, they know how to remedy it quietly ; and they do 
every thing necessary to the comfort of the hour, without 
prompting. If the hostess knows that .her servant will 
spread a fresh napkin over sauce spilled upon the cloth from 
a dish, or cover a claret-stain with salt, and conceal it with a 
napkin, she will naturally be easier than if she thinks such 
possible mishaps must go unremedied ; in a word, if she feels 
sure of her service, she can give every thought to the enter- 
tainment of her guests. All this is very easy to suggest : it 
is possible to accomplish if the hostess has tact and manage- 
ment, and sufficient good sense to limit her social ambition 
by her own ability to carry out her plans. She will never 
attempt to exceed her means in dispensing hospitahty : her 
table appointments will be abundant and suitable, even if 
they are simple. Her choice of dishes will be confined to 
those which she knows can be well made at home, or she 
will call in competent outside help to insure success in 



THE ETIQUETTE OE DIXXERS. 1 37 

specialties. She will never affront her gnests by serving a 
dish that is not absolutely good ; and, unless for very formal 
occasions, she will place before them delicacies such as she 
is famous for making or ordering. Unless they are intimate 
friends, she will not urge them to partake of her fare, or in- 
vite comments upon it ; but she can none the less stamp her 
dinners with her own individuality. The novice in dinner- 
giving should confine her first efforts within small bounds, 
beginning with few dishes, a very simple service, and a small 
number of guests; as she gains the confidence which follows 
frequent efforts, she can safely extend her hospitality ; but 
she should take care that it never becomes ostentatious. 
Efforts to make a lavish display are vulgar. The model 
hostess gives well-chosen guests the best of her fare, and so 
marks her superiority ; but the parveniie exhausts the market 
to overload a table, and yet fails to create enjoyable dinners. 
The formal dinner-invitation is a courtesy which a guest 
even of intimate standing has a right to expect from the 
hostess: it may either be written upon fine stationery, or 
engraved in script. The prevailing form is : — 



Mr. & Mrs 

request the pleasure of 

Mr. & Mrs _ 

company at dinner. 

yanuary Second, at Eight o'clock. 

No. soo Madison Avenue. 

The favor of an answer is requested. 



A written answer should be returned directly the invita- 
tion is received, using the same personal form that appears 
in the invitation. If the invitation is accepted, and any cir- 



I 38 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

cumstance arises to prevent attendance, the hostess should 
be informed at once ; but no trivial affair should be allowed 
to interfere. Formal invitations and replies to dinner-invi- 
tations should be sent by hand : other invitations may go by 
post. After a dinner a call is imperative : a card is not a 
proper acknowledgment. Invitations to dinners of more 
than ten persons should go out two weeks in advance of the 
date chosen. A husband is never invited without his wife, 
or vice versa, unless one is known to be an invalid or out of 
society, except where there is sufficient intimacy to warrant 
this departure from formality when some expected guest dis- 
appoints at the last moment : the affair should always be 
clearly understood even then. 

The social duties of the hostess are too clearly defined to 
admit of any deviation from them ; but according to the 
number of her guests, and the degree of intimacy with 
them, she may give them more or less personal attention, — 
the fact being understood, that there is ample attendance to 
insure every one's comfort ; after that, she may permit her- 
self to take some degree of pleasure in the society of her 
special favorites, although she never may give any one but 
the guest of honor such attention as to be conspicuous. At 
least half an hour before the time named for dinner, the 
hostess should be dressed and ready to receive her guests, 
although they are not expected to arrive much before the 
dinner-hour. Her place should be near enough the door to 
permit her to welcome each one who enters. To the ladies 
she says a pleasant word, and establishes them comfortably, 
chatting with them betvveen the arrivals ; to every gentlemr.n 
she at once indicates the lady whom he is to take in to din- 
ner, introducing him if the parties are strangers. At large 
and formal dinners, each gentleman, as he passes from the 
entrance-hall to the drawing-room, receives from an attend- 
ant a small envelope, presented upon a salver, containing a 



THE ETIQUETTE OF DEVNERS. 1 39 

card bearing the name of the lady he is expected to escort, 
and usually a small boiitonniere : if he does not know the 
lady, he must at once inform the hostess so that the neces- 
sary introduction can take place. The short interval be- 
tween the arrival of the guests and the service of the dinner 
may be spent in greeting acquaintances and in pleasant chat 
about passing events or subjects of general interest : all din- 
ner-talk should be light and amusing, but even common- 
place is more acceptable than silence. The wise ones avail 
themselves of this opportunity to approach those to whom 
they wish to speak, because they know that during dinner 
conversation is possible only between neighbors, and after it 
is over all are likely to be engrossed in following up dinner- 
table topics, or the departure of guests may render inter- 
course impossible. 

When all the guests have arrived, a sen^ant opens the 
dining-room door when it adjoins the drawing-room ; or 
otherwise he approaches the hostess, and says, " Dinner is 
served," or " Madame is served." The host then leads the 
way to the dining-room, with the oldest or most distinguished 
lady present upon his arm. No delay is made for guests, 
unless they are of much importance : it is the imperative duty 
of a guest to be punctual ; far better to exceed in earliness 
than to be one moment late. In the dining-room, the ser- 
vant draws out the chair of the guest of honor, or that of the 
lady whom the host escorts : if there are attendants enough, 
the chairs of all the guests may be drawn out, and replaced 
by the attendants as the guests are seated. All seat them- 
selves as they enter the room, each gentleman assisting the 
lady he escorts when there are not enough servants to place 
the chairs. i\s the guests arrange themselves comfortably 
at the table, they may unfold their napkins, and begin to eat 
the shellfish, without waiting until all are placed when the 
number is at all large. Usually there is no formal beginning, 



140 PKACTICAL AMER/CAX COOKER Y. 

except at private dinners when some ceremonial of grace 
preludes the repast : taste and custom regulate these mat- 
ters. In entering the dining-room after the host, there is 
no special order of precedence in America, unless the chief 
magistrate or some locally honored personage is present : 
ordinarily the gentleman who is the guest of honor goes into 
the dining-room last, with the hostess, and is seated at her 
right. If the table is small,- the host indicates the places 
the guests are to occupy as they enter the room ; if the 
party is large, a little menu-czxd. is placed at each cover, 
bearing the name of the guest for whom it is designed. 
After the shellfish is eaten, the lady who is escorted by the 
host, and who sits at his right hand, is served first, then the 
other ladies, and after them the gentlemen : each guest may 
begin to eat as soon as served. The routine of the dinner 
has been given elsewhere. 

At the close of the dinner, the hostess bows to the lady at 
the right of the host, who rises and opens the door for her, 
and she leads the way out of the dining-room, the other 
ladies following her, and the hostess going last : this, of 
course, is at large formal dinners, otherwise there is no spe- 
cial form imperative. It is a graceful courtesy for the gen- 
tlemen to rise as the ladies leave the table, and assist them 
with their chairs. Sometimes they prefer to accompany 
them to the drawing-room ; but if any remain at the table, 
the host must stay with them, and see that they are served 
with wine or cordials, and coffee and cigars. It is of course 
understood, in polite society, that no excess is tolerated ; and 
any young man showing any inclination to pass the limits 
of moderation very soon finds himself tabooed. The use of 
wiae at ordinary dinners is a matter of solely personal pref- 
erence, but at state dinners its absence would be an affront 
to the guests. 

In the drawing-room, the hostess should always chat a 



THE ETIQUETTE OE D/XA'EA'S. 141 

little with all her guests, even if the number is large ; but she 
should pay special attention to strangers. If there is any 
lady present accomplished in any way, the hostess may re- 
quest her to assist in entertaining the others ; and compli- 
ance on the part of the guest should be immediate and 
cheerful, unless there is some grave reason for declining. 
The hostess may omit such requests for assistance, without 
implying any offence. In the case of guests who are pro- 
fessionally distinguished, this question of entertainment 
should always be previously understood, because sometimes 
there are objections to their contributing to the evening's 
amusement. After the gentlemen enter the drawing-room, 
tea should be served, and then the guests are at liberty to 
depart; but where strict social propriety is preserved, no 
one should leave until after the guest of honor has gone. 
As each guest takes leave of the hostess, a few words should 
be said in acknowledgment of the enjoyment of a pleasant 
evening, without any reference to the dinner itself. The call 
after the dinner should be made in due time, as also should 
the reciprocating hospitality. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE ETIQUETTE OF VARIOUS ENTERTAIN- 
MENTS. 

LARGE BREAKFASTS. 

AS breakfasts are far less expensive than dinner-parties, 
and as the time chosen, between nine and twelve 
o'clock, is generally less full than the evening hours, these 
entertainments are greatly favored by people of leisure. In 
common with luncheons, they afford a pleasant and available 
form of hospitality which gentlemen without establishments 
can offer to their lady friends. The etiquette is very simple : 
an informal written invitation, sent either by hand or post, 
to which there is an immediate corresponding response, and 
a return entertainment durifig the season, when the breakfast 
is given by a lady, fulfil all requirements. The toilet for 
guests is a walking costume, and for the host a quiet morn- 
ing toilet. The place of the entertainment may be in one's 
own house, or at any well-known restaurant. 

The table should be laid in a sunny, cheerful room, with 
spotless linen and china, and polished glass and silver. The 
table arrangement for an elaborate breakfast is the same as 
for dinner, except that no soup is served, and the coffee and 
tea equipages are placed upon the table. Bread, butter, 
relishes, condiments, fruit and flowers, are upon the table ; 
the hot dishes are upon the sideboard in chafing-dishes, or 
are served hot from the kitchen in courses, according to the 
preference of the host. Hot breads come to the table with 
142 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMEl^TS. 1 43 

a napkin thrown over them, as also do baked potatoes, frit- 
ters, fried cakes, scallops, gratins, breaded chops, croquettes, 
and all dishes which would be impaired by having moisture 
fall upon them as it condenses on china or silver covers. 
Dry toast should be served in a rack, or the slices set on 
edge on a hot plate, and only a small quantity made and 
served at once ; it should be delicately brown and crisp ; 
buttered toast should be set in the oven for a moment after 
it is made, and then served covered with a hot napkin ; milk- 
toast should be served in a covered dish, from which the 
cover should be lifted quickly and reversed at once to pre- 
vent the condensed steam falling back upon the toast. But- 
ter should be cut in small squares, or moulded, and kept in 
ice-water or upon a cake of ice until it is served. Boiled 
eggs should be served very hot the moment they are done, 
and eaten from the shell with a spoon : in America the cus- 
tom prevails of breaking the eggs into a glass or cup before 
eating them. The shells of eggs should be washed in cold 
water before they are boiled. Fruit is placed upon the table 
and eaten as the guests desire. The whole fruits, such as 
apples, oranges, bananas, cherries, and melons, are usually 
eaten at the beginning of the repast ; and those which re- 
quire sugar, such as berries, pine-apples, and peaches, are 
taken towards its close. The cereals, such as oatmeal, 
hominy, and cracked wheat, are eaten after the whole fruit, 
with sirup, cream, or preserves. The coffee, chocolate, 
cocoa, and tea are taken at the guests' pleasure. After the 
fruit and cereals come the small meats, eggs, and garnished 
side-dishes of fish, game, and poultry. The breakfast closes 
with the fried cakes, and cut fruit with sugar, or berries, ac- 
cording to the season. 

When wines are used at breakfast, they should be Sau- 
ternes, white Burgundy, hock, or claret. 

A good breakfast, of medium extent, would be as follows : — 



144 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

BILL OF FARE. 



Cantelope or Oranges. 

Broiled Fish with Stewed and Saratoga Potatoes. 

Maryland Chicken with Cream Gravy and Hominy. 

Iced Oatmeal with Cream. Olives. 

Small Tenderloin Steaks with Watercresses and Radishes. 

Omelette with Mushrooms. 

Waffles. Pone. Rice Cakes with Maple Sirup. 

Peaches iced and sugared. 

THE FAMILY BREAKFAST. 

This meal is second only in importance to the dinner, es- 
pecially when any extreme mental labor is demanded of the 
members of the family. The importance of early and sub- 
stantial breakfasts is emphasized in the writings of the au- 
thor upon sanitary matters, and consequently such repetition 
here is unnecessary ; but of the fact that the housekeeper 
should personally superintend and be present at this meal, 
there can be no question. If the breakfast is unsatisfactory, 
a man half hungry or exhausted will generally have recourse 
to some tonic stimulant to carry him through his morning 
work ; and a second thought is not needed to realize the 
consequence of such a custom. Our national habits demand 
that the breakfast shall be hot and abundant, and that 
there shall be such successive variety that the appetite shall 
always be stimulated. Fresh fruit in season, or that pre- 
served with little or no sugar, or radishes, cucumbers, toma- 
toes, watercress, or lettuce, should make a part of every 
breakfast if obtainable. Oatmeal, cracked wheat, or some 
form of hominy or corn-meal, with cream, milk, sugar, or 
sirup, is indispensable when the family includes children. 
Coffee, chocolate, and cocoa are suitable breakfast bever- 
ages, but tea is undesirable. Meat, eggs, or fish, in some 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTEK TA /.VME.VTS. 1 45 

hot form, should always be served, and potatoes or variety 
in breads are desirable. Nearly all American breakfasts in- 
clude some form of hot fried cakes with sirup or sugar. 

The family breakfast-table is laid with the coffee-service 
at the head of the table ; the largest hot dish at the other 
end ; a knife, fork, spoon, glass, napkin, small bread-and- 
butter plate, and salt, at each cover; and the side-dish, 
breads, and fruit at convenient places upon the table. When 
fruit is served first, as a separate course, it may be placed 
before the other dishes are brought in, with a special plate, 
fruit-knife, and napkin, and a finger-bowl for each cover, 
which are to be removed before the breakfast is served. 

When there are not many servants, the care of the break- 
fast-table falls upon the ladies of the family ; and there 
should be preparations made for clearing away the table, and 
washuig all but the greasy dishes in the breakfast-room. A 
side-table is necessary for this, or a large butler's tray, upon 
which the dishes can be gathered in regular piles or groups 
after they are freed from the remains of the breakfast. Any 
dishes removed from the table in the course of the meal can 
be placed there, being protected from flies if they contain 
food which can be used again ; the plates and saucers in 
little piles, the cups and glasses in groups, and the spoons, 
knives, and forks in a tray. 

To wash the dishes, a small wooden tub or a tin pan, with 
a little mop or a clean dishcloth, soap, and plenty of hot 
water for washing and rinsing, are required. The glasses are 
to be washed first, rinsed in warm water, and dried at once 
on clean towels ; then the cups and saucers and the sauce- 
dishes ; next the silver ; and finally the dishes and empty 
platters, all scraps of food having first been removed from 
them. The washing-water should be changed frequently, 
and a little borax or washing-soda dissolved in it to facilitate 
the removal of the grease. When a butler's pantry adjoins 



146 PRACTICAL AMERFCAN COOKERY. 

the breakfasl-room, tlie dishes are always washed there ; the 
same care being exercised in keeping the sink clean as in 
the kitchen. Dishes removed to the kitchen to be washed 
should be just as neatly and carefully treated as'in the pantry 
or breakfast-room : after the dishcloths and towels are used, 
they should be thoroughly washed m hot soapy water, rinsed 
in hot clean water, and dried in the sun or at least m the 
open air. 

FAMILY LUNCHEON. 

The range for family luncheon is as elastic as that for more 
formal occasions. In the country, and also in town where 
there are children in the family, it often takes on the form 
of a simple dinner ; in that case, the service is as for dinner, 
the dessert-service and tea and coffee being upon the side- 
board. If the luncheon is plain, the service is the same as 
for breakfast. The suitable dishes are small hot meats, fish, 
game-birds, poultry, dressed salads, all forms of potatoes and 
eggs, bread and butter, cheese and crackers, vegetables, fruit, 
and sweets. A servant may attend, or any one may rise 
from the table to fetch what is required. 

In the country, or where the luncheon is practically the 
children's dinner, the service should include soup or bouillon 
if possible ; the latter is served in shallow bowl-shaped cups, 
the former in small soup-plates. A hot joint, with one cold 
meat if desired in addition, potatoes boiled or baked, and 
one or more hot vegetables, together with a simple dessert, 
gives a good luncheon variety. The covers are laid as for 
dinner, with napkin and bread, two knives and forks, a 
spoon, water-glass, and salt ; if one wine is used, it may be 
claret or sherry at the family luncheon, or some malt bever- 
age or cider may replace the tea or coffee, at the choice of 
the family. Among intimate friends an invitation to lunch- 
eon may be general, or it is quite proper for them to claim 
hospitality without it. 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 1 47 
LUNCHEON PARTIES. 

Luncheons are essentially ladies' parties, usually given by 
ladies in their own homes ; sometimes an informal lunch is 
given at some restaurant celebrated for some special dish, 
but the preference is for the home entertainment. The in- 
vitations are the same as for breakfasts. The table is laid as 
for dinner, save that the linen may be embroidered or col- 
ored ; and any dinner form of service may be followed, save 
that some of the courses are omitted. At an informal 
luncheon, all the dishes may be placed upon the table at 
once, after the shellfish and bouillon are eaten ; and then the 
attendants may be sent from the room if the guests w^ish to 
be alone with the hostess. Fruit, flowers, and relishes may 
be used in decorating the table, together with any sweets not 
iced : these are to be served at the moment of eating. Bon- 
bons, preserves, and confectionery are in place on the lunch- 
table. The bill of fare may range from crackers and cheese 
and ale, to a menu elaborate enough for a little dinner. The 
formal luncheon begins with bouillon or broth served in china 
bowl-shaped cups standing in saucers, or with a dinner-soup 
served in a soup-plate ; next come the hot entrees, combi- 
nation salads, terrapin ; and then Roman punch, and the 
broiled game with green salad ; and last the sweets and fruit. 
Chocolate is an appropriate luncheon beverage, as also are 
malt liquors for plain lunches. The luncheon wines are 
Sauterne, sherry, and Champagne ; or the different summer 
beverages, such as claret-cup and its kindred, may be used ; 
or wine may be omitted altogether, at choice. The formal 
luncheon is served like the dinner a la Russe, the attendant 
beginning the service with the lady at the right hand of the 
hostess. The guest's preference is asked in the matter of 
wine ; the plates are changed as at dinner, cold ones being 
used for salad and dessert ; finger-bowls are placed with the 



148 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

dessert, after the table has been cleared. When fresh sug- 
ared or small fruits are used, they are served in fancy saucers 
set on a napkin laid in a dessert-plate ; and a silver knife, 
fork, and spoon are placed beside the plate as it is laid upon 
the table by the waiter. Ice-creams and ices serv^ed in small 
paper cases are also placed upon a napkin in a dessert-plate. 
Berries are eaten from the stem or with a spoon ; cut sugared 
fruits with a spoon ; melons with knife and fork or a spoon, 
according to their solidity ; grapes are eaten from the fingers, 
and care is taken to delicately place the seeds and skins 
upon the plate. Hard cheese is eaten with a fork or from 
the fingers ; the soft, rich kinds may be put upon a biscuit 
or piece of bread with the knife, and so lifted to the mouth. 
Salads are eaten with the fork, a knife being used to divide 
them. At the earlier stages of the repast, the fork is used 
for croquettes, vegetables, fish, and small carved entrees, the 
knife being used only when absolutely necessary for cutting. 

Luncheon favors, which are to be carried away by the 
guests, may consist of bonbonniei-es, fans, httle bags or bas- 
kets, flowers in fancy holders, bouquet-pins, W(?«/^-holders 
when there are bills of fare, or any pretty trifle. 

The invitations to small luncheons may be written on the 
ordinary note-paper, or engraved in script on cards when 
the affair is to be formal. 

The following is a good memi of a luncheon of moderate 
size : — 

BILL OF FARE. 

Boiiillo7i. 

Lobster Cliops with Tomato Sauce. 

Cucumbers. Olives. Radishes. Crackers and Cheese. 

Mayonnaise of Chicken. Vol-au-vent of Oysters. 

Breast of Grouse broiled, with Orange Salad. 

Lettuce Salad. Roquefort Cheese. Toasted Crackers. 

Bavarian Cream. Noyeau Jelly. Ttttti Frtdti. 

Chocolate. Fruit. Bonbons. 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 1 49 
AFTERNOON RECEPTIONS. 

The double motive of securing the visits of pleasant 
friends, and of massing together such tedious ones as might 
be unwelcome, leads many ladies to choose a day for the 
reception of visitors. The time is specified upon the visit- 
ing-cards which are used with those to whom one desires to 
be "at home." The form may be " At home Wednesdays,''^ 
" Wednesdays, 4 to 6," or, when it is desirable to limit the 
time, " Wednesdays in December ; " the day, hour, or month 
being chosen with reference to other social duties or occu- 
pations. Very often married ladies invite some young friend 
to receive with them, and in that case the young lady's name 
appears upon the card of the hostess : — 



Mrs. C/iar/es Adams, 

Miss Brewster, 

at ^ame 

Wednesday, December Second, from 4 to 6. 
sq West 41st Street. 



The receipt of a card bearing a date like this is an invita- 
tion to the recipient ; if the hour named is in daylight, the 
costume called for is a quietly elegant carriage-toilet or 
walking-dress, with an appropriate bonnet and wrap. Cards 
are not left by the callers unless there is a card-receiver in 
the entrance- hall ; in that case the card is left there when 
the guest departs. As the servant opens the door, the visit- 
ors pass at once into the drawing-room, where the hostess 
receives : her dress should be a fresh but not too elaborate 
home toilette. Callers are not necessarily introduced, but 



I50 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



they are at liberty to chat with each other, because discrimi- 
nation in the distribution of cards is taken for granted ; and 
the hostess must manage to entertain all with equal atten- 
tion ; in order to assist the hostess in this rather difficult 
positicHi, the call should be short. If it is impossible to call 
upon set days, the visitor should be content to leave her card, 
as only decided intimacy warrants the recjuest to see a lady 
except upon her " days." When refreshments are served at 
these afternoon receptions, they should be quite simple ; a 
few fancy biscuit ox petit-fours, with wine or cordial, may be 
upon a side-table where one of the ladies of the family pre- 
sides, or they may be passed upon a small salver by a maid- 
servant. Cake and lemonade, or very dainty sandwiches 
and tea, may be used at discretion ; in any case the refresh- 
ment must be light, otherwise the reception takes on the 
appearance of a kettle-drum. 

AFTERNOON TEAS. 

The pleasantest of all informal social gatherings are those 
known as teas, high teas, and kettle-drums ; sometimes they 
take their name from some special characteristic, such as the 
color of the tea-equipage or of the napery or the flowers, 
lovely effects being possible. The hostess invites a few 
friends, either verbally or by an informal note ; or, when 
these entertainments are to be frequent, she may save her- 
self trouble by having a card engraved in script, with blanks 
for dates : — 



Mrs. George Morris, 

Wednesday, 

No. J U'esi z^d St. Tea at Five o'clock. 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMEA'TS. 151 

When young ladies receive, their names appear on their 
mother's card ; if the mother is dead, upon the father's 
card, and the card of the chaperone who is to assist them 
is sent at the same time. The invitations are given about 
three days in advance, and should receive the courtesy of a 
written answer ; after the tea, a card should be left within 
two or three days by those invited as well as by the guests, 
unless the latter are intimate, when the call may be omitted, 
but the tea must be returned in due season. The hostess 
usually invites friends, or those whom she knows wish to 
become acquainted. The proper toilet is the same as for 
afternoon-receptions. If the tea-table is large, it may be 
laid with an embroidered cloth with napkins to match ; 
ornamented china and flowers may be used. Where the 
large table is used, and there are several ladies to assist in 
entertaining the guests, they may be seated at it ; but when 
the hostess presides alone, it is more c^onvenient and -pleas- 
ant to have the tea serv-ed from a side-table by the servants, 
to little tables placed near groups of guests in different parts 
of the room. Some of these little tables are provided with 
an under-shelf which is available for an extra plate or cup. 
The ornamentation of the small tables is often beautiful in 
the extreme, as they are a favorite medium for displaying the 
skill of the hostess in embroidery, or her taste in the choice 
of harmonious surroundings. 

Some teas take their title from a specialty of ornamenta- 
tion : for instance, at a pink tea the prevailing color in table- 
linen, china, and flowers, would be pink ; at a rose tea, 
rose-color would exceed, and the flowers would be roses, in- 
cluding a corsage bouquet for each guest, or a choice flower 
in the winter season. The tea should consist of thin bread 
and butter, delicate sandwiches and relishes, and some very 
good tea. The finer brands of Chinese and Russian tea can 
now sometimes be obtained in this country. A favorite 



152 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

English mixture is one pound of Congo to a quarter of a 
pound each of Assam and Orange Pekoe ; another delicious 
tea mixture which is sent to Eastern friends from ladies in 
San Francisco is the Chinese Kettle-drum brand. Cake, 
coffee, oysters, or dressed salads may be served if desired ; 
but the table should never be overloaded, or exhibit an osten- 
tatious display. 

FAMILY TEAS. 

At family teas, or suppers, the table is laid in the same 
way as for breakfast, except that the tea-equipage replaces 
that used for coffee ; unless the tray is of silver, it is now 
the custom to lay the cups and saucers upon the tablecloth, 
and place the rest of the service towards the right hand and 
in front of the hostess. The usual dishes are small hot 
breads, toast, preserves or honey, cake, bread and butter, 
cheese, with either cold or hot meat, game, or eggs in some 
form. The service is always quiet and informal. 

GENTLEMEN'S SUPPERS. 

As ladies entertain their intimates at luncheons, so gentle- 
men delight in special suppers, — fish-suppers, game-suppers, 
oyster-suppers, or general entertainments where the }}ie7iu 
embraces all the delicacies of the season. As the hostess 
never appears at these suppers, they can be made absolutely 
perfect if she is a good housewife. They may either be 
parties of invitation, the guests being notified three or four 
days in advance, or impromptu when the scope of one's 
establishment permits a sudden accession in numbers. The 
hour chosen is generally late, after a card-party or a visit to 
some place of amusement. The table appointments may be 
the same as for breakfasts or luncheons, according to the 
service of tea and coffee or wine. There should always be 
black coffee served from the side-table, some flowers and 
fruit, plenty of light, and wine at discretion or claret- or 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 1 53 

champagne-cup in summer. The dishes suitable for gentle- 
men's suppers are hot and cold entrees, the latter being 
small and highly seasoned, plenty of relishes, salads with 
mayonnaise, shellfish and game of all kinds, Welsh rarebits 
and other forms of cheese, crackers, scalloped and devilled 
dishes, and a few sweets if the party is large. Unless the 
occasion is some special one, all formality of service is dis- 
pensed with, the dishes all being placed upon the table at 
the beginning of the supper, the hot ones over chafing-dishes, 
and the attendants leaving the room after the first service. 
Malted beverages may be substituted for wine, or tea, coffee, 
and chocolate used at the pleasure of the guests. 

SUPPER PARTIES. 

At the set supper, whether it follows an evening at the 
theatre or an entertainment at home, or whether it is made 
the subject of special invitation, the service is either that of 
the luncheon for informal affairs, or that of the dinner a la 
Russe, in courses with appropriate wines, except that no soup 
is used, either bouillon or stewed oysters replacing it. Oysters 
in any form and in variety are appropriate at all suppers, ex- 
cept that raw oysters are not usually served at ball-suppers. 
A plain supper may consist of a dish of oysters, a cold roast 
chicken, and a salad ; one wine, or punch, or tea or coffee at 
pleasure. A hot supper, a little more elaborate, might be of 
bouillon, sweetbreads with peas, asparagus, or mushrooms, hot 
broiled or roasted game, a salad, an ice, champagne and cof- 
fee, and some bonbons. Still another, more extensive, might 
be bouillon, small hot entrees of oysters, %\stt\}o\Q2A%,foie-gras, 
and terrapin ; game with salad, and a little rich old cheese ; 
then jellies, ices, fruit, coffee, and a liqueur or brandy. The 
best light supper drinks are the different " cups ; " the favorite 
supper wines are sherry, Madeira, Burgundy, and champagne ; 
the winter beverages are mulled wine, eggnog, and punch. 



154 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

At all suppers the host takes the most distinguished or the 
oldest lady present to the supper-room ; the guests follow 
without any special precedence ; and the hostess comes last, 
having with her the guest to whom she wishes to pay the 
most attention. The servants do not leave the supper-room 
unless all the dishes are placed upon the table at once : in 
that case, they may be dismissed after the first service of 
the guests. 

EVENING PARTIES. 

At evening parties where the entertainment is dancing, or 
music and conversation, the refreshment may be elaborate 
or simple as the hostess chooses ; cake, chocolate, and ices 
are suitable, or sherry and biscuit, or a bowl of punch and 
little cakes ; or a table may be arranged with white linen, 
flowers, fruit, salads, and cold entrees, ice-cream and cake, 
ices, punch, eggnog, tea, coffee, wine, claret-cup, or cham- 
pagne, as one's inclination or means dictate. From the sim- 
plest to the most elaborate the range is permissible, always 
with the intent to escape vulgar profusion. The collation 
may be served at any hour after ten o'clock if there is a set 
table ; or it may be upon a side-table if simple, to be par- 
taken of at the desire of the guests. 

CINDERELLA PARTIES. 

The popular English entertainments called Cinderella- 
parties are simply evening dances beginning at an early hour, 
say nine o'clock, and ending at midnight. The dress, re- 
freshments, and etiquette are the same as for ordinary even- 
ing parties. The invitations are " at home " cards, with the 
hour and date written in, and " Cinderella Dancing " written 
or printed in one corner, at the choice of the hostess : the 
invitations are sent out at a length of time in advance 
corresponding to the importance of the entertainment. 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAEYMENTS. 1 55 
CARD PARTIES. 

These parties are good amusements for evenings in au- 
tumn and winter. They are usually conjposed of intimates : 
the entire service is informal, and very little of the burden 
of entertainment falls upon the hosts. And only the lightest 
of refreshments are necessary : they should be of such nature 
as to permit partaking of them without interfering with the 
games ; either sherry and biscuit, claret-cup, or tea and cof- 
fee, with little cakes, or ale, crackers and cheese, are suita- 
ble and sufficient ; they may be served from a side-table, or 
placed upon little tables near the guests as at afternoon teas. 
Claret-cup is made either in a fancy flagon or pitcher of 
glass, or in a large silver " loving-cup " holding over a quart, 
made in the form of a high vase, richly engraved and decor- 
ated ; when the beverage is drank as a " loving-cup," a large, 
fine white napkin is placed in one of the handles, for the 
purpose of wiping the edge of the cup after each guest 
drinks from it. When cards are objectionable, dominoes, 
checkers, or chess may replace them ; the purpose of all 
such games being social amusement. 

CALLING DURING ENTERTAINMENTS. 

When a chance caller arrives at a house while any enter- 
tainment is going on, to which guests have been invited, it 
is perfectly permissible for the hostess to be " not at home ; " 
this excuse, given by the serx^ant at the door, should never 
be made a subject of social comment or offence, because the 
hostess has a right to decide what friends she shall select to 
partake of any form of pleasure, or for the discharge of her 
social obhgations. 

NEW YEAR'S RECEPTIONS. 

The once favorite receptions are gradually falling out of 
use, but a few hints may be given for those who wish to 



156 PRACTICAL AM ERIC Ay COOKERY. 

pursue tlie old custom. It is quite proper to offer only hot 
coffee and a sandwich ; or one wine and a plain cake or 
biscuit ; a bowl of punch, a tureen of hot bouillon, and a 
salad and some cold game or a galantine ; or hot oysters or 
terrapin and Madeira : any of these are suitable ; but the 
service should be simple in the extreme, one maid attending 
at the table or sideboard. At the door a maid or a man 
may attend. The caller upon entering sends in his card, 
unless he is a rather intimate friend, in which case he enters 
the drawing-room at once, and leaves his card when he de- 
parts, upon the card-receiver in the hall, ^^'hen ladies do 
not wish to receive, a small basket is placed outside the door 
for callers to drop their cards into. 

WEDDING RECEPTIONS AND BREAKFASTS. 

The invitations are in the name of the parents or of the 
surviving parent, engraved in script upon note-paper. The 
prevailing form is : — 



Mr. &= Mrs. Francis Adams 

Request the pleasure of your Company at the 

Wedding of their Daitghter 
to 

At tJie Chnrch of the Trinity, 

On Wednesday, February Fourteenth, 

At One o'clock. 



The cards of the bride and bridegroom are enclosed with 
the invitation to the wedding ; the invitation to the reception 
or breakfast is engraved upon a separate card, and enclosed 



THE ETIQUETTE OE EXTERTAEVME.VTS. l^y 

in the same en\elope. The invitations to wedding-breakfasts 
are sent out two weeks in advance, and tlae reply must be as 
immediate and formal as for a dinner. At wedding-recep- 
tions, a servant should be at the door of the drawing-room 
to announce the names of callers, whose cards, bearing an 
address, must be left in the hall ; gentlemen leave their hats 
in the hall when there is a breakfast. Invited guests must 
either attend the reception, or send cards within ten days, 
call personally within the season or the year, and if possible 
entertain the newly wedded pair within three months. At 
a reception, the refreshments may be a cake and one wine, 
but no tea or coffee is served even at a full breakfast. The 
wedding-breakfast may consist of bouillon, wine at choice, 
salads, small game, shellfish, ices, creams, and jellies ; the 
wedding-cake is set before the bride, who cuts the first slice ; 
boxes of the same kind of cake are upon the table for the 
guests to take, but they are no longer sent out. The ladies 
w^ar their bonnets to wedding receptions and breakfasts, and 
when the room is limited the breakfast is usually a " stand- 
up " affair. 

After the return from the wedding-tour, the bride and 
groom are given dinners at the houses of both their families 
and of the bridesmaids. They need not entertain in return, 
except by set reception-days ; then the refreshments may 
be tea and cake upon trays or little tables, or the service of 
a high tea or a kettle-drum. 

For silver and golden weddings, the entertainment may 
be simple or elaborate at the wish of the hosts. The invita- 
tions are " at home " cards, with date and " Silver Wedding " 
engraved upon them, or they may be in script on note-paper. 
Among the collation there should be a wedding-cake con- 
taining a ring. 

When introductions take place at any entertainment, 
the hostess should introduce the younger to the elder, and the 



158 PNACr/CAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

least distinguished person to the celebrity, first being sure 
that the introduction is desired by both parties. At large 
teas, receptions, and garden-parties, general introductions are 
out of the question : but the guests are at liberty to converse 
without them ; they do not necessarily involve themselves in 
future intercourse thereby, nor do they by watering-place 
introductions unless they are desired. 

COUNTRY-HOUSE PARTIES. 

The entertainment of guests at country houses demands 
much more hospitable feehng and versatility of attainments 
than the courtesy of city party-giving, which taxes the host 
for only a few hours. To the pleased guest at a country 
house, the agreeable visit may easily lengthen into weeks 
unless a limit has been set in the invitation ; but what seems 
to him an unbroken round of natural pleasures may have 
severely taxed the hospitable ingenuity of the entertainer, so 
that a visit should never be extended unless the guest has 
every assurance that it is desired. All enjoyment under such 
circumstances depends upon the prevalence of harmony of 
tastes and feeling among the guests ; for, despite the fact 
that many out-door amusements and occupations engross 
them during the day, every evening re-unites them. If their 
selection for a three-hour dinner requires tact and thought, 
how much more is demanded when the arrangement is for 
the long and informal association which country life implies ! 

In inviting guests to a country house, the date and dura- 
tion of the visit should be defined ; and, when the invitation 
is accepted, the hostess should at once advise the guest of 
the most convenient way of reaching her house, giving the 
hours for trains if the expected arrival is to be by rail, and 
having a carriage at the depot upon the arrival of the train, 
unless the party of guests coming at once is very large ; in 
that case, etiquette does not require the hostess to send car- 



THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 1 59 

riage if there are any public conveyances, although it is a 
graceful courtesy to do so. It is not imperative to welcome 
the guests at the station, but the hostess should, if possible, 
be at home when they reach the house : if they come in 
turn, after the departure of others, and if she is absent from 
the house pending the entertainment of resident guests, she 
should see that all preparations are made for the comfort of 
the latest comers, and should order tea to be served in their 
rooms at once. It is allowable for guests to refresh them- 
selves and rest before joining the company below stairs, but 
only illness is a plea for the absence of either guests or 
hostess from the dinner-table. Before the dinner-hour the 
hostess should be in the parlors to receive the guests, and 
introduce them to each other ; and she should designate 
companions in specifying the order of entering the dining- 
room, unless the party is a family one, when all formality 
may be dispensed with. After dinner, the evening's amuse- 
ment should be so planned by her as to throw congenial 
people together, and to allot to each one that share of the 
general entertainment best suited to his or her capacity 
or accomplishments ; for in such assemblies the pleasure of 
all often depends upon the talents of individuals. Books, 
musical instruments, games, and various devices for social 
amusement are plentiful and varied, so that no hostess need 
be at a loss for aids to her hospitality. When bedtime ar- 
rives, the hostess should give the signal for retiring. In the 
morning she should preside at the breakfast- table for about 
an hour, after which she may leave the late- comers to the 
care of the servants, and devote herself to the pleasure of 
the guests who first join her, until personal or household 
matters demand her attention. Unless the house-party is 
large, all the guests should endeavor to be at the breakfast- 
table with some degree of punctuality ; but the breakfast 
should begin at its stated hour. Letters and papers may be 



l6o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

glanced at during the meal if the party is large enough to be 
redeemed from stupidity by such proceeding, but it shows a 
lack of courtesy to centre one's entire attention upon a book 
during any repast when others are present at the table. 

After luncheon the hostess must devote herself to her 
guests until it is time to dress for dinner ; that is, she must 
devise some scheme of pleasure in which all can join, or see 
that individuals have some pleasant occupation offered. But 
in no case need she burden herself with undue care ; after 
once having made sure that she has placed enjoyment within 
the reach of her guests, she may leave them to avail them- 
selves of it, or to rest, as best contents them. On Sunday 
the hostess should accompany guests to church, when they 
desire to attend divine service, preceding them up the aisle, 
and staniling by the pew-door until they are seated. When 
the guests are ready to terminate their visit, the hostess 
should be in the parlor in ample time for them to make their 
farewell and reach their train without haste. 

- GARDEN AND LAWN PARTIES. 

All brief country entertainments, such as summer garden 
and lawn parties, tennis, archery and croquet tournaments, 
and picnics and drives, are arranged with reference to the 
weather : the invitations take on the form of an informal 
note, and usually bear the proviso "weather permitting," 
although guests are never expected on wet days. The invi- 
tations are issued in the name of the hostess, and are not 
engraved unless the affair is one of magnitude : when car- 
riages are to meet any special train bringing guests from the 
city, the invitation should indicate that fact, and a time-table 
should be enclosed with the invitation. The hostess should 
receive her guests in a handsome garden-dress with a bonnet : 
the guests should wear tennis, archery, or other special dress, 
when the party assumes any definite character ; otherwise a 



THE ETTQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. l6r 

pretty summer dress is suitable for the ladies, and any well- 
made flannel or woollen suit for the gentlemen. 

When the entertainment involves special exercise, as when 
tennis is played, there should be pleasant seats provided out 
of doors ; and if there is not plenty of shade, one or more 
tents should be erected ; and rugs should be laid if the 
ground is at all damp. When games are to be played, the 
best possible outfit should be provided, suited in abundance 
and variety to the number of guests ; and such games should 
be chosen as afford amusement to both ladies and gentle- 
men. When the games are exhausting, there should be a 
special tent devoted to the comfort of the players, and pro- 
vided with such forms of light refreshments and restoratives 
as are most quickly conducive to comfort, — cordials, hot 
coffee, cigars, and the cooling " cups " especially ; and there 
should be an attendant constantly in service there, besides 
some one to come and go between the house and the tent. 

The form of refreshment for all the lawn-parties is about 
the same. Either a room opening upon the lawn, or a tent, 
is set apart for the repast, and servants attend to it all the 
time while the guests are upon the grounds. The dishes are 
generally small cold entires, sandwiches, relishes, salads, and 
a few small sweets ; ices, sorbets, and ice-creams are accept- 
able, together with the small fruits in season ; tea, coffee, 
chocolate, claret and champagne cups, lemonade, and the 
various temperance beverages, are supplied plentifully, con- 
tained in glass pitchers, and poured into tumblers. The 
picnic refreshments should be chiefly cold luncheon dishes, 
which can be transported easily and neatly, with very few 
sweets ; coffee and lemonade are generally made upon the 
picnic ground, and if any wines are used they should be 
warming ; cordial of some kmd, or spirits, should be carried 
in case of sudden illness. 

The spot chosen for picnics sliould be remote enough 



l62 PRACTICAL AMEKICAN COOKERY. 

to be secure from intrusion, but near some shelter, because 
summer storms so often come up without any previous in- 
dication : there should be no glare of sun or water without 
the possible relief of a grove or a tent, because that alone 
often causes serious discomfort and even sickness. The dress 
should be a stout walking-costume of woollen material, with 
a hat large enough to shelter the eyes, and a cane or staff if 
there is any rough climbing. In arranging a picnic party, if 
gentlemen are available they should equal the ladies in num- 
ber ; and unless the picnic is an invitation affair, each party 
should understand what part of the luncheon they are 
expected to contribute. When invitations are issued, they 
should go out about a week in advance of the date fixed 
upon, and should include the house-party of the person to 
whom they are sent unless some young lady is invited to 
complete a desired number ; then the invitation should in- 
clude her chaperone. Invitations should be answered at 
once definitely. When the party arrives at the picnic ground, 
the hours for luncheon and departure should be fixed upon, 
and then the pursuits of the day may be followed according 
to individual inclination ; but unless there are plenty of 
attendants, the labor of preparing and removing the luncheon 
should not be allowed to fall upon a few persons unless they 
desire it to be so. The day's enjoyment should not be 
marred by too late a stay or too lingering a return, and 
stragglers by inclination should remember that their delay 
may mar the pleasure of others. When the picnic is not 
one of invitation, but the meeting of friends commonly bent 
on enjoyment, each guest may defray a share of the general 
expense. 

Arrangements for camping-out parties are so complicated 
as to extend beyond the limits of a paragraph, and therefore 
readers interested in the author's plans for such gatherings 
are referred to her work specially devoted to that subject. 



Part II. 

CHAPTER I. 

SMALL SHELL-FISH. 
SHELL-FISH ON THE HALF-SHELL {HUITRES). 

The custom generally prevails in this country, of beginning 
every dinner, where there is any attempt at formality, with 
small shell-fish served on the half-shell. Even in the inland 
towns, oysters and hard clams can usually be procured, for 
they are now shipped in barrels from the eastern seaboard to 
all parts of the country accessible by rail. Sometimes a fine 
grade of canned oysters is served on plates painted to imitate 
five or six half oyster-shells ; but great care should be exer- 
cised, if this is done, to have the oysters used directly the 
can is opened ; if there is the slightest taint, or deterioration 
from exposure to the air, the success of the dinner will be 
marred. Indeed, it is best to omit this first service of shell- 
fish, unless they can be freshly taken from the shells. The 
proper accompaniments for raw shell-fish are lemon and 
brown bread and butter, both of which are placed upon the 
table when it is laid. 

OYSTERS ON THE HALF-SHELL. 

Choose the smallest plump oysters which can be obtained. 
In the New- York markets, all very small oysters in good 
condition for serving on the half-shell are called Blue-Points. 

i6i 



1 64 rRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

The small native oysters of California are excellent, having 
the coppery taste so much esteemed by European epicures. 
The small oysters of the southern Atlantic seaboard are 
delicious. Have the shells of the oysters liberally dashed 
with cold water to free them from mud, and then open 
them, loosening the oyster from both sides of the shell by 
dividing the muscle variously called the " eye " and the 
" heart " (both terms are erroneous) ; take off the shallow 
half of the shell, leaving the oyster lying loose in the deep 
part, carefully removing all bits of shell which may be 
broken in opening the oysters : if the oysters are carefully 
opened, very little of the shell will be broken. Arrange the 
deep half-shells containing the oysters upon plates, five or 
six on each plate, with the smallest part of the shell towards 
the centre of the plate ; put a quarter of a lemon in the 
midst of the oysters, and have more lemon upon the table, 
together with several plates of brown bread, cut very thin 
and buttered and then folded to enclose the butter. Do not 
• dish the oysters until just as they are wanted for the table : 
they may be opened, arranged in the deep shells on a large 
pan or tray, and kept in the ice-box until just before ser\-ing 
them. The plates containing the oysters are placed upon 
the tables just before the guests enter the dining-room. 

OYSTERS IN A BLOCK OF ICE. 

This method of icing oysters is more suitable for lunch- 
eon, or for a gentlemen's supper, than for a dinner-ser\'ice. 
A block of clear ice is best : snow-ice, or that which is 
opaque and full of air-holes, melts more quickly than clear 
ice. Make a slight hollow in the upper surface of the ice, 
and lay the deep half-shells containing the oysters in this 
cavity ; place the block of ice on a dish large enough to 
contain all the water from the melting ice, and then at once 
serve the oysters on the block of ice. When there are many 



SMALL SHELL-FISH {HUITRES). 1 65 

guests, a block of ice may be surrounded by unopened 
oysters, and several layers of the shell- fish placed upon the 
top : this necessitates the opening of the oysters at tl?e 
table, an operation difficult to accomplish unless one is an 
expert at " stabbing " the oysters, or prying open the shells, 
without pounding off the edges. The oysters might be 
partly opened, care being taken not to lose their liquor, and 
then packed around and upon the block of ice, with their 
deep shells undermost : the opening would then be a com- 
paratively simple matter. Of course, this service of oysters 
necessitates an ample supply of napery, and sometimes an 
entire change of the table-linen. 

OYSTERS IN ICE. 

A caterer's device for serving raw oysters at a dinner of 
sixteen persons may be noted. Hollow shapes had been 
frozen to represent apples made of ice, the upper half mov- 
able and lifted by a stem ; the oysters were placed in the 
lower section of the apple, which was set on a small doily 
laid on a plate : a few bits of parsley made a pretty garnish. 
The objection to this method of icing the oysters was, that 
the melting of the ice-apple plunged them in a bath of ice- 
water ; while the hollow at the bottom of the interior of the 
apple collected the oysters in a wet mass. They lost not 
only their natural flavor, but also their individuality : one of 
the excellences of the service on the half-shell is that each 
bivalve reaches the consumer in its legitimate habitat, and 
surrounded by its own distinctive liquor. 

When half-shells are not obtainable, the fancy oyster- 
plates might be iced by being left for an hour or longer in 
the ice-box, so that they would speedily cool the oysters 
placed upon them ; or a thin film of ice might be frozen 
over them, by exposing them to a freezing temperature with 
a little water in each one : this, however, would make the 



1 66 PRACTICAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

oysters watery as the ice melted. A third method of icing 
oysters is given in the next recipe. 

COLD CANNED OYSTERS. 

When it is impossible to obtain fresh oysters for the half- 
shell service before dinner, a partial substitute may be made 
from canned oysters, by carefully following the details of this 
recipe. The oysters will be most presentable if served on 
the fancy oyster-plates which imitate the shells ; and they 
must be absolutely cold. 

From a can of fine oysters select the largest and fattest ; 
see that no bits of shell adhere to them, and drain them on 
a sieve ; put their liquor over the fire with an equal quantity 
of vinegar and enough hot water to cover the oysters, and 
let the broth thus made boil, removing all scum as it rises. 
When the broth is cjuite free from scum, throw the oysters 
into it, and watch them closely ; the instant they become 
full and plump, skim them out of the broth, and again lay 
them on the seive to drain. A very little time will suffice 
to make the oysters plump : if they are allowed to cook until 
they shrivel, they will be spoiled for this dish. As soon as 
the oysters are placed on the sieve, cover them with a 
cloth wet in cold water, and let them cool ; when they are 
entirely cold, arrange them on the fancy oyster-plates, and 
serve them cold, with lemon and brown bread and butter. 

LITTLE-NECK CLAMS ON THE HALF-SHELL. 

Choose fresh small Little-Neck clams, of even size ; wash 
the shells with plenty of cold water ; and, just before serving 
them, open the clams like raw oysters, leaving each clam in 
one of the shells with its liquor, after entirely loosening it 
from the shell. Arrange half a dozen clams on a plate, as 
half-shell raw oysters are arranged ; put a piece of lemon 
on each plate, and serve the clams at the beginning of din- 



SMALL SIIELL-FISII {HUITRES). iGj 

ner, as half-shell raw oysters are served ; send thin brown 
bread and butter to" the table with them. 

The fresh raw clams are an excellent tonic and appetizer ; 
and their fresh liquor is a more valuable stimulant for inva- 
lids than beef-tea, as made according to usual methods or 
from meat extracts. 



CHAPTER II. 

SOUPS (Polage). 
SOUP STOCK. 

The same general directions in regard to boiling, clarify- 
ing, and coloring soup-stock, will apply to the making of any 
clear soup or bouillon : the difference is in the ingredients 
used, and the flavor which results. Ordinary stock may be 
prepared in about three hours ; but when a gelatinous stock 
is desired, the boiling must be continued for five or six hours 
in order to extract the gelatine from the bones. While the 
gelatine thickens soup, it does not add to its nutriment ; and 
unless the soup-kettle is kept very closely covered while the 
stock is boiling, much of its flavor and some of its substance 
will escape wath the steam during long-continued boiling. 

*To make stock for an ordinary clear soup, use beef cut 
from the neck or leg, including a marrow-bone ; allow a 
pound of meat and bone for each quart of stock. Trim off 
any defective parts, and wipe the meat with a wet towel ; cut 
the meat from the bone in rather large pieces, so that it may 
be used for hashes or potted meat ; there is still some nour- 
ishment remaming in it after the soup is made, and it retains 
a pleasant flavor from the vegetables and seasoning used in 
the soup ; it is only the beef remaining from beef-tea which 
has little food value or flavor. After the meat is cut from the 
bones, have the bones broken in rather small pieces, and lay 
them in the bottom of the soup-kettle ; put the meat on the 
bones, and add cold water in the proportion of one quart of 

1 68 



SOLTS {POTAGE). 169 

water to one pound of meat and bone ; set the kettle over 
the fire, cover it, and heat its contents until they boil, remov- 
ing all scum as it rises ; the scum is composed of blood and 
albumen, and is to be saved to add to any thick brown soup 
or gravy because it is nutritious ; the object of removing it 
in making stock is to leave the broth clear ; a little salt 
added while the scum is rising will hasten the operation. 

While the stock is being thus freed from scum, prepare 
the vegetables as follows : To four quarts of stock allow one 
medium-size carrot scraped, one medium-size turnip peeled, 
one medium-size onion peeled, without cutting the top or 
root close, or breaking the layers apart ; stick into the onion 
a dozen whole cloves ; wash one medium-size root of parsley 
with the stalks and leaves attached, lay the leafy part in the 
palm of the left hand, in the midst of the leaves place a 
dozen whole peppercorns, a small blade of mace, a small 
bay-leaf, and one sprig of any dried sweet herb except sage ; 
if celery is in season, one of the smaller green stalks or 
about half a dozen of the green leaves may be added ; and 
then the parsley root and leaves wrapped around the other 
seasonings, and the little bunch tied compactly with cord. 
After all the scum has been removed from the stock, put in 
the vegetables, together with two teaspoonfuls of salt, and 
replace the cover of the soup-kettle. Let the stock boil 
gently for two hours or longer. If the kettle is placed so 
that the heat strikes it from one side, causing the stock to 
boil from one side, the soup will be clearer after it is strained 
than if the boiling is taking place in all parts of the kettle 
at once. 

When the stock has boiled the desired length of time, lay 
a folded clean towel in a colander set over an earthen bowl 
or jar large enough to hold the stock ; take up the meat, and 
set it aside to use in any dish of the nature indicated above ; 
the vegetables may be chopped and combined with some 



I/O PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

of tlie meat in the form of a hash, which should be highly 
seasoned. Pour the stock through the towel, letting it run 
through without stirring or squeezing it to disturb the little 
sediment which will remain upon the towel ; when all the 
stock has run through the towel, remove the colander, put 
a sieve or a piece of cheese-cloth over the bowl or jar, to 
protect the stock, and let it cool. If a close earthen or 
metal cover were used, the steam from the hot stock would 
condense upon its inner surface, and partly sour ; falling back 
into the stock, it would deteriorate the whole. \Mien the 
stock is entirely cold, the fat which forms on the surface in 
a cake can be removed, and both the stock and the fat clari- 
fied in accordance with the recipes given below. 

CLEAR SOUP OR CONSOMME. 

When the stock is quite cold, remove the fat from the sur- 
face ; for each quart of stock, allow the white and shell of 
one egg, and a tablespoonful of cold water ; put these ingre- 
dients into a saucepan, and mix them together, then pour 
in the stock ; set the saucepan over the fire, and heat its 
contents gradually, stirring occasionally to prevent the egg 
sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Allow the stock to 
heat and boil gently ; the albumen of the egg will entangle 
all the cloudy particles floating in the stock, and thus clarify 
it ; let the stock boil until it looks perfectly clear under the 
egg, that will rise and float upon the surface in the form of 
a thick white scum, under which the stock will show a clear 
amber color ; when it has boiled long enough to insure this 
appearance, pour it into a folded towel laid in a colander 
set over an earthen bowl ; let the soup run through the towel 
without moving or squeezing it. The soup will be perfectly 
clear, and of a delicate amber color, if these directions are 
carefully followed : it may then be salted to taste, and served. 
Clear soup should never be dark in color like bouillon or 



soc'ps {POTAGi':). 171 

broth : if too light, a very Httle caramel may be used to 
darken it. After the soup is clarified, if there is any fat float- 
ing upon the surface, lay one piece of paper after another 
upon the top, removing each one as it becomes saturated 
with grease ; use any soft absorbent paper, the ordinary 
white wrapping-paper used for tea being the most serv^ice- 
able. All thin soups should be entirely free from fat, and the 
paper must be used to remove it : the most careful skimming 
will not accomplish this result. 

THE CLARIFYING OF FAT. 

Put the fat in a saucepan, with water enough to float it ; 
set the saucepan over the fire, and let the water boil ; then 
pour both water and fat into an earthen bowl or jar, and let 
the fat cool upon the surface of the water ; when the fat is 
cold, it can be lifted from the surface of the water, the sedi- 
ment which forms on the under side can be scraped off, and 
it will then be ready to use. Clarified drippings are excel- 
lent for frying vegetables, and for warming with hash and 
minced cold meats. 

CARAMEL. 

Put a heaping tablespoonful of brown sugar on a frying- 
pan over the fire, and stir it until it is dark brown, and begins 
to smoke ; at once begin to add water, a tablespoonful at 
once, stirring constantly, until enough has been added to 
quite dissolve the burnt sugar ; then strain the caramel 
through a cloth, let it cool, and bottle it. The bottled cara- 
mel will keep a long time ; a few drops added to soups, 
sauces, gravies, or jellies, gives them a rich amber color, 
without imparting any perceptible taste. 

BOUILLON. 

To make stock for bouillon, proceed as directed in the 
recipe for clear soup stock, adding to the ingredients there 



172 PRACT/CAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

specified, for four quarts of stock, a three-pound fowl dressed 
and trussed for boiling, and about a pound of veal bones. 
Boil, cool, and clarify the stock as directed in the recipe. If 
when the bouillon is clarified it is not dark brown, color it 
with a little caramel. The fowl can be taken up when it is 
tender, and used for salad or croquettes. 

CLEAR SOUP WITH ROY ALE PASTE. 

Into clear soup, made as directed in the proper recipe, 
jDut, for each quart, half a cupful of little strips of royale 
paste made as follows : Beat together the yolks of four raw 
eggs, a gill of clear soup, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
and grated nutmeg ; put the custard thus formed into a 
shallow dish well buttered, using such size as to make the 
custard about an eighth of an inch thick ; place the dish in 
a pan of warm water, and steam the custard over the fire or 
in the oven until it is firm ; then cool it, cut it in Httle strips, 
put it into the soup, and serve it at once. 

SPRING SOUP WITH VEGETABLES. 

To two quarts of consomme or bouillon add a half-pint of 
vegetables such as carrot, turnip, and Jerusalem artichoke, cut 
in small dice, cylinders, or cubes • after they are peeled, and 
a gill of any green vegetable boiled until tender in salted 
boiling water ; as soon as the vegetables are tender, and be- 
fore they begin to break at all, drain them from the boiling 
water, throw them into cold water, and after they are cold, 
and their color is set, add them to the soup, which should 
be boiling hot, and then serv^e it. 

The large vegetables may be turned or cut with any of 
the small vegetable scoops sliown in the proper illustration ; 
the green vegetable, such as lettuce, green cabbage, celery 
or spinach leaves, or sorrel, should be cut in shreds, and 
boiled as directed above, before putting it into the soup. 



sours {potage). 



173 



CASE OF VEGETABLE CUTTERS. 

The accompanying cut shows a case of cylindrical vegeta- 
ble cutters, made of tin, the smallest being withdrawn from 
the case ; the tubes are used for cutting various garnishes 
and salad vegetables, and for making little rounds of pastry 
and bread to be fried for 
garnishes ; the medium 
sizes are useful for tak- 
ing out the cores of 
fruit, and the smallest 
for cutting small pieces 
of vegetables for soups. 
Vegetables cut with these 
cylinders are shown in 
another illustration. 

OX-TAIL SOUP. 

Cut an ox- tail in pieces 
about an inch long, wash 
it well in plenty of cold 
water, put it over the 
fire in fresh cold water 

enough to cover it, and let it slowly reach the boiling-point ; 
then drain and dry it, roll it in flour seasoned with salt and 
pepper, put it over the fire in a saucepan containing two 
tablespoonfuls of butter made smoking hot, and brown it ; 
while the ox-tail is being browned, peel and cut in small 
dice a carrot, a turnip, and an onion ; when the ox-tail is 
brown, add the vegetables to it, together with three quarts 
of boiling water and a palatable seasoning of salt and pep- 
per, and boil the soup slowly for three hours, keeping the 
saucepan covered ; then add a tablespoonful of any good 
table-sauce, and serve the soup. If, when the soup is done. 




Case of Vegetable Cutters or Cylinders. 



174 rRACTICAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

it is not as thick as ordinary cream, make it so by boiling 
with it a little browned flour ; if it is too thick, thin it with 
a little boiling water ; see that it is palatably seasoned, and 
serve it. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 

Thoroughly wash a fresh calf s head ; cut off the skin 
without mangling it, so that the best parts may be reserved 
for different dishes after it is boiled in the soup-stock ; cut 
out the tongue whole, and take out the brains without break- 
ing them. Full details of this operation have already been 
published in several of this author's works, and any accom- 
modating butcher will perform it carefully for a customer. 
After the head is skinned, have it split so that the different 
passages and moutli can be thoroughly cleaned, and then 
wash the entire head in plenty of cold water. Put the bones 
of the head in the bottom of the soup-kettle, lay the skin 
and tongue upon them, cover them with cold water, and 
place the kettle over the fire where its contents can slowly 
reach the boiling-point ; remove all scum as it rises, and 
when the stock is clear put in a carrot, a turnip, and an 
onion peeled, a bouquet of herbs made by tying together 
a handful of parsley, a bay-leaf, a stalk of celery, a sprig 
of any sweet herb except sage, a dozen whole cloves, and 
peppercorns, or a small pod of red pepper. Cover the 
kettle, after adding a tablespoonful of salt, and boil the soup 
gently for two hours ; then take out the head and tongue, 
and wrap them in a wet cloth, and continue the boiling for 
four hours, keeping the kettle closely covered to prevent the 
evaporation of the soup-stock. When it is done, strain it 
and cool it as directed in the recipe for clear soup-stock. 
When the stock is cool, take off the fat ; cut the thinnest 
parts of the head in small dice ; make some egg-balls as 
directed in the proper recipe ; allow half a cupful of egg- 
balls and a cui)ful of calf's head for each quart of soup \ 



SOC^PS {rOTAGE). 175 

for each quart mix together over the fire a tablespoonful 
each of butter and flour, and stir them until they brown ; 
then gradually stir in a quart of stock ; when the soup is 
quite smooth, and begins to boil, add the egg-balls and 
calf s head ; put a glass of Madeira and the juice of half a 
lemon, or half a lemon sliced, into the soup-tureen ; see that 
the soup is palatably seasoned, pour it into the tureen, and 
serve it at once. The best parts of the calfs head may be 
broiled, fried, or stewed, and the tongue and brains served 
boiled, with some sharp sauce ; the tongue alone may be 
served boiled with any kind of boiled "greens;" and the 
brain made into fritters or croquettes. 

BROWN TURKEY SOUP. 

Use for this soup the carcass of a cold roast turkey ; cut all 
the scraps of meat from it, and mince them fine ; mince also 
any bits of heart, liver, or gizzard which may be available ; 
put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the soup-kettle, and set it 
over the fire to get smoking hot ; peel and slice an onion, 
and when the butter is hot add the onion to it, together with 
the minced turkey-meat and any cold stuffing on hand, and 
let all these ingredients brown together; when they are 
brown, stir among them two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, 
and let that brown ; then pour in four quarts of boiling water, 
add two teaspoonfuls of salt and a level saltspoonful of pep- 
per ; stir the soup thoroughly, put in the carcass of the tur- 
key without breaking it, cover the soup-kettle, and let the 
soup cook slowly for at least two hours ; then remove the 
carcass of the turkey, and serve the soup hot with all 
the other ingredients in it. A glass of wine poured into the 
tureen containing the soup is a great addition to it when 
the flavor of wine is liked ; but the soup is excellent without 
it. 



1/6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



CHICKEN SOUP. 

Carefully pluck all the feathers from a fowl weigYiing about 
four pounds ; singe off the hairs with a piece of lighted paper, 
or a tablespoonful of alcohol poured on a plate and lighted 
with a match ; then wipe the fowl with a wet towel, cut off 
the head and feet, and draw it without breaking the intes- 
tines. If the fowl is carefully drawn, there will be no neces- 
sity to wash it, and thus its flavor will be preserved. Peel 
and slice a small onion, and fry it brown in the bottom of 
the soup-kettle, with a tablespoonful of butter ; then put the 
fowl into the soup-kettle, and turn it about until it is slightly 
browned. Next pour over it four quarts of cold water, add 
a level tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, 
a head of celery washed in cold water and then cut in half- 
inch dice, and one blade of mace. Cover the soup-kettle, 
and let its contents boil slowly until the chicken is tender. 
Meantime scald the head and feet of the fowl, scrape the 
skin off them, and cut off the beak and toes ; cut the neck 
into half-inch pieces ; clean the gizzard and heart, and re- 
move the gall from the side of the liver, and chop them in 
small bits ; when all these parts of the fowl are prepared, 
put them into a frying-pan containing a tablespoonful of 
smoking hot butter, and fry them brown, then put them 
into the soup-kettle ; pour a cupful of hot water into the 
pan in which they were fried, stir it well about, and then 
pour it into the soup. Wlien the fowl is tender, take it out 
of the soup, and use it as directed in the recipe for chicken 
salad or for chicken croquettes ; set the soup-kettle where 
the rest of its contents will cook slowly until wanted for the 
table, taking care to keep it closely covered to prevent 
evaporation. When ready to use the soup, add to it two 
tablespoonfuls of any good table sauce, and serve it without 
straining it, after removing the head and feet. 



SOUPS {potage). 



177 



PUREE SIEVE. 

The sieve shown in the accompanying cut is made of 
perforated tin, or very strong wire netting, set in a stout 
wooden frame, nearly in the centre. An ordinary flour- 
sieve is not strong enough to permit the hard rubbing that 
is required to force a puree or pulp through the sieve. A 




Puree Sieve and Masher. 



very fine colander will serve for the purpose of making ordi- 
nary purees ; especially the kind made with solid sides and 
a bottom of perforated tin. 



CHICKEN AND RICE SOUP, OR POTAGE A LA REINE. 

To three quarts of clear chicken broth, add half a cup- 
ful of rice, and boil it until the rice can be rubbed through 
a sieve with a potato-masher; then return the broth and 
rice to the saucepan, add enough hot milk to make them 
the consistency of cream, season them palatably with salt, 



178 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

pepper, and nutmeg, and as soon as the soup is hot serve it, 
as it grows too thick by standing. 

CREAM OF ASPARAGUS. 

When asparagus is used, the tough part of the stalks can 
be boiled until they are tender enough for the pulp to be 
rubbed through a sieve with a potato-masher : a cupful of 
the pulp will make a quart of soup if the directions here 
given are followed. For a quart of soup, put in a saucepan 
over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and 
stir them until they are smoothly blended ; then gradually 
stir in a pint of milk, and enough of the water in which the 
asparagus was boiled to make a soup about the consistency 
of cream ; to this add a cupful of the asparagus pulp pre- 
pared as directed above, stirring it smoothly with the soup ; 
let it boil once, season it palatably with salt, white pepper, 
and a very little grated nutmeg, and draw the saucepan to 
the side of the fire, where its contents cannot boil ; beat 
the yolk of a raw egg to a cream with a little of the soup, 
and then stir it with the rest of the soup, and serve it 
at once ; if the soup boils after the egg is added, it will 
curdle. 

ONION SOUP. 

Peel two of the large Valencia onions which are sold in the 
fruit-stores, slice them, put them -into a saucepan with four 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and brown the onions slightly over 
a moderate fire ; meantime, peel and slice a large white 
turnip, and wash and chop a head of celery ; when the 
onions are browned, add the turnip and celery, together 
with two quarts of any broth from boiled meat, or one 
quart each of milk and water; season the soup palatably 
with salt and white pepper, and boil it gently until the 
vegetables are tender enough to rub through a sieve with 
a potato-masher. The broth in which the vegetables are 



SOUPS {POTAGE). 179 

boiled is to be saved ; put a tablespoonful each of butter 
and flour over the fire in the saucepan, and stir them until 
they bubble ; then gradually stir in the broth and vegetable 
pulp, see that the soup is palatably seasoned, let it boil for 
a moment, and then serve it hot. 

CELERY SOUP. 

Pick over a cupful of rice, wash it in cold water, drain it, 
and put it over the fire in three pints of boiling water ; wash 
and cut in half-inch bits two cupfuls of the white stalks of 
celery, add it to the rice, with a teaspoonful of salt, and 
boil them together gently for an hour, taking care that there 
is always water enough to prevent burning. Then rub the 
rice and celery througli a sieve with a potato-masher, re- 
turn them to the saucepan in which they were boiled, set it 
over the fire, add to them two quarts of hot milk, or 
enough to make the soup about the consistency of thick 
cream ; use a palatable seasoning of salt and white pepper, 
and a very little nutmeg, and stir the soup until it boils ; 
then serve it at once. 

CREAM OF FRESH MUSHROOMS. 

Carefully wash and peel a quart of fresh rnushrooms, 
boil them in a quart of boiling water until they are tender 
enough to rub through a sieve with a potato-masher ; then 
stir them into two quarts of cream soup made as directed 
in any of the recipes for cream soup, or as follows : Put 
into a thick saucepan two tablespoonfuls each of butter 
and flour, and stir them together until they begin to bubble ; 
then gradually stir in a quart each of hot milk and boiling 
water, adding them to the butter and flour, half a cupful 
at a time, and stirring this quantity in smoothly before 
adding more. When the milk and water have been all used, 
season the soup palatably with salt, white pepper, and grated 



l8o PRAfJ/CAI. AI\rF.R/CAX COOKERY. 

nutmeg ; stir into it the puree or pulp of mushrooms, let it 
boil once, and then serve it. 

CREAM OF CAULIFLOWERS. 

Trim the outer leaves from a fresh cauliflower, thoroughly 
wash it in plenty of cold water, and lay it with the flowerets 
down in a large pan of cold water containing a handful of 
salt ; occasionally shake the cauliflower about in the water, 
to free it from the little insects which are lodged among the 
flowerets. After it is quite clean, put it over the fire in a 
large saucepan half full of salted boiling water, and boil it 
steadily for twenty minutes, or until the stalk is tender 
enough to be easily pierced with a fork, but do not boil it 
long enough to cause the flowerets to break off". When the 
cauliflower is tender, drain it, cut it apart in even-size 
branches, and lay the finest ones in cold salted water ; put 
the small ones and the stalk into a colander, and rub them 
through it with a potato-masher; about a cupful of this 
cauliflower puree will be required for two quarts of soup. 
Next put two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour over 
the fire in a thick saucepan, and stir them until they bubble ; 
next gradually stir in a quart of boiling water, and then a 
quart of hot milk, adding them by degrees, and stirring the 
soup constantly to insure its smoothness ; when all the 
water and milk are used, season the soup with two level 
teaspoonfuls of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, 
and a very little grated nutmeg ; mix the mashed cauliflower 
into the soup, let it boil once, and serve it. If the soup is 
not used as soon as it is done, place the saucepan contain- 
ing it in a bain-marie, or a dripping-pan half full of boiling 
water, and set the pan on the back of the fire, where the 
soup will keep hot without burning ; if by standing, it grows 
thicker than thick cream, thin it before using it with a little 
hot milk, and add a very little more seasoning. 



SOUPS {POTAGE). l8l ' 

Directions for using the rest of the boiled cauliflower will 
be found among the recipes for cooking vegetables. 

BAIN-MARIE. 

The bain-jnarie, or salt-water bath, is one of the greatest 
of kitchen conveniences : it is a deep iron or copper pan, 
partly filled with salted water, the temperature of which can 
be raised higher than that of fresh water, and placed upon 
the back of the fire, to contain saucepans whose coritents 




Bain-marie, or Salt-water Bath. 

require heating without boiling; by increasing the heat, 
cooking can be done in a bain-marie. Small saucepans or 
tin pails are set in the water-bath to keep their contents hot 
after they are ready for the table. A card placed upon the 
handle of a saucepan indicates its contents without the 
trouble of removing the cover. A primitive bain-vi'arie 
can be made with a dripping-pan and several small tin 
pails, or even empty tin cans. Soups, sauces, vegetables, and 
ragouts can be kept hot in this way without deteriorating. 

TOMATO CREAM SOUP. 

Peel and slice one quart of fresh tomatoes, or use a can 
of tomatoes ; pick over half a cupful of rice, and wash it 



I 82 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

well in cold water ; rub two taljlespoonfuls of butter to a 
smooth paste with one tablespoonful of flour; put the to- 
matoes over the fire in a soup-kettle with one quart of cold 
water, and let them heat gradually ; when they are hot, add 
another quart of cold water, and when this boils, put in the 
rice, a saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
and continue the boiling until the rice is tender, but not 
broken ; then stir in the paste of butter and flour, a salt- 
spoonful of soda, and a pint of milk, or enough to make the 
soup as thick as cream ; let the soup boil for a few moments, 
in order to thoroughly cook the flour, and then serve it at 
once. 

STRING- BEAN SOUP. 

Remove the strings from a pint of beans, cut them in 
small pieces, wash them in cold water, and then boil them 
in salted boiling water until they are tender enough to rub 
through a sieve with a potato-masher. After the beans are 
prepared in this way, put over the fire in a clean saucepan 
two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, and stir them 
until they are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in two 
quarts of boiling water ; when the white soup thus made is 
boiling, put in the beans, prepared as already directed ; sea- 
son the soup with two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a saltspoonful 
of white pepper, and the least dust of cayenne pepper ; let 
it boil once, and serve it. 

GREEN-PEA SOUP. 

Make this soup of small green peas and the broth in 
which a chicken has been cooked. To prepare it, first care- 
fully pick and singe a chicken, wipe it with a wet towel, draw 
it without breaking the intestines, and truss it to keep it in 
shape while boiling. Put it over the fire in a saucepan con- 
taining sufiicient boiling water to cover the chicken ; remove 
all scum as it rises, and when the broth is clear add a table- 



SOUPS {POTAGE). 183 

spoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper ; cover 
the saucepan closely, and simmer the chicken very slowly 
until it is tender. Meantime shell a quart of green peas, boil 
them tender in salted boiling water, then drain them and 
put them in cold water ; mix to a smooth paste two table- 
spoonfuls each of butter and flour. When the chicken is 
tender, take it out of the broth ; reserve it for some other 
dish ; drain the peas, and pour them into the broth with the 
flour and butter, stirring the broth until the flour and butter 
are dissolved in it, and adding a little water or milk if there 
is not enough broth to make the soup of a creamy con- 
sistency. As soon as the soup boils up, see that it is pala- 
tably seasoned, and serve it. 

OKRA SOUP WITH CRABS. 

In early summer, green okra pods are abundant and 
cheap, selling in the large markets at about thirty cents a 
hundred. Okra is very nutritious, and deserves the attention 
of housewives who wish to combine variety with economy 
in serving their tables. 

To make four quarts of soup, peel and slice two onions, 
and fry them brown in two tablespoonfuls of sweet drippings 
or butter ; fry with the onions a thin sUce of ham, weighing 
about a quarter of a pound, and a knuckle of veal chopped, 
or about two pounds of any cheap cut of veal containing 
plenty of bone ; while these ingredients are frying, wash two 
dozen pods of okra in cold water, and slice them thin, 
throwing away the stems ; when the onions and meat are 
brown, add the okra to them, with four quarts of boiling 
water, a small fresh green or red pepper chopped fine, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt, and simmer the soup slowly 
for two hours, keeping the pot covered. Meanwhile pick 
all the meat from six boiled hard-shell crabs, and fry it 
brown, with a small onion sliced, and a tablespoonful of 



1 84 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

butter, and peel and slice one dozen medium-sized toma- 
toes. Four soft-shell crabs, fried in quarters, may be used 
in place of the hard-shell crabs : add the fried crab-meat 
and the sliced tomatoes to the soup at the end of two 
hours, and let the soup simmer slowly for two hours longer, 
keeping it closely covered to prevent evaporation. If, when 
the time for cooking the soup has expired, it has boiled 
away, add sufficient boiling water to increase it to four 
quarts ; remove tlie bones and any pieces of meat which 
have not boiled to shreds ; see if the seasoning is palatable, 
and serve the soup hot. 

OKRA SOUP WITH BEEF. 

Make this soup according to the directions given in the 
recipe for okra soup with crabs, substituting four pounds of 
soup-beef for the veal and ham, and leaving out the crabs. 
The beef must be taken out of the soup before serving it. 
Sometimes two dozen fried oysters are added to the soup 
just before sending it to the table. When green corn is 
plentiful, a pint of it, cut from the cob, and half a pint of 
Lima beans, may be added to the soup half an hour before 
it has finished cooking. 

DRIED OKRA SOUP. 

Pick over a quart of dried okra, wash it in cold water, 
and soak it over night in two quarts of cold water : be sure 
that the okra is tender, for if it is tough and full of woody 
fibre it will be exceedingly unpalatable. The next morning, 
pluck and singe a tender fowl weighing about three pounds, 
draw it without breaking the intestines, wipe it with a wet 
towel, cut it in small joints as for fricassee, and roll the pieces 
in flour seasoned with pepper and salt. Put a saucepan 
over the fire with half a cupful of lard, and when the fat is 
hot put in the chicken, and fry it light-brown : when the 



SOUPS {potage). 185 

chicken is brown, add to it the okra and the water in which 
it has been soaking, together with enough more water to 
make four quarts of soup ; season the soup palatably with 
salt and pepper, and cook it gently until the chicken is ten- 
der. Meantime remove all bits of shell from a solid quart 
of large oysters, and strain their liquor ; rub to a fine pow- 
der a tablespoonful of dried sassafras-leaves, sift the powder 
through a very fine sieve, and put it into the soup : when 
the chicken is tender, put in the oysters, together with their 
liquor : let the soup again heat, and boil for two minutes, 
and then serve it very hot. 

In some of the large cities, a powder, made of sassafras 
leaves and shoots, is sold under the name of gumbo Jiief: 
when this is used, it is stirred into the soup at the moment 
of serving, and no cover is placed upon the tureen, because 
some cooks consider that it injures the soup to cover it. 

HAM AND PEA SOUP. 

For this soup use the bone of a ham which has been cut 
out before cooking the ham, or one from a cooked ham ; 
put it over the fire with three quarts of cold water and a 
pint of dried peas which have been picked over and well 
washed in cold water, and boil the soup slowly for six hours, 
or until the peas are tender enough to be easily rubbed 
through a sieve with a potato-masher. After putting the 
soup through the sieve, return it to the fire to heat, leaving 
out the ham-bone • season it palatably with salt and pepper, 
and then serve it with a plate of toast cut in half-inch dice, 
or with small dice of stale bread fried in smoking hot fat, 
and laid for a moment on brown paper to free them from 
grease. 

DRIED BEAN SOUP. 

Wash one pound of dried beans in plenty of cold water, 
pick out all the defective ones, and soak the beans over 



1 86 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

night in a quart of cold water : -the next morning peel and 
slice one onion, and fry it in the soup-kettle with one table- 
spoonful of butter or sweet drippings ; while the onion is 
browning, peel and slice one carrot and one turnip, and put 
them with the onion ; add the soaked beans and four quarts 
of cold water. Boil these ingredients very slowly for four 
hours, or until they are tender enough to rub through a sieve 
with a potato- masher : after rubbing them through the sieve, 
return them to the soup-kettle, together with the broth in 
which they were boiled, and place the kettle over the fire ; 
rub to a smooth paste two tablespoonfuls each of butter and 
flour, and stir this paste into the soup until it is entirely dis- 
solved. Season the soup palatably with salt and pepper, let 
it boil for one minute, and then serve it hot. Bread cut in 
half-inch dice, and browned in the oven, makes a nice ac- 
companiment for this soup. 

Yellow split pease may be used in the same way for pease 
soup. 

TURTLE BEAN SOUP. 

Pick over one pint of turtle beans (which are small, black, 
dried beans), wash them in cold water, and then put them 
into cold water to soak over night. At least four hours 
before dinner put the beans over the fire in four quarts of 
cold water, heat the water gradually to the boiling-point, 
and boil the beans gently for about three hours, or until 
they are tender enough to be rubbed through a sieve with 
a potato-masher ; when they are first set to boil, add to 
them the following seasonings : one level teaspoonful of 
dried marjoram leaves, two heaping teaspoonfuls of salt, one 
saltspoonful of pepper, and one onion peeled and stuck 
with a dozen cloves. While the beans are being boiled, 
boil three eggs hard, remove the shells, cut the eggs in 
small slices or dice, and put them into the soup-tureen ; 
just before serving the soup, slice a lemon, and place it in 



SOUPS 187 

the tureen ; when the beans are quite tender, rub them 
through a sieve with a potato-masher, and return them to the 
soup-kettle ; rub a tablespoonful each of butter and flour to 
a smooth paste, stir them with the beans, add enough boihng 
water to make the soup about the consistency of thick cream, 
see that it is palatably seasoned, let it boil for two minutes, 
and then serve it hot in the tureen, with the hard-boiled 
egg and sliced lemon. A wineglassful of sherry or Madeira 
added to two or three quarts of the soup will greatly improve 
its flavor : the wine should not be boiled, only added to the 
soup just before serving it. 

OYSTER CREAM SOUP. 

Carefully free a solid quart of oysters from all particles 
of shell, and strain their liquor ; put the oysters over the fire 
in their liquor, with enough water to make a quart of liquid, 
and let them reach the boihng-point ; then rub the oysters 
through a fine sieve with a potato-masher, moistening them 
with the liquor, and keep them warm ; next put over the fire 
in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, 
and stir them until they bubble ; then add a quart of boiling 
milk, gradually, stirring it quite smooth, and the oyster pulp 
and liquor; when these ingredients are smoothly blended, 
if they are thicker than thick cream, add a little more boil- 
ing milk, season the soup palatably with salt and pepper, 
let it boil once, and then serve it with very small crackers 
or with small fried crusts prepared as directed in the follow- 
ing recipe. 

FRIED CRUSTS FOR SOUP. 

Cut thin slices of bread in small even dice, rejecting the 
crust ; put over the fire the frying-ketde half full of fat, 
and when it begins to smoke throw in the crusts, and fry 
them golden-brown ; take them out of the fat with a skim- 



1 88 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

mer, lay them on brown paper for a moment to free them 
from grease, and tlien use them for serving with soup. 

OYSTER SOUP WITH EGGS. 

Use for two quarts of soup one quart of oysters ; free 
them from bits of shell, and drain them from their liquor ; 
add to the liquor a pint of milk, and sufificient water to in- 
crease the quantity to about two quarts ; place the milk and 
oyster liquor over the fire, season it with salt and white or 
red pepper, let it boil for a moment, and remove any scum 
that may rise ; meantime, beat four eggs smoothly with half 
a pint of milk, and strain them ; after the scum has all been 
removed from the soup, put into it the oysters and the eggs 
and milk, and stir it constantly until it begins to thicken ; 
do not let it boil, lest the eggs curdle ; as soon as it is 
smooth and scalding hot, serve it. The oysters need so 
little cooking that the heat of the scalding broth is sufificient 
to do them properly. 

SOFT CLAM SOUP WITH TOMATOES. 

Wash a pint of soft clams in two quarts of cold water 
until they are perfectly free from sand, and then strain the 
water through a towel fine enough to retain the sand ; cut 
the hard part of the clams away from the soft portions, and 
put the latter in a cool place until the soup is nearly done ; 
chop the hard parts of the clams medium fine, put them into 
a saucepan with the water in which they were washed, a 
pint of canned or sliced tomatoes, an onion peeled and 
sliced, a small red pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; 
cook all these ingredients together very slowly for an hour, 
and then strain them through a fine colander. After the 
soup has been strained, put it again over the fire, add to it 
half a pint of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, four table- 
spoonfuls of finely powdered cracker-dust, and the soft 



so UPS. 1 89 

portions of the clams, and stir it constantly until it boils ; 
let it boil for a minute, see that it is palatably seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and then serve it hot. 

CREAM OF FLUKE. 

The fluke is a large, white- fleshed fish, resembling the 
flounder in general appearance. Its flesh is firm and sweet, 
and in its season its price is very reasonable. As several 
dishes c^m be made from one fish, the reader's attention is 
called to the fish recipes which are given elsewhere. 

To prepare the fish for the soup, cut one-fourth of the 
flesh away from the bone and skin, reserving the rest for 
other dishes, and boil it, putting it over the fire in boiling 
salted water, and cooking it until the flakes begin to sepa- 
rate. Then drain it, and rub it through a sieve with a 
potato-masher. Allow one cupful of fish for each quart of 
soup. 

To make two quarts of soup, put two tablespoonfuls each 
of butter and flour into a saucepan, and set it over a gentle 
fire ; stir constantly until the butter and flour are smoothly 
blended, then gradually stir in two quarts of hot milk, add- 
ing half a cupful at a time, and stirring it smooth before 
putting in more. When all the milk is mixed with the flour 
and butter, season the soup with two teaspoonfuls of salt 
and quarter of a salt-spoonful each of white pepper and 
grated nutmeg. Next, put in the fish, and stir the soup 
with an egg-whip until it boils ; then serve it hot. Any 
white-fleshed fish can be used in this way. 

CRAYFISH SOUP OR BISQUE. 

Wash fifty live crayfish in plenty of cold water, and put 
them head first into four quarts of boiling water with a 
tablespoonful of salt, a carrot scraped and sliced, one turnip 
and one onion peeled and sliced, one small sprig of parsley 



190 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOK'ERY. 

with the root attached, a red pepper, and a dozen whole 
cloves ; boil all these ingredients together for twenty min- 
utes ; then take out the crayfish, and continue to boil the 
soup as before ; as soon as the crayfish can be handled, 
break the tails away from the bodies ; remove the flesh of the 
tails entire, and put it by to use presendy ; put the shells 
of the tails and the bodies of the crayfish in a mortar, and 
crush them, and then put them into the soup, and con- 
tinue boiling it for an hour ; reserve the flesh of the tails to 
put into the soup just before serving it. When the soup has 
boiled an hour, strain it, pressing the vegetables and crayfish 
shells with a wooden spoon in a fine sieve to extract all 
possible color and flavor. Next, mix together over the fire 
two heaping tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour until 
they are smoothly blended, and gradually add to them the 
strained soup, stirring constantly to prevent the formation 
of lumps ; when all the soup has been stirred in, add a gill 
of cream and half a pint of white wine, put in the crayfish 
tails, see that the soup is palatably seasoned with salt and 
cayenne, and serve it at once. 

BISQUE OF PRAWNS. 

Put a hundred prawns into two quarts of boiling water, 
after first washing them in plenty of cold water, and boil 
them until the shells turn red ; meantime, wash two pounds 
of eels in cold water, cut them in inch pieces, and put them 
over the fire in sutificient cold water to cover them, together 
with a gill of vinegar, a level teaspoonful of whole pepper- 
corns, a blade of mace, an onion peeled and stuck with a 
dozen whole cloves, a sprig of any sweet herb except sage, 
a small sprig of parsley with root attached, a stalk of celery, 
and a level tablespoonful of salt ; as soon as the prawns are 
red, put the pot-liquor in which they were boiled with the 
above-named ingredients, and then take the prawns from the 



SOUPS. 191 

shells ; put the flesh of the prawns aside until the soup 
is nearly done, add the shells to the other ingredients, cover 
the soup-kettle, and boil until they are reduced to a pulp ; 
then strain the soup through a towel laid in a colander ; 
put two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour in a sauce- 
pan, and stir them over the fire until they bubble ; then 
gradually stir in the strained soup, about half a cupful at a 
time, until a creamy soup is made ; add the flesh of the 
prawns to this, season it palatably, put with it about a gill of 
Sauterne, let it heat to the boiling-point, and then serve it 
hot. If prawns are not plentiful, some lobster flesh may be 
shredded and used for the soup. 

LOBSTER SOUP. 

Plunge a large lobster, or two of medium size, into a large 
pot half full of boiling salted water, and boil it until the shell 
is quite red ; then take it from the water, cool it until it can 
be handled, and remove the flesh from the shell, rejecting 
the soft fins which lie close to the body under the legs, the 
stomach, which is enclosed in a rather hard membrane back 
of the eyes, and the intestine which runs down the middle of 
the tail, and saving all the coral and green fat; cut the 
flesh of the lobster in small pieces ; put over the fire a sauce- 
pan containing two heaping tablespoonfuls each of butter 
and flour, and stir them until they bubble ; then gradually 
add three quarts of boiling water, stirring it until the soup 
is very smooth ; then add the lobster, prepared as already 
directed, season the soup rather highly with salt and red 
pepper, let it boil for two or three minutes, and then serve 
it hot. 

CRAB SOUP. 

For two quarts of soup use a cupful or half a pint of crab 
meat, removed from the shell, or canned crab meat ; put in 
a saucepan over the fire two tablespoonfuls each of butter 



192 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

and flour, and stir them together until they are smoothly 
mixed ; then stir in gradually one quart each of hot milk and 
water, making the soup perfectly smooth by stirring it ; sea- 
son the soup rather highly with salt, white pepper, and cay- 
enne ; put in the crab meat and one glass of sherry ; let the 
soup boil once after adding the crab meat, and then serve it. 

TERRAPIN CLEAR SOUP. 

Refer to the recipes for cooking terrapin ; save the water 
used in boiling the terrapin, and after they are dressed put 
their shells, broken up, into the water, and boil them for six 
hours ; then add enough stock of bouillon or consomme to 
doubly cover them, and again boil them until they begin 
to soften. After that cool and clarify the broth thus made, 
season with salt, cayenne, and Madeira, and serv^e it clear. 

HO'W TO KILL GREEN TURTLE. 

The large size of a green turtle often makes its use incon- 
venient in a private family ; but if the fish-dealer kills it and 




Green Turtle; the Calipash or Upper Shell. 

cuts it up, it may be divided among several, at a proportion- 
ate cost which will be comparatively small. A turtle is 



SOUPS. 



193 



killed by cutting the throat or cutting off the head, after first 
tying the fins to prevent struggling, and then hanging its 
head downward, or laying it upon' a table, with a tub under 
the head to catch the blood : it is allowed to remain over 
night, and the blood is saved for making sauces for the dif- 
ferent dishes of turtle. 

In the morning lay the turtle on its back, cut off the under 
shell without cutting into the intestines, and carefully re- 




Green Turtle being bled; the Calipee or Uncer Slicll. 



move the eggs and liver ; the gall, which is a dark green bag 
embedded in the liver, must be very carefully cut out without 
breaking it, because a drop of the bitter fluid would ruin any 
part of the turtle with which it might come in contact ; after 
the gall is removed, the liver is to be laid in cold water, as 
are all the different portions of the turtle, as soon as they are 
cut off the shell ; the under shell should be cut in pieces 
about four inches square, and divided with the flesh of the 
turtle, because, after long-continued boiling, parts of it be- 
come the semi-gelatinous substance called by many cooks 



194 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the green fat ; the green fat proper is a soft substance, dark 
bluish-green in color, which lies about the intestines and in 
the sockets of the legs where they join the body ; it is abun- 
dant when turtles are in good condition, and should be im- 
partially divided, as it is considered a great delicacy ; the 
upper shell is to be cut up to boil with the turtle to make 
stock. The liver, eggs, and green fat are to be kept in cold 
water until the soup-stock is being prepared, then boiled in 
it until tender, and afterward wrapped in a wet cloth until 
they are wanted for the various dishes made of the turtle. 

HOW TO BOIL GREEN TURTLE. 

For every four pounds of turtle flesh and shell allow a 
gallon of cold water ; put them over the fire together with an 
even weight of veal bones, or of calf's head or feet, a table- 
spoonful of salt, and one carrot, one turnip, one onion 
peeled and stuck with a dozen cloves, and a bouquet of 
parsley, sweet herbs, mace, and peppercorns ; remove all 
scum as it rises, keep the kettle closely covered, and boil its 
contents gently ; as fast as any portion of the turtle becomes 
tender, take it up, cool it, wrap it in a wet cloth, and put 
it in a cool place until it is wanted for making any of the 
dishes for which recipes are given. Continue to boil the 
bones and shells for five or six hours ; and then strain 
the stock, and put it by for the soup and sauces. The dark 
under shell is to be boiled until tender, and then saved for 
the soup, to which it is added after being cut in half-inch 
dice. 

GREEN TURTLE SOUP-STOCK. 

Prepare the turtle as directed in the two preceding re- 
cipes. To make the stock for the soup, put the pieces of 
shell over the fire with sufficient boiling water to cover them, 
and boil them for two or three hours, or until the outer edges 
of the shell are soft ; if the water boils away, add more, 



SOUPS. 195 

always keeping the shells covered. Then cut the soft parts 
of the shells into pieces about half an inch square, lay them 
in an earthen bowl, cover them with a wet napkin, and keep 
them in a cool place until wanted. Then put the hard parts 
of the shell again into the water in which it was boiled ; put 
in also one-eighth of the first weight of the turtle in soup- 
beef bones, and one-sixteenth of the weight in the bones of 
veal, or of calf's feet and head cleaned as directed in the 
recipe for skinning calfs head for mock turtle soup. On 
top of these ingredients lay the neck and fins of the turtle, 
and the cushions or rounded muscles at the top of the turtle 
fins, unless part of the latter is to be reserved raw for broil- 
ing as turtle steaks ; add sufficient water to cover all, and 
two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt, and let all boil gently for 
about two hours, or until the bones of the fins separate easily 
from the flesh ; remove any scum which may rise, and keep 
the soup-kettle closely covered. 

When the fins and cushions are tender, take them out of the 
stock, separate the flesh from the bones, keeping it in good- 
sized pieces, and put it aside in a cool place until wanted, in 
an earthen vessel covered with a wet napkin. Then return 
the bones to the stock ; add to it the proportions usually 
employed for soup-stock, of carrots, turnips, onions, parsley, 
sweet herbs, whole cloves, mace, and peppercorns, and boil 
it gendy for five hours, keeping it closely covered. In the 
stock, boil the liver, eggs, fat, and intestines after they are 
soaked in cold water ; the intestines being turned outward like 
a reversed glove-finger, and thoroughly scraped and washed. 

When the stock is boiled, it should be strained until clear, 
through a folded towel laid in a colander set over a large 
earthen bowl. All those parts of the turtle which have been 
cooked and covered with wet napkins should now be placed 
in bowls, and covered with the strained turtle stock ; all of 
the stock remaining should be saved for soup. 



196 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



GREEN TURTLE THICK SOUP. 

For each quart of soup brown together, by stirring over 
the fire, one tablespoonful each of butter and flour ; when 
the butter and flour are brown, gradually add the strained 
turtle stock, stirring constantly until the soup is smooth ; 
season it palatably with salt and cayenne pepper ; add to 
each quart about half a dozen pieces of green fat, half a cup- 
ful each of the tender parts of the shell and the flesh of the 
turtle cut in inch bits, half a cupful of egg-balls or a few of 
the turtle eggs, and a dozen forcemeat balls if they are de- 
sired ; let the soup boil once ; then add to each quart a wine- 
glassful of good Madeira, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice and 
half a dozen thin slices of lemon, and serv^e it at once. 

EGG-BALLS FOR SOUP. 

Boil one egg hard, separate the yolk from the white, and 
break the yolk very fine with a fork ; add to the boiled yolk 
the yolk of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of salad-oil, a dust of 
cayenne, a small half salt-spoonful of salt, and enough flour 
to permit the paste to be rolled between the palms of the 
hands in little balls, the hands being slightly floured. When 
all the egg-balls are made, put them into a saucepan half full 
of salted boiling water, and boil them until they float upon 
the surface of the water ; then take them out of the boiling 
water with a skimmer, put them into the soup, and serve it. 

FORCEMEAT-BALLS FOR SOUP. . 

Mince very fine half a cupful of cold chicken, and then 
rub it through a sieve with a wooden spoon ; boil two eggs 
hard, and rub the yolks through the sieve in the same way ; 
mix with the chicken and hard yolks the yolk of a raw egg, 
a little salt and pepper, and flour enough to make a paste 
which can be rolled into little oval balls between the palms 



SOUPS {potage). 197 

of the hands ; poach the balls in salted boiling water until 
they float, and then use them in hot soup. 

GREEN TURTLE CLEAR SOUP. 

Proceed as follows to clarify turtle soup-stock made as 
already directed : For each quart of stock to be clarified 
allow the white and shell of one raw egg, and one table- 
spoonful of cold water ; mix the shell, white of egg, and 
water slightly in the bottom of a saucepan ; pour the cold 
stock on them, and set the saucepan over the fire ; let its 
contents slowly reach the boiling-point, stirring them several 
times to prevent the egg sticking to the bottom of the sauce-. 
pan ; let the soup boil gently until the egg rises to the sur- 
face in the form of a thick scum, and the soup appears quite 
clear under it ; then strain it through a folded towel laid in a 
colander, allowing it to run slowly through without squeezing 
the towel ; if it has grown cool in straining, -heat it again, see 
that it is palatably seasoned, and serve it hot with lemon and 
wine, as directed in the recipe for green turtle thick soup. 
The green fat of the turtle, cooked as directed in the recipe 
for killing a green turtle, is to be heated in boiling water and 
served in the turtle clear soup. If there is no fat, use in its 
place some of the soft parts of the shell boiled very soft. 



CHAPTER III. 

FISH AND SHELLFISH {Poisson). 

THE shellfish suitable for the first dinner service, before 
the soup, have already been mentioned ; the rest which 
are included in this chapter belong properly among the 
entrees, together with the fried, broiled, and scalloped fish. 
Only boiled and baked fish are appropriate for formal Eng- 
lish dinners ; frequently the small hot dishes of fried and 
broiled fish are served at little dinners, as well as at break- 
fasts, luncheons, and suppers. The service of small fish 
dishes is essentially Continental, and is both convenient and 
economical. Terrapin and green turtle are included in this 
chapter, although they are distinctive enough to be made a 
separate course at dinner. Madeira is the proper udne for 
terrapin, and punch is served with green turtle. The limited 
space for recipes in this volume does not admit of the possi- 
ble variety in this chapter, any more than in the others ; but 
here, as elsewhere, a sufficient number are given to indicate 
the great diversity of treatment which food may receive. 
The directions given for boning, boiling, frying, broiling, or 
baking any one kind of fish may be applied to any other 
which has the same general characteristics of size and tex- 
ture. The very dry-fleshed fish should be served with a 
sauce : fish which are either watery or very oily are best 
when cooked with direct exposure to the fire, as in broiling. 
198 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSOJV). 199 

These hints will serve as guides for more extended practice 
in the cookery of fish. 

HOW TO THAW FROZEN FISH. 

So much naturally frozen or refrigerated fish is used, that 
some directions concerning it may prove useful. When the 
fish is taken from the ice, put it into a large tub of cold 
water, and let it remain until the flesh is flexible enough to 
cut ; when the fish is so far freed from frost as to permit a 
cut to be made for drawing the intestines, remove them, and 
put the fish again in the cold water until every particle of 
frost is extracted, and the fish is perfectly flexible ; then drain 
it, and wipe it dry ; cook it according to any chosen recipe. 

LARGE FISH BOILED IN SLICES. 

^Vhen it is desired to serve an unusually large fish, and the 
facilities for cooking are limited, the fish may be cut in many 
slices, as shown in the accompanying engraving, carefully 




Large Fish boiled in Slices- 

boiled, either in a cloth or on the drainer of the fish-kettle, 
and then so placed upon the dish as to restore the form of 
the fish. This engraving is copied from Dubois, and repre- 
sents a sterlet, or small Russian sturgeon. Large salmon, 
pike, pickerel, or muscalonge, among American fish, may be 
dressed in this way. The garnish of the sterlet here shown 
is button mushrooms, truffles, and turned vegetables. Part 
of a sturgeon may be boiled in slices in this way. 



200 rRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



BOILED TURBOT WITH LOBSTER SAUCE. 

The thick gelatinous fins and skin of turbot, and the thick 
slices of flesh from the middle of the back, are the parts 
most esteemed by epicures ; and therefore in dressing turbot 
the fins must be retained. Wash the fish thoroughly, using 
plenty of coarse salt to remove the slime which clings to it 
as it does to blackfish, and rinse it in plenty of cold water ; 
remove the intestines, and again wash the fish ; then put it 
over the fire in a large ketde, with enough salted cold water 
to entirely cover it, and let the turbot boil gently about 
twenty minutes, or until the flesh begins to separate from 
the bones ; the fish must not be overdone. When it is 
cooked, take it up carefully, garnish it with parsley or lob- 
ster, as shown in the cuts which refer to carving it, and 
serve it with lobster sauce. 

LOBSTER SAUCE. 

To make lobster sauce, boil a lobster as directed in the 
recipe for boiled lobster, and remove it from the shell ; rub 
the coral through a sieve with a potato-masher, and mix it 
with an equal quantity of butter ; for a pint of sauce put a 
tablespoonful each of butter and flour over the fire in a thick 
saucepan, and stir them until they bubble ; then gradually 
stir in half a pint each of milk and water ; season the sauce 
with salt and cayenne, color it with the lobster butter, put 
in a cupful of lobster cut in half-inch pieces, and, as soon as 
the sauce boils, serve it with the turbot. 

BOILED HALIBUT. 

Halibut is an excellent fish for boiling and baking in thick 
slices ; the flesh is firm enough to retain its shape, and its 
flavor assimilates palatably with any fish-sauce. After wash- 
ing the halibut in plenty of cold water, put it over the fire in 



FISH AiVD SHELLFISH {POISSON). 20I 

cold salted water, boil it until the flakes begin to separate, 
and then drain it, and serve it with any good sauce. 

FRIED HALIBUT. 

To fry two pounds of halibut, first slice half- a pound of 
fat salt pork, and fry it slowly in a large frying-pan until it is 
light brown ; then take it up, and keep it hot while the hali- 
but is being fried. Wash the fish in cold salted water, dry 
it on a clean cloth, cover it on both sides with Indian meal 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry it brown on both 
sides in the pork-drippings. Serve the pork with the halibut. 
A very nice gravy may be made for the dish by pouring 
nearly all the fat out of the frying-pan, after the fish is done, 
and putting in it a pint of milk mixed smoothly with a level 
tablespoonful of flour ; season the gravy palatably with salt 
and pepper, stir it constantly until it boils for one minute, 
and then send it in a bowl to the table with the fried halibut. 
Halibut is a good fish for broiling in slices, according to any 
of the recipes given for broiled fish. 

FLUKE BONED AND BAKED. 

Thoroughly wash the fish in cold water, lay it on its side 
on the table, and with a sharp, thin-bladed knife make a 
straight cut from the middle of the head, down the side, to 
the middle of the tail, cutting through the flesh down to the 
bone ; then, with the point of the knife, begin to cut the 
flesh from the bone at the head, lifting it with the left hand 
as it is cut, so that the edge of the knife may not mangle it, 
and keeping the knife laid flat and close to the bone until 
the flesh is cut outward to the fins, and free from the bone 
from the head to the tail ; then cut it off along the line of 
the fins ; this will give one-fourth of the flesh of the fish in 
the form of a long, narrow strip ; cut off" the remaining 
three-fourths in the same manner, and lay the strips, skin 



202 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOk'KRY. 

down, upon the table. To remove the skin, hold the tail 
end of one of the strips firmly with the left hand ; take the 
knife in the right hand, and cut down through the flesh of 
the strip at the end nearest the left hand, until the skin is 
reached, but do not cut through the skin. When the edge 
of the knife reaches the skin, begin slowly to turn the knife 
with the edge outward until the blade lies flat on the skin 
and against the table ; keep the knife in this position, and 
cut toward the upper end of the strip, taking care neither to 
turn the edge of the knife upward, as that would send it 
into the flesh, nor downward, because that would make it cut 
through the skin. If these directions are carefully followed, 
the skin can be removed from the flesh without any waste. 
After the skin is taken off, cut the strips of fish in pieces of 
even size, about two inches wide and five inches long. 

Roll up as many of these pieces as are desired, making 
a little compact roll of each one, and place them side by 
side in an earthen dish which will just contain them ; season 
them highly with salt and pepper, put a bit of butter about 
half an inch square on each one, and bake them in a hot 
oven until the flakes begin to separate ; then serve them at 
once in the dish in which they were baked. Fluke is good 
either fried or broiled. 

These directions will serve as a guide in boning any kind 
of fresh fish. Fish which has been frozen cannot be boned 
easily, because the flakes are apt to break apart upon the least 
pressure. 

BLUEFISH BAKED WHOLE. 

Choose a medium-sized bluefish ; have it drawn from the 
gills to avoid splitting it ; wash it in cold salted water, and 
stuff it with the following forcemeat : Soak a pint of stale 
bread in cold water, and squeeze out the water when the 
bread is soft ; meanwhile chop fine a small onion, two table- 
spoonfuls of parsley, and a teaspoonful of fresh thyme, savor)', 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 



203 



or sweet marjoram ; put these ingredients into a frying-pan 
with a tablespoonful of butter and the soaked bread, and 
stir them over the fire until they are smoking-hot. Use this 
forcemeat for stuffing the fish. On the bottom of a dripping- 
pan put half a pound of salt pork, cut in slices ; lay the fish 
on the pork, season it highly with salt and pepper, and put 
it into a hot oven to bake. Let it cook until it is nicely 
browned, and the skin begins to crack ; a medium-sized fish 
will cook in about an hour. Change the fish from the pan 
to a hot platter, lay the pork on it, and serve it as soon as it 
is done. 

Bluefish is excellent either fried or broiled. 

SLICES OF FISH BOILED. 

When a fish is very large, like bluefish, pike, or salmon, and 
not all is required, portions of it may be boiled in slices of 
different sizes, and then served. The slices shown in the 
accompanying picture are about two inches thick ; they can 




Slices of Fish Boiled. 



be laid upon the drainer of a fish-kettle to boil, or wrapped 
separately in pieces of cloth, and then boiled ; care must be 
taken to keep them intact, for if they are broken the beauty 
of the dish is greatly impaired. After the slices of fish are 
boiled, they may be served upon a napkin, on a bed of 



204 rRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

parsley, with some small balls cut from potatoes and boiled, 
or with any garnish preferred, and sent to the table with 
any chosen fish-sauce. The larger portions of a cut fish are 
called, in the French cookery-books, a dame and a fron- 
ton, as shown in engravings subsequently given. 

SHRIMP OR PRAWN SAUCE. 

Either of these sauces is excellent for boiled fish. Both 
shrimp and prawns are now marketed already boiled, and 
very good prawns are sent from the South in cans ; the fish 
may be used in any of these forms, and are simply added to 
a good white sauce, just before serving it, in the proportion 
of a cupful of dressed shrimp or prawns to a quart of white 
sauce. 

When fresh shrimp or prawns are used, they are to be 
freed from bits of sea-grass or weed which may have been 
used in packing them for transportation, and then boiled in 
plenty of salted boiling water until the shells turn red. After 
the fish are boiled, the flesh of the tails is taken from the 
shells, and it is then ready for use. 

WHITE SAUCE. 

For a quart of white sauce, stir together over the fire t\vo 
tablespoohfuls each of butter and flour until they begin to 
bubble ; then gradually stir in a quart of boiling water, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt and white pepper ; stir the 
sauce until it boils, and then serve it. Substituting milk or 
cream for part of the boiling water makes cream sauce. 
Usually a very little nutmeg is employed in the seasoning of 
cream sauce. 

BOILED PIKE WITH CAPER SAUCE. 

Thoroughly clean a pike, drawing the intestines from a 
small cut near the gills to avoid splitting the fish ; fasten the 



FISH AND SHELLFISH (POISSOiV). 205 

head and tail of the fish together so that it forms a circle, 
and then lay it on the drainer of a fish-kettle, or tie it in a 
cloth if it is to be boiled in an ordinary saucepan ; cover the 
fish with cold water, add half a cupful each of salt and vine- 
gar, place the kettle over the fire, and boil the fish gently until 
a fin can be easily pulled out ; then dish it without break- 
ing it, and serve it with a bowl of caper sauce, which is to 
be made while the fish is being boiled. 

CAPER SAUCE. 

Make a pint of white sauce, and let it boil for t\vo min- 
utes ; chop two tablespoonfuls of capers a few times, or use 
them whole ; after the sauce has boiled, add the capers, 
together with a palatable seasoning of salt and white pepper, 
and then use the sauce. 

PIKE. 

Pike is one of the best fish for frying in slices. It is also 
excellent when broiled. 

PICKEREL. 

Pickerel may be cooked like pike, by boiling, frying, broil- 
ing, or baking. 

FRIED BLACKFISH. 

Clean the blackfish by putting it into cold water after it is 
scaled, and rubbing it thoroughly with a handful of salt ; 
draw the intestines from the gills, and then again wash the 
fish in cold water ; have ready a frying-kettle half full of fat 
over the fire, and a plateful of Indian meal seasoned with 
salt and pepper ; cut the fish across in slices about an inch 
thick, trim off the fins and tail, roll the slices in the meal, 
and then fry them brown in the hot fat ; when the fish is 
done, take it out of the fat with a skimmer ; lay it on brown 
paper for a moment to free it from grease, and then serve it 
hot. A lemon, cut in quarters, makes a good garnish for 
fried fish. 



206 PRACr/CAI. AMERICAN COOKERY. 



LARDED FISH. 

Sometimes fish are larded for baking, as shown in the en- 
graving in the chapter on Carving. A large piece of the 
skin is removed from the back of the fish, and lardoons are 
inserted as directed in the recipe for Xaxdxng/ricandeaux of 
veal ; the fish is sometimes stuffed, and generally served 
with a brown mushroom sauce. The lardoons are pro- 
tected by Inittered paper until the fish is nearly done ; then 
the paper is removed to permit them to brown ; the larded 
fish is served hot. 

FRIED COD AND HADDOCK. 

Use equal parts of fresh codfish and haddock ; after the 
fish has been scaled and drawn, split it down the back, cut 
out the backbone, cut the fish in pieces about two inches 
square, season it with salt and pepper, and roll it in Indian 
meal ; for three or four pounds of fish, slice a quarter of a 
pound of salt pork ; put the pork into a frying-pan, and 
brown it ; lay the fried pork on a hot dish, and keep it hot ; 
if the pork has not yielded suf^cient drippings, put enough 
lard into the i)an to cover the bottom to the depth of half 
an inch ; set the pan over the fire, and when the fat is smok- 
ing hot put in the fish, and brown it on both sides ; then 
serve it with the fried pork. 

Either cod or haddock is excellent boiled or baked. 

TRONgON OF FISH. 

A /ronton of fish is a large piece cut from the middle of 
a large fish, such as cod, salmon, or sturgeon ; it is usually 
boiled, being laid upon the drainer of the fish-kettle, or tied 
in a cloth, to preserve its form. A tron^on of boiled salmon 
may be served with any preferred sauce ; cucumber, shrimp, 
a id anchovy are among the best fish-sauces. The fish may 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 20/ 

be laid upon a folded napkin or a bed of parsley. The cuts 
in the side of the tronqon are simply scores made to keep 
the skin from breaking unevenly during cooking. 




Ttoncon, or Middle Cut, of Fish. 
BOILED BASS. 

Have the fish carefully scaled, and the entrails removed 
at the gills ; wash it in cold water, and put it into a saucepan 
with sufficient cold water to cover it, and two tablespoonfuls 
of salt ; set the saucepan over the fire, and let its contents 
reach the boiling-point, and boil slowly for about five min- 
utes ; then try to pull out one of the fins ; if it separates 
readily from the body, take the fish out of the water without 
breaking it, lay it on a napkin folded on a platter, surround 
it with half a dozen hard-boiled eggs without the shells, and 
it serve it with a sauce made as follows : — 

HOT MUSTARD SAUCE. 

While the fish is being boiled, mix together over the fire 
a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, gradually stir into 
them a pint of boiling water, a level teaspoonful of made 
mustard, a tal)lespoonful of chopped pickles or capers, a 
saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pep- 
per ; stir the sauce until it boils for two minutes, and then it 
will be ready to use with the fish. Meantime boil six eggs 



208 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

quite hard, remove the shells without breaking the eggs, cut 
them in quarters, and use them for garnishing the fish. 
When eggs are high-priced, use only two ; boil them hard, 
chop them, and sprinkle them on top of the fish. 

BASS. 

Bass is excellent for baking, frying, or broihng. Any of 
the recipes for cooking large fish will serve for preparing 
bass. 

BOILED SHEEPS-HEAD. 

Thoroughly clean and wash the fish, rub it all over with 
dry salt, and soak it in cold water for an hour ; then remove 
it from the water, wipe it dry, score it several times across 
both sides, and rub it with a lemon cut in halves ; lay the 
sheeps-head thus prepared on the drainer of a fish-kettle, or 
place it in an ordinary kettle after tying it in a cloth ; cover 
the fish with cold water and milk equally mixed, add a level 
tablespoonful of salt, and let the fish gradually boil, and 
then gently simmer for half an hour. 

In dishing the fish, be very careful to transfer it from the 
kettle to- a platter without breaking it ; pour a little of the 
sauce around the sheeps-head on the dish. 

Sheeps-head are very good either fried or baked. 

CREAM SAUCE. 

Put in a saucepan over the fire four tablespoonfuls 
of butter and two of flour, and stir them until they are 
smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint of cream 
or rich milk, a saltspoonful of powdered mace, quarter of 
a saltspoonful of white pepper, a dust of cayenne, and a 
level teaspoonful of salt ; let the sauce boil for two or three 
minutes, and serve it with the boiled sheeps-head. A cupful 
of chopped boiled lobster is sometimes added to this sauce, 
or the grated coral of a lobster. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 209 

REDSNAPPER. 

This favorite Southern fish, now so common on the Eastern 
seaboard, may be boiled or baked. 

WHITEFISH. 

The large and fine whitefish of the great Western lakes is 
excellent either boiled, baked, or broiled. 

DARNE OF SALMON. 

A dame of fish is a very thick slice of the middle portion ; 
its shape is preserved during boiling by wrapping it in a 




Dame, or Thick Slice, of Salmon. 

cloth, or laying it on the drainer of a fish-kettle. After the 
fish is boiled, it may be used hot, with a garnish of parsley 
and any chosen sauce ; or may be cooled, and masked or 
covered with meat-jelly, or any such cold thick sauce as 
mayonnaise, or Dutch sauce. A second sauce of contrasting 
color can be used for special ornamentation ; for instance, 
the darne of salmon shown in the illustration may be 
masked with mayonnaise, and the figures then laid on with 
lobster-coral smoothly mixed with a little mayonnaise ; the 
little cubes are cut out of aspic jelly. The shellfish laid upon 
the dame may be a small boiled lobster or a large crayfish ; 



2IO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

a bunch of fine parsley or watercress may replace the shell- 
fish when it is out of season. 

BOILED SALMON. 

Wash two pounds of fresh salmon in plenty of cold 
water ; put it over the fire in plenty of boiling salted water, 
and boil it rapidly until the flakes begin to separate ; then 
drain it, and serve it with a white sauce made by mixing 
together over the fire one tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour until they bubble, and then gradually stirring in a pint 
of boiling water. Stir the sauce until it boils, season it palat- 
ably with salt and pepper, and then serve it with the boiled 
salmon. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE. 

A teaspoonful of anchovy paste mixed with the white 
sauce will make anchovy sauce, which is an excellent ac- 
companiment for boiled salmon. 

SALMON. 

Fresh green peas boiled make a good garnish for boiled 
salmon. 

A middle cut of salmon is excellent baked. 

Slices of salmon may be fried plain, breaded, or rolled in 
flour, or broiled plain. 

FRESH MACKEREL FRIED. 

Have ready on the fire a dripping-pan containing hot fat 
half an inch deep ; have two or three medium-sized fresh 
mackerel drawn at the gills, but not split ; wash them in 
cold salted water, dry them on a clean cloth, and score 
them to the bone on both sides, making the cuts about two 
inches apart ; season them with salt and pepper, and quickly 
brown them on both sides in the hot fat ; while they are 
being fried, chop finely a small onion and about two table- 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 211 

spoonfuls of parsley, and put them over the fish. When the 
fish are done, serve them on a hot platter with the parsley 
and onion, and a teaspoonful of melted butter on each fish, 

A lemon cut in quarters makes a nice garnish for this 
dish. 

Fresh mackerel is very good for frying or broiling. 

SPANISH MACKEREL BROILED. 

Have a Spanish mackerel split down the back, and the 
backbone taken out ; wash it in cold salted water, and dry 
it on a clean cloth ; put it between the bars of a buttered 
double wire gridiron, and lay the gridiron in a dripping-pan. 
Rake all the ashes from the fire, and set the dripping-pan in 
front of it, where the heat will strike the fish. Melt two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, mix it with one tablespoonful of 
onion-juice or vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter 
of a saltspoonful of pepper, and use the mixture to baste 
the fish with while it is broiling. As soon as it is brown on 
both sides, serve it hot, with the drippings in the pan poured 
over it. If it is more convenient to broil the fish over the 
fire, do not put the melted butter and seasonings on it until 
it is dished. All broiled fish should be quickly cooked, or 
it will become hard and dry. 

Broiled Spanish mackerel is also excellent with the butter 
called maUre d'hotel, which is made by mixing together a 
tablespoonful each of chopped parsley and cold butter, a tea- 
spoonful of lemon-juice, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
and pepper. 

Spanish mackerel may be boiled, and served with any 
good sauce. 

BROILED POMPANO, CUCUMBER SAUCE. 

Have the fish scaled, drawn, and thoroughly washed in 
cold water ; score it to the bone on both sides, making three 



212 PRACTICAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

or four cuts across the fish ; season it Hghtly with salt and 
pepper, place it between the bars of a buttered double wire 
gridiron, and quickly broil it over a hot fire for about five 
minutes on each side, or until the flesh begins to cleave from 
the bones. Serve it on a hot platter, with a tablespoonful 
of butter spread over it, and a little salt and pepper dusted 
on it. Pompano is excellent when fried or boiled. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE. 

Cucumber sauce is delicious with broiled pompano ; it is 
made by adding a very little juice squeezed from grated 
cucumber, or the cucumber itself, to a mayonnaise sauce. 
The cucumber-juice must be used with great caution, because 
it possesses decided medicinal properties. 

TO KEEP SHAD OVER NIGHT. 

Have the shad cleaned, split down the back, and washed 
in cold water ; mix together half a cupful of brown sugar, a 
tablespoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of cayenne-pepper ; 
dry the shad on a towel, lay it on a platter, skin down, spread 
the sugar, salt, and pepper over it, cover it with another 
platter, and let it stand in a cool place. Before cooking it, 
wipe off the seasoning with a dry towel, and cook the fish 
at once. 

BROILED SHAD. 

Clean and wash the shad, split it down the back, and take 
out the backbone ; lay the fish between the bars of a but- 
tered wire gridiron, and put the inside over a hot fire ; have 
ready a cup containing two tablespoonfuls of butter melted 
and seasoned with pepper and salt, and while the fish is 
being broiled brush it with the butter every five minutes ; 
broil the inside of the shad about twenty minutes, then turn 
it over and carefully brown the skin, taking care not to burn 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 213 

the fish in any part. As soon as it is cooked lay it, skin 
down, on a hot dish, pour over it any melted butter remain- 
ing in the cup, or spread some fresh butter over it ; season 
it with pepper and salt, and serve it hot immediately. 
Watercresses, lemon in slices, or cucumbers are the usual 
garnishes. 

FRIED SHAD. 

After the shad is cleaned and washed, split it down the 
back, cut out the backbone, divide the fish in pieces about 
three or four inches square, and lay them on a clean dry 
cloth ; have ready a dripping-pan or a large frying-pan con- 
taining hot fat half an inch deep ; roll the fish in flour 
seasoned with salt and pepper, put it into the fat when it is 
smoking hot, and fry it brown on both sides ; use a broad 
spatula or cake-turner to turn over the pieces of shad, in 
order to keep them entire ; as fast as the pieces brown, lift 
them out of the pan, lay them for a moment on brown paper 
to free them from fat, and then put them on a hot dish. 
Fried shad should be served with lemon, pickles, or cu- 
cumbers. 

Shad is excellent either boiled or baked. 

SHAD-ROE. 

After a shad-roe is well washed in cold water, wipe it quite 
dry on a clean towel, put it between the bars of a double 
wire gridiron thickly buttered, and broil it brown on both 
sides ; when the roe is brown, serve it with butter, lemon- 
juice, and parsley, or with plain butter, pepper, and salt. A 
garnish of sliced cucumbers or tomatoes, or a few water- 
cresses, may be served with the broiled roe ; and a dish of 
mashed potatoes should be sent to the table with it. 

Shad-roe may be fried in enough fat to prevent burning, 
with a loose cover over the pan to protect the cook from the 
fat which it spatters about. 



214 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

EELS. 

To broil eels, have them thoroughly cleaned and washed ; 
split them, take out the bone, and then cut them in pieces 
about three inches long ; make a seasoning with plenty of 
finely chopped parsley, a palatable quantity of pepper, salt, 
powdered mace, and very little sage ; have ready a couple of 
eggs beaten smooth, a dish of bread-crumbs, and a double 
wire gridiron well buttered ; dip the pieces of eel first in 
the Qgg, then in the bread-crumbs, and then in the season- 
ing, lay them between the bars of the gridiron, and broil 
them over a hot fire. While they are being broiled, mix 
together a spoonful of anchovy paste or chopped anchovies 
and a tablespoonful of butter, and spread them over the 
broiled eels ; serve the eels hot as soon as they are done. 
Eels prepared in the same way (or plain) may be fried in 
hot butter instead of being broiled ; or they may be broiled 
without breading, simply splitting them and laying them in 
a buttered double wire gridiron, and after they are cooked 
serving them with salt, pepper, and butter. Eels may be 
stewed in white sauce, after being parboiled ; or baked in a 
brown gravy. 

FRIED SMELTS ON SKEWERS. 

The picture here given shows smelts fried upon skewers. 
When the fish are clean and fresh, they may be wiped with 
a wet towel (for some epicures think that their delicate flavor 
is injured by washing them), and then dried upon a clean one. 
The frying-ketde, partly filled with fat, should be heating ; 
and a dish of beaten eggs, and another of fine crumbs sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, ready near the fire. First dip 
the smelts in milk, then lay them in the crumbs, covering 
every part of them ; from the crumbs remove them to the 
beaten egg, immersing the entire fish, and then again lay 
them in the crumbs ; while they are still in the crumbs, run 



F/SH AND SHELLFISH {PO/SSOJV). 



215 



a sharp, thin nickel or silver skewer through the eyes or gills 
of four or six, according to their size, taking care not to 
brush off the crumbs ; when the fat is smoking hot, put in 
one skewerful of smelts, and fry them golden brown ; when 
they are done, take them up with a skimmer, lay them on 
brown paper in a dripping-pan, and keep them hot on the 




Fried Smelts on Skewers. 

oven-door until all are fried ; arrange them on a dish with 
fried parsley and lemon as a garnish, and serve them hot. 

BROILED SMELTS. 

Wash the fish in cold salted water, dry them on a clean 
towel ; dip them in melted butter highly seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and a dust of cayenne, place them between the bars 
of a double wire gridiron, and broil them about eight min- 
utes over a hot fire. If the fish are small, they will cook in 
five minutes. Serve them on a hot dish with a sliced lemon. 
Instead of dipping the smelts in melted butter, they may 
be laid between very thin slices of bacon, and broiled, the 
bacon being served with them. 



FRIED BUTTERFISH. 

After the fish have been properly cleaned, wash them in 
cold salted water, dry them on a clean cloth, make several 



2l6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

deep cuts to the bone on each side of the fish, roll them 
in Indian meal seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry them 
in sufficient smoking-hot fat to prevent burning. Or, slice, 
for two pounds of fish, a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork, 
and fry it brown ; then roll the fish in flour, pepper, and salt ; 
fry them with the pork, and serve them together. 

AMERICAN WHITE-BAIT. 

Use any small fish about two inches long. Wash the fish, 
dry them on a clean towel, put them into a sieve containing 
a little flour seasoned with salt and cayenne-pepper, and 
shake them about so that a little of the flour adheres to 
them ; have ready over the fire a frying- kettle half full of fat, 
and when it begins to smoke throw in the fish, and let them 
fry for half a minute ; then take them up with a skimmer, 
and serve them at once with brown bread and butter and 
lemon. 

The bread should be cut very thin, buttered, and two slices 
laid together ; in this form it is piled on a plate : the slices 
are cut about an inch wide, and three inches long. 

OLD STYLE OF FRYING WHITE-BAIT. 

Have ready a frying-kettle containing at least two inches 
of fat, and make it hot over the fire ; have at hand also a 
frying-basket of wire ; in a clean dry towel, put half a cup- 
ful of flour and the white-bait, and shake them together; 
then put the fish into the wire basket, and shake off all the 
loose flour. Let a drop of water fall into the hot fat : if it 
sputters, the fat is right. Put in the frying-basket, and crisp 
the white-bait, but do not brown them ; as soon as they are 
crisp lift the basket, and throw the white-bait upon a napkin 
folded on a hot dish; cut a lemon, and put it with them, 
and serve them with a plate of brown bread cut thin and 
buttered. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 21/ 

TROUT WITH CREAM GRAVY. 

After the trout have been cleaned and washed, roll them 
in Indian meal seasoned with salt and pepper ; put a frying- 
pan over the fire with enough fat in it to cover the bottom 
to the depth of half an inch when it is melted, and when 
the fat is smoking hot put in the trout, and quickly fry them 
brown all over ; when the trout are brown, take them up on 
a hot dish, and keep them hot. Pour out of the frying-pan 
nearly all the fat ; put a cupful of milk into the pan, and stir 
it until it boils ; if the meal which adheres to the pan makes 
the milk too thick, add a little more. Lef the gravy thus 
made boil for a minute ; season it palatably with salt and 
white pepper, pour it into a gravy-boat, and serve it. with the 
fried trout. If flour is preferred, it may be used instead of 
the meal. 

FRIED TROUT. 

Clean, wash, and dry small trout ; season them with pep- 
per and salt ; roll them in dry flour, and then plunge them 
into enough smoking-hot fat to entirely cover them. As soon 
as they rise to the surface of the fat, and are light brown, 
take them up with a skimmer, lay them for a moment on 
brown paper to free them from fat, and then serve them at 
once. 

In the country, trout are usually fried with salt pork. 

BOILED TROUT. 

Small trout wrapped in a napkin, boiled in salted water, 
and served with green peas, are delicious. 

NEW ENGLAND FISH-CHOWDER. 

Slice a quarter of a pound of salt pork, and fry it over a 
gentle fire, using a large, round-bottom iron pot ; when the 
pork is light brown, take it out of the fat which it has yielded 
in frying, and put it on a plate for future use. While the 



2l8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

pork is frying, peel and slice two large onions, and fry them 
light brown with the pork, removing them from the fat when 
the pork is taken out. Meantime peel and slice four more 
large onions ; peel ten medium-sized potatoes, and slice them 
a quarter of an inch thick ; cut up five pounds of fresh cod- 
fish or haddock in slices an inch thick, removing the bones, 
and the skin also if it is disliked. Have ready a pound of sea- 
biscuit or pilot-crackers, and salt and pepper for seasoning. 

After the pork and onions are taken up, leaving the drip- 
pings in the pot, put into it first a layer of fish, next a layer 
of potatoes, then a layer of the raw onions ; season each 
layer with a level teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of ground pepper. Repeat the layers of fish, 
potatoes, and onions, until one-half the ingredients have 
been used ; then put in one-half the pork and half a pound 
of the crackers, and season as before. Add the remainder of 
the fish, potatoes, and onions, in layers, seasoning as already 
directed, and on the top put the rest of the pork and crack- 
ers. Over all these ingredients pour sufficient cold water to 
reach three inches above the top layer, and cover and place 
the pot where the chowder will boil gently for an hour ; the 
heat must not be intense, for if the chowder should burn it 
would be spoiled. At the end of an hour add a pint of 
milk, let the chowder boil once, and serve it in a soup-tureen, 
using soup-plates for dishing it. The same kind of crackers 
used in making it are served with it. 

When this chowder is made for a party of gentlemen, half 
a pint of Madeira wine is generally used in place of milk. 

The Rhode-Island chowder is made without potatoes, 
and a quart of cider and a pint of port are added to it. 

CLAM- CHO WDER. 

Use half a peck of hard or soft clams in the shell. After 
the clams are taken from the shells, cut the soft parts free, 



FTSn A. YD SHELLFISH (PO/SSO.V). 219 

and chop the rest quite fine ; put the chopped parts into a 
deep kettle, with water enough to cover them, and boil them 
gently until they begin to grow tender ; meantime peel and 
slice two onions, six potatoes of medium size, and a pint of 
tomatoes ; soak a pound of sea-biscuit in milk. When the 
chopped clams are tender, take them out of the kettle with 
a skimmer, and put in all the ingredients specified above, in 
layers, alternating with the clams, and using the soft parts 
in addition to the chopped clams. Season each layer with 
salt, pepper, and a little powdered thyme, savory, and jweet 
marjoram ; over all pour enough cold water to entirely cover 
the chowder. Cover the kettle, and place it over the fire 
where the chowder will boil gently for about twenty minutes ; 
then see if the potatoes and onions are tender. As soon as 
they are done, test the seasoning of the chowder ; make it 
palatable, and then serve it. 

SALT-FISH DINNER. 

Soak two pounds of salt codfish over night, in cold water, 
putting the fish into the water with the skin uppermost. The 
next morning wash the fish, and put it into a large kettle with 
plenty of fresh cold water; set the kettle on the back of 
the stove, where the water will keep hot without boiling, and 
let the fish scald until just before dinner-time ; then boil it 
gently for five minutes, drain it, and serve it with melted 
butter made as described below, or with pork-scraps. Boiled 
potatoes and boiled beets are sometimes served with the salt 
fish, and in the season a dish of boiled parsnips. 

MELTED BUTTER. 

■ This old-fashioned sauce is seldom well made, but it is so 
excellent that it deserves attention. It should be made 
about fifteen minutes before dinner-time. Put in a clean 
saucepan over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 



220 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

flour, and stir them until they bubble ; then gradually stir in 
a pint of l)oiling water, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter 
of a saltspoonful of white i)eijper, and stir the sauce until 
it is at the boiling point. When the sauce boils, draw the 
saucepan to the side of the fire, where its contents will keep 
hot without boiling, and stir into it, one at a time, three 
tablespoonfuls of butter, taking care that each one is en- 
tirely mixed with the sauce before adding another. As soon 
as the butter is stirred in, serve the sauce in a hot sauceboat. 

SALT-FISH HASH. 

Chop cold boiled salt fish fine, after removing all the skin 
and bones ; chop twice as much boiled potato as there is 
fish ; allow a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork for every 
pound of fish, slice it, and fry it brown in a frying-pan, and 
then take it up, leaving the drippings in the pan, and keep 
it hot ; put the minced fish and potatoes into the frying-pan, 
with a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and stir them 
until they are hot ; then move them to one side of the pan, 
form them by pressing them together into a cake, let them 
brown on the bottom, and then turn them out on a hot dish, 
and serve them with the fried pork. The quantity of pork 
given will generally yield enough drippings to fry the hash ; 
but if there should not be sufficient, a little butter may be 
used, only enough to brown the hash. 

COD'S TONGUES WITH EGG SAUCE. 

Wash two pounds of salt cod's tongue in cold water, pour 
lukewarm water over them, and let them remain where the 
water will retain its heat for two hours or longer ; after the 
tongues have been soaked, put them over the fire in enough 
cold water to cover them ; add a cupful of milk and a small 
red-pepper pod or a palatable seasoning of cayenne, and 
cook them slowly for about half an hour, or until they are 



FISH AA'D SHELLFISH {POISSON). 221 

tender ; meantime boil three eggs hard, remove the shells 
and chop the eggs. Just before the tongues are done, put 
in a saucepan over the fire a heaping tablespoonful each 
of butter and flour, and stir them together until they begin 
to bubble ; then gradually stir in enough of the milk and 
water in which the tongues were boiled to make the sauce 
sufficiently salt, and more milk to bring it to the consistency 
of thick cream ; put the tongues into the sauce, add the 
chopped eggs, and then serve them hot. 

Tongues and sounds are good either fried, broiled, or 
baked ; care being taken to freshen them first. 

BOILED SALT MACKEREL WITH BUTTER. 

Either freshen a salt mackerel by soaking it over night 
in cold water, with the skin up, or by repeatedly heating it in 
fresh water frequently clianged. The fish should be placed, 
skin upward, flat in a pan large enough to hold it, and 
covered with cold water, the pan being put over a gentle 
fire. As soon as the water is scalding hot, it should be 
poured off and replaced with cold. The fibre of the fish 
is not hardened by this process ; and generally, by the time 
the fish is fresh enough to use, it is cooked. While the fish 
is being freshened, make a sauce as directed below ; and 
when the fish is freshened drain it, pour the sauce over it, 
and serve it. The mackerel may be soaked, then broiled, and 
served with white sauce or clarified butter, and a dish of 
boiled potatoes. 

CLARIFIED BUTTER. 

Put in a cup or small saucepan four heaping tablespoon- 
fiils of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of white pepper, and set it in a pan of hot water 
over the fire where the butter will slowly melt ; as soon as 
it is melted, carefully pour it into a sauceboat, without dis- 
turbing the sediment at the bottom, and serve it at once. 



322 PRACTICAL AMKIUCAN COOKERY. 



DRIED SALMON. 

After the fish has been scaled, split it down the back, 
remove the entrails, saving the roe ; then rub the fish 
thoroughly with dry salt, and hang it by the gills to drain 
over night. The next day mix together two ounces each 
of powdered rock-salt and brown sugar and four ounces of 
powdered saltpetre ; rub this mixture well into the fish, and 
lay it on a large dish for two days ; then drain the fish, rub 
it thoroughly with dry salt, hang it by the gills, and let it 
dry. After it is thoroughly dry, it will be ready for use. 

Dried salmon may be stewed in white sauce, broiled, and 
served with butter and pepper, or cut in thin strips and 
served as a relish ; or broiled or fried, after it is soaked 
over night in cold water, or brought to the boiling-point 
after having been put over the fire in cold water enough 
to cover it. 

SALTED SHAD. 

After the shad have been scaled, split them dowTi the 
back, clean them, saving the roes, wash them in plenty of 
cold water, and lay them in a wooden tray or tub, with fine 
salt sprinkled thickly between the fish ; let the fish stand 
in this salt for two days. Then drain and wipe the shad, 
again sprinkle them with coarse salt, and pack them away 
in boxes or tubs. Before using salted shad, soak them over 
night in fresh water, laying the skin upward. 

After salt shad has been freshened, it may be baked, 
boiled, broiled, or fried. 

DIAMOND-BACK TERRAPIN. 

The accompanying cut shows a diamond-back terrapin. 
The short, thick legs are covered with a greenish-black skin ; 
the tail is small and short ; the head is thick, and is gen- 
erally drawn close to or under the shell ; the back shell is 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 



22^ 



divided into clearly defined sections, the lines of which 
converge towards the centre, the centre itself being per- 
ceptibly raised and slightly pointed ; these points form a 
series of elevations down the middle of the back, which 
give the terrapin its name of diamond-back. 




Diamond-Back Terrapin. 



HOW TO BOIL TERRAPIN. 

Terrapin should be alive when brought from the market. 
Wash them by putting them for half an hour into a tub or 
large pan half full of clean cold water ; have over the fire 
a large pot half full of boiling water ; plunge the terrapin 
into this, head first, grasping them from the back to avoid 
the possibility of a bite ; let the terrapin boil from five to 
ten minutes, or until the skin of the claws or legs can be 
rubbed off with a wet cloth ; after this outer skin is removed, 
put the terrapin again over the fire in sufficient clean boil- 
ing water to cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt to each 
quart of water, and boil them gently until the shells begin 
to separate at the sides : the length of time will vary. The 
shells are joined at each side, between the fore and hind 
claws or legs, with small serrated joints, which part slightly 
when the terrapin are tender ; sometimes they are tender 
in fifteen or twenty minutes, but often a longer time is 
required for boiling. When the shells of the terrapin can 
be parted, take them from the boiling water, and let them 
cool until they can be dressed. 



224 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

HOW TO DRESS TERRAPIN. 

Loosen the sides of the shells of boiled terrapin as soon 
as they are cool enough to handle ; lift oft" the top shell, 
which is held to the spine of the terrapin by small bands 
of flesh ; these are to be pulled or cut apart ; then remove 
the under shell. The entrails of the terrapin lie in a mass 
with the eggs and liver embedded in them, and the legs are 
attached to them by crossing bands of flesh ; pull off the 
legs, leaving the flesh attached to them, break off the sharp 
claws at the extremities of the feet ; separate and throw away 
the head, and put the legs on a dish ; carefully remove all 
the eggs, and put them into a bowl of hot water ; sepa- 
rate the liver from the entrails, and cut out that part of the 
liver which contains the small dark-green gall-bag that can 
be seen at one side of the liver. The utmost care should be 
taken to avoid cutting or breaking the gall-bag : in remov- 
ing it, the liver should be held over an empty dish, and, if 
the gall-bag is cut or broken, the liver should be thrown 
away, and the hands washed before the dressing of the ter- 
rapin is resumed. After the gall-bag is removed, cut the 
liver in pieces about half an inch square, and put it with 
the flesh of the terrapin. Only the flesh, eggs, and liver of 
terrapin are ordinarily used ; old Southern cooks sometimes 
scalded and scraped the intestines, and added them to ter- 
rapin stew. When there are no eggs in terrapin, egg-balls 
are made to accompany it ; a good recipe is given else- 
where. 

BROWN STEW OF TERRAPIN. 

For a pint of terrapin meat, put into a saucepan two heap- 
ing tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour, and stir them 
together over the fire until they are delicately browned; 
then stir in a pint of the second water in which the terrapin 
was boiled, or a pint of boiling water. When the sauce is 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 225 

Stirred quite smooth, season it with a level teaspoonful of 
salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful each of pepper and nutmeg, 
and a dust of cayenne ; put the terrapin into the sauce, heat 
it scalding hot, draw it to the side of the fire, add four raw 
yolks of eggs beaten smooth, and then at once serve the 
terrapin in a tureen containing a gill of good Madeira and 
a tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

STEWED TERRAPIN WITH CREAM. 

For a pint of terrapin-meat, use two heaping tablespoon- 
fuls of butter and one of dry flour ; stir them over the fire 
in a thick saucepan until they bubble ; then gradually stir in 
a pint of cream, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
saltspoonful each of white pepper and grated nutmeg, and 
a dust of cayenne ; next put the terrapin into the sauce, 
and stir it until it is scalding hot ; draw the saucepan to the 
side of the fire, where its contents will not boil, and stir 
in the yolks of four raw eggs previously beaten smooth ; do 
not allow the terrapin to boil after adding the eggs, but 
pour it at once into a tureen containing a gill of good 
Madeira and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and serve it. 

GREEN TURTLE. 

The cuts of turtle copied from Dubois, and given in the 
chapter on Soups, show the upper and under shell of a 
green turtle, and one manner of killing it, by laying it upon 
a sloping table after the throat is cut, and allowing it to 
bleed ; another method is to hang it by the hind fins, with 
the head down, and so let it bleed. The under shell, or 
calipee, is of a yellowish-white color ; and the upper shell, 
or calipash, a dark gi'een, almost black. The weight varies 
from about fifty pounds to over five hundred. Full direc- 
tions for killing and dressing green turtle are given in the 
recipe for turtle-soup. 



226 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOh'KRY. 



GREEN TURTLE FRIED. 

Cut thin slices of tender, uncooked turtle- flesii, or of cold 
cooked turtle ; roll them in cracker-crumbs, then dip them 
in beaten egg, and again roll them in crumbs ; have ready 
over the fire a frying-pan containing about half an inch of 
butter melted, and when it begins to smoke put in the 
slices of turtle, and fry them light brown ; when the slices 
are fried, lay them on brown paper in a dripping-pan to 
free them from grease, and keep them hot in the oven until 
the sauce is made as follows : Pour nearly all the butter out 
of the frying-pan ; stir in half a pint of cream, half a pint of 
mild tomato catsup, and enough flour or cracker-crumbs to 
make a sauce of the proper consistency ' let it boil for two 
or three minutes while the fried turtle is being dished with 
a garnish of sliced lemon or fresh water-cresses ; then pour 
the sauce into a bowl, and serve the dish. Any other well- 
seasoned sauce may be used with fried turtle. 

Tender turtle steaks are very good broiled, and served 
with any acid jelly. 

TO PREPARE FROGS' LEGS. 

The hind-legs of large frogs are the only parts used ; the 
bodies are separated in the middle, and the legs are skinned. 
The flesh of the legs is white, very tender, and somewhat 
resembles that of poultry. After the frogs' legs are skinned, 
wash them well in cold water, put them over the fire in 
salted boihng water, and boil them for five minutes ; then 
throw them into cold water to cool. This process is called 
blanching, and must always be done if the flavor is to be 
considered. After the frogs' legs are blanched, they may be 
fried or broiled according to any of the recipes for frying 
or broiling fish, or stewed in a white sauce. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH (FOISSOjV). 22/ 



BOILED LOBSTER. 

Choose a live lobster which seems heavy in proportion to 
its size. Have over the fire a large pot full of boiUng water, 
containing a handful of salt ; plunge the lobster head first 
into the boiling water, which will kill it at once, and boil it 
steadily for twenty minutes, or until the shell turns red. 
Take it up, and as soon as it can be handled break off the 
claws and tail, and carefully remove the soft fins which 
lie close to the body where the legs join it. An ordinary 
iron can-opener is very useful in breaking apart the shell of 
the lobster. After the shell is separated so that the flesh can 
be reached, save all the green fat and coral, and the white 
curd-like substance which lies close to the shell ; remove all 
flesh from the claws and body, and cut it in half-inch pieces ; 
split the shell of the tail, remove and throw away the intes- 
tine which runs through the centre of the tail, and save the 
flesh. The lobster will then be ready to dress in accordance 
with any of the following recipes. 

SCALLOPED LOBSTER. 

Prepare a lobster as directed in the preceding recipe, and 
make a pint of white sauce. Grate a loaf of stale bread. 
Butter a deep earthen dish thickly, and put a half-inch layer 
of crumbs on the bottom and sides ; then fill the dish with 
alternate layers of lobster and bread-crumbs, seasoning each 
layer with salt and pepper. Just before putting on the top 
layer, which should be of bread-crumbs, fill the dish with 
sauce ; then add the bread-crumbs, dust them with salt and 
pepper, and set the dish into a quick oven until the crumbs 
are brown. 

Scalloped lobster may be prepared in small dishes of china, 
or in silver scallop-shells, as shown in the illustration. 



228 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



SCALLOPED LOBSTER IN SHELLS. 

The accompanying engraving shows shells or coquilks of 
fish, cooked in silver or china, and served on a stand. The 
fish may be prepared according to any of the recipes for 
scalloped or devilled fish, and served either hot or cold. 




Scalloped Lobster in Shells. 

Lobster boiled, removed from the shell, and heated in any 
good sauce, makes an excellent e/i/ree, or luncheon dish. 

LOBSTER CHOPS OR CUTLETS. 

Boil a lobster according to the recipe given for that oper- 
ation ; remove the meat, and cut it in small, even dice ; save 
the coral and green fat in opening the lobster; put in a 
thick saucepan over the fire two tablespoonfuls each of 
butter and flour, and stir them until they bubble ; then grad- 
ually stir in half a pint of milk or cream ; add the lobster, 
together with the coral and fat, and a ratlier high seasoning 
of salt and cayenne ; stir the mixture constantly until it is 
very hot ; then take it from the fire, and stir in the yolks of 
two raw eggs, and a glass of sherry or Madeira ; put the 
mixture into a dish to cool. \A'hen it is cold, make it up in 
the form of small chops or cutlets, shaping them with the 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 22() 

hands wet in cold water ; as the chops are made, lay them 
in a platter containing plenty of cracker-dust ; put over the 
fire a frying-kettle half full of fat to heat ; beat two eggs 
smooth ; dip the chops into the egg, and then lay them 
again in the cracker-dust. When the fat begins to smoke, 
put the chops into it, and fry them golden brown ; when the 
chops are brown, take them out of the hot fat with a skim- 
mer, lay them on brown paper for a moment to free them 
from grease, put a small lobster-claw in each one, and then 
serve them garnished with parsley. 

SCALLOPED PRAWNS OR SHRIMP. 

Use either prawns or large shrimp, freed from the shells 
after they are boiled. To a quart of the meat allow a quart 
of dried bread-crumbs, a gill each of vinegar and tomato- 
catsup, and two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter. Put these 
ingredients into an earthen dish in layers, with a palatable 
seasoning of salt and pepper, making the top layer of crumbs, 
and bake the dish in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. 
Serve the scalloped prawns hot, in the same dish in which 
they were baked. Several small dishes, or scallop-shells, may 
be used in place of the large dish. 

SOFT-SHELL CRABS FRIED. 

To prepare soft-shell crabs for cooking, wash them in cold 
water, and lay them on their backs on a meat-board or on 
the kitchen-table. Care should be taken, in buying them, to 
select those which are fat and plump, and quite alive ; and 
they should be carefully handletl to avoid breaking off the 
claws. Use a small, sharp knife in dressing the crabs ; cut 
a half-circle out of the body of each crab, running the knife- 
blade just behind the eyes ; this removes the eyes and sand- 
bag ; then lift the apron or flap, which lies near the back of 
the under shell, and cut off the tuft, or hard fin-like portions 



230 rRACTJCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

attached to it, or remove it entirely ; press the back shell 
away from the body, first on one side and then on the other, 
and take out the tough, fibrous, soft fins ; then dry the crabs 
on a clean towel. 

Have ready a large platter full of fine dry bread-crumbs 
or cracker-dust, mixed with a little pepper and salt, and on 
the stove a frying-kettle or large frying-pan half full of 
smoking-hot fat ; beat two eggs until they are quite liquid ; 
roll the crabs in the crumbs, dip them for an instant in the 
beaten eggs, taking care not to wash off the crumbs, then 
roll them again in the crumbs, and put them into the hot fat 
to fry ; they will be done as soon as they are brown all over. 
Take them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them for a 
moment on brown paper to free them from grease, and serve 
them hot. A lemon, cut in quarters, makes a nice garnish 
for them, the juice being squeezed over the crabs by those 
who like it. Sometimes the juice of a lemon is mixed with 
a tablespoonful of melted butter and a little pepper and salt, 
and poured over the crabs just before sending them to the 
table. 

SOFT-SHELL CRABS BROILED. 

Dress the crabs as directed in the recipe for soft-shell 
crabs fried. After drying them on a towel, dip them' into 
melted butter seasoned with pepper and salt, instead of 
breading them. Put them between the bars of a buttered 
double wire broiler, and broil them until the shells are bright 
red and slightly browned. As soon as they are done, serve 
them hot with melted butter and lemon-juice, or with a 
lemon cut in (juarters. Slices of hot dry toast may be 
served under the broiled crabs. 

CRABS SCALLOPED. 

Boil six ordinary hard crabs until the shells are red, or 
use an equivalent quantity of crab-meat from large crabs. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSOX). 23 I 

about a pint of the meat being required ; after the crabs are 
boiled, remove the meat from the shells carefully, rejecting 
the stomach which lies just back of the eyes, the intestine 
which is coiled up in the middle of the body, and the soft 
fins which lie under the legs, and saving the green fat and 
the curd which lies next the shell. Boil two eggs hard, re- 
move the shells, and chop them fine ; grate the rind and 
strain the juice of a lemon. Put one tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire, and stir them 
until they bubble ; then gradually stir in a pint of milk, and 
let the sauce thus made boil for a moment ; season it with 
a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of 
pepper, and a dust of cayenne ; add the crab-meat, chopped 
eggs, and lemon. Let these ingredients all heat together, 
and then put the mixture into scallop-shells, or a dish which 
can be sent to the table. Dust cracker-crumbs over the 
tops, brown the scalloped crab in a hot oven, and serve it 
at once. 

DEVILLED CRABS. 

Boil the crabs, and remove the meat from the shells as 
directed in the recipe for scalloped crabs ; add to the meat 
an equal quantity of bread or cracker crumbs, half a cupful 
each of Worcestershire sauce and mixed mustard, a level 
teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and half that 
quantity of cayenne, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 
and just enough milk to moisten these ingredients so that 
they can be mixed thoroughly. Fill the crab-shells with this 
mixture, dust them with cracker-crumbs, arrange them in 
a dripping-pan, put a small piece of butter on each, and 
quickly brown them in a very hot oven. Serve them hot or 
cold. The seasoning of devilled crabs should always be 
high. 



23: 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



KROMESKEYS OF CRAB. 

Boil three or four large crabs, and remove the meat from 
the shells as directed for scalloped hard crabs. Make a 
fritter-batter as follows, and put a frying-kettle half full of 
fat over the fire to heat : For the batter, mix together a cup- 
ful of flour, a saltspoonful of salt, a dust of cayenne", the yolk 
of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of salad-oil, and enough cold 
water to form a thick batter. Just before using it, beat the 
white of the egg to a stiff froth, and stir it lightly into the 




Kromcskeys of Crab. 



batter. Cut as many very thin slices of fat salt pork as there 
are to be kromeskeys, and smooth them to the thinness of 
paper, with the back of a knife. Mix with the crab-meat 
a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, add the yolks of 
two raw eggs, and enough wine or sauce of any kind pre- 
ferred to permit the crab-meat to be made up in little rolls, 
with the hands wet in cold water ; ^vrap the rolls in the 
slices of pork, dip them into the batter so that they are 
entirely covered with it, and then fry them golden brown in 
the hot fat ; lay them on brown paper for a moment after 
they are brown to free them from fat, and then arrange them 
on a napkin with parsley, as shown in the picture, and serve 
the kromeskeys hot. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 233 



MUSSELS. 

These cheap and excellent shell-fish are generally pre- 
pared for market by pickling ; but many good dishes can 
be made from them, for several of which recipes are given 
elsewhere. The shells of mussels in good condition are 
dark and bright, and the fish fills them plumply. The edges 
of the shells are sharp and firmly closed. If they are at all 
muddy or sandy, they should be laid for an hour or longer 
in a tub of cold water containing a handful of salt, and then 
thoroughly washed before they are boiled. 

To boil mussels, place them in a large kettle, after they 
are thoroughly washed, with half a pint of water, and set 
them over the fire until the shells open ; the liquor which 
flows from them should be carefully strained, and kept to 
use with them. After the mussels are boiled, take them 
from the shells, carefully remove all the fine filaments at- 
tached to the " tongue "or " foot " of the fish, cut off the 
tip of the " tongue " and the dark, fringe-like edge, or 
beard, which surrounds the gills ; the thread-like filaments 
are called the " moss," and this is supposed to be more 
or less poisonous. The office of the moss, or byssus, is 
to attach the mussel to the rocks or wharves where it is 
found. It should always be carefully removed before the 
mussel is dressed, after it is boiled. Some cooks always 
use a silver spoon in preparing mussels for the table, think- 
ing that it will become blackened if they are unfit for 
food. 

Mussels are sometimes eaten raw like oysters ; but this 
is not advisable, because some medical authorities assert 
that the mussel occasionally contains a poisonous substance 
which is neutralized by cooking, as is the case with some 
varieties of mushrooms. Cases of poisoning by mussels 
yield to intelligent medical treatment. 



234 PRACTICAL AI\TRRICAN COOKERY. 

Mussels are good fried, broiled, or stewed in white sauce ; 
they may be pickled like oysters. 

SCALLOPS FRIED IN INDIAN MEAL. 

Wash the scallops in cold water, and dry them on a clean 
towel. While they are being dried, put over the fire a fry- 
ing-kettle half full of fat, and let it get smoking hot ; then 
quickly roll the scallops in Indian meal seasoned with salt 
and pepper, drop them into the hot fat, and fry them light 
brown ; as soon as they are brown, take them up with a 
skimmer, lay them for a moment on brown paper to free 
them from fat, and then serve them hot. Slices of lemon 
served with the scallops greatly improve the flavor and 
appearance of the dish. If water-cresses are in season, 
they may replace the lemon. Scallops are excellent when 
breaded and fried, or fried with salt pork. 

FRIED SOFT CLAMS. 

Wash a bunch or pint of soft clams in cold water, to free 
them from sand, and lay them separately on a towel to dry. 
Have ready a frying-kettle half full of fat, over the fire, a 
dish of beaten raw eggs, and a platter of cracker-dust or 
bread-crumbs ; roll the clams in the crumbs, then dip them 
in beaten egg, and again roll them in crumbs ; when the 
fat is smoking hot, put the clams into it, and fry them 
golden brown ; then take them out of the frying-kettle with 
a skimmer, lay them on brown paper to free them from fat, 
and serve them hot. 

Fried clams should be served with a garnish of lemon 
cut in quarters, or a dish of sliced cabbage or of pickles. 

SCALLOPED CLAMS. 

Clams may be scalloped in their shells, or in china or 
silver dishes. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 235 



CLAM FRITTERS. 

Carefully wash all sand away from a bunch or pint of 
clams, and chop them fine ; strain the water in which they 
were washed ; have ready, over the fire, a frying-kettle half 
full of fat; mix together a cupful of flour, the chopped 
clams, the yolk of a raw egg, a level teaspoonful of salt, 
and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and enough of the 
water in which the clams were washed to make a thick 
batter ; when the fat is hot, beat the white of one egg to 
a stiff froth, stir it into the fritter-mixture, drop it by the 
tablespoonful into the fat when it is smoking hot, and fry 
the fritters ; when they are brown, take them out of the fat 
with a skimmer, lay them on brown paper for a moment 
to free them from grease, and then serve them hot. 

OYSTER PATTIES. 

To make the patty-cases, first prepare a good puff-paste, 
as directed in the proper recipe ; in cutting it out, use 




Oyster Patties. 



either round or fluted tin pastry-cutters, such as are shown 
in the picture of those implements given elsewhere. If 



236 rRACT/CAI. AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the cases are desired very high, use two layers of paste, 
wetting the top of the lower one, to make the upper one 
adhere to it, and gilding the top of the upper one with 
beaten egg ; make a little circular cut down in the top of 
the patty, about quarter of an inch deep, to form the cover. 
Bake the cases on a baking-sheet, wet with cold water, in 
a moderately hot oven, until they are light brown ; then 
cool them, cut out the cover, and, with a small sharp knife, 
take out the inner heavy portion ; after they are so prepared 
they will be ready to fill, and serve either hot or cold. Fill 
the patties with oysters cooked as directed in the recipe for 
the ragout which is used to fill the vol-au-vent of oysters. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

Oysters prepared according to this recipe can be used hot 
or served cold, with celery and thin water-crackers, or wafer- 
like slices of brown bread buttered. After carefully remov- 
ing all bits of shell from large oysters, lay them on a sieve 
to drain, while preparations are made for frying them. Put 
over the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat to heat ; season 
yellow Indian meal with salt and pepper, and beat three 
eggs until they are quite liquid ; dip the oysters, first in the 
Indian meal, then in the beaten egg, and again in the meal, 
and then drop them into the fat after it begins to smoke, 
and fry them until they are golden brown ; use one hand 
to dip the oysters in the egg, and the other to roll them 
in the meal, and let the egg drain well from each oyster 
before returning it to the meal ; leave the oysters in a dish 
of meal until ready to put them into the frying-kettle ; after 
they are fried light brown, take them out of the fat with a 
skimmer, and lay them on a sieve so that they do not 
touch each other, until they are sen'ed. If they are to be 
served cold, let them become quite dry and cool ; after they 
are cool, they can be kept in a cool dry place, — not in the 



FISH AND SHELLFISH {PO/SSOA'). 237 

refrigerator, — until they are wanted : if they are put in a 
damp place, or where steam can reach them, they will 
become soft and unpalatable. To be acceptable cold, they 
must be slightly crisp, or certainly dry ; a little salt may 
be sprinkled over them when they are dished for the table. 
Salt-pork drippings, or good olive-oil and lard in equal 
proportions, are the best fats for frying the oysters. When 
they are to be kept for several hours, care must be taken 
either to arrange them in single layers or large dishes, or 
to place waxed paper between them when several layers are 
put on one dish. 

Cracker-dust or bread-crumbs may be used instead of 
Indian meal ; or the oysters may simply be rolled in flour 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and then fried in much or 
little fat, only providing it is smoking hot before they are 
put into it. 

ROAST OYSTERS. 

Oysters for roasting should be washed in plenty of cold 
water to free the shells from mud, 'and then placed upon 
a bed of hot coals, with the thick end, where the shells are 
united by a joint, down, so that the liquor may not all 
escape as the oysters open under the effect of the heat ; as 
fast as they open, they should be taken from the fire, and 
sent at once to the table. An easy way to prepare oysters 
is to arrange them in a dripping-pan, and place the pan 
over the coals, or in a very hot oven ; the flavor of the 
oysters so cooked is good, and much of the difficulty of 
handling them is obviated. Still another method is to make 
the deep shells of oysters very hot in a pan in a hot oven, 
then put an oyster in each shell with a very little butter, 
and replace the pan in the oven for one minute ; this will 
curl the edges of the oysters, and they can then be trans- 
ferred, in the shells, to a platter, and sent to the table. A 
pair of oyster-tongs is needed to handle the hot oyster-shells 



238 rRACT/CAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

when the fish are roasted on the coals : in following the 
other methods, the hands should be protected from burning 
by a thick dry towel. 

STEWED OYSTERS. 

After all bits of shell are removed from the oysters, and 
their liquor has been strained to free it from shell and 
sand, put the liquor over the fire with a tablespoonful of 
butter to the liquor from a quart of oysters, and let it boil ; 
remove all scum as it rises ; add pepper palatably, and very 
httle salt ; milk may be used if it is desired, in equal 
quantity with the oyster-liquor ; after the broth thus made 
is freed from scum, and seasoned, put in the oysters ; watch 
them, and the moment their edges curl, remove them from 
the fire, and serve them at once. 

Stewed oysters are sometimes thickened by the addition 
of a little cracker-dust, and they may be varied by using 
milk instead of part of the oyster-liquor. 

PICKLED OYSTERS. 

Oysters for pickling must be of medium size, carefully 
opened without tearing them, and freed from all bits of 
shell ; their liquor should be strained through a cloth fine 
enough to retain any sand it may contain, and then placed 
over the fire with the oysters, and allowed to cook for three 
minutes after the oyster-liquor begins to steam ; the oysters 
should be skimmed out of the broth, and laid on a sieve to 
drain ; the liquor should be allowed to stand long enough 
to deposit its sediment, then the clear part poured off and 
again placed over the fire in a saucepan, with an equal 
quantity of good vinegar ; to each quart of the mixed oyster- 
broth and vinegar, allow the yellow rind of half a lemon, 
two small blades of mace, an inch of stick-cinnamon, and 
a level teaspoonful of peppercorns or a very small red 



FISH AXD SHELLFISH {POfSSON). 239 

pepper ; let the pickle boil for about five minutes, removing 
all scum as it rises, and then cool it ; put the oysters into 
glass jars, cover them with the pickle, and close the jars to 
exclude the air. The entire contents of each jar should be 
used the day it is opened, as the oysters spoil quickly when 
they are exposed to the air. Pickled oysters will keep two 
or three weeks if the jars are properly sealed ; they are best 
if used soon after they are prepared ; in that case they re- 
quire only to be scalded in the boiling broth, and they are 
much plumper and more tender than when they are allowed 
to boil, as they must do to insure perfect preservation for 
any length of time. 

VOL-AU-VENT OF OYSTERS. 

To make the case for a vol-aii-vent, follow the directions 
given in the recipe for puff-paste until the paste is ready to 
cut out ; then use either a pastry-cutter of the proper shape 
and size, or a sharp knife. Cut out the case either with 





Uncooked Vol-au-uent Case. 

smooth or scalloped edges. The accompanying engraving 
of the uncooked vol-au-vent shows the scalloped edges ; the 
cooked vol-au-vent is made with the smooth outline. After 
the pastry is cut out, two or more pieces are to be laid 
together, according to the height desired in the vol-au-vent 
after it is baked. If the pastry is properly made, and rolled 



240 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



about half an inch thick, two layers will make the case about 
four inches high after it is baked. Wet the layers with cold 
water, to make them adhere ; with a sharp knife cut into the 
top layer about half an inch, following the lines shown upon 
the top of the uncooked vol-au-vent. These cuts will form 
the cover shown in the cooked vol-au-vent. Brush the sur- 
face with beaten egg, and bake the case in a moderate oven 
until it is nicely browned ; then cool it, and fill it as directed 
in the next recipe. 

RAGOUT OF OYSTERS FOR VOL-AU-VENT. 

Carefully remove all particles of shell from a quart of 
large oysters, and strain their liquor to free it from sand and 




Cooked Vol-au-uent Case. 



shell ; put into a thick saucepan two tablespoonfuls each of 
flour and butter, and stir them over the fire until they begin 
to bubble ; then gradually stir in enough of the oyster-liquor 
to make a sauce thick enough to coat the spoon, or as thick 
as thick cream. If there is not enough oyster-liquor, use 
some cream or milk to make up the required quantity ; sea- 



FISri AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 24 1 

son the sauce palatably with salt, pepper, and a very little 
grated nutmeg,, and let it boil once ; then put in the oysters, 
and stir them in the sauce until their edges curl. The 
ragout may be used in that condition, or the yolks of two 
raw eggs may be stirred into it after it is taken from the fire, 
and three tablespoonfuls of oil and one of lemon-juice added, 
a itw drops at a time. While the oysters are being cooked, 
the vol-au-vent case may be heated in the oven, if it is 
wanted hot. To prepare it for the ragout, use a sharp knife 
to cut around and lift up the cover; take out from the 
middle of the case all the soft, heavy part of the pastry, and 
then fill it with the ragout; as soon as the case is filled, lay 
the cover over it, and serve it at once. If the ragout stand 
in the case, the latter becomes saturated, and loses its fresh, 
crisp character. When the vol-au-vent is to be served cold, 
let \k\& ragout coq\ before putting it into the case. 



CHAPTER IV. 

RELISHES (ffors-d'a-uvres). 

THE innumerable small appetizers kno\vn as relishes, or 
hors-d^oiuvres, include all forms of pickles and table- 
sauces, small sandwiches, and crusts garnished with highly 
seasoned meats, various preparations of cheese, and eggs ; 
in short, any small, highly spiced or seasoned dish calculated 
to rouse or stimulate the appetite. 




Relishes : Bouchees and Rissoles- 



TIMBALES, PATTIES, BOUCHEES, RISSOLES, AND 
COCKSCOMBS. 

Of the different forms of puff-paste shown in the above 
engraving, the largest ones are timbales, or small deep patties ; 
the second largest are patties ; the third in size are bouchees, 
242 



RF.LrsHF.s {HORS-ircECVRr.s). 243 

or small patties ; the smallest are rissoles, or little turnovers ; 
the dark figures at one side of the picture represent cocks- 
combs, which are included in some of the more elaborate 
ragoiits, for which recipes are given elsewhere. Rissoles are 
baked and fried ; timhales are baked in deep, smooth moulds, 
the bottom and sides of the mould being lined with plain 
paste, and the top being made of puff-paste. All these forms 
of pastry are made both in sweets and with delicate force- 
meats and ragouts. They are served among the hot entrees 
when filled with forcemeats or ragouts. 

TONGUE TOAST. 

Make several slices of toast, and lay them on a platter ; 
chop very fine or grate some bits of cold tongue, allowing 
two heaping tablespoonfuls for each slice of toast. Put the 
tongue into a saucepan. To each pint of tongue add a half- 
cupful of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, and a palatable 
seasoning of salt and pepper. Stir the tongue over the fire 
until it is hot, then pour it on the toast, and serve it at once. 

HAM TOAST. 

Chop very fine half a pound of cold boiled or roasted 
ham, mix with it the yolk of a raw egg and enough cream or 
cream-sauce to moisten it a little, and season it highly with 
salt and cayenne. Toast as many small slices of bread as 
are required to hold the ham ; arrange them in a dripping- 
pan ; put a little mound of ham on each slice, and quickly 
brown the surface in a \-ery hot oven, or before an open fire. 
Serve the ham toast either hot or cold. 

CAVIARE TOAST. 

Use the best Russian caviare, if it is obtainable ; an Ameri- 
can or German caviare is sometimes good, and less expensive 
than the Russian. The best caviare, when freshly made. 



244 PR ACT re A r. American cookery. 

somewhat resembles oysters in taste ; but the flavor of other 
sorts is indescribable. A mock-caviare can be made by 
boning half a dozen anchovies, and pounding them to a 
paste with a clove of garlic. Caviare is served with lemon- 
juice ; or with salt, pepper, vinegar, and a little oil, mixed 
like a salad-dressing. After it is seasoned it is spread lightly 
upon delicate slices of toast ; or it may be eaten with brown 
bread cut thin and buttered very slightly. At dinners caviare 
is placed upon the table with the relishes, or served after the 
oysters and soup. 

SMOKED FISH FOR RELISHES. 

Small strips of cured fish, either salted or smoked, are 
acceptable as a relish ; or small fish which have been pre- 
served in oil, such as anchovies or sardines, may be wiped 
dry with a towel, and served with vinegar or lemon-juice. 
Smoked eels, herring, halibut, sturgeon, tunny- fish, salt cod- 
fisli, salmon, Finnan haddie, Yarmouth bloaters, or any dried 
fish may be served in this course ; only it mujjt be delicately 
prepared, in small pieces, and with some suitable garnish, so 
as to be an appreciable incentive to the enjoyment of the 
heavier dishes which succeed it. Sliced lemon is always a 
good garnish for any highly seasoned relish. 

SANDWICH BUTTER. 

Mix together equal parts of good butter and grated ham 
or tongue ; season rather highly with salt, cayenne., and 
mustard mixed with vinegar. Pack the mixture into little 
earthen jars ; cover each jar with a piece of paper dipped 
in brandy, and then exclude the air by a tight cover, or a 
bladder wet and then tied over the top. 

This butter may be made by the quantity, and kept in a 
cool, dry place. Its flavor may be changed by varying the 
ingredients and seasoning. 



RELISHES i^IIOKS-D'CEUVRES). 245 



SANDWICHES. 

Very acceptable sandwiches can be made with the potted 
and devilled meats and game now sold in jars and tins. The 
bread should be quite free from crust, cut in thin small slices, 
and thinly spread with the best butter ; a very thin layer 
of highly seasoned meat, game, or poultry, or some kind of 
spiced or salted fish, is put between two slices of buttered 
bread ; the irregular edges are trimmed off, and the sand- 
wiches kept cool until wanted for use. Any meat or fish 
intended for sandwiches should be chopped or grated before 
using it, and rather highly seasoned. Sardines make very 
good sandwiches. 

CANAPEES. 

Canapees are small slices of bread slightly hollowed out 
on the upper surface, and then fried golden brown in plenty 
of smoking-hot fat. The little hollow is filled with any 
highly seasoned meat, and the canapees served either hot 
or cold. 

BOUCHEES. 

Bouchees are very small shells of puff-paste, filled with 
any highly seasoned mince or ragout. They are served 
both hot and cold. 

RISSOLES. 

Rissoles are little turnovers of puff-paste, filled with highly 
seasoned mince, and fried like croquettes. 

SPICED VEAL. 

Cut cold lean veal, either baked or fried, into pieces an 
inch square. Measure sufficient vinegar to cover it ; heat 
the vinegar scalding hot, adding to each pint one dozen 
whole cloves, half an inch of stick-cinnamon, a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a small red pepper or a dozen peppercorns ; 
when the vinegar is scalding hot, pour it and the spices over 



246 PR AC TIC AT. A.VERICAX COOKllRY. 

the veal, and let the veal stand in this pickle for at least 
twenty-four hours ; it may tlien be used cold for luncheon 
or supper. 

VEAL LOAF. 

Chop four pounds of raw veal quite fine ; mix with it half 
a pound of crackers rolled to large crumbs, three raw eggs, 
two teaspoonfuls of salt, two saltspoonfuls of pepper, and a 
quarter of a saltspoonful of powdered allspice ; if the veal 
is perfectly lean, add a tablespoonful of butter; put this 
mixture into a smooth tin mould or pan just large enough 
to contain it. Set it in a moderate oven, and bake it for 
two hours. After the veal loaf is cooked, let it cool in the 
pan, and then turn it out. It is to be sliced, and served 
cold for luncheon or supper. 

JELLIED CHICKEN. 

Have a large chicken or fowl plucked, singed, wiped with 
a wet towel, and drawn without breaking the intestines ; cut 
off the head and feet, and divide it in four or five pieces, 
so that it can be packed closely in a saucepan ; cover it 
with hot water, add a teaspoonful of salt and a level salt- 
spoonful of pepper, cover the saucepan closely, and boil the 
chicken until the bones can be taken out, always taking care 
that there is broth enough to prevent burning. After the 
bones have been removed from the chicken, put it into a 
tin or earthen mould, or an ordinary dish of suitable size, 
from which it can be turned when cold ; strain the broth, 
return it to the saucepan, place it over the fire, and dissolve 
gelatine in it ; allow half a small box of gelatine to a quart 
of broth ; soften the gelatine in enough cold water to cover 
it, while the chicken is being boiled, and then by stirring it 
with the hot broth for a few moments it will entirely dis- 
solve ; season the broth palatably with salt and a very little 
cayenne, and pour it over the chicken in the mould ; as soon 



RELISHES {l/ORS-D'CEUVRES). 247 

as the chicken is ([uite cold, it can be turned out of the 
mould and sliced as desired. Any acid jelly, or spicy pickle, 
makes a good garnish for jellied chicken. Jellied cran- 
berries are excellent with the chicken. 

PICKLED CHICKEN. 

Pluck and singe a chicken, wipe it with a wet towel, draw 
it without breaking the intestines, cut it in joints, and boil 
it until quite tender in just enough water to cover it, with 
a level tablespoonful of salt, two blades of mace, and a tea- 
spoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns. When the 
chicken is tender, remove all the bones, and put the meat 
loosely in a jar. To enough of the broth to half fill the jar, 
add an equal quantity of vinegar and all the spice ; let this 
pickle get scalding hot, and then pour it over the chicken. 
When the pickle is cold, cover the jar. The chicken will be 
fit to use after six hours. 

PEANUTS ROASTED WITH SALT. 

This side of Mason and Dixon's line, these favorite nuts 
are not half well estimated. That a whole dinner — and not 
a bad one — can be made of them, may not have occurred 
to the reader who is unfamiliar with the author's peanut 
menu. 

The trial is suggested, of carefully .removing the shells and 
skins, and roasting the nuts like the almonds described in 
the next recipe. If wine is used with them, it should be 
sherry or Madeira ; or the salted nuts may be eaten with 
celery, or plain lettuce salad, or with cheese and crackers. 

SALTED ALMONDS. 

After shelling almonds, pour boiling water upon them, and 
let them remain in it until the skins begin to loosen, which 
will be soon. Rub the almonds in a clean towel, to remove 



248 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the skins ; put the blanched almonds into a pan, with 
enough butter to prevent burning (very little will suffice), and 
put the pan into a quick oven. Watch the almonds, and 
shake the pan frequently, so that they may brown equally. 
When they are delicately and evenly colored, take them up, 
let them cool, and theo dust a litde salt over them, and use 
them as a relish at luncheon or dinner, or serve them as a 
course with some fine sherry or Madeira. 

WALNUTS AND WINE. 

Where nuts and wine are served as a course, the nuts 
should be fine English walnuts, carefiilly peeled, and old 
Madeira should accompany them if possible ; that is, this 
combination is absolutely acceptable. Salt should be on the 
table for the nuts, or, after they are taken from the shells, 
they can be dipped in the glass of wine before they are 
eaten. Other combinations are : filberts and sherry or Ma- 
deira ; salted almonds and sherry ; salted chestnuts — the 
large French or Italian nuts, either boiled or baked, and 
peeled — and a good Chianti or a claret ; or Girard boiled 
chestnuts with an Italian wine, Baroli ; or hickory-nuts and 
sherry ; or a variety of nuts, with olives and sherry ; or 
paper-shell almonds and sherry. A favorite American com- 
bination is nuts, raisins, apples, and cider : this belongs 
with the old-fashioned American Thanksgiving or Christmas 
dinner of roast turkey, chicken-pie, sweet-potatoes, steamed 
squash, oyster or chicken salad, celery, cranberry -jelly, 
squash, pumpkin, and mince pies, and plum-pudding. A 
good after-dinner '• bite " is the Girard nut sandwich. Fil- 
berts might be used for this saildwich. English filberts 
should be kept in their husks, damp, or packed in salt, so 
that the kernels will be soft. If the husks look mouldy, put 
the nuts in a colander, and shake them over the fumes of a 
little burning sulphur before sending them to the table. 



RELISHES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 249 



GIRARD BOILED CHESTNUTS. 

A most delicious hot relish is made of boiled Italian 
chestnuts, served with fresh butter. After washing the chest- 
nuts, cut through the stem end of the shells with two cuts, 
crossing each other, so that the shells can be easily stripped 
off; tie the nuts in a napkin, and boil them just tender in 
salted boiling water ; then take them up, turn them into a 
fresh napkin laid in a salad-bowl, and serve the nuts hot, 
with fresh butter and salt. If served at dinner, a good Bor- 
deaux wine should accompany them, or Baroli. 

THE GIRARD NUT SANDWICH. 

Use very thin home-made bread, cut free from crust, and 
lightly buttered. Upon each slice lay the thinnest possible 
slice of Gruyere cheese ; then peel as many fresh walnuts 
as will cover a slice, lay them upon the cheese, and sprinkle 
a very little salt over the nuts ; lay another thin shaving 
of cheese on the nuts, and more very thin buttered bread ; 
press the slices of bread close together, to hold the nuts in 
place, and serve the sandwiches with a fine sherry. This 
may make an after-dinner relish, or be served with the green 
salad, dressed with plain French salad-dressing, as a course. 

WELSH RAREBIT. 

The ordinary American factory cheese is excellent for 
rarebits, because it grates easily, melts quickly, and blends 
smoothly with the other ingredients. To make a rarebit, 
mix the following ingredients in a saucepan, and then stir 
them over the fire until they are smoothly melted together ; 
meantime prepare two slices of toast, and lay them on a hot 
dish. Wlien the rarebit is quite smooth, pour it on the toast, 
and serve it at once. The proper ingredients for a rarebit 
are : quarter of a pound of cheese grated, two ounces of 



250 PRACTICAL AMERICAN- COOKERY. 

butter, two tablcspoonfuls of ale, a saltspoonful each of salt 
and dry mustard, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
a dust of cayenne. 

A very good rarebit is made by substituting for the ale 
the yolks of two raw eggs, beaten in half a cupful of milk. 
This rarebit is mixed and cooked like the first, and is very 
tender and delicate. 

GOLDEN BUCK. 

A golden buck is a Welsh rarebit with a poached egg laid 
on it. 

YORKSHIRE RAREBIT. 

A Yorkshire rarebit is a golden buck with a slice of fried 
or broiled bacon laid upon the poached egg. 

All the rarebits may be made at the table in a chafing-dish, 
if the cheese is grated and the toast prepared in the kitchen. 
The more quickly they are eaten after they are cooked, the 
better they are. 

CHEESE STRAWS AND CRUSTS. 

Cheese crusts and cheese straws make an acceptable 
accompaniment for any green salad, or for celery. To pre- 
pare cheese straws, sift six ounces of flour on the pastry- 
board, make a hole in the centre, into which put the yolk 
of a raw egg or two tablcspoonfuls of cream, three heaping 
tablcspoonfuls of any dry rich cheese, grated, an equal 
quantity of butter, half a level teaspoonful of salt, quarter 
of a saltspoonful of white pepper, a dust of cayenne, and 
a very little grated nutmeg. Mix these ingredients with 
the tips of the fingers to a smooth paste, which can be 
rolled out an eighth of an inch thick. If the cream and 
butter do not furnish moisture enough to form the paste, 
add a very little cold milk or water. Wlien the paste is 
rolled out, cut it in small strips about six inches long, with 
a sharp knife or with the pastry-wheel ; lay the strips or 



RELISHES {?IORS-D'(EUVRES). 25 I 

Straws on a buttered baking-pan, in straight rows, a little 
apart, and set the pan in a moderate oven ; the straws will 
cook within a few minutes, and must be watched carefully, 
because, if they are allowed to brown, their flavor will be 
spoiled ; they need to bake only long enough to slightly 
harden them, but not to become at all brown. When they 
are done, let them cool on the pan, and then transfer them 
to the dish on which they are to be served, taking care to 
lift them by slipping under them the flexible blade of a long, 
thin knife, for they are very brittle. 

Cheese crusts are small slices of bread covered with grated 
cheese, seasoned with salt and pepper, and browned in a hot 
oven. 

CHEESE PUFFS. 

Grate half a pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a 
dozen small paper cases, or little boxes of stiff" writing-paper, 
like those shown farther on in the picture of souffle cases. 
Put over the fire a thick saucepan containing a gill of water ; 
add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and, when the water boils, 
stir in one heaping tablespoonful of flour, and beat the mix- 
ture until it cleaves away from the sides of the saucepan ; 
then stir in the grated cheese ; remove the paste thus made 
from the fire, and let it partly cool ; meantime separate the 
yolks from the whites of three eggs, and beat them until 
the yolks foam and the whites make a stiff" froth ; then first 
stir the yolks with the paste, and next lightly mix in the 
whites ; put the mixture at once into the buttered paper 
cases, filling them only half full, as they rise very high while 
being baked ; and bake them in a moderate oven for about 
fifteen minutes : as soon as the puffs are done, put the cases 
on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve them 
very hot. Served with celery they will make a course at a 
regular dinner, after the game ; or they may replace a sweet 
dessert at a plain dinner. 



252 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOK'ERY. 



POTTED CHEESE. 

Grate two pounds of old cheese : pound it in a mortar 
to a smooth paste with a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
saltspoonful of powdered mace, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a glass of sherry ; pack the cheese in earthen jars, cover it 
with clarified butter, — which" is butter melted at a gentle 
heat, and poured carefully away from the sediment, — and 
keep it in a cool place. 

EASTER EGGS. 

Easter morning would be incomplete, for the children at 
least, without the brightly colored eggs typical of the day. 
There are many ways of coloring the eggs, the easiest being 
the boiling of them with various colored dyes sold in small 
packages at the chemists'. An old-fashioned method was 
to tie each egg in a piece of figured chintz or calico, which 
would leave its imprint on the egg after it was exposed to 
the action of boiling water. Another good way to produce 
a variegated reddish-purple color was to boil with the eggs 
the skins of red onions. To color the eggs with original 
designs, a provincial method was to trace figures upon the 
shells of raw eggs with a bit of hard tallow candle, thus 
covering the part of the shell which was desired white, and 
then to put the eggs in boiling dye-water. Sometimes the 
eggs are entirely dyed, and then designs are engraved upon 
them with a sharp knife or a strong trussing or darning 
needle. ^Vhen the prepared dye-stuffs are not available, 
varied colors may be produced by using the following- 
named chemicals, boiling a small quantity with the eggs : 
Red, Brazil wood ; yellow, Persian berries, or a very little 
tumeric ; brown, a strong dye of tumeric ; claret color, log- 
wood ; black, logwood and chromate of potash ; blue, a 
mixture of powdered indigo, crystals of sulphate of iron. 



RELISHES {IIORS-D'CEUVRES). 253 

and a little dry slacked lime. The eggs should always be 
boiled for ten minutes at least. 

HARD-BOILED EGGS. 

Put half a dozen eggs over the fire in. cold water, let the 
water heat, and boil the eggs for ten minutes after the water 
begins to boil ; then put them for a moment into a bowl of 
cold water so that they can be handled ; break the shell in 
every direction by tapping the eggs upon the table, and 
then peel it off. 

TURKEY, GEESE, AND DUCK EGGS. 

Put the eggs into a bowl filled with boiling water for five 
minutes, keeping the bowl covered tight and in a hot place ; 
then pour off the first water, replace it with more boiling 
water, and let them stand for five minutes longer ; serve 
them like ordinary boiled eggs ; or, actually boil the eggs 
for five minutes : either of these methods will cook the eggs 
medium hard. From ten to fifteen minutes boiling will 
cook the eggs hard, according to their size. Duck eggs 
will cook in less time than turkey or goose eggs. 

STEAMED EGGS. 

Break in separate cups as many eggs as are required to 
cover the bottom of a shallow dish the size of the steamer. 
Butter the dish, slip the eggs on it ; put a small bit of butter 
and a little salt and pepper on each, and set the dish in the 
steamer for three minutes or longer, until the eggs are cooked 
to the required degree. A colander set over a kettle of 
boiling water will serve for steaming the eggs if it can be 
closely covered. 

BROILED EGGS. 

Make as many small slices of toast as there are eggs, lay 
them on a platter, butter them, and on each one put an 



254 rRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

egg, first broken into a cup ; set the dish before the fire 
where the heat will strike the eggs, and let them cook to 
the required degree ; when the eggs are done, squeeze over 
them the juice of a sour orange, season them lightly with 
salt and cayenne, and serve them hot. 

SHIRRED EGGS. 

This form of cooking eggs is a modification of baking 
them. Small earthen dishes are used, each one holding an 
egg ; the dishes are buttered, an egg put into each one 
without mixing the white and yolk, and a little salt and 
pepper dusted over the eggs ; the dishes are then placed 
upon the back of the stove, or in a moderate oven, until 
the whites of the eggs are set ; the dishes are then sent to 
the table, and the eggs eaten from them. \\'hen the eggs 
are cooked in the oven, they should be covered with a 
buttered paper to prevent the browning of the surface. 

POACHED EGGS WITH HAM. 

Have ready about a quarter of a pound of cold boiled 
ham, in one piece, trimmed free from fat ; make a dish of 
very delicate buttered toast ; break half a dozen eggs into 
separate cups, without breaking the yolks ; put over the 
fire a frying-pan half full of boiling salted water, add half a 
cupfiil of vinegar to it, slip the eggs gently into it without 
breaking them, and cook them to the required degree ; 
while the eggs are being cooked, grate the ham ; when the 
eggs are done, take them up on a skimmer, slip each one 
on a slice of toast, lay a tablespoonful of grated ham on 
each egg, and serve them at once. 

Plain poached eggs are served on toast without the addi- 
tion of the grated ham. 

Eggs poached in gravy are very good. 



RELISHES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 255 



FRIZZLED BEEF AND EGGS. 

Put a quarter of a pound of sliced dried beef in a frying- 
pan over the fire, with milk or water enough to cover it, 
and let it cook slowly for five minutes ; then pour off the 
liquid, and add in its place a tablespoonful of butter and six 
raw eggs ; stir the beef and eggs together over the fire, 
season them palatably with salt and pepper, and serve them 
as soon as they are cooked to the desired degree. 

FRIED EGGS. 

Usually ham is fried as an accompaniment for eggs, the 
eggs being cooked in the pan after the ham is done ; but 
eggs can be fried in drippings, lard, or butter. Have ready 
in the frying-pan enough fat to half cover the eggs ; break 
the eggs in separate cups or saucers, and slip them into the 
hot fat; if the eggs are to be cooked hard, either dip 
the hot fat up over them with a spoon, or turn them entirely 
over in it without breaking the yolks ; when the eggs are 
cooked to the desired degree, dust over them a little pepper 
and salt, and serve them. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

This is a favorite dish for luncheons or breakfasts. The 
eggs are broken into a frying-pan containing about a tea- 
spoonful of butter for each egg, and a palatable seasoning 
of salt and pepper ; the eggs are then stirred over the fire 
until they are done to the desired degree, and then served 
hot. The eggs may be scrambled at the table, in a chafing- 
dish. 

OMELETS. 

There is an infinite variety of omelets, named from the 
special flavor or seasoning given by any predominating 
ingredient. The sweet light omelets are used either for 



256 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

breakfast or plain desserts ; the plain omelets are suitable 
for breakfast and luncheon. In the parsley and fines herbes 
omelets, the chopped herbs are mixed with the eggs before 
the omelet is cooked ; grated ham, tongue, and cheese 
are also mixed in the same way. Separate recipes are 
given for other omelets, where the special ingredient used 
is enclosed in the omelet. 

SARDINE OMELET. 

Have ready over the fire a frying-pan containing two 
tablespoonfuls of olive-oil ; remove the skin and bones from 
two sardines, and cut them in half-inch lengths ; beat three 
eggs with half a saltspoonful of salt and a slight dust of 
cayenne-pepper for a minute ; have ready half a teaspoon- 
ful of lemon-juice or vinegar ; when the oil is hot, pour the 
eggs into the pan, place it over the fire, and, with a fork, 
slightly break the omelet on the bottom, as it cooks, so 
that the uncooked portion can run upon the pan ; do not 
tear the edges of the omelet. When the omelet is cooked 
to the required degree (and it should not be too well done), 
lay the sardines on one side of it, pour the lemon-juice or 
vinegar over them, fold the omelet together, enclosing 
them, and then turn it out on a hot dish, and serve it at 
once. All omelets should be ser\'ed the moment they 
are done, as they harden by standing; and they should 
never be overdone, 

OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS. 

Use either fresh or canned mushrooms ; heat a table- 
spoonful of chopped canned mushrooms, in enough white 
sauce to moisten them ; or clean three fresh mushrooms, of 
medium size, and fry them in just enough butter to pre- 
vent burning, seasoning them palatably with salt and pepper. 
While the mushrooms are being heated, beat for half a 
minute three whole eggs, a level saltspoonful of salt, and 



RELISHES {HORS-D'OEUVRES). 2$y 

very little pepper ; put a smooth frying-pan over the fire, 
with a teaspoonful of butter ; when the butter begins to 
brown, pour in the beaten egg ; as soon as the egg sets upon 
the bottom of the pan, break it a little with a fork occasion- 
ally, and allow the uncooked portion of the egg to reach 
the pan ; do not break the outer edge of the omelet, and 
do not stir it all together like scrambled eggs. When the 
omelet is cooked to the desired degree, put the mush- 
rooms in the middle, fold the omelet together by lifting 
one half on a broad, flexible knife, and laying it over the 
other ; then loosen it entirely from the pan, turn it out 
without breaking it, and serve it at once. 

RICE OMELET. 

Melt a tablespoonful of butter, add it to a cupful each of 
milk and cold boiled rice, a level teaspoonful of salt, and 
three well-beaten eggs ; put a tablespoonful of butter in a 
hot frying-pan, and melt it ; when the butter is melted, pour 
into the pan the ingredients already mixed, set the pan in 
a hot oven, and quickly bake the omelet. As soon as it is 
cooked, fold it double, turn it out on a hot dish, and serve 
it at once. 

OMELET WITH JELLY. 

Put a frying-pan over the fire to heat, with a teaspoonful 
of butter ; beat separately the yolks of three eggs with a 
teaspoonful of sugar, and the whites to a stiff froth ; when 
the butter is melted, mix the whites and yolks gendy to- 
gether, and put them into the hot pan ; as fast as the 
omelet cooks, lift the cooked portion from the pan with 
a fork, and throw it upon one side of the pan, letting the 
uncooked part down upon the hot pan. When the omelet 
is cooked to the desired degree, put a tablespoonful of jelly 
in the middle, fold the omelet together, and turn it out 
on a hot dish ; dust it with powdered sugar, and serve it. 



258 PKACJICAL AMEkJCAX COOKERY. 



PINEAPPLE OMELET. 

Have ready a tablespoonful of fresh grated pineapple, or 
of pineapple-preserve ; mix together three eggs, a teaspoon- 
ful of lemon-juice, and a tablespoonful of sugar ; put the 
omelet into a hot buttered pan, and cook it as directed 
in the recipe for sardine omelet, until it is ready to fold ; 
then put in the pineapple, fold the omelet together, and 
turn it out on a hot dish ; dust it with powdered sugar, and 
serve it at once. 

TOMATO CATSUP. 

Scald and peel a peck of tomatoes and two onions ; boil 
them with a pint of vinegar in the preserving-kettle, until 
they are tender enough to rub through a sieve with a potato- 
masher ; then add to them a cupful of salt, half a cupful 
of mustard mixed with the same quantity of vinegar, two 
tablespoonfuls each of powdered cloves, mace, allspice, and 
black pepper, and one level teaspoonful of cayenne-pepper. 
Boil all these ingredients together again for an hour, and 
then bottle the hot catsup in bottles heated in hot water ; 
cork and seal the bottles while hot. 

SEALING- WAX FOR PICKLE JARS. 

Put tliree ounces of yellow beeswax into a small tin pail 
with six ounces of powdered rosin ; set the pail in a pan of 
hot water, and stir the wax and rosin until they are melted 
and smoothly blended. While the wax is still liquid from 
the action of heat, apply it to the jars or bottles containing 
pickles or preserves, after they are corked. 

CUCUMBER CATSUP. 

Peel and chop very fine twelve large cucumbers, an equal 
measure of Spanish onions, four large green peppers without 



RELISHES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 259 

the seeds, one small bulb of garlic, and four shallots ; grate 
one medium-sized root of horseradish ; put all these ingredi- 
ents in a porcelain-lined kettle over the fire, add enough 
cold vinegar to cover them, together with half a cupful of 
salt, and a tablespoonful each of ground cloves, allspice, 
mace, and cinnamon, and red pepper to taste. Boil the 
catsup gently until it is of the proper consistency, and then 
cool and bottle it. 

OYSTER CATSUP. 

Remove all pieces of shell from a hundred large, fresh 
oysters ; put them into a mortar with four tablespoonfuls of 
salt, one ounce of powdered mace, and one saltspoonful of 
cayenne-pepper, and pound them to a smooth paste ; put 
this paste over the fire with an equal quantity by measure 
of white wine ; let it heat slowly, and then boil for five 
minutes ; then rub the catsup through a fine sieve, boil it 
again for five minutes, skimming it quite clear ; cool the 
catsup after the second boiling, add to it a glass of brandy, 
and bottle, cork, and s6al it. It is used as a table-sauce, 
and for flavoring soups, sauces, and gravies. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Peel and slice four quarts of fresh tomatoes, or use the 
canned vegetables. Chop one pint of fresh red peppers, or 
one-third that quantity of dried ones ; peel and chop half 
a pint of onions ; put these ingredients into a saucepan with 
half a pound of brown sugar, a pint and a half of vinegar, 
a quarter of an ounce each of ground cloves and cinnamon, 
an eighth of an ounce each of ground ginger and mace, and 
two ounces of salt ; boil all these ingredients together gently 
for three hours, stirring them frequently to prevent burning, 
and then cool the sauce, and seal it up in wide-mouthed 
glass bottles. 



26o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



CHOW-CHOW. 

Remove the defective and green outer leaves of firm 
white cabbages, and shave enough to fill a four-quart meas- 
ure ; measure an equal quantity each of green tomatoes, 
small green cucumbers, and green peppers, and slice them 
thin, after wiping them with a wet cloth ; put them into 
earthen or wooden vessels, sprinkling a pint of salt among 
them ; let them stand over night ; drain them the next day, 
put them into a preserving-kettle with a pint of small red 
peppers and the following spices : one ounce each of whole 
mace, peppercorns, mustard-seed, and powdered tumeric ; 
half an ounce each of whole cloves, celery-seed, and grated 
horseradish ; and sufficient vinegar to cover them ; boil them 
gently for half an hour, and then cool them, and put them up 
in eaVthen or glass jars with close covers. 

PICKLED CABBAGE. 

Remove the outer leaves and the tough parts of the stalks 
from four large heads of firm white cabbage ; shave it, and 
put it into an earthen jar or a wooden tub, sprinkling about 
half a pint of salt through it, and let it stand over night ; the 
next day draw off the brine, put the cabbage over the fire, 
with four onions peeled and chopped, four ounces of mus- 
tard-seed, two ounces each of ground mustard, celery-seed, 
and tumeric, one ounce each of whole mace, cloves, allspice, 
and pepper, two pounds of brown sugar, and enough vinegar 
to cover the cabbage ; boil all these ingredients together 
until the stalks of the cabbage are tender; then cool the 
pickle, and put it up in air-tight jars. 

PICKLED TOMATOES. 

Use small yellow tomatoes, button onions, and very small 
dwarf red peppers ; half a cupful of red peppers to three 



RELISHES {irORS-D'CEUVRES). 261 

quarts of tomatoes and one quart of onions ; prick the 
tomatoes with a needle, put them into enough cold brine 
to cover them (the brine being made by dissolving as much 
salt in cold water as the water will receive), and let them 
stand for a week. On the fifth day peel the onions, taking 
care not to cut them too closely at the root and top, and 
let them stand two days in the same kind of brine. At the 
end of a week drain the tomatoes and onions, wipe them on 
a clean cloth, and put.them into quart glass or earthen jars 
with the peppers ; fill one jar with cold vinegar, and pour 
it out again, in order to ascertain the quantity required \ 
use four times that quantity ; with the vinegar put a cupful 
of brown sugar, a tablespoon ful each of whole allspice, 
cloves, and cinnamon, and heat it over the fire until it is 
scalding hot ; then cool it, and pour it into the jars, dividing 
the spice among them ; seal the jars, and keep them in a 
cool, dark place. Small red tomatoes, or green ones, can 
be put up in the same way ; unless the green ones are very 
small, they should be quartered or sliced. 

RIPE TOMATO PICKLES. 

Choose firm, small, round, ripe tomatoes ; wash them, 
prick them with a large needle, and let them stand for a 
week in cold water containing as much salt as it will dis- 
solve. Then wash them in cold water, and drain them over 
night. Put them into an earthen jar, sprinkling among them 
half a cupful of mustard-seed, and two red-pepper pods 
chopped, for each gallon of tomatoes ; cover them with cold 
vinegar ; put a close cover on the jar, and keep them in a 
cool, dark place. 

SWEET PICKLE OF BEETS. 

Carefully wash half a dozen beets without breaking the 
skin or trimming off the roots or stalks ; put them over 
the fire in enough boiling water to cover them, and boil them 



262 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Steadily until they arc tender enough to yield when pressed 
between the fingers ; then rub off the skins with a wet towel, 
and slice the beets ; put over the fire a pint of vinegar, a 
tablespoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns, a blade 
of mace, a small stick of cinnamon, and a pound of brown 
sugar ; stir all these ingredients until the sugar is melted 
and the pickle is scalding hot ; then pour it over the beets, 
and let them cool ; after they are cool, they will be ready 
for use. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

As these are the most wholesome pickles that can be 
made, care should be given to their preparation. Choose 
them small, of even size, and perfectly round. Peel them 
without cutting the tops and roots so closely as to break 
them apart ; as fast as they are peeled, drop them into 
strongly salted cold water, and let them stand in it for 
twenty-four hours. Then drain them on sieves, dry each 
one with a cloth, and drop them into glass jars. As soon 
as one jar is filled, put in all the cold vinegar it will hold, 
pour it out again, and measure it, allowing as much more 
vinegar for every jar ; heat the vinegar scalding hot, with 
whole cloves, cinnamon, mace, and peppercorns, using 
about a level tablespoonful of mixed spice for each quart 
jar of onions ; let the vinegar cool, and then pour it into 
the jars, dividing the spice among them. Cover the jars 
from the dust. On the second and third days, pour out 
the vinegar, scald it again, and when cold pour it again 
over the onions. The third day, seal the jars securely from 
the air. 

GRATED CUCUMBER PICKLE. 

In the season of fresh cucumbers, use them, first peeling 
them ; in winter, use salted or pickled cucumbers. Grate 
the cucumbers on a coarse grater, and if the fresh vegetable 
is used, squeeze out nearly all of the juice ; season the pulp 



RELISHES {H0RS-D'(EUVRES). 263 

highly with salt and pepper, and pack it into glass jars ; 
pour strong cold vinegar in, quite filling the jars, and then 
seal them air-tight. Use after about a week. 

The character of the pickle can be varied by adding to 
the grated cucumber one-fourth its quantity of grated green 
peppers, without the seeds, or of white onions peeled and 
grated. 

SPICED GHERKINS. 

Use small gherkins. Wash them in cold water, and cover 
them with cold brine strong enough to float an egg, for three 
days ; then drain them ; line a preserving-kettle with green 
grape-leaves ; put the gherkins into it in layers with more 
leaves, and cover them with leaves ; sprinkle a little jjulver- 
ized alum between the layers (a piece of alum the size of a 
small grain of corn will be enough for each pound of gher- 
kins) ; pour into the kettle just enough cold water to cover 
the top layer of leaves, spread a clean cloth over the top 
of the kettle, and put on the cover, placing a weight on it 
to keep it in place ; put the kettle on the back of the stove, 
where its contents will heat gradually, and let them steam, 
without boiling, for three hours ; then lay the gherkins in 
cold water for an hour : if one treatment does not green the 
gherkins sufficiently, repeat it. After the gherkins are green, 
put them into earthen jars ; put over the fire sufificient 
vinegar to cover them, allowing half a pound of sugar and 
half an ounce of mixed whole cloves, allspice, peppercorns, 
mace, and cinnamon, to each quart of vinegar ; as soon as 
the vinegar is scalding hot, pour it over the gherkins ; when 
they are cold, seal them from the air. They will be ready to 
use in about a week. 

The omission of the sugar and spice will give a good kind 
of pickled gherkins. 

Ordinary sized cucumbers can be pickled or spiced in the 
same way ; the greening with the grape-leaves may be omitted. 



264 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



PICKLED MARTINOES. 

Choose the vegetable tender enough to admit the head 
of a pin without much pressure ; wash the pods in cold 
water, and then let them stand for a week in a brine salt 
enough to float an egg ; at the end of a week, boil together 
vinegar enough to cover the pickles, allowing half a cupful 
of mixed whole spices to a quart of vinegar ; take the pods 
from the brine, wipe them with a dry towel, lay them in 
earthen jars, and pour the hot vinegar and spices over them ; 
when they are cold, cover them, and let them stand until 
they are saturated with the vinegar, then use them. 

PICKLED PEACHES. 

Choose perfectly sound peaches of medium size ; brush 
them all over with a soft brush. Boil together six quarts 
of water and a pint of coarse salt, and skim it until it is 
clear ; then cool it : the quantity may be increased or 
diminished to suit the quantity of peaches, enough being 
used to cover the peaches ; but this proportion of salt and 
water must be observed. When the brine is cold, put the 
peaches into it, and let them stand forty-eight hours ; then 
rinse them in clean water, dry them on a soft towel, and 
stick half a dozen cloves in each one. Boil, and skim till 
clear, as much vinegar as will well cover the peaches, — the 
quantity may be gauged by measuring the brine — allowing 
for each quart of vinegar, four blades of mace and a quarter 
of an ounce of stick-cinnamon ; when the vinegar has boiled 
about fifteen minutes, put in the peaches, and remove the 
preserving-kettle containing them to the back of the fire, 
where its contents will not boil ; let the peaches stand in 
the hot vinegar for five minutes, and then put both peaches 
and vinegar at once into glass jai-s, and seal them air- 
tight. 



RELISHES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 265 

Sweet pickled peaches are made by allowing a pound 
of brown sugar to each pint of vinegar, boiling the sugar 
with the vinegar and spices. 

PEACH MANGOES. 

Prepare a brine as directed in the recipe for pickled 
peaches. Choose fresh, sound peaches, brush them with a 
soft brush, and lay them in the cold brine for three days. 
Then remove them from the brine, cut a piece out of the 
top of each one, and take out the stone without enlarging 
the hole. For two dozen large peaches, mix together two 
pounds of brown sugar, one onion, and a clove of garlic 
chopped fine, four ounces each of grated horse-radish and 
white mustard-seed, one ounce of powdered cinnamon, and 
half an ounce each of ground cloves, mace, and tumeric. 
Use sufficient salad-oil to moisten these ingredients. Fill 
the peaches with them ; close the cut with a piece of peach, 
and either sew or tie it in place. Put the stuffed peaches 
into glass jars, cover them with cold vinegar, pour two 
tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in each jar, and seal them air- 
tight. 

DAMSON SAUCE FOR MEATS. 

This sauce is a good substitute for currant-jelly when 
required for game, birds, and venison. To prepare it, wash 
and put in a preserve-kettle seven pounds of damson 
plums, one pint of vinegar, and three pounds and a half 
of brown sugar, and let them heat slowly, and boil gently 
until the skins begin to burst ; then at once skim the plums 
from the sirup ; put into it four inches of stick-cinnamon, 
a teaspoonful of whole cloves, and two blades of mace, and 
continue to boil it until a little of it jellies, when cooled, on 
a saucer ; put the damsons into jars, strain the sirup, and 
pour it over them hot ; when cool, close the jars, and seal 
them air-tight. 



266 PRACTICAL AMERICA A' COOKERY. 



CIDER APPLE-SAUCE. 

Pare juicy, tart apples, quarter and core them, place 
them in a porcelain-lined preserve-kettle, pour over them 
enough sweet cider to cover them, and stew them to a 
pulp ; if all the cider is absorbed before the apples are 
done, add a litde more ; a little spice in powder may be 
added if the flavor is liked. The sauce may be made in 
quantities, as it will keep well. 

QUINCE AND APPLE BUTTER. 

Use twice as many sour apples as quinces, and half their 
combined weight in sugar ; pare, quarter, and core the 
quinces, tying the cores and peelings in a thin cloth ; put 
both quinces and cores in a porcelain-lined kettle with just 
enough cold water to cover them, and boil them gently until 
they begin to grow tender ; meantime peel, quarter, and 
core the apples, add them to the quinces, and boil them to 
a pulp : when the fruit is reduced to a pulp, add the sugar, 
boil the butter to the consistency of thick marmalade, stir- 
ring it constantly to prevent burning, and then cool it, and 
put it up as directed in the recipes for pickles and sauces. 

PUMPKIN SAUCE. 

When apples are dear and scarce, a very good sauce can 
be made with pumpkin, peeled and cooked as directed in 
the recipe for cider apple-sauce. 



CHAPTER V. 

SIDE-DISHES OF MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 

(Entries). 

AMONG the entrees are classed not only the smaller 
meat dishes suitable for this service at dinners where 
several courses are used, but also many excellent breakfast 
and luncheon dishes. Often when there are only two or 
three persons for dinner, who do not care for an elaborate 
service, some hot meat entree, with one or two vegetables 
and a simple dessert, makes up the meal. But since health 
so largely depends upon a variety in food, it is not well to 
limit the service habitually, although many of the side-dishes 
are attractive because they can easily be prepared from in- 
expensive materials. In this connection the fact should be 
remembered, that many soups and salads are also inexpen- 
sive, and they are both unquestionably most wholesome and 
appetizing. 

The side-dishes generally admit of garnishes ; and many 
of them which are fried can be tastefully arranged upon 
napkins, with lemon and parsley. The imported lace papers 
replace napkins very prettily in the service of entrees, both 
hot and cold. 

Many entrees are larded with larding pork or bacon. As 
there are some objections to its use, it may, to a degree, be 
replaced by strips of tongue boiled tender ; or of uncooked 
beef-fat, if any can be found tough enough to bear the strain 
of pulling it through the raw meat. 

267 



268 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



BROILED ROUND OF BEEF. 

Use a tender round-steak, cut an inch and a half thick ; 
cut it in strips an inch and a half square and about four 
inches long ; dip the strips in melted butter seasoned with 
salt and pepper, put them between the bars of a double 
wire gridiron, and quickly broil them over a very hot fire ; 
when they are done, put them on a hot dish, pour the 
remainder of the melted butter and seasoning over them, 
and serve them hot at once. 

PORTERHOUSE STEAK BROILED. 

The porterhouse steak is cut from the upper part of the 
sirloin where there is a large proportion of tenderloin. 
Wipe the steak with a damp cloth, or scrape it with the 
back of a knife, to remove the bone-dust, but do not wash 
it ; never pound or cut the fibres to make them tender, 
because that permits the juice to escape. Brown the steak 
as close to the fire as it can be put without burning, first on 
one side, and then on the other, and then put it far enough 
from the fire to cook it to the desired degree without burn- 
ing it ; after the steak is done, put it on a hot platter, season 
it with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve it at once. 

When beefsteak is known to be tough before cooking, it 
can be made tender by being put in a dish with enough 
salad-oil and vinegar to moisten the under side. After lying 
in the oil and vinegar for several hours, it should be turned, 
and again allowed to stand : it should be cooked without 
wiping off the oil and vinegar. 

FRIED BEEFSTEAK WITH ONION SAUCE. 

Choose a tender steak cut from the round : if the beef 
is not tender, put it, early in the evening, on a meat-dish 
containing sufficient sweet salad-oil and vinegar mixed to- 



SIDE-DISHES {entries). 269 

gether to cover the dish, and thoroughly moisten both sides 
of the beefsteak ; turn the steak over at bedtime. In the 
morning, heat a frying-pan hot enough to sizz when the steak 
touches it ; put in the steak, and quickly brown it on both 
sides ; when it is brown, set the pan where the heat is not 
too great, and cook the steak to the required degree ; mean- 
time fry the onions as directed in the recipe given below. 
When the beefsteak is done, put it on a hot dish, season it 
palatably with salt and pepper, and keep it hot. Into the 
pan where the beefsteak was fried, put the fried onions and 
all the gravy they yield, add sufficient hot water to make 
them semi-liquid ; break them up with a fork, season the 
sauce palatably with salt and pepper, pour it over the beef- 
steak, and serve the dish hot. 

BROWN ONION SAUCE. 

Peel one pint of onions, slice them, put them into a frying- 
pan with two heapmg tablespoonfuls of butter, and fry them 
brown ; then add a pint of any good gravy or broth, and a 
palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; serve this sauce 
with broiled or fried beefsteak or chops. 

BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS. 

Peel and slice a dozen white onions, put them over the 
fire in salted boiling water, and boil them for half an hour. 
Meantime heat a frying-pan, and when it is quite hot put 
into it a porterhouse steak cut an inch thick ; quickly cook 
the steak six minutes on each side, and then season it with 
salt and pepper ; drain the onions, put them into the pan 
with the beefsteak, let them fry for two or three minutes, 
and then serve them on a hot dish laid over the beefsteak ; 
pour all the gravy in the pan over them. 

Cold mashed potatoes made into little cakes and fried, 
and fried parsneps, make good accompaniments for beefsteak 
and onions. 



270 rKACTICAL AMERiCAX COOKERY. 



COLD ROAST BEEF BROILED. 

Cut rare roast beef in slices half an inch thick, lay them 
for half an hour on a plate containing enough salad-oil and 
vinegar to moisten the beef, allowing one tablespoonful of 
vinegar to three of oil. Dust the meat with pepjDer ; turn 
the slices at the end of a half-hour, and in an hour broil 
them over a hot fire-; do not wipe off the oil and vinegar 
before broiling the beef. Broil the beef very quickly at a 
hot fire, and serve it at once ; a little butter, salt, and pepper 
can be used to season the broiled beef; and it may be 
garnished, if desired, with lemon, parsley, or watercress, or 
served with a dish of sliced fresh tomatoes or cucumbers. 
Freshly grated horseradish, dressed with vinegar and salt, is 
excellent with roast beef, either hot or cold. The cold beef 
may be simply sliced, broiled, and seasoned with salt, pep- 
per, and butter. 

COLD ROAST BEEF FRIED. 

This dish is best when it is prepared in a chafing-dish 
upon the table, for its excellence depends upon its being 
served the moment it is done. Have the chafing-dish hot ; 
cut the cold beef in thick slices ; use just enough butter to 
prevent burning ; put the beef into the chafing-dish, and 
heat it on both sides ; as soon as it is hot, season it with 
salt, pepper, and either mustard, Worcestershire or walnut 
sauce, or tomato-catsup. 

HOW TO CLEAN TRIPE. 

The tripe marketed in cities is already cleaned and 
boiled, and only needs to be scalded with boiling water, 
and scraped with the back of a knife, before finally dressing 
it for the table. But in the country, it may sometimes be 
necessary for the housewife to understand the entire process 
of preparing it for cooking. Tripe consists of the walls and 



SIDE-DISHES {EXTREES). 2/ 1 

fatty portions of the stomachs of calves -and cows, carefully 
cleansed and partly cooked by boiling. It is cleaned both 
with lime-water and with lye made from wood-ashes. 
When lime is used, it should be mixed with sufficient cold 
water to make it entirely liquid. After the stomach is 
emptied, it should be sewed up so that no lime can pene- 
trate it, and allowed to remain in the lime-water for half an 
hour before scraping it. The lime must be washed off, or it 
will burn the hands. When ashes are used, the stomach is 
to be thickly sprinkled with them after it is emptied, and 
washed in plenty of cold water ; and it is put into a jar or 
firkin with enough boiling water to cover it, and remains in 
the lye thus formed for five or six hours before it is scraped. 
When neither lime nor ashes are available, the tripe must be 
repeatedly scalded with boiling salted water, and scraped 
until it is clear : after that it must be laid in cold salted 
water for a week, the water being changed every day. In 
treating the tripe with lime-water or lye, the dark surface 
can be removed by several scaldings and scrapings. The 
tripe should then be left in salted cold water for twenty-four 
hours ; after that it will be ready to be washed in fresh 
water, and boiled in salted boiling water, until it begins to 
look clear, and is tender enough to permit a broom-straw 
to be run through it. After tripe has been boiled, it can 
be kept in an earthen jar, covered with milk and water 
equally mixed, with sour milk or buttermilk, or with vinegar 
which has been scalded with plenty of spice, and poured 
upon the tripe while hot. 

The tripe bought already prepared should be well washed 
in plenty of cold salted water, and then boiled until tender 
in salted boiling water ; after that it can be pickled in scald- 
ing-hot spiced vinegar, or kept in milk or buttermilk for 
several days. There are many ways of cooking tripe ; and 
as it is nutritious and digestible, as well as cheap, it is an 



272 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



excellent winter food, when some of the meats most gener- 
ally used are scarce and expensive. If it is prepared for the 
table immediately after the first boiling, it will require rather 
high seasoning. 

Tripe is usually broiled or fried, sometimes being first 
breaded, or rolled in flour. 

ROLLS OF TRIPE, CREOLE STYLE. 

Chop very fine one small clove of garlic, peel and slice 
one medium-sized onion and a pint of tomatoes, and fry 
them with a pound of sausage-meat until the meat begins to 
brown ; meantime, scald a pound of tripe, scrape it with the 




Rolls of Tripe, Creole Style. 

back of a knife, and cut it in strips two inches wide and 
about five long. When the sausage-meat is done, season it 
palatably, put it into the pieces of tripe, roll them up, and tie 
them compactly ; put a frying-pan over the fire with enough 
butter to cover the bottom, and when it begins to brown put 
in the rolls of tripe, and quickly brown them ; also brown 
some little balls of sausage-meat ; as the tripe is browning, 
dredge a little flour over it ; when the tripe is brown, lay it 
on a dish, pour a little hot water into the pan, stir it about 
to make a sauce ; season the sauce palatably with salt and 
pepper, let it boil, pour it on a hot platter, lay the tripe on 
it as shown in the accompanying cut, with the sausage-meat 
balls in the middle. 



SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 2/3 

BEEF-KIDNEY BROILED WITH BACON. 

Wash a fresh beef-kidney, and cut it in small slices about 
quarter of an inch thick, rejecting all the membranes and 
fat ; cut as many small thin slices of bacon as there are 
pieces of kidney, and put them alternately on small metal 
skewers ; lay the skewers, thus filled with kidney and bacon, 
between the bars of a buttered double wire gridiron, and 
broil them quickly over a hot fire until the bacon is brown ; 
then dust them with salt and pepper, and serve them at 
once. The little skewers are transferred to a hot dish, and 
laid on the plates in serving them at table : serve fresh but- 
ter with them. 

BEEF-KIDNEY STEWED. 

Peel and slice a small onion ; cut a beef-kidney in small 
slices, and put it over the fire in a frying-pan with the onion 
and two tablespoonfuls of butter, and brown it ; when the 
kidney is bro\vn, dust over it a tablespoonful of flour, and 
stir it until the flour is brown, then pour in a pint of boiling 
water, season the kidney with salt and pepper, and stew it 
gently for ten minutes ; then add a tablespoonful of finely 
chopped parsley, and a glass of Madeira, and serve the kid- 
ney. The entire operation should be finished in about 
twenty minutes, because kidney grows tough if cooked too 
long. If the wine and parsley are not available, use instead 
two tablespoonfuls of any good table sauce or vinegar. 

FRIED LIVER AND BACON WITH SPINACH. 

Thoroughly wash two quarts of spinach, trim away the 
roots and tough stalks, and let it stand in cold water ; slice 
two pounds of calf s liver about half an inch thick ; pour 
boiling water upon it, let it stand until cool enough to per- 
mit the skin to be stripped off, then dry it on a cloth, and 
roll it in flour seasoned with salt and pepper ; slice a quar- 



274 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ter of a pound of bacon very thin, put it over the fire in a 
frying-pan, and fry it until it begins to crisp ; as soon as the 
bacon is put over the fire, drain the spinach, put it to boil 
in a large kettle half full of salted boiling water, and boil it 
fast until it is tender, which will be in about five minutes ; as 
soon as the spinach is tender, drain it, and throw it into 
plenty of cold salted water ; as soon as the bacon is crisp, 
take it up on a hot dish, and keep it hot ; if there is half ah 
inch of dripping in the frying-pan, put in the liver at once, 
or, if the quantity is scant, add a little lard, and when it is 
hot put in the liver ; fry the liver brown on both sides, cook- 
ing it as quickly and thoroughly as possible, and 'seasoning 
it with pepper and salt ; when the liver is done, put it on the 
hot dish with the bacon, and keep it hot. Drain the spin- 
ach, put it into the frying-pan with the drippings, and stir it 
over the fire until it is hot ; then turn it out on a hot platter, 
lay the liver and bacon on the spinach, and serve the dish 
hot at once. 

The liver may be fried with the bacon, and served without 
the spinach. 

CALF'S LIVER ROLLS. 

Have a calf's liver sliced in long, even-size slices ; scald 
it, and strip it off the skin ; lay the slices of liver on the 
table, and season them with salt and pepper ; season half a 
pound of sausage-meat, or chopped raw veal, highly with 
salt, pepper, and any powdered sweet herb except sage ; 
mix a raw egg with it, and then spread it over the slices of 
liver ; roll the slices, and tie them with string ; put into a 
frying-pan over the fire, enough butter or beef-dripping to 
cover the bottom, and let it heat ; when it begins to brown, 
put in the rolls of liver, and brown them. While the liver- 
rolls are browning, carefully wash a quart of new potatoes ; 
when the liver-rolls are brown, put them into an earthen 
baking-dish with the potatoes ; stir two tablespoonfuls of 



SIDE-DISHES {EXTREKS). 2/5 

flour into the frying-pan, and brown it ; then gradually stir 
in a quart of boiling water, season this gravy highly with 
salt and pepper, let it boil, and then pour it into the dish 
with the liver and potatoes ; place the dish in a moderate 
oven, and bake its contents for about half an hour, or 
until the potatoes are done ; then serve hot, in the same 
dish. 

After the liver-rolls have been browned, as directed above, 
they can be dusted over with flour, and again browned, and 
covered with boiling water, and stewed until tender in the 
gravy thus made. When they are tender and palatably sea- 
soned, they may be served with a dish of plain boiled 
potatoes. 

CUTLETS CLOUTE WITH TRUFFLES. 

The first engraving represents a cutlet from the rack or 
neck, trimmed and studded, or doiite, with truffles. The 
meat must be tender, and the surface studded which is to 




Cutlet Studded with Truffles. 

be dished outward. The cutlets are best when braised, or 
gently stewed in a rich brown sauce, made as described in 
the recipe for garnished fricandeau of veal. The truffles 
are cut as represented in the second picture, and a small 
deep hole is made in the lean part of the cutlets to receive 
them. The cutlets are sometimes wrapped in writing-paper 



276 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



before they are braised, to keep the truffles in place. They 
may be served in a circle on a little of the sauce, or with 




studs for Cutlets Chute with Truffles. 

a ragoiU of mushrooms and truffles cooked with them ; or 
still more elaborately, as shown in another recipe. 



CUTLETS WITH TRUFFLES, GARNISHED. 

While the studded cutlets described in the recipe for 
cutlets ciouie with truffles are being cooked, cut a large circle 




Cutlets Cloute with Truffles Garnished. 

from the bottom of a loaf of stale bread ; from the centre of 
the loaf cut out a croustade, or vase, like that shown in the 



SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 2'J'J 

picture, and fry them light brown in a large frying-kettle 
nearly full of fat, so that they can be entirely immersed. 
Set the croustade upon the circle laid on a dish, arrange the 
cutlets around it after they are cooked, and fill the hollow 
top of the croustade with some truffles heated in the sauce 
with the cutlets. 

A deft hand, an eye for proportion, and a very sharp 
small knife, all are required to make a well- shaped croustade. 
It may be less elaborate than the one shown in the picture. 

FEAZ, CUTLET BREADED, WITH TOMATOES. 

Cut about two pounds of veal-cutlet from the leg, in small 
slices ; season them with pepper and salt, roll them in 
cracker-dust, then dip them in beaten egg, and roll them 
again in cracker-dust. Have ready upon the fire a dripping- 
pan containing smoking-hot fat half an inch deep ; put the 
veal into the hot fat, and fry it brown on both sides. While 
the veal is frying, wipe half a dozen large firm tomatoes with 
a damp cloth, slice them about half an inch thick, roll them 
in flour seasoned with pepper and salt, and fry them brown 
in the pan with the veal. Serve both veal and tomatoes on 
the same dish, with the tomatoes laid neatly in a circle 
around the veal. 

The veal- cutlets may be breaded and fried, and served 
without the tomatoes. 

VEAL POT-PIE. 

Cut two pounds of the breast of veal in pieces about an 
inch square, after wiping the entire piece of meat with a 
damp towel ; put it over the fire in two quarts of cold water, 
with three cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dozen pepper- 
corns or a small red pepper ; let it slowly reach the boiling 
point, removing all scum as it rises. When the broth is quite 
free from scum, cover the saucepan containing it, and set it 



2/8 PRACTICAL AMERTCAiV COOk'F.RY. 

where its contents can simmer gently for about two hours. 
Meantime, peel a quart of small potatoes, and lay them in 
cold water ; at the end of two hours, put them with the veal 
to boil. Then quickly sift together one quart of flour, one 
teaspoonful of salt, and two of baking-powder ; mix them to 
a soft dough with about a pint of cold milk or water, using 
no more than is required to just wet the flour ; put this 
dough at once into the saucepan with the veal and potatoes, 
either in one flat piece laid on the top of these ingredients, 
or by the tablespoonful, wetting the spoon in the broth be- 
fore using it to form each dumpling. Cover the saucepan, 
and boil its contents steadily for twenty minutes. Then 
serve the pot-pie hot. If the gravy is liked rather rich, stir 
into it the yolks of a couple of raw eggs before sending to 
the table. In the old-fashioned pot-pie, which was cooked 
by the general heat of a moderate fire of wood, the entire 
bottom and sides of the dinner-pot in which it was made 
were lined with the crust, and the meat, already partly 
cooked, was put into the crust. With the moderate heat, it 
was possible to brown the crust without burning it ; but with 
our modern cooking apparatus, this would be a doubtful 
experiment to attempt. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL, LARDED. 

ThQ/ricajideau of veal is properly made from that round 
muscle which lies upon the inner side of the leg of veal, and 
is called the fioLx or cushion. To obtain it, the rest of the 
leg must be used for other dishes, which do not require 
special cuts ; a thick cutlet is sometimes used as a frican- 
deau. Use the medium-sized larding-needle, and strips of 
fat salt pork cut less than (quarter of an inch square, and two 
inches long ; put the strips of pork, or lardoons, one by one 
into the split end of the needle, and take a succession of 
stitches about a quarter of an inch long and deep in the upper 



SIDE-D/SHES (entries). 



279 



surface of the veal, in a line down the centre ; then make 
other lines of lardoons on both sides of the centre line, let- 
ting the ends of the lardoons come between each other, as 
shown in the first picture, until the upper surface of the veal 
is thickly larded ; after the veal is larded, it may be braised 




Larded Fricandeau of Veal. 

or baked, and will then present the appearance shown in 
the second picture. The fricandeau may be baked on a 
bed of vegetables, which can subsequently be rubbed 
through a sieve with a potato-masher, and form the basis 
of a brown gravy, or garnished after cooking with green 




Larded Fiicandcan after cooking. 



peas or spinach, or served with a brown mushroom sauce. 
A Xaxded. fricandeau is a choice dish, even when it is made 
from a thick cutlet. The larded fricandeaux shown in the 
third illustration are garnished with button mushrooms and 
truffles. 



28o PKACT/CAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

When it is not desirable to use lardoons of pork or bacon, 
strips of cold boiled tongue may replace them ; or of beef- 
fat, if it can be found sufficiently tough to permit it to be 
pulled through the rather dense fibre of uncooked meat. 
In larding veal, the udder fat, that portion which is usjually 
attached to the end of veal cutlet cut from the leg, makes 
passable lardoons. This fat is rather more substantial than 
that which lies about the kidneys, and which would crumble 
if drawn into uncooked meat. If the thin fat membrane, 
that is sometimes spread over spring lamb, is cut in small 
squares, and then rolled in the shape of lardoons, it may be 
used instead of pork. 

LARDED FRICANDEAUX, GARNISHED. 

After a couple of fricandeaux have been larded and 
cooked, as directed in the recipe for \zxA.qA fricandeau, they 
may be garnished elaborately, as shown in the accompanying 




Larded Fricandeaux. Garnished. 



engraving. The larding in this case is done by letting the 
ends of the lardoons meet like the old stitch in sewing 
called herring-bone : the fricandeaux are the cushions or 
noix ; the garnish is of truffles and button mushrooms, 



SIDE-DISHES {entries). 28 1 

heated in brown sauce ; and the alternate pieces of the dish 
are large sweetbreads, studded with truffles cut in pointed 
cubes, and inserted in the sweetbreads after they are 
blanched. The upper ornament is a hatelet, or garnished 
skewer, holding a cockscomb and a large truffle in place on 
the top of the centrepiece of fried bread. The base of the 
dish is a circle of fried bread, garnished with pieces of 
truffle set with cold aspic jelly, or with the white of egg 
upon the outer edge of the bread. The brown sauce may 
be made by browning together a tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour, and then gradually stirring with them the 
liquor from the canned mushrooms and truffles, and enough 
broth to make a sauce thick enough to coat the spoon \ 
season the sauce with salt and cayenne, add a glass of wine 
to it, and then heat in it the sweetbreads and the garnish. 

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. 

First blanch the sweetbreads, by soaking them in cold 
salted water for an hour, and bringing them to the boiling 
point in more cold salted water ; then lay them in cold 
water to cool them, and afterward trim off all the flesh and 
surrounding membrane ; have ready an equal quantity of 
cold tongue or ham ; for a pint of this mixture, put into a 
saucepan a tablespoonful of butter, and a teaspoonful of 
grated onion, and let them begin to color ; then stir in two 
heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, and half a pint of boiling 
water, and let the sauce thus made boil ; meantime chop 
or grate the sweetbreads or ham ; add them to the sauce, 
and let the mixture boil, stirring it all the time ; when the 
croquette mixture boils, draw it to the side of the fire, stir 
in the yolks of three raw eggs, and pour it on an oiled dish 
to cool. Have ready a frying-kettle half full of fat over the 
fire, a dish containing two or three eggs beaten smooth, and 
a large platter lull of cracker-dust or bread-crumbs ; wet the 



282 PRACTICAL AMEKICAX COOKERY. 

hands with cold water, and make the croquette mixture 
up in small cork-shaped rolls ; put the cnxjueites first in 
the cracker-dust, then into the beaten egg, and again in the 
cracker-dust; smooth them on the outside, and fry them 
golden brown in the hot fat ; when the croquettes are nicely 
browned, put them on brown paper for a moment to free 
them from grease, and then serve them hot. A lemon sliced, 
or some fresh parsley, will make a good garnish for sweet- 
bread croquettes. 

BRAIN CROQUETTES 

Can be made in the same way. 

BROILED SWEETBREADS. 

For this dish, the sweetbreads may be used either blanched 
or simply washed and trimmed. Split them, dip them in 
butter melted and seasoned with pepper and salt, lay them 
between the bars of a double wire gridiron, and broil them 
over a hot fire until they are a delicate brown color on both 
sides ; serve them hot at once, as they deteriorate by stand- 
ing after they are cooked. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS. 

Prepare the sweetbreads by blanching them ; cut them 
across in slices half an inch thick, and season them lightly 
with pepper and salt ; have ready over the fire a frying- 
kettle half full of smoking-hot fat ; roll the slices of sweet- 
bread in finely sifted cracker or bread crumbs, dip them in 
beaten egg, roll them again in the crumbs, and then fry 
them golden brown in the hot fat ; when they are done, 
remove them from the fat with a skimmer, lay them on 
brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and 
then serve them hot. 



SIDE-DISHES {ENTK&ES). 283 

SWEETBREADS IN THE CHAFING-DISH. 

If sweetbreads are prepared as directed in the preceding 
recipe until they are ready to fry, they can be quickly 
browned at the table in a chafing-dish, just enough butter 
being used to prevent burning. The more quickly sweet- 
breads are fried, the better they are ; hence the advantage 
of cooking them in a chafing-dish. 

RAGOUT OF SWEETBREADS AND MUSHROOMS FOR 
VOL-AU-VENT. 

To make this ragout, use canned button mushrooms, and 
sweetbreads blanched according to directions given else- 
where. Cut the mushrooms and sweetbreads into half-inch 
pieces. For a quart iwl-au-vent case, use a can of mush- 
rooms and two large or four small sweetbreads ; put over 
the fire, in a thick saucepan, two tablespoonfuls each of flour 
and butter, and stir them until they begin to bubble ; then 
gradually stir in the liquor in which the mushrooms were 
canned, and enough white broth, cream, or milk to make 
a sauce thick enough to coat the spoon ; put the sweet- 
breads and mushrooms into this sauce, season it palatably 
with salt and white pepper, and let it simmer until the 
sweetbreads are entirely white and tender ; if they are good 
this will be in about five minutes, as they will have been 
partly cooked in blanching ; the mushrooms are cooked in 
canning. If when the ragoiU is done, it has become too 
thick, thin it with a little milk, and see that it is palatably 
seasoned ; add to it the beaten yolks of two raw eggs, and 
a glass of wine, and use it for a vol-au-vent as directed in 
the recipe for ragout of oysters for vol-au-vent. 

HOW TO ^OIL CALF'S HEAD AND FEET. 

Have the butcher remove the hair (by scalding and scrap- 
ing) and the teeth and eyes from the head, and split it in 



384 PRACTICAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

two pieces without cutting the tongue or brains ; lay the 
brains in cold water containing a handful of salt, until it is 
time to cook them ; thoroughly wash the head in plenty 
of cold water, carefully scraping the interior of the nasal 
passage and the mouth ; have the butcher remove the hair 
from the feet, by scalding and scraping them, and split them 
in halves ; put the head, feet, and tongue, over the fire in 
enough cold water to cover them, with a heaping tablespoon- 
ful of salt, and a teaspoonful of whole peppercorns, or a 
small red pepper, and boil them until the bones can be 
pulled out easily ; the broth in which the head is boiled is 
to be strained, and saved for soup ; the tongue is to be taken 
up as soon as it is tender, the skin stripped off, and the 
tongue wrapped in a wet cloth and kept in a cool place 
until it is wanted. After the brains have lain for an hour 
in cold water, pull off all the outer membrane, being careful 
not to break the substance of the brain in removing the 
membrane from between the folds. When the brain is quite 
freed from the membrane, put it over the fire in enough 
cold water to cover it, with a teaspoonful each of salt and 
whole peppercorns, and let it boil for ten or fifteen minutes ; 
then cool it, wrap it in a wet cloth, and keep it in a cool 
place until it is wante4 for forcemeat balls for garnishing 
the calf s head, made by mixing it with an equal quantity of 
bread-crumbs, two raw eggs, and salt and pepper, and then 
either frying or poaching them. If it is desired, the brain 
may be heated in any good sauce, and served as a separate 
dish ; or the brain may be made into fritters or c7-oquet(es, 
like sweetbread croquettes. Recipes follow for serving the 
tongue and head and feet. 

CALF'S HEAD LIKE TURTLE. 

After a calPs head has been cleaned according to the 
directions given in the recipe for boiling it, and boiled until 



SIDE-DISHES {entries). 



285 



tender, it is to be separated into four or six large pieces, 
the ears cut as shown in the picture, being the centre of 
two pieces. One large piece from the cheek should be 
larded, and the brains should be blanched. Four large 
crawfish should be boiled as directed in the recipe for 
boiling lobsters ; and some qicenelles made from chicken, as 
directed in the proper recipe. When all these preparations 
are finished, make a quart of brown mushroom sauce, ac- 
cording to the recipe given elsewhere ; and boil six eggs 
hard, and remove the yolks entire. Brown the larded head 



■(T-:^-*^'-' -■>■- 





Calf's Head like Turtle. 

in a hot oven, heat the rest of the head in the mushroom 
sauce, and then arrange the dish as shown in the annexed 
cut, using a small dish set in a large one for the border, or 
make the border of freshly baked puff-paste. The quenelles, 
brains, and egg-yolks are heated with the head, and form 
the ragout which surrounds the large pieces. 



BROILED CALF'S HEAD. 

Have ready in a small bowl two tablespoonfuls of butter 
melted, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful 



286 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

of pepper ; into this mixture dip pieces of boiled calf's 
head, and then broil them between the bars of a double 
wire gridiron over a very hot fire. Serve the dish very hot, 
with a lemon quartered, or a few sprigs of parsley dipped 
in vinegar. 

The feet may be broiled in the same way, or breaded 
first, or breaded and fried, or stewed in white or brown 
sauce. 

CALF'S BRAINS. 

Blanch the brains as directed in the recipe for boiling calfs 
head. Slice them half an inch thick ; put them into a fry- 
ing-pan containing half an inch of smoking-hot butter, and 
quickly fry them brown, taking care not to break them in 
turning ; when they are nicely browned, season them with 
salt and pepper, and serve them hot. 

Or, blanch and slice the brains, and broil them. 

FRIED BRAINS. 

Have the brains prepared as for frying, and tlien quickly 
brown them in a chafing-dish at the table, using just enough 
butter to prevent burning, and seasoning 4;hem with salt and 
pepper. Like sweetbreads, they are best when quickly 
cooked. 

CALF'S TONGUE AND BRAINS. 

Heat in hot water a boiled tongue, and a brain cooked 
as directed in the recipe for boiled calfs head, keeping the 
brain as whole as possible. Make a brown gravy by stirring 
a tablespoonful each of butter and flour over the fire until 
light brown, and then gradually stirring in a pint of boiling 
water ; season the gravy with a level teaspoon ful of salt, 
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and a gill of vinegar ; 
lay the tongue and brain in a hot dish, pour the gravy over 
them, and serve them at once. 

Or, serve them with tartar sauce, which is made by mixing 



SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 28/ 

with a cupful of mayonnaise, a saltspoonful of dry mustard, 
a tablespoonful each of chopped parsley, capers, and pickles, 
and a teaspoonful of grated onion. 

LAMB CUTLETS WITH FINANCIERE RAGOtjTT. 

Make a sauce as directed in the recipe for sweetbread 
and mushroom ragout, using mushroom essence and white 
broth. Prepare a cupful each of sweetbreads and mush- 
rooms as there directed ; cut in pieces a cupful of canned 
cockscombs, or blanch some fresh ones just as sweetbreads 
are blanched ; slice a small can of truffles, or enough to 
make a cupful ; use the same quantity of cock's kidneys, 
which may be fresh ones blanched like sweetbreads, or 
canned kidneys ; put all these ingredients into the sauce, 
season it palatably with salt and white pepper, and simmer 
the ragoiit gently for about fifteen minutes ; then add a gill 
of good Madeira, and use the ragout. This is a very 
expensive dish, and one not generally used, because the 
ingredients cannot always be obtained, although in large 
cities the truffles and cockscombs and kidneys can be 
bought canned. 

Lamb cutlets may be broiled and served with this ragout, 
or breaded and fried, and then garnished with it. 

BROILED LAMB CUTLETS WITH MINT SAUCE. 

Mix together on a platter four heaping tablespoonfuls 
of finely chopped fresh mint, one of sugar, and four of 
vinegar ; lay lean lamb cutlets on this dressing or pickle, 
dust them with pepper, let them stand half an hour, and 
then turn them ; at the end of an hour, put them, without 
wiping them, between the bars of a buttered double wire 
gridiron, and broil them quickly pver a hot fire ; while 
the cutlets are being broiled, turn the chopped mint from 
the dish into a saucepan with two more tablespoonfuls of 



288 



PA\4C7VCA/. AMERICAN COOKERY. 



sugar and four of vinegar, let these ingredients boil once, 
and then serve the sauce with the cutlets ; the broiled 
cutlets are to be served hot, as soon as they are done, on 
a hot dish, with a little salt, pepper, and butter over them. 

Lamb cutlets may be broiled plain, and dressed with 
salt, pepper, and butter. 



LAMB CUTLETS IN PAPER. 



The accompanying engraving shows a cutlet, trimmed 
from the rack or neck, and laid upon a sheet of buttered 
or oiled writing-paper, cut in the shape of a very wide 




Cutlets in Paper. 

heart, ready to be enveloped in the paper ; this is done 
by a series of little folds turned from the edges of the paper, 
after it is folded over the cutlet, toward the middle, some- 
what like a hem upon a piece of cloth. Only very delicate 
cutlets are cooked in paper, or small, choice pieces of fish 
or game ; all the juice is preserved by the paper. The oil 
or butter applied to the paper prevents its burning if the 
cutlet is cooked over a moderate fire. A thin cutlet, or a 
small bird, generally requires about fifteen minutes to cook 
medium rare. Articles enclosed in paper for cooking 
should be served without removing the paper; and then, 



SIDE-DISHES {EXTREES). 289 

when the paper is cut, all the gravy or juice of the cutlet 
will be upon the plate. A little care will enable any one 
to cook papered dishes successfully. 

FRIZZLED MUTTON. 

Shave a pound of mutton from a leg which has hung at 
least six weeks ; put over the fire in a frying-pan two table- 
spoonfuls each of butter and currant-jelly, and when they 
are melted, put in the shaved mutton ; season it rather 
highly with salt and pepper, add to it a tablespoonful of 
French mustard, and let it cook for five minutes, stirring it 
to prevent burning and insure even cooking. Serve it very 
hot. Frizzled mutton can be cooked in a chafing-dish at 
the table. 

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. 

After the chops are trimmed, put them as close to the 
fire as possible, and quickly brown them on both sides ; 
after the chops are browned, move the gridiron containing 
them far enough from the fire to prevent burning, and cook 
them to the desired degree ; at a hot fire, chops an inch 
thick will cook medium rare in about ten minutes ; after 
the chops are done, season them with salt and pepper, put 
a little butter over them, and serve them hot. 

FRIED MUTTON CHOPS. 

Put a frying-pan over the fire, and heat it so that the 
chops, will siss when they are put into it. After the chops 
are trimmed, put them into the hot pan, and quickly brown 
tliem on both sides ; chops generally have enough fat upon 
them to prevent burning ; when the fat is excessive, most 
of it should be cut off, and tried out to use as drippings ; 
after the chops are cooked to the desired degree, season 
them with salt, pepper, and a little butter, and serve them 
hot. If the pan is hot enough, they will cook medium rare 
in about twelve minutes. 



?90 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



PAPER FRILLS FOR THE BONES OF CHOPS, ETC. 

A little practice will enable any one, with a careful touch, 
to make quite pretty paper frills for garnishing. To make 
the frill shown in the first figure of the illustration, cut a 




Paper Frills for Garnishing Meat-Bones. 



Strip of paper twelve inches long and four \vide ; fold it 
lengthwise, holding the folded side towards you, and with 
scissors cut inward along the folded edge to the depth of 
an inch, making a sort of double fringe ; fold the paper 



SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 29 1 

around the end of a pencil, as shown in the cut, and secure 
it with gum. To make the double frill at the bottom of 
the picture, cut a circle of paper, six or seven inches in 
diameter ; fold it through the middle, and repeat the fold- 
ing three times more until a long triangle is formed of 
sixteen thicknesses of paper; take the folds, between the 
left thumb aiid forefinger ; with scissors cut from the lower 
ends of the folds, a curve to half way up the other side 
of the triangle, which shows only one fold ; with the aid of 
the closed scissors, or the back of a small knife-blade, make 
a succession of small, scallop-like folds along the curved 
cut just made, pressing the folds from the lower end, where 
the cut began, up towards the point of the triangle, so as 
to give the edges of the curves a crimped appearance ; if 
the crimps are made small and tight enough, they will retain 
their form when the circle of paper is unfolded, as shown 
by the lettered points in the second figure of the illustra- 
tion ; by refolding them a little it will be possible to make 
the completed frill, the first figure being run into a hole cut 
in the middle of the crimped circle. 

PORK CHOPS AND APPLES. 

Wash, and wipe dry, six large sound apples of sub-acid 
flavor; cut them in eighths, and remove the cores. Trim 
away most of the bone from two pounds of fresh pork- 
chops, cut from the loin ; place a dripping-pan, containing 
a tablespoonful of fat, over the fire, and as soon as the fat 
begins to smoke, put the chops and apples into the pan, 
season them with salt and pepper, and fry them brown on 
both sides. Serve them neatly arranged on a hot platter. 

MINCED FRESH PORK. 

Chop very fine two pounds of lean fresh pork ; break 
half a pound of stale bread, and soak it soft in three- 



292 PKACnCAL AMKRICAN COOKKKY. 

quarters of a pint of milk ; mix together the minced pork, 
soaked bread, two well-beaten eggs, and a palatable season- 
ing of pepper, salt, and powdered sage ; put the mixture 
into a buttered earthen baking-dish, place it in a moderate 
oven, and bake it for two hours ; serve the dish hot. Fried 
apples make a good accompaniment for this dish. 

FRIED SOUR APPLES. 

Choose very firm, sound, sour apples ; wash and wipe 
them, cut them in quarters, and take out the cores ; put the 
frying-pan over the fire with half an inch of fat in it, and 
when the fat is smoking hot, put in the apples, and fry them 
brown, turning them carefully to prevent breaking ; just 
before they are quite brown, dust them with sugar ; when 
they are done, take them up without breaking, and sen-e 
them hot as a vegetable. 

JOWL. 

Wash a jowl in plenty of cold water ; put it over the fire 
in more cold water, and boil it gently for an hour. Then 
slice it half an inch thick, and broil it over a rather slow 
fire, to avoid burning it. When it is brown, dust it with 
pepper, and serve it on toast for breakfast. 

Boiled jowl with boiled greens or cabbage is a favorite 
dinner in the South and West. 

FRIED SALT PORK AND APPLES. 

Slice a pound of salt pork about a quarter of an inch 
thick, put it over the fire in plenty of boiling water, and 
boil it for half an hour ; then drain it, and roll it in Indian 
meal seasoned with salt and pepper ; put into a large pan 
enough drippings to cover the bottom, and while it is heat- 
ing cut some sour apples in eighths, without peeling them, 
and remove the cores ; when the drippings are hot, put in 



SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 293 

the pork and apples, and fry them together until the apples 
are just tender, but not at all broken, and the pork is 
brown ; serve them on the same dish : the drippings may 
be poured over them unless this is likely to make the dish 
too fat. 

CORNED-BEEF HASH, NEW-ENGLAND STYLE. 

Remove all cartilage and skin from cold corned beef, but 
do not take away the fat, and then chop it fine. Chop an 
equal quantity by measure of cold boiled potatoes ; season 
the beef and potatoes rather highly, put them into a frying- 
pan containing two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
stir the hash until it is quite hot. Then move it to one side 
of the pan, press it firmly together in an oblong cake, and 
let the bottom brown. When the bottom is nicely browned, 
turn the hash out on a hot dish without disturbing its shape, 
and serv^e it hot. 

FRIZZLED BEEF. 

Cut a pound of smoked beef in very thin slices, put it 
over the fire, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and let 
it begin to boil. Then drain off the water, and replace it 
with a pint of cold milk. While the milk is heating, rub to 
a smooth paste a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and 
stir it with the beef and milk ; season it with pepper, and 
let it boil gently for one minute, stirring it constantly. Serve 
the frizzled beef hot, on toast. 

Frizzled beef is also parboiled, as directed above, and 
then drainedj and warmed with eggs and butter, the beef be- 
ing stirred with the eggs, and highly seasoned with salt and 
pepper. 

The beef may be frizzled in a chafing-dish at the table. 

FRIZZLED HAM. 

Shave a pound of ham as thin as dried beef; put a frying- 
pan over the fire, and let it get smoking hot ; then put in 



294 PKACTICAL AM/iA'/CAJV COOKERY. 

the ham, and stir it for two or three minutes ; next dust it 
with dry flour, and stir it until the flour is brown. While 
the flour is browning, mix a tablespoonful each of dry mus- 
tard and vinegar together. When the flour is brown, add 
the mustard and vinegar, and enough boiling water to cover 
the ham ; let it boil gently for a moment, and then serve the 
dish for breakfast or supper. It may be prepared at the 
table in a chafing-dish. Eggs may be cooked with the ham, 
in place of the flour and water. 

FRIED HAM. 

Slice ham, put it over the fire in enough cold water to 
cover it, and let the water heat ; when the water is hot, pour 
it off the ham, put the ham over the fire, and fry it slowly 
until it is brown on both sides. Then season it with pepper, 
and serve it. Eggs are usually served with fried ham. They 
can be fried in the same pan, or separately, in enough fat to 
prevent burning, and seasoned with salt and pepper. 

BROILED HAM. 

Either freshen ham by soaking it in ice cold water over 
night, or by heating it in enough water to cover it. Then 
wipe the ham dry, put it between the bars of a gridiron, 
and brown it slightly on both sides ; season it with pepper, 
and serve it plain, or with fried eggs. 

GAME PIE. 

Bone a partridge and a quail as directed in the recipe for 
boning, and make the forcemeat described in the recipe for 
boned turkey. Make a good pastry according to the recipe 
for pastry for meat and game pies. Use for the pie such a 
mould as is shown in the first picture given here, spreading it 
very tliickly with cold butter. Roll out a large round of 
pastry about half an inch thick, set the mould on a buttered 



SIDE-D/SHES {entrees). 



295 



plate, and lay the pastry in it. Use the fingers to press the 
pastry firmly into every depression of the mould, and then 
trim it oft' just above the upper rim, so that the upper crust 




rtrf^^ 



Mould for Game Pie. 



may be laid against it. Line the bottom and sides of the 
mould with forcemeat, fill the quail with forcemeat, and put 




Game Pie Baited in a IVIould. 



it into the partridge, filling the space between the two birds 
with forcemeat. Then lay the partridge in the mould, and 
fill all the empty portion with forcemeat. Wet the upi^er 



296 PRACriCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

edge of the side crust with cold water, where it lies over the 
rim of the mould, and put on a thick upper crust. Cut or 
ornament the upper crust, making apertures for the escape 
of steam, brush it with beaten egg, and cover it with but- 
tered paper. Bake the pie slowly for three hours ; -then 
brown it ; use it either hot or cold. There will be no diffi- 
culty in taking it from the mould, if it has been well buttered ; 
for it opens at both ends when the wire fastenings are pulled 
out. 

kEEB-BIRB PIE. 

Pluck and dress the birds, leaving them whole ; either 
stuff them with veal and ham, bread-crumbs, or oysters. 
Line an earthen baking-dish with a nice pastry, made as 
directed elsewhere. Put the birds into the dish, in layers, 
with flour, butter, wine, or gravy, and seasonings, allowing to 
each dozen birds a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, a 
glass of wine, and a cupful of gravy, and a ratlier high sea- 
soning of salt, pepper, and powdered spice. Cover the birds 
with pastry, wetting the edges of the crust to make them 
adhere. Cut some places in the crust to permit the escape 
of steam while the pie is baking, brush it with beaten egg, 
and bake it in a moderate oven until it is nicely browned. 

Reed-birds may be roasted, broiled, or stewed in brown 
sauce. 

STEWED SNIPE. 

Pluck the birds carefully, cut off the heads and feet, re- 
move the gizzards only, and wipe the birds on a clean towel. 
For a dozen snipe put two heaping teaspoonfuls of butter in 
a saucepan, and let it get smoking hot, then put in the 
snipe, and quickly brown them. When the snipe are brown, 
dust over them a tablespoonful of dry flour, and stir them 
about until the flour is brown. When the flour is brown, 
cover the birds with boiling water, season them palatably 
with salt and pepper, and let them cook gently for fifteen 



SIDR-DISHES {E y TREES). 297 

minutes. Meantime, make a dozen small slices of toast ; 
and in dishing the birds, put one on each slice, and pour 
a little of the sauce in which they were cooked over them. 
Serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce-dish. 
Any small birds can be cooked in this way. 

PRAIRIE CHICKENS STEWED WHOLE. 

Skin the birds, cut off the head and feet, draw them with- 
out breaking the intestines, and truss them so that they will 
be short and plump. Put them into a large saucepan with 
sufficient butter to prevent burning, and brown them ; when 
the birds are brown, add for each one a tablespoonful of dry 
flour, and stir them about until the flour is brown. Then 
put in a gill of tomato-catsup for each bird, enough boiling 
water to cover them, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pepper, and cook them slowly for two hours, or until they 
are tender. Serve the birds with their sauce and plain 
boiled potatoes. 

BOILED PARTRIDGE WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

Pluck, singe, and draw the birds without breaking the 
entrails. Wipe them with a wet towel, and put them over 
the fire in sufficient boiling water to cover them, with a level 
tablespoonful of salt ; boil them steadily and gently for fif- 
teen minutes. Meantime, put half a pint of thick cream in 
a saucepan set in a pan of boiling water, add to it a table- 
spoonful of butter, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of white 
pepper, and stir one way until the butter is melted. Then 
leave the sauce where it will keep hot. 

When the partridges are done, put them on a hot dish, 
dry them with a soft cloth, pour the cream sauce over them, 
and serve them hot. 

STEWED SQUIRRELS. 

Skin two pairs of fat squirrels, wash them quickly in cold 
water, or carefully wipe them with a wet cloth to remove the 



2gS PRACTICAL A MEN IC AX COOKERY. 

hairs, and cut them in quarters, rejecting the intestines. 
Put a layer of sHces of fat salt pork in a saucepan, then 
place the squirrels in the sauce])an, with a palatable season- 
ing of salt and pepper, and cither a httle more salt pork, or a 
quarter of a pound of good beef or veal dripping, or butter ; 
add enough water to prevent burning, cover the saucepan, 
and cook the squirrels gently until the meat is tender. 
When the squirrels are nearly done, uncover the saucepan, 
so that the water in which they were cooked can stew 
away. Then put in enough cream or good milk to moisten 
them, let them heat again, see that they are palatably sea- 
soned, and then serve them hot. 

squiRREL-pm. 

After a pair of squirrels have been skinned, wipe them all 
over with a wet cloth to remove the hairs, and cut them in 
joints, saving the blood, and removing the entrails. The 
liver, heart, and kidneys may be used. Chop a pound of 
beef-suet fine, rejecting all the membrane ; mix it with a 
pound and a half of flour, two level teaspoonfuls of salt, and 
a level saltspoonful of pepper. Butter an earthen baking- 
dish ; add enough cold water to the suet and flour, to make 
a crust which can be rolled out about three-quarters of an 
inch thick. Line the dish with the crust, put in the squirrel 
meat and blood, adding enough cold water to half fill the 
pie ; season it highly with salt and pepper, and cover with 
the crust, wetting all the edges to make them adhere so 
closely that the gravy cannot escape. In the middle of the 
top crust, cut a little slit, to permit the escape of the steam 
while the pie is being baked. Bake the pie in a moder- 
ate oven for about two hours ; w-hen the crust is nearly 
brown enough, cover it with buttered paper. When the 
pie is done, serve it hot in the dish in which it was 
baked. 



SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 299 



FRICASSEE OF RABBITS. 

Carefully skin a pair of rabbits ; draw them ; wash the in- 
side with half a cupful of vinegar, and save it, together with 
the blood, after straining them through a fine cloth to free 
them from any fur which might get mixed with them ; wipe 
the rabbits with a wet cloth to free them from fur, and cut 
them in small pieces about two inches square, and roll them 
in flour seasoned with salt and pepper ; peel and slice one 
Spanish onion or half a dozen white ones ; put them into 
a frying-pan with two tablespoonfuls of butter and the 
rabbits, and quickly brown them ; then pour in a cupful of 
milk and sufficient boiling water to cover them, season them 
with salt and cayenne, cover the frying-pan, and stew them 
gently for about half an hour, or until they are tender, then 
serve the fricassee very hot. 

Rabbits and squirrels may be roasted and baked like hare. 

VENISON IN CHAFING-DISH. 

Use small slices of venison about a quarter of an inch 
thick. Put into a chafing-dish butter and currant-jelly in 
equal parts, enough to cover the bottom of the dish. Season 
the venison with salt and pepper, lay it in the dish, cook it 
for three minutes on each side, and then serve it. As this 
dish can be prepared at the table, it is very desirable. 

FOREST CITY SAUCE. 

A delicious sauce for venison can be made by smoothly 
blending a tablespoonful of dry mustard with half a glass 
of currant-jelly. Keep the sauce in a cool place until it is 
wanted for the table. 

FRIZZLED VENISON. 

Shave about a pound of venison from the leg, or from any 
lean part of the carcass ; put in a frying-pan over the fire a 
heaping -tablespoonful of butter and two of currant-jelly, and 



300 PRACTICAL AMERICAIV COOKERY. 

when they are hot put in the shaved venison ; season it 
rather highly with pepper and salt, and cook it for about 
five minutes, stirring it frequently ; serve at once very hot. 
The venison may be frizzled at the table in a chafing-dish. 

PASTRY FOR MEAT AND GAME PIES. 

Use half a pound of butter to a pound of flour ; chop 
one-half the butter into the flour ; add a level teaspoonful 
of salt, and enough cold water to mix it to a smooth paste, 
just soft enough to roll out. If ice-water is used, and the 
pastry is mixed with a knife instead of the hand, it can be 
kept cooler, and will be lighter and more delicate than if 
mixed with the hands. In all the making, touch the pastry 
as little and as lightly as possible with the hands, because 
heating it and pressing heavily upon it make it dense and 
tough. After the pastry is mixed, and rolled about half an 
inch thick, dredge it with flour, cut half the remaining butter 
in slices, and lay it on the pastry, leaving a space of about 
an inch all around the edges ; dredge the butter with flour, 
turn the edges in all around to enclose the outside layers of 
butter, and then double the pastry, and again roll it out 
about half an inch thick ; put the rest of the butter on it in 
slices, dredge it with flour, fold in the edges, double it, and 
roll it out as already directed ; work very quickly and lightly, 
touching the pastry as little as possible, and in the coldest 
place about the kitchen. Remember that it is heating and 
pressing pastry that make it heavy and soggy. If any pastry 
remains after the pie is made, wrap it in a floured cloth, and 
keep it in a cool, dry place : it will keep quite well for sev- 
eral days, and requires only to be rolled out two or three 
times before using it to make it quite light. 

VENISON PIE. 

Make a good plain pastry as directed in the preceding 
recipe, and line an earthen pudding-dish with it, a quarter of 



SIDE-DTSHES (ENTREES). 3OI 

an inch thick. Chop very fine enough beef-suet to make 
a quarter-inch layer next the crust, ^t the bottom and top 
of the pie. Cut the venison from the bones, and divide it 
in pieces about an inch square ; season it rather highly vvith 
salt, pepper, and ground cloves, and lay it in the dish ; pour 
over it a glass of red wine for every two pounds of venison ; 
cover it with a layer of chopped suet, and then with pastry, 
as shown in the accompanying illustration, wetting the edges 
of the upper and under crusts to make them adhere. Cut 
several places in the top crust to permit the escape of steani 
in baking, and brush the crust with beaten egg. Bake the 
pie in a moderately hot oven for two 'hours, or until the 
venison is tender ; this can be ascertained by thrusting a 
skewer into the meat through one of the cuts in the top 
crust. While the pie is being baked, stew the bones of the 
venison in enough water to cover them, with a palatable sea- 
soning of salt and pepper. When the pie is done, pour the 
gravy thus made into it through the cuts in the top crust, 
and serve it hot. 

VENISON PASTY. 

The old English venison pasty was made in a very large 
dish, simply because of the number of persons generally 
included in a household. A very good small one can be 
made in such a dish as is shown in the picture accompany- 
ing the preceding recipe. The pastry should not be too 
rich. A good recipe has been given for pastry for meat and 
game pies ; it should be about a quarter of an inch thick 
when it is placed on the pie, and should be protected with 
buttered paper until the last half-hour of baking. 

Cut the venison in small slices, and lay it in a deep dish, 
with slices of venison or mutton fat between the slices of 
venison, seasoning the layers of meat with salt, pepper, and 
powdered allspice ; pour into the dish a gravy made by 
stewing the trimmings of venison in water enough to cover 



302 



rRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



them, with salt and pepper, for an hour, or with any good 
meat-broth and claret mixed in eriual proportions ; a tea- 
spoonful of lemon-juice and a gill of port-wine may be 
substituted for the claret. When no wine is used, a very 
little chopped onion is put into English venison pasties. If 
the venison is tender, the crust may be put on the pie at 
once ; otherwise it is well to bake the venison for an hour 
before covering the pasty. Either use a bottom crust, or 
run a strip of pastry around the sides of the dish, and wet 
the edges to make the upper crust adhere. Make a groove 




Vbiiison Pasty. 

in the top crust as shown in the picture ; cut several slits 
to permit the escape of steam ; brush the crust with beaten 
egg, and bake the pasty slowly for two hours. Use it hot 
or cold. 

BROILED SPRING CHICKEN WITH CAULIFLOWER. 

While a spring chicken is being broiled in accordance 
with the recipe given for that dish, boil a fine cauliflower as 
directed in the proper recipe; and also piepare a sauce 
as directed in the recipe for Dutch sauce, ^\'hcn all these 
ingredients are ready, carve the chicken quickly in such 
pieces as are shown in the accompanying engraving, and 



SIDE-DISHES {ENTREES). 3O3 

garnish it with the cauhflower in branches, just moistened 
with the sauce ; serve it at once, with the sauce in a sauce- 
bowl. The success of this dish depends upon having all 




Spring Chickens Caruscl. 

parts of it ready at one time, and upon semng it as soon 
as it is done. 

SPRING CHICKEN FRIED IN CREAM. 

After the chicken is plucked, singed, wiped with a wet 
towel, and cut in joints, put a pint of cream into a large 
frying-pan, and place it over a moderate fire until it begins 
to color ; then put in the chicken, and fry it until the under 
side is of a delicate brown color ; now dip out part of the 
cream, and turn the chicken ; season it with pepper, and 
finish cooking it ; when the chicken is done, put it on a hot 
dish, pour into the frying-pan the cream which was taken 
out, stir it well with what remains in the pan, let it boil once, 
and serve it with the fried chicken, after sprinkling it with 
salt. 

Small spring chicken may be breaded, either whole or in 
quarters, and fried brown in plenty of smoking-hot fat. 

CHICKEN FRIED WITH OKRA. 

This dish is sometimes called chicken gumbo. To pre- 
pare it, clean a very tender chicken, and cut it in joints 
suitable for frying ; season it with salt and pepper, and roll 



304 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOR'ERV. 

it in flour ; wash two dozen pods of okra, and slice them 
thin, throwing away the stems ; peel and slice one medium- 
sized onion, cut a quarter of a pound of ham in half-inch 
dice, chop fine one small red or green fresh pepper. First, 
fry the chicken and ham brown, putting them into enough 
smoking-hot lard to half cover them ; then add the okra, 
onion, and pepper, and sufficient broth, cold gravy, or boil- 
ing water to cover all these ingredients ; season them palata- 
bly with salt, and stew them gently until both chicken and 
vegetables are quite tender ; if, while cooking, the broth 
becomes diicker than ordinary gravy, add to it a little boil- 
ing water. Fried oysters are sometimes added to the gumbo 
just before serving. A dish of plain boiled rice is usually 
served with chicken gumbo. 

BOILED RICE. 

Put a cupful of rice over the fire in salted boiling water, 
and boil it until the grains begin to burst, which will be in 
about ten or twelve minutes ; then drain it, and set the 
saucepan containing it where the rice will keep hot without 
burning, and steam it for ten minutes. A folded cloth laid 
over the saucepan will keep the rice hot without making it 
watery ; or the saucepan can be put into a moderate oven, 
uncovered. The rice will be ready to use as soon as it is 
tender. 

CHICKEN FRIED WITH SALT PORK. 

After a very tender chicken is cleaned and cut up, roll 
the pieces in flour seasoned with salt and pepper; shce 
half a pound of fat salt pork in thin slices, put it into a 
frying-pan, and fry it brown ; then take it up, and keep it 
hot ; put the chicken into the drippings, and fry it brown. 
When the chicken is brown, cover it with boiling water, 
season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil 
for a moment, and then serve the chicken and fried pork 
on the same dish, sending the gravy to the table in a bowl. 



SIDE-DISHES {EXTREES). 305 



FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 

Pluck and singe a fowl, wipe it with a wet towel, draw 
it carefully, and cut it in joints. Cut a quarter of a pound 
of salt pork in half-inch dice ; peel and chop a medium- 
sized white onion ; put the chicken, pork, and onion in a 
saucepan, cover them with boiling water, add a level tea- 
spoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of white 
pepper, and stew the chicken gently until it is tender. 
When the chicken is tender, mix two tablespoonfuls of flour 
to a smooth paste with a cupful of milk, and add it to the 
fricassee. Let it boil for two minutes, then stir in the yolks 
of two raw eggs, and serve it at once. 

PULLET WITH TOULOUSE RAGOUT. 

Dress a fat pullet carefully, truss it with the wings and 
legs close to the body, and put it over the fire to simmer 
gently in just enough hot water or broth to cover it. While 
it is being cooked, make a ragoiU as follows : Boil until ten- 
der a large sweetbread and two cockscombs, and cut them 
in small slices ; slice half a cupful of truffles ; cut the tops 
from a can of button mushrooms, and make a cupful of 
chicken quenelles according to the recipe given below ; put 
all these ingredients into enough white sauce to cover them, 
and simmer them for ten minutes. When the pullet is 
tender, remove the trussing-cords, and serve it hot with the 
Toulouse ragoiU for a garnish. 

CHICKEN QUENELLES. 

Mix together half a cupful each of the soft part of bread 
and of finely chopped or pounded chicken-meat cooked ; 
season the mixture highly with salt and cayenne, and 
moisten it with enough raw yolk of egg to bind it so that 
little olive-shaped pieces can be moulded between two small 



3o6 rRAcricAL American cookery. 

spoons ; either roll the quenelles in egg and cracker-dust, 
and fry them, or poach them until they float in boiling 
broth or water, and then use them. 

CHICKEN-PIE. 

Carefully pluck and singe a fowl weighing four or five 
pounds, wipe it with a wet towel, draw it without breaking 
the intestines, and boil it gently in enough boiling water to 
cover it until it begins to grow tender ; save the heart, liver, 
and fleshy portion of the gizzard, and the broth which the 
chicken yields in boiling. When the chicken is sufficiently 
done, take it up, cut it in joints as for a fricassee, or in 
pieces of a size suitable for the pie ; slice a quarter of a 
pound of fat pork thin, and fry it with the chicken until 
they are light brown, seasoning both palatably with salt and 
pepper. After the chicken and pork are fried, take them 
up, and stir into the pan in which they were cooked a 
tablespoonful of flour ; stir it over the fire until it is brown, 
then add to it a pint of the chicken-broth, a level tea- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; 
stir this gravy until it has boiled for two minutes, and use 
it for the pie. 

To make the crust for the chicken-pie, mix together in 
a bowl, with a knife, a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and just enough cold 
water to hold the flour together ; put the paste, made in 
this way, upon a floured pastry-board, and roll it out about 
an inch thick ; then cut a quarter of a pound of good, firm 
butter in large slices, and lay' them all over the paste, fold 
it together in such a way that the butter is enclosed in the 
paste, wrap the paste in a floured towel, and put it in a 
cool place for half an hour. At the end of half an hour, 
roll out the paste, cut a quarter of a pound of firm butter 
in large slices, lay them on the paste, fold it so as to enclose 



SfDE-DISIIKS {entries). 307 

tlieni, and, after wrapping it in a floured towel, keep it again 
in a cool place for half an hour. Then roll it out to the 
thickness of half an inch, fold it in three thicknesses, and 
roll it out again. If the butter breaks through the paste, 
again wrap it in a floured towel, and cool it for half an hour 
before rolling it out and using it for the pie. If the butter 
does not break through, roll and fold the paste again, and 
then use it to line a deep earthen dish. This pastry can be 
made for the upper crust, and a plainer one for the under 
part, if that is desirable. After the dish is lined with pastry, 
put the fried chicken and pork in, in layers ; pour over 
them sufficient gravy to moisten them ; cover them with a 
top crust, wetting the edges of the crust to make them 
adhere ; cut the top crust to permit the steam to escape 
from the pie while it is being baked ; brush it over with 
beaten egg, and bake it brown in a moderate oven. If any 
gravy is made in excess of what is used in the pie, heat 
it, and send it to table with the pie ; indeed, it is always 
advisable to have plenty of gravy to serve with the pie. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

Use cold roast or boiled chicken, chopped not too fine, 
three-quarters of a pound to a quarter of a pound, or half 
a can, of mushrooms cut in small dice. Put into a sauce- 
pan a teaspoonful of grated onion and a tablespoonful of 
butter, and let them begin to brown ; then stir in two 
heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, and half a pint of chicken- 
broth or water, or of water mixed with the liquor of the canned 
mushrooms ; then add the chopped chicken and mushrooms, 
a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and a glass of sherry 
or madeira ; stir the croquette mixture until it begins to boil ; 
then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and stir in 
the yolks of four raw eggs ; after the eggs are added, pour the 
croquette mixture upon an oiled dish, and cool it. 



3o8 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



After the croquette mixture is cold, fry the croquettes as 
follows : Have ready a deep bowl containing two eggs 
beaten smooth ; a large platter full of cracker-dust or fine 
bread-crumbs ; and, over the fire, a frying-kettle half full 
of fat ; wet the hands with cold water, form the croquettes 
like large corks, handling them very lightly and quickly ; 
roll the croquettes in crumbs, then dip tliem in the beaten 
eggs, and again roll them in crumbs, and fry them golden 




Chicken Cfoquetus. 



brown in the smoking-hot fat. When the croquettes are 
done, take them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them on 
brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and 
then arrange them as shown in the accompanying illustra- 
tion, and serve them hot. 

The shaping of the croquettes requires a very light, deft 
touch, because, to be good, they should be very soft. A 
little practice will enable any careful person to make them 
successfully. 



SIDE-DISHES {ENTRJ^ES). 309 



TURKEY-HASH. 

Remove the skin and bone from cold roast turkey, and 
chop it rather fine ; put with the meat any cold stuffing 
and gravy on hand, or hot water enough to moisten it, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and any powdered 
herb except sage ; put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a 
frying-pan, put in the hash, set the pan over the fire, and 
stir the hash until it is very hot. Just before the hash is 
done, poach three or four eggs by breaking them into boil- 
ing salted water ; as soon as the hash is taken up, put the 
poached eggs on it, and serve it at once. The turkey-hash 
may be served without the poached eggs. 

STEWED OR POTTED PIGEONS. 

Carefully pluck half a dozen pigeons ; singe them, wipe 
them with a wet towel, and cut off the head and feet ; in 
drawing them, take care not to break the entrails, and save 
the hearts, livers, and gizzards ; put two tablespoonfuls of 
butter in a saucepan, let it get smoking hot, then put in 
the pigeons, and brown them ; when they are brown, dust 
over them a tablespoonful of dry flour, and move them 
about until the flour is brown ; then cover them with boil- 
ing water, season them palatably with salt and pepper, and 
simmer" them gently until they are tender. Meantime, shell 
enough very young green pease to fill a pint-measure ; if the 
pods of the pease are not clean, wash them before shelling, 
but do not wash the shelled pease. When the pigeons are 
tender, put the pease with them, and continue to cook them 
until the pease are just tender ; then serve the pigeons in 
a deep platter, with the pease under them. 

Or, simply stew the pigeons until tender, and serve -them 
without the pease. The pigeons may be stuffed with any 
good forcemeat before they are cooked. Sometimes they 



310 PRACTICAL AMERICA X COOKERY. 

are tied up in thin slices of salt pork or bacon before 
they are stewed, the bacon being ser\ed with them. The 
gra\y in which they are cooked is served with them. 

SqXJAB-FIE. 

Make a good pastry according to any of the recipes 
already given, and line a deep earthen dish with it ; cut a 
pound of the breast of tender veal in slices half an inch 
thick, after first taking out the bones, and put a layer of 
the meat around the sides and on the bottom of the dish ; 
carefully pluck six squabs, cut off the heads and feet, singe 
and draw them, and wipe them with a wet towel ; chop the 
livers and gizzards fine, with an equal weight of fat salt pork 
or bacon ; add to them then an equal measure of fine bread- 
crumbs, one raw egg, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pepper, and use this forcemeat to stuff the squabs ; lay them 
in the dish prepared as directed above, and put over them the 
rest of the sliced veal ; put over the fire in a frying-pan a 
dessertspoonful each of flour and butter, stir them until they 
are brown, then stir with them a cupful and a half of boil- 
ing water and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; 
when this sauce boils, pour it into the squab-pie, and cover 
the pie with an upper crust of pastry, wetting the edges to 
make them adhere ; cut several slits in the upper crust, and 
brush it over with beaten egg. Bake the pie for two hours 
in a moderate oven, taking care that it does not burn ; if 
the crust browns too quickly, cover it with buttered paper, 
and moderate the heat of the oven. Serve the pie hot or 
cold. 

FOIE-GRAS WITH TRUFFLES. 

This dish is not usual in America, because generally both 
ih^feie-gras, or fat goose-liver, and the truffles are imported 
in jars or cans. The fresh trufiles are seldom obtainable, the 
few which are brought being for special use ; but those in 



SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 



311 



cans will serve for the dish. Occasionally it is possible to 
obtain a fresh fat hver in some of the cities where there is 
a large German population. The liver is cleansed carefully, 
and semicircular cuts are made to receive slices of truffles, 
as shown in the engraving ; it is then braised in broth, with 
a little madeira and seasoning, and served with a garnish of 




Foie-Gras with lyuffles. 

truffles stewed in the same wine, or in a rich brown sauce 
made with wine. The canned truffles need no preparation 
for cooking, and their liquor is used for the sauce ; fresh 
truffles should be carefully washed in plenty of cold water, 
with a soft brush, and then stewed whole. 



TRUFFLES. 

Fresh truffles are sometimes boiled or baked, like pota- 
toes, and served hot, covered with a folded napkin, as a 
vegetable course. 



CHAPTER VI. 

REMOVES OF MEAT AND POULTRY [Releves). 

IN this course, the large dishes of meat and poultry, which 
are boiled or baked, belong ; but the baked poultry has 
been classed among the roasts, because in many houses 

there are no arrange- 
ments for roasting, 
and poultry baked in 
a very hot oven is 
nearly as good as that 
roasted before the 
fire. 

In family dinners, 
the meat dishes be- 
longing in this course 
generally form the 
bulk of the dinner ; 

Ribs of Beef, Untrimmed. the SOUp Or fish being 

frequently omitted, 
and the joint accompanied by one or more vegetables, and 
followed by a plain dessert. 




RIBS OF BEEF BONED AND ROLLED. 

The favorite roasting-picce of beef in America is the rib 
cut. The first engraving given here shows the first cut of 
the ribs as they are taken from the fore-quarter of beef. 
The second picture shows the ribs cut short, and trimmed 



RE MO VES {REL E FES) . 



313 



ready for roasting. The third is a number of ribs boned 
and rolled by the butcher. All the trimmings should be 
sent home with the boned ribs, to be used for soups or 





Ribs of Beef, Trimmed. 

sauces ; sometimes the ends of the ribs only are sawed off 
and removed. When all the bones are taken out, and the 
roll of meat is tied very tight, it will remain in place after 
cooking, and can be carved more easily and economically 




Ribs of Beef, Boned and Rolled. 



than when the bones remain. The rolled ribs may be 
roasted, baked, or braised, according to the general direc- 
tions for such operations, and served with any chosen gravy 
or garnish, or with a plain green salad. 



314 PRACTICAL AMERICAN' COOKERY. 



BAKED BEEF. 

After beef has been prepared by the butcher, wipe it with 
a wet cloth, put it in a very hot oven in a dripping-pan, and 
brown it quickly. After the beef is brown, season it with 
salt and pepper. If a frothed surface is desired, dredge the 
beef with dry flour, and pour over it several spoonfuls of the 
drippings in the pan every fifteen minutes while it is being 
baked. Do not put any water in the pan : if the beef is not 
fat enough to yield drippings, use a little butter, or a slice 
of bacon or salt pork if their flavor is desired. After the 
beef is done to the desired degree, make the gravy as 
directed in the rqcipe for roast beef. In a hot oven, fifteen 
minutes to a pound will bake beef medium rare. Never try 
to bake meat in a cool oven. The oven, if too hot, can be 
cooled a little after the beef is brown, by opening the door ; 
but the heat should be as great as it can be without burning 
the meat. 

BEEF A LA MODE, WITH STUFFING. 

Cut several holes in a piece of the round of beef weighing 
about six pounds, and fill them with the following stuffing, 
binding wide tape or strips of clean cloth over the cuts to 
keep in the stuffing : Chop very fine three-quarters of a pound 
of raw beef, and a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork ; mix 
them with one pound of grated bread, a quarter of a pound 
of butter, one level teaspoonful each of powdered thyme, 
savory, cloves, and allspice, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one 
saltspoonful of pepper, and a dust of cayenne. After the 
beef is stuffed, lay it on skewers or a plate in a kettle ; pour 
over it three pints of boiling water, cover the kettle closely, 
and stew the beef over a gentle fire for four hours. When 
the beef is done, take it up, remove the tapes, and keep it 
hot. Take out the skewers or plate, thicken the gravy with 
a tablespoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little of the 



RE MO FES {KELE V£s) . 



315 



gravy, boil the gravy for one minute, season it palatably 
ftith salt and pepper, add to it three tablespoonfuls of wine 
or tomato-catsup, and serve it with the beef. 

BEEF A LA DAUBE. 

As has been shown in the chapter on Carving, beef with 
strips of fat salt pork inserted with the grain of the meat 
may be cooked and served like beef a la mode. Vegetables 
cut with a fluted knife, or with vegetable-scoops, as shown 
in the chapter devoted to vegetables, can be used as a gar- 
nish for beef « la daiibe ; or it may be cooked and served as 
directed in the preceding recipe, omitting the stuffing. 

LARDED FILET OF BEEF WITH TOMATOES. 

After zfikt ox tenderloin of beef is trimmed, wipe it with 
1 wet cloth, lard it as directed in the recipe for fricandeau 
Df veal, and either roast or bake it according to the direc- 





Larded Filet of Beef with Stuffed Tomatoes. 

tions already given. Before placing the ^lel to cook, it is 
well to protect the lardoons with buttered paper. While 
the Jilef is being cooked, w]pe as many medium-size fresh 
tomatoes as will surround it, and stuff and bake them as 
directed in the recipe for stuffed tomatoes. Just before 
theyf/(?/is done, remove the buttered paper, so that the lar- 
doons may brown ; arrange the _/?/?/ on a hot dish with the 
tomatoes around it, as shown in the accompanying cut, 
and serve it hot. Very small hearts of lettuce, closely 



3l6 rR AC TIC A I. AMERICAN COOKERY. 

trimmed, are used as part of the garnish, if they are in 
season. 

The lardoons are sometimes cut from boiled tongue, when 
there is any objection to the use of pork or bacon ; but the 
tongue does not help to brown the meat. If beef-fat is 
tough enough to pull through the meat without breaking, it 
is the best substitute for larding pork. 

TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH SPAGHETTI, MILANAISE 
STYLE. 

The flcf or tenderloin of beef is excellent braised, and 
served with a small kind of Italian macaroni called spaghetti, 
or threads. After Xhejilef is trimmed, lay it in a braising-pan 
with a slice of fat pork under and over it, and a carrot, a 
turnip, and an onion peeled, a tablespoonful of salt, and 
a fagot or bouquet of sweet herbs made by tying together a 
few sprigs of parsley, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme or marjo- 
ram, and a dozen cloves and peppercorns, and add enough 
boiling water to cover it. The braising-pan is then closed, 
and the meat cooked slowly for an hour. Meantime the 
spaghetti is boiled for ten minutes in salted boiling water, 
and then drained and laid in cold water. A sauce is made 
by browning together a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour, and then gradually mixing with them a pint of the 
broth from the meat. The sauce may be made more elabo- 
rate by putting into it small bits of cold chicken or tongue. 
Just before the ^/<?/ is taken up, the spaghetti is taken from 
the cold water, and warmed in the sauce. The filet is 
dished with the spaghetti as a garnish, and served hot. 

FRESH TONGUE, BOILED. 

Fresh beef, calf, pig, or lamb tongue, or those which 
have been only slightly salted, make a very nice dish. To 
prepare them, soak them over night in plenty of cold water 



REMOVES {RELEVES). 31/ 

to freshen them sHghtly if they are salted, or to blanch them 
if they are fresh. The next day put them over the fire with 
cold water for salted tongues, or boiling water for fresh ones : 
allow twenty minutes to each pound for boiling, from the 
time they begin to boil. A lemon sliced, or a cupful of vin- 
egar, and a teaspoonful each of whole cloves and pepper- 
corns, boiled with tongues, greatly improves their flavor, 
\\'hen they are done, take them up, remove the skin, and 
return them again to the pot-liquor to keep hot ; or, if they 
are to be used cold, let them cool in it. At the table, slice 
them in rather long slices, beginning near the tip. All the 
fleshy parts and the fat near the roots of the tongues will 
serve to make excellent hash when cold. 

ROBERT SAUCE. 

Serve with the tongues a hot sauce, made as follows : 
Chop a peeled onion in quarter- inch dice, and fry it in a 
tablespoonful of butter until it is brown. Then add half 
a cupful of vinegar, and boil rapidly until the vinegar is 
nearly evaporated. Next stir in a cupful and a half of any 
cold brown gravy ; or, lacking the gravy, stir in first a table- 
spoonful of dry flour, and let it brown, and then mix in a 
cupful and a half of boiling water. Season the sauce highly 
with salt and pepper, and simmer it slowly for fifteen min- 
utes. Just before using it, stir in a dessertspoonful of 
French mustard. 

HIND- QUARTER OF VEAL. 

The picture shows an entire hind-quarter of veal as found 
in market. The lines given are the average cuts in use 
throughout the country for dividing the quarter, which is 
generally too large for family use. Fig. i indicates the 
knuckle, used for soups and jellies ; Fig. 2 shows that part 
usually separated in slices for cutlet, the inner portion being 



3i8 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN CVVKI.RY. 



that from which the noix or cushion is cut for z. fricandeau ; 
Fig. 3 is the rump or lower end of the loin, used for pot- 
roasts, a la mode veal, and also for roasting and baking; 




Hind-Quarter of Veal. 



Fig. 4 is the loin proper, which is either roasted or baked, 
or cut into chops for broiling or frying. 



LARDED CANTONS OF LAMB. 

The shoulders of small laml), boned from the inside so 
as to avoid breaking the skin, can be stuffed and larded as 
shown in the accompanying jjicture, and then either roasted 
or baked, and garnished with olives and button-mushrooms, 
heated in a brown mushroom sauce ; any good forcemeat 
or stuffing can be used, and the lardoons protected with 
buttered paper while the cantons are being cooked. To 
remove the bones, cut from the inside of the shoulder, to 
take out the shoulder-blade, then cut the flesh away from 



RE MO VES {REL E V£s). 



319 



the round bone, turning it away like a glove from the hand, 
until that part of the bone just above the foot-joint is 
reached ; cut the bone here from the inside, and trim the 
end projecting from the flesh to resemble the bill of a duck; 




Larded Cantons of Lamb. 

after the cantons are stuffed and larded, truss them in the 
form of ducks, as shown in the picture, and then bake or 
roast them, and garnish them as directed above, first re- 
moving the strings which confine the stuffing ; serve a brown 
gravy or brown mushroom sauce with them. 

BOILED MUTTON. 

Use the upper part of a large leg of mutton, or a small 
one entire ; wipe it with a damp cloth, chop off the end of 
the leg bone, and put it over the fire in sufficient boiling 
water to cover it ; season it with a level tablespoonful of salt 
and a small red pepper, or a dozen peppercorns, and boil 
it gently about two hours, or until quite tender. When it is 
done, serve it with Forest City sauce ; or use caper sauce, 
which is white sauce containing capers. 

BAKED FRESH PORK. 

If the skin is left on the pork, as it is in some markets, 
scrape it with a dull knife, wash it thoroughly with a wet 



320 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

cloth, and score it in little squares ; if the skin has been 
removed, trim off some of the superfluous fat. Using a 
sharp, thin knife, cut out the chine or backbone, disjointing 
it from the ends of the ribs, so that the meat may be carved 
with ease ; put in the dripping-pan a few slices each of 
carrot, turnip, and onion, a dozen whole cloves, a level tea- 
spoonful of peppercorns, and a few leaves of parsley or 
celery; lay the pork on these vegetables, put the pan in a 
moderate oven, and brown the meat; when the meat is 
brown, season it with salt, pepper, and powdered sage, and 
finish cooking it, allowing fifteen minutes to each pound of 
meat. An hour before the pork is done, prepare the garnish 
for it as follows : Peel a dozen small white onions without 
breaking the layers apart ; put them into a pan with a tea- 
spoonful of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, and a little salt 
and pepper ; set the pan in the oven, and occasionally shake 
it to move the onions about, and insure their uniform brown- 
ing ; after the onions are prepared, wash four tart apples, 
quarter them, remove the cores, place them in a pan just 
large enough to hold them, with a tablespoonful of butter 
distributed over them, and bake them until they are tender, 
but not at all broken ; keep the onions and apples hot to 
serve with the pork. When the pork is done, put it on a 
hot dish ; arrange the apples and onions in little groups 
around it, and serve it with a dish of plain boiled potatoes 
and brown gravy. To make the gravy, after the pork is 
taken from the baking-pan, pour out nearly all the drip- 
pings, leaving in the scraps of vegetables ; set the pan over 
the fire, stir in a heaping tablespoonful of flour until it is 
brown, and then a pint of boiling water, adding the water 
gradually ; season the gravy thus made, palatably with salt 
and pepper, let it boil for a moment, and then strain it, and 
serve it with the baked pork. 



REMOVES {RELEI'ES). 32 1 

BAKED PORK WITH POTATOES. 

Peel, boil, and mash a quart of potatoes, and, in mashing, 
season them highly with salt, pepper, and powdered sage ; 
remove all the bone from a shoulder of fresh pork, cutting 
from the inside, and leaving the meat as whole as possible ; 
after the bone is removed, season the inside of the meat, 
stuff the mashed potato into the cavity, and sew up the 
shoulder so as to restore its original shape ; if the skin is 
left on the shoulder, scrape it with a dull knife, wipe it with 
a wet cloth, and then score it in half-inch squares ; put the 
meat into a very moderate oven, so that it may cook slowly 
and thoroughly, twenty minutes to the pound ; serve with 
it boiled beets, or cabbage dressed with vinegar, or a sauce 
made of sour apples. If a gravy is desired, make it as fol- 
lows : After the pork is done, take it up, remove the strings, 
and keep it hot ; pour out of the pan all but two tablespoon- 
fuls of the drippings, set the pan over the fire, stir into it 
two tablespoonfuls of flour, and let it brown, then stir in 
enough boiling water to make a gravy of the proper consis- 
tency, season it palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil 
for a moment, and then serve it with the meat. The char- 
acter of the gravy can be changed by adding to it two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, or a dessertspoonful of mixed mustard, 
or half a cupful of pickles chopped very fine, or two table- 
spoonfuls of pickled onions very thinly sliced. 

The chine, loin, and leg of pork are used for roasting and 
baking. Any of these pieces may be stuffed, or simply sea- 
soned and cooked. The gravy is to be made according to 
the above recipe, or the pork may be cooked in accordance 
with the next recipe. 

BAKED TENDERLOINS. 

Wipe the tenderloins with a damp cloth, lay them in a 
dripping-pan with the sweet potatoes, and brown them 



322 PRACTICAL AM/iA'/CAX COOKERY. 

quickly in a hot oven ; then season them with salt, pepper, 
and powdered sage, and bake them about forty minutes. 

In cool weather, there is no meat more savory than the 
tenderloin of fresh pork. Prime ones are large, thick through 
the centre, bright red in color, and closely intersected with 
lines of white fat ; if the pork is from a perfectly healthy 
animal, and thoroughly cooked, it is entirely wholesome for 
any person except those who have weak digestions. The 
tenderloins may be split and stuffed before they are baked. 

BAKED SWEET POTATOES. 

Peel the potatoes, put them into the dripping-pan with 
the tenderloins, bake them until tender, and serve them 
with the tenderloins and stuffed apples. 

STUFFED APPLES. 

Prepare the apples as soon as the tenderloins are in the 
oven ; wipe them with a wet towel, cut a thick slice from 
the stem end of each, scoop out the core without cutting 
through the apples, fill each one with an ounce of highly 
seasoned sausage-meat, or with the slice from the top, 
chopped and seasoned ; arrange them on a large tin pan. 
dust them over with cracker-dust, and bake them until 
tender. Serve them with the tenderloins. 

Tenderloins may also be broiled and fried, seasoned with 
salt, pepper, and powdered sage. 

HAND OF FRESH PORK. 

The hand of pork is the leg or shoulder of young pork 
cut short, and boned from the top without marring the skin. 
After the leg is boned, it is stuffed with any good forcemeat, 
or with highly seasoned bread-stuffing, and sewed at the 
top as shown in the picture given in the chapter on Carving. 
The hand may either be boiled or roasted, and served with 



REMOVES {RELEVES). 323 

a garnish of string-beans, or a fresh green salad. With a 
good forcemeat, the hand makes a nice cold dish for 
supper. 

BROILED PORK WITH CHILI SAUCE. 

• The Chili. sauce is to be prepared in advance of cooking 
the meat, and in a considerable quantity, as it will keep 
some time. The directions for making it are given below. 
To cook the pork, have cutlets about half an inch thick cut 
from the leg of fresh pork ; put the cutlets between the bars 
of a double gridiron, and broil them brown over a moderate 
fire, allowing about twenty minutes to cook them ; when 
they are well done, put them on a hot platter, season them 
with salt and pepper, put a Utde butter over them, and serve 
them with a dish of Chili sauce. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Scald ripe sound tomatoes, peel them and weigh them ; 
to five pounds, add one pound of onions peeled and sliced, 
five ounces of fresh red peppers, weighed after the seeds 
are taken out, and then chopped fine, a quarter of a pound 
of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of salt, and a pint of 
vinegar ; put all these ingredients over the fire in a porce- 
lain-lined kettle, and boil them slowly, stirring them fre- 
quently to prevent burning ; after the sauce begins to boil, 
it must be stirred almost incessantly. In about half an hour 
it will be quite thick ; it should be boiled until it is about 
the consistency of apple-sauce. After the sauce has been 
boiled enough, remove the kettle from the fire, let the sauce 
cool in it, and then bottle it and cork the bottles tight. 

HOW TO DRESS A ROASTING-PIS. 

A roasting-pig is in prime condition when it is three to 
six weeks old. As soon as it is killed, plunge it into cold 
water for five minutes, then rub it all over with powdered 



324 PRACTICAI. AMERICAN COOKERY. 

resin, and put it into scalding water for one minute. Then 
lay it on a clean board, and pull and scrape off the bristles, 
taking care not to injure the skin. If any of the bristles 
do not come off readily, scald that part again and scrape it. 
When all the bristles are removed, wash the pig thoroughly, 
first in warm water, and then several times in plenty of 
cold water. Then slit the pig from the throat downward, 
and take out the entrails, saving the heart, liver, lights, and 
spleen : lay these parts in cold salted water. -Wash the pig 
again in cold water, and then wrap it from the air in cloth 
wet in cold water, until it is wanted for use. 

A good roasting-pig has a soft, clean, pinkish-white skin, 
plump hams, a short curly tail, thin delicate ears, and a 
soft fringe-like margin all around the tongue. 

BAKED SUCKING-FIG. 

Choose a small plump pig. Use the liver, heart, and 
lights for the dressing, after first putting them over the fire 
in salted boiling water, and boiling them until tender, or 
stewing them raw and browning them in butter. Peel and 
grate an onion, put it over the fire in a frying-pan with two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and fry it slowly ; mince the heart, 
liver, kidneys, and add them to the onion ; soak two 
cupfuls of bread in cold water until soft, then squeeze it 
in a towel to extract the water, and put it with the minced 
haslet and onion ; season the mixture highly with salt, pep- 
per, ground sage, and marjoram, and stir it until it is scald- 
ing hot ; use this stuffing for the pig ; sew it up, truss it so 
as to keep the legs in place, put it into a dripping-pan 
just large enough to hold it, and bake it in a moderate 
oven ; for the first hour baste it with butter and hot water, 
and after that with butter alone ; if the ears and tail seem 
in danger of browning, wrap them in buttered paper; 
season the pig with salt and pepper two or three times 



REMOVES {RELEVES). 325 

while it is being basted, k. medium-sized pig will bake in 
from two to two and a half hours. \Vheu the pig is done, 
put it on a dish to keep hot after removing the stitches 
which retain the stuffing ; place the dripping-pan over the 
fire, stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and brown it, and then 
add equal quantities of boiling water and wine, or -three 
parts of water and one of mushroom or walnut catsup ; let 
the gravy thus made boil once, season it palatably with salt 
and pepper, and then serve it with the baked pig. The 
stuffing may be varied by using mashed potatoes instead 
of soaked bread. Apple-sauce is the usual accompaniment. 
Cold slaw and cranberry-jelly or stewed cranberries are 
used in the South with roast pig. 

Prepare apple-sauce as follows : — 

Peel, quarter, and core tart apples ; stew them to a pulp 
over a slow fire, adding at first three tablespoonfuls of water 
to a pint of apples, to prevent burning ; when the apples 
are stewed to a pulp, stir them with a tablespoonful of 
butter to each pint of the sauce, and then use the sauce 
either hot or cold. 

SALTING AND SMOKING MEAT. 

The salting and smoking of meat can be accomplished 
on a small scale, and sometimes is very desirable. With 
the aid of the annexed engravings, which are copied from 
Gouffe's " Book of Preserves," any intelligent carpenter can 
make the necessary apparatus. The first figure represents 
a box or trough, made of boards two inches thick, about 
six feet long by two feet wide, with sides three inches high ; 
the trough is set slanting upon strong legs held by a cross- 
bar, and has an opening at the lower end for the escape of 
the brine from the salting compound. For family use, a thick 
wide meat-board, placed at a moderate angle of inclination, 
may replace the salting-trough. 



326 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

The second figure shows the salting-bin or pickling-tub, 




Pickling or Saiihnj ,,uuij,i. 

a wooden box about three feet square, made of two-inch 




Pickliiig-Tiib, or Salting-Bin. 



boards, and set upon strong short uprights. For small use, 
a stout cask or barrel may replace the tub. 



{K£MO I -£S KELE I '£S) . 



3^7 







t^ 



< •*-• i^l^tWiTtm*' 



Smoking Closet or Furnace, 



328 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

The third figure represents the smoking-closet, a wooden 
box on uprights, with a door, a funnel upon the top to 
carry off tiie smoke, and an aperture in the bottom to 
receive it from a small stove ; the closet is about three feet 
by five, with strong iron rods running through the top to 
hold the meat. The stove or furnace which stands under 
the closet must have a funnel to carry the smoke into the 
closet ; the row of holes around the top of the stove, shown 
in the picture, is for the admission of air which would enter 
at the bottom of an ordinary small furnace. 

For family use, a smouldering fire is sometimes built 
under a large barrel, and smothered with sawdust of hard 
wood ; and the meat is suspended across the top of the 
barrel. Another small way of smoking is to hang the meat 
over the top of a barrel which is open at both ends, and 
set it over a pile of oak sawdust in which a large piece of 
red-hot iron is buried; the top of the barrel is covered after 
the smoke begins to rise. 

SALTING MEAT FOR SMOKING. 

After trimming the meat in the proper joints, it should 
be laid in the salting-trough, and thoroughly rubbed with 
the salting mixture. For eighteen pounds of meat, mix, by 
pounding together to a powder, two pounds of good bay 
salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and four of brown sugar; 
thorouglily rub this mixture into the meat every day for 
four days ; then cover it with dry bay salt, fresh every day, 
for twelve days, keeping a board over the meat with a heavy 
weight upon it. It is important to apply the salting mixture 
and dry salt every day, and to let the blood and brine drain 
freely away from the meat. When the meat is pork, the 
skin should be downward. After two weeks, the meat will 
be ready to smoke. Small joints should be smoked for a 
week, large ones from ten days to two weeks : small tongues 



REMOVES {RELEVES). 329 

may be smoked after six days' salting, and large ones after 
ten. 

HOW TO PICKLE MEAT. 

For eighteen pounds of meat, pound to a powder half 
an ounce of saltpetre and an ounce of brown sugar, and 
rub the mixture well into the meat ; make enough brine to 
cover the meat, by dissolving in water all the bay salt it will 
receive ; boil it up, and skim it, then cool it, and pour it 
over the meat in the pickling- tub ; for four days take the 
meat out of the brine every day, rub into it the above 
quantity of saltpetre and sugar, and replace it in the brine ; 
after four days, turn the meat every day in the brine for ten 
days ; it will then be ready to smoke for eight days, or may 
remain in the pickle simply as corned meat. 

SMOKING MEAT. 

The best wood for smoking meat is oak, and, where a 
barrel is used, oak sawdust ; green hickory and maple are 
used in New England ; dried corn-cobs make a good 
smoke ; pine wood should never be used for smoking meat. 
In the small stove or furnace, shown in the illustration of the 
smoking-closet, a fire is first made of charcoal. Upon the 
live coals a thick layer of sawdust is spread ; and over that 
half a dozen bay-leaves, a bunch of dried thyme, and twenty 
juniper-berries are laid. The fire is kept smouldering by 
renewing the sawdust, and fresh herbs are added every e^ 

other day, as long as meat is kept in the smoking-closet. , 



KNICKERBOCKER DRIED BEEF. 

Use a piece of the round of beef, weighing from six to 
ten pounds. After trimming it, rub it all over with brown 
sugar once a day for three weeks. After rubbing it with 
sugar every day, rub it well with common salt and powdered 
saltpetre, using an ounce of saltpetre to four pounds of 
sugar, and double that quantity of salt ; the action .of the 






330 PRACTICAL AMKRfCAX COOKERY. 

saltpetre is to redden and harden the beef. After the beef 
is salted, turn it every day for two weeks, and keep it in 
a cool place. At the end of two weeks, roll the beef tightly 
in a coarse cloth, and hang it in wood smoke for ten days, 
turning it bottom up every day ; it will then be ready to 
shave and use as smoked beef, or to boil and slice when 
cold ; or, cook it like frizzled ham. 

HOW TO CURE HAMS. 

To twenty-five pounds of meat, — the hams to be weighed 
after they are trimmed, — allow three pints of coarse salt, 
four ounces of saltpetre, and a quart of molasses ; mix these 
ingredients thoroughly without boiling them, adding enough 
cold water to cover the hams ; pack the hams in a barrel, 
pour the brine over them, weight them with a stone to keep 
them down, and cover the barrel. At the end of every 
week change them, putting the top ones on the bottom ; 
let them stand in the brine for five weeks, and then smoke 
them for three weeks in the smoke of burning sawdust and 
corn-cobs, or green hickory or maple. The same brine 
may be used again by adding more salt to it. A boiled 
brine may be made by boiling and skimming clear three 
gallons of water, four and a half pounds of salt, a pound and 
a half of brown sugar, an ounce and a half of saltpetre, half 
an ounce of saleratus, and two quarts of molasses ; after the 
brine is skimmed quite clear, cool it, and then pour it over 
e meat. After the hams are smoked, they should be 
rapped in stiff brown paper, and then sewed up in thick 
cloth. They can be hung in a cool dry place, or packed in 
barrels with layers of coarse dry salt, powdered charcoal, 
or clean wood ashes. The salt packing is the best for 
warm weather. The hams may be thickly sprinkled with 
ground pepper, tied closely in sacks, and then hung in a 
cool dark place, when the weather is cool. 



REMOVES {RELEV£s). 331 



HAM COOKED IN CIDER. 

Soak a ham over night in sufficient cold water to entirely 
cover it ; the next morning trim it neatly, put it over the 
fire in enough cold water to cover it, with one pint of cider 
and half a cupful of brown sugar ; cover the kettle, and boil 
the ham slowly for four hours, or until the skin peels off 
easily. When the ham is cooked enough, take it out of the 
water in which it was boiled, remove the skin, and lay the 
ham in a dripping-pan ; pour into the dripping-pan a pint 
of cider, sprinkle the ham plentifully with brown sugar, and 
place it in a moderate oven to bake one hour ; every fifteen 
minutes baste the ham with the cider in the pan. When 
the ham is cooked, take it from the dripping-pan, free the 
cider in the pan from grease, season it lightly with pepper, 
and use it as a sauce for the ham, which may be served 
either hot or cold. 

PLAIN BOILED HAM. 

Soak the ham over night in cold water, and then boil it 
in enough water to cover it, with a dried red pepper, or 
a teaspoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns, boiling 
it twenty minutes to a pound ; after the ham is done, 
remove the skin, and serve it hot, or let it cool in the water 
in which it was boiled. Cooks usually put little spots of 
pepper on the fat of the ham after skinning it. 

BAKED OR ROAST HAM. 

After a ham has been boiled and skinned as directed 
above, dust it with bread or cracker crumbs, and quickly 
brown it in a hot oven : serve it either hot or cold. A glass 
of madeira is a popular addition to the gravy or sauce 
of roast ham. 



332 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOK'ERY. 

TO SMOKE A MUTTON HAM. 

Trim a good leg of mutton in the form of a ham, and let 
it hang for two days. Heat in a thick saucepan half a 
pound each of rock, and table salt and brown sugar, and two 
ounces of powdered saltpetre. When all these ingredients 
are thoroughly warm, rub them well into the ham, and place 
it in a wooden or earthen vessel, and let it stand for four 
days, turning it every day. The fourth day, rub a handful of 
dry salt over the ham, and let it stand for two days longer ; 
then dry it, and hang it in a wood smoke for a week. 

BOILED MUTTON HAM. 

After the mutton ham has been prepared, as directed in 
the recipe for smoking it, wash it in cold water, ^d soak it 
over night in enough cold water to cover it. The next day 
drain it, put it over the fire in enough cold water to cover it, 
let the water heat to the boiling-point, and then boil the 
ham gently twenty minutes to a pound. Half an hour be- 
fore the ham is done, boil with it half a dozen turnips 
peeled, or a head of cabbage first washed in cold water, if 
either of these vegetables is desired to serve with the ham. 
Or serve it simply with a dish of plain boiled potatoes. 

NEW-ENGLAND SALT PORK. 

After the carcass is freed from bristles, which is done by 
scalding it and then scraping them off, it is to be cut up for 
curing. The shoulders are usually corned for about a week, 
and then either boiled or baked ; the hams are first cured 
with brown sugar or molasses and salt, and then smoked ; 
the head and feet are made into souse ; the loins, tender- 
loins, spare-ribs, and neck are generally cooked while they 
are fresh. When the pig is large, only part of the head is 
made into souse, the cheeks being salted or made into 



REMOVES {RELEV^S). 333 

brawn ; the fat sides, cut close off at the loins, and including 
the belly, are salted in brine, or cured as bacon ; the inner 
fat, which lies about the intestines, is tried out as lard ; the 
edible entrails are cooked fresh, usually by frying or boil- 
ing; the outer casings of the intestines are thoroughly 
cleaned, and used in making sausages and black puddings ; 
the latter are made from the blood boiled with oatmeal or 
Indian meal and seasonings, and cased with the larger intes- 
tines ; sausages are made from the leaner trimmings of the 
carcass, seasoned highly and cased in the smaller intestines. 
After the sides and belly are cut in pieces of the desired 
size, they are packed in kegs or barrels with plenty of salt, 
and covered with cold water; about a bushel of salt is 
allowed to a barrelful of pork ; a heavy stone is laid on the 
pork to keep it under the brine. If all the salt is dissolved 
in two or three days, more is to be added ; there should 
always be a little more salt than the water will dissolve ; in 
about six weeks the pork will be sufficiently salted to use. 

HOW TO TRY OUT LARD. 

To prepare lard at home, use very clean, fresh, white-look- 
ing "leaves" of fresh pork fat; cut the fat in pieces a little 
less than an inch square, removing any membranes or small 
veins which may be apparent. Place a large iron pot over 
a very genUe fire, put into it half a pint of cold water, then 
put in the chopped fat ; let it heat gradually, and boil slowly 
but steadily for about three hours, stirring it occasionally to 
prevent sticking. While it is necessary to keep the lard 
boiling constantly, care must be taken that the fire is not too 
hot, lest the fat boil over and burn. As the fat boils, and 
the water evaporates, it will gradually lose its cloudy appear- 
ance and become transparent. When the fat no longer 
bubbles, and the pieces of fat or " scraps " are yellowish 
brown, and begin to cake together, the lard is sufficiently 



334 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

cooked. Set the pot off the fire, and let the lard cool a lit- 
tle \ then use a large ladle to dip the liquid lard into per- 
fectly tight wooden kegs, earthen jars, or tin pails ; be careful 
that no particle of " scraps " is dipped out with the lard ; 
and when it has nearly all been removed from the " scraps," 
lay a folded towel in a large sieve, set the sieve over an 
earthen bowl, pour the remaining lard and " scraps " into 
the sieve, and let them drain without pressing. Keep the 
lard which drains from the " scraps " separate from the 
other, and use it first. 

The " scraps " are good served with hot baked or boiled 
potatoes. They are also used in the South for making 
Indian bread, under the name of crackling bread. 

BOILED PORK AND PARSNEPS. 

Wash two or three pounds of salt pork in cold water, put 
it over the fire in sufficient cold water to cover it, let it 
slowly approach the boiling-point, and boil it for three 
hours. At the end of one or two hours, add to it half a 
dozen parsneps washed and scraped, and boil them with the 
pork until they are tender ; old, tough parsneps should be 
added at the end of one hour ; young, tender ones, at the 
end of two hours. When both pork and parsneps are tender, 
take them out of the saucepan in which they were boiled, 
and wipe it quite dry ; cut the pork in half-inch slices, 
put it again into the saucepan, and brown it quickly over 
the fire. Meantime, slice the parsneps, and brown them 
with the pork. Season both palatably with salt and pepper, 
and serve them hot on the same dish. 

OLD NEW- YORK STYLE OF CURING BACON. 

After the sides of pork are cut and trimmed, rub each one 
thickly with salt, lay them on an inclined board, and let 
them remain for twenty-four hours ; then for each side of 



REMOVES {relev^s). 335 

pork use the following ingredients mixed well together : 
half a pound each of brown sugar and salt, and one ounce 
of powdered saltpetre. Rub this mixture well into the 
bacon, and turn it every day for two weeks (of course this 
curing must take place in cool weather) ; after the bacon lias 
been salted for two weeks, smoke it for ten days, according 
to the directions given for smoking meats. This quantity 
of salting mixture is calculated for very large sides of pork. 

BOILED BACON AND CABBAGE. 

Wash and scrape a piece of bacon, or "middhng," put 
it over the fire in cold water enough to cover it, and boil it 
gently half an hour to a pound. While the bacon is boiling, 
carefully trim a cabbage, cut it in quarters, and cut out the 
stalk, and leave it in a pan of cold salted water until wanted ; 
about half an hour before dinner, put the cabbage into the 
pot with the bacon, and boil it fast until the stalk is just 
tender. When the cabbage is tender, which will be in about 
half an hour, take it up in a colander, press it to extract all 
the water, lay it on a dish, put the boiled bacon on it, and 
serve the dish at once. The old-fashioned way of boiling 
cabbage for an hour or longer is quite unnecessary. 

BOAR'S HEAD. 

Thoroughly cleanse a head, removing the hair, as from 
pork for curing, the eyes, teeth, and as many bones as pos- 
sible, saving the tusks. After washing the head in plenty 
of cold water, pour boiling water over it, and then put it 
into a tub with enough equally mixed vinegar and cold 
water to cover it ; add a cupful of salt, a tablespoonful each 
of whole cloves, mace, pepper, sage-leaves, bay-leaves, and 
chopped onion. Put the tongue with the head, and two 
pounds of boar's meat. Let the head stand in this pickle 
for three days, then drain it ; use the meat and tongue to 



336 



PRACTICAL A MEN /CAM COOKERY. 



replace the bones, sew the head in shape, roll it in a cloth, 
and put it into a large boiler with boiling water enough to 
cover it, a pint of sherry or madeira, a heaping tablespoon- 
ful of salt, a carrot, a turnip, and an onion peeled and sliced, 




Boar's Head, Untrimmed. 



a lemon sliced, and a bouquet of herbs. Let the head boil 
slowly for six hours, removing all scum that rises, and keeg- 
ing it well covered. When the head is done, let it cool in 
the water it has been boiled in ; then glaze and garnish it ; 




Boar's Head, Garnished. 



replace the tusks ; make eyes of the round end of the white 
of hard-boiled eggs and a bit of red beet for the pupil; 
garnish the dish, and serve it cold. Or garnish and decorate 
it more elaborately, as shown in the accompanying engrav- 



REMOVES {RELEVES). 337 

ing, which represents a boar's head garnished with holly and 
aspic jelly, as a Christmas dish. 

A NEW-ENGLAND BOILED DINNER. 

Select a thick piece of corned beef from the round, 
weighing about six pounds ; wash it in cold water, and put 
it over the fire in a large pot, with sufficient cold water to 
cover it three or four inches ; set the pot where its contents 
will slowly reach the boiling-point, and boil very gently for 
four hours from the time it is first placed on the fire. After 
the meat is put to cook, wash four large beets very carefully, 
without breaking the skin or cutting off the stalks or roots, 
and put them over the fire to boil in another pot, in plenty 
of actually boiling water. Then peel four large white turnips 
and one large yellow turnip ; cut the latter in four pieces ; 
scrape four carrots and four parsneps ; peel a dozen medium- 
sized potatoes ; trim and wash a firm head of white cabbage, 
cut its stalk out without breaking the leaves apart, and bind 
it with broad tape to keep it whole while cooking. As fast 
as the vegetables are prepared, lay them in plenty of cold 
water until they are needed for cooking. If onions are used, 
they should be boiled in a separate saucepan. Some fami- 
lies like a dish of boiled squash mashed with pepper, salt, 
and butter, served as part of a boiled dinner ; in the fall and 
winter, pumpkin is often used like the squash. 

When the meat begins to . boil, the scum which rises to 
the surface of the pot-liquor should be carefully skimmed 
off, and a medium-sized red or green pepper put into the 
pot. As already indicated, the pot must be large enough 
to hold both meat and vegetables ; the vegetables, except 
the beets and onions, are to be added to the meat in proper 
succession, allowing sufficient time for each kind to cook. 
The carrots, parsneps, and turnips will boil in about two 
hours ; the cabbage and onions, in one hour ; the potatoes, 



338 rRAcrrcAL a.ver/caiv cookery. 

squash, and pumpkin, in about half an hour. The beets will 
boil in from two to four hours, according to their size ; they 
are to be taken up when tender, their skins are to be rubbed 
off with a wet towel, and then they are to be sliced and 
covered with vinegar. They are generally served cold ; but 
if they are liked hot, they can be heated at dinner-time, with 
a little salt, pepper, and butter. 

When the boiled dinner is cooked, the meat is placed in 
the middle of a large platter, and the vegetables, with the 
exception of those specified for separate serving, are arranged 
around it. A piece of salt pork is sometimes boiled with 
the beef. 

CORNED BEEF BRISKET. 

Choose about seven pounds of the navel end of the 
brisket of corned beef; wash it well in plenty of cold water ; 
put it over the fire in a large pot containing sufificient cold 
water to cover the beef, and let it slowly approach the boil- 
ing pohit, removing all scum as it rises. The beef can either 
be left flat, or the bones be taken out and a compact roll 
be made of it, secured by a string. Boil the beef steadily 
and gently for four hours after it begins to boil ; it may then 
be served hot, or may be pressed until cold before it is 
used. 

Cabbage is usually served with corned beef; cooked ac- 
cording to directions given among the vegetable recipes, it 
is excellent ; or it may be boiled with the beef, only it 
should not be boiled longer than just time enough to make 
it tender, which is less than half an hour usually. 

MUSTARD SAUCE. 

Mustard sauce made as follows is good with the beef: — 
After the beef has been boiling for two hours, take a pint 
of the broth from it to use for sauce. Peel and chop a 
bunch of chives, a shallot, or two or three small green 



REMOVES {RELEVlls). 339 

onions, and put them over the fire in a pint of broth to boil 
for half an hour ; then add a level tablespoonful of dry 
mustard, a gill of vinegar, and a high seasoning of salt and 
pepper ; stir the sauce until it is thoroughly incorporated, 
and then keej) it hot until it is required for the beef. 

BEEF'S HEART, CORNED. 

After washing and trimming a beef's heart, soak it for two 
days in a brine made as follows : Dissolve salt in cold water 
until an egg will float on its surface, then place this brine 
over the fire, let it boil once, skim it clear, and then cool it. 
Pour the cold brine over the heart, and let it stand for two 
days covered from the light and air. Wash the heait in 
cold water, put it over the fire with enough more cold water 
to cover it, and a red pepper or a teaspoonful of pepper- 
corns, and boil it gently for about three hours, or until it is 
quite tender, cooking it very slowly and steadily. After 
putting the heart to boil, carefully wash six medium-sized 
beets, without closely trimming their roots or stalks, and 
put them over the fire in a large pot of boiling water without 
salt ; boil them steadily for three hours, and then skim them 
by rubbing them in a wet cloth, and keep them hot in a 
covered dish near the fire, dressing them with a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and a dust of cayenne- 
pepper. Half an hour before the heart is done, peel a quart 
of potatoes, and boil them in salted boiling water until they 
are tender enough to pierce with a fork ; then drain the 
water off them, cover them with a folded towel to retain 
the steam, and place the saucepan containing them on the 
back of the stove to keep them warm until the heart is 
done. 

When the heart is cooked, put it on a hot platter, arrange 
the beets and potatoes around it, and serve it hot. 



340 I'KACTICAf. A,V/':h'/C/LV COOKERY. 

PICKLED BEEF'S TONGUES. 

Cut off the roots of the tongues, leaving on some of the 
fat ; sprinkle them all over thickly with salt, and let them 
lie on a slanted board over night to drain ; mix together a 
cupful each of brown sugar and salt, a heaping tablespoonful 
of powdered saltpetre, and a tablespoonful each of ground 
pepper, cloves, allspice, and mace, for two tongues ; rub 
this mixture well over the tongues ; put them in a pickling- 
tub, and let them stand in a cool place for ten or twelve 
days, turning them every day in the pickle. After that 
time they may be dried, or smoked, or cooked as soon as 
wanted. 

BOILED TONGUE. 

Wash a pickled tongue, put it into enough cold water to 
cover it, and let it soak over night ; the next morning wash 
it, put it over tlie fire in enough fresh cold water to cover it, 
and boil it gently until it is very tender ; then remove the skin, 
and serve the tongue hot, with any sharp sauce and boiled 
green vegetables, or with pickled beets or red cabbage. If 
the tongue is to be served cold, return it to the liquor in 
which it was boiled, after skimming it, and let it cool there ; 
this will make it very tender and juicy. 

BAKED TONGUE. 

Boil the tongue as directed in the preceding recipe, and 
after the skin is removed dust it with bread or cracker 
crumbs, and brown it in a hot oven. 

BOILED TURKEY WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 

Choose a tender hen turkey weighing about seven pounds. 
Have it carefully plucked, singed, and wiped with a wet 
towel ; cut off the head and feet, draw it without breaking 
the intestines ; either stuff it with equal quantities of stale 



REMOVES {RELEVEs). 34 1 

bread and oysters, seasoned with salt and pepper, or truss it 
unstuffed ; put it over the fire in sufficient boiHng water to 
cover it, remove all scum as it rises, and boil the turkey 
gently for about two hours, or until it is tender. While the 
turkey is being boiled, carefully remove all bits of shell from 
a quart of medium-sized oysters, and strain their liquor. 

OYSTER SAUCE. 

When the turkey is nearly done, put in a saucepan over 
the fire, two level tablespoonfuls of flour, and two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and stir them together until they 
bubble ; then gradually stir in the oyster-liquor and enough 
broth from the turkey to make a sauce of the consistency 
of cream ; season it palatably with salt and white pepper, 
and let it boil for a moment ; put the saucepan containing 
the sauce into a pan of hot water, and place it on the back 
of the fire to keep hot until just before dishing the turkey ; 
then put in the oysters, and let them boil once ; meantime 
dish the turkey, remove the trussing-cords, pour a little of 
the oyster-sauce over it, and serve it with the rest of the 
sauce in a boat. 

BOILED TURKEY WITH CELERY SAUCE. 

Dress the turkey as directed in the preceding recipe, 
substituting celery, washed and chopped, for the oysters, 
both in the stuffing and in the sauce, and taking care that 
the celery used for the sauce is very white and tender. 

BOILED CHICKEN. 

Carefully pluck and draw a tender chicken, singe it, wipe 
it with a wet towel, cut off the head and feet, and truss it 
for boiling ; put the chicken over the fire in sufficient water 
to cover it, with a level tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoon- 
ful of peppercorns or a small red pepper. Boil the chicken 



342 PRACTICAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

until it is tender, then serve it with the cream onion sauce. 
A fowl boiled very gently for about four hours, or until it 
is tender, and served with cream onion sauce, makes an 
economical and palatable dish. The chicken or fowl may 
be boiled until nearly tender enough to serve, then taken 
from the broth, put into a saucepan with the onion sauce, 
and the cooking finished in this way. 

CREAM ONION SAUCE. 

Peel and slice a pint of onions, put them over the fire in 
a clean saucepan with enough milk to cover them, and stew 
them until tender ; when the onions are tender, beat them 
to a pulp with a fork, add to them a palatable seasoning of 
salt and white pepper ; add sufficient milk to form a sauce 
of the consistency of cream, and a heaping tablespoonful of 
butter ; use this sauce with boiled chicken. 

HOW TO PRESERVE BAKED AND ROASTED MEATS. 

At changing seasons, when the temperature is so variable, 
the keeping of meat becomes an important question to the 
housekeeper. There can be no better method than that em- 
ployed by the old Pennsylvania Dutch housewives, when an 
animal was killed on the farm. After the portions of carcass 
suitable for salting were selected, and those chosen for imme- 
diate use set aside, the remainder was cut up in joints of 
available size, and either baked or roasted to the desired 
point, — rare, medium rare, or well done ; stone jars or 
wooden tubs were selected to correspond with the size of the 
joints, a margin of about two inches in all directions being 
allowed. While the joints were being cooked, a large kettle 
of lard or drippings was melted, ^^"hen the carcass was of 
pork, lard was made from the leaf; when of any other meat, 
the suet was rendered. When the joints were cooked, each 
one was put into its jar or firkin, with a reversed plate in the 



REMOVES {RELEV£s). 343 

bottom to keep the meat from resting against it, and then 
the hot fat was poured around and over the meat ; when the 
fat cools, it entirely excludes the air, and if the jars are cov- 
ered and kept in a cool place, the meat will keep for several 
months. When required for use, the meat is to be taken 
out of the fat, and quickly heated and served. The fat can 
then be clarified by melting it in a kettle of water, and allow- 
ing it to cool in a cake on the surface of the water ; when 
the fat is cold, the sediment of the under side of the cake 
can be scraped off, and the lard or dripping will then be 
ready to use. The fat does not need clarifying if care is 
taken to separate from the rest that portion which has imme- 
diately surrounded the meat ; this brown part of the fat can 
be used in making gravy for the meat. 



CHAPTER VII. 

ROASTS {Rotis). 

THE roasts proper are given in this chapter, and also 
those dishes of birds and game which sometimes re- 
place the roasts, and are more suitable for a dinner of sev- 
eral courses than the large joints of roast meat. The baked 
meats are given among the removes, together with the large 
boiled joints, and the boiled poultry. The smaller dishes of 
broiled, fried, and stewed meats are given among the entrees, 
together with some of the smaller baked meats. The roasts 
should always be accompanied by some kind of green salad, 
if it is obtainable, because it greatly enhances the flavor of 
the meat. \\'hen wine is served with the roast, it may be 
either champagne or Burgundy. Sometimes the salad im- 
mediately follows tlie roast, and in that case it should be 
accompanied by some form of cheese. 

ROAST BEEF. 

Roast beef can be prepared before an ordinary range or 
cooking-stove by using a tin case, open on the side towards 
the fire, called a Dutch oven ; any large box of tin bright 
enough to reflect the heat will serve for this purpose, if it 
has a bottom tight enough to retain the drippings from the 
meat. The regular Dutch oven is provided with a hook, 
upon which the meat is hung ; if it has to be otherwise sup- 
ported, the best method is by a rack, which will raise the 
meat to about the middle of the oven, where the heat is 

344 



FOASTS {rotis). 345 

the most regular. Wipe the beef with a wet towel after it has 
been trimmed by the butcher, suspend it in the Dutch oven, 
and place it before the fire where it will brown quickly; 
after it is brown, season it with salt and pepper ; if a frothed 
surface is desired, dust the beef with dry flour, and then 
moisten it with drippings every fifteen minutes, after it is 
brown ; allow fifteen minutes J;o a pound for roasting beef 
medium rare before a hot fire. When the beef is done, put 
it on a hot platter, and quickly make the gravy as follows, 
or do this before taking up the beef. Put over the fire in a 
frying-pan, dripping-pan, or saucepan, two tablespoonfuls of 
beef-drippings, and one of dry flour, and stir them until they 
are brown ; then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; let the gravy so 
made boil for one minute, and then serve it with the beef. 

ROAST LAMB WITH SORREL-SAUCE. 

Have the bone cut from a shoulder of lamb without man- 
gling it ; replace the bone with crumbs -of bread, highly sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, and sew or tie the lamb so as to 
enclose the crumbs ; put the lamb upon a spit, or into a pan 
just large enough to hold it, and either roast it before a hot 
fire, or bake it in a very hot oven. When the meat is brown, 
season it with salt and pepper, and cook it to the required 
degree ; about fifteen minutes to a pound will cook it 
medium well done. While the lamb is being cooked, pre- 
pare some sorrel-sauce as follows, and when the meat is done, 
remove the strings, and serve it on the sorrel-sauce. 

SORREL-SAUCE. 

For this sauce, either the large-leaved field-sorrel, or the 
small trefoil of the wood-sorrel, may be used. Thoroughly 
wash the herb, and put it over the fire in an earthen or porce- 
lain-lined saucepan, with only the water which remains upon 



346 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



it after It is washed, and a tablespoonful of butter to each 
pint of sorrel ; cover the saucepan, and cook the sorrel until 
it is tender enough to beat to a pulp with a fork ; then sea- 
son it palatably with salt and pepper, add to it enough 
butter to make it semi-liciuid, and serve it on the dish with 
the lamb. Another form of sorrel-sauce is made by mixing 
smoothly over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour, then stirring with them a pint of boiling water, a cup- 
ful of boiled sorrel-pulp, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pepper. 

HIND- QUARTER OF LAMB. 

The hind-quarter of lamb, which is cut for marketing as 
shown in the annexed picture, is rather larger than the fore- 







Hind-Quarter of Lamb. 

quarter, and always more expensive. It is cooked and 
served as directed in the recipe for roast lamb. 



ROAST LAMB. 

After a quarter of lamb is trimmed, wipe it with a wet 
towel, put it in front of the fire, or in a very hot oven, and 
brown it quickly ; after it is brown, season it with salt and 
pepper, dust it with flour, and baste it with the drippings 
every fifteen minutes, if a frothed surface is desired ; allow 
the lamb to cook about twenty minutes to a pound. Serve 



ROASTS (A'or/s). 347 

the lamb with gravy made by browning together two table- 
spoonfuls of its drippings, and one of dry flour, and then 
stirring with them a pint of boiling water, and a palatable 
seasoning of salt and pepper ; as soon as the gravy boils, 
serve it. Mint-sauce may be served with roast lamb, made 
by mixing together a cupful each of vinegar and sugar, and 
half a cupful of chopped green mint. 

SADDLE OF LAMB ROASTED. 

The saddle of Iamb is simply the two loins cut off before 
the carcass is split open down the back ; it is best when 
roasted before an open fire, but it may be nicely cooked in 
a very hot oven. If it is of medium size, it will cook in an 
hour and a half; but if it is large, it will require nearly two 
hours. It is first to be exposed to intense heat until it is 
browned ; then it is to be seasoned with salt and pepper, and 
every fifteen minutes to be basted with the drippings which 
fall from it. About half an hour before the loin is done, 
make the sauce as follows ; and when the lamb is cooked, 
dish it on a hot platter, and serve the cucumber sauce in a 
gravy-boat with it. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE. 

Peel two large cucumbers, cut them in thin slices, and let 
them fall into salted cold water ; peel and slice one medium- 
sized onion, put it into a saucepan with the cucumbers, and 
enough broth or gravy to cover them, and let them stew for 
fifteen minutes ; then season the sauce highly with salt and 
pepper, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar, and 
use it with roast lamb. 

SADDLE OF MUTTON. 

The saddle of mutton is the double loin, cut before the 
carcass is split open, and trimmed as shown in the annexed 



348 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



cut. After the saddle is so prepared, it is roasted or Ijaked, 
according to the directions given elsewhere, and then served 
hot, with currant-jelly. There is no better or more whole- 




Saddle of Mutton. 

some meat than a prime saddle of mutton, which has been 
hung long enough to become tender. 

Directions are given in the chapter on Carving, for car\'ing 
the saddle at table. 

BEAR MEAT. 

Bear-meat in good condition is not unlike beef, and it 
may be cooked in the same way. 

BUFFALO. 

Like bear-meat, buffalo resembles beef, when it is in prime 
condition. The flesh is darker than beef, and the fat has a 
reddish color ; the heart, liver, and marrow are like those of 
beef; the latter is delicious; the tongue, and flesh of the 
hum]), are the choice portions ; buffalo-meat may be cooked 
like beef, and should be rather well done. 



BROILED venison: 

Cut venison into steaks about half an inch thick, broil 
it over a very hot fire, on a buttered gridiron, for four min- 
utes on each side. While the venison is being broiled, melt 



m 



ROASTS (A'6r/s). 349 

on a dish before the fire, or in tlie oven, equal parts of 
curiant-jelly and butter, a tablespoonful of each to a pound 
of venison, and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; 
put the venison on this dish when it is broiled, turn it over 
once, and then serve it hot. 

FRIED VENISON. 

Put a thick slice of venison in the frying-pan with two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and brown it quickly on both 
sides ; season it with salt and pepper, add two tablespoon- 
fuls of currant-jelly, and finish cooking the venison to the 
desired degree ; then serve it, with the gravy it yields 
poured over it. 

BAKED SADDLE OF VENISON. 

The saddle of venison is the double loin. Have the ribs 
cut off close to use for soup, stew, or pastry ; wipe all the 
hairs off with a soft cloth wet with warm water ; tie thickly 
buttered paper over the upper part of the saddle, and lay 
it on a rack in a baking-pan ; quickly brown the joint in 
a hot oven ; then remove the paper, season the venison 
with salt and pepper ; put into the dripping-pan half a cup- 
ful each of butter, boiling water, and currant-jelly, and baste 
the venison with this sauce until it is entirely brown ; then 
serve it hot, at once, with the sauce in a gravy-boat. 

ROAST VENISON. 

The loin, saddle, haunch, or shoulder of venison may be 
roasted. After the piece has been carefully trimmed, and 
freed from hairs, wipe it with a wet towel, season it with 
salt and pepper, cover it with several thicknesses of buttered 
paper, or with a paste made of flour and water, to retain 
its juice ; put the venison before the fire, and roast it 
twenty minutes to a pound ; then take off the paper or 
paste, and quickly brown the venison. If a frothed appear- 



350 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ance is desired, dredge the venison with flour, and baste it 
with butter, before browning it. Serve the roast venison 
very hot, with currant-jelly. 

LARDED SADDLE OF VENISON. 

After a safldle of venison has been trimmed, wipe it with 
a wet cloth to remove all hairs ; lard it according to the 
directions given for larding fricandeaux of veal ; cover the 
lardoons with several thicknesses of buttered paper, and 
then roast or bake the venison according to the directions 
given for cooking this game, and serve it hot, with currant- 
jelly and any good venison sauce, recipes for which are 
given elsewhere. 

A larded saddle of venison is illustrated in the chapter on 
Carving. 

SHOULDER OF VENISON LARDED. 

Bone and stuff a shoulder of venison, according to the 
directions given in any of the recipes for forcemeats. Lard 
it, and either roast or bake it, protecting the lardoons with 
several thicknesses of buttered paper ; if the meat is basted 
while it is being cooked, take care not to baste the larded 
part, because that would soften the lardoons. When the 
venison is nearly done, season it with salt and cayenne, 
remove the buttered paper, brown the lardoons, and then 
remove the strings used to confine the stuffing, and serve 
the venison hot, with currant-jelly, or any of the sauces 
given for venison. 

This dish is illustrated in the chapter on Carving. 

HOW TO SKIN RABBITS, HARES, AND SQUIRRELS. 

Cut the skin of all the legs in a circle around the joint 
nearest the feet, and cut off the fore-feet ; then cut the skin 
off the hind-legs, inside the legs, from the feet to the tail ; 
loosen the skin, and turn it back until it is quite removed 
from the hind-legs ; next, tie the hind-legs together, and 



ROASTS {HOTIS). 35 1 

hang the carcass up by them ; now pull the skin downward 
toward the head, slipping out the fore-legs when they are 
reached ; when the neck is reached, either cut off the head 
with the skin attached to it, or leave it on the body, and 
continue to pull the skin downward until the nose is reached ; 
cut off the end of the nose. As the head is considered a 
delicacy by some persons, it is generally cooked with the 
rest of the carcass. After the skin has been removed, the 
carcass should be carefully wiped with a wet cloth to re- 
move any hairs which may adhere to it ; the entrails should 
then be removed, the blood, and the liver, heart, and 
kidneys being saved ; the inside of the carcass should be 
washed with a cupful of vinegar, which is to be used with 
the blood for making whatever sauce or gravy is to be 
served with the game. The liver, heart, and kidneys are 
either cooked whole, or chopped very fine and mixed with 
the gravy. 

HARE BARBED AND ROASTED. 

After the hare has been dressed, as directed in the recipe 
for skinning hares and rabbits, bard it with a large slice of 
fat salt pork, as shown in the engraving of barded hare, and 
roast it on a spit before a hot fire, seasoning it with salt 
and pepper. A tender hare will roast in about an hour. 
The blood of the hare, and the drippings, will make a good 
brown gravy. Cleanse and chop the liver and heart, and 
stew them in the blood, together with a little vinegar and 
water; when they are tender, season the sauce with salt 
and cayenne, thicken it with a little of the drippings and 
flour browned together, and then serve it with the roast 
hare, sending currant-jelly to the table with it. 

HARE LARDED AND BAKED. 

After a young hare is dressed, lard it all over the middle 
of the back, just as other meats are larded ; cover the 



352 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

larded portion with buttered or oiled paper to prevent 
burning, removing the paper long enough to permit the 
lardoons to brown when the hare is done ; and serve it 
like roast hare, with brown gravy and currant-jelly. 

An illustration of larded hare is given in the chapter on 
Carving. 

Rabbits and large squirrels may be roasted and baked. 

ORTOLANS, OR SNOW-BUNTINGS. 

These birds are said, in the current market report, to 
have been caught, of late years, in the Jersey meadows. 
They are properly in season in the early spring ; but, like 
their kindred the reed-birds, they are often seen at different 
seasons in different localities. Any of the recipes given for 
reed-birds will serve for cooking ortolans : another is given 
below. Like all buntings, ortolans have a delicate flesh of 
delicious flavor, and when fat almost melt in the mouth. 
As the flesh of ortolans bruises easily, they should be care- 
fully handled. The best method of cooking them is broil- 
ing, although any of the recipes given for cooking small 
birds will answer for cooking ortolans. 

BROILED ORTOLANS. 

Rub with melted butter or salad-oil as many sheets of 
white note-paper as there are birds, and cut them just large 
enough to double over the birds, and turn in all around the 
edges like a hem, as shown in the illustration of chops 
broiled in paper, in order to preserve the fat and the trail 
while the birds are being cooked. 

Carefully pluck and singe the birds ; cut off the beaks and 
claws, skin the heads and necks, wipe them with a clean 
cloth, twist the feet, and lay the heads close to the sides of 
the birds, and then enclose the birds in the oiled paper ; or, 
instead of the sheets of i)aper, use the small paper cases 



ROASTS (A'or/s). 353 

made by the confectioners, after dipping them in oil. After 
the birds are enclosed in the paper, or laid in the cases, put 
them on a gridiron, over a very gentle fire, and broil them 
for about five minutes, or until they swim in their own fat ; 
then serve them at once in the papers, which are removed 
upon the plate just before eating the birds. 

Epicures take the birds by the legs, and bite them in 
mouthfuls, beginning at the head. The bones are so small 
and tender that they can be eaten. Some persons cut the 
birds in quarters before eating, and do not eat the gizzards ; 
the trail is always eaten. 

FRIED REED-BIRDS.^ 

Pluck and dress the birds, splitting them domi the back ; 
season them rather highly with salt and pepper ; roll them 
in flour, Indian meal, or sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and 
fry them brown in butter and lard equally mixed, and made 
smoking hot before the birds are put into it : or, dress them, 
and split, season, and fry them without breading or flouring 
them. They must be served very hot, as soon as they are 
brown. 

BROILED REED-BIRDS. 

After dressing the reed-birds without splitting them, put 
an oyster in each one, season them with salt and pepper, 
and quickly broil them over a hot fire for about five minutes, 
and serve them hot at once. 

WOODCOCK ON TOAST. 

After the birds are plucked, skin the heads, wash the bills 
and feet, and cut off" the claws ; twist the legs, and run the 
bills through the sides of the birds as shown in the accom- 

' When it is necessary to keep reed-birds hot after cooking them, they should be 
placed in a covered tin pail set in boiling water; but, if possible, they should be served 
as soon as they are cooked. 



354 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

panying picture, and either roast or bake them. Put under 
the birds, while they are being cooked, neatly cut slices of 
bread to catch the drippings. When the woodcock are 





i;;,'-' ^'i 




^^^ <^^^^^^^m& 


^m^ 


'^^ms^^^sM^^^^ 




Woodcock on Toast. 



brown, season them with salt and pepper ; and when they 
are done, serve them on the toast, with some watercress 
or a little parsley and lemon on the dish with them. 

FRIED WOODCOCK. 

Dress the birds as directed in the preceding recipe ; have 
ready a frying-kettle half full of smoking-hot fat, and as 
many slices of bread as there are birds. Trim the crust 
from the bread, and toast it delicately while the woodcock 
are being fried ; plunge the birds into the hot fat, fry them 
a delicate brown, then sprinkle them with salt, and serve 
them on the toast. 

SNIPE FRIED IN OIL. 

Until within a few years, there prevailed among American 
housekeepers an unfounded prejudice against the use of 
olive-oil in cooking. As a matter of fact, there is no cleaner 
fat than pure olive-oil. In warm weather a good oil is pref- 
erable to butter or lard for frying ; rancid oil should never 
be used. To fry any substance in oil, put the oil over the 
fire in a small, deep frying-kettle, so that a comparatively 
small quantity will suffice to cover the article which is to 
be fried ; and when a thin bluish smoke begins to rise from 
the oil, it will be found to be hot enough for frying. To 
prepare snipe for frying, remove all the feathers, and draw 



ROASTS {not/s). 355 

the birds, wipe them all over with a wet towel, cut off the 
claws, and twist the legs together ; either roll the birds in 
flour or Indian meal seasoned with salt and pepper, or bread 
them by dipping them first in fine crumbs, then in beaten 
egg, and again in crumbs ; or put them into the hot oil with- 
out any foreign substance on them. When the birds are 
crisp and light brown, they are done. Care must be taken 
not to cook them slowly and long, for they will be dried 
and hardened by so doing. If the oil is smoking hot, about 
a couple of minutes will be long enough to fry the snipe ; 
when they are brown, lay them on brown paper for a few 
moments to free them from grease, and then serve them 
hot. A few cresses, or some sour oranges sliced and dressed 
with salad-oil and cayenne, will form a good garnish for the 
fried snipe. 

SNIPE BROILED WHOLE. 

Pluck and singe the birds, wipe them on a wet towel, 
dip them in butter which has been melted and seasoned 
with pepper and salt, place them over a hot fire, and broil 
them for three minutes on each side. This length of time 
will cook them medium rare ; about fifteen minutes over 
a hot fire will cook them thoroughly. Serve the birds as 
soon as they are done. 

ROAST PLOVER. 

Pluck the birds carefully ; cut off the claws, and twist the 
feet close to the body ; truss the head under one wing ; 
wipe the birds with a wet towel, tie a thin slice of fat salt 
pork or bacon over the breast of each one, and roast them 
on a spit before an open fire, with toast laid under them to 
catch the trail ; or lay them on slices of toast, and bake 
them in a hot oven. About fifteen minutes should be al- 
lowed for cooking them ; when they are done, put a little 
butter, pepper, and salt over them, and serve them hot. 



356 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

QUAIL BARBED AND ROASTED. 

After quail or any small birds are dressed, they can be 
barded by wrapping them in a thin slice of bacon or fat 
pork, as shown in the accompanying engraving, and then 




Uniall Birds Barciecl and Roasted. 

either roasted on a spit before the fire, or baked in the 
oven. When the birds are cooked, remove the strings used 
to confine the pork, and serve them on any green salad, or 
on toast. 

ROAST QUAIL. 

To prepare this dish successfully, a clear, hot, open fire is 
best ; but, in default, a very hot oven will finish them. 
Pluck, singe, and draw the birds, wipe them with a wet 
towel, and cut off the heads and feet ; wrap each bird in a 
slice of fat salt pork, and pack them closely in a saucepan 
just large enough to hold them ; season them highly with 
salt and cayenne, pour over them just enough boiling water 
to cover them, put the cover on the saucepan, and place it 
over a hot fire for five or ten minutes ; then take up the 
quail, remove the pork, wipe the birds on a clean towel, rub 
them all over with butter, and roast them brown before a 
very hot fire, or in a hot oven, basting them twice with more 
butter and the drippings from them. Meantime, strain the 
gravy in which they were stewed, and melt with it an equal 
quantity of currant-jelly for sauce, or use cold currant-jelly 
with them. Serve the birds hot directly they are brown. 



ROASTS {ROTIS). 357 



BAKED QUAIL. 

After quail are dressed, put them into a pan large enough 
to hold them, dust them over with flour, season them with 
salt and pepper, put a little butter on each one, and bake 
them for about twenty minutes ; when the quail are brown, 
take them up, and keep them hot ; put the dripping-pan in 
which they were baked over the fire, stir in a teaspoon ful of 
flour and about half a pint of water ; let the gravy thus made 
boil for a moment, and then serve it with the quail. 

BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 

Pluck, singe, and wipe the duck ; split it down the back, 
and remove the intestines ; put it between the bars of a 
buttered double gridiron, and broil it over a hot fire, leaving 
the inside turned to the fire for twelve minutes ; then turn 
the skin to the fire just long enough to brown it ; season the 
duck with salt and pepper, and serve it at once. The asser- 
tion that canvas-back ducks owe their delicious flavor to 
the wild celery upon which they feed, is open to question. 
The writer has eaten ducks killed in the marshes of the 
great Western lakes, and in the far North-western territories, 
in localities where there are no beds of wild celery growing ; 
and the flavor of the birds quite equalled that of those 
bagged at Havre de Grace. The flavor of the birds is best 
preserved by cooking them quickly by an intense fire, and 
serving them on very hot plates. The usual garnishes are 
currant-jelly, fried hominy, or celery. Sometimes a inayon- 
naise dressing is served with the celery. A recipe for this 
dressing is given elsewhere. The best canvas-back ducks 
are those which are heavy in proportion to their size, and 
have fiill bright eyes, and soft pliable feet. The birds deteri- 
orate with long keeping ; they should not be drawn until just 
before using them, and should never be washed. The more 



358 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

quickly they are cooked, the finer they will be ; and the hot 
platter for serving, and hot plates, should always be ready 
before the ducks are done. The ducks should never be 
overdone. 

ROAST CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 

After a canvas-back has been dressed, put it before a 
very hot fire, and quickly brown it ; let it cook twenty min- 
utes ; then season it with salt and pepper, and serve it hot, 
with celery and currant-jelly. 

CANVAS-BACK DUCK, PHILADELPHIA STYLE. 

Pluck, singe, and draw the duck, wipe it on a wet towel, 
truss the head under the wing, put the bird in a dripping- 
pan in a very hot oven, and bake it for half an hour. Have 
ready a lighted chafing-dish ; when the duck is done, transfer 
it quickly to the chafing-dish, season it with salt and pepper, 
pour over it the gravy which it has yielded in baking, and 
serve it at once. 

BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCK. DELMONICO STYLE. 

Dress the duck, split it down the back, rub salad-oil all 
over it, and season it with salt and pepper ; put it between 
the bars of a double gridiron, and broil it over a very hot 
fire for twelve minutes, first exposing the inside to the fire. 
While the bird is being broiled, melt two tablespoon fuls of 
butter by a very gentle heat ; mix with the butter a table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, a salt- 
spoonful of salt, and a very little pepper ; when the duck is 
broiled, lay it on a hot dish, pour the melted butter over it, 
and serve it hot at once. 

ROAST WILD DUCK. 

Pluck and singe the duck, wipe it with a wet towel, draw 
it carefiilly, and skewer the legs and wings in place. Put 



ROASTS {rot/s). 359 

into the duck a whole onion peeled, plenty of salt and pep- 
per, and a glass of claret, and lay it carefully in a dripping- 
pan just large enough to hold it. If the duck is of medium 
size, bake it in a hot oven, or roast it before the fire, for fif- 
teen minutes ; if large, let it cook twenty minutes ; serve it 
hot with the gravy it yields in cooking, and a dish of currant- 
jelly. 

FILETS OF WILD DUCK. WITH ORANGE-SAUCE. 

For this dish, use only the breast or Jikis of wild duck, 
either broiled or roasted rare. While they are being cooked, 
cut the rind of a Seville or bitter orange in small shreds, 
and squeeze the juice ; put the orange rind and juice into 
a saucepan with a gill of broth, and a glass of madeira, 
season the sauce palatably with salt and cayenne, simmer 
it for five minutes, and then serve it with the filers of wild 
duck. 

ROAST WIDGEON. 

Pluck and singe a pair of widgeons, cut off the heads and 
claws, draw the birds without breaking the entrails, and wipe 
them with a wet cloth ; rub them all over with cold butter, 
dredge them with flour, and either roast them before a hot 
fire for fifteen minutes, or bake them about twenty minutes. 
Carefully preserve all the gravy that flows from them ; when 
they are nearly done, dust them with salt and pepper; 
serve them hot directly they are done, with the gravy which 
flows from them, and currant-jelly, or with orange essence 
made as follows. 

ORANGE ESSENCE SAUCE. 

Chop very fine two peeled shallots or one onion ; grate 
the yellow rind of a large orange ; chop one ounce of ham 
or bacon very fine ; put these ingredients into a small sauce- 
pan, add to them a slight dust of cayenne-pepper, half a 
pint of the gravy from roast wild fowl, a gill of port-wine, 
and a saltspoonful of salt, and gently simmer the sauce for 



360 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ten minutes ; meantime squeeze the juice from a whole 
orange and half a lemon into a sauce-boat ; at the end of 
ten minutes, strain the sauce into the orange and lemon 
juice, and serve it at once. 

ROAST TEAL. 

Pluck and singe a pair of teal, wipe them with a wet 
towel, cut off the head and feet, and draw them without 
breaking the entrails ; put a tablespoonful of butter, a salt- 
spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper 
in each bird, and lay them in a dripping-pan ; peel an 
onion, and put it into the ]jan with the teal ; set the birds 
in a very hot oven, and bake them for twenty minutes, or 
roast them before the fire for fifteen minutes ; in either case, 
baste them every five minutes, adding more butter if it is 
required for basting. Just before serving the birds, season 
them with salt ; serve them with a sauce made as follows, 
while they are being cooked. 

ONION-SAUCE. 

Peel and chop fine a shallot or a small onion, put it over 
the fire with a tablespoonful of butter, and when the butter 
begins to brown, stir in a tablespoonful of flour ; when the 
flour is brown, add half a pint each of port-wine and boiling 
water, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful 
of pepper, and one grate of nutmeg ; stir the sauce until it 
boils, and then keep it hot ; when the birds are done, pour 
the drijipings from them into the sauce, mix them well with 
it, and then serve it hot. 

ROAST PRAIRIE CHICKENS OR GROUSE. 

Pluck and singe the birds, wipe them with a wet towel, 
draw them, season them inside with salt and pepper, put 
a tablespoonfiil of butter in each, and sew up the cuts at 



ROASTS {ROTIS). 36 1 

the neck and vent. Cut a thin shce of fat salt pork to tie 
over the breast of each bird ; truss them, lay them in a drip- 
ping-pan with a cupful of any good gravy or broth, or half 
a cupful each of wine and water, and bake or roast them 
for an hour if they are large ; small birds will cook in less 
time. When they begin to brown, season them with salt 
and pepper, and rub a little butter over them. Serve them 
with a dish of currant-jelly, or with the gravy in the dripping- 
pan, first removing the grease from it. The pork may be 
omitted if the flavor is not liked. 

PRAIRIE CHICKENS BROILED. 

Pluck and singe the birds, wipe them with a wet towel, 
split them down the back, draw them, and place them 
between the bars of a buttered double wire gridiron. First 
expose the inside to the fire until it begins to brown ; turn 
the breast to the fire, and slightly brown it ; next rub a little 
butter all over the bird, season it with salt and pepper, and 
broil it quite brown on the inside, cooking it at least ten 
minutes ; then finish browning the breast quickly. Serve 
the prairie-chicken hot, on a hot dish, with a tablespoonful 
of butter laid over it as soon as it is dished, and send it at 
once to the table. 

BROILED PARTRIDGE. 

Pluck a pair of partridges, singe them, and wipe them with 
a wet towel ; split them down the back, breaking the merry- 
thought or wish-bone to make the breasts lie flat ; rub them 
all over with cold butter, lay them between the bars of a 
double wire gridiron, and quickly broil them brown over 
a hot fire ; serve them with currant-jelly, after lightly sea- 
soning them with salt and pepper. Watercresses, lettuce, 
cucumbers, or Saratoga potatoes may be served with broiled 
grouse, or they may be placed on hot slices of buttered 
toast. 



362 PRACTICAL AMERICA A' COOKERY. 

ROAST PARTRIDGE. 

After a pair of partridges are dressed, put the birds before 
a hot fire, or in a very hot oven, and brown them quickly ; 
after they are brown, season them with salt and pepper, 
baste them with a litUe butter, and allow them to cook for 
about half an hour ; meantime fry a pint of coarse bread- 
crumbs brown in the frying-kettle, taking care to have the 
fat smoking hot ; when they are brown, take them up with 
a skimmer, and lay them on brown paper to free them from 
grease ; serve the roast partridge on the fried bread-crumbs. 
If gravy is desired, make it from the drippings in the pan, 
according to- directions already given with roast-bird recipes. 

ROAST PTARMIGAN. 

Ptarmigan, or white grouse, also called willow grouse, a 
rare bird, is sometimes marketed. It should be kept as 
long as possible, and then carefully dressed, and either 
baked or roasted, and served on fried bread-crumbs. The 
crumbs are first sifted to secure rather large ones of even 
size, and then fried golden brown in plenty of smoking-hot 
fat ; only a moment is required to fry them, and as soon as 
they are properly colored they should be skimmed out of 
the fat at once, and laid on brown paper to free them from 
grease. Either brown gravy or bread-sauce is served with 
ptarmigan. 

PHEASANTS GARNISHED WITH SNIPE. 

In this dish, both the pheasants and the snipe are roasted ; 
the latter may each have an oyster inserted in it after 
it is dressed, or a small slice of bacon or fat salt pork 
wrapped about it, as directed in the recipe for barded birds. 
The small birds are arranged around the larger ones, and in 
serving they are helped with them. Any green salad or 
celery may be served with this dish. 



ROASTS (A'dr/s). 363 



ROAST GUINEA-FOWL. 

When guinea-fowl is young and tender, it is very nice. 
To dress it, pluck it carefully, singe it, draw it without 
breaking the entrails, and wipe it with a wet towel ; if 
stuffing is desired, use any of the force-meats already given 
for duck or goose, omitting the sage. Roast the birds before 
an open fire, or bake them in a hot oven, seasoning them, 
after they are brown, with salt and pepper ; cook them 
rather well done, and then serve them hot, with plenty of 
currant-jelly. 

Guinea-fowl may also be stuffed and baked. 

BONED SQUABS AND PIGEONS. 

After the squabs are carefully plucked, cut off the head, 
wings, and legs, near the body ; cut through the skin down 
the middle of the back, and then, keeping the knife pressed 
flat against the carcass of the bird, cut the flesh away from 
it until the joints of the wings and legs are reached ; unjoint 
these, and continue cutting until the ridge of the breast- 
bone is reached ; it is here that there is most danger of 
cutting or tearing the skin, so that great care must be ex- 
ercised to prevent it. When the entire flesh has been freed 
from the carcass, lay it skin down on the table, take out 
the w'ing and leg bones from the inside, and replace the 
carcass with any good force-meat or stuffing ; well- seasoned 
sausage-meat will be good for this purpose. Fold the skin 
over the force-meat, secure it in place with a few stitches, 
and round the bird in good shape ; roast or bake the boned 
squabs, and sei-ve them either with aspic jelly or a salad, 
after removing the string used to confine the force-meat. 
Orange salad is good with cold birds. 

The squabs may be served hot ; and tender pigeons may 
be cooked in the same way, or they may be draw^n carefully 



364 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

and cither roasted or baked, with or without stuffing, and 
served with a brown gravy. 

ROAST TURKEY POULT. 

In the late spring and summer, turkey poults, or young 
turkeys, are preferable to the larger and older birds. They 
may be used as soon as they grow plump and well fleshed. 

Prepare a turkey poult for roasting by carefully removing 
the feathers, and then singe, and wipe it with a wet towel ; 
draw it without breaking the intestines ; thoroughly wash a 
fresh calfs tongue, or several smaller ones, — as many as 
the turkey will hold ; put the tongue inside the turkey, after 
seasoning it with a level teaspoonful of salt and a dust of 
cayenne, and then sew up and truss the turkey ; put it 
before an open fire, and quickly brown it on all sides, turn- 
ing it frequently ; when it is brown, season it with salt and 
pepper, basting it with the drippings which flow from it. A 
turkey poult of four or five pounds will roast in about an 
hour. At the end of three-quarters of an hour, run a sharp 
thin knife-blade into the flesh, at the joint where the leg is 
united to the body of the bird, and examine the juice that 
flows ; if it is brownish in color, the poult is sufficiently 
cooked ; if the juice is red, the bird is not yet done : when 
the poult is nearly done, change the dripping-pan under it ; 
pour nearly all the drippings out of the pan, set it over the 
fire, stir in a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and continue 
to stir until the flour is brown ; then gradually add a pint 
of boiling water, stirring the gravy thus formed until it boils 
and is quite smooth, then season it palatably with salt and 
pepper, and it will be ready to use. When the turkey poult 
is done, remove the trussing-cords or skewers, and serve 
it with the gravy ; the tongue is carved, and serx'ed with the 
poult. Any green salad, or fresh tomatoes, make a good 
garnish for the poult. A salad of sour oranges, sliced and 



A'OAsrs (A'diYs). 365 

dressed with salad-oil and a little cayenne, is exceedingly 
good with any roast poultry. 

EOAST TURKEY. 

A large turkey may be roasted in the same way, the stuff- 
ing being made of tongue ; or any of the following stuffings 
can be used. 

Baked turkeys are usually called roast. The oven should 
be very hot in order to cook them well. 

GIBLET STUFFING. 

Put the giblets over the fire, in enough boiling water to 
cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and boil them gently until they are 
tender ; save the water in which the giblets were boiled, to 
use for gravy ; chop them quite fine, put them in a frying- 
pan over the fire with four ounces of butter, two cupfuls 
of stale bread crumbled fine, a palatable seasoning of salt, 
pepper, and any powdered sweet herb except sage ; stir 
all these ingredients together until they are liglit brown ; 
add a glass of sherry or madeira, and use the force-meat for 
stuffing the turkey. 

SALT-PORK STUFFING. 

Chop fine a quarter of a pound of fat and lean salt pork, 
and break two cupfuls of bread fine ; put them over the 
fire in a frying-pan with two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and fry them brown ; season this force-meat rather 
highly with salt, pepper, and any powdered sweet herb 
except sage, and use it for stuffing the turkey. 

SUET STUFFING. 

Remove all membrane from a quarter of a pound of suet, 
chop it very fine, mix it with three cupfuls of fine stale 



366 PKACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

bread, three raw eggs, a glass of wine, and a palatable sea- 
soning of powdered marjoram, thyme, salt, and pepper ; use 
this force-meat for stuffing a turkey. 

POTATO STUFFING. 

Peel, boil, and mash a quart of white potatoes ; add to 
them a quarter of a pound of butter and a palatable season- 
ing of salt, pepper, and any sweet herb except sage ; use 
this force-meat for stuffing the turkey. 

ROAST TURKEY PARTLY BONED. 

Remove all feathers from the turkey, singe it, and wipe 
it all over with a wet towel. Lay the bird on its breast, 
and cut down the middle of the back in a straight line ; 
then, cutting from the neck downward, and keeping the 
knife-blade close to the carcass, find the joints which unite 
the wings to the body, and unjoint them, leaving the bones 
of the wings in the flesh ; then, still cutting close to the 
bones, reach the thighs, and unjoint them, leaving the bones 
in the legs ; free the carcass of the turkey entirely from the 
flesh, taking care not to cut through the outer skin of the 
bird, especially along the front of the breast-bone. When 
all the flesh has been taken from the bones in this way, 
lay it, skin downward, upon the table, and season it with 
salt and pepper ; remove the gall from the liver, and place 
the liver on the skin of the neck, from which the crop has 
been removed ; next, lay on the flesh of the bird the oyster 
force-meat, prepared as directed in the following recipe ; 
draw the skin together at the back, and sew it with large 
stitches, taking care that enough force-meat is used to fill 
the body of the turkey out plump. Truss tlie bird with 
skewers or string, so that its original shape is restored ; tie 
a large thin slice of fiit salt pork over the breast, and roast 
it before an open fire, or bake it in a hot o\'en, about twenty 



A'OAsrs (A'dr/s). 367 

minutes to a pound ; baste the bird every fifteen minutes 
with the drippings, seasoning it when it is brown ; if a 
frothed surface is desired, dredge the turkey with flour 
before basting it. When it is done, remove the skewers or 
strings which hold it in pLace, and serve it with gravy made 
from the drippings in the pan ; the giblets being boiled ten- 
der, then chopped, and added to the gravy. Serve celery 
with the roast turkey. 

OYSTER FORCE-MEAT. 

Strain the liquor from a quart of oysters, and pour it over 
sufficient stale bread to fill the body of the turkey ; care- 
fully remove all bits of shell from the oysters, and then add 
them to the bread with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper, and a stalk of celery minced very 
fine, or a level teaspoonful of celery-leaves dried and 
powdered ; use the force-meat thus made, for stuffing the 
turkey, as directed in the preceding recipe. 

The turkey may be stuffed with the same force-meat used 
for boned turkey, or with any of the usual poultry stuffings. 
It may be used either hot or cold. An illustration of the 
dish is given in the chapter on Carving. 

ROAST TURKEY WITH TRUFFLES. 

This dish is seldom prepared in this country, because 
truffles are very expensive, — at least a pound of truffles 
being required for a small turkey. Of course the fresh 
truffles are the best ; and when they are obtainable, they 
should be carefully cleansed in cold water, with a soft brush. 
The canned truffles are to be taken from the liquor in which 
they are preserved ; the liquor should be used to make 
the sauce or gravy for the turkey. Keep the finest of the 
truffles whole ; chop the others very fine ; chop or pound 
in a mortar the white fat of bacon until the quantity equals 



368 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKER V. 



that of the truffles ; mix the bacon and truffles, season them 
palatably with salt and pepper, and stuff the turkey with 
them after it has been dressed as directed in the recipe for 
roast turkey ; sew up the turkey, truss it, and keep it in 
a cold place for three days ; then roast or bake it carefully, 
saving all the drippings for sauces or gravies ; make a gravy 
as directed for roast "turkey, using the giblets and some 
of the drippings and liquor from the truffles. Serve the 
truffled turkey either hot or cold. 

LARDED TURKEY. 

The accompanying engraving shows a turkey dressed, 
trussed with strings, and larded with fat salt pork, ready 
for roasting or baking. The larded parts of the turkey must 



^^^'^^^, 




Larded Turhey. 

be well covered with oiled or buttered paper while the bird 
is being cooked : the paper should be taken off just before 
the turkey is done, in order to allow the lardoons to brown. 
A young turkey larded and roasted, and ser\'ed with a 
garnish of watercresses dressed with a plain French salad- 
dressing, is one of the most delicious of all poultry roasts. 



Ji OASTS {J^OTIS). 



369 



IMPLEMENTS FOR LARDING AND TRUSSING. 

The accompanying engravings sliow the needles for lard- 
ing and trussing. The first represents a case of larding- 




Case of Larding-Needtes. 

needles of various sizes ; the split ends, in which the lardoons 
are placed, to be drawn through the flesh, protrude from 
the case. The second cut shows the large and medium 



Trussing-Needles. 



size of trussing-needles, which vary from four to twelve or 
more inches in length ; they are used for sewing up cuts 
in meat, or for trussing meat, game, and poultry. 



SPRING CHICKEN. BROILED. 

After the chicken is plucked, singed, and wiped with a 
wet towel, split it down the back, dress it without breaking 
the entrails, break the joints of the wings and legs ; put it 
between the bars of a buttered double gridiron, and broil 
it quite brown, not too close to the fire, cooking the inside 
thoroughly before turning the skin to the fire ; be sure 
it is quite done at the joints ; then season it with salt and 
pepper, lay on buttered toast, put a tablespoonful of butter 
over it, and serve it hot at once. 



370 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

BARBED CHICKEN OR GAME. 

The accompanying engraving shows a fowl or chicken, 
dressed and trussed, with a large thin slice of fat salt pork 
or bacon tied over the breast : this is called barding. The 
subsequent cooking may be by braising, baking, or roasting. 




Barded Fowl. 

as desired. After the fowl is cooked, the strings which are 
used for trussing and barding are removed, and the bird is 
served with any sauce or garnish preferred. 

Any rather dry game, like partridge or quail, gains much 
flavor and succulence by being barded before it is cooked. 

SPRING CHICKEN, BAKED. 

Pluck and singe a spring chicken, wipe it with a wet 
towel, split it down the back, and dress it without breaking 
the entrails ; clean the heart, liver, and gizzard, and chop 
them fine ; put the chicken into a dripping-pan large 
enough to let it lie out flat, after first breaking the joints 
of the wings and legs ; season it highly with salt and pepper, 
sprinkle over it the chopped heart, put a large tablespoon- 
ful of butter on it, and place it in a very hot oven for about 
twenty minutes, or until it is done at the joints and nicely 
browned ; turn it two or three times while it is cooking, to 
make sure tliat it is evenly done. Serve the chicken on 



ROASTS {ROT/S). 3/1 

buttered toast, pouring over it the gravy in the dripping- 
pan. 

This is a very nice way to cook chicken when there is 
not a good broiling-fire. 

ROAST CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUTS. 

Use the chicken boiled for chicken and rice soup ; or 
dress a small fowl carefully, and boil it gently until it is 
tender, in sufficient water to cover it; while the chicken 
is being boiled, either boil or roast enough chestnuts to fill 
it ; if the nuts are to be roasted, make a cross cut on each 
to prevent the bursting of the shell ; remove the shells and- 
skin of the chestnuts, fill the chicken with them, and brown 
it quickly, either before an open fire, or in a hot oven, 
basting it every five minutes with butter, salt, and pepper, 
mixed together ; serve the chicken as soon as it is brown. 

ROAST GOOSE AND GOSLING. 

Both geese and goslings for roasting are to be dressed like 
turkeys and chickens, for which recipes have been given. 
The stuffings are the same, except that sage is used for 
geese and ducks, and thyme* savory, and marjoram for other 
poultry. Gg3slings make a delicious roast. After the birds 
are cooked, they may be served with any of the gravies or 
sauces given below. 

GREEN APPLE SAUCE. 

Peel and slice a quart of green apples, put them over the 
fire with half a cupful of water and a cupful of white sugar, 
and stew them gently to a pulp, stirring them occasionally to 
prevent burning ; when the apples are stewed to a pulp, add 
to them two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of cream, 
and a very little grated nutmeg ; stir the sauce until the in- 
gredients are thoroughly mixed, and then serve it with roast 
gosling. 



3/2 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



SORREL-SAUCE. 

Carefully wash a quart of fresh green sorrel-leaves ; put 
them over the fire in plenty of salted boiling water, and boil 
them fast for about five minutes, or until they are tender ; 
then drain them, and throw them into cold water until they 
are cold ; drain them again, and rub them through a sieve 
with a potato-masher ; put them into a porcelain-lined 
saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, the juice of a 
lemon, a tablespoonful of white sugar, and enough brown 
gravy made from the drippings of the gosling to make the 
sauce of the proper consistency ; serve it as soon as it is hot, 
with roast or baked gosling. 

GOOSEBERR Y-SA UCE. 

Remove the tops and stems from a pint of green goose- 
berries ; put them over the fire in a porcelain saucepan, with 
two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and half a cupful of 
boiling water. Stew them gently until they are tender 
enough to rub through a sieve with a potato-masher. While 
the gooseberries are being stewed, make a white sauce as 
follows : Put over the fire in a saucepan a heaping table- 
spoonful each of butter and flour, and stir them until they 
are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir with them a pint 
of boiling water, a level teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of 
a saltspoonful of white pepper. ' Let the sauce boil for a 
moment, add the gooseberry-pulp to it and then serve it 
with roast or baked gosling. 

This sauce is sometimes colored green with spinach or 
sorrel-juice. 

GREEN SAUCE FOR GOSLINGS OR GEESE. 

Cut the tops and stems from a i)int of green gooseberries ; 
put them over the fire in a i^orcelain saucepan with half a 



F OASTS {/W77S). 373 

cupful of boiling water, and four lumps of white sugar ; stew 
them gently until they are tender enough to rub through a 
sieve with a potato-masher ; then return them to the sauce- 
pan. While the gooseberries are being stewed, pound in a 
mortar a pint of spinach or sorrel leaves, and then put them 
into a towel, and wring them to extract the juice ; add this 
juice to the gooseberry- pulp, together with a tablespoonful 
of butter and a glass of madeira ; heat the sauce, and serve 
it at once. 

BROWN GRAVY FOR ROAST GOOSE OR GOSLING. 

After the gosling is roasted or baked, pour nearly all the fat 
out of the pan, but do not pour away the brown part of the 
drippings ; put the pan over the fire, stir into it a heaping 
tablespoonful of flour, and let the flour brown. Then stir in 
a pint of boiling water, season the gravy palatably with salt 
and pepper, let it boil for a moment, and then serve it with 
the gosling. 

The giblets, cooked as directed in the recipe for giblet 
gravy given below, may be added to this gravy. In that 
case, the broth in which the giblets were boiled would be 
used instead of boiling water to make the gravy. 

GIBLET GRAVY FOR ROAST GOOSE OR GOSLING. 

Skin the head and neck of the gosling ; remove all pin- 
feathers from the tips of the wings ; scald and scrape the 
legs and feet, after cutting off the claws ; clean tlie heart and 
gizzard, and cut away the gall from the liver ; put them all 
into a saucepan with enough boiling water to entirely cover 
them, with salt and pepper in a palatable quantity, and boil 
them until the gosling is nearly done ; then remove all the 
bones, and chop the flesh and skin. Save the water in 
which they were boiled ; put over the fire in a saucepan a 
heaping tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and stir 



374 rKACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

them until they are brown ; gradually stir in the chopped 
giblets and broth. If there is not enough broth to make a 
gravy of the proper consistency, add a little boiling water ; 
season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil 
for a moment, and serve it with the roast gosling. 

DUCKLINGS. OR SPRING DUCKS. 

Although these delicious birds are not so well known as 
spring chickens, they rival them in tenderness, while they 
surpass their flavor. In summer, they sell for about the 
same price. To prepare them for the table, carefully pluck 
out all pin-feathers, singe them, draw them without breaking 
the intestines, and stuff them with any good force-meat if 
they are to be roasted ; or cook them in accordance with 
any recipe which promises good results. 

ROAST DUCKLINGS WITH ORANGE-SAUCE. 

Dress a pair of ducklings as directed in recipes for other 
poultry ; chop the liver, heart, and gizzard ; grate the rind of 
two oranges, and squeeze the juice ; mix the minced liv^er, 
etc., with the grated orange-peel, and an equal measure of 
bread-crumbs softened with cold water ; season this force- 
meat palatably with salt and pepper, stuff the ducklings with 
it, truss them, and roast them before a moderate fire, basting 
them with their own drippings, or with a little butter ; when 
the birds are done, set the dripping-pan over the fire ; stir 
with the drippings a tablespoonful of flour, and brown it, 
then stir in the orange-juice, and enoygh hot water to make 
the sauce the proper consistency ; let it boil up, season it 
palatably with salt and pepper, and serve it with the roast 
ducklings. 

DUCKLING WITH ONIONS. 

Pluck and singe a large duckling, wipe it with a wet towel, 
cut off the head and feet, and draw it without breaking the 



/COASTS {rot/s). 375 

intestines. Wash two bunches of young green onions, cut 
them in half-inch lengths, put them into plenty of salted 
boiling water, boil them for five minutes, and then drain 
them ; add to the onions an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, 
a tablespoonful of butter, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
and pepper. Stuff and truss the duckling, put it into a drip- 
ping-pan just large enough to hold it, and set it in a very 
hot oven to brown, or roast it before the fire ; when it is 
brown, season it with salt and pepper, and baste it with the 
drippings in the pan ; bake the duckling about half an hour, 
or until it is done ; put the duckling on a hot dish ; set the 
pan over the fire, stir into the drippings a heaping table- 
spoonful of flour, and brown it ; when the flour is brown, add 
a pint of boiling water, season the gravy thus made with salt 
and pepper, let it boil for a moment, and then serve it with 
the duckling. It may be served with a garnish of water- 
cresses, or with apple-sauce, or pickled apples. 

A less quantity of onions may be used with the duckling. 

Ducks may be cooked in the same way, or like geese and 
goslings. 

DUCK WITH ORANGE-SAUCE. 

Pluck and singe the duck, wipe it with a wet towel, and 
draw it carefully ; chop the liver fine with an equal quantity 
of fat bacon ; add to it one onion peeled and chopped, a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of salt, 
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the grated rind of an 
orange ; use this force-meat to stuff the duck. After the 
duck is stuffed, truss it in shape, tie over the breast a large 
thin slice of fat bacon, put it into a dripping-pan just large 
enough to hold it, and place it in a hot oven for fifteen or 
twenty minutes. 

ORANGE-SA UCE. 

While the duck is baking, scrape a tablespoonful each of 
fat bacon and raw onion, and fry them together for five min- 



37^ PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

utes ; add to them the juice of an orange, a glass of port- 
wine, the drijipings from the duck, and a palatable season- 
ing of salt and pepper ; keep the sauce thus made hot, with- 
out boiling, and serve it with the duck when the latter is 
done. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

SALADS AND VEGETABLES {Salades et Entremets). 

THE variety of salads depends solely upon the taste and 
ingenuity of the housekeeper, for the possibilities are 
illimitable. Those made of uficooked vegetables should 
always be fresh and crisp. If they are wilted in the least 
degree, they should be washed, without draining, and put 
into a cool, dark place to revive. Before using them, all 
decayed leaves should be removed, and the moisture ab- 
sorbed from them by using a soft, clean towel. Cucumbers 
should be peeled, and laid in cold salted water for an hour 
before serving them, and then shaken dry in a clean towel, 
and dressed with pepper, salt, vinegar, and plenty of good 
oil. Radishes should be similarly dressed. If they are 
very pungent in taste, a very little sugar will modify their 
sharpness. The young, white leaves of oyster-plant, mixed 
with an equal quantity of chopped green onions, both being 
well cleansed, make a good salad. Green peppers, chopped 
without the seeds, and added to cabbage shaved fine, are 
excellent. Nasturtium leaves, stems, and buds, washed and 
chopped, dressed with salt, oil, and vinegar, are very good ; 
the flowers may be used to garnish the dish. All these 
salads should be dressed with the plain French salad-dress- 
ing. Enough for a medium-sized salad may be made by 
mixing thoroughly together a heaping saltspoonful of salt, 
half a level saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, and six of salad-oil. 

in 



378 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Tomatoes may be sliced after washing, and served with 
plain salad-dressing, or peeled and served with a viayon- 
naise. In either case they should be firm and ripe, sliced 
nicely, and kept in a very cold place until wanted for the 
table. 

Celery should be carefully washed in plenty of salted 
water ; the green leaves and stalks trimmed off, and either 
used fresh for flavoring sauces, soups, and force-meats, or 
dried by gentle heat ■ for later use ; the roots should be 
peeled, dried, and then grated and mixed with salt for table 
use. The white stalks are best for the table ; after they are 
washed, they may be kept in a cool, dark place, or in the 
refrigerator, near the ice. Frozen celery must be laid in 
plenty of cold water as soon as it is brought into the house, 
and kept there until all the frost is extracted : thawing it by 
heat destroys its excellence. 

Lettuce should be kept on or near the ice after it is 
washed, or in a cool, dark place, entirely wrapped in a cloth 
wet in cold water : if it is enclosed in an air-tight box after it 
is wrapped in the wet cloth, it will keep fresh for some time, 
care being taken to renew the wet cloth, and trim off all 
defective leaves. 

WATERCRESS SALAD. 

Carefully wash a pint of fresh watercresses, free them 
from all decayed leaves, break them in lengths of about two 
inches, and shake them dry in a clean towel ; arrange them 
neatly on a cold dish, and dress them with three table- 
spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, and a dust of salt and 
pepper. Dandelion, oyster-plant, chicory, escarole, and 
nasturtium may be served in the same way. 

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 

This is the usual dressing for vegetable salads : enough 
for a medium-sized salad-bowl can be made by mixing to- 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 379 

getlj^er two talilcspoonfuls of vinegar, six of oil, a salt- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pep^Der. 

SLICED CUCUMBERS. 

Peel two or three cucumbers, cut them in thin slices, and 
let them stand for an hour in very cold salted water ; then 
drain them, dry them on a towel, and dress them with 
plenty of oil and vinegar, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
and cayenne-pepper ; or, with cream salad-dressing. 

Young onions sliced make a good addition to cucumber 
salad. 

CREAM SALAD DRESSING 

Is made by mixing sour cream with enough vinegar, pepper, 
and salt to season the salad palatably. 

PEPPER SALAD. 

Remove the skin from six green peppers, and chop them 
fine. Peel one red pepper, and chop it very fine ; peel and 
chop a Spanish onion, weighing a quarter of a pound ; peel 
and chop six tomatoes ; mix with these ingredients two tea- 
spoonfuls of salt. Carefully separate the leaves of two heads 
of lettuce, wash them in plenty of cold water, and dry them 
by shaking them in a towel. Arrange the lettuce and 
chopped salad in a salad-bowl in layers, pour over it half a 
cupful of salad-oil and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and 
serve it. 

ONION AND TOMATO SALAD. 

Choose half a dozen firm, ripe tomatoes of medium size, 
wipe them with a wet towel, and slice them about a quarter 
of an inch thick ; peel a medium-size Valencia or Spanish 
onion, and slice it very thin ; arrange the sliced onion and 
tomatoes in layers in a salad-bowl, and pour over them a 
plain salad-dressing, made by mixing together half a cupful 



380 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

of salad-oil, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a level tea- 
spoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper ; use 
the salad as soon as it is made. 

Young green onions may be used in this salad. 

VEGETABLE SCOOPS. 

The first picture shows several forms of vegetable scoops, 
made of steel, and set in stout wooden handles. They are 
used for cutting vegetables for soups, garnishes, and salads. 
After the vegetable is peeled, the mside of the scoop is laid 
against the rounded surface, the thumb of the left hand 
presses the bowl of the scoop firmly into the vegetable, 
while with the right hand the scoop is held tightly and 
forced into the vegetable, first with a rocking and then 
with a circular motion. A little practice will soon enable 
one, with a strong hand, to cut the vegetables as shown on 
the upper line of the second picture, in the first four figures. 
The figures marked 5 and 6 are cut with a sharp vegetable 
knife ; and 7 and 8, with the cylindrical vegetable cutters, 
a picture of which is given elsewhere. 

TOMATOES WITH MAYONNAISE. 

Raw tomatoes, peeled and sliced, are delicious with may- 
07inaise, which is made by slowly mixing three parts of oil 
and one of vinegar with the yolk of a raw egg, and a palata- 
ble seasoning of salt and pepper ; the addition of mustard to 
mayonnaise is a question of taste. The egg and seasonings 
are put in the bottom of a bowl, with a very little vinegar, 
and mixed to a smooth cream ; the oil and vinegar are then 
added alternately, a few drops at a time, until the desired 
quantity of mayonnaise is made ; the stirring must be gentle 
and constant, and, after the mayonnaise is made, it must be 
kept in a cool place until it is used. 



Vegntable Scoops. 




Vegetables cut with Scoops and Cylinders. 



^Si 



382 PKAC77CAL A A/UN /CAN COOKE/^Y. 

COLD SLAW. 

Wash a firm head of white cabbage of medium size, in 
plenty of cold water, and cut it in thin slices. Put in a 
porcelain-lined saucepan over the fire, half a cupful each of 
vinegar and water, two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and a level teaspoonful of salt, and let 
them just begin to boil ; then draw the saucepan to the side 
of the fire, where its contents will not boil ; stir in the yolks 
of four raw eggs, and as soon as this sauce is stirred smooth 
pour it over the cabbage ; serve the cold slaw with roast 
meat or poultry. 

HOT SLAW. 

Carefully wash a head of firm cabbage, cut it in shreds, 
and put it over the fire in salted boiling water, to boil only 
until tender, which will be in from five to twenty minutes, 
according to the age of the cabbage ; then drain it, and 
serve it with a dressing made as follows : Melt together by 
gentle heat two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of 
rich cream, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and add them to 
the boiled cabbage ; season it palatably with salt and pepper, 
and serve it as soon as it is prepared, with any dish of fried 
poultry or meat. 

CHEESE SALAD. 

Use any dry, rich cheese, such as Edam, Rochefort, or 
Gorgonzola, about two heaping tablespoonfuls to a head of 
lettuce of medium size ; carefully wash the lettuce, tear the 
leaves apart, and lay them m a salad-dish ; break the cheese 
m small bits, and scatter it among the lettuce ; pour over it 
a plain salad-dressing, made as directed above, and serve 
the salad at once. 

SALADS OF COOKED VEGETABLES. 

These salads are made of different vegetables, which have 
been boiled and allowed to cool. When green vegetables 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 383 

are to be used, such as asparagus, pease, and string-beans, 
they should be boiled in salted boiling water, only until 
tender, and then drained and put into cold water at once 
to preserve their color. Before they are served as salads, 
they should be drained on a dry cloth to free them from 
moisture. Cold asparagus served with mayonnaise is deli- 
cious. Boiled cauliflower with mayonnaise is good. Car- 
rots, turnips, and beets boiled, cooled, and cut in fancy 
shapes with vegetable scoops, may be served either with 
mayonnaise or plam dressing. 

POTATO SALAD. 

Potato salad is composed of boiled potatoes, peeled and 
sliced, one onion, peeled and sliced very thin, to six pota- 
toes, and plenty of plain salad-dressing ; sometimes a little 
chopped parsley is added. Variations of potato-salad are 
made by the addition of green onions chopped fine, lettuce, 
or small dice of fried salt pork. 

AMERICAN POTATO SALAD. 

Peel half a dozen cold boiled potatoes, and slice them, 
not too thin ; boil two eggs hard ; wash, and chop rather 
fine, one head of celery ; peel one onion, and chop it fine ; 
break the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs smooth with the 
yolk of one raw egg ; stir with them a gill of oil, two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, a level teaspoonful each of salt and 
dry mustard, and a saltspoonful of pepper ; mix this dress- 
ing with the potato, celery, and onion, and serve the salad. 

BEET AND POTATO SALAD. 

Use equal quantities of boiled new potatoes and new 
beets ; peel them while they are still hot, cut them in half- 
inch dice, season them with salt and pepper, and dress them 
with vinegar and plenty of good salad-oil ; or with a salad- 



384 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

dressing made according to tlie recipe given with the water- 
cress salad. 

SALAD OF FRENCH BEANS. 

Pick over a pint of French haricot beans, — the large, 
dark-red variety ; put them over the fire in a quart of cold 
water, and let them begin to boil ; then add a cupful of 
cold water, and let them boil again ; every fifteen minutes 
add more cold water, and continue to boil the beans until they 
are tender ; then drain them, and let them get quite cold. 
To each pint of cold boiled beans, add two tablespoonfuls 
of chopped parsley, and a plain salad-dressing composed 
of six tablespoonfuls of oil, two of vinegar, a saltspoonful of 
salt, with half a saltspoonful of pepper ; mix these ingre- 
dients thoroughly, pour them over the beans, and serve the 
salad. Cold string-beans make a good salad. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SALAD. 

Use for this salad cold boiled artichokes ; slice them with- 
out breaking them, arrange the slices neatly on a dish, and 
pour over them a plain salad-dressing made by mixing 
together three tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar, a 
saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pep- 
per. 

FRUIT SALADS. 

The fruits which we are accustomed to associate with 
breakfast or dessert may be used as salads : the only point 
to be remembered is that they must be of a pronounced 
flavor or acid. Orange salad, made of thinly sliced oranges, 
freed from seeds, and dressed with salt, cayenne, lemon-juice, 
and oil, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice to three of oil, is 
a delicious accompaniment for broiled or roasted game or 
poultry. Lemon salad is composed of sliced lemons, the 
seeds being removed, and lettuce carefully washed and dried ; 
the dressing is salt, cayenne, and oil. Apple salad is made 
of very tart apples, sliced, and mixed with young green 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 385 

onions chopped, and plain salad-dressing. In summer, 
gooseberries or barberries, combined with young onions or 
cucumbers, sliced, and served with plain dressing, are very- 
good with boiled salt mackerel. Currants mixed with well- 
washed lettuce, and dressed with salt, pepper, and oil, are 
refreshing and wholesome. 

A delicious breakfast salad is muskmelon, made very cold, 
cut in the natural divisions, freed from seeds, and served 
with salt, pepper, oil, and lemon-juice, one tablespoonful of 
lemon-juice to three of oil. Watermelon with mayonnaise 
makes a good salad, as also does grape-fruit. 

MAYONNAISE FOR SALAD. 

Make a mayon?iaise salad-dressing as follows : Put into a 
bowl the yolk of one raw egg, one level teaspoonful of salt, 
half a saltspoonful of white pepper, a dust of cayenne-pepper, 
and a teaspoonful of vinegar ; quickly mix these ingredients 
to a smooth cream, then stir into them salad-oil and vinegar, 
first adding the oil, two or three drops at once, and mixing 
it smoothly with the first-named ingredients until a thick 
paste is formed ; then stir in a very little vinegar, using only 
enough to make the mayonnaise about as thick as rich 
cream ; then add more oil, a few drops at a time, until the 
thick paste is again formed ; then a little vinegar, as before ; 
proceed in this way, using oil and vinegar alternately, and 
stirring the mayonnaise constantly, until three-quarters of a 
pint of oil and one-quarter of a pint of vinegar have been 
used. When done, the jnayonnaise should be like very 
thick cream ; if it should curdle or break during the mixing, 
put it in the ice-box, or in a very cold place, for half an 
hour, and then finish it ; if the weather is warm, place the 
bowl containing it in a pan of cracked ice while it is being 
mixed. After the 7?iayonnaise is mixed, keep it in a cold 
place until it is wanted for the table. 



386 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



SALMON SALAD. 

For a salmon salad, mix together one part of cold boiled 
or canned salmon and two parts of chopped celery which 
has been thoroughly washed, and dried on a clean towel ; 
season these ingredients palatably with salt and pepper, put 
them into a salad-bowl, pour over them a very litde salad- 
oil and vinegar, using about three tablespoonfuls of oil and 
one of vinegar to a quart of salad, and then put the mayon- 
naise on the top of the salad, and serve it at once. The 
salad may be garnished with cold hard-boiled eggs sliced 
or quartered, pickled beets, olives and capers, or any of 
these articles ; or it may be served without a garnish. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

A good salad can be made from cold boiled or roasted 
chicken, cut in small pieces ; for a pint of chicken allow a 
large head of lettuce, thoroughly washed and torn in pieces, 
and a cupful of mayonnaise. To make the mayo7inaise, put 
into an earthen bowl the yolk of a raw egg, a level teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper; 
stir these ingredients until they are smoothly mixed, and 
then gradually drop in a cupful of good salad-oil, adding it 
slowly, and stirring the mayonnaise constantly until it grows 
quite thick ; then use a few drops of vinegar to thin it a 
little, and after that stir in more oil ; proceed in this way 
until all the oil is used ; when ready to serve the salad, mix 
the lettuce and chicken in a salad-bowl, season them lightly 
witli salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, pour the mayonnaise over 
the salad, and serve it at once. 

Chicken salad is sometimes made with celery instead of 
lettuce, and is usually garnished with hard-boiled eggs ; 
cold boiled beets, capers, olives, and the small leaves of 
lettuce or celery are also used to garnish chicken salad. 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 387 

SWEETBREAD SALAD. 

Blanch sweetbreads as directed in the proper recipe, and 
continue to boil them for fifteen minutes ; then cool and 
slice them. Wash for each pair of sweetbreads a head of 
lettuce in plenty of cold salted water, and dry it on a clean 
towel ; put the yolk of a raw egg in a bowl ; add to it a level 
teaspoonful each of dry mustard and salt, quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of vinegar ; mix these 
ingredients to a smooth cream, then stir in, drop by drop, 
enough oil to form a thick paste ; next add a little vinegar 
to liquefy the paste ; then, alternately, more oil and vinegar 
until there is enough dressing for the salad. Arrange the 
lettuce on a salad-dish,. put the sweetbreads on it, and pour 
the dressing over them. Serve the salad as soon as it is 
made. 

OYSTER SALAD. 

Oysters, carefully freed from bits of shell, and scalded in 
their liquor, may be used for salad as directed in the above 
recipe. 

SHAD-ROE SALAD. 

Wash a shad-roe in cold water ; put it over the fire in 
salted boiling water, and boil it for fifteen minutes, or until 
the grains are hardened ; then drain it, pour a little vinegar 
over it, and rub it until the grains are separated ; peel and 
slice half a dozen raw tomatoes ; thoroughly wash and drain 
a head of fresh lettuce ; put the lettuce in the bottom of a 
salad-bowl, then the tomato and shad-roe in layers, and pour 
over all six tablespoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar or lemon- 
juice, and serve the salad. Cold fried or broiled shad-roe 
may be used in this dish, 

SHRIMP SALAD. 

Prepare a quart of shrimp as directed in the recipe for 
shrimp sauce ; wash two heads of fresh lettuce ; shake the 



388 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

water from the leaves, and arrange them on a salad-bowl j 
put the shrimp in a little heap in the centre of the lettuce, 
and pour over them a tnayonnaise, made without mustard, 
as follows : Put the yolk of a raw egg in a bowl, stir it with 
a fork, and mix oil with it, a few drops at a time, until quite 
a thick paste is formed ; next slowly mix in enough vinegar 
to thin it ; then again add oil and vinegar, stirring the dress- 
ing gently and constantly, until the desired quantity of may- 
onnaise is made, using one-third as much vinegar as oil ; 
season it palatably with salt and pepper, and use it with the 
salad. 

Prawns make a delicious salad. 

HOT LOBSTER SALAD. 

This salad must be served directly it is made. 

Choose a medium-sized lobster, heavy for its size, and 
quite alive ; plunge it head first into a large pot half full of 
boiling water, and boil it for about twenty minutes, or until 
the shell is quite red ; cool the lobster until it can be 
handled ; then take it from the shell, using a can-opener 
to separate the shell ; save all the coral, green fat, and the 
flesh of the lobster. Throw away the intestine, which runs 
through the flesh of the tall ; the " lady," or membranous 
sack, which lies back of the eyes ; the " dead men," or soft 
fins, which lie under the small legs, close to the body and 
the shell. Cut the flesh of the lobster in pieces about an 
inch square. While the lobster is being prepared, boil two 
eggs hard, remove the shells, and cut the eggs in quarters ; 
carefully wash and dry two medium-sized heads of lettuce, 
cut them in quarters, and keep them in a cold place ; put 
into a saucepan four tablespoon fuls each of Initter and 
vinegar, a mustard-spoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful 
of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, a dust of cay- 
enne, and the lobster, and place the saucepan over the fire ; 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 389 

arrange the lettuce around the sides of a salad-bowl ; stir 
the lobster until it is hot, pour into the salad-bowl, garnish 
it with the hard-boiled eggs, and serve it at once. The suc- 
cess of this salad depends upon the rapidity with which it 
is made and served; 

LOBSTER SALAD. 

Prepare the lobster as directed in the preceding recipe, 
but do not heat it. Arrange it on a dish with the lettuce, 
pour over it a mayonnaise, and garnish it with hard-boiled 
eggs, and the coral and small claws ; capers, cold boiled 
beets, olives, and the small lettuce-leaves may also be used 
to garnish the salad. A recipe for mayonnaise has already 
been given. 

NEW POTATOES. 

Wash and scrape a pint of small, even-sized new potatoes, 
putting them into cold water as fast as they are scraped ; 
when all are done, put them over the fire in salted boiling 
water, and boil them only until they can be easily pierced 
with a fork ; then drain off the water, put with them a table- 
spoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
saltspoonful of white pepper, and sufficient milk to entirely 
cover them ; let them boil gently for five minutes, and then 
serve them. 

New potatoes boiled until tender, and then rolled in flour, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and browned in butter, either 
in a frying-pan or in a hot oven, are very good. New pota- 
toes carefully washed, and then baked in a dripping-pan, 
either with just enough butter to favor browning, or plain, 
are excellent if they are served directly they are done ; they 
grow watery by standing. 

Broiled new potatoes are prepared either by slicing them 
raw or after they have been partly boiled, dipping them in 
melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, and then 



390 PR AC TIC AL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

browning them over a hot fire, between the bars of a but- 
tered double wire gridiron. 

Cold boiled new potatoes, chopped, and browned in but- 
ter, with a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, are excel- 
lent for breakfast or luncheon. 

BERMUDA POTATOES. 

The Bermuda potatoes, which are the first new potatoes 
marketed, may be prepared according to any of the potato 
recipes ; they are generally of a good size and flavor, and 
mealy in texture ; they are excellent boiled plain, as an 
accompaniment for fish. 

BOILED POTATOES. 

Choose small, smooth potatoes of even size ; wash them, 
and then peel them, taking care to remove only a vtry thin 
paring, and to keep them smooth, and laying each one in 
cold water as it is peeled ; or, remove part of the paring ; 
place the potatoes over the fire in plenty of salted boiling 
water, and boil them for ten minutes, or until they can be 
easily pierced with a fork ; do not allow the potatoes to boil 
until they begin to break, but drain them as soon as they 
are tender ; after draining the potatoes, cover them with 
a clean towel folded several times, and place the saucepan 
containing them where they will keep hot without burning 
until they are wanted for the table : the folded towel will 
retain the heat, and at the same time permit the steam to 
escape, so that the potatoes will be mealy and unbroken 
when they are served. Potatoes may be boiled in their 
jackets in the same way, a thin ring of paring being removed 
after they are washed ; as is the case with the peeled pota- 
toes, care must be taken to drain the potatoes as soon as 
they are tender enough to be pierced with a fork, and they 
must then be covered with a folded towel, and allowed to 
steam. 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 391 



BAKED POTATOES. 

Potatoes for baking should be of medium size, smooth, 
and carefully washed ; the oven should be hot, and the 
potatoes watched after they have been baking for twenty 
minutes ; as soon as they are soft enough to yield to press- 
ure, they should be served at once, because, after they are 
really done, they spoil very soon. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Peel the desired quantity of potatoes, slice them half an 
inch thick, put them into .salted boiling water, and boil 
them until tender ; then pour them into a colander, and set 
it over a hot dish when all the water has drained away ; put 
with a quart of potatoes, a tablespoonful of butter, the yolk 
of a raw egg, and a palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and 
grated nutmeg, and rub them through the colander with a 
potato-masher. Serve the* potatoes the moment they are 
mashed, or they will grow cold ; if they cannot be sent to 
the table directly they are done, set them into a hot oven 
and brown them. Be sure to serve them hot. 

If the egg is omitted, the potatoes may be more highly 
seasoned ; or a very little milk may replace it, but not enough 
to make the potatoes too moist. 

Cold mashed potatoes may be re-warmed by stirring them 
over the fire with just enough milk to soften them, and a 
palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; or, made into little 
cakes or balls, and fried brown in hot fat ; or, mixed with 
finely minced meat, and warmed in a frying-pan, with a 
palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and butter. 

POTATO STRAWS. 

Wash a pint of potatoes, peel them very thin, slice them 
about a quarter of an inch thick ; put them into plenty of 



392 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

salted boiling water, and boil them until they are tender, 
which will be in about ten minutes ; when the potatoes 
are tender, pour them into a colander with large holes, and 
let the water drain off; when the potatoes are quite dry, 
sprinkle o\er them a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of 
a saltspoonful of white pepper ; hold the colander over one 
end of a large platter, and press upon the potatoes with a 
potato- masher, moving the colander toward the other end 
of the dish as the potatoes are pressed through it, so that 
they will fall upon the dish in long rows ; continue to move 
the colander from one end of the platter to the other, until 
all the potatoes are pressed through and laid in even rows 
upon the dish ; then wipe the edges of the dish with a clear) 
towel, set it in the oven for two or three minutes to heal 
the potatoes, and then serve them. 

BROWN HASHED POTATOES. 

Chop a pint of cold boiled potatoes in quarter-inch dice, 
after peeling them ; put four tablespoonfuls of drippings 
into a frying-pan, and let them get smoking hot ; then put 
in the hashed potatoes, season them with a level teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and stir 
them over a hot fire until they are nicely browned ; then serve 
them at once. 

FRIED POTATOES. 

Have ready over the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat ; 
peel half a dozen medium-sized smooth potatoes ; when 
the fat is smoking hot, slice the potatoes into it, and fry 
them golden brown ; when they are brown, take them from 
the fat with a skimmer, put them into a colander, dust them 
with pepper and salt, shake them up, and serve them hot. 

SARATOGA POTATOES. 

Saratoga potatoes are peeled, and sliced very thin, and 
soaked over night, or for several hours, in plenty of cold 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 



393 



water ; sometimes a small bit of alum is dissolved in the 
water to harden the potatoes ; before they are fried, they are 
carefully drained or dried on a towel, and then fried in 
plenty of smoking-hot fat, a few slices at a time, as directed 
in the preceding recipe. They are served either hot or 
cold. 

JULIENNE POTATOES. 

Peel potatoes of medium size, cut them in slices, cross- 
wise, with a fluted vegetable knife, like the one shown in 
the following illustration, and then proceed to cook them 
like Saratoga potatoes. Serve them hot with beefsteak. 

. FLUTED VEGETABLE KNIFE. 

The fluted knife shown in the first cut is used for peeling 
vegetables and fruit, so that the outside seems covered with 
circular grooves ; small potatoes, button-mushrooms, and 
sections of carrots, turnips, and other solid vegetables, are 
cut with this knife for garnishes. The manner of holding the 
knife to form the grooves is shown in the second cut. To 



Fluted Vegetable Knife. 



make grooved slices, the vegetable or fruit is first peeled with 
the plain part of the knife, and then sliced with the grooved 




Vegetable turned or r'lt fith Fl'ite-I Knife. 



394 PRACTICAL AMliRJCAX COOKER Y. 

section. Potatoes cut in this way, and then fried like Sara- 
toga potatoes, are called Julienne potatoes. 



SWEET POTATOES FRIED WITH PORK. 

U'ash a quart of sweet potatoes ; boil them tender in 
salted boiling water, and peel and slice them about half an 
inch thick ; meantime slice half a pound of fat salt pork, 
and fry it brown ; then fry the potatoes liglit brown in the 
drippings, and serve them on the same dish with the pork. 



BOILED SWEET POTATOES. 

Wash the potatoes, using those about of a size, so that 
they may cook evenly ; put them over the fire, either in hot 
or cold salted water, and boil them for about twenty minutes, 
or until they are tender ; then drain and serve them. 

If sweet potatoes are at all watery, they can be greatly 
improved by putting them into a very hot oven for five min- 
utes after they are boiled ; if they are peeled, put them in a 
dripping-pan with a little butter, and brown them before 
serving them. 

STUFFED SWEET POTATOES. 

Wash a dozen medium-size sweet potatoes, which should 
be rather round in shape, and have smooth skins ; bake 
them in a moderate oven until they begin to soften ; when 
the potatoes are ready, take them from the oven, cut a slice 
from one side of each which will permit the introduction of 
a teaspoon, and with the spoon scoop out the inside of the 
potato, taking care not to break the skin. As the potato is 
withdrawn from the skin, put it into a bowl ; and, when all 
the skins are empty, season the potato rather highly with 
salt and pepper, mix with it two tablespoonfuls of butter, 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 395 

and replace it in the skins ; put on each potato, after it is 
stuffed, the piece of skin first cut from it, and then return 
the potatoes to the oven to heat thoroughly. When they 
are hot, serve them in the skins. 

The potatoes may be served when they are tender without 
being stuffed. 

SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 

Peel and wash a large sweet potato, wipe it dry on a 
clean towel, and then grate it on a large grater ; while the 
potato is being grated, heat a quart of milk ; stir a cupful 
of the grated potato into the hot milk, and let it boil ; 
meantime beat four eggs to a cream ; add a heaping table- 
spoonful of butter to the milk and potatoes, and take them 
off the fire ; stir the beaten eggs with the milk and potatoes, 
season the pudding palatably with salt and pepper, put it 
into an earthen dish, and bake it for twenty minutes, or until 
the custard is firm, in a moderate oven ; serve it hot as a 
vegetable. The same pudding may be sweetened, and baked 
to use for dessert. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

After washing a quart of artichokes thoroughly in cold 
water, scrape off the skin, holding them under water to keep 
them white, and putting them, as fast as they are scraped, 
into a large bowl of cold water containing a tablespoonful 
of salt and half a cupful of vinegar. When all the arti- 
chokes are scraped, put them over the fire in salted boiling 
water enough to cover them, and boil them gently until they 
are tender, but not broken ; they will not be mealy like po- 
tatoes, but of a dense, waxy texture, and they break easily ; 
when the artichokes are tender, drain them from the water 
in which they were boiled, and serve them in a cream sauce 
made as follows : About ten minutes after the artichokes are 
put over the fire to boil, heat a pint of milk in a milk-boiler, 



396 



rRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



or in a saucepan set in a pan of hot water ; meantime, mix 
together by stirring them over the fire a tablespoonfi.il each 
of butter and flour, and, when they are smoothly blended, 
gradually stir the milk into them ; season the sauce rather 
highly with salt and white pepper ; let it boil for two minutes, 
and then use it with the boiled artichokes. If the sauce is 
made before the artichokes are done, keep it hot by placing 
the saucepan containing it in a pan of boiling water. 

Any other sauce suitable for vegetables may be served 
with the artichokes ; when cold they make a good salad. 

Cold boiled artichokes may be fried in butter, or scalloped 
with bread-crumbs and sauce, and browned in the oven. 

GLOBE ARTICHOKES. 

The large green artichokes • seen occasionally in market 
and at fruit-stores are the globe artichokes, which were for- 
merly as well-known and cultivated in this country as they 




Fresh Globe Artichohe, 



are now abroad. The accompanying cuts, copied from an 
English work, — Cassell's "Dictionary of Cookery," — repre- 
sent the full head and the section : the line C runs into the 



SALADS AjVD vegetables. 397 

bottom, ox fond; the line B into the choke, which is removed 
after the artichoke is blanched, by inserting a small spoon 




Section of Globe Artichoke. 

between the leaves from the top of the head ; the line A 
indicates the leaves themselves, the lower part of which is 
eaten when they are tender and succulent. 

GLOBE ARTICHOKES. BOILED. 

The accompanying illustration shows a dish of globe arti- 
chokes ready for the table. To prepare them, wash them in 
plenty of cold salted water, and unless they are very fresh 
let them remain in the water for some time ; boil them in 
enough salted boiling water to cover them until the leaves are 
tender where they join ihejond, or until a leaf can be pulled 
out easily ; then drain the artichokes, trim off the tops of 
the leaves, as shown in the picture, partly cut the artichokes 
through the centre, and remove the choke with a teaspoon ; 
work quickly, lest the artichokes become cold, and if they 
do, heat them in boiling water before serving them. Serve 
the artichokes with white sauce, Dutch or Hollandaise sauce, 
or with butter, salt, and pepper. These sauces are some- 
times put at each cover in a little cup, and every one pulls 



398 PRACTICAL AMERICA A' COOKERY. 

the leaves of the artichoke, and dips them in the sauce be- 
fore eating the succulent end : \\\*tfond, or bottom, is also 




Globe Artichokes, boiled. 

eaten. An excellent sauce is hot butter and lemon-juice, 
seasoned with salt and pepper; a plain salad-dressing of 
oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, is good with artichokes. 

DUTCH OR HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 

Make a pint of white sauce, as directed in the proper 
recipe ; while it is still hot, but not boiling, stir with it the 
yolks of two raw eggs, three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, and 
one of vinegar or lemon-juice, and serve it at once. Some 
cooks melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in the sauce in- 
stead of using the salad-oil. 

GREEN PEASE, BOILED. 

Shell a peck of fresh green pease ; if the pods are not 
clean, wash them before shelling, but do not wash the pease. 
Put the pease into two quarts of boiling water, containing a 
heaping tablespoonful of salt, and boil them fast for about 
ten minutes, or until they are tender — no longer; then 
drain them, season them palatably with salt, pepper, and 
butter, and serve them at once. A small bunch of green 
mint may be boiled with green pease which are to be served 
with lamb. Parsley and young onions are boiled with green 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 399 

pease when their flavor is desired. Sometimes a teaspoonful 
of sugar is added to green pease in seasoning them. 

SUGAR PEASE. 

Wash the pods, string them Uke string-beans, cut them in 
pieces about an inch long, and stew them gently with butter, 
allowing two tablespoonfuls to each quart of pease, and a 
palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and enough water 
to prevent burning. They will cook tender in from twenty 
to thirty minutes. Serve them in their sauce. 

CANNED PEASE. 

Open a can of green pease, drain them, wash them in cold 

water, drain them again ; put them in a saucepan with two 

tablespoonfuls of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter 

of a saltspoonful of pepper, and shake them over the fire 

' until they are hot ; then serve them at once. 

The small French canned pease can be quickly heated in 
the liquor in which they are preserved ; their flavor is much 
finer than that of any American brand at present marketed. 
Much discussion has resulted in an attempt on the part of 
the health-boards of several cities to exclude French canned 
pease from the American market, because a small quantity 
of copper enters into their preparation. It is but just to 
say that during fifteen years these pease have been used 
by the author, both in her household and school ; and in 
no instance has any bad result ensued, nor has she ever 
heard of an authentic instance where they have caused any 
injury to consumers. 

STRING-BEANS. 

Wash a quart of very young, tender string-beans, cut them 
diagonally in small strips, throw them into salted boiling 
water, and boil them fast for ten minutes, or until they are 



400 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

tender ; tlien drain them, and throw them into cold water ; 
melt over the fire two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, and 

squeeze the juice of a lemon ; when the beans are cold, drain 
them, put them into the hot butter, and heat them quickly ; 
season them palatably with salt and pepper, add the lemon- 
juice, and serve them at once. Omit the lemon-juice if the 
flavor is not desired. 

CANNED STRING-BEANS. 

Open a can of beans, drain, and wash them in cold water ; 
if they are quite tender, simply wash them ; if they are not, 
cook them until they are soft in salted boiling water, and 
then drain them ; then add to them two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful 
of pepper ; heat them, and serve them hot. 

STEWED BUTTER-BEANS. 

Remove the strings from a quart of butter-beans, and cut 
them in inch lengths ; put them over the fire with enough 
boiling water to cover them ; add two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and boil 
the beans for about twenty minutes, or until they are tender ; 
after the beans are placed on the fire, wash and chop fine a 
handful of parsley-leaves, and four young onions, and add 
them to the beans ; when the beans are tender, mix a table- 
spoonful each of butter and flour together without heating 
them, until they form a smooth paste ; then stir the paste 
with the beans ; see that they are palatably seasoned, let 
them boil for two or three minutes, and serve them hot. 

The parsley and onion can be omitted if their flavor is 
not desired. 

LIMA BEANS. 

Put a quart of shelled Lima beans over the fire, in suffi- 
cient boiling water to cover them, with a tablespoonful of 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 4OI 

salt, and boil them for about twenty minutes, or until they 
are tender ; then drain them ; add to them enough milk to 
cover them, a tablespoonful of butter, and a palatable sea- 
soning of salt and white pepper ; heat them quickly, and 
serve them hot. 

Lima beans may be simply boiled until tender in salted 
boiling water, then drained, and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
and butter, and served at once. 

Cold Lima beans can be fried in butter, with a palatable 
seasoning of salt and pepper ; or mashed and made into 
litde cakes, with an egg and salt and pepper, and then 
browned in butter. 

STEWED KIDNEY-BEANS. 

Pick over and wash a pint of dried red kidney-beans, put 
them over the fire in a quart of cold water, and heat them 
gradually. When the beans begin to boil, pour half a cup- 
ful of cold water over them to check the boiling. Every 
fifteen minutes put in half a cupful of cold water, and cook 
the beans gently until they are just tender. When the beans 
are tender,' drain them, add to them two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, half a level teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper ; heat them, and serve them hot. 

The beans may be soaked over night if there is time, and 
if so prepared will cook in about an hour. 

An excellent addition to stewed kidney-beans is a small 
onion, peeled, chopped fine, and fried yellow in the butter 
used for seasoning the beans. 

DRIED WHITE BEANS. 

Dried white beans are good cooked in the same way. 
The cold beans are excellent if fried with salt, pepper, and 
butter, either with or without chopped parsley or onion. 



402 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



GREEN CORN BOILED. 

Choose short, thick ears of fresh green com ; remove all 
the husk except the inner layer ; strip that down to remove 
all the silk from the corn and to permit the cutting away of 
any defective grains, and then replace it, and tie it at the 
upper end of each ear of corn. Have ready a large pot half 
full of actually boiling water ; put the corn into it, and boil it 
steadily for about twenty minutes if the ears are large, or 
fifteen if they are of medium size ; then take it from the 
boiling water, remove the strings, and serve it hot at once. 
If it seems desirable to strip off the inner husk before send- 
ing it to the table, this must be done very quickly, and the 
corn covered with a clean napkin to prevent the escape of 
the heat. Serve with the corn plenty of sweet butter, 
pepper, and salt. Sometimes the butter, pepper, and salt are 
mixed by heating them together, and then served in a hot 
gravy-bowl. 

The fresher the corn is, the sweeter it is ; it seems to lose 
its most delicate flavor after it has been gathered a few 
hours. 

HOW TO WARM COLD CORN. 

Cold boiled corn cut from the ear, and mixed with an 
equal quantity of cold potatoes chopped, can be fried witli 
salt, pepper, and butter ; or heated with cold stewed toma- 
toes, and served on toast. 

GREEN CORN ROASTED. 

Husk a dozen ears of corn, and remove the silk ; rub 
them with butter, season them with pepper and salt; lay 
them in a dripping-pan, and prop it up as close as possible 
to a clear hot fire ; occasionally turn the ears, and change 
their position in the pan, so that all may cook evenly; 
wlien they are browned, serve them hot at once. Or, pre- 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 403 

pare the corn as directed above, and then brown it in a 
very hot oven. 

GREEN CORN STEWED. 

Remove the husks and silk from a dozen ears of fresh 
green corn ; cut downward through the centre of each row 
of grains, and then scrape them out of the skin with the 
back of a knife ; when all are cut, put the corn into a sauce- 
pan, just cover it with boiling water, and boil it for twenty 
minutes. Mix to a smooth paste a tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour ; and when the corn has boiled for twenty 
minutes, add the butter and flour to it, together with half a 
pint of milk and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; 
let it boil again for three minutes, and then serve it. 

When cream is abundant, it may be used instead of the 
thickened milk. 

GREEN CORN PUDDING. 

Grate six large ears of green corn ; mix with the grated 
corn one heaping teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a salt- 
spoonful each of pepper and grated nutmeg, six eggs, and 
a pint and a half of milk ; put the pudding in a buttered 
earthen dish, and bake it in a moderate oven for half an 
hour. 

GREEN CORN GRIDDLE- CAKES AND FRITTERS. 

Grate enough green corn to fill a pint measure ; add to it 
one gill of milk, the yolks of two eggs not beaten, a level 
teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
flour enough to form a medium stiff batter, about half a cup- 
ful ; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff frotli, mix them 
lightly with the batter, and bake the griddle-cakes on a 
griddle or a frying-pan, using just enough fat to prevent 
burning. 

The same batter may be dropped by the tablespoonful 
into a kettle of smoking-hot fat, and fried golden brown; 
take the fritters thus made out of the fat with a skimmer, lay 



404 PRACTICAL AMERICAN CUOk'KRY. 

them on brown paper for a moment to free them from fat, 
and then serve them hot. 

SUCCOTASH. 

Use a quart each of corn cut from the cob, and shelled 
Lima beans ; put them over the fire in just enough boiHng 
water to cover them, with two teaspoonfuls of salt and half 
a saltspoonful of pepper, and boil them from twenty to 
thirty minutes, until the beans are tender ; meantime rub 
to a smooth paste two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of 
flour, and when the beans are nearly done stir this paste 
into the succotash, see that it is palatably seasoned, and 
finish cooking it. 

The flour may be omitted if a thick sauce is not desired. 
Sometimes a piece of salt pork is boiled with the succotash, 
and sent on a platter to. the table when the succotash is 
served. In place of the flour or salt pork, two eggs beaten 
smoothly with a cupful of milk may be added to the succo- 
tash just before serving it ; but it must not be allowed to boil 
again, or the eggs may harden. 

HOW TO CAN CORN. 

Choose very full ears of tender corn ; remove the husk 
and silk, cut the corn from the cob, and scrape the cob with 
the back of the knife ; pack glass jars with the corn, making 
them quite full, pressing the corn down, and then close them 
with the rubber and porcelain-lined covers ; put some laths 
across the bottom of a large boiler, and fill it with the jars of 
corn, laying a little straw or hay between the jars to keep 
them from striking against each other when they begin to 
boil ; jiour in enough cold water to half cover the jars, put 
the boiler over the fire, put a cloth over it, and fit on the 
cover of the boiler, and boil the corn steadily for three 
hours, taking care that there is water enough to furnish a 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 405 

full volume of steam ; then take up the jars, and screw the 
covers as tight as possible. When the jars are cold, again 
screw the covers', and keep the corn in a cool, dark place. 

DRIED CORN. 

Cut the grains from ears of tender corn, spread them on 
large sheets of paper in the sun, and dry them thoroughly ; 
or put them on pans in a cool oven, and dry them. After 
the corn is dried, keep it in a cool, dry place. When it is 
wanted for the table, soak it over night in enough water or 
milk to cover it, and the next day boil it tender in the same 
water ; season it with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve it 
hot. 

CANNED CORN, STEWED. 

Put the corn into a saucepan together with the liquor in 
which it is preserved, and cook it over a moderate fire until 
it is tender ; when the corn is tender, drain the liquor from 
it, and mix with the liquor enough milk to make up a pint ; 
mix together over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour until they bubble, then gradually stir into them the 
milk and liquid from the corn, add the corn also, and let it 
boil once ; season it palatably with salt and pepper, and 
serve it hot. 

DRIED CORN HULLED WITH LYE. 

Put a pint of clear wood-ashes in two quarts of cold water 
over the fire, and boil them for fifteen minutes ; then let the 
lye cool until the ashes settle at the bottom of the kettle, 
when the clear liquid is to be poured off and strained. Use 
enough of the lye thus made, mixed with an equal quantity 
of cold water, to cover the dried corn ; put the corn and 
lye-water over the fire, and boil them until the hulls begin to 
break off the corn ; then drain the corn, throw it into cold 
water, and rub it between the hands, through several waters, 



406 PRACriCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

until the hulls are all removed ; it will then be ready to cook 
as samp. 

DRIED CORN HULLED WITH SALERATUS. 

Cover two quarts of dried corn with cold water, add a 
tablespoonful of saleratus, and boil the corn until the hulls 
crack and begin to curl up ; then wash the corn three or 
four times in cold water, rubbing it between the hands to 
free it from the husks or hulls ; after all the hulls are re- 
moved, boil the corn in salted boiling water, or milk and 
water, until it is tender ; then season it palatably with pepper 
and butter, and serve it as a vegetable ; or use it with milk 
or cream and sugar for breakfast or supper. 

The cold boiled samp is excellent fried with butter or 
heated in milk. 

STEWED HOMINY. 

Wash a cupful ,of hominy, put it over the fire in two 
quarts of cold water, and slowly heat and boil it gently for 
about four hours, or until it is quite soft ; then drain it, and 
place it where the water will evaporate while a cream gravy 
is being made as follows : Put over the fire two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, and partly melt them ; when the butter is 
quite soft, gradually stir with it half a pint of cream or an 
equal quantity of milk ; if the cream is used, add it to the 
hominy as soon as it is hot ; if milk is used, take it off the 
fire when it is hot, stir with it the yolks of two raw eggs, and 
mix it with the hominy ; serve the hominy directly the milk 
or cream is added to it, remembering that the eggs used 
with the milk will curdle if the hominy is allowed to boil 
after they are added to it. 

SUCCOTASH FROM DRIED SAMP AND BEANS. 

Use for this dish dried samp and dried Lima beans. Soak 
the samp and beans over night in cold water, in separate 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 407 

bowls. In the morning boil the samp as directed in the 
recipe for stewed hominy ; put an equal quantity of the 
beans over the iire in fresh cold water, in another saucepan, 
and let them boil gently until they are tender, but not at all 
broken ; then place a saucepan containing them where they 
will keep hot, without boiling, until the samp is done. When 
both samp and beans are tender, drain them nearly dry, put 
them together over the fire, season them palatably with salt 
and pepper, add a heaping teaspoonful of butter to each 
quart of succotash, and heat it ; serve the succotash hot. 

SUCCOTASH OF DRIED CORN AND BEANS 

Pick over a pint each of dried sweet corn and small white 
dried beans, and soak them over night in separate bowls of 
water, putting the water upon the vegetables while it is warm ; 
tlie next morning wash a pound of salt pork in cold water, 
put it over the fire in two quarts of cold water, with the 
beans, and boil it slowly for an hour ; then add the corn, 
and continue the boiling until both vegetables are tender ; 
when the vegetables are tender, take out the pork to serve 
with the succotash, and put it on a separate dish ; drain off 
nearly all the water from the vegetables ; add a tablespoonful 
each of butter and sugar, milk enough to cover them, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; heat the succo- 
tash, and then serve it with the pork. 

OYSTER-PLANT WITH CREAM. 

Scrape a bunch of tender oyster-plant, putting the roots, 
as they are scraped, in cold water to which a little vinegar 
has been added ; cut the oyster-plant in pieces, put it over 
the fire in salted boiling water, and boiU it for about twenty 
minutes, or until it is tender ; then drain ii ; add a table- 
spoonful of butter, cream enough to cover it, and a palatable 



408 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

seasoning of salt and white pepper. Serve it as soon as the 
cream is hot. The cream may be omitted if desired. 

After oyster-plant has been boiled, it can be mashed 
tlirough a colander, with a palatable seasoning of salt, pep- 
per, and butter, and heated and. served ; or mashed and 
made into little cakes, and browned in butter ; or scalloped, 
with the addition of bread-crumbs and seasoning, and 
browned in a hot oven, 

SEA-KALE. 

The stalk of sea-kale, when cooked, is somewhat like as- 
paragus ; the growing plant has thick stalks and large leaves, 
like pie-plant, which take on a purplish-green color when 
exposed to sun and air. Like celery and pie-plant, sea-kale 
must be blanched while growing, or the taste will be bitter ; 
and it must be kept in a dark place after it is cut. The 
kale grows in roots with stalks attached, like celery. To 
prepare it for cooking, the roots and large leaves must be 
trimmed off, the plants thoroughly washed in cold salted 
water, and then tied up like asparagus. The young shoots 
are the best, but the stalks or midribs of the leaves are good 
if they are white and crisp. When the stalks are tied up, 
put them into salted boiling water, aiid boil them until they 
are tender, which will be in about twenty minutes, if the 
kale is good ; then drain them, and dress them with salt, 
pepper, butter, and a little lemon-juice, and serve them hot ; 
or serve the kale on toast, like asparagus. Any sauce suit- 
able for asparagus will be excellent for sea-kale. 

ASPARAGUS. 

If fresh asparagus is used, wash it, and scrape the stalks, 
and, as f^ir as they are tender, cut them into inch pieces ; 
boil them until tender in salted boiling water ; then drain 
them, and throw them into cold water; if canned aspara- 



..M 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 409 

gus is used, simply drain it, and pour boiling water over it ; 
about ten minutes before dinner-time, drain the asparagus 
from the boiling water, put it into a saucepan with sufificient 
sweet cream to cover it, season it palatably with salt and 
white pepper, heat it, and serve it at once on delicate slices 
of toast. Or, heat the asparagus with salt, pepper, and but- 
ter, after it is boiled. 

ASPARAGUS WITH DUTCH SAUCE. 

After washing asparagus, scrape off the woody portion of 
the stalks, or cut it off entirely, and tie the asparagus in 
small bunches ; put it over the fire in salted boiling water, 
and boil it until it is tender ; then drain it, and serve it on 
a napkin, or on toast, sending a dish of white or Dutch 
sauce, or- melted butter, to the table with it. The toast 
served under asparagus is designed to absorb the water from 
it. To make Dutch or HoUandaise sauce, put over the fire 
a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and stir them until 
they bubble, then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water ; 
when the sauce boils, season it palatably with salt and white 
pepper, and draw the saucepan to the side of the fire where 
the sauce cannot boil ; then stir in three tablespoonfuls of 
oil, drop by drop, or two tablespoonfuls of butter, one table- 
spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice, and finally the yolks of 
two raw eggs ; serve the sauce as soon as the eggs are added, 
because it will be apt to curdle if it stands until the eggs are 
cooked. • 

Boiled asparagus, served either hot or cold, with tnayon- 
naise, is delicious. 

SUGAR BEETS BOILED. 

Carefully wash the beets, without closely trimming the 
leaves or roots or breaking the skin ; put them over the fire 
in a large pot half full of boiling water, and boil them until 



4IO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

they are tender, wliich will be in al)Oiit three-quarters of an 
hour if they are small, an hour if of medium size, and longer 
if they are large ; all new beets will usually cook in about 
two hours' time, even if (juite large. 

When the beets are done, rub off their skins with a wet 
towel, slice them, dress them with salt, pepper, and butter, 
and serve them at once. 

Vinegar may be added to them at discretion ; and they 
may be allowed to stand in it long enough to become satu- 
rated with it, then being used hot or cold. 

Red beets may be cooked in the same way. After beets 
are boiled, they can be cut in dice, and heated in white sauce ; 
or scalloped with white sauce and bread-crumbs, and browned 
in the oven ; or covered with cold vinegar and pickled. 

NEW TURNIPS. 

Peel and slice a quart of new turnips ; boil them in salted 
boiUng water until they can be mashed ; then drain and 
mash them, season them with salt, pepper, and plenty of 
butter, and then stir them over the fire constantly until all 
the water has evaporated, and serve them. 

Instead of mashing the boiled turnips, they can be cut in 
dice and heated in white sauce, or milk, or simply with salt, 
pepper, and butter. Cold boiled turnips, mixed with an 
equal quantity of cold potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
and butter, and fried, make a good vegetable for luncheon. 

CARROTS. 

Boil two large carrots until tender in salted boiling water, 
after having washed and scraped them ; when they are just 
tender, cut them in half-inch squares, or in fancy shapes with 
a vegetable-scoop, several of which are shown in the engrav- 
ings given elsewhere ; put over the fire in a saucepan one 
tablespoonful each of butter and Hour, and stir them until 



SALA/)S AND VEGETABLES. 411 

they bubble, then gradually stir with them a pint of boiling 
milk, and let the sauce thus made boil once ; season it with 
a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pep- 
per, and a very littk grated nutmeg ; heat the carrots in this 
sauce, and serve them. 

Boiled carrots can be heated with salt, pepper, and butter ; 
or with some chopped parsley; or with white sauce con- 
taining the yolk of a raw egg, care being taken not to boil 
the egg. Cold boiled carrots are good if fried in butter. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Many persons who like this excellent, fungus are afraid to 
eat it because accidents have occurred from its use ; but 
care will. guard against such danger, both with fresh and 
canned mushrooms. 

There is no danger to be apprehended in using the canned 
mushrooms, if, when the can is opened, the mushrooms look 
clean and perfect, of a light buff color, without any dark or 
defective spots ; the liquid in the can should be clear, that 
is, not thick, and slightly colored by the mushrooms. The 
interior of the cans should be bright and clean, not dark or 
rusted ; if there is the slightest appearance of discoloration 
or verdigris on the inside of the can, or near any joint in 
the tin in the can, the mushrooms- contained in it might 
prove injurious. So far as the mushrooms themselves are 
concerned, it is almost an impossibility for a poisonous one 
to be present in a can, because they are raised in so-called 
mushroom caves or cellars, from seed or rather spawn, which 
is prepared from exhausted mushroom beds : under these 
circumstances, it is almost impossible even for a poisonous 
mushroom to spring iri a bed ; but if it did, its color, size, 
and general appearance would indicate its character, and it 
would at once be destroyed. The growers of mushrooms 
exercise a great care in the cultivation of the vegetable and 



412 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

in its preparation for the market. The few instances known 
of poisoning from the use of canned mushrooms have been 
traced to carelessness in their preparation ; the cooking 
having been done in unclean utensils, or in copper vessels 
from which the tin lining is worn, or the cooked mushrooms 
have been allowed to stand over night in a metal vessel. 

The fresh mushrooms which are brought to city markets 
are generally raised in mushroom beds, by professional 
gardeners, who are perfectly conversant with all the charac- 
teristics of the vegetable ; and so there is but little danger 
possible in using them. The fresh mushrooms sold during 
the summer and early fall in the markets are usually gath- 
ered in the fields and pastures by persons who know the 
varieties of fungi, and who discard all except the agaricus 
campestris, or field mushroom. 

The fungi grow in form of a pileiis or cap, upon a short, 
stout stem, covered with a thin epidermis, and generally 
divided beneath into radiated gills, which are the seed- 
bearing organs. Form and appearance safely indicate the 
innocuous or harmful qualities of the mushrooms, but the 
test of tasting may be applied if one need be exercised. If 
a small part of the cap, eaten with a little salt, does not cause 
a burning or stinging sensation in the throat or stomach, and 
if the taste is pleasant and agreeable, the variety may be 
used. If this test shows the presence of a poisonous matter, 
by tlie burning sensation, the peril can be averted by a free 
use of common salt, followed by emetics and castor-oil. It 
should be remembered, that a perfectly good fungus, which 
is in excellent eating order when gathered, may decay and 
become unfit for food in a few hours ; and therefore all spe- 
cies should be eaten or preserved when fresh. The most 
familiar of all the edible fungi is the agaric. With the best- 
known variety, the agaricus campestris (the true meadow 
mushroom, or pink-gill), every lover of good dinners is ac- 



SALADS A.V/> \-EGKTABLKS. 413 

quainted, as this is the cJiaiiipignoii cultivated extensively in 
Europe, and imported largely into this country in cans. It 
is often met with in our own markets. Its color is white, its 
gills pink when fresh, gradually turning brown after gathering. 
Its cap, from three to six inches in diameter, is plump and 
white, or cream-color, covered with a fine down ; and its flesh 
is firm and white, with a pinkish tinge. The stem bears a well- 
defined white ring, which disappears as the mushroom dries. 

In bright, open, sunny pastures, the mushrooms disappear 
after the sun is high, and searchers for them seek their evan- 
escent treasures early in the day : in more shaded localities, 
where there is much moisture, they sometimes grow until 
nightfall. In the mushroom caves and in the gardeners' hot- 
beds, where they are sheltered from the direct rays and heat 
of the sun, they seem to last longer, and to attain a larger 
growth ; but their flavor is less intense than that of the out- 
door mushroom : there is almost as much difference in the 
flavor of cultivated and field-grown mushrooms as there is 
between the flavor of poultry and game-birds. However, 
during an experiment made in raising mushrooms in the 
cellar of a New- York house, specimens from two to six 
inches diameter in the cap, firm in texture, and of full, high 
flavor, were raised, some of them growing in the beds for two 
or three days : it may be mentioned here, that from one spot 
about the size of a man's hand, in the angle of the wall, a 
group was gathered which weighed a pound and a half. 

At first the mushroom appears as a tiny white knob, close 
to the ground ; it quickly grows, the cap frequently being ex- 
panded in the morning and the decay complete by night, out 
of doors ; the little white knob expands until the under side 
gradually opens, permitting the fringe-like gills to appear ; 
as the cap breaks away from the stem, it leaves the rough 
ring where it joined the stem, and this gradually dries up. 
The gills are of a delicate pink, a sort of salmon-color ; as 



414 



PRAC J'/C.ir. AMKRICAN COOKKRY. 



the mushroom grows, the color of the gills deepens gradually 
til rough the shades of brown, and finally, when the mushroom 
is a day old, becomes quite black, and, as gradually, the 
substance of the mushroom loses its first crisp, fleshy con- 
sistence, and becomes withered and fibrous ; under favorable 
conditions of quick, dry, artificial heat, it slowly dries, ordi- 
narily it decays. The flavor of the meadow mushroom is 



y 







Meaioiu Mushroom with 
Gills and Spores. 

sweet and nutty, while that of poisonous varieties is sharp 
and acrid. The poisonous mushrooms have not the charac- 
teristic pink gills of the harmless sort. A favorite popular 
test is to cook with the mushrooms a white onion peeled, or 
a silver spoon, and, if either turns black, to avoid the mush- 
rooms as poisonous. 

The accompanying picture shows the meadow mushroom, 
or pink-gill, in its stages of growth from the tiny seed or spore, 
which is concealed among the gills, to the full-grown cap. 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 415 



FRESH MUSHROOMS BROILED. 

Wash the mushrooms in plenty of cold salted water, trim- 
ming off all defective or bruised portions ; cut off the roots, 
and if there are plenty of mushrooms, separate the stems 
and caps, saving the latter to stew or fry ; lay the caps on a 
dripping-pan or baking-sheet set on top of the stove, with 
the gills uppermost ; put a small piece of butter, a little 
pepper and salt, in each cap, and let them stay over the fire 
until the butter melts ; then serve them on toast. 

FRESH MUSHROOMS BAKED. 

Carefully cleanse the mushrooms as directed in the recipe 
for broiled mushrooms ; cut as many slices of bread as there 
are mushroom caps, trimming off the crusts, and having each 
slice about two inches square ; lay them in a baking-pan ; 
spread each slice of bread with butter, put on each one a 
little pepper and salt; on each shce of bread put one or 
more mushroom caps, enough to cover the bread ; put the 
pan in a hot oven for five minutes, then season the mush- 
rooms with salt and pepper ; put a piece of butter as large 
as a hazel-nut on the mushrooms contained on each slice 
of bread; return the pan to the oven, and finish baking 
the mushrooms, which are to be served on the bread as soon 
as they are tender. 

Fresh mushrooms may be breaded and fried. 

MUSHROOM STEMS STEWED. 

Use the stems of the mushrooms when the caps have 
been already cooked ; cut them in rather small pieces ; put 
them over the fire with a heaping tablespoonful of butter 
to a pint of stems, together with a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper, and stew them gently until they are tender ; 
have ready delicate toast, and serve the mushrooms on it. 



4l6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Or, mince them, and scallop them with an equal quantity 
of bread-crumbs, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pepper, and brown them in a hot oven. 

TO DRY FRESH MUSHROOMS. 

After carefully cleansing the mushrooms by washing them 
in plenty of cold salted water, and trimming off the defec- 
tive portions, spread them on sheets of stout paper laid in 
dripping-pans ; set the pans in the sun, or in a cool oven, 
and gradually dry them until all tjie moisture is evaporated 
from them. After the mushrooms are dried, tlioroughly 
pack them in a tin can with a tight cover, and keep them in 
a cool, dry place. 

MUSHROOM POWDER. 

Wash three or four quarts of fresh mushrooms, carefully 
trim away all defective parts, and put them into a saucepan 
without water, together with two large onions peeled, a level 
teaspoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns, two 
blades of mace, and two saltspoonfuls of pepper ; heat the 
mushrooms, and slowly simmer them until they absorb all 
the liquid they yield ; be very careful not to allow them to 
burn ; and when they are stewed nearly dry, spread them on 
pans, and put them in a moderate oven to dry ; when they 
are quite dry, beat or grind them to a powder. Put up the 
powder in tin cans or tightly corked bottles, so that all air 
is excluded, and keep them in a cool, dry place. A tea- 
spoonful of mushroom powder flavors a pint of sauce ; the 
flavor of mushrooms resembles that of meat. 

CANNED MUSHROOMS. WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

After opening the can, carefully drain the liquor or essence 
from the mushrooms, saving it to add to the sauce ; put in a 
saucepan over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour, and stir them until they are smoothly blended, then 



SALADS AXD VEGETABLES. 



417 



gradually stir in the mushroom essence or liquor from the 
can, and then add sufificient cream to make a sauce of the 
consistency of gravy ; put the mushrooms into this sauce, 
season them palatably with salt and pepper, and when they 
are hot, serve them as a vegetable. Toast may be served 
under them if it is desirable to increase the size of the dish. 



MORELS. 

Morels are a variety of mushroom frequently found under 
the trees upon old lawns, and in rather open woods. The 
accompanying engraving shows the appearance of fresh 




Morel and Spore. 



morels ; when dried, they look very much like a piece of 
brown sponge ; the color of fresh morels is pale buff, and of 
dried ones brown ; the height is from three to five inches ; 
as no poisonous fungus resembles them, they may be eaten 



41 8 PRACTICAL AMEKICAiV COOKERY. 

with safety. After carefully washing the morels, and trim- 
ming off the roots, cook them according to any of the 
recipes given for cooking mushrooms. 

STUFFED MORELS. 

After cleansing the morels, cut them at the bottom far 
enough to admit a forcemeat of cold chopped meat and 
bread, highly seasoned, or of pardy cooked sausage-meat ; 
close them with a sliver of wood or a small metal skewer ; 
lay them on small slices of bread, and place them in a mod- 
erate oven to bake for about ten minutes, or until tender ; 
serve them on the toast, very hot. 

MUSHROOM BROWN SAUCE. 

For a can of mushrooms, put into a saucepan a heaping 
tablespoonful each of butter and flour; stir them together 
over the fire until they begin to brown, then gradually stir in 
the liquor from the can, adding water if any is needed to 
make the sauce of the proper consistency ; add the mush- 
rooms, season the sauce palatably with salt, pepper, and very 
little grated nutmeg ; when the mushrooms are hot, stir in a 
wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, and serve the mushrooms 
as a vegetable. 

Toast may be served under them to increase the size of 
the dish ; or the sauce and mushrooms may be poured on 
a dish with broiled beefsteak or broiled chicken, or with a 
baked or ro^isted tenderloin of beef. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS ON TOAST. 

Peel two cucumbers, and slice them lengthwise about an 
eighth of an inch thick ; put over the fire in a large frying-pan 
two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, and when it browns put 
in the cucumbers, and fry them brown ; while they are being 
fried, make as many slices of toast as there are pieces of 



Ji 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 419 

cucumber, butter them, and keep them hot ; when the cu- 
cumbers are done, serve them on the toast, very hot. 

CUCUMBERS STUFFED WITH MARROW. 

Peel half a dozen large cucumbers, split them lengthwise, 
and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon ; with the seeds 
and their surrounding j)ulp, mix an equal quantity each of 
bread-crumbs and chopped marrow, and a high seasoning 
of salt and pepper ; stuff the cucumbers with this forcemeat, 
laying the halves together, and securing them in place by 
running small wooden skewers entirely through them ; put 
the stuffed cucumbers into an earthen dish just large enough 
to hold them, pour over them sufficient meat-gravy to cover 
them, and bake them in a moderate oven for half an hour, 
or until they are tender ; then remove the skewers, and serve 
the cucumbers hot. 

If there is no gravy on hand, make some as follows : — 
Put one tablespoonful each of butter and flour in a sauce- 
pan, and stir them over the fire until they are light brown ; 
then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water, season the gravy 
palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil for a minute, and 
then use it. 

EGG-PLANT FRIED IN BUTTER. 

Peel and slice the egg-plant, let it lie in salt for an hour, 
and then roll the slices in dry flour seasoned with salt and 
pepper ; put a large pan over the fire with enough butter to 
cover the bottom to the depth of half an inch thick when 
melted ; when the butter is smoking hot, put in the egg- 
plant, fry it brown on both sides, and serve it hot. 

EGG-PLANT FRIED IN BATTER. 

Peel, slice, and salt the egg-plant as directed in the recipe 
for egg-plant fried in butter ; also have ready the frying-ket- 
tle half full of hot fat; mix together in a large bowl four 



420 PRACTICAL AM ERICA X COOk'ERY. 

tablespoonfuls of salt, a rjuarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, 
the yolk of a raw egg, and a tablespoonful of salad-oil or 
melted butter ; in another bowl beat the white of the egg 
to a stiff froth ; when ready to fry the egg-plant, put the 
white of the egg into the batter, dry the slices of egg-plant 
on a clean cloth, dip them in the batter, and fry them brown 
in the hot fat ; when they are done, put them on brown 
paper for a moment to free them from grease, and then 
serve them hot. 

SCALLOPED EGG-PLANT. 

Peel an egg-plant of medium size, slice it quarter of an 
inch thick, sprinkle each slice with salt, lay them in a deep 
bowl, and let them stand in a cool place for au hour. Soak 
a pint-bowl full of stale bread in cold water. Fry the egg- 
plant in a large frying-pan containing smoking-hot fat half an 
inch deep ; when one side is brown, turn the slices, and 
brown the other side ; when each slice is brown, remove it 
from the frying-pan with a skimmer, and lay it on a dish. 
When all the egg-plant is fried, put four tomatoes, peeled 
and sliced, into the same frying-pan, adding two tablespoon- 
fuls of fat if there is not that quantity in the pan, and fry 
them for five minutes ; then squeeze the bread in a colander 
to remove any excess of water, add it to the tomatoes, sea- 
son the mixture higlily with salt and pepper, using also a 
little cayenne-pepper, and stir it over the fire until it is 
scalding hot. If fresh tomatoes are not at hand, tomato- 
sauce or canned tomatoes can be used. When the bread 
and tomatoes are scalding hot, put them into a baking-dish 
in layers with the fried egg-plant, dust some bread-crumbs 
or cracker-dust over the top, season them with salt and pep- 
per, put over them in small pieces about a tablespoonful of 
butter, and set the dish in a very hot oven until the crumbs 
are brown ; then serve it hot. Cold fried egg-plant can be 
used for this dish. 



•^ 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 42 1 

BAKED EGG-PLANT. 

Cut a medium-sized egg-plant in halves, score it deeply on 
both sides, and rub plenty of salt and pepper into, the cuts ; 
put it into a pan with a heaping tablespoonful of butter 
spread over it, and bake it until it is tender ; serve it with 
the gravy it yields poured over it. 

Or, after cutting the egg-plant, scoop out most of the nr- 
terior, mince it fine, add an equal quantity of bread-crumbs 
to it, season it highly with salt, pepper, and butter, and put 
the mixture again into the rind, heaping each half; set the 
halves of the egg-plant in an earthen dish which can be 
sent to the table, and bake it until it is tender, then serve 
it hot. 

BOILED CABBAGE. 

Wash a medium-sized head of cabbage in plenty of salted 
cold water, and trim away the woody part of the stalk ; have 
ready over the fire a very large pot containing five or six 
quarts of salted boiling water ; put the cabbage into this 
boiling water, place the pot over the hottest part of the 
fire, and bring its contents to the boihng-point as fast as 
possible. 

Leave the pot uncovered, and every two or three minutes 
press the cabbage under the boiling water with a wooden 
spoon. Do not let the cabbage stop boiling for one instant ; 
boil it steadily and rapidly for ten minutes ; then try one of 
the thickest stalks with a sharp knife ; if it is tender, — just 
tender, without being at all watery, — drain the cabbage at 
once ; if it is not quite tender, let it boil a few minutes 
longer, but only until it is tender, and then drain it ; serve 
it hot at once, with a palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, 
and butter. Or have ready a pint of white sauce, for which 
directions are given elsewhere ; pour it over the cabbage 
after it is drained, and serve it hot at once. 



422 PRACTICAL AMEKICAX COUK/:l<V. 

FRIED CABBAGE. 

Chop cold boiled cabbage, press out all the moisture, add 
half a cupful of cream to a quart-bowl full of cabbage, and 
season it with salt and pepper ; put two tablespoonfuls of 
butter in a frying-pan over the fire, let it get smoking hot, 
put in the cabbage, and brown it quickly on the under side ; 
as soon as the cabbage is browned, turn it upside down on a 
hot dish, and serve it. 

RED CABBAGE, STEWED. 

Thoroughly wash a head of red cabbage, cut the leaves 
apart, and trim off any hard, fibrous portion of the stalk ; 
peel and slice one onion, put it over the fire in a saucepan 
with a tablespoonful of butter, a cupful of cold gravy, half 
a saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; next 
put in the cabbage, pour four tablespoonfuls of vinegar over 
it, cover the saucepan closely, and cook the cabbage gently 
for an hour or longer, until it is tender, stirring it occasion- 
ally. Serve it hot. 

SA UERKRA UT. 

Trim off the defective and tough outer leaves of white 
cabbage, wash it thoroughly in cold salted water, and shave 
it rather fine on a cabbage-cutter, rejecting the tough stalks ; 
to each peck of cabbage, allow a pint of fine salt ; wash the 
outer green leaves of the cabbage in cold salted water, and 
use them to line a wooden tub or firkin ; put the cabbage 
into the firkin in layers with the salt, beating the layers of 
cabbage with a potato-masher until all of it is tightly packed 
down ; put a board over the cabbage with a heavy stone on 
it, and let it stand for at least six weeks, when it will be 
ready to use. 

To prepare the sauerkraut for boiling, soak it in plenty of 
cold water until it is only palatably salty ; put the sauerkraut 



SALADS AXD VEGETABLES. 423 

over the fire in boiling water, or in the same pot in which 
bacon, pickled pork, or smoked sausage is boihng, and boil 
it until it is tender ; to serve the sauerkraut, drain it, put it 
on a dish, lay the meat on it, and serve them together. 
When the sauerkraut is cooked without meat, it is simply 
served as a vegetable. 

Cold sauerkraut may be chopped and fried in butter, or 
heated with a white sauce or gravy. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Trim off the leaves of a firm head of cauliflower, and 
wash it thoroughly in plenty of cold water in which a hand- 
ful of salt has been dissolved ; if any insects are visible 
between the branches of the cauliflower, let it soak in the 
salted water, with the flowerets down, for an hour ; the salt 
will kill the insects, and they will fall down into the water. 
About three-quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, and 
a quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper into a perfectly 
clean saucepan large enough to hold the cauliflower ; take 
it from the water, and put it at once into the saucepan with- 
out draining it ; cover it closely, set it over a gentle fire, and 
let it simmer and steam until tender, which will be in about 
half an hour. Then, without breaking it, take it up on a 
hot dish ; let the butter and water in which it was cooked 
boil very fast for a minute, and then pour it over the cauli- 
flower, and serve it. If a thick sauce is liked, mix a tea- 
spoonful of flour or corn-starch, dissolved in half a cupful 
of cold water, with the butter and water, boil it for two 
minutes, stirring it constantly, and then serve it with the 
cauliflower. • 

Cauliflower, after it is carefully washed, may be boiled 
until tender, and then drained, and served with white sauce ; 
or covered with sauce and bread-crumbs, and browned in a 



424 PKACIJCAL AMERICAX COOKJ.RV. 

hot oven ; or, when the heads are small and. defective, either 
boiled and served in branches, instead of entire, or mashed 
through a colander, and heated with salt, pepper, and 
butter. 

Cold boiled cauliflower is very good fried plain in butter, 
or breaded in branches and fried ; or mashed and fried like 
oyster-plant, with the addition of an egg, and a palatable 
seasoning of salt and pepper. 

SPINACH. 

Trim ofT the roots and tough stalks of half a peck of 
spinach, wash it in plenty of cold salted water until it is 
quite free from sand, put it over the fire in salted boiling 
water enough to cover it, and boil it fast for three minutes 
or longer, until it is just tender ; do not allow it to become 
soft and watery ; drain the spinach, throw it into a large 
pan of cold water until it is cool, then chop it very fine, or 
rub it through a colander with a potato-masher ; put it again 
over the fire to heat, with a palatable seasoning of butter, 
salt, and pepper ; while the spinach is being heated, poach 
half a dozen eggs soft, and when it is dished lay them upon 
it, and serve the dish hot. 

The spinach may be served without the eggs. Boiled 
spinach is good dressed with white sauce or gravy, or fried 
with butter, either with or without the addition of a very 
little grated onion. 

BOILED TURNIP-TOPS. 

Thoroughly wash a peck of turnip-tops, put them over 
the fire in plenty of salted boiling water, and boil them fast 
for ten minutes, or until they are just tender ; then drain 
them, season them with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve 
them hot. 



-^ 



SALADS AA'D VEGETABLES. 



425 



BOILED CELERY. 

Carefully wash half a dozen heads of celery without break- 
ing them apart, trim off the roots and green stalks, as shown 




Celertf Trimmed for Boiling. 

in the annexed cut ; boil the celery in salted boiling water 
until it is just tender, but not until it begins to break, and 
then drain it, and serve it with any sauce preferred. 




Boiled Celery. ' 

The celery is dished on toast, like asparagus, or served 
with the sauce poured over it, as shown in the accompanying 
picture. 

BUTTER AND LEMON SAUCE. 

Butter and lemon sauce, made as follows, is good with 
boiled celery : Melt four tablespoonfuls of butter by very 



426 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

gentle heat ; squeeze the juice of two lemons, and take away 
the seeds ; break two eggs, separating the yolks from the 
whites. When the butter is melted, add it gradually to the 
egg-yolks, and stir them together over the fire until they 
begin to thicken ; take the sauce from the fire directly it 
begins to thicken, and stir in the lemon-juice, together with 
a level saltspoonful of salt and a dust of cayenne-pepper ; 
serve the sauce as soon as it is made. 

CELERY WITH REMOULADE SAUCE. 

The white stalks of celery are to be carefully trimmed, 
washed in cold salted water, cut in inch lengths, and served 
with a reinoulade sauce. 

GERMAN REMOULADE SAUCE. 

To make revwulade sauce, peel and grate a medium-sized 
white onion ; rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs through 
a sieve with a potato-masher, add to them a level teaspoon- 
ful of dry mustard, a level tablespoonful of sugar, two table- 
spoonfuls of oil, the grated onion, four tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, and a palatable seasoning of salt and cayenne. 
Mix all these ingredients smoothly, and use them with the 
celery. 

GREEN REMOULADE SAUCE. 

Use any or all the following green herbs if they can 
be obtained : tarragon, chervil, or curled parsley, parsley, 
burnet, chives, or young green onions, a handful of each ; 
after washing them in cold water, put them in salted boiling 
water, and boil them for two minutes, then drain them, put 
them into cold water for a moment, again drain them, and 
rub them through a sieve with a potato-masher ; mix them 
with the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a 
sieve, a tablespoonful of vinegar, three of salad-oil, and a 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 427 

palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; after the sauce is 
made, keep it very cold until it is served. 

CELERY FRITTERS. 

Cut half a dozen white stalks of celery about two inches 
long ; boil them until tender in boiling water and salt, dip 
them in the following batter, and then fry them a golden 
brown in smoking-hot fat. To make the batter, mix together 
smoothly the yolk of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of salad-oil, a 
little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of flour, 
and enough cold water to make a batter stiff enough to hold 
the drops from a spoon ; just before using the batter, stir 
into it the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth. Fry the 
fritters just before they are required for use, laying them on 
brown paper for a moment after taking them from the hot 
fat, in order to free them from the grease, and sprinkling 
them lightly with salt. 

FRIED PARSLEY. 

Choose full stalks cf parsley, carefully remove all imper- 
fect or decayed leaves, wash it well in plenty of salted cold 
water, and spread it on a clean towel to dry. When it is 
quite free from water, gather the stalks in the right hand, and 
quickly dip the leaves into smoking-hot fat for a moment to 
crisp them. If the parsley is put into the fat with any 
moisture on it, a cloud of steam will arise, and there will be 
great danger of burning the hand seriously ; but if it is care- 
fully dried the operation can be performed with perfect 
safety. 

Fried parsley is used as a garnish for fritters, croquettes, or 
any fried dish. 

OKRA. 

Cut the stems from a quart of young okra, wash the pods 
in cold water, put them over the fire in enough salted boil- 



428 PRAC'J'/CAI. AA/Eh'/CAX COOKERY. 

ing water to cover them, and boil them for twenty minutes, 
or longer, until tender ; then drain them, add to them two 
heaping tablespoonfirh; of butter, a high seasoning of salt 
and pepper, and heat them thoroughly ; after the okra is 
hot, serve as a vegetable. 

Tomatoes and corn, or Lima beans, are frequendy stewed 
with okra ; the seasoning being salt, pepper, and butter. 

Fried or broiled ham is often served with okra, as is also 
fried chicken. 

GREEN PEPPERS. STUFFED AND BAKED. 

Wash half a dozen large green peppers, put them into 
boiling water, and boil them for five minutes ; then take 
them from the water, and rub off the skins with a wet cloth ; 
cut off the stem ends, remove the seeds with a small spoon, 
and stuff the peppers with any kind of cold meat minced 
fine, mixed with an equal quantity of stale bread softened 
'with cold water, and seasoned with salt ; replace the stems, 
set the peppers in a deep earthen ])late or dish, pour in as 
much cold gravy as the dish will hold, and bake the peppers 
in a moderate oven for half an hour. They may be stuffed 
with sausage-meat and bread. Serve them in the dish in 
which they were baked. 

Cheese is grated and mixed with bread-crumbs for stuff- 
ing peppers ; and they are subsequently fried instead of 
being baked. 

STUFFED TOMATOES. 

Fry a quarter of a pound of sausages or sausage-meat ; 
wash a dozen ripe, firm tomatoes of medium size ; cut a 
small slice from the stem end of each one, and scoop out 
the interior with a teaspoon ; chop this part of the tomatoes 
fine, mix it thoroughly with the fried sausage, season the 
force-meat thus made highly with salt and pepper, and then 
use it to stuff the tomatoes ; set the stuffed tomatoes in a 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 42C) 

dripping-pan just large enough to hold them, dust cracker 
or bread crumbs over the tops, put a very small bit of but- 
ter on each one, and then bake them for half an hour in a 
hot oven ; remove them from the dripping-pan to a hot 
platter, without breaking them, and serve them hot, with 
a gravy made as follows : After dishing the tomatoes, set 
the dripping-pan in which they were baked over the fire, 
stir into it a tablespoonful of dry flour, and let it brown ; 
then stir in a pint of boiling water ; season the gravy highly 
with salt and pepper, let it boil for a minute, and then serve 
it with the stuffed tomatoes. 

FRIED TOMATOES WITH BROWN GRAVY. 

Choose very firm, ripe tomatoes ; wipe them with a wet 
cloth, slice them half an inch thick, and cover them with 
flour seasoned with salt and pepper ; put a dripping-pan 
over the fire with enough lard to be half an inch deep when 
melted, and let it get smoking hot; when the fat is hot, 
put into it as many tomatoes as will lie flat in the pan, and 
quickly brown them on both sides, turning them carefully 
without breaking them ; when they are done, transfer them 
to a hot dish, and fry more in the same way ; when all the 
tomatoes are fried, pour out of the pan all the lard, saving 
it for frying tomatoes again, and put in a tablespoonful each 
of flour and butter ; stir them over the fire mitil they are 
brown, then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water ; season 
the gravy thus made rather highly with salt and pepper, and 
let it boil for two minutes ; then pour it on a deep platter, 
lay the fried tomatoes on it without breaking them, and 
serve them hot. 

BROILED TOMATOES. 

Choose large, firm tomatoes, wash them in cold water, 
and wipe them dry ; have ready a double wire gridiron well 
buttered, a plate containing four tablespoonfuls of flour sea- 



430 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

soned highly with salt and pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of 
butter melted by a gentle heat ; see that the fire is very hot 
and clear; cut the tomatoes half an inch thick, dip the 
slices first in the melted butter and then in the flour, lay 
them between the bars of the buttered gridiron, and brown 
them quickly on both sides ; serve the broiled tomatoes on 
a hot dish, as soon as they are done, putting a small bit of 
butter on each slice. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 

Use either canned tomatoes, or fresh ones scalded and 
peeled ; put them over the fire with a heaping tablespoon- 
ful of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a palatable season- 
ing of salt and pepper, to each quart, and stew them gently 
for half an hour ; if they are wanted thick, use a few bread 
or cracker crumbs to produce the proper consistency ; if 
milk or cream is added to them, add also a saltspoonful of 
baking-soda to modify the acidity of the tomatoes and pre- 
vent the curdling of the milk. 

CANNED TOMATOES. 

Choose perfectly ripe, sound tomatoes ; three bushels will 
fill about four dozen glass jars ; those with the porcelain- 
lined tops, with rubber bands for excluding the air, are the 
best for family use, and the capacity of the jars should be 
about a quart ; the tomatoes should first be put in boiling 
water for about two minutes, or long enough to remove the 
skins, and then skimmed out of the hot water and drained ; 
as fast as the tomatoes are peeled, they should be cut in 
halves, and laid in a hair sieve to drain, and when the sieve 
is full they should be slightly pressed to force out the 
juice, and then transferred to an earthen bowl ; when all 
the tomatoes are peeled and drained, put them over the fire 
in a porcelain-Hned kettle, or a new tin boiler, and stir them 



SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 43 I- 

until they boil thoroughly ; then commence to put them 
into the glass jars as follows, but keep them boiling until the 
cans are all filled : have the jars close by the stove, on a 
table covered with a wet cloth ; have a pan by the side of 
the boiler, with a little hot water in it ; have on the table 
another pan containing hot water ; first roll a jar in the pan 
of hot water on the table, then set it in the pan of hot water 
on the stove, and fill it to overflowing with the boiling toma- 
toes ; at once put on the rubber, and screw down the cover ; 
then place the jar on the table, and fill and cover another 
until all are closed, taking care to keep the tomatoes boiling 
all the time, until all the jars are filled. When the jars are 
cold, the covers should again be screwed tight. The toma- 
toes will keep best in a cool, dark place ; and it is well to 
wrap each jar in paper to exclude the light. 

Tomatoes may be canned in the jars by following the 
directions given for so canning fruit. 

PARSNEPS WITH CREAM. 

Scrape three large parsneps, slice them half an inch thick 
and two inches long, and boil them in salted boiling water 
until they are tender ; then drain off the water, add to the 
parsneps two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a cupful of 
cream, season them palatably with white pepper and salt, let 
them boil once, and then serve them. 

SALT PORK AND PARSNEPS. 

Salt pork and parsneps are stewed together for half an 
hour ; the water then drained off, and the pork and parsneps 
sliced and browned together, with a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper. This is an old New- England dish. 

BROILED PARSNEPS. 

Boil the parsneps as directed in the preceding recipe, 
drain them, dry them on a clean towel, split them in slices 



432 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

half an inch thick, dip ihcm in melted butter seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and put them between the bars of a double 
wire gridiron ; broil them brown over a hot fire, and serve 
them hot. 

BERMUDA ONIONS BOILED. 

Carefully peel the onions without breaking them apart, 
and boil them, only until tender, in salted boiling water ; 
drain them as soon as they are done, pour over them suffi- 
cient hot drawn butter or Dutch sauce to nearly cover them, 
and serve them at once. 

Bermuda onions are good fried or scalloped. 

BOILED ONIONS. 

The best native onions for boiling are the white ones, but 
the red variety may be cooked in the same way ; peel the 
onions without trimming off the roots and tops closely enough 
to cause them to break apart, put them over the fire in plenty 
of salted boihng water for ten minutes ; then pour off the 
water, replace it with milk, season the onions palatably with 
salt, pepper, and butter, and stew them gently until they 
are tender ; then serve them hot. 

SPANISH ONIONS FRIED. 

Peel and slice two pounds of Spanish onions, put them 
into a frying-pan containing two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
butter made smoking hot over the fire, season them with a 
teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, 
dust them very lightly with a little cayenne-pepper, and 
stir them over the fire until they are tender; as soon as 
they are tender, serve them on toast, pouring over them the 
gravy they yield in cooking. 

SCALLOPED ONIONS. ■ 

Peel two pounds of Spanish onions, or any large white 
variety ; put them over the fire in sufficient boiling water to 



SALADS AXD VEGETABLES. 433 

cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil them until 
tender. Meantime grate an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, 
and just moisten them with cold milk. When the onions 
are tender, pull them apart with two forks, and put them into 
a buttered earthen baking-dish in layers with the moistened 
bread-crumbs ; season each layer lightly with salt and pep- 
per ; let the top layer be of bread-crumbs ; put a table- 
spoonful of butter over it in small pieces, and place the dish 
in a hot oven until the bread-crumbs are brown ; then serve 
it hot at once. 

BOILED LEEKS. 

Use ^ung green leeks or the new green onions which are 
marketed in the spring ; carefully wash them in salted cold 
water, trim away the roots and the broken or wilted tops, 
tie them again in small bunches, and put them over the fire 
in salted boiling water ; boil small onions ten minutes, leeks 
twenty minutes, and then drain them. Have ready a slice 
of dry toast for each bunch, and a tablespoonful of butter 
melted with a saltspoonful of salt and a quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper ; lay the leeks on the toast, pour the 
melted butter over them, and serve them hot. 

BOILED SQUASH. 

Peel a large squash or two small ones, cut them in pieces 
about an inch square, put them over the fire in salted boiling 
water, and boil them until they are tender; meantime, for 
three pints of squash mix together over the fire a table- 
spoonful each of butter and flour, and stir them until they 
are brown ; then gradually add a pint of boiling water and a 
high seasoning of salt and pepper ; when this sauce boils, set 
it aside until the squash is done ; after the squash is drained 
from the water in which it was boiled, put it into the hot 
brown sauce, and serve it at once. Or, simply mash the 
boiled squash through a colander, heat it with salt, pepper, 
and butter, and serve it. 



434 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

BAKED YELLOW SQUASH. 

If the vegetable is very young and immature, it may be 
washed and cooked without peeling or removing the seeds. 
But if it is ripe, both seeds and peeling must be taken away, 
and the squash cut in half-inch slices ; put it into a baking- 
dish, place it in a moderate oven, and bake it until it is ten- 
der enough to be easily broken with a fork ; the length of 
time required will depend upon the maturity of the vege- 
table ; a large, ripe squash will bake in about an hour. 
When the squash is tender, put with it two heaping table- 
spoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 
teaspoonful of pepper ; mix the seasoning entirely through 
the squash, return it to the oven to heat, and then serve it 
very hot. 

Squash may be fried like egg-plant. 

SUMMER SQUASH. 

Peel a squash, cut it in small pieces, and boil it in salted 
boiling water until it is tender ; then drain it, put it into a 
clean towel, and wring out all the water ; put it again into 
a saucepan over the fire with two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
butter and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, stir it 
over the fire until it is hot, and then serve it. 

SUMMER SQUASH STEWED. 

If the skin of the squash is tough, peel it ; otherwise slice 
the vegetable, after first washing it in cold water ; put it over 
the fire in just boiling water enough to cover it, and boil it 
for about twenty minutes, or until it is tender enough to 
mash through a colander. After the squash is drained and 
mashed, to each pint of it add a gill of cream and the 
beaten yolk of one raw egg ; season it palatably with salt and 
pepper ; stir it over the fire just long enough to heat it 



SALADS AND I'EGKTAIU.ES. 435 

thoroughly, and then serve it hot. Or, after the squash is 
tender, add plenty of butter to it, with a palatable seasoning 
of salt and pepper, and stir it over the fire until the moisture 
is nearly all evaporated, and then serve it hot. Or, scallop 
the squash with the addition of bread-crumbs and salt, pep- 
per, and butter, and brown it in the oven. 

MACARONI AND SPAGHETTI. 

Good Italian macaroni, both large and small, can now- 
be bought in nearly all American cities. It should never be 
washed before boiling ; if it is dusty, wipe it with a dry 
cloth ; put it over the fire in plenty of salted boiling water, 
and boil it fast for ten minutes, or until it is just tender ; 
then drain it, and throw it into cold water ; this washing will 
remove the excess of farinaceous m.atter that makes it sticky ; 
after cooling in the cold water, it can be heated in any sauce 
preferred, and the kind of sauce used will give the name to 
the dish ; tomato, mushroom, and white sauces are usually 
employed. The addition of a little chopped cold ham, 
tongue, or chicken, to macaroni makes a delicious dish ; fried 
onions are very good with macaroni, making the favorite 
Italian farmer's dish. The addition of white and tomato 
sauce and some chopped mushrooms and meat or poultry 
makes Milanaise macaroni. 

Boiled macaroni put into a dish with layers of grated 
cheese, and moistened with white sauce, or with a little milk 
and butter, makes a good baked dish ; a few bread-crumbs 
may be put over the top if they are desired. 

Macaroni or spaghetti dressed with a little mushroom- 
sauce makes a delicious garnish for a baked or roasted filet 
of beef, or for a thick broiled beefsteak. 



CHAPTER IX. 

SECOND-COURSE SWEETS [EntremHs). 

THE sweets called entremets upon bills of fare arranged 
according to European style include those served in 
this country as dessert, such as puddings, cakes, pies, and 
tarts, and sometimes moulded jellies ; the few jellies of this 
kind for which there is space are given in the next chapter 
with the frozen puddings. The breads, both large and small, 
including those suitable for breakfast and luncheon, are 
given in this chapter, as are the fritters and griddle-cakes, 
and a fair variety of pudding-sauces. 

There is not room enough to give recipes for many cakes : 
this need not be a matter of regret, for usually American 
cookery-books are chiefly made up of them ; the few that 
are given are good, and the reader is referred to the author's 
other works for a greater variety. 

ST. HONORS CAKE. 

A St. Honor^ cake is a combination of candied fruit, pas- 
try, and cream custard. To make the pastry, put over the 
fire in a thick saucepan one pint of water, a quarter of a 
pound of butter, and half an ounce of sugar; when the 
water boils, throw in half a pound of flour, and beat the 
paste until it cleaves away from the sides of the saucepan ; 
take the saucepan off the fire, let the paste cool for five 
minutes, and beat in eight eggs, two at a time, thoroughly 
mixing them before adding moie ; the paste should be soft 
436 



SECOXD-COUKSE SWEETS. 437 

enough to drop easily from the mixing-spoon, but not soft 
enough to spread when dropped ; drop part of the paste 
upon a buttered and floured pan in pieces as large as a 
hickory-nut ; form a ring of more of it, as large as the cake 
is desired, and about an inch broad and high ; put more of 
it in a thin round the size of the cake, to use as a bottom 
when it is not intended to take the trouble to make a bottom 
round of what is called pate d' office ; some cooks make the 
bottom of a thin round of cake, but this is not advisable, for 
if the St. Honore custard stands in the cake it saturates and 
softens it. Bake the little balls and ring in a moderate oven ; 
when they are cool, cut a small place in each, and fill them 
with cold St. Honor^ custard. 

ST. HONORE CUSTARD. 

After the St. Honore cakes are put into the oven, make 
the custard as follows : For a cake of medium size, put in a 
thick saucepan over the fire the yolks of six raw eggs, an 
ounce and a half of potato or rice flour, and half a pint of 
milk, and stir them constantly until the mixture is quite 
smooth, and begins to thicken ; then take it off the fire, 
stir with an egg-whip for a minute ; mix half a pound of 
sifted powdered sugar with the whites of six eggs beaten to 
a stiff froth, and then whip this meringue with the custard, 
return it to the fire, and beat it for a moment with the egg- 
whip ; when it is quite smooth, pour it into an earthen dish, 
and cool it ; it will be ready to use for the St. Honor^ cake 
as soon as it is cold. After the custard is made, blanch 
some almonds by pouring boiling water upon the kernels, 
and then rubbing them on a wet towel to remove the skins ; 
cut some white grapes in clusters of two and three, and 
make ready some (juarters of mandarin oranges, or French 
candied fruits, and some cherries, and put each one on the 
end of a lon<i: wire skewer. 



438 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

TO GLACE FRUIT. 

Put a pound of loaf-sugar over the fire in a copper sugar- 
boiler, with a gill of cold water, and boil it until the top is 
covered with large bubbles ; then drop a little of it into cold 
water ; if, when it is cold, it breaks with a snap, it is ready ; 
the sides of the boiler must occasionally be wiped with a 
wet cloth to free them from sugar, and the sugar closely 
watched lest it boil beyond the point just indicated ; when 
the sugar is ready, take the boiler from the fire, and gla^e 
the nuts and fruit by dipping them into the sugar, and then 
laying them on a dish sliglitly coated with salad-oil. 

ST. HONORS CAKE, TO SHAPE. 

When the pastry ring and puffs are filled with the cold 
custard, and the fruit is covered with sugar, shape the St. 



5*. Honore Cake. 



Honor^ cake as follows, making it look like the engraving 
which accompanies this recij^e. First lay a flat sheet of 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 



439 



pastry on a round flat dish ; on the sheet lay the ring of 
pastry filled with custard, fixing it in place with some of the 
melted sugar ; then arrange the puffs filled with custard, and 
the candied fruit, as shown in the cut, and finally heap the 
cold custard in the centre. The cake should not be made 
until shortly before it is required for use, because it deterio- 
rates by standing, and, if the weather is damp, the candied fruit 
soon becomes sticky. 

RUM BUNS. 

Rum buns, or Savarin cakes, are' baked in little moulds, 
which are thickly spread with cold butter, half filled with 
Savarin paste, allowed to rise one-third in height, and then 
baked in a moderate oven until a straw can be passed into 
them without any of the cake sticking to it ; the little cakes 




Savarin Cake or Rum Bun. 

or buns are cooled, and then set in a dish containing rum 
sirup until they absorb enough of it to soften them; the 
sirup is made by dissolving in cold water as much white 
sugar as it will receive, and then flavoring it with the best 
Jamaica rum. ** 

Savarin i)aste is made as follows : Sift two pounds of flour 



440 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

into a deep l)Owl, make a hole in the micidle, and put into 
it an ounce of compressed yeast, dissolved in half a pint of 
lukewarm milk \ with the milk mix enough of the flour to 
form a thick batter in the middle of the flour ; cover the 
bowl, and let the batter rise in a warm place until it is foam- 
ing ; then add one ounce of sugar, half an ounce of salt, 
mix in the rest of the flour, and knead in six eggs, one at a 
time ; then mix in a pound and a half of butter, and knead 
in six more eggs, one at a time, and enough warm milk to 
make a batter thick enough to retain its form when dropped 
from a spoon upon paper ; stir in a little sliced citron, or a 
few seeded raisins, and bake the cakes as directed above. 

BATH BUNS. 

Beat to a cream half a pound each of butter and sugar ; 
add to it the yolks of eight eggs, and again beat the mixture 
until it foams ; sift half a small saltspoonful of powdered 
tumeric and a level teaspoonful of salt with a pound and 
a quarter of flour ; add a level tablespoonful of caraway- 
seeds to the sugar, eggs, and butter, and then very quickly 
stir in the flour ; put the batter thus made upon baking-pans 
well rubbed with butter, or covered with buttered paper, in 
pieces as large as an ordinary lemon ; on the top of each 
one put a teaspoonful of granulated sugar, or press well into 
the top of each a lump of loaf-sugar and a small cube of 
citron. Bake the buns in a moderate oven until a straw can 
be run through them without sticking. The same ingredi- 
ents can be made light by using half an ounce of compressed 
yeast, and then baked according to the directions for any 
raised cake. 

BRIOCHE. 

An excellent brioche or coffee- cake can be made as fol- 
lows : Make a leaven by mixing together to a soft dough a 
quarter of a pound of flour and two ounces of compressed 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 44I 

yeast, dissolved in a gill of lukewarm water ; put it into a 




^=^~«.NiY>«5^'^ 



UncoolteU Brioche. 

floured saucepan, put on the cover, and place the saucepan 




Brioche or Coffee Cake. 



in another containing hot water, to swell the leaven quickly 
• to double its size, but do not scald it ; then put on a pastry- 



442 



FRACTICAL AMERICA.Y COOKERY. 



board three-quarters of a jjound of flour, two tablespoonfuls 
of water, in which four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a level 
teaspoonful of salt have been dissolved, two eggs, and ten 
ounces of butter cut in small pieces, and knead them to- 
gether until a smooth paste is formed ; then knead in four 
more eggs, one at a time ; after the eggs add the leaven, and 
knead it well with the dough ; then put the dough into a 
floured bowl, cover it with a folded towel, put it in a warm 
place in winter, or a moderately cool place in summer, and 
let it rise for four hours ; at the end of four hours knead it, 
and again let it rise for two hours ; form it in rings or loaves 
like those shown in the accompanying engravings, brush 
them with beaten egg, put them on floured pans, and let 
them rise again to twice their original height, keeping a 
folded towel over them ; after this final rising, bake them for 
about half an hour in a moderate oven. Fruit may be 
added at discretion during the final kneading, and sugar 
thickly dusted over the surface of the biioche if it is desired. 

BRIOCHE RING. 

This is a favorite form of baking fruit brioche, to be served 




Brioche Ring. 



with coffee for luncheon ; after the brioche paste is made 
as directed in the preceding recipe, add plenty of citron. 



SECOXD-COrNSE SIVEETS. 443 

seeded raisins, and currants to it, form it in a ring on paper 
thickly buttered, and bake it, following the preceding recipe. 
Very good brioche may be served among the second- 
Jourse sweets, with grated Parmesan cheese, or Gruyere cut 
in dice. 

ALMOND MACAROONS. 

Blanch a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, pound 
them smooth in a mortar, adding two or three drops of rose- 
water whenever the pounded almonds begin to look oily ; 
when they are smooth, beat the white of one egg, and mix it 
with the almonds ; then beat two more whites stiff, mix them 
lightly with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and add 
them to the whites and almonds already mixed ; when the 
mixture is smooth, stir into it another quarter of a pound of 
powdered sugar ; when the macaroon batter looks creamy, 
put it in little balls on paper slightly wet with a little brush ; 
bake the macaroons in a cool oven. 

ALMOND BISCUIT. 

Blanch, and chop rather fine, four ounces of almonds. 
Beat twelve whites of egg to a stiff froth ; mix smoothly with 
them a pound of powdered sugar, and three-quarters of a 
pound of flour ; put the mixture in little heaps on a baking- 
pan buttered, or covered with buttered paper, and cover 
each one with chopped almonds ; bake the biscuit in a 
moderate oven. 

ALMOND CAKE. 

Sift a pound of flour, and put it near the fire to dry ; pour 
boiling water over a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, 
rub off the skins, and chop the kernels a little ; line two 
medium-size cake-moulds with buttered paper, or butter the 
moulds thickly, and dust them with powdered sugar; and 
see that the oven is properly heated. Beat six ounces or a 



444 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

cupful of butter to a cream, with half a pound of powdered 
sugar ; add a tablespoonful of rosewater, and then gradually 
beat in the flour ; beat the whites of twelve eggs to a stiff 
froth, and lightly mix half a pound of powdered sugar with 
them ; then mix the whites and almonds with the cake- 
batter, working very quickly and lightly ; put the batter 
into the moulds, set the moulds on earthen plates, and bake 
the cakes in a moderate oven for about three-quarters of an 
hour, or until a clean broom-straw can be thrust into them 
and withdrawn without being sticky. 

LADY CAKE. 

Make this cake like the preceding, omitting the almonds. 

PINEAPPLE CAKE. 

Have ready two cake-moulds, as directed in the preced- 
ing recipe. Peel a small pineapple, and grate it ; beat a 
quarter of a pound of butter to a cream with a pound of 
powdered sugar ; add the yolks of twelve eggs to it, and the 
grated pineapple ; sift a level teaspoonful of salt, and two 
heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, with a pound of 
flour, and then quickly beat the flour into the cake-batter ; 
put the batter at once into the moulds, and bake the cakes 
as directed in the preceding recipe. This cake is quite new, 
and very good. 

ORANGE CAKE. 

Make it like the pineapple cake, using orange pulp and 
juice, free from seeds, instead of the pineapple. 

CITRON' POUND CAKE. 

Cut a quarter of a pound of candied citron in small pieces ; 
see that the oven is properly heated ; line two cake-tins with 
buttered paper ; sift a pound of flour. Put a pound of but- 



SECOXD-COrRSE SIVEETS. 445 

tei into a large bowl, and beat it (.0 a cream ; then beat in 
the following ingredients successively : one pound of pow- 
dered sugar, one pound of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, eight 
eggs, and a wineglassful of brandy ; last of all, add the 
citron, and bake the cake as directed in the recipe for 
almond cake. 

PLUM CAKE. 

For several cakes use the following ingredients (it is well 
to make several, because they improve by keeping) : wash 
and dry a pound and a half of currants ; slightly chop the 
same quantity of the best dried or candied cherries, and 
half a pound of shelled and blanched almonds ; half a pound 
each of orange, lemon, and citron peel, cut in small bits ; 
use half an ounce of mixed ground cinnamon, cloves, and 
nutmegs, a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of brandy, eight 
eggs, a pound of fine sugar, and a pound and a half each of 
butter and sifted flour. See that the oven is properly heated, 
and line the cake-moulds with buttered paper. Beat the 
butter to a cream, then gradually beat in the sugar, flour, 
and eggs, then the brandy, salt, spice, and fruit ; when all 
the ingredients are smoothly mixed, put the cakes into the 
buttered moulds, arid bake them slowly. As plum-cake is 
usually iced, several good recipes for cake icings are given. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

Rub the inside of a smooth cake-pan, or plain charlotte- 
mould, with olive-oil or melted butter, and dust it thickly with 
powdered sugar ; sift six ounces of flour ; grate the yellow 
rind of a lemon ; separate the whites from the yolks of twelve 
eggs ; weigh two ounces of powdered sugar, and sift it ; 
weigh four ounces of powdered sugar, and beat it with the 
yolks until they are thick and creamy ; if possible, have a 
second person beating the whites ; at all events, beat them 



446 FKACTJCAL AMKRJCAX COOKERY. 




Bag and Cone for mahing Lady-Fingers. 



SECOXD-COURSE SWEETS. 447 

to a Stiff froth, and lightly mix with them the two ounces of 
sugar ; then quickly and lightly mix, withoitt beating, a third 
of the flour with the yolks ; then a third of the whites ; then 
more flour and whites, until all are used; add the grated 
rind during the mixing. The motion of mixing must be 
very light, rather cutting down through the cake-batter than 
beating it ; beating the eggs makes them hght, beating the 
batter makes the cake tough. As soon as the cake is mixed, 
turn it into the pan, and bake it in a moderate oven until a 
broom-straw run into it can be withdrawn clean. 

LADY-FINGERS. 

Beat to a cream the yolks of six eggs, and half a pound 
of powdered sugar; beat sbc whites to a stiff froth, and 
lightly mix with them a quarter of a pound of sifted flour ; 
then quickly and lightly mix these two batters ; put them on 
paper laid on pans, using the bag and tube as shown in the 
accompanying cut, or substitute moulds for this purpose ; 
dust the lady-fingers with powdered sugar, and bake them 
in a moderate oven until light brown. 

This recipe makes a good sponge-cake if it is baked in 
rather thin cakes. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

For a charlotte like that sho\\'n in tl;e accompanying 
engraving, use for the sides lady-fingers, with the ends cut 
square, or small slices of sponge-cake ; for the top use small 
round sponge-cakes or macaroons ; lay the cakes inside a 
plain round mould, arranging »them as shown in the picture, 
and slightly wetting the overlapping portions with the raw 
white of egg to keep them in place ; while the egg is 
drying, prepare enough whipped cream to fill the centre of 
.the charlotte, according to the recipe for whipped cream ; 
just before sending the charlotte to table, fill it with the 



448 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



cream, turn it out of the mould on a pretty dish, and serve 
it at once. 




Charlotte Russe. 



Other creams, such as Bavarian, are sometimes used ; but 
the plain whipped cream makes the most dehcate charlotte. 



WHIPPED CREAM. 



Flavor and sweeten half a pint of sweet cream to taste ; 
whip it for two minutes with an egg-whip, and let it stand 
for a minute for the froth to free itself from air-bubbles; 
then skim off the froth, and put it in a colander set in a dish 



SECOND-CO URSE S IVEE TS. 



449 



to drain ; again whip the cream to a froth, and skim ; pro- 
ceed in this way until all the cream is whipped ; then put it 
in a cool place until it is required for the table. 

PAPER CASES FOR SMALL CHARLOTTES. 

When small charlottes are desired, and there are no indi- 
vidual moulds at hand, paper cases can be made as shown in 
the accompanying picture ; a circle of stiff pasteboard, or a 
round tin cup without a handle, will serve to form the cases ; 
by cutting the paper as shown on the uj^per edge, and then 




Paper Case for Small Charlottes. 

turning it as shown at the bottom, the shape of the circle 
will be preserved ; if the paper is brushed with the white 
of egg before it is turned up, it will surely stay in place. 
The paper cases are lined with a strip of thin sponge-cake, 
a bottom of cake is fitted in ; and then they are ready to fill, 
as directed in the recipe for charlotte-russe. 



CAKE BAKED IN PAPER. 



When a cake-pan is too shallow for the quantity of cake 
desired, or when the cake is so light that it is likely to rise 
above the top of the pan, it can be kept in shape by using 



450 



PR A CTICA I. AM J: RICA X CVUKER V. 



a Stiff glazed paper, cut as shown in the accompanying en- 
graving, and thickly coated with butter before the cake is 
put into it ; if the oven-heat is moderate, the butter will 
preserve tlie paper from burning. 

It may not be amiss to reprint the following hints for the 
successful baking of cake : — 

In baking cake, the greatest care should be taken to guard 




Cake Baked in Paper. 

against too great heat in the oven ; a layer of sand on the 
bottom of the oven, about half an inch thick, is a safeguard 
against burning on the bottom ; if the general heat is too 
great, the cake will burn, or crack on the top, before it can 
bake properly ; if the oven is not hot enough, the cake will 
not rise properly. A very safe test of the heat is to put a 
spoonful of the cake dough or batter on a bit of buttered 
paper, and slip it into the oven ; this may be done during 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 45 I 

the final mixing of the cake, so that it will not have to stand 
after it is ready for the oven ; if the little cake bakes evenly 
and quickly, without burning at the edge, the heat is right, 
and the large cake may be put into the oven. An expe- 
rienced baker always knows the varying temperatures of the 
oven, and takes care that the heat is right before the cake is 
begun. 

PLAIN ICING FOR CAKES. 

Separate the white and yolk of one egg, and sift four 
ounces of pulverized sugar ; beat the white of egg until it 
foams ; then gradually beat in the fine sugar, until a smooth 
icing is formed, when it will be ready to use ; keep the icing 
very cold until it is needed. 

BOILED ICING. 

Put five ounces of white sugar over the fire in a sugar-' 
boiler, with a gill of cold water, and boil it until it is thick 
enough to drop in fine threads from the spoon, from which 
a little is poured ; while the sugar is thus being boiled to a 
thread, beat the white of one egg to a stiff froth, and when 
the sugar is ready pour it gradually into the egg, beating all 
the time, until the icing is white and smooth ; then apply it 
to the cake. 

TUTTI FRUTTI ICING. 

Mix with a boiled icing made as directed above, one 
ounce each of chopped citron, candied cherries, seedless 
raisins, candied pineapple, and blanched almonds. 

CONFECTIONER'S ICING. 

Beat the whites of two eggs to a foam ; then sift in grad- 
ually half a pound of powdered sugar, beating all the time, 
until a smooth, thick icing is formed, which can be smoothly 
cut and spread ; keep the icing cold until it is wanted for 
use. 



452 FRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

FRUIT ICING. 

To the quantity of confectioner's icing given in the recipe, 
add two tablespoonfuls of any fruit-juice, and two heaping 
tablespoonfuls more of powdered sugar ; use the icing as 
soon as it is made. 

FRUIT- CREAM ICING. 

Mix together one tablespoonful each of water and any 
fruit-juice, the white of one egg, and enough finely pow- 
dered sugar to make a smooth icing of Hke consistency with 
that produced from any of the preceding recipes, and use 
it at once. 

CORN-STARCH ICING. 

Sift together four ounces of powdered sugar, and a quar- 
ter of an ounce of corn-starch ; beat the white of one egg 
stiff, and then gradually beat into it the sugar and corn- 
starch, until a smooth icing is formed, which can be cut and 
spread with a flexible knife ; keep the icing cool until it is 
required for use. 

ALMOND ICING. 

Pour boiling water upon an ounce of shelled almonds, 
including a few bitter almonds ; rub off the skins with a wet 
cloth, and then pound the nuts to a smooth paste, in a 
mortar, adding a few drops of rosewater whenever the 
almonds begin to look oily ; thoroughly mix the almonds 
with a confectioner's icing, and use it at once. 

PAPER CONES FOR ICING. 

In icing cakes where ornamentation is desired, the little 
paper cones shown in the accompanying engraving will be 
found useful ; the tip of the second figure, d, may be cut off 
to permit the escape of the icing ; or a larger cut may be 
made and a metal tip inserted, as shown at the lower end of 
Fig. 3. To make the cones, cut pieces of paper shaped like 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 



453 



Fig. I, about twelve inches across the longest diagonal side, 
and five inches from ^ to C ; make creases in the paper fol- 
lowing the dotted lines from ^ up to O and down to P, and 
then from E to D ; take the tip of the paper marked C 
between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, holding 
the point marked A upward, and the diagonal or bias side 
of the paper toward one ; then take the tip of the paper 
marked B between the thumb and forefinger of the right 
hand, and turn the paper around the fingers of the left hand 




E f 

Paper Cones for Icing. 



until the creased lines A and P to the point O overlap 
each other ; this will bring the creased line P to D upon 
the upper open part of the cone, leaving the long point of 
paper towards B projecting above the upper opening of the 
cone ; turn the point down inside the cone, and it will keep 
the entire cone in form as shown in Fig. 2 ; the tip may 
be cut off, forming the semicircular line marked J^ K, 
through which opening the icing passes out of the cone. 
After the cone is filled with icing to within about a third 



454 PNACTICAI. AMERICAX COOKERY. 

of the top, the top is folded down, as shown in Fig. 3, in 
such a way as to enclose the icing: then, by holding the 
full cone in the left hand, with the tip or bottom projecting 
beyond the thumb and forefinger, the icing can be pressed 
out at the tip by using the thumb of the right hand to force 
it downward in the cone. As the icing softens paper, it is 
well to use a rather stiff kind, and to make at least half a 
dozen cones before beginning to ice a cake. Small bags 
may be made of thick cotton cloth, with suitable metal tips 
fastened at the lower pointed end, to use for icing cakes. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLE. 

An omelette souffle properly made is one of the most deli- 
cious of hot sweets. It is not difficult to make after its 
principles are understood, and yet it is seldom well made by 
ordinary cooks. Many dishes made from mixtures which 
contain flour and milk are called by the name of this one, 
but they are in no way entitled to such distinction. The 
true omektte souffle contains only eggs, sugar, and the 
chosen flavoring. A tin-lined copper souffle-'pdin, or a thick 
enamelled metal dish, which will quickly heat, and remain 
hot after it is taken from the oven, is required for cooking 
the omelet ; spread the pan with cold butter, and see that 
the oven is quite hot before the omelet is made. Put in a 
quart bowl the yolks of three raw eggs, six heaping table- 
spoonfuls of pulverized sugar, and a teaspoonful of any good 
flavoring essence or cordial, and beat them to a smooth 
cream ; beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, and then 
quickly and lightly put the yolks and sugar with the whites. 
This part of the operation requires a quick, deft hand. The 
yolks should be poured in the centre of the whites, and then 
cut down through, rather than beaten or stirred ; by hold- 
ing the spoon in the right hand with the bowl outward, and 
cutting dowri into the whites with its edge, an inward and up- 



SECOXD-COL'KSE SWEPl TS. 45 5 

ward turn of the right wrist will bring the spoon out again 
on the top of the whites ; repeat this cutting down and turn- 
ing motion rapidly and lightly until the omelet is mixed ; 
then as rapidly and lightly put the omelet into the pan in 
which it is to be baked, dust it over with powdered sugar, 
place it in the oven, and bake it until it is delicately 
browned, which will be in about ten minutes if the oven is 
moderately hot. Do not begin to make the souffle until 
about twenty minutes before it is needed at the table. It is 
better to have the guests wait for it than to have it ruined 
by standing after it is done. Send it to the table directly it 
is taken from the oven, slipping the souffle-'^zxi on a hot plat- 
ter. Some cooks hold a hot salamander over a soiffle in 
carrying it to the dining-room. 

ALMOND SOUFFLE. 

This souffle may be baked in a souffle-d\%\\ of metal, or in 
small paper cases made by folding stiff white paper as 
shown in the first of the annexed cuts ; the cases should not 




Paper Cases for Souffles. 

be filled more than one-half, because the souffle rises very 
high ; and it should be served as soon as done, because it 
falls directly the heat is withdrawn from it. Some careful 
cooks hold a hot salamander over souffles in carrying them 
from the oven to the dining-room door. Cuts of salaman- 
ders are given elsewhere. After the souffle is baked, it has 
the appearance of the second picture. To make almond 



456 



PRACr/CAL AMEKICA.X COOh'KRY. 



souffle, separate the yolks from the whites of six eggs ; 
pound four ounces of ahnond macaroons fine ; put half a 
pint of cream over the fire with four ounces of powdered 
sugar and a wineglass of brandy, and stir until the cream is 




Souffe Baked in Paper Case. 

scalding hot ; then pour the cream over the macaroons, and 
let the mixture cool. When it is cold, beat in the yolks of 
the eggs ; have the paper cases set on a baking-sheet ; beat 
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and quickly stir them 




Souffles Dished for Serving. 



into the sonffle-vcnyXwxe ; put it at once into the paper cases, 
and bake them in a moderate oven until light brown. Serve 
the souffles directly they are brown, arranging them upon a 
pretty dish, and hastening them to the table. 



SECOXD-COURSE SWEETS. 



457 



SALAMANDERS. 

Salamanders are heavy pieces of iron, fitted with thick 
wooden handles. They are heated for the purpose of 
browning dishes that need not be placed in the oven, such 
as the meringue on cold pies, and breaded dishes that do 




Salamanders. 



not require heating. They are very useful when the oven- 
heat is too slow to properly color baked dishes ; and they 
are also used to hold above dishes which should be served 
very hot, such as souses. 



BOILED AND STEAMED PUDDINGS. 

The advantage of steaming puddings over boiling them is 
that they are less likely to be watery if they are steamed. 
Any of the boiled puddings may be steamed in an ordinary 
steamer, but a little longer time must be allowed for cooking 
them ; and care must be taken to have the cover of the 



45^ J'A'AC77CAL AMKKICAX COOKERY. 

Steamer very tight, in order to prevent the escape of steam. 
If the cover is loose, it should have a cloth laid under it to 
make it fit tightly. Also, care should be exercised lest the 
water in the steamer become exhausted. 

HOT CABINET-PUDDING, RUM SAUCE. 

Butter a round or oval plain tin pudding-mould thickly with 
cold butter. Cut a quarter of a pound of citron in the form 
of leaves and stems. Cut some fanciful flower shapes from 
four ounces of French candied fruit, choosing a good variety 
of colors, and chop the rest of the fruit. Have ready four 
ounces of candied cherries. With the fruit-flowers, cherries, 
and citron-leaves make wreaths upon the bottom and sides 
of the buttered mould, fixing the fruit in place with the cold 
butter. Over the fruit decoration lay thin sponge-cake cut 
so as to fit the inside of the mould. After the mould is lined 
with cake, fill it with alternate layers of cake and the fruit 
not used for decoration. Make a custard by thoroughly 
mixing four eggs, four heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a 
pint of milk. Strain this custard, and slowly pour it into the 
mould containing the cake and fruit. Set the mould in a 
saucepan containing enough hot water to reach half way up 
the sides of the mould. . Cover the saucepan, and steam the 
pudding for two hours, or until the custard is quite firm. 
Test the custard by running a small sharp knife down 
through it. If the custard is liquid enough to stain the 
knife, steam the pudding longer. When the pudding is done 
turn it out of the mould, and serve it with rum-sauce. If a 
tight covered mould is used, there will be no danger of water 
penetrating the pudding : otherwise care must be taken to 
prevent this. 

FOREST-CITY RUM SAUCE. 

Beat to a smooth cream the yolks of two raw eggs, two 
heaping tablespopnfuls of powdered sugar, and a saltspoon- 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 459 

ful of grated nutmeg. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff 
froth. Just before serving the sauce, quickly and lightly mix 
with the whites two heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar ; then mix in the yolks, and finally a glass of the best 
old Jamaica rum, or more, according to taste. Use the 
sauce as soon as it is made. 

CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING. 

Stone one pound of raisins, put them in a bowl, pour over 
them a glass of brandy, and let them stand while the rest of 
the ingredients are being prepared. Pick over a pound of 
currants, wash them thoroughly in plenty of cold water, rub 
them dry on a towel, and then in a sieve with a little flour to 
separate the stems from them. Free a pound of beef-suet 
from skin, and chop it fine with four tablespoonfuls of flour. 
Cut in thin slices two ounces of citron and one ounce each 
of candied lemon and orange peel. Grate the yellow rind 
and squeeze the juice of one orange and one lemon. Pour 
boiling water on four ounces of shelled almonds ; let them 
remain in it until the skins become moist, then rub them off 
the nuts with a clean dry towel, and cut each nut in three or 
four slices. Grate one nutmeg, and sift it into a pound 
of sugar, with one teaspoonful of salt. Crumb one pound of 
dry bread from the inside of a stale loaf. Then mix to- 
gether all these ingredients with the hand, adding to them 
eight eggs, one glass each of good brandy and sherry, and 
just enough cream or rich milk to slightly moisten the pud- 
ding. Butter and flour a tin pudding-mould, shaking out 
all superfluous flour ;. fill the mould to within an inch of the 
top ; lay a round of buttered white paper over the pudding, 
cover the mould so tightly that no water can penetrate to the 
pudding while it is boiling, and fasten the cover securely. 
Set the pudding-mould in sufficient boiling water to reach 
two-thirds up the side, and boil the pudding steadily for 



460 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ten hours, replenishing the water as it boils away. The 
mould must be perfectly water-tight, or the puddmg will be 
spoiled. The mould must not be opened until the pudding 
is wanted for the table. Plum-puddings made in this way 
will keep for a long time in a cool, dry place. Before using 
them the mould must be placed in boiling water, as before 
directed, and the pudding boiled for two hours. Serve the 
pudding hot, turned from the mould upon a hot dish ; just 
before sending it to the table, pour over it a glass of rum or 
brandy, set fire to the spirits, and send the pudding to the 
table blazing. Serve with a dishful of rum or brandy sauce. 

BRANDY SAUCE. 

Brown two tablespoonfuls of sugar over the fire ; add two 
tablespoonfuls of brandy, six whole cloves, an inch of stick 
cinnamon, the yellow rind of a lemon cut very thin, and half 
a pint of water. Let the sauce boil ; pour it into a sauce- 
bowl containing the juice of a lemon and two wineglasses of 
brandy, and serve it at once. 

BOILED BATTER-PUDDING. 

Butter a tin pudding-mould or an earthen bowl thickly ; 
beat the yolks of four raw eggs to a cream, add to them 
half a pound of flour sifted with a heaping teaspoonful of 
baking-powder and half a teaspoonful of salt ; next smoothly 
and gradually mix in a pint of milk, and four whites of egg 
beaten to a froth ; put the pudding at once into the buttered 
mould, and close it water-tight; put it into boiling water, and 
boil it steadily ; the length of time for boiling steadily is 
two hours ; when the batter is put into a buttered earthen 
bowl, the bowl should not be quite full, and a cloth, wet 
in hot water and then floured, should be tied over the bowl, 
meeting under the bottom. Batter-puddings must always 
be served as soon as they are done. 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 46 1 

FRUIT SAUCE. 

Any good pudding- sauce accompanies batter-puddings; a 
simple one gin be made by mixing with a fork equal parts 
of butter and granulated sugar, together with enough fruit 
juice or essence to flavor the sauce palatably. 

BRANDY HARD SAUCE. 

The use of wine or brandy in place of the fruit-juice 
transforms the sauce into brandy or wine sauce. 

BOILED BREAD-PUDDING. 

Grate a quart bowl full of stale bread, pour over it a 
quart of boiling milk, and let it stand an hour ; then add 
sugar to taste, and three eggs beaten to a foam ; butter a 
bowl just large enough to contain the pudding, put it into 
the bowl, and tie a floured cloth over the bowl, first wetting 
the cloth in hot water, and then thickly dusting it with flour "; 
put the pudding into a large kettle half full of boiling water, 
and boil it steadily for half an hour ; then turn it from the 
bowl, and serve it at once, with any good pudding-sauce. 

CARAMEL SAUCE. 

The following recipe is taken from the author's "Good 
Dinners every Day : " — 

Put four tablespoonfuls of white sugar in a saucepan upon 
the fire, with one tablespoonful of water ; stir it constantly 
with a wooden spoon for three or four minutes until all the 
water evaporates ; watch it carefully until it assumes a deli- 
cate brown color ; in the mean time put into another sauce- 
pan six ounces of sugar, half the yellow rind of a lemon 
cut thin, one inch of stick-cinnamon, and one pint of cold 
water ; bring these to a boil gradually ; simmer for ten min- 
utes ; add one glass of wine, or half a glass of brandy ; 



462 PRACriCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Strain the liquid (]iiickly into the caramel, or browned sugar, 
mix them thoroughly, and serve the sauce with the pudding, 

BOILED APPLE-PUDDING. 

Peel about a quart of apples, cut them in quarters, remove 
the cores, and lay the apples in cold water ; peel, boil, and 
mash half a dozen large potatoes, adding to them, while 
mashing them, half a pound of butter ; then mix with the po- 
tatoes an equal quantity of flour, and sufificient cold water to 
form a stiff pastry, and roll it out about an inch thick ; dip a 
large pudding-cloth in boiling water, spread it inside a bowl 
large enough to contain the apples, leaving the sides of the 
cloth hanging over the edges of the bowl ; dredge the cloth 
quickly with flour, and then spread the crust over the cloth ; 
next drain the apples, put them into the crust, "mixing with 
them a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and four table- 
spoonfuls of brown sugar ; draw the pastry up around the 
apples, enclosing them entirely, and slightly wetting the edges 
to make them adhere closely ; then tie the pudding-cloth 
tightly around the pudding ; put the pudding at once into a 
large pot of boiling water, and boil it steadily for three hours, 
keeping it well covered ; when the pudding is done, remo\e 
the cloth, and serve it with any good pudding-sauce. 

EGG PUDDING-SAUCE. 

Beat to a cream one cupful each of butter and sugar, the 
yolk of a raw egg, and a glass of wine ; beat the white of an 
egg to a froth ; make the sauce as quickly as possible ; when 
the ingredients first named are beaten to a cream, stir in a 
gill of boiling water, and the white of the egg, and send the 
sauce to the table at once, 

BOILED HUCKLEBERRY-PUDDING, WITH EGGS. 

Pick over, wash, and dry a quart of huckleberries, and roll 
them in flour ; sift together a quart of flour, and one tea- 



SECOA'D-COL'RS/-: .Sll7-:ETS. 463 

spoonful each of salt and baking-soda ; butter a tight tin 
pudding-mould ; beat half a cupful of butter and a cupful of 
sugar to a cream ; beat two eggs to a cream with a cupful 
of sugar ; next put the berries, flour, butter, sugar, and eggs 
into a mixing-bowl, and stir in sufficient sour milk to make a 
soft dough ; put this dough into the buttered tin mould, close 
the mould so that no water can penetrate it, put it into a pot 
of actually boiling water, and boil it steadily for three hours ; 
then turn the pudding from the mould, and serve it hot with 
any good pudding-sauce. The same pudding is excellent if 
baked in a buttered dish until the dough is quite done, for 
about half an hour. 

BERRY SAUCE. 

Mash a cupful of ripe berries ; beat a cupful of sugar and 
half a cupful of butter to a cream ; beat the white of an egg 
to a stiff froth ; mix all these ingredients lightly together, 
and then serve the sauce at once ; it should not be made 
until it is wanted for the table. 

BOILED RICE-DUMPLINGS. 

Pick over a cupful of rice, wash it in cold water, and put 
it over the fire to boil in two quarts of boiling water contain- 
ing a tablespoonful of salt ; boil the rice fast for twenty min- 
utes, then drain it on a sieve ; while the rice is being boiled, 
peel and core half a dozen medium-sized apples of good 
flavor, fill the centres with sugar and spice or with any good 
jelly or marmalade ; when the rice is drained, put some of it 
around each apple in a layer about half an inch thick, tak- 
ing care to entirely cover the apples ; tie each apple in a 
small pudding-cloth, after it has been covered with rice; 
when all the little dumplings are thus prepared, drop them 
into boiling water, and boil them steadily for an hour; then 
carefully remove the cloths, and serve the dumplings without 
breaking them apart. Use any good pudding-sauce with 



464 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

them. A raw egg may be mixed with the rice before putting 
it over the apples, by way of varying the dish. 

MAPLE-SUGAR SAUCE. 

Break half a pound of maple-sugar in small bits, put it 
into a thick saucepan with half a gill of cold water ; set the 
saucepan over the fire, and melt the sugar until it forms a 
clear sirup ; then remove it from the fire, and stir in two 
heaping tablespoonfuls of butter cut in small bits. Serve 
the sauce hot with any fruit-pudding. 

BAKED PUDDINGS. 

Baked puddings are generally considered safer for inex- 
perienced cooks to make, because there is no difficulty to be 
apprehended except burning, while they are being cooked, 
and that simply requires v^^atchfulness to guard against it. 
Many of them are very delicate, and they are more likely to 
be digestible than boiled puddings. When baked puddings 
need sauces, any of those given with the recipes for boiled 
puddings will answer. 

BAKED PLUM-PUDDING. 

Mix the following ingredients as directed in the recipe for 
Christmas plum-pudding : Half a pound each of suet, rai- 
sins, and currants ; quarter of a pound of sugar, sifted with 
one pound of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
one of salt ; one ounce each of candied citron, lemon, and 
orange-peel ; one small nutmeg, grated. Mix with them 
quickly one gill of brandy, one egg, and sufficient milk to 
make a thick batter ; put the pudding at once into a 
buttered pudding-mould, and bake it for two hours in a mod- 
erate oven. Dust it with pulverized sugar before serving it, 
and send it to the table with rum or brandy sauce. 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 465 



BAKED INDIAN-PUDDING. 

■ Mix together one cupful each of yellow Indian meal and 
molasses, pour over them a quart of boiling milk, mixing it in 
gradually ; then add a level teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoon- 
ful of ground cinnamon or ginger, and a heaping table- 
spoonful of butter, and let these ingredients cool ; when they 
are quite cold, put them into an earthen pudding-dish, set it 
in a moderate oven, and pour upon the top a pint of cold 
milk, but do not stir the milk into the pudding ; bake the 
pudding for three hours, taking care that it does not burn. 
Serve the pudding either hot or cold. 

LEMON-PUDDING. 

Make a good* pastry, and line an earthen dish with it ; rub 
some lumps of sugar on the rind of two fresh lemons, to 
absorb the oil from them, and then squeeze the lemons, and 
strain the juice ; melt six ounces or tablespoonfuls of butter 
by gentle heat ; beat the yolks of eight eggs to a cream with 
half a pound of white sugar ; last of all, beat eight whites 
to a stiff froth, mix them lightly with the other ingredients, 
put the mixture into the dish lined with pastry, and set the 
pudding in a moderate oven, to bake until the pastry is 
done ; serve the pudding hot. 

COCOANUT-PUDDING WITH SPONGE-CAKE. 

Remove the shell and brown skin from a fresh cocoanut, 
and grate it fine ; save the milk of the nut, and strain it ; 
put the grated nut into an earthen dish with a pound of stale 
sponge-cake ; add to the cocoanut-milk a tablespoonful of 
butter melted, and enough sweet milk to make a quart, and 
pour it over the nut and sponge-cake ; beat four eggs thor- 
oughly, mix them with the nut and cake, add four heaping 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and put the pudding into an earthen 



466 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

dish ; bake the pudding for half an hour in a moderate oven, 
and then serve it with powdered sugar. 

GRAPE-PUBBING. 

Butter an earthen baking-dish, and fill it with alternate 
layers of ripe grapes, sugar, and stale bread-crumbs, making 
the top layer of crumbs ; bake it in a moderate oven for 
half an hour. Serve it hot with powdered sugar. 

MARLB OR O UGH-P UDDING. 

Peel, core, and stew six large tart apples until they can 
be rubbed through a sieve with a potato-masher ; melt six 
ounces of butter by gentle heat, and mix it with the apple ; 
grate the rind and strain the juice of two lemons, and put 
them with the apple ; beat the yolks of six eggs to a cream 
with eight ounces of- sugar, and add them to the apple. 
Last of all, beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, add 
them to the pudding, and bake it in an earthen dish, lined 
with nice pastry, for about half an hour, in a moderate oven. 
Serve it hot. 

PIES AND TARTS. 

Pastry forms such a large part of American so-called 
desserts, that it is fully illustrated and described ; the pic- 
tures are copied from Gouff^'s " Royal Confectionery Book ; " 
and the method given is that of Careme, now followed by 
the best-trained masters of the art of cookery. A great deal 
of patience and considerable practice are required to reach 
the point of success with puff-paste, but it is usually thought 
worth all necessary labor. It should always be made in the 
coolest available place, and in the intervals of doing other 
kitchen work, or the process will seem long and tiresome. 

For those who do not wish to undertake puff-paste, re- 
cipes are given for several easier and excellent pastries. 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 



467 



PUFF-PASTE. 

The following recipe is reproduced from the author's 
" Baltimore Recipes ; " the cuts which illustrate the process 
are copied from Gouff^'s " Royal Confectionery," as are 
many others in this volume. A smooth hard-wood roller, 
and a "very thick hard-wood or stone pastry-slab are needed, 
the stone being preferable because it keeps the pastry cool. 
First wet the slab with a litde water, lay upon it half a pound 




Circle of Flour for Puff-Paste. 

of butter, work out all the salt and buttermilk by kneading 
it with both hands, and then keep out about an ounce of 
butter; fold the rest in a floured napkin, and lay it upon 
some ice. Second, dry the slab thoroughly, sift upon it half 
a pound of fine white flour, form this in a circle or well, as 
shown in the first cut, putting aside about two ounces to 
dust the slab with ; into the well drop the ounce of butter 
reserved and the yolk of one egg, and work them to a cream 
with the tips of the fingers ; to this gradually add the flour 



468 PRACTICAL AMERICAX COOKERY. 

from the well, with enough ice-cold water poured on from 
time to time as required to form a dough about the consist- 
ency of shortcake (about one cup of water, more or less, 
will be used, according to the body of the flour) ; now work 
the paste about on the slab until it leaves it clean and free, 
and does not cling to the fingers ; take it up in a ball, and 
dust the slab slighdy with flour, lay on the paste, flatten it 
down, and beat it with the roller for five minutes, turning and 
doubling it constantly, or knead it like bread for five min- 




Butter enclosed in Paste. 



utes. This process toughens it so that the butter will not 
break through in the subsequent manipulations. Third, 
raise the paste, and dust the slab again with flour ; lay the 
paste on it, and roll out to a square of about eight inches ; 
turn the face of the pasce, or the paste which has been next 
the roller, down upon the slab, lay upon it the lump of cold 
butter, and fold the paste up and over it so as to cover every 
part ; the butter may be enclosed in a square, as shown in 
the second cut, or the paste wrapped over it to form a ball ; 
turn the ball thus formed upside down, roll it out gently and 



SECOXD-COUKSE SWEETS. 



469 



evenly until the butter is incorporated with the paste, taking 
care not to break through the latter, as all the air-cells that 




Puif-Paste tolled out. 

can be gathered unbroken in the paste assist its rising ; now 
turn the sheet of paste gently about on the slab, so that 
every part may be rolled to the same thickness of about one- 



470 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



(juarter of an inch ; in turning the paste Hft its outer edge, 
and gently lap it over the roller toward you, being sure not 
to tear it ; roll it gently inward, keeping it around the roller, 
and lifting it clear from the board when you wish to turn it, 
or change its position in any way ; when you wish to replace 
it upon the slab, gently unwind it from the roller, letting the 
face or part next the roller fall upon the slab. Fourth, the 




Puff-Paste after a "turn." 

paste is now ready for forming the flakes ; to do this, turn 
the face down, fold it in three thicknesses lengthwise, making 
it three times as long as it is wide, as shown in the third cut ; 
and then folding it again three times to make the square 
shown in the fourth cut ; lay it in a long pan floured, set this 
in a larger pan of ice, and place upon it a third pan filled with 
ice, so that the paste will be completely surrounded with ice ; 
let the pan stand for five minutes in the ice-box, or in th«i 



SECOXn-COi'/^SE SWEETS. 47 1 

coolest jjlace you can command, always bearing in mind 
that the cooler the paste is kept, the better it will be. Re- 
peat the folding process described in the "fourth" part, six 
times in succession, every time setting the paste in ice for 
five minutes, every time turning the face of the paste with 
the folds down to the slab, and every time folding in an 
opposite direction, or the butter will lie at one side, and the 
paste will rise unevenly in baking. Fifth, to finish : After 
the sixth time of folding, roll the paste out to the thickness 
of one-quarter of an inch, and cut out in shape with a knife 
for pies, or for patties with a sharp tin cutter of the size re- 
quired, marking in the centre of each patty a circle an inch in 
diameter with a small pastry- cutter. For small tarts or patties 
have the paste one-quarter of an inch thick ; for large ones, 
or vol-au-vents, have it about one-third thicker ; for patties, 
use two layers of paste, put one over the other after cutting 
out, and wet the under layer with a soft brush dipped in 
cold water ; brush the top of the second layer with an egg 
beaten up ; this is called doree, or gilding, and the process 
gives the pastry a beautiful golden blaze. In forming vol- 
au-venis or large pastries, use three or even four thicknesses 
of the paste, putting them together as for patties, brushing 
the under layers with cold water, and gilding the top. Sixth, 
and lastly, wet the baking-pan with water, instead of greas- 
ing it, lay the paste upon it, set it for five minutes upon the 
ice in order that the layers may adhere, and put in a mod- 
erate oven five minutes so that all the air-cells will have a 
chance to expand ; then finish at a heat of about 300 degrees 
Fahrenheit, and be sure that the patties are done before 
taking them from the oven, or they will fall. 

PATE D' OFFICE. 

Pate d' office, or office-paste, which is mentioned in the 
recipe for St. Honor^ cake, is made by sifting a pound of 



472 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

flour upon the pastry-board, and making a hollow in the 
middle of the flour as shown in the illustrations of puff-paste ; 
into the centre put half a pound of powdered sugar, two 
whole eggs and the yolks of two more, and a level teaspoon- 
ful of salt ; mix these ingredients to a smooth paste with 
the tips of the fingers, and then knead the paste thoroughly 
as directed in the recipe for puff-paste, until it is smooth 
and firm ; if the paste is too dry to knead well, add one 
or more egg-yolks, to produce the proper consistency, and 
then roll it out and use it. Office-paste is used for making 
foundations and ornaments for various custards, baked egg- 
puddings, and creamy pies ; it is palatable, and more digest- 
ible than pastry made with butter or shortening. 

FRUIT PATTIES. 

After pufif-paste is made, cut patty-cases from it with the 
round pastry-cutters, a picture of which is given ; the cut- 
ters are either fluted, as shown in the case, or plain circles, 
like the one in the engraving below. The cut of the first 
stage of patties shows the round for a patty, and the pastry 
from which it is cut ; that of the second stage shows the 
plain cutter, one round of pastry with some mince-meat laid 
on it, a second round laid over the mince-meat, and then the 
two pressed together by the use of a small cutter, the under 
edges of the top round being wet to retain it in place while 
the patty is being baked ; the top of the patty is gilded with 
beaten egg before it is baked. Open patties are made like 
the cases for oyster patties, and after they are cold they are 
filled with any good preserved fruit, and dished on a napkin, 
as shown in the last engra\ing which accompanies this 
recipe. 

CREAM CRUST. 

Add half a level teaspoonful of salt to half a pint of cream, 
and then stir in enough sifted flour to make a pastry suffi- 



SECOXn-COUA'SE SWEETS. 



An 







fTasjii^^ 



Fluted and Plain Patty-Cutters in Case. 




Patties, First Stage. 






Patties, Second Stage. 




Dish of Fruit Patties. 



474 PRACTICAL AMERICA \ COOh-ERY. 

ciently stiff to roll out; handle this jjastry as little as possi- 
ble, and use it as soon as it is made. 

Sour cream may be used, a teaspoonful of saleratus being 
dissolved in each pint before it is mixed with the flour. 

LARB PIE-CRUST. 

Chop together in a bowl one pound of flour and half a 
pound of firm lard, ciitting the lard in little flakes ; add half 
a teaspoonful of salt to the flour, and sufficient cold water 
to make a soft paste ; turn the paste Uiut on a floured board, 
and roll it half an inch thick ; dust the paste with flour, and 
put a quarter of a pound of butter over it in small bits ; roll 
the paste up, enclosing the butter completely, then roll and 
fold it several times, using flour enough to prevent sticking 
to the board or roller ; then use it for pies or puddings. 

GOOD PLAIN PASTRY. 

The secret of success in making pastry is to work quickly 
in a cool room, and to keep the pastry as cold as possible. 
Even in making plain pastry, only the best flour and butter 
should be used ; the flour should be freshly sifted, and the 
butter worked with the hands in plenty of ice-water until 
it assumes a waxy appearance and touch ; if it is worked 
quickly and lightly, it will not stick to the hands ; when the 
butter is of the proper consistency, it should be patted with 
the hands into a cake about an inch thick, wrapped in a 
floured towel, and put in a dish set on ice in summer, or out 
of doors in winter, so that it may become quite cold while 
the paste is being prepared ; allow half a pound of butter 
to a pound of flour. After the flour is sifted, mix with it a 
teaspoonful of salt, and with a sharp knife chop into it one- 
third of the butter ; then quickly mix with it enough ice- 
water to make a dough which does not stick to the hands ; 
the mixing may be done with the knife or the hand, but it 



SECOND-CO URSE S WEE TS. 



475 



must be done quickly ; next, lightly flour a smooth pastry- 
board or marble slab, lay the dough on it, and with a floured 
roller roll it out about half an inch thick ; cut the rest of the 
butter in thick slices, and lay it upon the dough, with spaces 
of about an inch between the slices ; dust flour lightly over 
the butter, and fold the paste over it in such a way as to 




Pasirii Pincers. 



completely enclose it ; then gently roll it to the thickness of 
an inch, dust a little flour over it, fold it several times, and 
again roll it out ; if the butter shows anywhere through the 
paste, put it in a floured towel, and cool it for about fifteen 
minutes ; then roll it out, fold it, and roll it again two or 
three times, and use it for pies. If the pastry is cold and 



476 PRACTICAL AMERICA.Y COOKERY. 

the oven hot, the pie-crust will be good when baked. If 
the crust browns before 'the contents of the pie appear to 
be cooked, lay a piece of paper ever it. 

In handling pastry, take care not to press or heat it by 
letting the hands rest on it; in forming the crimped edge 
upon an open pie, use such pastry-pincers as are shown in 
the picture of that implement, or press the scallops with a 
knife, rather than the fingers. 

CHRISTMAS MINCE-MEAT. 

The following recipe for mince-meat has been printed by 
the author several times ; but she ventures to repeat it, be- 
cause it has always given satisfaction. In common with the 
recipe for Christmas plum-pudding, she has taught it for 
years, and sees no reason for changing it. 

Use equal parts of boiled beef and tongue. If the tongue 
is hard and dry, soak it over night in plenty of cold water ; 
in the morning put it over the fire in a large pot nearly full 
of cold water, and let the water gradually reach the boiling- 
point ; when the water begins to boil, pour it off, and replace 
it with fresh cold water ; again heat the water, with the 
tongue in it, to the boiling-point, and boil it steadily and 
slowly for one hour. At the end of an hour put in with the 
tongue three pounds of lean beef cut from the neck or 
round, add a tablespoonful of salt to the pot-liquor, and 
continue the boiling by a very gentle heat for three hours 
longer ; then uncover the pot, set it off the fire, take out the 
tongue and skin it, and then return it to the pot, and let 
both tongue and beef cool in the pot-liquor. 

When the tongue and beef are cold, free the beef from 
all skin and gristle, and chop it fine. Cut off from the 
tongue the fleshy parts about the roots, rejecting the gristle, 
and add to them enough of the trimmings from the tongue 
to make two pounds ; chop this fine, and put it with the 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 477 

beef. Remove all membrane from three pounds of fresh 
beef-suet, chop it fine, and add it to the chopped beef and 
tongue. Next add to the meat and suet the following named 
ingredients : Four pounds of chopped tart apples, weighed 
after they are pared and cored ; four pounds of raisins stoned 
and chopped, not too fine ; two pounds of currants, picked 
over, well washed, and then rubbed dry in a clean towel, 
and sifted to free them from stems ; one pound of citron 
cut in small, thin slices ; a quarter of a pound each of can- 
died orange and lemon peel, sliced thin ; one pound of 
sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter almonds, weighed 
after the shells are removed ; blanch the almonds by pouring 
boiling water over them after they are shelled, and then 
rubbing the skin off with a clean towel, and chop them, not 
too fine ; add the grated yellow rind and juice of four lem- 
ons and four oranges. Sweeten the mince-meat with four 
pounds of coffee-sugar ; season it with two level tablespoon- 
fuls of salt, one level teaspoonful each of pepper, ground 
cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and mace, and two medium-sized 
nutmegs grated. Next add to the mince-meat one quart of 
Madeira wine, half a pint of good brandy, and sufficient 
sweet cider to moisten it. Mix the mince-meat thoroughly, 
taste it, and add, if required, more sugar, salt, and spice ; 
remember that in good mince-meat no one flavor should 
predominate ; it should have a rich, even taste. Mix it 
thoroughly, and let it stand at least one day before using it. 
Mince-meat carefully made after this recipe will keep all 
winter, if covered and placed where it is cool. 

PLAIN MINCE-MEAT. 

Use two pounds of lean beef from the neck or shoulder ; 
boil it gently until it is tender, putting it over the fire in 
boiling water enough to cover it ; when it is quite tender, 
cool and chop it. Prepare the following named ingredients, 



478 PRACTICAL AM ERIC AX COOKERY. 

and add them to the meat : one pound each of suet, raisins, 
and currants ; a (luarter of a pound of citron, four pounds of 
apples, two pounds of sugar, two nutmegs, two level table- 
spoonfuls of salt ; one teaspoonful each of pepper, ground 
cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and mace ; one tablespoonful of 
essence of lemon ; half a pint each of wine and molasses ; 
one quart of sweet cider ; one gill of brandy. Moisten the 
mince-meat with some of the pot-Hquor in which the beef 
was boiled, adding to it the fat which forms on the top of 
the cold pot-liquor. -Make the seasoning of the mince-meat 
palatable, and keep it over a day before using it. 

This recipe has been printed before, like the preceding 
one ; but it would not be well to omit it on that account. 

FRUIT MINCE-PIES. 

This mince will keep for several weeks in cold weather, 
and makes a good variation from the usual mince-meat. 
Pick over, wash, and rub dry on a towel, a pound of dried 
currants ; slice two ounces of citron, seed one pound of 
raisins ; remove all skin and membrane from a pound of 
beef-suet, and chop it quite fine ; pare and core apples 
enough to weigh two pounds, and chop them fine ; grate 
the rind and squeeze the juice of one lemon and one 
orange ; mix all these ingredients thoroughly ; add to them 
a pound of sugar, a gill of brandy, two gills of good port„ 
and salt, ground mace, cinnamon, and cloves to taste ; more 
sugar may be required. If all this mince is not used, pack 
it tightly in glass jars, lay a round of paper dipped in brandy 
in each jar, and close the jars air-tight until it is needed for 
use. 

APPLE AND PIE-PLANT PIE. 

Use equal quantities of tart apples and pie-plant, or gar- 
den rhubarb, and a good ])astry, for which many recipes 
have been given ; peel and slice the fruit ; heap it in a deep 



SECO.VD-COURSE SWEETS. 479 

earthen pie-dish, cover it thickly with sugar, and wet the 
edges of the dish ; roll the pastry about a quarter of an inch 
thick, cover the pie with it, being careful not to press the 
edges of the pastry ; cut two or three little slits in the pas- 
try, and then bake the pie for three-quarters of an hour in 
a moderate oven, or until the fruit is done. Sift powdered 
sugar over the pie, and use it hot or cold. 

RHUBARB-PIE, NEW-ENGLAND STYLE. 

Make a good pastry, for which directions have already 
been given. Peel some garden rhubarb, or pie-plant, and 
cut it in small pieces ; after lining the- pie-plates with pastry, 
fill them with layers of rhubarb and sugar, and if a lemon is 
available use the grated yelloV rind for flavoring ; cover the 
pie, wetting the edges of the pastry to make them adhere ; 
make several cuts in the top crust, and bake the pie in a 
moderate oven until both top and bottom crust are nicely 
browned ; if the bottom of the pie cooks faster than the 
top, put a second plate under it when it is quite brown ; if 
the top browns before the bottom is done, cover it with 
brown paper. Dust the top crust with powdered sugar after 
the pie is done, and use it either hot or cold. 

CHERRY-TART. 

Make a pastry according to directions already given, or as 
follows : Lay half a pound of butter in a bowl of very cold 
water, and work it for five minutes with the hands, touching 
it very quickly and lightly, so that it may be quite smooth and 
yet firm ; then wrap it in a cloth dusted with flour, lay it on 
a plate, and place it in the refrigerator or in an equally cool 
place. Put a pound of flour in a bowl with a level tea- 
spoonful of salt, add to it the yolk of an egg, and sufficient 
very cold water to mix it to a medium soft paste ; work 
quickly and very lightly, and then roll the paste out about 



48o 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



as large as a dinner-plate ; cut the butter in rather thick 
slices, lay them irregularly about on the paste, dust it with 
dry flour, and fold the paste in such a way as to enclose the 
butter ; roll the paste out two or three times very quickly 
and lightly, and then use it at once, or, if it is to be kept 
any time, wrap it in a floured cloth, lay it on a plate, and 
set in a refrigerator or a very cold place. Stem and stone 
plenty of cherries. Use rather deep pie-plates or earthen 
dishes ; line them down the sides with strips of pastry, or 
use an under-crust, as is preferred. Be very careful not to 
press the cut edges of the j)astry ; heap the fruit high in the 




Large Fruit Tart. 



dishes, and sprinkle over it sufficient sugar to sweeten it ; 
lay a top crust lightly on the fruit, as shown in the accom- 
panying picture, after slightly wetting the under crust near 
the edge, to make it adhere, still without crushing down or 
pressing the edges of the crust, because that would make it 
heavy and sodden ; about half an inch within the edge of 
the upper crust lay the forefinger, curved in such a way as 
to form a groove by slightly pressing it down ; cut four or 
five places diagonally across the groove, so that the fruit- 
juice may boil out into the groove, instead ' f e-caping from 
the dish ; remember to touch the crust always lightly and 



SECONB-COURSE SWEETS. 48 1 

delicately, so that it may be tender and crisp ; brush the 
crust with beaten egg, and then bake the pie in a rather hot 
oven until nicely browned. Use it either hot, or let it cool, 
and then dust it with powdered sugar. Whipped cream, for 
which a recipe is given elsewhere, is very good with this, as 
with any fruit pie. 

RASPBERR Y-PIE. 

Made a pastry according to the directions already given, 
and line a deep pie-plate with it ; remove the stems from a 
pint of raspberries and a pint of currants, and put them 
into the pie-plate ; sprinkle a cupful of sugar over the fruit, 
and then cover it with pastry, wetting the edges of the crusts 
to make then:\ adhere ; cut two or three slits in the upper 
crust, brush it with beaten egg, and bake the pie in a mod- 
erate oven. When it is done, dust it with sugar. 

GOOSEBERRY-TART. 

Pick over a quart of green gooseberries, removing the 
tops and stems ; wash them in cold water, and drain them. 

Make a nice pastry, and line a deep earthen pie-dish 
about an inch down the sides ; then put in the gooseberries, 
mixed with half a cupful of seedless raisins, and a pound 
of sugar ; cover the tart, wetting the edges of the pastry to 
make them adhere ; press the finger, slightly curved, all 
around the top of the tart, just inside the edge of the crust, 
to form a groove ; in this groove make three or four cuts 
with a small, sharp knife, and then bake the tart until the 
crust is nicely browned. Serve it hot or cold, with plenty 
of powdered sugar. 

Whipped cream made as directed elsewhere is a delicious 
accompaniment for gooseberry tart. 

FOREST- CITY LEMON-PIE. 

Make a good pastry, and line a deep plate with it. Mix 
together the following named ingredients : the grated rind 



482 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

and juice of two lemons, one cupful of raisins seeded and 
chopped fine, half a cujjful of cracker-dust, a cupful of 
boiling water, and a cupful and a half of sugar ; stir all 
these ingredients in a saucej^an over the fire until they boil, 
and then fill the plate with them ; put an upper crust on the 
pie, wetting the edges to make it adhere ; brush the crust 
with beaten egg, make two or three little cuts in it, and bake 
it in a moderate oven until it is nicely browned. 

SWEET-POTATO PIE, PHILADELPHIA STYLE. 

Make a nice pastry according to directions already given, 
and line earthen pie-plates with it. Boil, peel, and mash 
sweet potatoes ; to each pint of potato-pulp add one quart 
of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter melted, four eggs well 
beaten, a level teaspoonful each of salt and ground cinna- 
mon, and sugar enough to suit the taste ; put this mixture 
into the pie-plates, and bake the pies light brown in a mod- 
erate oven. Use them hot or cold. 

SQUASH-PIE. 

Peel a Hubbard squash, cut it in pieces about two inches 
square, remove the seeds without taking away any of the 
substance of the squash, and put it to steam in a colander 
closely covered and set over a pot of boiling water ; or place 
it in a porcelain-lined saucepan without water, and set it 
over a gentle fire where it will soften slowly without burning, 
stirring it occasionally to prevent burning ; or boil it until 
tender, in sufficient water to cover it. 

When the squash is tender, drain it until it is quite free 
from water, and rub it through a seive or a fine colander 
with a wooden spoon or a potato-masher. Mix one quart 
of the squash so prepared with one quart of milk, four eggs 
well beaten, one tablespoonful of mixed ground cinnamon, 
mace, and ginger, one teaspoonful of salt and one cupful of 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 483 

sugar, and use it to fill two large pie-plates lined with a good 
plain pastry. Do not cover the pies with pastry, but grate 
a little nutmeg over the top, or sprinkle over them the 
grated yellow rind of a lemon. 

PUMPKIN-PIE. 

Prepare the pumpkin by boiling and mashing it as di- 
rected for the preparation of squash for pies, and after that 
finish it as follows : to a pint of mashed pumpkin add a pint 
of milk, six eggs beaten smooth, quarter of a pound of sugar, 
a tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, and a teaspoonful of 
salt. 

Or, to each pint of mashed pumpkin add a quart of milk, 
six eggs beaten smooth, a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
salt, a heaping tablespoonful of mixed ground spices, and 
two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter melted by gentle heat. 

EACH TARTS. 

Line patty-pans with puff-paste, as directed in the recipe 
for pineapple tarts ; and when they are done, put half a 




Dish of Fruit Tarts. 



preserved peach in each one, with a little whipped cream, as 
shown in the accompanying engraving. 



484 



PKACriCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



PINEAPPLE TARTS. 

Make a puff-paste according to the directions already 
given. Remove the "crown of a ripe pineapple, cut the 
fruit in quarters, cut out the core, and grate the fruit down 
to the rind ; mix with the grated pineapple half its weight 
of powdered sugar, and put it in a cool place for an hour, 
together with the pastry ; then put the pineapple and sugar 
over the fire in a porcelain kettle, and simmer them gently 
until they are tender. While the pineapple is being cooked, 
line some patty-pans with the pastry, and bake the tart-shells 
so made ; fill the tart-shells with the stewed pineapple ; use 
the tarts hot or cold. 



BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

Make the pastry according to the directions already given ; 
cut it in squares large enough to fold over the apples ; peel 




Apple and Pear Dumplings. 



and core sound apples of medium size and tart flavor, put 
one in the centre of each piece of pastry, fill the apples with 



SECOND-COURSE SIVEETS. 485 

sugar and half a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and fold 
the pastry up over each apple lightly, wetting the tips of 
the corners and pressing them lightly together ; arrange the 
dumplings in a baking-pan ; brush them with beaten egg, 
and bake them for about half an hour, or until they are done, 
in a moderate oven. Serve them hot or cold with powdered 
sugar and cream, or with either of the sauces for which 
recipes are given elsewhere. 

Or, in covering the apple with pastry, enclose it in the 
manner shown in th'e accompanying picture. 

PEAR DUMPLINGS. 

Make a good pastry, and cut it in pieces large enough to 
enclose a medium-size pear ; peel the pears, leaving them 
whole, and keeping the stem intact ; enclose them in pastry 
as shown in the accompanying engraving, brush them with 
beaten egg, and bake them in a moderate oven ; use the 
dumplings hot or cold, with powdered sugar or sauce. 

FRESH APPLE PAN-DOWDY. 

Butter a deep brown earthen pudding-dish ; peel and slice 
apples enough to fill it ; for a two-quart dish, use a teaspoon- 
ful eacX of powdered cinnamon and salt, half a pound of 
brown sugar, half a pint of cider, or the same quantity 
of water ; mix the spice and sugar among the apples, and 
pour the cider over them ; then make a plain pastry accord- 
ing to directions already given ; put the pastry over the 
apples, place the pan-dowdy in a moderate oven, and bake 
it slowly for about three hours, taking care that the crust 
does not burn. The pan-dowdy may be eaten either hot 
or cold, with sugar, or sugar and cream. 

DRIED APPLE PAN-DOWDY. 

Wash a quart of dried apples ; soak them over night in 
cold water; the next day, stew them soft in the water 



486 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

in which they were soaked, with a cupful of brown sugar 
and a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon or cloves. Put the 
stewed apples into a large earthen baking-dish, lay on them 
a tablespoonful of butter, and cover them with half an inch 
of pie-crust. Bake the pan-dowdy in a moderate oven for 
about half an hour, or until the crust is done ; then break 
the crust down into the apple with a spoon, and use the dish 
hot or cold. 

HOT AND COLD BREADS, FRITTEJ^S AND GRIDDLE- 
CAKES. 

The variety of hot and cold breads is very great ; only 
specimens of different kinds can be given here, for there are 
enough to fill a large volume of American breads alone. 
Many breakfast and luncheon breads are included in this 
chapter. The dinner bread proper is a rather thick slice, 
or square piece, of white bread laid upon the napkin. 
French dinner bread is baked in a long roll so that there 
shall be plenty of crust. Of the fried cakes, only the fritters 
are suitable for dinners ; they are in place among the entrees, 
but often take the place of dessert at informal family din- 
ners. The waffles are special breakfast and supper cakes, 
and the griddle-cakes are generally used at breakfast. 

HOME-MADE BREAD. 

These two bread recipes, like several others in this vol- 
ume, are reproduced from the author's Baltimore Recipes, 
because the formulas have stood the test of several years' 
trial in the school of cookery. 

Two methods are given, with personal preference for the 
compressed-yeast bread, because it is the quickest, and best 
preserves the nutriment of the flour. 

To make yeast, boil two ounces of hops in two quarts of 
water for half an hour ; strain the liquid, and cool it until it 



SECOND-COURSE SiVEETS. 487 

is only lukewarm, then add half a pound of brown sugar, 
two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one pound of flour ; let this 
leaven ferment four days in a warm place, stirring it when- 
ever it foams over the top of the jar in which it is placed ; 
on the third day add to it three pounds of potatoes boiled 
and mashed ; on the fourth day strain and bottle it, and 
keep it in a cool place. 

To make bread, put seven pounds of flour in a deep 
wooden bowl ; in the centre of it put a tablespoonful of salt, 
a teaspoonful of sugar, a gill of yeast, and sufficient luke- 
warm water to make a soft dough (about three pints) ; mix 
these ingredients with the hands until they form a smooth, 
shining dough ; if necessary, use a little extra flour, only 
enough to facilitate the working of the dough ; flour the 
bowl on the bottom and sides, so that the bread will not 
stick to it, cover it with a thick towel folded several times, 
set it in a warm place protected from draughts, and let it 
rise over night. In the morning knead the dough fifteen 
minutes, divide it into four loaves, put them into floured 
baking-pans, cover them with a folded towel, and set them 
in a warm place to rise twice their height ; when they are so 
risen, prick them at the sides with a fork, and bake them in a 
moderate oven until a knitting or trussing needle can be run 
into them without being made sticky. Be sure that they are 
well done, but do not let them burn. 

COMPRESSED-YEAST BREAD. 

When it is possible to obtain fresh compressed yeast, also 
called German yeast, an excellent bread can be made in 
about two hours and a half; the rapidity of the leavening or 
" raising " the dough is advantageous, because less of the nu- 
tritive elements of the flour are lost than by following the 
long process. For two loaves of bread, use three pounds of 
flour, about a quart of water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and 



488 PRACTJCAf. AMENICAX COOKERY. 

an ounce of fresh compressed yeast ; dissolve the yeast in a 
pint of lukewarm water ; stir into it sufficient flour to make 
a thick batter ; cover the bowl containing the batter or 
sponge with a folded towel, and set it in a warm place to 
rise ; if properly covered and heated, it will rise to a light 
foam in half an hour ; then stir into it the salt dissolved in a 
little warm water, add the rest of the flour, and sufficient 
lukewarm water to make a dough stiff enough to knead ; 
knead it five minutes, divide it into two loaves, put them 
in floured baking-pans, cover them with a folded towel, and 
set them in a warm place to rise twice their height ; then 
bake them as directed in the preceding recipe. 

In raising the sponge, be sure that the heat is not suffi- 
cient to "scald" or harden it, as that will prevent fermenta- 
tion ; therefore do not place it where the hand cannot be 
held with comfort ; keep it covered from draughts. If 
when it is light it has become at all soured, as it sometimes 
will in summer, stir into it, before adding the'balance of the 
flour, a saltspoonful of baking-soda dissolved in a very little 
water. 

The dough made for home-made bread can be baked as 
raised biscuit by kneading in with it a litde sugar and 
melted butter, or it can be boiled in soups and stews as 
raised dumplings. 

To test the heat of the oven, follow the method of Jules 
Gouff6, the celebrated chef of the Paris Jockey Club : the 
"moderate oven" temperature is that degree of heat which 
will turn ordinary writing-paper dark yellow or buff, that is, 
the color of kindling-wood ; put a sheet of paper in the 
oven, and close the door ; if the paper blazes, the oven is too 
hot ; arrange the dampers to lower the heat for ten minutes, 
then again test it with more paper ; it may be necessary to 
try the temperature several times, but the time thus used is 
well spent. 



SECOXD-COU/<SE SWEETS. 489 



BREAKFAST ROLLS. 

In the middle of the afternoon bake two large white pota- 
toes, and mash them perfectly smooth before they cool ; add 
to the mashed potato two tablespoonfuls of white sugar and 
a cupful each of flour and lukewarm water, and beat the 
mixture for five minutes, or until it foams ; meantime dis- 
solve half a small cake of compressed yeast in a gill of luke- 
warm water, and add it to the sponge when it foams, or use 
instead a gill of home-made yeast ; cover the bowl contain- 
ing the sponge with a thick towel folded several times, and 
set it where no draught of air can strike it. Just before bed- 
time put the sponge into a bread mixing-bowl with four 
quarts of sifted flour, a level tablespoonful of salt, a small 
cupful of sugar, and four tablespoonfuls of lard or butter 
chopped or rubbed into the flour ; add enough lukewarm 
water to make a dough stiff" enough to knead, and knead 
it for half an hour, using flour enough to prevent the dough 
sticking to the hands or the board. When the dough is 
smooth and shining, put it into a buttered bowl or pan 
large enough for it to double its volume in rising ; butter 
the top of the dough, cover the bowl with a folded towel, 
and set it in a place free from draughts in summer, and in 
cold weather near enough to the fire to prevent any chill- 
ing of the dough. Two hours before breakfast the next 
morning, knead the dough again for five minutes ; form 
some of it in little rolls, and the rest in loaves ; put them 
in buttered baking-pans, brush. the surfaces with milk or a 
little butter, cover them with a folded towel, put the pans 
where they will be shielded from draughts, and where the 
temperature will be about 98° F. ; let them rise until they 
are double their size, and then bake them ; the rolls will 
be all the better if there is time for them to rise to more 
than twice the original size before they are put into the 



490 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

oven, because tlie heat penetrates them so quickly that 
there is very Httle chance for the expansion to continue ; 
the larger volume of loaves of dough excludes the heat 
longer, and they rise after they are put into the oven ; the 
rolls should be put into a hot oven, and baked for about 
fifteen or twenty minutes; less heat is required for baking 
bread, and before the loaf is taken from the oven a sharp 
small knife or a bright steel needle should be run into the 
middle of the loaf, to make sure that it is thoroughly 
cooked ; if there is the slightest particle of moisture on the 
steel vi^hen it is withdrawn from the bread, the baking should 
be continued. 

POTATO ROLLS. 

Use a pint of mashed potato mixed with a pint of luke- 
warm milk in which quarter of a pound of lard or butter has 
been melted; dissolve also in the milk half an ounce of 
compressed yeast and a teaspoonful of salt ; add to these 
ingredients enough flour to make a batter thick enough to 
hold for a moment a drop let fall from the mixing-spoon ; 
cover this batter in an earthen bowl to prevent chilling by 
draughts, and place it in a moderately warm place until it is 
light and foaming ; the length of time required for rising 
will depend upon the temperature of the room ; if the heat 
is too great, the fermentation cannot take place properly, 
and the rising will be checked ; the bowl, therefore, should 
not be put where the hand cannot be borne with comfort, 
for the heat will be too great. When the sponge is light, 
mix with it enough more flour to make the dough stiff 
enough to knead without sticking to the hands or the pastry- 
board ; knead the dough for five minutes, roll it out about 
half an inch thick, cut it out in rounds with the biscuit-cut- 
ter, lay two together and put them upon a buttered baking- 
pan, cover again with a folded towel, and let them rise again 
to twice their height ; when the rolls arc light, brush them 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 491 

with melted butter, and bake them in a moderate oven for 
■ about twenty minutes, or until they are done, then serve 
them hot. 

Mashed sweet potatoes may be similarly used. 

PARKER-HOUSE ROLLS. 

Put two quarts of flour into a deep bowl or pan ; make a 
hollow in the middle of the flour, and put in the following 
ingredients without mixing them, and in the order in which 
they are named : one tablespoonful of sugar, one of butter 
broken in small pieces, one pint of cold scalded milk, and 
half a pint of yeast ; cover the pan with a folded towel, and 
place it in a cool part of the kitchen ; this being done in the 
evening, the dough will be risen in the morning ; then add 
to it a level teaspoonful of salt dissolved in a little warm 
water, mix all the ingredients, knead the dough for fifteen 
minutes, then return it to the pan, cover it with the cloth, 
and let it rise again for six hours ; then again knead the 
dough for two or three minutes, roll it out evenly about half 
an inch thick, and cut it with a smooth biscuit-cutter ; put a 
small piece of butter on one side of each round of dough, 
and double them ; put the rolls in a buttered baking-pan, 
cover them with a folded cloth, set the pan in a moderately 
warm place, and let the rolls rise for half an hour ; then 
bake them in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes, and 
serve them hot. 

ASTOR-HOUSE ROLLS. 

Put two quarts of sifted flour into a deep bowl, make a 
hollow in the centre, and put into it the following ingredi- 
ents : a pint of lukewarm milk with a tablespoonful of but- 
ter dissolved in it, a level teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful 
of sugar, and two gills of yeast ; with the hand mix with 
these ingredients enough of the flour to form a smooth thin 
batter; cover the bowl with a folded cloth, and put it in a 



492 PRACTICAL AMERICAN^ COOKERY. 

warm place until the batter is light and foamy ; then mix in 
the rest of the flour, knead the dough for five minutes, cover 
it again, and let it stand until it is twice its original size j 
when the dough is light, roll and shape it, and bake the rolls 
as directed in the recipe for Parker-House rolls. 

BAKING-POWBER BISCUIT. 

Sift together a quart of flour, a level teaspoonful of salt, 
and two heaping teaspoonfuls of any good baking-powder ; 
see that the oven is of the proper temperature, as indicated 
in the recipe for compressed-yeast bread, and butter the 
baking-pan ; rub or chop two tablespoonfuls of lard or but- 
ter into the flour ; quickly mix it to as soft a dough as can 
be easily rolled out, with about a pint of cold water ; roll 
out the dough on a floured pastry-board, cut out the biscuit 
with a floured biscuit-cutter, and lay them in the buttered 
baking-pan ; brush the biscuit with milk, or a teaspoonful 
of sugar dissolved in a little cold water, and bake them as 
directed in the preceding recipes. 

BUTTERMILK BISCUIT. 

Sift a quart of flour with a heaping teaspoonful of soda, 
and a level teaspoonful of salt ; rub into the flour a heaping 
teaspoonful of lard ; butter or flour a baking-pan, and see 
that the oven is quite hot ; then quickly mix with the pre- 
pared flour a pint of buttermilk, shape the biscuit, and bake 
them in a hot oven. 

BEATEN BISCUIT. 

Rub a tablespoonful each of butter and lard in a quart of 
sifted flour, add a level teaspoonful of salt, and then with 
the hands mix in sufficient milk to form a rather stiff dough ; 
flour the moulding-board, put the dough on it, flour the roller, 
and beat the dough out flat with it ; fold it repeatedly, and 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 493 

beat it flat again until it blisters and cracks ; when the little 
blisters or air-bubbles are abundant, which will be in about 
a half-hour, tear off pieces of the dough as large as an egg, 
mould them in the hands to the size of a small biscuit, prick 
each one on top with a fork, place them in buttered or 
floured baking-pans, and bake light brown in a moderate 
oven. 

RAISED BISCUIT. 

Heat a pint of milk to melt a heaping tablespoonful of 
butter, and then cool it until it is lukewarm ; beat an egg 
smoothly, add to it a level teaspoonful of salt, a gill of good 
yeast, a quart of flour, and the lukewarm milk ; cover the 
bowl or pan containing this sponge with a folded towel, and 
let it stand over night in a place warm enough to insure its 
rising properly ; the next morning knead the dough gently 
for five minutes, using enough flour to prevent its sticking to 
the hands ; make it up in small biscuit, put them into a but- 
tered baking-pan, cover them with a folded towel, and put 
the pan in a warm place for half an hour, or until the biscuit 
have swollen to twice their original size ; do not put the pan 
where it is too hot to hold the hand ; when the biscuit are 
light, brush them over the surface with a little sugar dissolved 
in milk, or with melted butter, and then bake them brown 
in a quick oven, and ser\'e them hot. 

GRAHAM GEMS AND BISCUIT. 

Mix a quart of Graham flour to a thick batter with cold 
water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and beat the batter until it 
is full of air-bubbles, then bake it at once in buttered gem- 
pans. The operation must be very quickly accomplished to 
be successful. 

Graham biscuit are made like wheat biscuit, substituting 
Graham for wheat flour. 



494 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

RAISED GRAHAM BISCUIT. 

In the evening mix together one cupful of wheat flour, 
three cupfuls of Graham flour, three tablespoonfuls each of 
yeast and molasses, and two cupfuls of warm water ; cover 
the sponge with a folded towel, and set it in a warm place 
to rise over night. The next morning put the sponge into 
small buttered tins, or use just enough flour to make it up 
into biscuit, which lay in a buttered baking-pan, and bake 
them in a moderate oven. 

HUCKLEBERRY BISCUIT. 

Pick over a quart of berries, and roll them in dry flour ; 
see that the oven is hot, and butter a dripping-pan ; sift to- 
gether one quart of flour and two teaspoonfuls each of salt 
and baking-powder ; rub a quarter of a pound of butter into 
the flour in rather large flakes ; then put in the berries, and 
quickly stir in enough milk to form a soft dough ; drop the 
dough on the buttered pan with a tablespoon wet in cold 
milk, and put the biscuit at once into the oven ; bake from 
fifteen to twenty-five minutes, until the biscuit are done. 
Serve the biscuit hot, with plenty of butter. 

SOUR-CREAM BISCUIT. 

Sift together a quart of flour, a level teaspoonful of salt 
and two of baking-soda ; butter or flour a pan, and see that 
the oven is hot ; then quickly mix with the flour a cupful 
each of buttermilk and sour cream ; shape the biscuit 
quickly, and bake them at once in a hot oven. 

Sour milk may be used instead of the cream. 

SHORTCAKES. 

Make the dough for the shortcakes as directed for bak- 
ing-powder biscuit, using milk instead of water for mixing 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 495 

the dough, if it is preferred. When the dough is mixed, 
bake it on two buttered tin plates. Have ready wliatever 
fruit, fresh or canned, is to be used for the shortcakes, and 
some powdered sugar ; spht the shortcakes, butter them, 
lay the fruit upon the inner side, and then lay the two sides 
of each cake one upon the other, and serve the shortcakes. 
If the fruit is acid, use the powdered sugar liberally. Fresh 
or canned berries, peaches, pears, apricots, or plums make 
good shortcakes ; when canned fruit is used, its sirup can 
be sweetened for a sauce, or the shortcakes can be served 
with cream. 

RAISED SHORTCAKE. 

Put in a large earthen bowl three cupfuls of light bread- 
dough, made as directed in either of the recipes for home- 
made bread ; add to the dough three raw eggs beaten for 
two minutes, with three tablespoonfuls of sugar and three 
tablespoonfuls of butter softened with a gentle heat before 
mixing them with the eggs and sugar; knead all of these 
ingredients together with the hand until the dough is soft 
and smooth ; then put it into buttered baking-pans, cover 
the pans with a folded towel, and set them near the stove 
where a gentle heat will strike them, to rise for fifteen min- 
utes ; then bake the shortcakes in a moderate oven until a 
sharp small knife or fork thrust into the shortcakes does 
not show any sign of moisture. When the shortcakes are 
baked, tear them open, first breaking the edges apart with a 
fork, butter them, put fruit or preserves over them, with 
sugar to taste, and serve them either hot or cold. 

EGG CORN-BREAD. 

Chop a quarter of a pound of butter with one quart of 
Indian meal, add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, and the 
yolks of four eggs, and stir in gradually a quart of cold 
milk; beat the mixture until it forms a smooth batter; 



49^ PRACTICAL A M ERIC A. V COOKERY. 

butter the pan in whicli the bread is to be baked ; beat the 
whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the batter 
lightly and quickly, put it into the buttered pan, and bake 
the bread in a moderate oven for half an hour, or until a 
broom-straw run into the thickest part of the loaf can be 
withdrawn clean. The bread can be used either hot or 
cold. The same batter can be baked in smaller buttered 
pans or in buttered earthen cups. 

NEW-ENGLAND CORN-BREAD. 

Sift together one cupful of Indian meal, half a cupful 
of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and three teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder ; mix with these ingredients half a cupful 
each of butter and flour beaten to a cream, four eggs beaten 
for two minutes, and one pint of milk ; put the bread into an 
iron pan well buttered, and bake it for about twenty minutes, 
or until it is nicely browned ; then serve it hot at once. 

NEW-ENGLAND BROWN-BREAD. 

Sift together two cupfuls each of rye and Indian meal ; 
add a teaspoonful of salt, two-thirds of a cupful each of 
molasses and boiled squash, and two teaspoonfuls of soda 
dissolved in a very little cold water ; last of all, mix in 
enough sour milk to make a batter thin enough to pour ; 
put the batter into a buttered tin pan or mould, and steam 
it for three hours ; then bake it for two hours longer. 

GRAHAM AND INDIAN BREAD. 

Sift together one pint each of Indian meal and Graham 
flour, and a heaping teaspoonful of salt ; mix with them a 
pint of sour milk and a scant half-pint of molasses in which 
a heaping teaspoonful of saleratus is dissolved ; when all 
these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, pour them into a 
buttered brown-bread mould, or a buttered tin pail, which 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 497 

can be tightly covered, and steam the bread for two hours ; 
the mould or pail, closely covered, may be set in a covered 
saucepan containing enough boiling water to reach two- 
thirds up the sides of the tin, if a regular steamer is not 
available ; after the bread has been steamed for two hours, 
remove the cover from the mould, and bake tlie bread in a 
hot oven until a crust is formed ; use it either hot or cold. 

RAISED GRAHAM BREAD. 

Sift together one pint of wheat flour, one quart of Graham 
flour, and two tablespoonfuls of salt ; add to them half a 
cupful each of molasses and liquid yeast, or an ounce of 
compressed yeast dissolved in half a cupful of warm water ; 
then stir in enough warm water or milk to make a batter 
thick enough to hold a drop let fall from the mixing-spoon, 
and cover the bowl containing this sponge with a folded 
towel, keeping it in a moderately warm place until it is 
light and foaming ; when the sponge is quite light, stir in as 
much more Graham flour as can be readily mixed in with a 
spoon, and put the dough into well-buttered baking-pans ; 
cover the pans with a folded towel, put them where the 
dough will be kept warm, — in some place not too hot to 
rest the hand for a minute without burning it, — and let 
them stand until the dough has risen to double its original 
volume ; then put the bread into a moderate oven, and bake 
it for an hour and a half, taking care that it does not burn. 

RAISED SWEET-POTATO BREAD. 

Boil, peel, and mash sweet potatoes enough to yield a 
quart of pulp after they are mashed ; to a quart of mashed 
sweet potatoes add a pint of milk in which has been dis- 
solved half an ounce of compressed yeast, and two tea- 
spoonfuls each of salt and sugar, together with a pint of 
boiling water, and just enough flour to make a thick batter ; 



498 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

put this batter in a warm place near the fire to rise until it 
is double, its first quantity, keeping it covered with a thick 
towel folded several times. When the batter has risen to 
twice its original bulk, mix with it enough more flour to 
make a soft dough ; knead it for five minutes, then put it 
into three buttered iron pans, filling each half full, and 
again cover it, and let it rise to double its size ; then bake 
the loaves in a moderate oven until they are quite done. 
Use the bread hot or cold. 

SWEET-POTATO PONE. 

Peel and grate sweet potatoes enough to fill a quart bowl, 
working very quickly, so that they may not become dis- 
colored ; mix with the grated potato half a pint of sweet 
milk, three tablespoonfuls of powdered ginger, and half a 
pound of butter beaten to a cream with half a pound of 
sugar ; if oranges are in season, add the 'grated rind and 
juice of one ; pour the batter thus made into a buttered 
pan, and bake the pone in a moderate oven for about an 
hour, or until the potato is quite done. 

WHEAT MUFFINS. 

Butter a dozen earthen cups, and arrange them in a drip- 
ping-pan. Mix to a smooth batter two cupfuls of flour and 
three of milk ; beat four eggs to a light froth ; then beat the 
eggs with the batter, and half fill the cups with it ; bake 
them at once in a very hot oven for about twenty minutes, 
or until they are nicely browned all over. Serve the muffins 
hot. 

RAISED MUFFINS. 

For one quart of flour use half a gill of liquid yeast, or 
half a small cake of compressed yeast dissolved in half a 
cupful of lukewarm water ; mix with the flour a teaspoonful 
of salt, the yeast, and cold water enough to make a soft 
dough ; mix the water, yeast, and flour with the hands ; and 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 499 

when the dough is as soft as it can be handled, cover the 
bow! containing it with a folded towel, set it in a moderately 
warm room, and let it rise over night. The next morning 
heat a griddle moderately hot, — that is, just hot enough to 
color dry flour, which must be sifted on it ; then beat the 
white of an egg to a stiff froth, beat it with the dough, and 
at once bake the muffins on the floured griddle in large tin 
rings, slightly buttered. These muffins are used hot for 
breakfast, or toasted on the outside for supper. 

RYE MUFFINS. 

Sift together one pint of rye meal, one pint of flour, one 
teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
one tablespoonful of sugar ; melt one tablespoonful of butter, 
and add it to these ingredients ; next beat two eggs for two 
minutes, and add them, together with a scant pint of milk, 
using just enough milk to make a batter stiff enough to hold 
a drop from the mixing-spoon. Put the batter into but- 
tered muffin-rings' set in a buttered baking-pan, and bake 
them in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes, or until they 
are well done. 

POP-OVERS. 

Mix to a smooth batter two cups each of flour and milk, 
two raw yolks of egg, and a level teaspoonful of salt ; butter 
six earthen cups, and place them in a pan in the oven to 
heat ; see that the oven is hot ; last of all, beat the whites 
of two eggs to a stiff froth, mix them quickly with the other 
ingredients, put the batter at once into the hot buttered cups, 
set them in a hot oven, and bake the pop-overs until they 
rise well, and are brown at the sides where they part from 
the cups. • Serve the pop-overs as soon as they are baked. 
By using maple-sirup, or a good sweet sauce, the pop-overs 
may be served at the dessert. As a breakfast-dish they are 
eaten with butter. 



500 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

EGG-PUFFS. 
Soften a tablespoonful of butter to a creamy consistency 
by working it witli a fork ; beat three eggs to a froth, and add 
them to the butter ; add also a level teaspoonful of salt, and 
six tablespoonfuls of flour ; beat all these ingredients to- 
gether until they foam, then put them into buttered earthen 
cups or small tin pans, arfd bake them in a hot oven for 
about half an hour, or until they are cooked through and 
nicely browned. Serve them hot for breakfast or luncheon. 

RAISED WAFFLES. 

At night mix together one pint of lukewarm milk, in which 
two tablespoonfuls of butter have been melted, two table- 
spoonfuls of liquid yeast, or half a small cake of compressed 
yeast dissolved in a gill of water, two eggs well beaten, a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a pound of flour ; when this batter 
is thoroughly mixed, cover it, and keep it over night in a 
warm place ; in the morning heat a waffle-iron, butter it, put 
in the batter without stirring it down, and then bake the 
waffles ; serve them with butter and powdered sugar. 

SWEET-POTATO WAFFLES. f 

Mix to a smooth batter half a cupful of sweet potato 
boiled and mashed, four tablespoonfuls of flour, one each of 
butter and sugar, one saltspoonful of salt, and a pint of milk ; 
bake the batter at once in a hot waffle-iron. Or, if no iron 
is available, the batter may be baked on a griddle, in the 
form of cakes. 

CORN WAFFLES. 

Put in an earthen bowl a cupful and a half of corn-meal, 
a teaspoonful of salt, a dessertspoonful each of* lard and 
butter, and pour in a pint of boiling milk ; beat this mixture 
smooth, let it cool until lukewarm, then add two eggs well 
beaten, and bake the waffles at once in a hot buttered iron. 



SECOND-CO L'KSL SWEETS. 501 



RICE WAFFLES. 

Mix one pint of soft-boiled rice with one pint of milk over 
the fire, stirring them until they are hot ; then take them 
from the fire, beat the yolks of four eggs smoothly with a 
pint of cold milk, and add them to" the rice, together with 
a teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient flour to make a batter 
just stiff enough to hold for an instant a drop from the mix- 
ing-spoon. Then beat four whites to a stiff froth, stir them 
lightly into the batter, and bake it at once in a hot buttered 
waffle-iron. Serve the waffles hot, with powdered sugar 
dusted over them. 

RAISED RICE WAFFLES. 

Following the method given in the recipe for raised waffles, 
mix the following named ingredients at night, and bake in 
the morning : One pint each of boiled rice and flour, two 
beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls bf yeast or half a small cake 
of compressed yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and two table- 
spoonfuls of butter melted in a pint of warm milk. 

RICE PANCAKES. 

Have ready a pint of rice, boiled quite soft ; sift together 
a pint of flour, and one teaspoonful each of baking-powder 
and salt ; beat three eggs, and mix them with a pint of milk ; 
before putting these ingredients together, see that the griddle 
is hot ; then mix the pancakes, and begin to bake them at 
once ; if the first ones seem too stiff, add a litde more milk 
to the pancake batter; serve the pancakes hot, as fast as 
they are baked. 

FRIED RICE. 

Boil the rice as directed in the recipe for boiled rice, and 
cool it in a dish ; when it is cold turn it from the dish, cut it 
in slices nearly an inch thick, season the slices with pepper 



502 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

and salt, and roll them in Indian meal ; have ready a frying- 
kettle half full of smoking-hot fat, and fry the slices of rice 
in it until they are golden brown ; when the rice is done, 
take it from the fat witli a skinimer, put it on brown paper 
for a moment to free it from grease, and then serve it hot. 

FRIED BREAD. . 

Have ready over the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat ; 
cut slices of bread about half an inch thick in squares, tri- 
angles, or heart-shaped pieces, and when tlie fat is smoking 
hot put in the bread and fry it golden brown ; take it from 
the fat with a skimmer when it is brown, lay it on brown 
paper to free it from grease,' and then use it for garnishing. 

Fry small dice of bread in this way to serve in soups. 

FRITTER BATTER. 

To make a batter which can be used for any fritters, put a 
cupful of flour into a bowl w^th the yolk of a raw egg, a level 
teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of good olive-oil ; 
mix these ingredients smoothly together, then gradually stir 
in enough water to make a batter thick enough to hold a 
drop let fall from the mixing-spoon ; beat the white of the 
egg to a stiff froth, mix it lightly with tlie batter. 

ORANGE FRITTERS. 

Peel and slice two or three oranges about a quarter of an 
inch thick, and remove the seeds, taking care not to break 
the slices or squeeze out the juice ; put a frying-kettle over 
the fire, with enough fat to half fill it, and let the fat get 
smoking hot. 

Put two or three slices of oranges in the batter, and when 
the fat begins to smoke lift them from the batter with a fork, 
drop them into the hot fat, and fry them golden brown ; 
take the fritters out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them for a 



SECOXn-COUA'S/< SWF.ETS. 503 

moment on brown paper to free them from grease, and then 
dust them with powdered sugar, and serve them hot. 

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 

Pare and grate a ripe pineaj^ple, saving all the juice ; put 
with the grated fruit and juice two cupfuls of flour, the yolk 
of a raw egg, a saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of melted 
butter, and sufficient cold water to make a batter thick 
enough to sustain a drop from the mixing-spoon for a 
moment upon its surface. Have ready o\'er the fire a frying- 
kettle half full of fat, and when it begins to smoke quickly 
beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth, stir it into the bat- 
ter, drop the batter by the tablespoonful into the hot fat, and 
fry the fritters until they are golden brown ; then take them 
from the hot fet with a skimmer, and lay them for a moment 
on brown paper to free them from grease ; then arrange them 
neatly on a china dish, dust them with powdered sugar, and 
serve them. 

If the pineapple-fritters are prepared large, the fruit may 
be sliced thin, dipped in a batter made as directed above, 
and then fried and served in the same way. 

Preserved pineapple may be used for fritters and tarts. 

OLD-FASHIONED DOUGHNUTS. 

Beat three eggs in a large bowl for five minutes ; stir into 
them one cupful of granulated sugar, one level teaspoonful 
of salt, one pint of sweet milk, and one-third of a nutmeg 
grated ; sift together three times two cupfuls of flour and 
one level teaspoonful each of cream of tartar and saleratus ; 
stir the flour quickly into the ingredients already mixed in 
the bowl. Just flour enough is required to make a dough 
only stiff enough to handle. If moi£ than two cupfuls are 
needed, stir it into the dough, but remember to make it only 
stiff enough to roll out. Handle the dough very quickly and 



504 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

lightly, and as little as possible. As soon as it is mixed, turn 
it from the bowl on a floured pastry-board ; dust a little flour 
over it ; roll it out half an inch thick ; cut it in rounds with 
a biscuit-cutter, or a thin cup or glass dipped in flour, and 
cut a small ball from the middle of each round with a small 
tin cutter or the top of a pepper-box dipped in flour. Have 
ready a frying-kettle half full of smoking-hot fat ; put into 
it as many doughnuts as will float without pressing against 
each other, and fry them light brown ; take them out of the 
fat with a skimmer, letting the fat drain from them. When 
all are fried, roll them in powdered sugar, and use them either 
hot or cold. 

NEW-ENGLAND FRIED-CAKES. 

In the morning, when home-made bread is being made, 
put about a pint bowlful of the light bread-dough on a 
floured pastry-board, and roll it out half an inch thick ; use 
a sharp knife, dipped in flour, to cut it in rather long 
diamond-shaped pieces ; throw a towel over the pieces, and 
let them stand near the stove to rise while the frying-kettle, 
half full of fat, is being heated. When the. fat smokes,-fry 
the bread-cakes as directed in the recipe for old-fashioned 
doughnuts, and serve them with sirup or molasses for break- 
fast. 

WHORTLEBERRY FRIED- CAKES. 

Sift a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder and a salt- 
spoonful of salt with two cupfuls of flour. Carefully pick 
over one quart of whortleberries. Beat three eggs for five 
minutes ; stir into the beaten eggs two cupfuls of sugar and 
one pint of milk ; then add the berries and the flour, mixing 
all the ingredients lightly and quickly. The mixture should 
form a stiff" batter ; if more flour is needed, add it. Fry the 
cakes by the tablcspoonful in smoking-hot fat, as directed in 
the recipe for old-fashioned doughnuts ,; or fry them in a 



SE COND-CO URSE S WEE TS. 



505 



hot frying-pan, with just enough fat to prevent sticking to 
the pan. Use them buttered for tea or luncheon. 

CRULLERS WITH EGGS. 

Beat a quarter of a pound each of butter and sugar to a 
cream ; mix with them the beaten yolks of three eggs ; then 
quickly beat in twelve ounces, or three-quarters of a pound, 
of flour, a saltspoonful each of powdered cinnamon and 




Pastry-Wheel. 



grated nutmeg, and enough cold milk to form a stiff paste ; 
last, beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, stir them 
quickly and lightly into the cruller paste, roll it out half an 
inch thick, and then cut out the crullers with the wheel 



5o6 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



shown in the first engraving, making the crullers in different 
shapes, of which a number are given in the second picture. 





Cnillers Cut with Pastry Wheel. 

After the crullers are cut out, put them into plenty of smok- 
ing-hot fat to fry brown, as directed in the recipes for dough- 
nuts. Use them either hot or cold. 

CRULLERS WITH BAKING-POWDER. 

Sift together one quart of flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls 
of any good baking-powder, a level teaspoon ful of salt, and 
a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg ; beat a tablespoonful of 
butter and a cupful of sugar to a cream ; add to them one 
egg, and then quickly stir in the flour, and enough cold milk 
to make a paste stiff enough to roll out ; cut the crullers in 
any shape preferred, and fry them in plenty of smoking-hot 
fat, as directed in the recipe for doughnuts ; after they are 
fried, sift a little sugar over them. 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 507 

PAN-BOBIfLES. 

Sift together three cupfuls each of rye and Indian meal, 
a teaspoonful of salt, and a level saltspoonful of powdered 
allspice ; stir into the meal after it is sifted one egg, three 
tablespoonfuls of molasses, and enough cold milk to make a 
soft dough which will drop easily from the mixing-spoon ; 
do not use enough milk to make a batter, for that would not 
keep the shape in frying; have ready a frying-kettle half full 
of smoking-hot fat, and put the dough into the fat by the 
tablespoonful. Let the pan-doddles fry brown, like dough- 
nuts, then take them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them 
on brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and 
serve them hot for breakfast or supper. 

INDIAN SLAP-JACKS. 

Pour over a pint of Indian meal enough hot milk to 
moisten it, and let it stand until it is cool ; then add a level 
teaspoonful of salt, two eggs beaten to a froth, and sufficient 
cold milk to make a batter thick enough to keep its form 
on the griddle or frying-pan used for frying the slap-jacks ; 
newly-fallen snow may be substituted for eggs, a tablespoon- 
ful for an egg ; or in camp, where neither milk nor eggs are 
available, the same process may be followed by using water, 
and beating the batter steadily until enough air is beaten 
into it to make it foamy ; it must be baked directly, or the 
air will escape, and the slap-jacks will be heavy. A well-kept 
soap-stone griddle does not need to be greased, but an ordi- 
nary pan does ; use either butter, lard, or a piece of raw fat 
salt pork, to grease the pan ; be careful that it is not hot 
enough to burn the cakes ; put the batter on the pan by the 
large spoonful, and when the upper part of the slap-jack is 
full of holes and the under part brown, turn it ; use with the 
slap-jacks sugar, molasses, butter, or salt-pork drippings. 



508 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



ARMY SLAP-JACKS. 

Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of salt in a pint of cold water ; 
mix the water smoothly with a tablespoonful of flour, and 
beat the mixture until it foams ; then mix into it enough 
flour to make a rather thin batter, like that prepared for 
buckwheat cakes. Fry the slap-jacks in a hot frying-pan, 
rubbed with a piece of raw fat salt pork or with a small 
piece of butter tied in a bit of clean cloth. If the frying- 
pan is not smooth, the cakes will stick to it ; therefore clean 
it by washing and wiping it thoroughly, and then rubbing it 
hard with dry salt. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Sift together a quart of buckwheat flour, a teaspoonful of 
salt and two of baking-powder ; mix in enough milk or cold 
water to form a thick batter, and bake the cakes on a hot 
griddle as directed in the recipe for Indian slap-jacks. 

RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Mix the following ingredients to a smooth batter at night : 
one quart of buckwheat flour, one gill each of liquid yeast 
and molasses, a teaspoonful of salt, and enough lukewarm 
water to make a thick batter ; put the batter into an earthen 
jar or pitcher, cover it with a folded towel, and let it stand 
in a warm place over night ; the next morning, fry the cakes 
as directed in the recipe for Indian slap-jacks. If the bat- 
ter is at all sour, stir into it a saltspoonful of baking-soda 
dissolved in a little warm water before cooking the cakes. 

INDIAN GRIDDLE- CAKES. 

Sift together one quart of yellow Indian meal, two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of flour, and one teaspoonful of salt ; melt 
two tablespoonfuls of butter in a pint and a half of milk 



SECOA'D-COUA'SE SIVEETS. ' 509 

over the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted stir in 
the meal gradually ; after the meal has been stirred into the 
milk, let the mixture cool ; when this batter is cold, beat four 
eggs to a froth, and then beat them into the batter, which 
should then be about the consistency of buckwheat-cake 
batter ; have ready on the fire a hot griddle, slightly buttered 
or greased with fat salt pork, to prevent burning, and fry the 
cakes quickly; serve them hot, with butter and honey or 
molasses. 

SPIDER-CAKE. 

Sift a quart of flour with a teaspoonful each of salt and 
baking-soda, and two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar ; or, 
in place of the soda and cream of tartar, use two heaping 
teaspoonfuls of any good baking-powder; chop a quarter 
of a pound of good butter into the flour, and then quickly 
make it into a dough stiff enough to mould with about a 
pint of milk or cold water ; if sour milk is used, the baking- 
powder or cream of tartar should be omitted, and a heaping 
teaspoonful of baking-soda dissolved in the sour milk ; have 
ready two old-fashioned iron spiders, or a large griddle, well 
buttered and placed over the fire ; make the dough into two 
round cakes, put it in the buttered pans, and slowly brown 
the under side over a moderate fire ; the spider-cake must 
be frequently lifted from the pan with a cake-turner or a 
broad-bladed knife to prevent burning, and butter enough 
must be used to keep it from sticking to the pan ; when the 
under side is browned, turn the cake, and brown the other 
side ; when the cake is done, spUt it, butter it, lay it together 
again, cut it in quarters, and serve it hot. 

HUCKLEBERRY SPIDER- CAKE. 

Pick over a quart of huckleberries, wash them in cold 
water, drain them quite dry, and dust them with flour ; sift 
together one pound of flour, one teaspoonful of salt and 



5IO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

two of baking-powder ; into the flour chop a quarter of a 
pound of butter, and add the berries ; see that the fire is 
good, and put an iron spider over it, with a tablespoonful 
of butter in it ; next mix the flour and berries to a soft 
dough, with just enough sweet milk to form it ; put the 
dough into the spider, making the cake about three-quarters 
of an inch thick, and set over a moderate fire to bake ; 
unless the spider is large, a second one must be used, in 
order to have the cake the proper thickness ; bake the 
spider-cake slowly for about ten minutes on each side, shak- 
ing it about in the pan, and turning it, to prevent burning ; 
before serving it, try it to be sure it is done, and then serve 
it hot with plenty of butter. 

SPIDER- CAKE TOAST. 

Toast cold spider-cake delicately brown ; while the cake 
is being toasted, make a sauce as follows : For each cake 
allow a full pint of sauce ; for each pint of sauce mix to- 
gether over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and flour 
until they bubble ; then mix smoothly into them a pint of 
milk and half a pint of cream ; let this sauce boil for a 
moment, season it palatably with salt, and then pour it over 
the toasted spider-cake, and serve it at once. 

BUTTER TOAST. 

Allow a tablespoonful of butter for each slice of bread ; 
melt the butter by very gentle heat ; toast the bread to an 
even light-brown color, lay it in a chafing-dish, or in a thin 
china dish set in a larger dish containing hot water, and 
pour the melted butter over it. Serve it hot as soon as it 
is made. 

MILK TOAST. 

Toast slices of stale bread to a delicate brown color; 
meantime heat to the boiling-point sufficient milk to satu- 



SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 511 

rate the toast, adding two tablespoon fuls of butter to each 
pint of milk ; when the milk boils, pour it over the toast, and 
serve it hot at once. 

The boiling milk is sometimes thickened with a little flour 
or corn-starch. 

WATER TOAST. 

Make a dozen slices of toast ; have ready about three 
tablespoonfuls of butter slightly warmed, and a dish of hot 
water ; dip the slices of toast quickly into the hot water, 
letting them remain in it only until they are moist ; lift them 
out with a skimmer, draining off all superfluous water, lay 
them on a hot dish, buttering each slice, and as soon as all 
are dipped serve the toast hot. 



CHAPTER X. 

DESSERT (Dessert). 

THE dessert proper consists of small cold sweets, frozen 
puddings either in moulds or paper cases, nuts, confec- 
tionery, black coffee, and candied fruits. Preserves, candied 
fruits, and jellies are included in this chapter, because they 
so often enter into the composition of dessert dishes. Many 
of the frozen puddings can be prepared at home, and the 
ices and creams also, if there is the proper freezing apparatus. 
The forms illustrated are French, but any American substi- 
tute will serve. The directions for making ices and creams 
were first published about two years ago, in one of the 
author's household series then appearing. They are good 
enough to give permanency to here, for by following them 
any careful person can produce at home some of the most 
elaborate of the confectioners' sweets : the forms only will 
differ, because confectioners have many very pretty individual 
moulds that are not found in ordinary householdsr The 
preparation of these novelties at home should always be 
undertaken in ample time, so that at dinner-time there shall 
be no difficulties to overcome at the last moments. 

CREAM MERINGUES. 

Have ready a large, thick board, which will go into the 
oven, covered with glazed letter-paper ; beat the whites of 
six eggs to a stiff froth, and gendy mix with them half a 
512 



DESSERi: 513 

pound of pulverized sugar, taking care not to break down 
the eggs ; work very quickly and lightly, and as soon as the 
sugar is incorporated with the egg, heap the meringue so 
made upon the paper, either in two large mounds or in an 
even number of small ones, and push the board containing 
them into a very slow oven, where the meringues will dry 
out rather than bake ; if the oven is too hot, leave the door 
open, and change the board frequently, so that the heat will 
strike its contents evenly. When the meringues are light- 
brown, cool them a little, take them off the paper, turn 
them over on the hand, and, without breaking them, take 
out the soft centre, and press the rest back upon the outside 
with the bowl of a spoon to form a hollow shell ; dust the 
inside with powdered sugar ; lay the shells, bottom upward, 
on clean paper on the board, and place them in a cool oven 
to dry out. Meantime, either prepare whipped cream to 
fill them, or make an Italian cream as follows : — 

ITALIAN CREAM. 

Dissolve an ounce and a half of isinglass over the fire in 
a gill of hot water, and keep it hot enough to remain hquid ; 
prepare a pint of whipped cream according to the directions 
given in the proper recipe ; put in a thick saucepan over the 
fire a pint of cream, the yolks of eight raw eggs, a quarter 
of a pound of macaroons, half a pound of powdered sugar, 
and a wineglassful of cura(oa ; stir these ingredients con- 
stantly until they begin to thicken ; then take them off the 
fire, and beat in the dissolved isinglass ; while the cream is 
still licpid enough to run through a wire sieve, strain it ; 
after straining it, very gently m.ix in the pint of whipped 
cream ; reserve enough of the Italian cream to fill the 
meri?igues with, and pour the rest into a mould to be cooled 
and iced ; serve the cold Italian cream with a border of 
whipped cream. 



SH 



PRACTICAL A xM ERIC AN COOKERY. 



CANNELONS WITH CREAM. 

Cut puff-paste in strips about an inch wide, and roll it 
around a floured stick, as shown in the first picture of the 




Uncooked Cannelons. 



cannelons ; several are so formed, and then baked upon the 
sticks ; after the cannelons are a little cool, the sticks can 
be slipped out, and the centres filled with whipped cream. 




Cannelons with Jelly. 



for which a recipe is given elsewhere ; or any preserve or 
jelly can be used to fill them. They are served upon a 
folded napkin, as shown in the second cut. 



BAVARIAN CREAM. 

This cream is serx^ed cold in a form, or sometimes re- 
places whipped cream in a charlotte-russe. To make it, put 
a quarter of an ounce of gelatine over the fire with a gill 



DESSER T. 515 

of hot water, and stir the gelatine until it is dissolved, when 
it may be set near enough to the fire to keep it liquid ; whip 
the white of one ^gg to a stiff froth, and gradually pour the 
liquid gelatine into it, whipping it until it begins to set; 
then cool it for five minutes ; whip it again, and stir into it 
four ounces of pulverized sugar, five drops of lemon and ten 
of vanilla essence, and a tablespoonful of brandy ; mean- 
time, prepare a pint of whipped cream as directed in the 
proper recipe ; when the whipped cream is ready, beat the 
yolk of one raw egg for one minute, and then beat it into 
the prepared gelatine ; last of all, add the pint of whipped 
cream, stirring it in very gently and thoroughly, and use the 
cream to fill a charlotte-mould lined with sponge-cake or 
lady-fingers. The Bavarian cream is sometimes cooled in 
a mould, and turned out on a base of whipped cream. 

CALF'S-FOOT JELLY. 

As the following recipe is very explicit, and has been re- 
peatedly tested, the fact that it has been published several 
times does not make it seem necessary to change it in any 
way. 

Thoroughly wash four calf 's-feet in plenty of cold water, 
trimming off all defective portions, and carefully removing 
all the hairs ; put them over the fire in a thick saucepan 
with two gallons of cold water, one heaping teaspoonful of 
salt, a dozen whole cloves, an inch of stick-cinnamon, and 
the yellow rind of one lemon cut very thin ; place the sauce- 
pan where its contents will boil very slowly ; remove all 
scum as it rises, and continue the boiling until there are only 
about two quarts of the broth remaining in the saucepan ; 
by this time the calf 's-feet will have become almost gelatin- 
ous from the prolonged boiling, and the broth will be in 
good condition to make the jelly ; strain the brotli, and cool 
it, in order to remove the fat. After the broth from the 



5l6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

calf 's-feet is quite cold, it will present the appearance of a 
cloudy, whitish, opaque jelly ; it must then be clarified and 
flavored as follows : For two quarts of the unclarified jelly, 
put into a thick saucepan the whites and shells of four 
eggs, two tablespoonfuls of cold water, and the yellow rinds 
of two lemons cut very thin ; mix these ingredients for a 
moment, breaking the egg-shells ; then add one pound of 
white sugar, and the cold jellied broth ; place the saucepan 
over the fire, and occasionally stir its contents until they 
begin to boil ; then place it where the jelly will boil gently 
until it looks as clear as wine under the scum of egg which 
rises to the surface ; put in a large bowl a quart of good 
sherry and the strained juice of four lemons ; set a colander 
over the bowl, wet a clean towel in hot v/ater, fold it double, 
and lay it in the colander ; pour the boiling jelly into the 
towel, and let it strain through without stirring the egg or 
disturbing the folded towel in any way ; do not squeeze the 
towel, or try to hasten the straining, because that might allow 
some of the particles of egg to escape into the jelly, thus 
clouding it ; a flannel jelly-bag may be used for the strain- 
ing if one is at hand ; after the jelly is strained, it can be 
cooled in cups, moulds, or glass jars, and kept in a cool place 
until wanted for use. 

MABIIIRA JELLY. 

Make some good calf s- foot jelly very thick ; after clari- 
fying it, as directed in the recipe for clarifying stock and 
jelly, dissolve in a quart of the jelly, while it is warm, half 
an ounce of isinglass ; add to it half a pint of good madeira, 
a glass of brandy, and enough sugar to sweeten the jelly 
acceptably ; then cool it in moulds, and serve it cold. 

NOYEAU JELLY. 

Put an ounce of the best isinglass into half a pint of luke- 
warm water, and stir it over the fire until it is dissolved ; 



DESSERT. 



517 



meantime put over the fire a pound of loaf-sugar, the juice 
of half a lemon, and half a pint of cold water, and boil 
them without stirring until they form a thick sirup ; mix 
with the dissolved isinglass the sirup and a wineglass of 
noyeau cordial or liqueur ; and then strain the jelly into a 
mould wet in cold water, and allow the jelly to harden before 
turning it out of the mould. 



ORANGES WITH JELLY. 

Cut from sound oranges a small circular piece from the 
stem end, as shown in the accompanying engraving, and 
scoop out the pulp of the fruit ; or cut the rind in the form 
of a basket ; wash the peels in cold water, put them over 
the fire in boiling water with a little sugar, and boil them 




Oranges filled with Jelly. 



for five minutes ; then cool them, and fill them with Florida- 
orange jelly, or with any jelly, slightly softened by heat ; 
after the orange-rinds are filled with jelly, it must be allowed 
to harden ; the entire rind containing the jelly can then be 
cut in quarters, as shown in the engraving, or served whole. 
The effect is very pretty. 

CHARTREUSE OF CAN' .3D ORANGES. 

Peel and quarter oranges enough to line the bottom and 
sides of a round tin jelly-mould ; lay the quarters upon a sieve, 
and place them on the shelf over the stove, or on the oven- 



5l8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

door, where the white membrane which encloses the pulp 
will become quite dry ; this membrane must be entirely un- 
broken, so that no juice can escape. While the oranges are 
drying, put over the fire in a sugar-boiler half a pound of 
loaf-sugar, a gill of water, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 
and boil the sugar until it cracks off sharp when cooled in 
ice-water ; after large bubbles begin to show on the top of 
the boiling sugar, it must be tested frequently to see if it is 
boiled crisp enough. When the sugar is done, pour some 
sweet salad-oil in a round tin mould, run it all over the in- 
side of the mould, and then pour it out ; dip the quarters of 
orange in the hot sugar, one by one, and then entirely line 
the bottom and sides of the oiled mould with them, over- 
lapping the quarters a little ; the sugar will hold them to- 
gether, and the oil will prevent adhesion to the mould ; after 
the orange-quarters have cooled in the mould, they will turn 
out and retain its shape ; this forms a chartreuse, which may 
be filled, just before serving, with any fresh berries, or small 
fresh fruits, or even with iced creams or jeUies. 

SPINNING SUGAR. 

Spiui sugar is used to ornament large candied pieces of 
fruit' and nuts, or nougat ; for instance, the preceding piece, 
the chartreuse of oranges, might be covered with spun sugar 
after it is taken from the mould ; or a pyramid formed of 
macaroons, cemented with white of egg ; or any large orna- 
mental combination piece built up of candied nuts, fruit, 
and macaroons ; or such a stand of candy as is shown upon 
the table in the background of the accompanying engraving. 
The sirup is boiled to the degree called " the crack," and 
then a very little of it is poured from a spoon moved back 
and forth over an oiled knife held as shown in the engraving. 
The motion must be quick and steady ; the spun sugar may 
be made in the long sections shown in the picture, or in 




Making Spun Sugar. 



5'9 



520 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

shorter lengths ; or it may be spun directly over the piece to 
be ornamented. 

DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR. 

The degrees of boiling sugar for confectioners' purposes 
are seven : ia lisse, or thread, small and large ; ia perle, or 
pearl, small and large ; Ic souffle, or blow ; la plume, or 
feather ; le boulet, or ball, small and large ; la casse, or crack ; 
and le caramel, or the point of burning. 

The hand is used in testing, first dipping the fingers in 
cold water, and then quickly into the boiling sugar : sugar 
is also boiled by degrees marked on the saccharometer, an 
instrument which registers the density of sirup ; the hand- 
test is given here. 

THE THREAD. 

After the sugar has been boiling a few moments, wet the 
forefinger, dip it into the sirup, and quickly withdraw it, 
press it upon the thumb, and then pull it away ; the small 
thread is when the sugar breaks after the thumb and finger 
have been separated to a short distance ; the large thread, 
when they can be stretched farther apart without breaking 
the sugar. 

THE PEARL. 

The pearl is when the sugar reaches without breaking if 
the fingers are extended nearly as far as possible ; the large 
pearl, when the thread of sugar remains intact after the 
fingers are stretched to their widest extent. 

THE BLOW. 

At this degree of boiling, small bubbles may be formed 
by dipping a skimmer in the sugar, and then blowing through 
the holes ; the bubbles fly apart, and sparkle on the reverse 
of the skimmer. 



DESSERT. 521 



THE FEATHER. 

m 

When this point is reached, the bubbles formed by blow- 
ing the sugar through the skimmer are larger ; and if the 
skimmer is shaken, fine threads of sugar Uke floss fly off 
from it. 

THE BALL. 

At "the ball," a little of the sugar can be rolled to a very 
soft ball between the wet fingers. The next degree is the 
larger and harder ball of sugar, which can be bitten with- 
out sticking to the teeth. 

The sugar should now be tested constantly. 

THE CRACK. 

As this degree of boiling approaches, large purling bub- 
bles form upon the surface of the boiling sugar, and it is 
very near the point for making spun sugar and candied nuts 
and fruit. Wet the hand, and dip it into the boiling sugar, 
and then again into the cold water ; if the sugar hardens at 
once, and breaks with a crackling noise between the fingers 
or the teeth, the proper point has been reached, and the 
sugar must at once be taken from the fire, because there is 
great danger that it will pass beyond the point of caramel. 

CARAMEL. 

Caramel is the point at which sugar begins to burn. It 
becomes tinged with yellow, and then quickly browns, and 
begins to smoke ; to check the boiling, set the sugar-boiler 
into a pan of cold water for a moment, and then use the sugar. 

TO PREVENT GRANULATION IN BOILING SUGAR. 

As the sugar boils, repeatedly wipe the sides of the boiler, 
where the sugar bubbles against it, with a cloth wet in cold 
water ; and add five or six drops of lemon-juice or vinegar, 



522 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

or dissolved citric acid or cream of tartar,' or salad-oil, or a 
very small bit of butter, or a teaspoonful of honey ; in short, 
any acid or fat, in very small quantity, to keep the sugar 
smooth ; and do not siir it while it is boiling. 

The fat or acid must be used in very small proportion, or 
the sugar will be spoiled ; above all, keep the sides of the 
sugar-boiler clean with the wet cloth. 

HOW TO REDUCE BOILING SUGAR A DEGREE. 

If sugar boils beyond the desired degree, reduce it by 
adding a few tablespoonfuls of water, and boil it again. If 
it has reached the point of burning, the consistency may be 
reduced, but the taste of burned sugar will remain. But the 
sugar should be too carefully watched and tested to allow 
burning. 

NOUGAT. 

Blanch a pound of almonds after they are shelled, by 
pouring boiling water over them, and then rubbing off the 
skins with a wet towel ; cut the blanched almonds in several 
pieces, and put them into a moderate oven, in a pan ; occa- 
sionally shake them, until they are very hot, but do not let 
them brown ; meantime put half a pound of fine white sugar 
over the fire, in a thick saucepan or sugar-boiler, with a tea- 
spoonful of lemon-juice, and stir it with a wooden spoon 
until the sugar is entirely melted and small bubbles begin to 
show on the surface ; then at once throw in the hot almonds, 
stir them gently through the sugar until they are mixed with 
it, and then pour out the nougat on an oiled slab or dish, 
flattening and smoothing it with half a lemon dipped in oil ; 
work quickly, because the nougat hardens fast. Pistache 
nuts are sometimes added to the almonds in making 
nougat. 

' A saltspoonful of cream of tartar is enough for a pound of sugar. 



DESSERT. 523 

FREEZING-TUB FOR FROZEN PUDDINGS. 
This engraving shows the mould containing the pudding 
which is to be frozen set in the tub of freezing-mixture, and 




Freezing-Tubs for Ices and Frozen Puddings. 

also the mould entirely covered with ice packed upon it ; 
over the ice a folded blanket or a piece of clean carpet is 
thrown, until the pudding is entirely frozen. 

FROZEN CABINET-PUDDING. 

Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a gill of hot water, 
and keep it warm enough to be liquid ; break into a sauce- 
pan the yolks of six raw eggs, add to them half a pound of 
white sugar, a quart of cream, and a teaspoonful of any pre- 
ferred flavoring ; cut in small pieces a quarter of a pound of 
citron, making as many slices as possible in the form of leaves ; 
use four ounces each of candied cherries, pineapple, and 
any other French fruit, cutting the last two in small dice ; 
with the citron-leaves and cherries make wreaths upon the 
bottom and sides of the inside of a three-pint plain tin mould 
which has a tight cover, filling each piece of fruit against 
the mould with a small bit of cold butter ; cut pieces of 



524 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

sponge-cake baked in thin sheets, to fit against the fruit on 
the inside of the mould, and line it with the cake ; a large 
loaf of sponge-cake can be sliced, for lining the mould ; after 
the mould is lined, fill it with alternate layers of cake and 
fruit until within half an inch of the top, and cut a slice of 
cake to fit over the top ; after the mould is filled, put the 
saucepan containing the custard over the fire, and stir it 
constantly until it begins to thicken ; then stir in the gelatine, 
and strain it into the mould containing the fruit and cake \ 
when it has cooled a little, put on the top slice of cake, and 
the cover of the mould, and close the mould by binding a strip 
of buttered cloth or thick paper around the joint of the 
cover ; pack the mould as directed for the second freezing of 
ices, in the proper recipe, and freeze the pudding for four 
hours ; turn it from the mould before serving it. 

Frozen cabinet pudding may be served with cold boiled 
custard, whipped cream, the rum-sauce given with the re- 
cipe for hot cabinet pudding, or with any good hard sauce. 

CONFECTIONERS' NESSELRODE PUDDING. 

This delicious ice can be prepared at home by attending 
closely to the following directions, or any good confectioner 
will make it to order. Boil fifty Italian chestnuts, remove 
the shells and skins, and either rub them through a sieve 
with a potato-masher, or pound them to a pulp in a mortar ; 
there should be about a pint and a half of chestnut pulp ; 
mix with it an equal quantity by measure of fine sugar, and 
a pint and a half of very thick cream whipped to a stiff 
froth, and freeze it like ice-cream ; meantime put over the 
fire a pound of sugar and a pint and a half of water, and 
let it boil ; while the sirup is heating, pick over four ounces 
of sultana or seedless raisins, and cut in small dice four 
ounces each of citron and candied pineapple, and when the 
sugar is melted put them into it, together with four ounces 



DESSERT. 525 

of candied cherries ; boil the fruit in the sirup for five min- 
utes, and then strain it out, saving the sirup ; after the fruit 
is put into the sirup, boil and peel twenty-five more chest- 
nuts ; when the chestnuts are done, return the sirup to the 
fire with a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and boil it until large 
bubbles form on the top ; then begin to test it by dropping 
a little into ice-water ; as soon as it is hard and crisp directly 
it touches the water, dip the nuts into it, and lay them on an 
oiled dish. The candied nuts are to be used as a garnish 
for the pudding after it is frozen. After the cream is frozen, 
mix the fruit with it, and pack it in a tight mould for the 
second freezing, or in paper cases, and freeze it the second 
time as directed in the recipes for freezing ices ; serve the 
candied nuts around it when it is sent to the table. 

FRANCATELLI'S NESSELRODE PUDDING. 

Make a pulp, ox puree, of three dozen large chestnuts, as 
directed in the preceding recipe ; put it into a thick sauce- 
pan with the yolks of eight eggs, a pint of cream, a small 
vanilla-bean powdered, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a pint 
of pineapple-sirup ; stir these ingredients over the fire until 
the eggs begin to thicken ; then take the cream from the 
fire, rub it through a fine sieve with a wooden spoon, cool 
it, and half freeze it as directed in the preceding recipe. 
While the pudding is being frozen, cut the following fruit in 
small pieces, and put it into a bowl with a gill of maraschino : 
a quarter of a pound each of seedless raisins, candied cher- 
ries, candied or preserved pineapple, and citron, and whip 
half a pint of cream. When the pudding is half frozen, mix 
the whipped cream and fruit with it, and finish freezing it as 
directed in the preceding recipe. 

COFFEE BOMBE. 

Put in a saucepan over the fire half a pound of roasted 
Mocha coffee-berries, and shake them until they are thor- 



526 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

oughly heated ; then pour over them a pint of cream, covet 
the saucepan, and let the cream and coffee remain hot, 
without boiling, for an hour; then strain off the cream. 
After the cream is strained, put into a thick saucepan the 
yolks of eight eggs, a pound of sugar, and the cream 
strained through a napkin ; dissolve an ounce and a half of 
gelatine in a gill of hot water ; whip half a pint of cream to 
a stiff froth ; put the saucepan containing the sugar, eggs, 
and cream over the fire, and stir it until it begins to thicken ; 
then remove it from the fire, and stir the dissolved gelatine 
into it for two minutes ; after stirring in the gelatine, mix in 
the whipped cream very quickly and lighdy ; put the coffee 
bombe into a tight-covered mould, and freeze it as directed 
for frozen puddings ; or put it into little paper cases, and 
freeze them for three hours, as directed in the proper recipe. 

ICE-CREAMS. 

The secret of making good ice-cream of any grade lies 
in the freezing. The old way of freezing cream, which is still 
in use among small confectioners, consisted of occasionally 
stirring the cream while it was freezing in a tin can set in a 
tub of ice and salt. A more easy and expeditious method 
is within the reach of the average housekeeper in these days 
of patent freezers. The same principle underlies all the best- 
known patents ; i.e., the mixing of the cream by a wooden 
beater which revolves inside the can by the same motion 
that slightly changes the position of the can in the outer tub 
of ice and salt. This freezing-mixture should be composed 
of three parts of crushed ice to one of coarse salt, and care 
should be taken that it does not reach high enough around 
the sides of the can to penetrate to the interior, and so 
spoil the cream ; the water formed in the outer tub by the 
melting of the freezing mixture need not be drawn off while 
the cream is being frozen, unless it is likely to get into the 



DESSERT. 527 

can, because the water is intensely cold. If it is desired to 
pack the cream after it is frozen, the water may be drawn 
off, and enough more ice and salt packed around the can to 
nearly reach to the top. Ice-cream packed in this way can 
be kept over night, or longer if the freezing mixture is prop- 
erly renewed. When ice-cream is " moulded," or packed in 
tin moulds of fancy shapes, all the openings should be closed 
with butter, or oiled paper closed about the apertures of the 
mould with paste or gum-tragacanth. 

Ice-creams of the most ordinary sort are made of milk, 
thickened with arrowroot or corn-starch in the proportion 
of a tablespoonful to a quart, dissolved in cold water, and 
then boiled in the milk, which is cooled, sweetened, and 
flavored before it is frozen. 

PLAIN ICE-CREAM. 

The sort of ice-cream usually made at home is composed 
of milk, with a small proportion of cream, with eggs and 
sugar added to it : for instance, dissolve half a pound of 
sugar in a quart of milk, place it over the fire, and let it heat 
to the boiling point ; meantime beat three eggs to a cream, 
pour the boiling milk into them, and then return to the fire, 
and stir it until it begins to thicken ; then at once remove it 
from the fire, stir it until it is smooth ; then flavor it, cool 
it, and when it is cool, freeze it, according to directions 
given, in the freezer. 

FROZEN CUSTARD. 

Frozen custard is made in the same way, only five eggs, 
at least, are added to a quart of milk. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE-CREAM. 

Philadelphia ice-cream is pure cream over-sweetened, 
over-flavored, and then frozen. 



528 FRACTJCAI. AMERICAN COOKERY. 

VANILLA ICE-CREAM. 

A good vanilla ice-cream is made from cream over- 
sweetened, and flavored with powdered vanilla-bean ; when 
it is half frozen, the white of an egg, beaten to a stiff froth, 
is stirred thoroughly into it, and the freezing is completed. 

FRENCH ICE-CREAM. 

French ice-cream, thick and yellow, is made by boiling a 
quart of cream with a long vanilla-bean, and then cooling 
and straining it ; then the yolks of twelve eggs are beaten 
smooth with three-quarters of a pound of sugar ; the flavored 
cream is then mixed with the eggs, and stirred over the fire 
until it begins to thicken ; directly the cream begins to 
thicken, take it from the fire, and stir it for five minutes ; 
then cool it, and freeze it. 

COFFEE ICE-CREAM. 

Coffee ice-cream is made by roasting half a pound of 
coffee, pouring three pints of boiling cream over it, and 
steeping for an hour; the cream, flavored with coffee, is 
then made according to the directions given for French ice- 
cream. A plainer coffee ice-cream is made by using five or 
six eggs to a quart of cream or milk. Tea ice-cream is 
similarly made, an ounce of tea being first infused in a quart 
of cream. 

BROWN-BREAD ICE-CREAM. 

For brown-bread ice-cream, grate fine about a cupful of 
brown bread, soak it for half an hour in a quart of cream, 
and then rather over-sweeten it ; have ready an ice-cream 
freezer packed with a freezing-mixture composed of one 
part salt to three parts pounded ice ; put the cream into the 
freezer, and freeze it in accordance with the directions 
which always accompany every freezer, some of which have 
already been given. 



DESSERT. 529 

FANCY ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 

The same care must be exercised in freezing fancy ice- 
creams ; and after the first freezing they are to be packed 
in moulds, which must be absokitely tight, and the moulds 
in turn packed in a large tub of pounded ice, and covered 
with a heavy woollen blanket or strip of soft carpet. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE-CREAM. 

Neapolitan or harlequin ice-cream is made by packing the 
mould with layers of various colored creams after they are 
frozen ; usually vanilla, pistache, and strawberry creams are 
used ; a good recipe is given above for vanilla ice-cream, 
another for strawberry is given below. 

PISTACHE ICE-CREAM. 

Pistache ice-cream is made by adding about two ounces 
of blanched pistache nuts to a quart of any good ice-cream ; 
the nuts are shelled, boiling water is poured over the ker- 
nels, and the skins rubbed off with a wet towel ; the nuts 
are then pounded to a smooth paste in a mortar, a few drops 
of rosewater being added to prevent oiling, and colored 
with spinach green, a harmless vegetable coloring sold by 
dealers in confectioners' supplies. 

TUTTI FRUTTI. 

Tutti Frutti is good vanilla ice-cream frozen, and then 
mixed with candied fruit, and packed in moulds for the 
second freezing ; the French candied fruits are the best for 
this cream. 

PLUM-PUDDING GLACE. 

Plum- pudding glace is made by first seeding twelve ounces 
of raisins, and boiling them gently for fifteen minutes in a 
quart of milk or cream with a small stick of cinnamon ; a 



530 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

quarter of a pound of almonds are to be shelled, their skins 
removed by pouring boiling water on them, and rubbing 
them in a wet towel ; they are then to be pounded fine in a 
mortar, with a few drops of rosewater j two ounces each of 
preserved ginger and citron are to be sliced thin, and the 
yolks of four eggs beaten to a cream with half a pound of 
powdered sugar ; the raisins and cinnamon are to be strained 
from the milk, which is to be returned to the fire, and stirred 
while the eggs and sugar are added to it ; it is to be stirred 
until it begins to thicken, then removed from the fire ; when 
it is cold, the fruit and almonds are to be added to it, with 
a quart of sweetened cream ; and it is to be frozen, and then 
packed in ice. In serving the pudding, whipped cream 
flavored with wine, brandy, or rum is placed around it after 
it is turned from the mould. 

FRUIT ICE-CREAMS. 

Fruit ice-creams are made by mixing fresh fruit-juice and 
cream in equal parts, and sweetening and freezing them. 
The fruit crushed is also used, with cream and sugar. Straw- 
berries, raspberries, and grated pineapple make delicious 
creams. Fresh fruits crushed, sweetened, and frozen are 
delicate and refreshing ; peaches and bananas are especially 
good so frozen. Fresh peaches frozen with Philadelphia 
ice-cream are excellent. Equal parts of good ice-cream and 
very sweet apple-sauce mixed, and frozen again, make a 
delicious cream. 

FRUIT-ICES. 

The ordinary fruit-ices are made by mixing equal parts of 
fruit-juice and water with plenty of sugar, and then freezing 
them ; less lemon-juice is required. Confectioners some- 
times add the beaten whites of two eggs to each quart of 
fruit-ice when it is partly frozen, and then finish the freezing. 



DESSERT. 531 

WATER-ICES. 

The finer water-ices are made of sirup and fruit-juice 
frozen ; the sirup is prepared by boiUng together four pounds 
of sugar, one quart of water, and the white of an egg beaten 
with tliem, for ten minutes ; the sirup is then strained and 
cooled ; for ices, a palatable mixture is made with fruit-juice, 
and when it is half frozen the white of one egg beaten is 
added. 

ROMAN PUNCH. 

Ordinary Roman punch is a plain fruit-ice to which rum 
is added, a gill to a quart, and, in serving, a teaspoonful of 
rum is placed in each glass. A finer sort is made of an ice 
with the sirup, to each quart of which, when half frozen, are 
added three whites of egg beaten stiff, six tablespoonfuls 
of powdered sugar, and one glass each of rum and brandy. 

ROMAN-PUNCH GLACE. 

Roman-punch g/ace is made by adding to a quart of 
lemon-ice made with sirup three whites of egg beaten stiff, 
and one glass each of brandy, champagne, and maraschino, 
and then freezing it. 

CHAMPA GNE-ICE. 

Have ready a freezer as directed in the recipes for freez- 
ing ices and creams. Make a very strong, sweet lemonade, 
and half freeze it, then mix with it a quart bottle of good 
champagne, after the lemonade is half frozen ; close the 
freezer again quickly, and freeze the ice. In mixing the 
champagne with the lemon-ice, open the champagne quickly, 
pour it at once into the freezer, close it without stirring it 
(because the mixer inside the freezer will do that), and then 
turn the freezer until the ice is hard enough to ser\'e ; the 
utmost expedition must be used in opening and mixing 
the champagne with the lemon-ice, because its volatile gas 



532 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



escapes so rapidly ; and the freezer must be kept closed and 
well packed with ice until the champagne-ice is served. 

FREEZING-TUB FOR SMALL ICES. 

The accompanying engraving shows the tub and mould 
for freezing small ices and creams in paper cases. The tub 
contains the mould packed in ice ; the mould is also shown 
outside the tub, and the frame which fits in the mould, and 




Freezing-Tub for Small Ices. 

holds the paper cases filled with creams or ices. After the 
frame is fitted into the mould, it is packed in the tub with 
the freezing-mixture, and covered with ice, and then with a 
folded blanket or a piece of clean carpet, until the contents 
of the little cases are frozen. 



CANNED FRUIT. 

The canning of fruit is a very simple matter. The fruit 
must be perfectly sound and ripe, and cut or kept whole to 
please the fancy. The jars should be of glass with porce- 
lain-lined tops, and rubber bands to exclude the air; put 
the cans into a pan of cold water with some hay or a folded 
towel under them, and set them on the stove to heat. Then 
put into them fruit scalded without sugar, or with as much 
sugar as is desired, keeping the cans in the hot water until 
the fruit has been put into them and the tops are screwed 



DESSERT. 533 

on ; then let them cool ; again screw down the tops as close 
as possible, and set the cans in a cool, dark closet. 

To can fruit without sugar, put it into the jars after it is 
prepared, set the jars on a rack of wooden slats in a large 
boiler ; pour in cold water enough to reach half way up the 
sides of the cans, spread a cloth over the top of the boiler, 
and put on the cover ; place the boiler over the fire ; when 
the steam begins to escape freely, note the time, and con- 
tinue the cooking of the fruit according to its size : in or- 
dinary quart cans, the small berries will cook in fifteen 
minutes ; the large berries, grapes, cherries, and currants, 
in about twenty minutes ; peaches, pears, plums, cut apples, 
pineapples, and most other large fruit, in twenty minutes ; 
quinces and hard pears require half an hour. After the fruit 
is done, the boiler should be removed from the fire, and as 
soon as the jars can be handled with the aid of folded dry 
towels the covers should be screwed on ; when the jars are 
cool, the covers should be tightened, and the fruit put away 
in a cool, dark place. 

PRESERVES AND JELLIES. 

The making of preserves and jellies was formerly much 
more the test of excellence among housekeepers than it is 
now. So many preserved and canned fruits are to be 
bought at reasonable prices, and of varying qualities, that 
even careful housekeepers use them. For the guidance of 
those who prefer the home-made kinds, two points may be 
emphasized : i.e., the keeping of preserves depends both 
upon the proportion of sugar used, and their thorough cook- 
ing ; and the excellence of jellies, upon the clear quality of 
the fruit-juice, and the boiling of the jelly until a little of it, 
cooled on a saucer, hardens or thickens to the desired con- 
sistency. 

The general principles given in one recipe apply to all 



534 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



the others of a similar kind. All jellies and preserves should 
be entirely closed from the air, and kept in a cool, dark 
place. If they show any sign of fermentation or mould, they 
should be boiled at once, with a little more sugar, and again 
closed from the air. 

JELLY-BAGS. 

The first cut shows a flannel jelly-bag tied upon a frame, 




Jelty-Bag on Frame. 



with a Utensil placed underneath to receive the jelly as it 
runs through the bag. The second figure represents a 



DESSERT. . 535 

kitchen rush-stool turned over, with a straining-cloth tied 
upon the bottom of the legs of the stool ; if a little depres- 
sion is left in the centre of the cloth, and a utensil set under 
it upon the rush of the stool, this improvised struner will 




Improvised Straining-Cloth for Soups and Jellies. 

serve the purpose of straining when a jelly-bag is not at 
hand. Or a fine towel may be folded twice, and laid in a 
colander set over an earthen bowl, and the jelly or broth 
strained^ through it. 



536 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



PINEAPPLE JELLY. 

Choose perfectly ripe pineapples, pare them thinly, re- 
move the eyes, and grate them ; to each pound of fruit add 
half a pound of white sugar, and let them stand two or three 
hours ; then put them over the fire in a porcelain-lined 
preserving-kettle, and let them slowly approach the boiling- 
point, and boil gently until the fruit is tender ; hang a jelly- 
bag over an earthen bowl, pour the hot pineapple and sirup 
into it, and let the sirup run through the bag without press- 
ing it ; do not squeeze the bag, and let the pineapple remain 
in it until every particle of the juice or sirup has drained 
from it ; it is well to let it drain over night. To each pint 
of the juice add half a pound of sugar, and boil it gently and 
steadily, removing all scum as fast as it rises ; after the jelly 
has boiled about fifteen minutes, take up a little on a saucer, 
and cool it to see if it will harden ; if it does not harden, 
continue the boiling a few moments, and then test it again ; 
when the jelly hardens upon cooliAg, remove it from the 
fire, cool it until it is lukewarm, then pour it into glasses, 
and let it get quite cold ; when the jelly is quite cold and 
firm, cover each glass with a piece of white paper dipped in 
brandy, and then paste over the tops of the glasses pieces of 
white paper dipped in the white of egg slightly beaten, tak- 
ing care to completely exclude the air from the glasses. 
Keep the jelly in a cool, dark, dry closet. 

SUGARED PINEAPPLE. 

Use sound, ripe pineapples ; peel and slice them about 
half an inch thick, removing the little brown circles with a 
small, sharp knife ; after the fruit is peeled, weigh it, and 
allow a pound and a quarter of crushed sugar to each pound 
of fruit ; roll the sugar until it is quite fine ; put the pine- 
apple and sugar into glass jars, in alternate layers, using the 



DESSERT. 537 

sugar profusely ; after filling the jars, seal them air-tight, and 
keep them in a cool place until the pineapple is required ; 
the fruit will keep a long time if the jars are properly sealed. 

PINEAPPLE PRESERVES. 

Use perfectly sound, ripe pineapples ; peel and slice them, 
and for each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar ; put the 
sugar and fruit in layers in a deep bowl, having sugar at 
the top and bottom, and let the pineapple stand over night. 
In the morning strain the sirup into a preserving-kettle, place 
it over the fire, and boil it gently, skimming it until it is 
quite clear ; after the sirup is free from scum, continue to 
boil it slowly and steadily until a little of it, cooled upon a 
saucer, thickens to a medium consistency ; then pour the 
sirup again upon the pineapple, and let it cool. 

When the preserves are quite cold, put them up as di- 
rected in the recipe for pineapple-jelly. 

CRAB-APPLE JELLY. 

Wash and stem the apples, cut them in halves, put them 
over the fire in enough cold water to cover them, and stew 
them to a pulp ; then pour them into a jelly-bag, and let the 
juice drain from them. The apple-pulp may be sweetened 
and used for luncheon. To make the jelly, allow a pound 
of sugar to a pint of juice ; boil them together, removing all 
scum, for about twenty minutes, or until a little of the juice 
forms a jelly on being cooled. Then partly cool the jelly, 
and put it up as already directed for jellies. 

CRAB-APPLE JELLY WITH LEMON. 

To each pound of crab-apples allow one lemon ; cut the 
yellow rind of the lemon very thin, and squeeze and strain 
the juice ; make the jelly according to the preceding recipe, 
boiling the yellow rind with the apples, and adding the 



538 /'KACT/CAL AMERICA jY COOKERY. 

lemon-juice just before the jelly is thick enough to put up 
in the glasses. 

CRAB- APPLE PRESERVE. 

Wash the apples, leaving on the stems, put them over the 
lire with an equal weight of sugar, and boiling water enough 
to cover them, and boil them gently until they are tender, 
but not broken, removing all scum as it rises ; when the 
apples are tender, skim them out of the sirup, and put them 
in jars ; boil the sirup until it begins to thicken ; then cool 
it, pour it over the apples, and put them up like other 
preserves. 

APPLE-JELLY. 

Choose a dozen large, sound, spicy apples ; wipe them 
with a wet cloth, quarter them, and remove the cores ; put 
the apples into a saucepan, with a pint of cold water, place 
them over the fire, and simmer them gently for half an hour. 
Then place a sieve over an earthen bowl, pour the apples 
into the sieve without breaking them, and let the juice drain 
into the bowl entirely. When all the juice has run through 
the sieve, use the apples for sauce, first sweetening them a 
little. Then strain the apple-juice, add to each pint of juice 
a pound of white sugar, put the juice and sugar into a 
preserving-kettle, set it over the fire, and heat its contents 
gradually. After the jelly begins to boil, boil it for ten min- 
utes, and then cool it in glasses or moulds. 

APPLE MARMALADE. 

Peel seven pounds of tart apples, and put them into the 
preserving-kettle with a pint of cold water ; peel the yellow 
rind of four lemons, and add it to the apples ; squeeze the 
juice of the lemons, and keep it until the apples are boiled 
to a pulp ; then add it to them, together with four pounds 
of sugar, and boil the marmalade for half an hour longer, 
or until it has the proper consistency. Put it up in jelly- 
glasses after it has cooled a httle. 



DESSERT. 539 



NEW-ENGLAND APPLE-JAM. 

Choose rather tart, highly flavored apples ; pare, and slice 
them thin, or chop them rather small, removing the cores ; 
weigh them after they are prepared, and allow an equal 
weight of light-brown sugar; to each pound of sugar add 
a gill of cold water, put them together in a preserving-kettle 
over the fire, melt the sugar, and boil the sirup, skimming 
it until it is clear ; then put in the apples ; grate the yellow 
rind and squeeze the juice of one lemon, and scrape and 
slice one small green ginger-root, for each pound of apples ; 
add both to the apples and sirup as soon as they are pre- 
pared, and boil all slowly until the apples look clear, stirring 
them often enough to prevent burning. When the jam is 
cooked sufficiently, partly cool it in the preserving-kettle, 
and then put it up in glass or earthen jars, sealing them air- 
tight after they are cold. 

PLUM MARMALADE. 

Wash and drain the plums, cut them quite to the stone 
with a silver fruit-knife, put them into the preserving-kettle, 
and place it over a moderate fire ; stir the plums often 
enough to prevent burning, and as the stones rise to the 
surface in boiling skim them out ; simmer the plums until 
they are tender enough to rub through a sieve ; crack about 
a quarter of the stones, peel the kernels, and cut them in 
strips ; after the plums are tender, rub them through a sieve 
with a wooden spoon or a potato-masher ; add the kernels, 
and weigh the pulp ; allow three-quarters as much sugar as 
there is fruit ; put them together into the preserving-kettle, 
stir them until they boil, and gently boil them for ten min- 
utes, stirring constantly ; then partly cool the marmalade, 
and put it up as already directed. 



540 PRACTICAL AMERICA.V COOKERY. 

PLUM- J AM. 

Wash, dry, and weigh the plums ; allow three-quarters of 
their weight in sugar ; put the plums over the fire, and boil 
them gently for three-quarters of an hour, stirring them 
often enough to prevent burning; remove the stones as 
they rise to the surface, and crack one-fourth of them ; at 
the end of three-quarters of an hour put in the sugar, and 
continue to boil the jam for fifteen minutes, stirring it con- 
stantly, and removing all scum as it rises ; five minutes 
before it is done, put in the kernels ; when the jam is partly 
cool, put it in jars ; when it is quite cold, lay paper dipped 
in brandy in each jar, and seal them air-tight. 

PLUM- JELLY. 

Plum-jelly is made from equal parts of plum-juice, 
obtained by boiling the plums as apples are boiled for apple- 
jelly and white sugar; finish the jelly as directed in the 
recipe for apple-jelly. 

BRANDIED GREEN-GAGE PLUMS. 

Choose perfectly sound green-gage plums, not quite ripe ; 
wash them in cold water, and wipe them dry ; have plenty 
of peach or vine leaves washed and drained ; in the bottom 
of a preserving-kettle put a layer of leaves three deep ; weigh 
the plums, and to each pound allow a piece of alum as large 
as a grain of corn ; put the plums and leaves into the kettle 
in layers, with the alum pulverized and sprinkled among 
them ; cover the last layer of plums with a layer of leaves 
three deep, and pour over them just enough cold water to 
cover them ; spread a clean towel over the top of the kettle, 
and then fit on a perfectly tight cover to keep in the steam ; 
place the kettle on the back of the stove, where its contents 
will heat gradually, and steam them for two hours ; do not 



DESSERT. 541 

allow the plums to boil, or they will soften and break ; when 
they are quite green, drain them and cool them, and put them 
into wide-mouthed glass jars. 

Make a sirup as follows : For each pound of plums allow 
half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water ; put them 
into a preserving-kettle, and boil and skim the sirup until it 
is clear ; then cool it, and add to it an equal measure of the 
best French brandy ; when both plums and sirup are quite 
cold, fill the jars with the sirup, and then cork and seal them 
air-tight. 

PRESERVED PEARS. 

Choose firm acid pears for preserving ; if the fruit is small, 
preserve it whole ; if large, cut it in halves or quarters ; peel 
the pears with a silver fruit-knife, dropping them into cold 
water as fast as they are peeled, to prevent discoloration ; 
when the fruit is all prepared, weigh it, and allow an equal 
quantity of sugar ; put the fruit over the fire in sufficient 
cold water to entirely cover it, and heat and gently boil it 
until it is tender enough to yield to a slight pressure of the 
fingers ; meantime put the sugar into the preserving-kettle, 
adding to each pound a pint of cold water, and to every five 
or six pounds the thinly pared yellow rind and juice of two 
lemons, and two ounces of green ginger-root scalded and 
scraped ; boil the sirup, and remove all scum as it rises ; 
when the pears are boiled, as directed above, put them into 
the sirup, and boil them until they look clear; when the 
pears are thoroughly penetrated with the sirup, remove the 
preserving-kettle from the fire, cool the preserves in the sirup, 
and then put them up as already directed. 

PEAR MARMALADE. 

Peel, quarter, and core ripe pears, weighing them after 
they are peeled ; put them into the preserving-ketde, with 
enough cold water to cover them, heat them slowl)', and boil 



542 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

them gently until they are quite tender ; then skim them 
from the water ; in their place put the peelings and cores, 
and boil them for an hour, and then strain the water from 
them ; allow a i)int of this water and a pound of sugar to 
each pound of fruit ; put the sugar and water over the fire 
in the preserving-kettle, boil them to a sirup, removing all 
scum as it rises, and testing the sirup occasionally ; when a 
little of it, cooled on a saucer, jellies slightly, stir the pears 
into it, and boil the marmalade for five minutes, stirring it 
constantly; then partly cool it, and put it up as already 
directed. 

FEAR-JAM. 

Peel, quarter, and core perfectly ripe pears ; weigh them, 
and then pack them closely into an earthen jar ; place the jar 
in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and let it remain 
until the fruit is soft enough to break apart ; then put an 
equal weight of sugar over the fire, with a pint of water to 
each pound of sugar, and skim it until it forms a clear sirup ; 
put the pears into the sirup, and stir them frequently until 
they boil ; after they begin to boil, stir them constantly, and 
boil for twenty minutes ; then partly cool the jam, and put 
it up as already directed. 

SUGARED QUINCES. 

Select sound, firm quinces ; wipe them with a wet cloth, 
pare them, cut them in eighths, and core them ; put the 
cores and parings into a small cloth bag, and boil them with 
the quinces, which must be put over the fire in a preserving- 
kettle, with boiling water enough to cover them, and boiled 
gently until they are tender, then drain and cool them-; after 
they are cool, weigh them, and allow an equal amount of 
granulated sugar ; when the quinces are quite cold, put them 
into glass or earthen jars in layers with the sugar, and cover 
the jars air-tight. Look at them frequently ; if they show 



DESSEHT. 543 

any sign of fermentation, place the jars in a large pan of 
warm water, loosen the co\'ers, and heat the water until the 
quinces are scalding hot ; close the jars again air-tight after 
the quinces are scalded. 

QUINCES PRESERVED WHOLE. 

Peel rather small ripe quinces, of even size, scoop out the 
cores from the stem ends, weigh, and put the fruit into a 
preserving-kettle ; cover it with boiling water, and boil it 
gently until it is tender, but not in the least broken ; the 
cores and peelings should be tied in a thin cloth, and boiled 
with the fruit ; add to the water in which the fruit was 
boiled one pound of sugar to each pound of fruit, removing 
all scum as it rises, and when it is quite free from scum, 
pour it over the fruit, and let it stand over night ; the next 
day put the fruit and sirup into the preserving-kettle, and 
boil them gently together until the fruit looks clear ; take the 
fruit from the sirup when it looks clear, and put it into glass 
jars ; continue to boil the sirup until a little of it cooled on 
a saucer jellies, then pour it over the fruit. When the pre- 
serves are cold, close the jars air-tight. 

QUINCE-JELLY. 

Quince-jelly is made like apple-jelly, boiling the quinces 
until tender, and then using their juice with an equal part 
of sugar ; the quince parings and cores should be enclosed 
in a small bag, and boiled with the fruit. The residue of 
the quinces may be made into jam. 

PRESERVED PEACHES. 

Choose perfectly sound, ripe, freestone peaches ; either 
pare them very thinly with a silver knife, without bruising 
them, or have ready a gallon of scalding-hot water in which 
a teaspoonful of washing-soda has been dissolved, and throw 



544 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the peaches into it, a few at a time, keeping it scalding hot, 
letting them remain in it until their skins burst a little, when 
they can easily be removed. As fast as the peaches are 
peeled, cut them in halves, take out the stones, and throw 
them into cold water. When all the peaches are peeled, 
weigh tliem, and also weigh an equal quantity of white 
sugar ; in the bottom of a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle 
put a layer of sugar, then add a layer of peaches with their 
hollow side up, then more sugar, and more peaches, until 
all are used, covering the top with a layer of sugar. Cover 
the kettle, and let the fruit stand in the sugar over night. 
The next day set the preserving-kettle on a gentle fire, and 
boil the peaches steadily until they look clear, skimming 
them as often as any scum rises. When they are cooked, 
cover the preserving-kettle, and let the peaches stand in 
sirup, off the fire, until they are quite cold ; then put them 
in jars ; lay a small piece of writing-paper wet with brandy 
on the top of the preserves before closing the jars, and then 
close them air-tight. A piece of writing-paper dipped in 
the white of egg, slightly beaten, and pressed down over the 
mouth of the jar, will effectually exclude the air. 

PEACH-JULLY. 

Peach-jelly is made like the other fruit-jellies ; and after 
the juice is strained off, the fruit may be sweetened for the 
table. 

JELLIED PEACHES. 

Peel the peaches, and lay them in cold water, as directed 
in the preceding recipe ; crack one-fourth of the kernels, 
and boil them for half an hour in just enough water to cover 
them ; when all the peaches are peeled, put them into a 
preserving-kettle, with an equal quantity of sugar, in layers, 
and heat them slowly until the sugar melts ; then add the 
water in which the kernels were boiled, and boil the peaches 



DESSERT. 545 

gently until they are transparent ; take them from the sirup 
with a skimmer, and lay them on sieves ; boil the sirup until 
it jellies, removing all scum as it rises ; put the peaches into 
glass jars, pour the hot sirup over them, and let them cool ; 
then close them air-tight, as directed in the preceding recipe. 

PEACH MARMALADE. 

Brush the fur from sound, ripe peaches, cut them in 
halves, remove the stones, and crack half of them ; pour 
boiling water over the cracked kernels, rub off the skins, 
and cut them in strips lengthwise. Weigh the peaches, and 
put them into a preserving-kettle with three-fourths of their 
weight of sugar ; set the kettle over the fire where its con- 
tents will heat gradually ; stir the marmalade with a wooden 
spoon constantly after it begins to boil, and let it boil for 
half an hour ; at the end of twenty-five minutes add the 
kernels ; put the marmalade into earthen jars, and when it 
is thoroughly cold lay a round of paper dipped in brandy 
in each jar, and seal them air-tight. 

BRANDY PEACHES. 

Peel sound Morris White peaches as directed in the recipe 
for preserved peaches, putting them into hot water while 
the following sirup is made : For each pound of peaches 
allow a pound of sugar and half a pint of water; boil 
them together, removing all scum as it rises, and when the 
sirup is clear, cool it, and mix it with an equal quantity of 
the best French brandy ; also boil together a pound of sugar 
and two quarts of water, and when it has been skimmed 
■clear, put in a few peaches at a time, and boil them until 
they are tender enough to yield under slight pressure ; then 
take them up, and put them into jars ; cover them with the 
brandied sirup, and close the jars air-tight. 



546 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

APRICOT MARMALADE. 

Prepare the marmalade as directed in the preceding re- 
cipes for marmalade, boiling the fruit only 'twenty minutes; 
and then put up the marmalade as directed above. 

APRICOT PRESERVES AND JELLY. 

Jelly and preserves can be made from apricots by follow- 
ing the directions given in the peach recipes. 

CHERRY PRESERVES. 

The Morello cherry, and the large red variety ordinarily 
used for pies, make the best preserves. Choose fine, sound 
fruit, as large as possible, reserving the smaller fruit for mar- 
malade. Stem the cherries, and stone the fruit without 
bruising it ; this is not difficult if a quill is squarely cut off, 
and pushed evenly through the cherries from the stem end, 
thus punching out the stones. All the juice from the fruit 
should be saved. After the fruit is stoned, weigh it, and 
allow an equal quantity of sugar ; sprinkle the sugar among 
the cherries, and let them stand for several hours, or over 
night, so that the sugar may slightly harden the fruit ; then 
put the fruit, sugar, and juice into a preserving-kettle, place 
it over the fire, gradually heat them together, and then boil 
them gently until t\\e cherries look clear, removing all scum 
as it rises. After the fruit is clear, take the preser\'ing-kettle 
from the fire, cover it, and let the preserves cool ; when 
quite cool, put the cherries into glass jars, lay a piece of 
brandied paper on the top of each jar, and then close them 
air-tight, and keep them in a cool, dark closet. 

The sweeter varieties of cherries should be reserved for pies 
and puddings. 

CHERRY MARMALADE. 

Stem and stone fine cherries as directed in the recipe for 
cherry preserves ; weigh them, and use half their weight in 



DESSERT. 547 

sugar ; put the sugar over the fire in a preserving-kettle, with 
half a pint of cold water to each pound of sugar, and let the 
sugar boil until a few drops of it cooled in cold water are 
crisp and still slightly sticky ; when the sugar is so boiled, 
put the fruit into it, and boil it rapidly, stirring it meantime 
until the marmalade is quite thick and the fruit clear and 
semi-transparent ; then remove the kettle from the fire, 
partly cool the marmalade, and put it up like other preserves. 

BRANDIED CHERRIES. 

Use perfectly sound, large, sweet cherries ; remove the 
stems, or clip them within an inch of the fruit ; put over the 
fire in the preserving-kettle a pound of sugar and a quart of 
water ; boil them together, and skim the sirup quite clear ; 
scald the cherries in this for two or three minutes, but not 
long enough to break the skins ; then take them from the 
sirup with a skimmer, and spread them on dishes to cool. 

Make a sirup in quantity sufficient to cover the cherries, 
allowing a pound of sugar to half a pint of water or of the 
thin sirup used for scalding the cherries ; boil the sirup, 
skimming it until it is clear, and then cool it ; when it is 
cold, mix with it an equal quantity of the best French brandy. 
Put the, cherries into wide-mouthed botdes, pour the sirup 
over them, cork the botdes tight, and then seal them by 
dipping the corks into melted resin and wax. 

RASPBERRY PRESERVES. 

Choose large, fine berries which are quite ripe, look care- 
fully at every one to make sure no insects or worms are 
hidden in the hollows of the fruit, and then weigh it. Allow 
an equal weight of sugar and fruit ; put a thick layer of 
sugar on the bottom of the preserving-kettle; and then fill 
the kettle with alternate layers of fruit and sugar, having 
sugar on the top ; let the fruit stand in the sugar over night. 



548 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

The next day stem ripe currants, break them, and squeeze 
their juice through a cloth ; allow half a pint of juice to 
each two pounds of fruit and sugar, weighed together ; set 
the preserving-kettle containing the crushed berries and 
sugar over the fire, add the currant-juice in the proportion 
specified above, and stir them together until they boil ; re- 
move all scum as it rises, and stir the berries often enough 
to prevent sticking, taking care not to break them ; boil the 
preserves until they look quite clear, and then cool them, 
and put them up as directed for other preserves. Keep these 
preserves, like all others, in a cool, dark closet. 

MRS. CHARLES THORNTON ADAMS'S RASPBERRY JAM. 

When raspberry -jam has been boiled nearly long enough, 
put currant-jelly with it, in the proportion of half a pint of 
jelly to a quart of jam, and stir them thoroughly together; 
then cool the jam, and put it up in the usual way. 

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT JAM. 

After carefully looking over raspberries, weigh them, and 
allow an equal quantity of sugar. To each pound of fruit 
and sugar (that is, the united weight of both) allow half 
a pint of the juice of currants, bruised and squeezed in a 
cloth. Put the currant-juice and raspberries in a preserving- 
kettle over the fire, break the berries with a wooden spoon, 
and stir them constandy until they have boiled quickly long 
enough to waste about two-thirds of their juice ; then put 
in the sugar, and continue the stirring until it is completely 
dissolved ; when the sugar is dissolved, simmer the jam 
slowly for five minutes, stirring it often enough to prevent 
burning. 

Cool, and p'lt up the jam as directed in the other recipes 
for jams. 



DESSERT. 549 

CURRANT-JAM. 

Choose fine, ripe currants ; stem them, and weigh them ; 
allow an equal weight of sugar ; put the fruit and sugar in a 
preserving-kettle over a moderate fire, and stir them occa- 
sionally until they boil ; remove all scum as it rises, and 
boil the jam ten minutes from the time it begins to boil ; 
then partly cool the jam, and put it into glasses or jars ; 
when quite cold, put a round of paper dipped in brandy in 
each glass or jar, and close them from the air with paper 
dipped in the white of an egg slightly beaten. 

CURRANT-JELL Y. 

After removing the stems from ripe currants, put them 
over the fire, and break them until they yield their juice ; 
then strain it through a jelly-bag, and make the jelly as di- 
rected in the recipes for other fruit-jelhes, allowing a pound 
of sugar to each pint of juice. 

BLACKBERRY AND APPLE JAM. 

Use equal weights of blackberries, and fresh apples peeled 
and cored ; put the fruit into a preserving-kettle with an 
equal weight of sugar, and place it over a moderate fire ; re- 
move all scum as it rises, and boil the jam for three-quar- 
ters of an hour, stirring it frequently ; then cool it, and put 
it up as already directed for other jams. 

BARBERR Y-JAM. 

Allow equal weights of barberries and brown sugar ; pick 
over the barberries, remove the stems, and weigh the ber- 
ries ; put them into the preserving-ketde with an equal 
weight of sugar, and a gill of cold water for each pound of 
sugar ; let the sugar melt, and the fruit slowly reach the 
boiling-point, stirring it occasionally ; when the fruit boils, 



550 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

put the kettle where its contents will simmer, and cook the 
jam slowly for an hour, stirring it occasionally to prevent 
burning ; when the fruit looks clear, and is of the proper 
consistency for jam, take the kettle off the fire, let the jam 
cool, and then put it into glass or earthen jars or jelly- 
glasses ; cover the surface of the jam with a round piece of 
white paper wet with brandy, and then seal the jars air- 
tight. 

BARBERR Y-JELL Y. 

Pick over sound berries, weigh them, put them into the 
preserving-kettle with water enough to prevent burning, and 
boil the berries to a pulp ; pour the berries and their juice 
into a jelly-bag, and let the juice run through the bag with- 
out pressure ; to each pint of juice add a pound of sugar ; 
boil the sugar and juice together, removing all scum which 
may rise, until a little cooled on a saucer becomes fif*; 
then cool the jelly a little, and put it up in glasses, covered 
with paper to exclude the air. 

BARBERR Y-JAM. 

After making jelly, weigh the berries which remain in the 
jelly-bag, put them into the preserving-kettle with an equal 
amount of brown sugar, and boil them to a thick jam, re- 
moving all scum which rises, and stirring them to prevent 
sticking to the kettle or burning ; when the jam is done, 
cool it a little, and put it up in air-tight jars or glasses cov- 
ered with paper. 

PRESERVED MULBERRIES. 

Put two quarts of mulberries over the fire in a porcelain- 
lined kettle, after they have been carefully looked over, and 
the stems removed, and let them stand until they yield their 
juice ; then squeeze them, and strain their juice ; to each 
pint of mulberry -juice add two pounds of sugar ; put the 



n/iSs/iA' 1 . 551 

sugar and juice over the fire, and boil and skim them until 
they are clear ; meantime, pick over more mulberries ; 
allow two quarts of berries to the above-named quantity of 
sugar and juice ; put them over the fire, and cook them 
gently until they are just tender, but not broken ; when the 
berries are tender, let them stand over night in the sirup ; 
the next day skim the berries out of the sirup, and put 
them into glass jars ; put the sirup over the fire, and boil it 
until it begins to thicken ; then pour it over the berries, 
close the jars, and seal them air-tight. 

PRESERVED ELDERBERRIES. 

Use three parts of elderberries, one part of the pulp of 
green grapes prepared as directed below, and an equal 
weight of sugar ; pick the grapes from the stems, put them 
over the fire, and soften them with gentle heat until the pulp 
can be separated from the seeds by rubbing through a col- 
ander ; while the grapes are being softened, pick the elder- 
berries from the stems ; put the sugar, grape-pulp, and 
elderberries over the fire in a porcelain-lined kettle, and 
stew them gently until the sirup begins to thicken, removing 
all scum as it rises ; then cool them a little, put them 
into glass jars, and seal them air-tight. 

ELDERBERRY AND GRAPE JELLY. 

Use one third of ripe grapes, and two thirds of ripe elder- 
berries free from stems ; put them over the fire in a pre- 
serving-kettle, and cook them slowly until the juice flows 
freely ; then pour them into a jelly-bag, and let them drain 
until all the juice is extracted. To each pint of the juice 
add a pint of granulated sugar ; put them into the preserv- 
ing-kettle, set it over the fire, and stir until the sugar is dis- 
solved ; continue the boiling until a little of the jelly cooled 
on a saucer stiffens j then partly cool it, pour it into jelly- 



552 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

glasses, and when the jelly is quite cold cover the glasses 
with white paper fastened with white of egg or mucilage. 

PRESERVED GRAPES. 

Pick ripe, sound grapes from the stems, and weigh them; 
squeeze the pulp from the skins, and save each in a sepa- 
rate vessel ; use as many pounds of sugar as there are 
grapes ; put the sugar into the preserving-kettle with half a 
pint of water to each pound, and let it boil, skimming it 
until it is clear ; then put the pulp of the grapes into this 
sirup, and let them boil for two minutes ; next turn the 
grape-pulp and sirup into a fine hair sieve, and rub them 
through it with a potato-masher, or a wooden spoon, to free 
them from seeds ; then put them again into the preserving- 
kettle, together with the grape-skins, return it to the fire, 
and let its contents boil for about two minutes, or until the 
skins grow plump and full ; after that, cool the preserve, 
and put it up in glass jars, as already directed in other 
preserve recipes. 

GRAPE JELLY. 

Jelly can be made from either ripe or green grapes by fol- 
lowing any of the jelly recipes. 

GOOSEBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE. 

Choose perfectly sound, ripe gooseberries, remove the 
tops and stems, and wash and dry them ; weigh them, and 
allow an equal weight of sugar; to each pound of sugar 
allow half a pint of water ; put the sugar and water in a pre- 
serving-kettle over the fire, and boil and skim it until it is 
perfectly clear ; then put the gooseberries into an earthen 
bowl, and pour the boiling sirup over them ; turn a plate 
over the berries to keep them under the sirup, and let them 
stand in it until the next day. The next day, put the fruit 
and sirup in the preserving-kettle, and boil them gently to- 



DESSERT. 553 

gether until the gooseberries look clear. Cool the goose- 
berries in the preserving-kettle, and then put them up as 
already directed for other preserves, in glass jars, carefully 
excluding the air. 

JELLIED GOOSEBERRIES. 

Pick over gooseberries, removing the tops and stems, and 
separating the largest ones from the rest; put the smaller 
gooseberries into a preserving-kettle, adding half a pint of 
water to each quart of berries, and stew them to a pulp ; 
then pour them into a jelly-bag, and let them drain all night. 
The next day put the large gooseberries over the fire in a 
saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and stew 
them gently until they begin to grow tender ; then skim 
them out of the boiling water, and put them into a pan of 
cold water. Meantime, measure the juice from the goose- 
berries already cooked, and allow a pound of sugar to each 
pint of juice ; put the fruit-juice and sugar into the preserv- 
ing-kettle, heat, and stir them together, removing all scum 
which rises when the sirup begins to boil ; when the sirup is 
quite clear, drain the large berries, put them into it, and boil 
them until they look clear ; then skim them out, and put 
them into glasses or glass jars ; continue to boil the sirup 
until a little of it jellies when cooled on a saucer ; then 
remove it from the fire, partly cool it, and pour it over the 
preserved gooseberries ; when they are quite cold, close 
them from the air, as directed for other preserves. 

RED-GOOSEBERRY JAM. 

Remove the tops and stems from three pounds of ripe red 
gooseberries, and strip a pound of red currants from the 
stems ; put the fruit over the fire in the preserving-ketde, 
heat it gradually, and stir it frequently to prevent burning ; 
when the fruit begins to break, add to it three pounds of 



554 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

sugar, and continue the boiling, stirring the jam almost con- 
stantly to prevent burning ; let it boil steadily for about half 
an hour, or until a little of it cooled on a saucer seems of the 
proper consistency ; then partly cool it, and put in jars or 
glasses ; when the jam is quite cold, put a piece of paper 
wet in brandy in each jar, and close them all air-tight. 

GREEN- GOOSEBERRY JAM. 

Pick over green gooseberries, remove the tops and stems, 
wash them, and then put them into a preserving-kettle with 
half a cupful of cold water to each pound of gooseberries ; 
set them over the fire until they begin to soften ; then add 
to them an equal weight of sugar, and continue the boiling 
until a little of the jam cooled on a saucer is as thick as 
jelly ; after the sugar is added, the jam must be stirred fre- 
quently to prevent burning ; and when it begins to grow 
thick it must be stirred incessantly, or it will surely burn. 
The jam must boil about three-quarters of an hour. When 
it is done, remove the preserving-kettle from the fire, and 
partly cool the jam ; then put it up, as directed for other 
preserves, carefully excluding the air. 

JELLIED CRANBERRIES. 

Pick over and wash two quarts of cranberries, put them 
into a porcelain-lined saucepan with sufficient cold water to 
cover them ; place the saucepan over the fire, and slowly 
stew the fruit until it is soft enough to be pressed through a 
fine sieve with a potato-masher ; to each pint of the cran- 
berry-pulp add a pound of fine white sugar ; put the cran- 
berry-pulp and sugar over the fire, and boil them, stirring 
them constandy, for about fifteen minutes, or until a little of 
the jelly cooled on a saucer thickens to the desired consist- 
ency ; when the jelly is properly boiled, pour it into moulds 
wet in cold water, and let it cool until it is firm. It is then 



DESSERT. 555 

ready for use. Serve the jellied cranberries with chicken 
pot-pie ; or use them for cranberry tart, or as a sauce. 

RHUBARB-JELL Y. 

Wash and peel some garden rhubarb or pie-plant, and 
cut it in inch pieces ; weigh it, and allow an equal weight of 
sugar ; put the sugar and rhubarb together in a porcelain- 
lined preserving-kettle over the fire where it cannot burn, 
and boil it gently until the rhubarb is almost entirely dis- 
solved ; then pour it into a jelly-bag to drain. When all the 
juice has run through the bag, put it again over the fire, and 
boil it for about twenty minutes, or until a few drops of it 
will jelly when let fall into a glass of ice-water, or cooled on 
a saucer ; while the jelly is boiling, remove all scum that 
rises ; when it is done, put it up in glasses, sealing them air- 
tight when the jelly is cold. 

Any rhubarb remaining in the jelly-bag can be sweetened 
and used on the table. 

RHUBARB MARMALADE. 

Peel and slice any desired quantity of garden rhubarb 
or pie-plant ; put it into a preserving-kettle with an equal 
weight of sugar, and the grated yellow rind and juice of one 
lemon to each pound of rhubarb ; stir it often enough to 
prevent burning, remove all scum as it rises, and boil the 
marmalade until a little of it jellies when cooled on a saucer. 
When the marmalade is partly cooled, put it into glasses or 
glass jars ; when it is quite cold, lay a round of paper dipped 
in brandy in each glass or jar, and then seal them quite air- 
tight. Keep the marmalade in a cool, dark place. 

RHUBARB-JAM. 

Use equal weights of garden rhubarb, or pie-plant, and 
sugar, and to each pound of rhubarb one lemon ; peel the 



556 rKACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

thin yellow rind of the lemons into a large bowl, then cut 
away the thick white part of the skin, and slice the pulp of 
the lemons into the bowl, removing all the seeds ; peel and 
slice the rhubarb about half an inch thick, put it into the 
bowl, and put the sugar over it ; let the fruit and sugar stand 
over night. The next morning put all these ingredients into 
a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle, and boil them for three- 
quarters of an hour over a very gentle fire, then cool the 
jam, and put it up as already directed in preserve recipes. 

STRAWBERRY PRESERVES. 

The three recipes for strawberry preserves have been in 
use in the School of Cookery for several years, and have been 
published several times ; and, as they are entirely satisfac- 
tory, the author sees no reason for altering them. The 
Wiesbaden recipe is especially good. 

Choose large, rather acid berries, of firm flesh, and not 
over-ripe ; hull them, and if there is any sand on them wash 
and drain them ; weigh the berries, and allow an equal 
weight of sugar; in the bottom of a porcelain-lined preserv- 
ing-kettle put a layer of sugar, and then fill the kettle with 
layers of fruit and sugar, having a thick layer of sugar on 
top ; cover the kettle, and let the berries stand over night in 
the sugar. The next morning put the preserving-kettle over 
the fire without disturbing its contents, and boil the berries 
gently until they look clear, removing all scum as it rises, 
and taking care not to let the berries break. When the 
berries are clear, set the preserving-kettle off the fire, and let 
its contents cool, keeping the kettle covered ; then transfer 
the berries to glass jars, lay a round of white paper wet in 
brandy over each one, and close the jars air-tight. If the 
preserves are put up in tumblers, seal them from the air with 
paper dipped in the white of egg slightly beaten. 



DESSERT. 557 

WIESBADEN PRESERVES. 

The following recipe is copied from the admirable House- 
hold Department of the " Philadelphia Ledger," and has 
been found excellent upon trial. 

Three or four hours before they are to be bottled, or, if 
the weather is cool, the night before, remove the hulls from 
freshly picked berries. As the berries are hulled, place them 
in earthen dishes, adding sugar plentifully, as if preparing 
them for immediate use on the table. Be careful to add the 
sugar so that it will be mixed through the berries without 
having to stir them. Set the dishes away in a cool place. 
When ready to bottle them, pour off the juice which the 
sugar will have extracted from the berries ; place it in a 
kettle, adding a little water, in the proportion of one small 
cupful to four quarts of juice ; this will be about the quan- 
tity that will evaporate from the juice while boiling. As 
soon as the juice is boiling, put in enough berries to fill one 
bottle. Stir them down very gently ; let them stay in about 
two minutes, then lift out with a strainer, so as to take no 
juice with them ; fill the bottle two-thirds full, and place it 
in a pan of hot water to keep warm. Proceed in the same 
way until all the berries have been used, taking only enough 
for one bottle at a time. Then fill each bottle up with 
the boiling juice, put a teaspoonful of sweet olive-oil in the 
neck (the secret of the famous Wiesbaden preserved fruits), 
and seal quickly. Put up in this way, strawberries keep 
their color and taste. The oil prevents the penetration of 
any air to the fruit. 

STRA WBERR Y-JAM. 

Use small or crushed berries, carefully rejecting all de- 
cayed ones ; prepare them as directed for preserves, and 
allow three-quarters of their weight in sugar ; crush the 
berries and sugar in the preserving-kettle with a potato- 



558 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

masher or a wooden spoon, and then heat them together and 
boil them for about half an hour, or until a little jam cooled 
on a saucer looks thick and clear ; remove all scum as it 
rises ; when the jam is done, cool it, and put it up as direct- 
ed in the recipe for strawberry preserves. 

Another method of making the jam is to crush the berries 
and sugar together, and let them stand two or three hours 
before cooking them. 

FLORIDA ORANGE MARMALADE. 

Grate off the yellow rind of nine large oranges ; add to 
the grated rind the juice of three large lemons ; remove the 
thick white rind from the grated oranges, and all the rind 
from nine more ; weigh the eighteen oranges, and allow an 
equal weight of white sugar. Put the grated rind, lemon- 
juice, and sugar over the fire, and let them boil ; meantime 
free the pulp and juice of the oranges from all the white 
skin, and add them to the boiling sugar ; boil the marma- 
lade slowly until a little of it cooled on a saucer jellies. Put 
it away as directed in the recipe for other marmalades. 

PRESERVED TOMATOES. 

Use small yellow tomatoes, perfectly ripe and sound ; pour 
boiling water over them, and then peel them, being careful 
to keep chem entire. Weigh the tomatoes, and allow an 
equal quantity of sugar ; to each pound of sugar use half a 
lemon thinly sliced, the seeds being removed ; put the sugar 
and lemons into the preserving-kettle, with just enough water 
to moisten the sugar, and slowly heat it until it dissolves ; 
boil it and skim it until it is clear ; then put in the toma- 
toes, and boil them gently for three-quarters of an hour. 
Cool the tomatoes, and then put them up as directed in 
other preserve recipes. 



DESSERT. 559 



TOMATO- JELLY. 

Stew a quart of tomatoes, with a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper, to a soft pulp ; strain this pulp through a 
very fine sieve or a jelly-bag ; to each pint of the strained 
tomato add half a cupful of white sugar, and a tablespoon- 
ful of corn-starch dissolved in half a cupful of cold water ; 
put these ingredients over the fire, and stir them until they 
have boiled for one minute ; then cool the jelly. Serve it 
with broiled, fried, baked, or roasted meats. 

TOMATO-JAM. 

Scald ripe sound tomatoes, peel them, put them over the 
fire in a preserving-kettle, and cook them gently until they 
are tender enough to be rubbed through a sieve with a 
potato-masher ; weigh the pulp, put it again into the kettle 
with an equal weight of sugar ; to each pound add the 
grated rind and juice of two lemons, and boil the jam until 
it looks clear, and is thick when a little is cooled on a 
saucer. Then cool it a little, and put it up in air-tight glass 
jars, or in glasses with paper pasted over the tops. 

TOMATO-FIGS. 

Use the small yellow tomatoes ; scald the tomatoes, re- 
move the skins without breaking the fruit, and weigh it ; 
allow half as much sugar as there is fruit ; pack the toma- 
toes and sugar in layers in earthen jars, and let them stand 
for twenty-four hours. Then drain the juice from the fruit, 
add to it a pound of sugar for each pint of juice, put them 
together in a preserving-kettle over the fire, and boil them ; 
when the sirup thus made is boiling, put in the tomatoes, 
and continue the boiling until they look clear, removing all 
scum as it rises ; when the tomatoes look clear, pour them 
into earthen jars, arid let them stand for two days. Then 



560 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

again drain off the sirup, boil it up once, pour it again over 
the fruit, and let them stand two days longer. At the end 
of that time take the tomatoes from the sirup, lay them on 
sieves or dishes, and dry them for a week, putting them in 
the sun every day, and turning them over twice a day; if 
the weather should be damp, the tomato-figs should be dried 
in a warm room. When they are quite dry, pack them in 
wooden boxes, with dry sugar between the layers, and keep 
them in a dry place. 

PRESERVED CITRON MELON. 

After the melon is peeled, weigh it ; to each pound allow 
a pound of sugar, an ounce of green ginger-root, a lemon, 
and half a pint of water; scrape the ginger-root, and tie 
it in a clean cloth with the yellow rind of the lemon pared 
very thin ; squeeze the juice of the lemon, and strain it ; 
put the sugar and water over the fire, and let them heat to- 
gether, and begin to boil, removing all scum as it rises ; 
when the sirup is free from scum, put in the melon-rind, 
ginger, and lemon peel and juice, and boil all together until 
the melon looks clear, removing any scum which may rise. 
Then let the preserve cool in the kettle, and put it into 
glass jars after it is cool,, leaving the ginger and lemon with 
it, if their flavor is desired, distributing them among the 
jars of citron. 

WATERMELON PRESERVE. 

The rind of watermelons may be preserved in the same 
way, after making it green, if the deep color is desired, 
according to the directions given in the recipe for spiced 
watermelon pickle, or for brandied green gages. 

PRESERVED PUMPKIN. 
Pare a sound pumpkin, first cutting it in pieces about an 
inch wide and two inches long; scrape out the seeds, and 



DESSERT. 561 

then boil the pumpkin until it is tender enough to pierce 
easily with a straw ; then drain the pumpkin, and weigh it ; 
allow a pound of sugar to a pound of pumpkin, and a lemon 
to each four pounds ; slice the lemon, put it with the sugar, 
add a gill of water to each pound of sugar, and let it boil 
until a clear sirup is formed, removing all scum as it rises ; 
then put in the pumpkin, and boil it gently until it is clear ; 
cool the preserve, and then put it up as directed for other 
preserves. 

PRESERVED GRAPE-FRUIT. 

Peel off the rind of several large grape-fruit, putting them 
into plenty of salted cold water as fast as they are peeled ; 
when all are ready, put them into the preserving-kettle, 
cover them with warm water, and let them boil slowly ; 
change the water every ten minutes, always replacing that 
poured away with more warm water, and boil the grape-fruit 
until they can easily be pierced with a broom-straw ; then 
put them on a sieve to drain. In the preserving-kettle, put 
one and a half pounds of loaf-sugar and half a cupful of 
cold water for each pound of fruit, and boil and skim this 
sirup ; while it is being boiled, cut into the stem-ends of the 
grape-fruit with a sharp small knife, and remove the stringy 
pith in the middle of the fruit ; when the sirup has been 
skimmed clear, put the grape-fruit into it, and boil it until it 
is transparent. Put the grape-fruit into wide-mouthed jars, 
and continue to boil the sirup ; when a little of the sirup 
cooled on a saucer jellies slightly, pour it over the grape- 
fruit, and let the fruit cool in the sirup. When both /ruit 
and sirup are cold, lay a piece of paper wet in brandy in 
each jar, and seal them air-tight. 

TUTTI FRUTTI PRESERVE. 

A good preserve can easily be made from fresh fruit as it 
ripens by following these directions : Put into a two-gallon 



562 PKAC7VCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

wide-mouthed earthen or glass jar a quart of the best white 
French brandy ; use any fruit, beginning with strawberries, 
and every day thoroughly stir the preserve with a wooden 
spoon ; for every pound of fruit, add three-quarters of a 
pound of granulated sugar; put the fruit into the jar fresh ; 
the berries are put in whole ; cherries, apricots, peaches, and 
plums are stoned, the three last also being peeled and quar- 
tered ; grapes are seeded, the skins being removed at pleas- 
ure. After the last fruit is added, leave the preserve for a 
week before using it ; keep the jar covered all the time, 
except when adding the fruit and stirring it. 

BAKED APPLES. 

Choose firm tart apples ; peel them, cut them in eighths, 
core them, and put them into a two-quart earthen dish ; to 
this quantity add one cupful each of light-brown sugar and 
water ; cover the dish, place it in a moderate oven, and bake 
the apples for three hours, or until they are red ; serve them 
hot in the same dish, with cream, after dinner ; or remove 
them to a glass or china dish, let them cool, and then dust 
them with powdered sugar, and serve them for supper, either 
with or without cream. Fresh cream sweetened, and 
whipped to a froth, and then placed on the baked apples, 
makes a very nice dessert. 

STEWED GOOSEBERRIES. 

Pick over a quart of green gooseberries, remove the tops 
and, stems, then throw them into fast-boiling water, and let 
them remain two minutes ; then drain them, and let them 
stand for two minutes in sufficient cold water to entirely 
cover them, and then drain them again. When the goose- 
berries are first put over the fire, put a pound of sugar into 
a preserving-kettle with half a cupful of cold water, and let 
it boil ; remove all scum as it rises, and when the sirup is 



nF.ssF.i^T. 563 

clear, put in the gooseberries, and stew them until they are 
tender, but do not cook them until they break ; when they 
are tender, skim them out of the sirup, and put them in a 
glass or china dish. Boil the sirup until a little of it cooled 
on a saucer jellies slightly, then pour it over the gooseberries. 
Serve them cold. 

FRIED BANANAS. 

Strip the skin from four bananas, and cut them in half- 
inch slices. The yellowish kind, called plantains, not quite 
ripe, are the best for this dish. Have ready over the fire a 
frying-pan containing about half 'an inch of fat, smoking 
hot ; put the bananas into the hot fat, brown them quickly, 
dust them with salt and pepper, and serve them hot. If 
fried bananas are required for dessert, sugar should be sub- 
stituted for salt and pepper. 

FRIED PEACHES. 

Cut in halves a dozen firm, ripe freestone peaches ; have 
ready over the fire a dripping-pan containing smoking-hot 
fat half an inch deep ; lay the peaches in the pan, the cut 
side down, as fast as they are cut, and fry them light-brown ; 
as soon ^s the side next the pan is done, turn them over, 
without breaking them, and heat the other side. The mo- 
ment they are heated through, arrange them on a hot plat- 
ter, with the cut side up, put a little powdered sugar in 
each, and serve them hot for dessert. 

PEACHES STEWED IN WINE. 

Put into a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle one pint of 
sherry or madeira, one pint of cold water, and two pounds 
of cut loaf-sugar ; place the kettle over the fire, let the sirup 
boil slowly, and skim it until it is quite free from scum ; 
meantime peel firm freestone peaches, cut them in halves, 
and drop them into cold water to preserve their color ; when 



564 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKE RV. 

the sirup is clear, put in as many peaches as will boil with- 
out crowding; cook them gently until they begin to look 
clear ; then take them up with a skimmer, and put them 
into glass dishes or jars without breaking them ; continue to 
cook the peaches in this way until there is only about a pint 
and a half of the sirup ; boil this down to a pint, and pour 
it hot over the peaches. They may be used as soon as they 
a.-e cold, or put up in air-tight jars for future use. 

PINEAPPLES 

This delicious fruit is of late years so abundant and cheap 
that it well deserves the attention of good housekeepers. It 
is an excellent dessert fruit, and, if quite ripe, is far less un- 
wholesome than is generally supposed. As served usually, 
it is peeled, sliced, and sugared before it is sent to the table ; 
but more of its flavor and juice are preserved if it is served 
with the skin on, in English fashion, or in West-Indian style, 
as directed below ; either way it can easily be handled, for 
a knife and fork are always required to cut it readily, a tea- 
spoon being quite inadequate for that purpose. Perfectly 
ripe pineapples do not really require sugar; but as many 
prefer to use it, it is well to place a dish of powdefed sugar 
on the table with the fruit. The beauty of the fruit is in its 
shape and color, and these are lost if it is entirely cut up 
before being served. In England, where pineapples are 
always the greatest luxuries, they are cut in horizontal slices 
with a very sharp, thin-bladed knife, the slices being kept 
together, and the crown being left on the fruit, which is 
placed in the centre of a dish of assorted fruit as the chief 
ornament of the dessert. The pineapple can also be cut 
from the crown to the base in wedge-shaped slices, the 
middle being left just entire enough to hold the slices in 
place until they are needed for serving ; they can then be 
readily dislodged with a thin, sharp knife, and served with 
a silver knife and fork. 



D ESSE AT. 565' 

ICED PINEAPPLE. 

Take a ripe pineapple by the crown, holding it in the left 
hand over a large dish ; with a very sharp, thin knife remove 
the skin and eyes ; then grate it off the core into the same 
dish, using a large tin grater, which should be very clean 
and bright ; while grating the fruit, hold it by the crown in 
the right hand, and steady the grater firmly in the left ; after 
the pineapple is grated, put it into a glass dish, dust a little 
powdered sugar over it, pour upon it a glass of sherry, and 
put it for an hour in the ice-box ; then serve it very cold. 
In Europe, porcelain and marbleized fruit-graters are made 
at china manufactories. 

BANANAS AND ORANGES. 

Peel three bananas, — the red sort is the best for this dish, 
— slice them crosswise, and lay them on a dish ; just before 
serving them, squeeze the juice of an orange over them, dust 
them thickly with powdered sugar, and serve them at once. 
The bananas should be very cold before they are peeled. 

A variation of this dish is made by cutting the pulp of 
three or four oranges with the bananas, instead of using the 
juice. Whipped cream, and cream and sugar, are some- 
times served with them. 

AMBROSIA. 

Pare and grate a pineapple as directed in the recipe for 
iced pineapple ; peel half a dozen large Florida oranges, 
and tear their pulp away from the inner membranes, reject- 
ing the seeds, and preserving all the juice ; remove the shell 
and brown skin from a cocoanut, and grate it, saving the 
milk ; put the pineapple, orange, and cocoanut in layers 
in a glass dish, slightly sprinkling each layer with powdered 
sugar ; mix with the milk of the cocoanut any of the pine- 
apple and orange juice which may remain in the dishes in 



566 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

which they have been pressed, add to them a glass of Ja- 
maica rum, and as much sugar as will sweeten them moder- 
ately ; keep the sirup thus made, and the ambrosia, in a very 
cold place until it is wanted for the table ; then pour the 
sirup over the ambrosia, and serve it at once. 
Ambrosia is best when freshly prepared. 

ICEB RASPBERRIES FOR DESSERT. 

Choose large, sound raspberries, remove the hulls, and 
examine the berries carefully to make sure they contain no 
insects ; beat together the white of an egg and two table- 
spoonfuls of cold water ; dip the berries singly in the beaten 
egg and water, roll them at once in powdered sugar, and lay 
them apart from each other on sheets of white letter-paper 
until they are quite dry ; they may dry slowly, so that it is 
best to allow five or six hours ; when they are dry, keep 
them in a cool, dry place until dinner-time, and then serve 
them for dessert. 

ICED STRAWBERRIES. 

After the berries are hulled, put them into a deep glass or 
china dish in layers with powdered sugar; then pour over 
them, for each quart, a wineglassful of any fruit-juice or 
fruit-wine, and place the dish in a refrigerator for at least 
an hour before serving. Just before serving the berries, 
sprinkle them with finely pounded ice and then with pow- 
dered sugar. 

STRAWBERRIES WITH WHIPPED CREAM. ■ 

After hulling the berries, put them into a glass or china 
dish in layers with powdered sugar, and place the dish in a 
cold place. Mix together one pint of cream, the whites of 
three eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and 



DESSERT. 567 

whip the mixture for one minute ; then let it rest for a 
minute, skim off the froth, and put it into a colander set in 
a bowl ; again whip and skim the cream ; and so proceed 
until all the cream is whipped, occasionally turning back 
into the whipping-bowl the cream which drains from the 
colander. Keep the whipped cream very cold, and just 
before serving the strawberries lay it over them in a light 
mass. 

PEACHES WITH ORANGES. 

A variety of canned peaches, which are exceedingly nice, 
are put up with what is called heavy sirup ; they are cut in 
thin slices, and the sirup has much sugar in it ; to prepare 
this dish, first drain the sliced peaches, saving all the sirup 
in which they are preserved ; dissolve in this sirup as much 
sugar as it will contain ; then peel for each small can of 
peaches half a dozen ripe oranges ; slice them thin, remov- 
ing all the seeds ; put the sliced oranges and peaches in 
layers on a dish, with a plentiful sprinkling of powdered 
sugar ; pour the sirup over them, and then serve them. 



GRAPE-FRUIT FOR BREAKFAST. 

The Florida -grape-truit makes a most refreshing dish for 
breakfast. It is a clear-skinned, lemon-colored fruit, three 
or four times as large as an orange, otherwise closely resem- 
bling that fruit. Its flavor is sub-acid, but its juicy pulp is 
enclosed in a tough white inner membrane of intensely bit- 
ter taste ; when this membrane is carefully removed, the fruit 
is a delicious tonic. To prepare grape-fruit for the table, 
cut the skin in strips, and peel it off; separate the sections 
of the fruit like an orange, and, holding each section by the 
ends, break it open, disclosing the pulp ; tear the pulp in 
rather small pieces out of its bitter white envelope, carefully 



568 FKACTJCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

removing every trace of the latter ; put the pulp into a 
deep dish, with a plentiful sprinkling of fine white sugar, 
and let it stand over night in a cool place. Use it at the 
beginning of breakfast ; it is exceedingly refreshing and 
wholesome. 



CHAPTER XI. 

BEVERAGES, AND SUGGESTIONS FOR THE DIET 
OF INVALIDS AND CHILDREN. 

THE number of beverages is proportionate to the pro- 
verbial thirst of mankind ; but, in the Hmited space 
available, few can be mentioned. After the usual domestic 
drinks of tea, coffee, and chocolate or cocoa, some good 
temperance beverages are given, together with fruit sirups 
and cordials, upon which they may be based. Then follow 
a few of the drinks usually ordered by physicians in illness 
and convalescence ; and some of the cups and punches gen- 
erally used for garden-parties. 

The diet for invalids and children can only be outlined 
here, for lack of space, and because it is treated exhaustively 
in a larger work by the author in the Harpers' press. 

Dishes for invalids should combine nutriment with diges- 
tibility, and be attractive and appetizing; above all, their 
ingredients should be perfectly fresh ; and not many mgre- 
dients should enter into one dish. Among. the dishes suit- 
able for invalids included in this book are : clear soup, bouil- 
lon, chicken and rice soup, cream oyster and clam soups, 
roast and broiled oysters, boiled and broiled salmon, Girard 
trout, fresh mackerel broiled, poached and shirred eggs and 
omelets, sweetbreads broiled and baked, tripe broiled and 
stewed, broiled chops and steaks, broiled chicken and game 
birds, calf's-foot and wine jellies, and some of the delicate 
puddings. Fruit must be subject to the doctor's selection ; 

369 



570 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

as also must be special diets of milk, beef, etc., because all 
changes in diet are to be carefully made. Some few good 
dishes are added to those already mentioned. 

FILTERING WATER OR SIRUP. 

When drinking-water is muddy, it can be cleared by filter- 
ing it as shown in the accompanying pictures : the first one 
represents the folding of a round piece of filtering-paper, 
such as can be procured at the druggist's ; the folded paper 
is laid inside a funnel set in the neck of a decanter, and the 
water is allowed to run through the paper slowly. If smooth 
decanters or carafes are used, the water can be frozen in 
them after it is filtered, by following the directions given in the 
recipe for frozen carafes. For filtering sirup, a clean piece 
of thin chamois is excellent ; the chamois should be washed 
in borax-water every time it is used, and very carefully 
rinsed in clear water ; if borax is not at hand, a small piece 
of washing-soda may be dissolved in the water in which the 
chamois is washed, and it can then be thoroughly rinsed. 

COFFEE. 

The making of good coffee depends upon two operations ; 
the straining to make it clear, and the infusion to extract its 
flavor and aroma. It is possible to make clear coffee without 
either straining or so-called settling; this point has been 
fully discussed -in other works by this author, so that it need 
not be repeated here. Coffee may be strained by using 
coffee-pots containing percolators or wire-gauze strainers, 
or by enclosing the coffee in cotton bags of different shapes ; 
actually boiling water is then to be poured upon it ; but it 
must not be boiled unless it is wanted black and bitter, be- 
cause boiling extracts its tannic acid. These points have 
been treated exhaustively in the books already published by 
the author. Two ounces of finely ground coffee to a quart 



BEVERAGES. 



571 




Folded Filtering Paper. 




Filtering Drinhing-Water. 



572 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

of boiling water will make a medium strong beverage. Use 
boiling milk with it. 

FRENCH COFFEE. 

French coffee is made by mixing half an ounce of ground 
chicory with a quarter of a pound of coffee ; put the coffee 
into the pot, and stir it over the fire until it is hot ; then 
crush one egg with the shell, and add it to the coffee, to- 
gether with two quarts of cold water ; stir the coffee occasion- 
ally until it is scalding hot, but not boiling, and then put the 
pot at the side of the fire, where it cannot boil, for five min- 
utes or longer. Use boiling milk with it. 

CAF:i! NOIR. 

For cafe noir, or black coffee, use a cupful of coffee to a 
quart of boiling water ; and if the coffee is wanted very black 
and bitter, boil it for a few minutes. Do not use milk with 
it. 

GLORIA. 

The form of black coffee called gloria by the French is 
rather an accident than a deliberately composed beverage. 
In all French households, it is the custom to serve cognac 
among the liqueurs after dinner, with the black coffee ; and 
so far does the custom now prevail in this country, that in 
many of the hotels and restaurants a demi-tasse, or small 
glass of brandy, accompanies the small cup of black coffee 
served after dinner, unless cafe a la crime has been specified. 
After the black coffee is very much sweetened, a teaspoonful 
of brandy is poured upon the surface, and Hghted ; when the 
brandy is nearly burned away, the flame is blown out, and 
the coffee drank. The effect of this beverage was so satis- 
factory to its originators, that they marked their estimation 
of it by calling it gloria. 



BEVERAGES. 573 



TEA. 

Tea should be an infusion made with boiHng water, and 
drank when freshly made ; boiling tea extracts its tannic 
acid, and dissipates its aroma and flavor ; of good tea, two 
teaspoonfuls to a pint of boiling water will make a moder- 
ately strong beverage ; scald the teapot with boiling water, 
pour out the water, put in the tea, pour on a pint of boiling 
water, let the tea stand two or three minutes where it will 
keep hot without boiling, and then use it. If it becomes too . 
strong by standing, pour more boiling water on it. 

Like coffee, chocolate, and cocoa, tea has been fully 
treated in the author's works already published. 

CHOCOLATE. ' 

Chocolate is sold in the form of sweet and black chocolate ; 
a small cake, weighing about an ounce, is allowed for a cup, 
or half a pint, of thick chocolate ; shave or grate the choco- 
late, melt it over the fire with half a cupful of water, stirring 
it constantly ; then add half a pint of milk, and continue to 
stir the chocolate until it boils, when it will be ready to use. 
More water may be added if the chocolate is too thick. 

COCOA. 

Cocoa is made both from the beans and the shells of 
cocoa. It requires boiling, — the shells long boiling, — to 
completely extract its flavor and nutriment. Special direc- 
tions usually accompany packages of cocoa. When they do 
not, use about two ounces of the bean or cocoa nibs, or more 
of the shells, to a quart of water ; boil the cocoa at least a 
half-hour, and serve boihng milk with it. 



574 FRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



HOT COFFEE AND SODA. 

For temperance advocates, hot black coffee mixed with 
soda-water is a good substitute for the spirituous winter 
drinks. Make black coffee as follows : — 

A quarter of a pound of good coffee and a quarter of an 
ounce of ground chiccory infused in a quart of boiling water, 
but not boiled, will make medium strong coffee. Boiling 
coffee makes it very black and bitter. Use hot black coffee 
and soda-water in equal proportions, with a palatable addi- 
tion of cream sirup, or condensed milk and sugar. 

PINEAPPLE LEMONADE. 

Carefully boil a pound of sugar in a pint of water until it 
forms a thin sirup, removing all scum as it rises ; meantime 
squeeze the juice from three large lemons, and remove their 
seeds from it ; pare a ripe pineapple, take out the eyes, and 
grate it into a large bowl ; add the lemon-juice to it, and the 
sirup as soon as it is clear, and let the mixture cool and 
stand for a couple of hours ; then add to it a quart of ice- 
water, strain it, and use it. 

CURRANT- WA TER. 

Pick over a pint of raspberries, and strip a quart of cur- 
rants from the stems ; bruise the fruit in a preserving-kettle 
with a wooden spoon, pour over it two quarts of cold water, 
add half a pound of sugar, and set the kettle over a moder- 
ate fire where its contents will heat gradually ; after the cur- 
rant-water begins to boil, remove the kettle from the fire, 
pour its entire contents into a flannel jelly-bag, and let the 
currant-water drain through the bag. When it is quite 
clear, cool it and ice it ; add sugar to taste, and use it cold 
as a summer or temperance drink. 



BEVERAGES. 575 

CHERRY WATER. 

Keep the sirup in which cherries were boiled, in tightly 
corked bottles ; and when a cool, refreshing beverage is 
wanted, mix a wineglassful of the sirup with a glass of cold 
water, sweetening it to taste. 

CHERRY SIRUP. 

Crush ripe cherries in a mortar, breaking the stones, and 
then squeeze them in a cloth to extract all their juice ; with 
each quart of juice mix a pound of sugar, and boil them to- 
gether for ten minutes, removing all scum as it rises ; then 
cool and bottle the sirup. Use it for flavoring pudding- 
sauces, and in summer mix it with iced water as a cooling 
and refreshing drink. 

BLACKBERRY SIRUP. 

Pick over ripe blackberries, crush them, and squeeze their 
juice through a clean cloth ; make a sirup by boiling a pound 
of sugar with a pint of water for ten minutes ; add a pint 
of sirup to each pint of juice ; boil the sirup and blackberry- 
juice together for fifteen minutes, after stirring them well 
together ; then to each quart of the blackberry sirup thus 
made, add a wineglassful of brandy ; when the sirup is quite 
cold, bottle and seal it air-tight. 

FLORIDA ORANGE WINE. 

The process for making wine from oranges is not difficult, 
and can be followed on a small scale, if one desires to try 
the experiment at home, when oranges are cheap. Wipe 
the oranges with a wet cloth, peel off the yellow rind very 
thin, squeeze the oranges, and strain the juice through a 
hair sieve ; measure the juice after it is strained, and for 
each gallon allow three pounds of granulated sugar, the 



5/6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

white and shell of one egg, and one-third of a gallon of cold 
water ; put the sugar, white and shell of the egg crushed 
small, and the water, over the fire, and stir them every two 
miriutes until the egg begins to harden ; then boil the sirup 
until it looks clear under the froth of egg which will form 
on the surface ; strain the sirup, pour it upon the orange- 
rind, and let it stand over night ; then next add the orange- 
juice, and again let it stand over night ; strain it the second 
day, and put it into a tight cask with a small cake of com- 
pressed yeast to about ten gallons of wine, and leave the 
bung out of the cask until the wine ceases to ferment ; the 
hissing noise continues as long as fermentation is in progress ; 
when fermentation ceases, close the cask by driving in the 
bung, and let the wine stand about nine months before bot- 
tling it ; three months after it is bottled, it can be used. A 
glass of brandy added to each gallon of wine after fermenta- 
tion ceases is generally considered an improvement. 

NEW-ENGLAND BOILED CIDER. 

Use new, sweet cider ; boil it steadily until it is reduced 
one-fourth in quantity, removing all scum as it rises ; cool it, 
and bottle it, sealing down the corks ; a mould may form on 
the top of the cider if it is kept a long time, but it will not 
impair its quality. If possible, use cider not more than a 
day or two old for boiling. 

DIXIE PINEAPPLE CIDER. 

Chop the rind of a large pineapple fine, and put it into 
a pitcher with two quarts of cold water ; tie a thin cloth over 
the pitcher, and let it stand until its contents ferment, which 
will be in two or three days in warm weather ; then strain 
off the water, sweeten it to taste, bottle it, wiring the corks, 
and lay the bottles on their sides for forty-eight hours ; the 
cider will then be ready to use. 



BEVERAGES. ^"JJ 

WEST-INDIAN PINEAPPLE SHRUB. 

Remove the crown from a large, ripe pineapple, pare it, 
remove the eyes, and chop it very fine ; put it, with all its 
juice, into a narrow-necked earthen bottle or jug ; add to it 
one pound of sugar and four quarts of cold water, and shake 
the jug for five minutes. Let the jug stand in a temperature 
of about 90° F. for two or three days, or until the shrub 
begins to ferment ; after the shrub begins to ferment, cool 
it on the ice, and then use it. It is sometimes mixed at 
this stage with a freshly pared and grated pineapple and 
half a pound more of sugar, and frozen in an ice-cream 
freezer. So prepared, it is served like Roman punch, 

PINEAPPLE RUM SHRUB. 

Chop fine a large, ripe pineapple without paring it, put it 
in a glass jar, cover it with the best Jamaica rum, close it, 
and let it stand for three days. The third day, make a sirup 
by boiling together a pound and a half of sugar and a pint 
of water, and skimming it until it is clear, then strain and 
cool it. Squeeze half a pint of juice from limes or lemons, 
and strain it. Strain the rum from the pineapple, pressing 
the fruit to extract all its juice. Mix the cold sirup, fruit- 
juice, and pineapple-rum, with a quart more of the best 
Jamaica rum, and bottle it for use. A wineglassful, or less, 
in a glass of ice-water, makes a good summer drink. 

CURRANT SHRUB. 

Strip two quarts of ripe currants from the stems, put them 
into a glass jar, set it in a pan of cold water, and place the 
pan on the stove where the water will heat gradually ; let it 
stand there for an hour or more, until the currants yield 
their juice freely ; then strain the juice, and measure it ; to 
each pint add six ounces of sugar, stirring the sugar into the 



5/8 /'A'ACT/CAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

warm juice until it is dissolved ; then let it cool. When the 
sirup so made is quite cold, add to each pint of it a quart 
of Jamaica rum, and strain and bottle it. 

PINEAPPLE BRANDY. 

Pare a large, ripe pineapple, saving the rind to make pine- 
apple, cider, and slice it about a quarter of an inch thick; 
then weigh it, and use an equal weight of powdered sugar ; 
put the fruit and sugar in layers in a large glass jar, with 
sugar at the bottom and top ; pour into the jar enough of 
the best brandy to stand an inch above the pineapple ; 
then close the jar perfectly air-tight, and keep it in a cool, 
dry, dark closet for a month or longer. 

Use the fruit for the table ; and the brandy, mixed with 
soda-water or seltzer, for a drink in hot weather. 

CHERRY BRANDY. 

Use perfectly sound, ripe Morella cherries ; wipe each 
one with a clean cloth, cut off the stems within an inch of 
the fruit, and prick each cherry several times with a needle. 
Blanch some shelled bitter almonds by pouring boiling water 
on them, and then rubbing off the skins with a clean cloth ; 
crush some rock-candy fine ; put the cherries into quart jars 
of glass, half-filling the jars, and adding to each six almonds 
and three ounces of candy ; fill the jars with the best brandy, 
cork, and seal them air-tight, and keep them at least a 
month. Use the fruit for dessert, and the brandy as desired. 

RASPBERRY BRANDY. 

Carefully hull and pick over a quart of fine raspberries, 
bruise them, put them in a jar or wide bottle, and pour over 
them two quarts of good brandy ; close the jar air-tight, and 
let the berries remain in the brandy for two weeks. Then 
put half a pound of sugar over the fire with half a cupful of 



BEVERAGES. 579 

cold water, and boil it until it becomes a sirup of medium 
consistency, removing all scum as it rises. Mix this sirup 
with the fruit and brandy, pour the mixture into a jelly-bag, 
and let it run through slowly ; then bottle it, and cork the 
bottles, and keep them in a cool, dark closet for two weeks 
longer. At the end of two weeks, filter it again, carefully 
pouring it from the bottles to avoid disturbing the sediment, 
and when the liquor is quite clear and bright, bottle it for 
use, 

RASPBERRY LIQUEUR. 

Prepare berries according to the directions given in the 
recipe for raspberry brandy, substituting any pure spirit pre- 
ferred for the brandy ; bottle for use in the same way, 

BLACKBERRY BRANDY. 

Brifise five pounds of blackberries ; add to them one 
gallon of proof spirits, one-eighth of an ounce each of 
crushed cloves, mace, and cinnamon, and a dozen crushed 
cardamom-seeds ; let all these ingredients stand, closed from 
the air, for two weeks. Then make a sirup of two pounds 
of sugar and one pint of water by boiling them together 
until a little cooled on a saucer is about as thick as maple- 
sirup, and strain and cool it ; strain the spirit away from the 
crushed fruit and spice, and mix it with the sirup ; let 
the mixture stand, closed from the air, for two weeks, and 
then filter it, and put it up in air-tight bottles. 

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL. 

Allow a pound of granulated or loaf sugar for each quart 
of blackberry-juice, obtained by mashing the berries, and 
then squeezing them in a cloth ; add to these quantities of 
berry-juice and sugar, a quarter of an ounce each of whole 
cinnamon, allspice, cloves, and pounded but not powdered 
nutmeg. Boil all these ingredients together over a gentle 



580 PRACTICAL AM ERICA X COOKERY. 

fire for two hours ; then strain the cordial thus produced 
through a bolting-cloth sieve, or through a fine cloth, add 
to- it half a pint of the best brandy, and bottle and cork it. 
This cordial is very useful in cases of diarrhoea or dysentery ; 
it also makes a very wholesome summer drink, a tablespoon- 
ful being used in a glass of cool water. 

PEACH BRANDY. 

To make peach-brandy, crush ten pounds of good peaches 
without peeling them, breaking the stones ; put the peaches 
into a tub or barrel, pour over them two gallons and a half 
of ninety- five per cent alcohol, and two gallons of water; 
cover the tub, and let the peaches stand in the liquor for 
twenty-four hours. Then strain off the liquor, pressing the 
peaches to extract all of it, and filter it, to clear it, through 
flannel or filtering-paper. Next add two and a half pints of 
white sirup, and then bottle the brandy. If the color is 
wanted dark, use a very little caramel. The sirup is simply 
water containing as much white sugar as will dissolve in it : 
the sirup may be clarified unless the sugar is very pure. 

PEACH AND HONEY. 

A good winter drink is made by mixing together one 
tablespoonful of honey, and a wineglassful of peach-brandy. 

CIDER CUP. 

Mix together in a large glass jug, or a claret-cup, the fol- 
lowing ingredients : one quart of cider, two wineglasses of 
sherry and one of brandy, the thinly cut yellow rind of two 
lemons, one orange sliced, and, in season, six thin slices 
of cucumber. Fill the cup with finely pounded or shaved 
ice, sweeten it palatably, and serve it before the ice entirely 
melts ; a glass of cura9oa and a little grated nutmeg may be 
added if desired. 



BEVERAGES. 58 1 



CLARET-CUP. 
Mix together in a claret-cup one bottle of claret, one 
wineglassful of brandy, the yellow rind of a lemon cut very 
thin, a sprig of mint, and three slices of cucumber if it is 
in season, sugar enough to make the cup palatable, plenty 
of fine ice, and, last of all, two bottles of seltzer-water or 
plain soda. Serve the claret-cup as soon as it is made. 

CHAMPAGNE-CUP. 

Mix very quickly in a claret-cup, and serve at once, two 
bottles each of champagne and seltzer or plain soda-water, 
and half a pint of any good water-ice. 

ROMAN PUNCH. 

Mix in a large tumbler one tablespoonful each of sugar 
and raspberry-sirup, the juice of half a lemon, one teaspoonful 
of curagoa, a wineglassful of Jamaica rum, and half a wine- 
glassful of brandy. Fill the glass with shaved ice ; put a tea- 
spoonful of port-wine on the top, and whatever berries or 
fruit are in season, and drink the punch through a straw. 

PUNCH A LA ROMAINE. 

This beverage requires to be partly frozen in an ice-pail 
or an ice-cream freezer. Mix two pounds of powdered sugar 
in the juice of a dozen lemons ; add the thin yellow rind 
and juice of two oranges, and stir until the sugar is dissolved ; 
then strain the sirup thus made, and mix with it the whites 
of a dozen eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; freeze this mixture 
, nearly solid ; then quickly stir into it one bottle each of 
champagne and Jamaica rum, and serve the punch at once 
in small goblets or champagne-glasses. The freezing-mixture 
is composed of equal parts of salt and pounded ice packed 
around the vessel containing the Roman punch. 



582 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

CAPILLAIRE FOR EAU SUCrA 

Put a pound of sugar over the fire, in a thick saucepan, 
with a pint of cold water and the white and shell of one egg ; 
stir them together until the sugar is melted, and the egg 
begins to harden ; then let the sirup boil for five minutes ; 
strain it and cool it ; to each pint add a wineglassful of 
cura^oa, and bottle the capillaire. A teaspoonful or more 
in a glass of cool water makes good eaii sucre, refreshing in 
illness where the use of sugar is permitted. 

VIRGINIA VERDER, OR BOTTLED MILK-PUNCH. 

Cut the yellow rind very thinly from six oranges and six 
lemons, and steep the rind for twenty-four hours in a bottle 
of brandy; squeeze the juice of the fruit, free from seeds, 
upon two pounds of white sugar ; add to it four quarts of 
water and one of milk made boiling hot ; then stir in the 
brandy, and repeatedly strain the mixture through a jelly- 
bag until it is quite free from sediment. As soon as it is 
clear, bottle it, and cork it air-tight. Keep it in a cool 
place, and use it as it is required. 

MILK-PUNCH. 

Mix the following ingredients in a large tumbler : one 
tablespoonful of powdered sugar and two of cold water, one 
wineglassful of the best brandy and half that quantity of 
Santa-Cruz rum ; after these are well mixed, put in enough 
shaved ice to half fill the tumbler, and then fill it with cold 
milk, and grate a little nutmeg on the surface. 

Hot milk-punch is made in the same way, omitting the 
ice, and using hot milk. 

WHITE TIGER'S-MILK. 

For one quart of this beverage, mix together half a gill 
each of peach-brandy and apple-jack, two drops each of oil 



BEVERAGES. 583 

of cloves, cinnamon, and orange, one quart of milk, and a 
palatable sweetening of powdered sugar ; grate a little nut- 
meg over the surface, beat the white of an egg to a stiff 
froth, whip it into the tiger's-milk, and serve it at once. 

HOT APPLE-TODDY. 

This favorite winter drink is made as follows : Take the 
pulp from a hot baked apple of medium size, using a tea- 
spoon to free it from skin and core ; put it into a tumbler 
with an equal measure of apple-jack, a pleasant addition of 
sugar and grated nutmeg, and a little boiling water. A usual 
proportion for a single toddy is one finger of baked apple, 
two each of apple-jack and boiling water, a tablespoonful 
of sugar, and a grate of nutmeg on the top. 

EGG-NOG. 

Beat the yolk of an egg and a tablespoonful each of sugar 
and water until the sugar is dissolved ; then stir in one wine- 
glass of brandy, half a wineglass of Santa-Cruz rum, and 
one-third of a tumblerful of milk ; last of all beat the white 
of the egg to a stiff froth, put it on the egg-nog, and serve 
it at once. In summer two tablespoonfuls of shaved ice 
may be added to the egg-nog. 

EGG AND SHERRY. 

Pour a teaspoonful of isherry into a wineglass, put the un- 
broken yolk of a fresh egg upon the wine, and swallow them 
together, without breaking the egg in the mouth. 

HALF-AND-HALF. 

Half-and-half is a mixture of equal parts of freshly drawn 
ale and porter weJl mixed together, and drank at once. 



584 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

EGG-FLIP. 

Heat a quart of freshly drawn ale ; meantime beat the 
yolks of four eggs to a cream with four tablespoonfuls of 
brown sugar, and the whites to a stiff froth ; when the ale 
is scalding hot, pour it upon the yolks, stirring constantly ; 
then quickly whip in the whites until the flip is smooth, and 
serve it. If the ale is too hot, it will curdle or cook the 
eggs. . 

PORTER SANGAREE. 

Dissolve a heaping tcaspoonful of sugar in a tablespoonful 
of water in a tumbler, fill the tumbler with freshly opened 
porter, grate a little nutmeg on it, and drink it. 

PORT- WINE SANGAREE. 

Put a teaspoonful of sugar in a tumbler with a wineglass 
and a half of port-wine, fill the tumbler with shaved ice, and 
serve the sangaree ; grate a little nutmeg over the top. 

MULLED WINE. 

Put a pint of wine over the fire to heat with a pint of 
water ; meantime, beat three eggs with three tablespoonfuls 
of sugar ; when the wine is hot, but not boiling, pour it into 
the eggs, beating the mixture constantly ; if the wine is too 
hot, it will curdle or cook the eggs ; sweeten the mulled 
wine to taste, grate a little nutmeg on it, add a little allspice, 
and serve it hot. 

MINT JULEP. 

Use for an ordinary tumbler half a dozen sprigs of fresh 
mint ; bruise the tops a little in the glass with one table- 
spoonful of sugar and two of water, using a teaspoon ; then 
pour in a wineglass and a half of brandy ; take out the mint, 
fill the glass with shaved ice, and put the mint in again with 
the stems down. On the top of the julep arrange fresh ber- 



BEVERAGES. 585 

ries, slices of orange or pineapple, and a couple of straws, 
and serve the julep at once. 

SHERRY COBBLER. 

Put in a large tumbler two glasses of sherry, a heaping 
tablespoonful of powdered sugar, three small slices of orange 
or pineapple, and half a dozen raspberries or strawberries ; 
fill the glass with cracked ice, put a couple of straws in the 
cobbler, and serve it at once. 

WHISKEY PUNCH. 

Dissolve a heaping tablespoonful of sugar in a wineglassful 
of hot or cold water (as the punch is to be hot or cold) 
add a small ring of lemon-rind cut very thin, and a little 
lemon-juice if it is liked ; then pour in a wineglassful of 
whiskey, and as much water, hot or cold, as is desired, and 
drink the punch. 

BEEF-TEA. 

The beef for beef- tea should be quite lean, and chopped 
fine ; for a pint of beef- tea use a pound of beef; pour over 
it a pint of cold water, and let it soak for an hour or longer ; 
then put the beef and water over the fire, and let them heat 
until the beef begins to look brown ; or let the beef-tea ac- 
tually boil, if it is preferred ; strain the beef- tea through a 
sieve only fine enough to retain the particles of beef, but 
not to make the beef-tea clear ; season it as the physician 
directs, and serve it. 

BEEF-JUICE ON TOAST. 

Boil a thick piece of beefsteak until it is medium rare ; 
then score it in all directions, and put it between two plates, 
or in a lemon-squeezer, to press out the juice. Either use 
the juice as a drink, or, as it is squeezed from the beef, let 
it fall upon a slice of delicately made toast; sprinkle a little 
salt over the toast, and serve it hot. 



586 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



CLEAR CLAM-BROTH. 

Wash the clams in the shells in cold water, put them over 
the fire in a thick saucepan, and heat them until the shells 
open ; carefully pour out the broth, strain it through a fine 
towel, season it as the physician permits, and serve it hot. 
Sometimes the soft portions of the clams may be eaten. Or 
the clams may be used for fritters or scalloped clams. 

STEAMED CLAMS. 

Wash and cook the clams as directed in the preceding 
recipe ; after the clam-shells open, take out the clams ; 
strain the broth, heat the clams in it quickly, and serve 
them on toast. 

DRY TOAST. 

Cut slices of stale bread half an inch thick ; trim off the 
crust, put the bread near the fire, and brown it delicately, 
taking care not to burn it. 

BROILED OYSTERS. 

Carefully remove all bits of shell from large oysters, lay 
them between the bars of a buttered oyster- gridiron, and 
hold them over a hot fire until their edges begin to curl ; 
then at once serve the oysters on toast,' with the seasoning 
allowed by the physician. 

BROILED SQUABS. 

Carefully pluck and singe two squabs ; split them down 
the back, cut off the heads and feet, wipe the birds with a 
wet towel, put them between the bars of a buttered gridiron, 
and quickly brown them on both sides ; season them lightly 
with salt and pepper, and serve a sliced orange with them. 



BEVERAGES. 58/ 



MILK PORRIDGE. 

Mix smoothly a level tablespoonful of flour with a cupful 
each of milk and water, a level teaspoonful of salt, and a 
little grated nutmeg ; stir these ingredients over the fire in a 
thick saucepan until they boil, and then serve the porridge. 

RICE-GRXJEL, 

Mix smoothly a level tablespoonful of rice-flour with a pint 
of water, and a level teaspoonful of salt ; put the gruel over 
the fire, and stir it occasionally until it has boiled for half 
an hour ; then serve the gruel. An inch of stick cinnamon 
may be boiled with it if the physician permits, or a glass of 
brandy added before it is served, if a stimulant is required. 

WATER- GRUEL. 

Water-gruel is made like milk-porridge by using the en- 
tire liquid quantity of water, omitting the milk. The gruel 
may be slightly sweetened if it is desired ; or a little grated 
nutmeg may be added to it. 

RICE AND BARLEY WATERS. 

These beverages are made by thoroughly washing half a 
cupful of either grain in plenty of cold water, then putting 
the grain over the fire in two quarts of fresh cold water, and 
boiling it down one-half; after the water is reduced one- 
half, strain it, cool it, sweeten and flavor it to taste, and 
use it. 

PANADA. 

Put a tablespoonful of bread-crumbs over the fire with the 
same quantity of sugar, a grate of nutmeg, and half a pint of 
cold water, and boil the panada for five minutes ; then add 
a glass of wine to it, and serve it at once. 



588 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



CAUDLE. 

To a cupful of cold-water gruel add a glass of wine, an 
egg beaten to a foam, and sugar and nutmeg to suit the 
patient's taste. 

HOME-MADE GRANULA. 

Granula as sold at the shops is rather expensive, and can 
be prepared at home with but little trouble ; it is excellent 
for gruels and porridges for invalids and children. To pre- 
pare the granula, use stale pieces of Graham or brown bread ; 
cut the stale bread in pieces of equal thickness, put them 
into the oven, and bake them until they are light brown ; 
then roll them with a rolling-pin until they break into small 
crumbs; sift the crumbs through a coarse sieve to insure 
uniformity, rolling and sifting again the crumbs too large to 
pass through the sieve the first time ; keep the granula in 
air-tight jars or boxes in a dry place, and use it as re- 
quired ; it ^vill keep as well as cracker-dust. Any of the 
recipes for preparing gruels and panadas will serve for the 
preparation of granula, or it may be used to thicken hot 
milk or soup for invalids or children. 

RENNET CURDS. 

Heat a quart of milk lukewarm, put it in an earthen 
bowl, stir with it a tablespoonful of liquid rennet, or of ren- 
net-wine, and let the curds set ; then pour the curds into a 
sieve set over a bowl, and let the whey drain off. Serve the 
curds with cream and powdered sugar. 

RENNET WHEY. 

Use the whey which drains from the curds, sweetened and 
flavored as the physician permits. 



BEVERAGES. 589 



BREAD JELLY. 

Boil a slice of stale bread to a pulp in enough boiling 
water to cover it ; rub it through a sieve, sweeten and flavor 
it to taste, and cool it in a cup or mould. Serve cream and 
powdered sugar with it. 

CRANBERRY AND SAGO JELLY. 

This jelly can be prepared in the winter season when fresh 
fruit is scarce and expensive, and will prove a very accept- 
able addition to the dietary of an invalid when the physician 
will permit its use. Pick over and wash one quart of fresh 
cranberries, put them in a thick saucepan with sufficient 
cold water to cover them, set them over the fire, and stew 
them until they are tender enough to yield all their juice, 
breaking them with a spoon as they cook ; when they are 
soft, squeeze them in a muslin jelly-bag or a clean towel ; 
measure the juice, and put it again over the fire ; to a quart 
of the strained juice add half a pound of sugar and two 
ounces of sago, and continue the boiling until the sago is 
transparent ; then pour the jelly into glasses or moulds wet 
with cold water, and let it cool before using it. 

DISHES FOR CHILDREN. 

The physical basis of diet for children is clearly defined 
in the author's " Dietary for Schools," which was written at 
the suggestion of the Hon. John Eaton, U.S. Commissioner 
of Education, and published as Circular No. 4, series of 
1879, of the Bureau of Education, Department of the In- 
terior. It is reprinted in the late editions of the author's 
"Cooking-school Text-book." The following points are 
extracted from the dietary : — 

Every care must be taken to supply children with a va- 



590 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 

riety and abundance of nutritious and digestible food, in 
which fruit, the cereals, vegetables, milk, mutton, beef, and 
poultry should be included ; together with simple sweets, 
and plain puddings chiefly composed of milk, eggs, and 
flour or bread. The character of the diet should be varied 
with the seasons ; cold weather permitting the use of plenty 
of substantial food, and summer making advisable an abun- 
dance of ripe and fresh fruit and vegetables. Tea, coffee, 
and stimulants should be avoided, and plenty of cool fresh 
water used as the habitual drink. The fact should be re- 
membered, that milk is not a beverage but a food, of which 
the greater part becomes solid after it is drank. With the 
exception of salt, the condiments should be used sparingly. 
The breakfast should be early and plentiful, and when any 
drink but water is desired, warm milk and water, or cocoa 
may be used. Midday dinners should be varied and always 
hot, — indeed, all food is most digestible when warm, — 
composed of some plain meat dish, at least two vegetables, 
and a simple pudding. Soup is invaluable for children, but 
it must be plain. The supper should be light and nutri- 
tious, given about two hours before retiring, and may in- 
clude warm bread-and-milk, any form of porridge and milk, 
custard, bread and butter, simple stewed fruits, and either 
cool water or cocoa as a beverage. 

If children are very active, and grow fast, their appetites 
will always be keen, and should be completely satisfied with 
abundance of well-chosen food. When children get hungry 
oftener than the recurrence of the regular family meals, they 
should be supplied with a light repast of digestible char- 
acter ; indeed, it is well to give them a regular luncheon of 
bread and butter, or bread and milk, in the mid-forenoon, 
and again about three or four o'clock if their supper does 
not come before six o'clock. If a child is hungry, it cannot 
be well or happy ; and the rapid growth of youth causes a 



BEVERAGES. 59 1 

constant demand to be made upon the vitality supplied 
to the system by food. 

When children show any marked preference for special 
foods, care should be taken to modify their tastes so that 
they may always eat a sufficient variety to obtain from food 
the elements requisite to a well-balanced physical develop- 
ment. Every abnormal appetite should be modified by ju- 
dicious control on the part of the parents or nurse, if the 
child is to receive the care its helpless condition imposes 
upon its natural protectors : they are as much responsible 
for its physical well-being as for its moral rectitude. 

These outlines will serve to guard those having the care 
of children, from making the mistakes which too often entail 
a life of weakness or suffering as the consequence equally of 
injudicious indulgence, and of neglect of the most ordinary 
rules of health. 



